Thanks for sharing! I’d like to make some suggestions for viewers that might use this as a tutorial: Notice how the inside of the cabinet is filthy. This is an important clue. If it’s greasy (looks like it is) that usually means that water is seeping into your transmission and it will soon seize. You’ll do good to address that sooner rather than later (yes which means you’ll do good to rebuild and re grease that transmission). Also, once everything is apart, it’s a good idea to replace the lower bearing and the brake package too (especially on these orbitals) because these will be your next fail points. When screwing on the mounting stem, make sure to re-torque it nice and tight with the spanner wrench. It’s helpful to make a mark on the tub so you’ll know where the Allen screw screws into the transmission. Whatever you do, don’t screw the Allen screw into the recess grooves. Look for the notches on the transmission shaft before hand, and make a mark on the tub so you’ll know where the Allen screw sets. Re-torque everything nice and tight with the spanner wrench. It IS a good idea to replace the damper pads at this time, but don’t forget to lubricate them. I’d recommend changing these bearings and seals (including the lower bearing) about every 10 years or so and this washer should last a lifetime. One last thing, whatever you do, DO NOT throw this machine away. Manufacturers are for bidden to make washing machines like this now so just know that you will never see this level of quality and craftsmanship again. Believe me, it’s cheaper to keep her. 💯
One more thing, In the top of the mounting stem there is a rubber seal around the agitator shaft. That rubber seal is supposed to have a washer pressing it down and a locking clip to hold it in place. This seal keeps water out of the transmission, but only if it’s pressed in by the washer.
RedZone, Your very welcome. The video is kind of long but you can find an answer or answers to your washer Repair project. Hope it helps Thanks for watching
Unfortunately, I have searched and searched, my 18 year old Maytag at all the parts vendors say no longer available for the boot and seal for my model. I have fixed it many times over the years and planned on continuing doing so, but didn't count on them forcing me to buy new by not making more parts.
Hey Randy, I understand your frustration. I found after market parts that work and are readily available, in California and Texas. Parts may not be the same in model or serial number but you'll need to do some research. It's worth it units today are garbage and very expensive. Thanks for the comment and for watching this video
Mark, thank you! I know it's a long video but hopefully one can use this video as a reference. Thanks again for watching and for the positive feedback. Good luck on your repairs.
I picked up a free Maytag LAT8415AAE washer (very similar to yours), the motor runs great when Tub Belt is removed but smokes and overheats (setting off thermal protector) when belt is connected. It will spin tub empty but if there is any water (weight) in it the motor overheats. I don't want to blame the motor right away without checking for other sources of excessive friction (no weird knocking or squealing)I don't understand how the Brake works. Maybe the Tub bearing? Anyways your video helped a lot I enjoy working on appliances and I learn quickly from visual education.
That's great Albatross, These washers are bullet proof and are not difficult to work on once you figure out the theory on how they work. Remember the transmission is a big part of the working components. Thanks for watching and Thanks for the positive feedback. 😀
Did you check the transmission? A lot of times water will get in the transmission and it will eventually seize. Look for signs of oil being flung around the inside of the cabinet or oil leaking under the machine. Hope that helps.
I have the same problem on mine. It will agitate just fine but when the spin cycle starts, it will spin a few times and then quit, I guess setting off the thermal protector, i smell electrical burn. Once it cools down, I try it again and the same thing, spins a few times and quits. I replaced the break, and it did not help. I can freely spin the belt both ways and see that the transmission is not seized. Did you fix yours?
@@gregh5787Sometimes the motor run then shuts down when it overheats then when cooled down starts. You could help the spin cycle to turn with hand and see if it starts. Mine done that. Replaced the motor and working ever since.
Hey Creater Nater, The tub has a rubber compression seal for the water. The transmission has a shaft that comes from below and has a bushing seal . Everything else is fixed, Fastened to the shaft with a cork mount and a rubber boot. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the positive comment and for watching my video.
My 20 year old Maytag Atlantis washer started to make this noise when it spins. Is it an expensive repair and is it worth it, i was told they don’t make parts for them anymore. Other than that my machine is in top notch condition and still going strong. Should I get a Speed Queen if it dies ? Greetings from Australia 🇦🇺
I wonder which model you have, in back top should find a ID plate. It's not too old of a machine, I've repaired Atlantis units before. Parts (Are available) not sure of pricing in your area but for the unit in my video, I spent $65 to under $100 on parts new. This washing machine is still working in spite of washing 3 times a week. Great Machines! Hope this helps thanks again for watching and for the comment.
Antonio, Si vale la pena, por que estas lavadoras son muy buenas. 2000 pesos a comprar una nueva que no funcionan bien, y no tiene remadio si se descompone y sobre todo partes muy caras. Es mi opinion, grasias por el comentario y por mirar mi video.
is the bell housing supposed to spin when engaged? Mine is agitating, but when the spin cycle start it only goes a few seconds and then shuts off. Not sure if I have a bad bearing, motor, or lower bearing. I'm almost ready to trash it.
Hey Greg, not sure, but, I think you may check for something loose under like a nut or pully keeper if the motor is running. It is going really fast at spin and things may appear to be serious. The door switch sometimes switch off at vibration. These units are not complicated, be patient do not trash it, you will find the answer. With out being there hard for me to diagnose. Good luck, thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for sharing! I’d like to make some suggestions for viewers that might use this as a tutorial: Notice how the inside of the cabinet is filthy. This is an important clue. If it’s greasy (looks like it is) that usually means that water is seeping into your transmission and it will soon seize. You’ll do good to address that sooner rather than later (yes which means you’ll do good to rebuild and re grease that transmission). Also, once everything is apart, it’s a good idea to replace the lower bearing and the brake package too (especially on these orbitals) because these will be your next fail points.
When screwing on the mounting stem, make sure to re-torque it nice and tight with the spanner wrench. It’s helpful to make a mark on the tub so you’ll know where the Allen screw screws into the transmission. Whatever you do, don’t screw the Allen screw into the recess grooves. Look for the notches on the transmission shaft before hand, and make a mark on the tub so you’ll know where the Allen screw sets. Re-torque everything nice and tight with the spanner wrench.
It IS a good idea to replace the damper pads at this time, but don’t forget to lubricate them.
I’d recommend changing these bearings and seals (including the lower bearing) about every 10 years or so and this washer should last a lifetime. One last thing, whatever you do, DO NOT throw this machine away. Manufacturers are for bidden to make washing machines like this now so just know that you will never see this level of quality and craftsmanship again. Believe me, it’s cheaper to keep her. 💯
One more thing, In the top of the mounting stem there is a rubber seal around the agitator shaft. That rubber seal is supposed to have a washer pressing it down and a locking clip to hold it in place. This seal keeps water out of the transmission, but only if it’s pressed in by the washer.
Great job explaining each step very well done. Thanks!!
I'm glad it can help as a reference for this particular repair. Thanks for watching and for the positive comment
Great job on a fantastic Washer keep that going cause what's out there now is worthless.
Peter you are so right about what's out there. Thanks for the positive comment and for watching my video.
Thank you for actually showing be noise before the repair !
RedZone, Your very welcome. The video is kind of long but you can find an answer or answers to your washer Repair project. Hope it helps
Thanks for watching
Unfortunately, I have searched and searched, my 18 year old Maytag at all the parts vendors say no longer available for the boot and seal for my model. I have fixed it many times over the years and planned on continuing doing so, but didn't count on them forcing me to buy new by not making more parts.
Hey Randy,
I understand your frustration. I found after market parts that work and are readily available, in California and Texas. Parts may not be the same in model or serial number but you'll need to do some research. It's worth it units today are garbage and very expensive.
Thanks for the comment and for watching this video
Excellent video, very informative!
Mark, thank you! I know it's a long video but hopefully one can use this video as a reference. Thanks again for watching and for the positive feedback. Good luck on your repairs.
I picked up a free Maytag LAT8415AAE washer (very similar to yours), the motor runs great when Tub Belt is removed but smokes and overheats (setting off thermal protector) when belt is connected. It will spin tub empty but if there is any water (weight) in it the motor overheats. I don't want to blame the motor right away without checking for other sources of excessive friction (no weird knocking or squealing)I don't understand how the Brake works. Maybe the Tub bearing?
Anyways your video helped a lot I enjoy working on appliances and I learn quickly from visual education.
That's great Albatross,
These washers are bullet proof and are not difficult to work on once you figure out the theory on how they work. Remember the transmission is a big part of the working components.
Thanks for watching and Thanks for the positive feedback. 😀
Did you check the transmission? A lot of times water will get in the transmission and it will eventually seize. Look for signs of oil being flung around the inside of the cabinet or oil leaking under the machine. Hope that helps.
I have the same problem on mine. It will agitate just fine but when the spin cycle starts, it will spin a few times and then quit, I guess setting off the thermal protector, i smell electrical burn. Once it cools down, I try it again and the same thing, spins a few times and quits. I replaced the break, and it did not help. I can freely spin the belt both ways and see that the transmission is not seized. Did you fix yours?
@@gregh5787Sometimes the motor run then shuts down when it overheats then when cooled down starts. You could help the spin cycle to turn with hand and see if it starts. Mine done that. Replaced the motor and working ever since.
Great video! Was there a bearing in the stem kit? Is it just bushings, and seals? Maybe I zoned out.
Hey Creater Nater,
The tub has a rubber compression seal for the water. The transmission has a shaft that comes from below and has a bushing seal .
Everything else is fixed, Fastened to the shaft with a cork mount and a rubber boot. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for the positive comment and for watching my video.
My 20 year old Maytag Atlantis washer started to make this noise when it spins.
Is it an expensive repair and is it worth it, i was told they don’t make parts for them anymore.
Other than that my machine is in top notch condition and still going strong.
Should I get a Speed Queen if it dies ?
Greetings from Australia 🇦🇺
I wonder which model you have, in back top should find a ID plate.
It's not too old of a machine, I've repaired Atlantis units before. Parts (Are available) not sure of pricing in your area but for the unit in my video, I spent $65 to under $100 on parts new. This washing machine is still working in spite of washing 3 times a week. Great Machines!
Hope this helps thanks again for watching and for the comment.
@@geniusyaqui1916
It’s a MAV9750AGW
I LOVE THE STYLE OF THE LID AND THE BUTTONS!
Hope the service man can get the parts and repair it.
Vale la pena reparala ? Ya que el kit cuesta mas de 2000 pesos
Antonio, Si vale la pena, por que estas lavadoras son muy buenas. 2000 pesos a comprar una nueva que no funcionan bien, y no tiene remadio si se descompone y sobre todo partes muy caras.
Es mi opinion, grasias por el comentario y por mirar mi video.
Es que con 2000 no vas a comprar nada mejor invierteselo
Si, asi es el show.
No rinden los pesos y sobre todo compras Nuevo tampoco aguanta
is the bell housing supposed to spin when engaged? Mine is agitating, but when the spin cycle start it only goes a few seconds and then shuts off. Not sure if I have a bad bearing, motor, or lower bearing. I'm almost ready to trash it.
Hey Greg, not sure, but, I think you may check for something loose under like a nut or pully keeper if the motor is running. It is going really fast at spin and things may appear to be serious. The door switch sometimes switch off at vibration. These units are not complicated, be patient do not trash it, you will find the answer. With out being there hard for me to diagnose. Good luck, thanks for the comment 👍
Muy ilustrativo
Grasias Silvestre, ojala que le clarifice y le ayude en su reparasion. Grasias por el comentario y por mirar el video.