Peter Wright Anvil Restoration - 225lb Anvil Repair | Iron Wolf Industrial
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Watch as I take this beat up Peter Wright anvil and bring it back to life, through a lot of welding, grinding, and surface finishing, Truly a showroom-grade piece, and definitely one of the finest London patterned anvils I've seen. Peter Wright anvils were typically made with a tool-steel faceplate, and a solid wrought iron body and horn. This one just required some repairs to the edges, face, and horn, though nothing too extreme. This would be a great shop anvil, as it's still light enough to move around if need be.
#blacksmithing #restoration #diy
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Looks beautiful. +1 😍
2:01 COMMENT: Ive never taken I welding course, nor do I own an anvil, but I do have a minimal grasp of basic physics. What you said about driving off water, while totally correct, is (AFAIK) not the primary goal of preheating your work prior to welding - it is just a highly desirable side effect. As I understand it, steel undergoes a certain amount of expansion or contraction in certain temperature ranges (and those ranges can vary for different alloys just like it does for heat treating), and as a result if you weld 2 pieces of steel together (re: either forge welding or by using welding rod) that are in different states of thermal expansion or contraction, then once they both cool down to the same ambient room temp, that weld will incur a degree of permanent stress, and will have an increased likelyhood of failing at some point. Adequate preheating supposedly helps to limit/reduce the amount of stress that gets stored in the welded seam.
This is absolutely one of the most well thought out comments I have received. You are absolutely correct in your explanation. The most visible effect of preheating is seeing the water heated off the surface, but its effect is primarily reducing stresses as you've stated. Hydrogen embrittlement and stress fractures from heating/cooling too rapidly are both things you want to avoid. Fantastic job on the research. I've pinned your comment for others to see!
@@IronWolfIndustrial You are very welcome. 😄
BTW, to anyone who might not have already heard the term, the "Leidenfrost Effect" is a relevant visual telltale here, and worth a glance at wikipedia. By happy coincidence, the L.E. Threshold for Water (i.e., when a surface becomes hot enough for water droplets to begin skittering about) is around 380F, which AFAIK seems to match up nicely with the optimal preheat temp for some common varieties of steel. A 3rd option for confirming preheat temp (in addition to melt sticks or the leidenfrost threshold for water) is a handheld Infrared gun that tell you more quickly and accurately where you're at, and not leave a residue like those melt sticks. I got mine on Amazon for around $20-30 USD . . . I use it for cooking (ex: making flatbreads on a cast iron griddle, or pizza on a baking stone).
I'd think if I found a Peter Wright,or Hay Budden,in that good of shape ...I wouldn't wash it for a uear,a d I'd build it a stand near the T.V.
You did a wonderful job making that anvil pretty again, but you ruined it as a working anvil. The first person that puts that anvil to work is going to be very disappointed.
have fun piercing your thigh on that horn. there’s a reason they were dulled. smiths would hammer back on the sharp horn so they don’t accidentally pierce themselves and if you need a horn with that thin of an end they’d use a bicern.
The horn was blunted by the original smith so he wouldn't stab himself walking by it.
I disagree. Any good smith wouldn't purposely damage his investments.
I bought 2 Peter Write anvils, one like this, and a 120 pound one. They make an acid that will raise the stamped letters, they use it on guns with the SN# ground away.
I just picked up a PW. I want to clean it up but I don't want to grind off stamped info. It's a beautiful piece of work
Smartest thing I've heard in a while. Why people grind on the sides of an anvil are evil. Even this video had me hurting. You and I both know half of the damage from the info stamp was done while bro grinded away on the anvil while listening to baby cradle music.
normally im against restoring anvils unless absolutely necessary but that turned out really good and undoubtedly restore some of its usefulness. you may not want the tip of that anvil to be that sharp however, the first time you catch your leg on it you will find out why lol
Yes sir, I have already been thinking about that. Definitely going to round it to a nice domed point haha! Thanks for the comment
great for destroying a mobile phone in your pocket ..... don't ask!
I have a Peter Wright. I think it's 236 lb of I read it right, I've been researching. On repairing the edges in welding And you pretty much have done what I want to do to mine. I picked the same Rod before I saw your video, which makes me happy. My main question is I don't want to Ruin the heat treat. Did you preheat and then weld in small amounts or Just run long beads. I'm comfortable doing the work myself. I just don't want to ruin. A nice piece of history, but I want to Breathe new life into it so I can get Good use out of it.
Pre-heat the entire anvil, stitch weld the edges and don't over heat or the face will seperate. This video is a lesson in how to ruin a good working anvil. If you want a lawn decoration then this is how to do it.
Nice restoration! I found my Peter Wright last year and only had to wire wheel off some rust and buff the face, other than that it was pretty much in near perfect condition. Keep up the good work!
Great to hear! Keep em in service!!
This is awesome - I've got a Peter Wright exactly like this one. I'm learning to smith and also some fabrication...I'm waiting for my welding skills to come up a little before I work on the anvil :D
Very beautiful. Excellent video. Crazy lucky find.
Yes sir, lots of fun.
Amazing restoration. Anvil looks like new
Thank you. Now I can't wait to use it!
Another fine restoration, Boss! Good to see you back!
Thank you sir! Thanks for following along
Curious why you would go to great lengths to grind to perfection instead of leaving the character of the anvil as is?
The face and edges were necessary because make in the anvil will transfer into your work piece. I don't like the grinding on the body though there was no need for it
S!ngularity I find what transfers into ones work is the signature of you and the anvil, within reason of course!
@@dondawson1 depending on the type of craftsman you are that may be what your looking for, but personally as I sell most of the products I make clean forging is a must
Donald Dawson if you’ve ever used a new anvil you’d know, it’s amazing
Donald, great question. I'm all for leaving character, but restoration on the working surfaces (for me) is a must. The cleaner the face, and the smoother the edges, the cleaner your pieces will turn out. I polish my hammer faces to a mirror for the exact same reason. The cleaner your piece turns out forged, the less filing/grinding you will have to do (if any) to bring your piece into a finished state.In terms of grinding/cleaning up the body: I was looking to uncover lettering, and also to remove some of the abuse on the anvil. I'm not a fan of rough/abused anvils, and try to "restore" them to a much cleaner state. All different preferences for all different people, but the most important thing is we all love the same craft and are working to keep it going. Thanks for the comment!
Nice job! good looking Anvil!
Thank you!
What a thing of beauty. I am not a blacksmith but I would love to have such a thing just sitting in my living room...
I am glad you appreciate this work! It is certainly a beautiful piece to admire. I will keep it well oiled!
What kind of wheel is that at 4:30? Is it just a worn out cup brush or a stone of some kind?
It is a worn out cup brush. However, at 2:58 , you will notice I'm using a stone cup known as a snagging wheel. They are made by Norton under their Bluefire line. They will cut through steel as quick as a torch.
Iron Wolf Industrial thanks man, I’m going to have to order some.
Beautiful ,what was that rotary sander make ?
It was a Milwaukee Straight Grinder with a flap wheel.. I can get some more details in a bit.
Pretty awesome. Now, I haven't owned an anvil like this but they strike my curiosity. It it were mine I'd probably be tempted to have the top cleaned up with a surface grinder. Isn't it to your advantage to have a perfectly flat, precise surface on an anvil, or am I over-thinking it? I happened to see one sell at auction 2 miles from home on Sat. Sold for $500 and came with a pretty nifty cast iron stand. Had been sitting in a barn for 50 years and was rusted pretty good though. Might have been a good candidate for your type of restoration? How did your welds hold up in comparison to the original steel face?
I have, what I believe to be a Wright, its very hard to determine for sure. I does look like the one you worked on, for collector value, is it better to leave in its rusted state?
Nice project.
Thank you!
So beautiful, what rod was that you used and amps
Great job, what kind of rod did you use?
I have a 126 pound Peter Wright that is missing the chunk of the top plate from the Hardy hole at an angle across it to the heel. I been trying to figure out how to fix it. I will send you a few pictures if you want. Our 308 pound 1918 Fisher is awesome but I would like to repair the PW for use. I am I'll with a stomach bug that's going around but will have my son take pictures when he gets home. Were can I send them? I am curious how you would fix it?
There is no anvil "beyond repair." I've fixed anvils similar to yours with whole chunks taken out of the top faceplate and body. Kindly send photos to ironwolfindustrial@gmail.com I would love to help you in your efforts!
I have a Peter Wright anvil that belonged to my great grandfather. I want to eventually pass it down to a son or grandson. I store it in a garage in Phoenix...so low humidity. Should I do anything to clean/maintain it? All of the words and numbers are clearly readable. 1-3-9 which I take is 205 lbs.
Clean it up with a wire brush, then rub some boiled linseed oil or light machine oil into it.
great job sir it cleaned up really nice . I have a anvil that looks very similar to the one you got i got a wire wheel to it and BLACK PRINCE. do u happened to know anything about that type of brand?
I know nothing about that brand! I'll check the good book though, and see if it comes up anywhere. Odd brand... Hmmm...
I have a mouse hole anvil in need of restoration... any suggestions on where or who could possibly help me out?
All depends on your budget. Send me an email, ironwolfindustrial@gmail.com , and we can discuss this further!
Very nice job!
What could you use to keep the anvil from rusting again?
Use it
A couple options. Most commonly, WD-40 will do the trick. There is also a lanolin-based product called Fluid Film which is fantastic for preventing rust. Alternatively, one could paint the anvil, either with a colored industrial enamel, or just with a clear enamel. The clear enamel would be barely noticeable, and would definitely keep it looking shiny. They will develop a patina over time, but provided they are kept indoors, anvils wont rust away. Thanks for the comment
Most experienced smiths will say just a light oil rub. Boiled linseed oil, mystery oil - doesn’t matter too much. If you use it regularly, the face, step and horn will stay clean enough.