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Great video looking forward to the grout video. It will come in handy as I’m working on a stone tile bathroom now. I have 60inch sliding shower door I will be installing. Do I need to put the 1 degree slope on the marble sill or does it need to be leveled?
Love your videos! I have an outdated shower with large format tile on the walls. What is the easiest way to demo these with minimal drywall damage (if possible)?
I'm a tile contractor, a few tips: - Make your walls plumb and square before or while you are installing your wall board. You can plane proud studs and shim where they are short, or you can wet shim the studs, sister new studs, whatever you want really, but it makes the job come out so much better, and saves a lot of time in the end. - set and grout your shower pan first, this does 2 things, it protects your waterproofing, and it makes a much better joint where the floor and wall meet. You can mask the completed pan off with anything once it's dry, I use 72" painters plastic and mask everything but 1/2" from the walls and curb. Then I put some foam pads I have over that, but cardboard works too. - measure your water, and for mixing partial batches of thinset either weigh it or mix 1/2 bag at a time. Guessing creates an inconsistent mix. - put your water in the bucket first so you get a good even mix without any dry spots sticking to the bucket. Since you measured your water, this is easy and logical to do first. It's too late now, but that shower valve should have been screwed to some blocking to keep it at the correct depth so the escutcheon can do its job, and to protect the plumbing. you might be able to fix it from the other side of the wall, but it would have been much easier before you closed up the walls.
You’re killing me! All that talk about not using metal tools on tile face and then you go scraping the fronts when installing the marble with the trowel! Nothing but love! I love your videos!
this video is for people who don`t have a clue about this type of job. I didn`t see too many comments from pro and every pro tell you as he make many things wrong...
Finally a video thats shows the real hardships of tiling i was starting to think i was the only one that made mistakes.. real life tile is hard and dirty
So important to show the flaws in a fun and humerus way! Gives us DIY’ers the extra knowledge to think ahead and gain confidence to always correct flaws before everything sets!
Jeff - Thank you for posting this series! There is very little online about renovating mobile/manufactured homes. Ours was built in the ‘70s to a price point and to meet that decade’s codes. The state codes here in California are much stricter now. They prohibit many things that local codes allow in conventional construction. A key factor is that they must remain moveable. A crew must be able to split a double-wide and move the units separately down the highway. When our roof was replaced last year, couldn’t even upgrade the original 3/8“ roof sheathing with 1/2”. It would be too heavy for the trusses. Strengthening the trusses would make them too heavy for the studs. Beefing up the studs would make them too heavy for the floor joists. Stronger floor joists and sub-flooring would be too heavy for the foundation and for the axles used on the road. Similar constraints exist for heavier drywall, replacing a fiberglass shower enclosure with ceramic tile, etc. I don’t know whether Florida has special state (or local) mobile home building codes, plan approvals, and inspections as does California. I hope that all goes well for your project!
I was taught to do the floor before setting the bottom row of wall tiles. Level line around shower, start one wall tile up, finish wall tiles above level line, lay floor then cut and lay last row of wall time. Wall tile overlaps floor tile that way. Which is the better way?
i was wondering that as well. I typically would do floor first and have the wall overlap that way theres no vertical joint at the base of the wall for water to run into in a worst case scenario.
I like setting the floor first then the walls, there's not a set in stone correct way. For me if I "think like water" it makes sense to have the walls overhanging the floor. It's the same thought process I use for doing roofing and siding. I also use epoxy grout. Belts and braces - every little bit I can do to prevent water flowing places other than the drain I will do it.
typically standard practice is to do the shower floor first, so that wall tile sits on the floor tile. That is also how ideal water flow is.... down the wall, onto the floor tile. The method in this video results in wall water going under the floor tile, which is not what you want. Even if you seal the corner with silicone, it is not ideal to seal two planes this way. Same idea why countertop backsplash sits on top of the countertop, not behind the countertop.
I love all of your videos, even if they have nothing to do with what I'm looking at doing, it's just so enjoyable watching your videos and genuinely relaxing, you're like the Bob Ross of building, just a pleasure to watch... Keep on doing what you're doing it definitely means a lot...
My pleasure, keep doing what your doing, your helping more people out than you probably realize just being you, the way that you show and explain things, gives people the confidence to try things out, I'm so grateful for what you do and always look forward to anything you post.@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
@@qhpainters I'm referring to the calming feeling that comes over you when you watch his videos, it always promotes positiveness and shows that anyone can have a go at something...
Hello Jeff. I very like this super long video's, i watch every second and i laugh much on you and i learn much from you!! Your presentation is just great. Nice bathroom by the way 😀😀🖒🖒
Nice job. One thing I would have done different if it were me (but would have required a few additional floor tiles) is I would have removed a roll of stones from the top and bottom sections of the tiles to create a full stone consistent pattern to align together without a " cut-line" appearance in the flooring, just as it is on the sides of the tiles.. It would have given it an all natural stone look as if every stone was hand positioned and no tile lines, and it would remove the need for determining whether the rows were properly aligned.
agree. I sat down on the floor and hand placed each one around the edges and empty spaces to fill in. its tedious and takes a long time but..the results look good.
Great video as usual. I'd like to point out that the RedGuard Technical Data Sheet reads: "Install tile or stone with a Custom® Building Products polymer-modified mortar that meets ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 standards based on application requirements. "
This was exactly the reason I had to return a non modified mortar back to HD and get a polymer modified one! I don't know why Jeff is intentionally ignoring what the product label says
I did a LOT of research including professional tile forums and it was suggested that Custom Flexbond MODIFIED thinset was the way to go for my shower... I dont understand his angst
@@jefffree6990 hey did you use Red Guard as well? I'm at a pause not sure was thinset to use now that the redguard is one the walls, my tiles are 6"x36" porcelain tiles
Funny thing is, he's using modified thinset. It says right on the bag at 17:07. I think he's a bit confused. @HomeRenoVisionDIY, love the videos, keep it up.
The plastic wedges you used for leveling are actually great for scraping off excess thinset instead of that putty knife. That plus a sponge/water the next day does a great job.
I learned so much today on just two very important tips: Unmodified thinset over something like redguard, (and I assume for the green waterproofing also,) and 2) Direction of the leveling clip wedges to pull the joints together. Awesome, and thank you!
typically standard practice is to do the shower floor first, so that wall tile sits on the floor tile. That is also how ideal water flow is.... down the wall, onto the floor tile. The method in this video results in wall water going under the floor tile, which is not what you want. Even if you seal the corner with silicone, it is not ideal to seal two planes this way. Same idea why countertop backsplash sits on top of the countertop, not behind the countertop.
Sealed system. Order doesn't really matter. It's all getting wet anyway. It's meant to dry out either way. What does and doesn't get wet doesn't really matter.
I never ever start from floor but I never start wall tiles from the bottom. Always start from wall tiles but from second layer then floor tiles then on the end first layer of wall tiles. I done dozens of bathrooms.
59:58 The majority of Home Depot employees do not know about the applications or differences in the materials in their departments. I worked at HD (hardware department) for a couple of years and was surprised to learn that other folks in that department didn't know the difference between a roofing and a framing nail. I bet when you asked them about that thin set, they had no clue what you were asking for.
Cleaning off the thin set at the joint! My favorite tip of the day. So far... Just getting started on two bathrooms. One with a 3 x 6 shower. The other with a tub.
Hey Jeff, greetings from Bristol, Wisconsin. Funny story (from last week) in hindsight... I was intimidated to mix self-leveler because I am of short stature, and the corded power drill with the mixing paddle is higher up on me than of a tall person. One turn of the paddle with a little too much power...bucket moved, and the mix flew everywhere! Walls, tub, plywood, boots, socks and pants all became a target! I had to finish mixing it, since I was caked in it. 15 minutes later all was on the floor where it was supposed to be, and I had to gingerly walk through the house to hose off everything outside. Oh, and the mix? 2 inches caked in the bottom that I didn't realize was there. Good thing I was wearing my cruddy clothes! Mix didn't come out, boots might be ruined, but we'll see...😂
I'm new to your channel and just want to say thank you for your positive energy and information. I see quite a few comments that contradict what you're teaching but I see this as a huge plus! Your videos attract the 'another-way sayers' and the 'nay sayers'. Either way, im confident I'll get the answers I need. Thanks again and cheers! 7:36
Redgard Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane but critical step not to ignore, follow the instructions like you said and you will never be sorry, my contractor tried to convince me it was not necessary I told him otherwise cause I KNOW better. Nice tip on the hole saw, I also used a piece of scrap plywood with a hole of the same diameter to accomplish the same thing. Awesome video as always. Thank you.
59:03: I just put down an uncoupling mat (RedGard) I bought at Home Depot and used Mapei (from Lowes) Large format Floor and Wall Tile thin-set because the mat calls for "Using a thin-set mortar that meets ANSI A118.4, A118.15 and/or A118.11". It does not specify an "unmodified" mortar. The Mapei thin-set listed above is a modified thin-set.
Great video! I use a piece of blue painters tape across sheet tile over the cut area, mark it and cut. that way as u cut the individual pieces they dont push on you as they are being cut.
Great for DIYers, otherwise this was painful and amusing at the same time. Love watching Jeff act like he knows what he's doing. He's a great talker that's about it😂
I bought one of those hammer drills (18:35) for a renovation project I'm doing based off you using it in another video and it's been working great for me. I used it to drill some holes in a stone wall and was just mixing some patch/level mix with it today.
There’s a lot of really good tile lifting systems out there now, used for starting your bottom tile rows from. Great when used with a decent laser to get that perfect half a tile at top and bottom. Saves a lot of hassle when working alone and gives a solid level starting point on every wall.
Redgard requires MODIFIED thinset mortar. Here is copy and pasted information from Custom Building Products technical data sheet: Install tile or stone with a Custom® Building Products polymer- modified mortar that meets ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 standards based on application requirements.
This threw me off too. I know you'd use unmodified for Ditra but with redguard I was almost positive it specifically calls for modified thinset mortar. Thanks for the confirmation.
Funny how I’m watching this video, doing a DIY shower just like this one and the accent tile I used for my build is that identical glass tile. My wall tiles are the Torin Grey marble looking porcelain tile though. Great videos I watch them often
I’ve used the All Set the last couple of tile jobs for floors as it works below and above Schluter Ditra! I have found that it is smooth and creamy but does not have quite the open time as some other thinset.
The thing about all set is don’t mix it at any high speed mix it at low speed for the time posted on the bag it will have a longer open time and get the texture right and let it slake and don’t add water like Jeff that’s the wrong way. But higher speed less open time , lower speed longer open time
I've always tiled the shower floor first, then the back wall and then the two side walls. But I'm just an amateur that has done only about 5 showers so what do I know? I also follow the mfr. instructions on mixing thinset, grout, concrete, mortar or whatever and they always say measure the water and put it into the container (or mixer) first. I've never made a mistake doing that, and I never add water anymore once it has slaked. The only way to keep it (thinset, mortar, concrete etc.) from setting up before you are done is to keep it moving, mixing, or rotating in the drum. I have a great time watching your videos - very helpful tips. BTW I'm from Ontario Canada too.
It’s always a good lesson of scraping out dry thinset from between the grout lines to help you to remember to wipe away your edges and excess thinset before you lay each tile. Do it right first time around and you’ll save yourself so much trouble later. It makes it way less messy to.
Hello HRV DiY, I have a tiling question. I notice you are extending the tile wall outside the shower. Won't the thin set under the tile in the shower wick water out of the shower and to the floor outside the shower via the thin set under the tiles outside the shower since the tiles outside the shower have no shower pan to drain the water?
Did you use same thinset for the glass tile as the porcelain tile? Isn't that an issue? And are you concerned with glass cracking in shower b/c of different expansion and contraction rates of regular and glass tiles? Just trying to learn as I get ready to tile our shower.
I love watching your videos. I'm having my shower redone right now and the guy I hired is giving me some serious doubts and anxiety even though the company had decent reviews..
I sit on my toilet and stare at my bathroom and say every time I need to tile this whole bathroom I wonder how to do the ceiling. And whatayou know this video pops up months later right when I’m feeling motivated.
Hi Jeff, had a similar set up to you with 60cm x20cm porcelain tiles. Was stressing after I watched your video as had used Mapei aquadefense and had bought modified tile adhesive. The local tile store said modified with polymer is absolutely fine to use on aquadefense. But I wasn’t sure after watching your video and how adamant you were. So I called Mapei and they said their Mapei Keraflex maxi S1 (UK name) which is modified with polymer is designed to be used with aquadefense. So just thought i’d let you know. Love the channel and learnt so much from your videos. 🙌🙏🙏👍
there are a lot of modified products that can be used in submerged applications. I like the laticrete 254. especially in projects where i'm mixing products- stone ceramics etc
Hi Jeff I appreciate all your DIY videos, I am confused about the mortar issue in this video as you say you need unmodified but the bag of Schluter you are mixing there is the orange coloured Modified bag !!? the unmodified bags are Grey and is called Schulter Set . Can you please clarify this as I am about to tile my shower following your technique in the other shower video where you use the 36x18 tiles. In that video you also do not mention what type mortar you uses
Anyone else look away when he scrapped cement blobs off the tiles with the metal tools after he talked about how much you could mess them up 😂 ... hes a pro though I'd still have him build anything I'd want to own
I have a question a lot of your videos show you doing smooth application of the material and then others shows like it's grated or it has lines. My question is what is the difference between the two styles of applying katerial?
I am currently in the middle of a tile shower project as well. I used Kerdi Board as the waterproofing system. The tile store sold me the Schluter All Set Modified Mortar for the installation of the wall tiles - just wondering if this is appropriate mortar or if i should be doing the installation with a non-modified mortar.
Yes, modified thin-set is what you want. The OP of this video seems to have some deep rooted misconceptions regarding thin-set, modified vs. unmodified.
Mate on another subject hoping you can help . I’ve sheeted and tiled walls before fitting my shower pan . Worried now if I put pan in , there will be a gap around pan that will hold water . Any ideas how to fix or work around this ?
This may sound like a lot of work, I always pull off each piece of the pebble rock and set them separately - why - too eliminate the grid pattern - looks totally random when finished
@@pt2235 Thank you, profusely. Just did floor tiles two days ago, doing walls tomorrow. :P Got to love all the mini-heart attacks that comes with DIY firsts, at least most the dread has vanished now.
In the TDS: "Install tile or stone with a Custom® Building Products polymer- modified mortar that meets ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 standards based on application requirements."
Hi jeff, could use some help. Im planning a shower reno. I would like to use your system of using red guard over the membrane. It looked liked you used modified thinset for the membrane install... what kind/brand of thinset did you use for the tile install? The bag in the video looked like Schluter all set, which is a modifed thinset if im not mistaken...thank you for your videos they are great!!!
I recommend using schluter allset for every tile application. yes it is modified but it is a special product that works in both modified and non modified scenarios. Cheers!
Think I would have gone with a solid one slab for the bench. The grout line not lining up with bench lines kills my OCD. Similar to what you did with the sill.
I just had a dumb idea… could be low key brilliant though, hear me out; imagine Jeff doing a job, but the audience gets to nerf him. Effectively forcing him to either do things the hard way, improvise, and just struggle in general. Ya can even do it wheel of fortune style. Removing tools from his toolbox etc. I think it could not just be hilarious, but cathartic and possibly informative and inspiring at the same time. Great work as always folks!
Thanks for the video. Was helpful in planning a layout to avoid issues. You sure about that part about using non modified thin set though? The bag you re using at 17:05 says modified on it anyway. Looks to be "Schluter ALL-SET" which says "Specialized Modified Thin-set Mortar". I'm not sure why you went on the hunt for non modified when you were already using modified. When talking about them you imply they are 2 very different products that work in different ways. My understanding was modified is the same product basically but with added polymers. Google suggests thats correct: "Modified thin set mortar has the same essential elements as its unmodified counterpart but includes latex/polymer additives. The additives increase adhesion, strength, and shock resistance while also reducing water absorption." The membranes i have been looking at all say to use a modified thin set.
This video reminds me of why I hate installing tile. Iv'e been there many, many, many times. Most people don't understand what a physically, and mentally demanding job installing tile is. It's really draining hard work. You did a nice job Jeff ,despite some bumps in the road. My tile work always looks mint when finished, but I truly despise doing it now. I'd rather sub it out to a good tile guy and save myself the physical torture.DRAINING!!!!!!!!
Also forgot to mention. If there is plastic wrap and cardboard backing on the sheet tile packaging, "DONT" remove it. Mark and cut the tile in the packaging. This keeps the sheet of tile and mesh backing dry and sturdy while running through the wet saw. This tip is absolutely huge buddy!
45:11am not even on the job and i knew that you wanted two little notches cut for the drain pan and the tab in the middle left on but that's just how my tile brain works lol that is how i would have cut it PS i would not have tried to tile it all in one day think that would be pushing it i also always work by myself and when am tiling i always buy my tile supplies at a tile store that supplies the local installers
Most modified thin-set's can be applied over RedGard. Unmodified thin-set is NOT recommended. The OP of this video has some serious misconceptions going on.
Always watch your vids and learn something new each time. Thanks Jeff.. hey quick question. Checking out Custom products offers a plethora of rapid set, thinset mortars, patching/leveling compounds, membranes, waterproofing products etc. Here’s what’s goin on- planning to use QVE Decors composite shower panels in 30x60 walk in alcove shower. Noticed my cement board walls weren’t level basically bottom half having up to 1/4” low spots. First used Customs SPEEDSET on head wall & 59” back wall. Attached some 3/16” vertical strips, applied speedset then skeeted making for level walls. The rear wall opted to secure small sheet of 1/4” durarock @ 32”Hx22”W attached to cement board surface using fabric tape & Speedset around perimeter. Need to do final skim coat blending it level as possible. With so many products offered what specific product would you recommend for my final skim coat perhaps utilizing a type of membrane over bottom half of wall ? Really would appreciate you advice Jeff. The project becoming a pain in my arss wanting be done asap.
I saw you also applied Redguard to floor. I am planning to build mortar shower pan with PVC liner in the middle. Can I apply Redguard on top of the finished mortar shower pan? I am wondering if I can seal wall and floor together by doing that. I think it will avoid moisture getting behind the wall. Is it helpful or just paranoid, or even causing trouble? It might trap moisture in the top layer of mortar shower pan, if water gets in there. What is your opinion?
If you're doing a mudpan then you can either do a dual slope pan with a PVC liner and the proper drain for that system , or you can do a pan with a topical membrane and a bonding flange drain. You can't combine the two systems because you'll be creating a place to trap water, leading to failure
Thanks for watching! If you found this video helpful, please subscribe. Watch the full renovation 👉🏼ruclips.net/p/PL34cQkzKfXWbFlHORkoa-81S1aasqUXf8
Cheers!
I put a tile cut in the wrong direction and no one has caught it
Great video looking forward to the grout video. It will come in handy as I’m working on a stone tile bathroom now. I have 60inch sliding shower door I will be installing. Do I need to put the 1 degree slope on the marble sill or does it need to be leveled?
Love your videos! I have an outdated shower with large format tile on the walls. What is the easiest way to demo these with minimal drywall damage (if possible)?
Hi Jeff - wondering how is using the notched metal trowel on the barrier coat ok without damaging it?
It's nice to sit here on a Saturday afternoon, cold beer in hand and watch Jeff make mistakes just like us mere mortals.
Well said!
Made a great Saturday night for me...😂
Shut the hell up
Appreciate the love. Cheers
You know Jeff only makes "mistakes" for the benefit of the tutorial. The humble teacher 🙌
I'm a tile contractor, a few tips:
- Make your walls plumb and square before or while you are installing your wall board. You can plane proud studs and shim where they are short, or you can wet shim the studs, sister new studs, whatever you want really, but it makes the job come out so much better, and saves a lot of time in the end.
- set and grout your shower pan first, this does 2 things, it protects your waterproofing, and it makes a much better joint where the floor and wall meet. You can mask the completed pan off with anything once it's dry, I use 72" painters plastic and mask everything but 1/2" from the walls and curb. Then I put some foam pads I have over that, but cardboard works too.
- measure your water, and for mixing partial batches of thinset either weigh it or mix 1/2 bag at a time. Guessing creates an inconsistent mix.
- put your water in the bucket first so you get a good even mix without any dry spots sticking to the bucket. Since you measured your water, this is easy and logical to do first.
It's too late now, but that shower valve should have been screwed to some blocking to keep it at the correct depth so the escutcheon can do its job, and to protect the plumbing. you might be able to fix it from the other side of the wall, but it would have been much easier before you closed up the walls.
I think he did set the valve a few videos back, but I agree, I did the same thing when I tiled my shower. Correction: I guess I was wrong, he didn't.
Man ,everything you said is spot on!
yeah i thought it was strange to tile the wall first then the floor!?
On the floor do you line up all the cut tiles to form a nice line in the middle?
Thank you!
You’re killing me! All that talk about not using metal tools on tile face and then you go scraping the fronts when installing the marble with the trowel! Nothing but love! I love your videos!
So true, I was yelling at the screen.
this video is for people who don`t have a clue about this type of job. I didn`t see too many comments from pro and every pro tell you as he make many things wrong...
I came to the comments looking for this one
Finally a video thats shows the real hardships of tiling i was starting to think i was the only one that made mistakes.. real life tile is hard and dirty
Great video! I leaned a lot from watching this video. I like how you show the hidden problems you run into while doing your work!
So important to show the flaws in a fun and humerus way! Gives us DIY’ers the extra knowledge to think ahead and gain confidence to always correct flaws before everything sets!
Jeff, you are awesome! You handled that accent tile issue like a true champion! Calm as cucumber, just doing what needs to be done! Big thumbs up!
Jeff very good for beening so cut up.keep up the good work. Have a cold one.👍
good advice
Can't do contracting that long in life without being able to fix a mistake without stressing too much.
Du. Bist der beste und gluecklichste handwerker
Thanks!
Jeff - Thank you for posting this series! There is very little online about renovating mobile/manufactured homes. Ours was built in the ‘70s to a price point and to meet that decade’s codes. The state codes here in California are much stricter now. They prohibit many things that local codes allow in conventional construction. A key factor is that they must remain moveable. A crew must be able to split a double-wide and move the units separately down the highway.
When our roof was replaced last year, couldn’t even upgrade the original 3/8“ roof sheathing with 1/2”. It would be too heavy for the trusses. Strengthening the trusses would make them too heavy for the studs. Beefing up the studs would make them too heavy for the floor joists. Stronger floor joists and sub-flooring would be too heavy for the foundation and for the axles used on the road. Similar constraints exist for heavier drywall, replacing a fiberglass shower enclosure with ceramic tile, etc.
I don’t know whether Florida has special state (or local) mobile home building codes, plan approvals, and inspections as does California. I hope that all goes well for your project!
Thanks!
I was taught to do the floor before setting the bottom row of wall tiles. Level line around shower, start one wall tile up, finish wall tiles above level line, lay floor then cut and lay last row of wall time. Wall tile overlaps floor tile that way. Which is the better way?
i was wondering that as well. I typically would do floor first and have the wall overlap that way theres no vertical joint at the base of the wall for water to run into in a worst case scenario.
I like setting the floor first then the walls, there's not a set in stone correct way. For me if I "think like water" it makes sense to have the walls overhanging the floor. It's the same thought process I use for doing roofing and siding. I also use epoxy grout. Belts and braces - every little bit I can do to prevent water flowing places other than the drain I will do it.
typically standard practice is to do the shower floor first, so that wall tile sits on the floor tile. That is also how ideal water flow is.... down the wall, onto the floor tile.
The method in this video results in wall water going under the floor tile, which is not what you want. Even if you seal the corner with silicone, it is not ideal to seal two planes this way. Same idea why countertop backsplash sits on top of the countertop, not behind the countertop.
this is how I put tiles all the time and this is correct process.
I love all of your videos, even if they have nothing to do with what I'm looking at doing, it's just so enjoyable watching your videos and genuinely relaxing, you're like the Bob Ross of building, just a pleasure to watch...
Keep on doing what you're doing it definitely means a lot...
Really appreciate that. Cheers
My pleasure, keep doing what your doing, your helping more people out than you probably realize just being you, the way that you show and explain things, gives people the confidence to try things out, I'm so grateful for what you do and always look forward to anything you post.@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
bob ross of building???😂😂😂 omgosh what's wrong with people nowadays, Bob Ross was a professional painter
@@qhpainters I'm referring to the calming feeling that comes over you when you watch his videos, it always promotes positiveness and shows that anyone can have a go at something...
Hello Jeff. I very like this super long video's, i watch every second and i laugh much on you and i learn much from you!! Your presentation is just great. Nice bathroom by the way 😀😀🖒🖒
Nice job. One thing I would have done different if it were me (but would have required a few additional floor tiles) is I would have removed a roll of stones from the top and bottom sections of the tiles to create a full stone consistent pattern to align together without a " cut-line" appearance in the flooring, just as it is on the sides of the tiles.. It would have given it an all natural stone look as if every stone was hand positioned and no tile lines, and it would remove the need for determining whether the rows were properly aligned.
agree. I sat down on the floor and hand placed each one around the edges and empty spaces to fill in. its tedious and takes a long time but..the results look good.
Great video as usual.
I'd like to point out that the RedGuard Technical Data Sheet reads: "Install tile or stone with a Custom® Building Products polymer-modified mortar that meets ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 standards based on application requirements.
"
This was exactly the reason I had to return a non modified mortar back to HD and get a polymer modified one! I don't know why Jeff is intentionally ignoring what the product label says
I did a LOT of research including professional tile forums and it was suggested that Custom Flexbond MODIFIED thinset was the way to go for my shower... I dont understand his angst
@@jefffree6990 hey did you use Red Guard as well? I'm at a pause not sure was thinset to use now that the redguard is one the walls, my tiles are 6"x36" porcelain tiles
@FPUGUY Polymer modified LTF mortar by Custom - this is what I used a year ago and don't have any issues. Red Gard was applied onto a cement board.
Funny thing is, he's using modified thinset. It says right on the bag at 17:07. I think he's a bit confused. @HomeRenoVisionDIY, love the videos, keep it up.
The plastic wedges you used for leveling are actually great for scraping off excess thinset instead of that putty knife. That plus a sponge/water the next day does a great job.
I learned so much today on just two very important tips: Unmodified thinset over something like redguard, (and I assume for the green waterproofing also,) and 2) Direction of the leveling clip wedges to pull the joints together. Awesome, and thank you!
typically standard practice is to do the shower floor first, so that wall tile sits on the floor tile. That is also how ideal water flow is.... down the wall, onto the floor tile.
The method in this video results in wall water going under the floor tile, which is not what you want. Even if you seal the corner with silicone, it is not ideal to seal two planes this way. Same idea why countertop backsplash sits on top of the countertop, not behind the countertop.
Sealed system. Order doesn't really matter. It's all getting wet anyway. It's meant to dry out either way. What does and doesn't get wet doesn't really matter.
I never ever start from floor but I never start wall tiles from the bottom. Always start from wall tiles but from second layer then floor tiles then on the end first layer of wall tiles. I done dozens of bathrooms.
If you do the floor first you should cover it to prevent thinset from filling the grout lines @@frankcatrini4816
59:58 The majority of Home Depot employees do not know about the applications or differences in the materials in their departments. I worked at HD (hardware department) for a couple of years and was surprised to learn that other folks in that department didn't know the difference between a roofing and a framing nail. I bet when you asked them about that thin set, they had no clue what you were asking for.
Cleaning off the thin set at the joint! My favorite tip of the day. So far... Just getting started on two bathrooms. One with a 3 x 6 shower. The other with a tub.
I really enjoy your videos, full of good information, you a lot of fun to watch.
2 hours, thank you! Gives me something to watch for my turkey/food coma. Happy Thanksgiving
Same to you!
Thanks for all the ads you provide every few minutes! 😊
love the long videos....the design and tile you used looks amazing
Great job, Jeff. Your shower looks great. Thanks for showing us how’s it done. 🇨🇦💝👍
Always love this guy. It's like hanging out with Dad. Love his delivery.
Hey Jeff, greetings from Bristol, Wisconsin. Funny story (from last week) in hindsight...
I was intimidated to mix self-leveler because I am of short stature, and the corded power drill with the mixing paddle is higher up on me than of a tall person. One turn of the paddle with a little too much power...bucket moved, and the mix flew everywhere! Walls, tub, plywood, boots, socks and pants all became a target! I had to finish mixing it, since I was caked in it. 15 minutes later all was on the floor where it was supposed to be, and I had to gingerly walk through the house to hose off everything outside. Oh, and the mix? 2 inches caked in the bottom that I didn't realize was there. Good thing I was wearing my cruddy clothes! Mix didn't come out, boots might be ruined, but we'll see...😂
Water goes in the bucket first, that will stop the caking.
sh^t happens it is how we learn
@@S14zenkiQs I did put water in first, just too much compound before starting to mix
Loving it
Man, that’s a lot of work. I can see why the cost is what it is. Great job, Jeff. 🇨🇦💝👍
This is better than a movie. Merci beaucoup!
I like the coffee and cigarettes strategy for home self improvement projects. Towards the end it’s more cigarette breaks then actual work being done.
I'm new to your channel and just want to say thank you for your positive energy and information. I see quite a few comments that contradict what you're teaching but I see this as a huge plus! Your videos attract the 'another-way sayers' and the 'nay sayers'. Either way, im confident I'll get the answers I need. Thanks again and cheers! 7:36
Redgard Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane but critical step not to ignore, follow the instructions like you said and you will never be sorry, my contractor tried to convince me it was not necessary I told him otherwise cause I KNOW better. Nice tip on the hole saw, I also used a piece of scrap plywood with a hole of the same diameter to accomplish the same thing. Awesome video as always. Thank you.
59:03: I just put down an uncoupling mat (RedGard) I bought at Home Depot and used Mapei (from Lowes) Large format Floor and Wall Tile thin-set because the mat calls for "Using a thin-set mortar that meets ANSI A118.4, A118.15 and/or A118.11". It does not specify an "unmodified" mortar.
The Mapei thin-set listed above is a modified thin-set.
Great video! I use a piece of blue painters tape across sheet tile over the cut area, mark it and cut. that way as u cut the individual pieces they dont push on you as they are being cut.
yup
The last triangle piece at the top of the wall was so satisfying, well done!
Use painter's tape to hold Schluter trim in place. Always try to tile the base first to hide base cuts.
Great for DIYers, otherwise this was painful and amusing at the same time. Love watching Jeff act like he knows what he's doing. He's a great talker that's about it😂
Love how he didn't show the 100% coverage he was talking about when he pulled off the tile literally looked like 20%. Jeff your work is TERRIBLE.
I bought one of those hammer drills (18:35) for a renovation project I'm doing based off you using it in another video and it's been working great for me. I used it to drill some holes in a stone wall and was just mixing some patch/level mix with it today.
There’s a lot of really good tile lifting systems out there now, used for starting your bottom tile rows from. Great when used with a decent laser to get that perfect half a tile at top and bottom. Saves a lot of hassle when working alone and gives a solid level starting point on every wall.
Thank you for informing us of the correct thin set for this product.
I use scraps of shower pan liner to protect shower floor while I'm working on shower walls. Great video
I always learn something from the video and comments and than I argue with my husband because I have my opinion 😃, but he usually knows! Blessings!
Jeff, All I can say is wow!! That shower is gorgeous. 👍 👍
Cheers
Time well spent, learned alot. Thanks Jeff!
Redgard requires MODIFIED thinset mortar. Here is copy and pasted information from Custom Building Products technical data sheet: Install tile or stone with a Custom® Building Products polymer-
modified mortar that meets ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 standards
based on application requirements.
This threw me off too. I know you'd use unmodified for Ditra but with redguard I was almost positive it specifically calls for modified thinset mortar. Thanks for the confirmation.
We use gypsum board for floor protecting, especially if the floor tiles are already installed before the wall tiles. Greetings from Poland.
I have watched a lot of your videos. all have been very inform-able. this one diffidently has taught me what not to do.
Bravo❤ apprwciate the great work. From Horn of Africa.
Funny how I’m watching this video, doing a DIY shower just like this one and the accent tile I used for my build is that identical glass tile. My wall tiles are the Torin Grey marble looking porcelain tile though. Great videos I watch them often
I’ve used the All Set the last couple of tile jobs for floors as it works below and above Schluter Ditra! I have found that it is smooth and creamy but does not have quite the open time as some other thinset.
The thing about all set is don’t mix it at any high speed mix it at low speed for the time posted on the bag it will have a longer open time and get the texture right and let it slake and don’t add water like Jeff that’s the wrong way. But higher speed less open time , lower speed longer open time
I've always tiled the shower floor first, then the back wall and then the two side walls. But I'm just an amateur that has done only about 5 showers so what do I know? I also follow the mfr. instructions on mixing thinset, grout, concrete, mortar or whatever and they always say measure the water and put it into the container (or mixer) first. I've never made a mistake doing that, and I never add water anymore once it has slaked. The only way to keep it (thinset, mortar, concrete etc.) from setting up before you are done is to keep it moving, mixing, or rotating in the drum. I have a great time watching your videos - very helpful tips. BTW I'm from Ontario Canada too.
I use 2 padded moving blankets!! Sometimes if available I will put down cardboard then the moving blankets!
It’s always a good lesson of scraping out dry thinset from between the grout lines to help you to remember to wipe away your edges and excess thinset before you lay each tile. Do it right first time around and you’ll save yourself so much trouble later. It makes it way less messy to.
I prefer doing floor 1st than tiling the walls etc….and YES after tiling floor, cover w/ Ram board for protection.
Hello HRV DiY, I have a tiling question. I notice you are extending the tile wall outside the shower. Won't the thin set under the tile in the shower wick water out of the shower and to the floor outside the shower via the thin set under the tiles outside the shower since the tiles outside the shower have no shower pan to drain the water?
Great series! Thank you for sharing.
Did you use same thinset for the glass tile as the porcelain tile? Isn't that an issue? And are you concerned with glass cracking in shower b/c of different expansion and contraction rates of regular and glass tiles? Just trying to learn as I get ready to tile our shower.
Home Depot always has everything but the one thing you need 🤷♂️
beautiful work, my good man!
Another great video Jeff thanks
Fabulous video. I learned a bunch!
I love watching your videos. I'm having my shower redone right now and the guy I hired is giving me some serious doubts and anxiety even though the company had decent reviews..
How’d it come out?
Good work I am a Tiler my self here in west-Africa Ghana for 15 years, Hoping to come to your country and work.
Great video, I like to do the floor first . Much love from Miami.
I sit on my toilet and stare at my bathroom and say every time I need to tile this whole bathroom I wonder how to do the ceiling. And whatayou know this video pops up months later right when I’m feeling motivated.
Nice hole saw skills on the tile 👍
What is the size of the square notched trowel used to lay down your tile? Do you recommend a size in particular for the tooth?
Hi Jeff, had a similar set up to you with 60cm x20cm porcelain tiles. Was stressing after I watched your video as had used Mapei aquadefense and had bought modified tile adhesive. The local tile store said modified with polymer is absolutely fine to use on aquadefense. But I wasn’t sure after watching your video and how adamant you were. So I called Mapei and they said their Mapei Keraflex maxi S1 (UK name) which is modified with polymer is designed to be used with aquadefense. So just thought i’d let you know. Love the channel and learnt so much from your videos. 🙌🙏🙏👍
What’s wrong with using custom brand large format tile mortar. All HD stores seem to have it. Not understanding
There's nothing wrong with it. Jeff has some misconceptions about modified vs. unmodified thin-set.
there are a lot of modified products that can be used in submerged applications. I like the laticrete 254. especially in projects where i'm mixing products- stone ceramics etc
Hi Jeff I appreciate all your DIY videos, I am confused about the mortar issue in this video as you say you need unmodified but the bag of Schluter you are mixing there is the orange coloured Modified bag !!? the unmodified bags are Grey and is called Schulter Set . Can you please clarify this as I am about to tile my shower following your technique in the other shower video where you use the 36x18 tiles. In that video you also do not mention what type mortar you uses
Anyone else look away when he scrapped cement blobs off the tiles with the metal tools after he talked about how much you could mess them up 😂 ... hes a pro though I'd still have him build anything I'd want to own
He is DIY PRO 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great job Jeff ❤️. To me drain strip 1 stone width away from wall may have looked better.
I have a question a lot of your videos show you doing smooth application of the material and then others shows like it's grated or it has lines. My question is what is the difference between the two styles of applying katerial?
I am currently in the middle of a tile shower project as well. I used Kerdi Board as the waterproofing system. The tile store sold me the Schluter All Set Modified Mortar for the installation of the wall tiles - just wondering if this is appropriate mortar or if i should be doing the installation with a non-modified mortar.
Yes, modified thin-set is what you want. The OP of this video seems to have some deep rooted misconceptions regarding thin-set, modified vs. unmodified.
Great looking tile job!
Hello and thanks for the video! Where did you find that 10mm thick glass accent trim? Thanks in advance!
Mate on another subject hoping you can help . I’ve sheeted and tiled walls before fitting my shower pan . Worried now if I put pan in , there will be a gap around pan that will hold water . Any ideas how to fix or work around this ?
This may sound like a lot of work, I always pull off each piece of the pebble rock and set them separately - why - too eliminate the grid pattern - looks totally random when finished
Do showers and floors not need rubber or concrete padding? Ive seen the pink sealer before idk if that’s something new?
You are an artist, Jeff. I learned a lot from you and your videos.
Cheers
Did you end up using unmodified thin set? Won’t modified be better?
Yes, in fact it is the recommended thin set for tiling, even over RedGard or any waterproofing membrane.
Wait, I thought RedGard actually recommends modified thinset? Though the spec sheet doesn't seem to specify one way or other. Can anyone confirm? X.x
Yes correct should use modified mortar as per redgard
@@pt2235 Thank you, profusely. Just did floor tiles two days ago, doing walls tomorrow. :P Got to love all the mini-heart attacks that comes with DIY firsts, at least most the dread has vanished now.
In the TDS: "Install tile or stone with a Custom® Building Products polymer-
modified mortar that meets ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 standards based
on application requirements."
Is the red guard as good as the schluter? Which one do you prefer?
Hi jeff, could use some help. Im planning a shower reno. I would like to use your system of using red guard over the membrane. It looked liked you used modified thinset for the membrane install... what kind/brand of thinset did you use for the tile install? The bag in the video looked like Schluter all set, which is a modifed thinset if im not mistaken...thank you for your videos they are great!!!
I recommend using schluter allset for every tile application. yes it is modified but it is a special product that works in both modified and non modified scenarios. Cheers!
Think I would have gone with a solid one slab for the bench. The grout line not lining up with bench lines kills my OCD. Similar to what you did with the sill.
I just had a dumb idea… could be low key brilliant though, hear me out; imagine Jeff doing a job, but the audience gets to nerf him. Effectively forcing him to either do things the hard way, improvise, and just struggle in general. Ya can even do it wheel of fortune style. Removing tools from his toolbox etc. I think it could not just be hilarious, but cathartic and possibly informative and inspiring at the same time. Great work as always folks!
Thanks for the video. Was helpful in planning a layout to avoid issues.
You sure about that part about using non modified thin set though?
The bag you re using at 17:05 says modified on it anyway. Looks to be "Schluter ALL-SET" which says "Specialized Modified Thin-set Mortar". I'm not sure why you went on the hunt for non modified when you were already using modified.
When talking about them you imply they are 2 very different products that work in different ways. My understanding was modified is the same product basically but with added polymers.
Google suggests thats correct:
"Modified thin set mortar has the same essential elements as its unmodified counterpart but includes latex/polymer additives. The additives increase adhesion, strength, and shock resistance while also reducing water absorption."
The membranes i have been looking at all say to use a modified thin set.
This video reminds me of why I hate installing tile. Iv'e been there many, many, many times. Most people don't understand what a physically, and mentally demanding job installing tile is. It's really draining hard work. You did a nice job Jeff ,despite some bumps in the road. My tile work always looks mint when finished, but I truly despise doing it now. I'd rather sub it out to a good tile guy and save myself the physical torture.DRAINING!!!!!!!!
Also forgot to mention. If there is plastic wrap and cardboard backing on the sheet tile packaging, "DONT" remove it. Mark and cut the tile in the packaging. This keeps the sheet of tile and mesh backing dry and sturdy while running through the wet saw. This tip is absolutely huge buddy!
45:11am not even on the job and i knew that you wanted two little notches cut for the drain pan and the tab in the middle left on but that's just how my tile brain works lol that is how i would have cut it PS i would not have tried to tile it all in one day think that would be pushing it i also always work by myself and when am tiling i always buy my tile supplies at a tile store that supplies the local installers
Can you use Schuder all set over redguard? Ty
buy a whole box, for replacement tile. They discontinue tile all the time, i had to learn the hard way. Great job buddy.
I know it’s to late now but flexbond LFT says I’m it’s data sheet that it can be applied over redgard
Most modified thin-set's can be applied over RedGard. Unmodified thin-set is NOT recommended. The OP of this video has some serious misconceptions going on.
For the buildup part, could one add thin-set and let it dry and comeback later on and add the tile?
Well done. Although tile is not a good idea for a mobile home as much as they shift around. I had to us dumo tile for weight concerns.
Another nice video. Is this drywall that you are tiling, also will tile weight be a problem for drywall.
Always watch your vids and learn something new each time. Thanks Jeff.. hey quick question. Checking out Custom products offers a plethora of rapid set, thinset mortars, patching/leveling compounds, membranes, waterproofing products etc.
Here’s what’s goin on- planning to use QVE Decors composite shower panels in 30x60 walk in alcove shower. Noticed my cement board walls weren’t level basically bottom half having up to 1/4” low spots. First used Customs SPEEDSET on head wall & 59” back wall. Attached some 3/16” vertical strips, applied speedset then skeeted making for level walls. The rear wall opted to secure small sheet of 1/4” durarock @ 32”Hx22”W attached to cement board surface using fabric tape & Speedset around perimeter. Need to do final skim coat blending it level as possible.
With so many products offered what specific product would you recommend for my final skim coat perhaps utilizing a type of membrane over bottom half of wall ? Really would appreciate you advice Jeff. The project becoming a pain in my arss wanting be done asap.
I saw you also applied Redguard to floor. I am planning to build mortar shower pan with PVC liner in the middle. Can I apply Redguard on top of the finished mortar shower pan? I am wondering if I can seal wall and floor together by doing that. I think it will avoid moisture getting behind the wall. Is it helpful or just paranoid, or even causing trouble? It might trap moisture in the top layer of mortar shower pan, if water gets in there. What is your opinion?
If you're doing a mudpan then you can either do a dual slope pan with a PVC liner and the proper drain for that system , or you can do a pan with a topical membrane and a bonding flange drain. You can't combine the two systems because you'll be creating a place to trap water, leading to failure