988 Tire Changer (950 with 2 helper arms) Deliveries require a forklift to unload OR pay for Residential delivery + $150 For clarification the 560 is the smaller unit up to about 18” rims has the square tube rear upright and requires assembly of the bead breaker. The 950 is the larger up to 22” rims, has the “Bead Blaster” and main rear upright is a round cylinder air tank. There's also the options of the 2 helper arms the #232 unit making the #988 unit and the other 300 with the black additional upright with 2 arms on it with a disk, the #300 unit making the #960. The Mayflower 988/680 pair can fit tight in a space about 80” wide IF the Balancer is turned sideways so shaft is out facing you. Other arm options will need more space. The 988 (950 changer with 2 extra arms) is about 45” deep. I used casters on the 988(950+ extras), Harbor Freight #62276 3” locking 100lb. NEED (QTY 8) regular 1/2”-20 nuts (ORDER or get at a regular hardware store. Home stores don't stock them but can order some). Unit is at or over the max weight of the casters so user beware. Remove rubber foot on bottom, just pops out. Install 1 nut all the way down on caster then insert up through hole and install 2nd. Caster shaft needs a spacer so could use 1/2” flat washers too instead of the first nut. Foot bracket is upside down U channel. 1 Upgrade I added was a 1/4” NPT street elbow to the main airline input on the regulator after removing the factory Japanese style fitting the US doesn't use. That allows the air hose to hang down when connected instead of straight out the back. Then used a 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” hose barb to a 6' section of hose for a whip to move the connection out where it's convenient. That way it's easy to connect when using. Then I added a 1/4” NPT quarter turn valve so machine can be disconnected without losing all air pressure in case air supply line is needed etc. Another upgrade I did was added a higher volume airline. The “Bead Blaster” is almost a joke and SLOW. If you see the size of airline and the regulator it runs through you'll understand. I've seen a few add a line at the Regulator. That technically does work but doesn't have the flow capacity I desired. So I added a line to the tank(rear upright). Remove the included Tee for the gauge. Tank bung is 1/4” NPT so I used a Milton s-646 1/4” NPT Hex nipple into the bung using 4 layers of Teflon Tape on all connections. Then I used a Milton s-655 Brass 1/4” NPT Tee which has 3 Female fittings. One end screws onto the previous nipple so the middle connection is centered and angled down and back a little. The included Tank gauge Tee then screws into the other end of the new Tee. Then the middle is a port for a new hose to connect Using a male 1/4” NPT fitting like Milton s-602 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” ID hose barb and a hose clamp etc. I cut about an 8' chunk of another 3/8” ID air hose. I strongly suggest not using 1/4” hose. Then a quick connect fitting on the end. I use and highly recommend the High Flow Milton Type V couplers. You can use a regular air chuck or make a little bead blaster that runs way better. Use a quick connect fitting then a quarter turn 1/4” valve then a short section of hose and an air chuck that locks on. This is a much higher volume short hose feed off the tank. Smaller and more hose length are restrictions. You can now swap chucks and fill higher psi tires and a higher flow bead blaster. But care must be taken using the new bead blaster as it's got straight tank pressure. So use carefully and once bead pops insert valve and use a gauge to fill properly. 680 Balancer Options/Upgrades Many truck rims will need an additional adapter cone with 5.5” diameter that's sold separately For best results the 680 Balancer, should be anchored to floor. Don't just bolt down unless floor is perfectly level where unit sits. Base is bolted down with (3) 3/8” threaded anchor bolts ideally with 2 1/2” of threads sticking up to level with. Method is below. I wasn't ready to anchor yet so leveled with 3 3/8” x 2 1/2” hex bolt, 6 3/8” flat washers, 6 3/8” nuts. A small thin rubber piece size of a tire patch works good on floor to help keep from walking across floor. Install a nut on the 3/8” bolt approx 1/16” from head of bolt, then a washer. Insert bolt FROM BOTTOM UP through holes on bracket then install 2nd washer and 2nd nut loose, then do same to other 2 holes/bolts. The lowest nut can be adjusted up and down to raise and lower the machine bracket sitting on it. Use a 2nd wrench as needed to hold the hex head while adjusting nut up/down. Use a 24” level on the side of the case to adjust till plumb side to side and front to back. Don't use the plastic tray on top, there's no way to know if it's level to anything. Use the base sides. Then when height is good tighten down the top nut to keep height. 1 wrench holding bolt head 2nd on top nut tightening. Essentially the machine bracket is sandwiched between 2 washers with a nut on top and below. Parking lot light posts are mounted similar for reference except threaded rods are in concrete. As the concrete anchors should be to secure it.
Ok, the first thing you did wrong was you programed it for a steek wheel... The 3 choices on the bottom are for aluminum wheels. The top 2 are for steel wheels. So you might want to check your wheels. Good luck
Not sure about that one. I’ve been balancing wheels like this for the past 3 years (cars and trucks) and haven’t had any issues yet. Speeds up to 150mph with no problems yet (hellcats, supras, pontiac g8gt).
The only difference is weight placement, the "alloy" settings just have more options for the balancing weights compared to the steel options. That said, he only did a static balance (that's why the one display read "STA"), not a dynamic balance. In theory he should be putting the weights as close to centerline as possible for a static balance, and static is not as good as dynamic.
If you balance a tire, then take it off the balancer and put it right back on, does it show a good balance still? I am thinking of getting one of these for my own personal use.
@@joeszucs2190 I tested this on Goodyear, Firestone,cooper,travelstar,Starfire, Michelin,and vercellis Strada 1 and 2. I did the tests bud but you can believe whatever you'd like to. Oh I also tested this on omni trail and ultra cart trailer tires.
@@madmike225 those are not the applications it matters this matters when you are putting uhp and star compound track tires on a set of work wheels where ever OZ matters.
I think it should do dually wheels. It did wheels for my Lb7 duramax and a buddies dodge ram 3500 so I’d safely assume you’re good to go. Otherwise you could alway buy and return from Amazon if it doesn’t work out for you.
Does anyone know why the balancer keeps giving me outrages weights to place? I’m not sure what’s going on. I tried calibrating it with a 15R tire and followed the steps. Once done it will tell me to put weights of over 6 ounces. Then when I change the tires to the one I actually want to to balance it goes to 6 or 9 ounces. At times it wobbles. Heard it can because of measurement or the tightening of the screw. Tried both, and only tightening it sometimes fixes it.
I’ve used it alot on wheels with larger center bores, mainly truck/SUV wheels. Like the wheels on my Duramax, my buddies Cummins and on my LX470, the center bore is very large and the biggest cone they provide with the balancer isn’t big enough for them.
I always do. Alot of shops sometimes don’t balance the rears which i feel is very lazy on them. You could get away without balancing rears but i think it depends on the tires/wheels. If you drive with a bottle of water in your center cup holder and notice it shaking alot or feel vibrations possibly in your back that’s a good indicator that your rears probably need to be balanced but to each their own. It’s more convenient for when you go to rotate your tires (if you’re non-staggered) as well!
Still running solid till today. I use it at least 2x a month. I have a buddy who liked it so much that he bought a set for his mechanic shop. For the price, you can’t beat it!
Not sure to be honest. Let me know what the solution to your problem was if you did end up fixing it, just incase if I ever have to deal with that error.
I haven’t needed to calibrate yet but I believe it’s a specific size wheel if i can recall. Not 100% sure though. Just make sure your balancer is bolted to a solid surface as well!
Dang Ive been doing it wrong all these years. Why are all the cars driving smoothly afterwards though? Mind sharing some additional information on this? This video was done when I first got the machine, I could redo it. Thanks for the input.
@@MJAltairy Mayflower video to calibrate ruclips.net/video/2iRa-VpjJak/видео.html&ab_channel=MayflowerAutoEquipments Also, it's true you are only doing static balances (balancing across the diameter of the tire). The dynamic balance corrects for the balance across the width of the wheel. I believe the reason you never feel an issue is because a tire balance has to be way out to feel it at the steering wheel. BTW My balancer did come with a 100 gram weight and it must be used on a 15" steel wheel between 6 and 6.5" wide with a mounted tire, then use the video to calibrate the machine. Your videos on the Mayflower are awesome and have helped me learn a lot when I set my machines up, Thanks!
Didn't calibrate it out of the box. For an initial check, I just went ahead and threw a set of wheels on the machine then took the car for a drive and it drove smooth at all speeds. I've been using the machine for several years now and have blanaced hundreds of wheels by now with no issues.
Great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video, you explain it perfectly.
Thank you! Appreciate the support!
988 Tire Changer (950 with 2 helper arms) Deliveries require a forklift to unload OR pay for Residential delivery + $150
For clarification the 560 is the smaller unit up to about 18” rims has the square tube rear upright and requires assembly of the bead breaker.
The 950 is the larger up to 22” rims, has the “Bead Blaster” and main rear upright is a round cylinder air tank. There's also the options of the 2 helper arms the #232 unit making the #988 unit and the other 300 with the black additional upright with 2 arms on it with a disk, the #300 unit making the #960.
The Mayflower 988/680 pair can fit tight in a space about 80” wide IF the Balancer is turned sideways so shaft is out facing you. Other arm options will need more space. The 988 (950 changer with 2 extra arms) is about 45” deep.
I used casters on the 988(950+ extras), Harbor Freight #62276 3” locking 100lb. NEED (QTY 8) regular 1/2”-20 nuts (ORDER or get at a regular hardware store. Home stores don't stock them but can order some). Unit is at or over the max weight of the casters so user beware. Remove rubber foot on bottom, just pops out. Install 1 nut all the way down on caster then insert up through hole and install 2nd. Caster shaft needs a spacer so could use 1/2” flat washers too instead of the first nut. Foot bracket is upside down U channel.
1 Upgrade I added was a 1/4” NPT street elbow to the main airline input on the regulator after removing the factory Japanese style fitting the US doesn't use. That allows the air hose to hang down when connected instead of straight out the back. Then used a 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” hose barb to a 6' section of hose for a whip to move the connection out where it's convenient. That way it's easy to connect when using. Then I added a 1/4” NPT quarter turn valve so machine can be disconnected without losing all air pressure in case air supply line is needed etc.
Another upgrade I did was added a higher volume airline. The “Bead Blaster” is almost a joke and SLOW. If you see the size of airline and the regulator it runs through you'll understand. I've seen a few add a line at the Regulator. That technically does work but doesn't have the flow capacity I desired. So I added a line to the tank(rear upright). Remove the included Tee for the gauge. Tank bung is 1/4” NPT so I used a Milton s-646 1/4” NPT Hex nipple into the bung using 4 layers of Teflon Tape on all connections. Then I used a Milton s-655 Brass 1/4” NPT Tee which has 3 Female fittings. One end screws onto the previous nipple so the middle connection is centered and angled down and back a little. The included Tank gauge Tee then screws into the other end of the new Tee. Then the middle is a port for a new hose to connect Using a male 1/4” NPT fitting like Milton s-602 1/4” male NPT to 3/8” ID hose barb and a hose clamp etc. I cut about an 8' chunk of another 3/8” ID air hose. I strongly suggest not using 1/4” hose. Then a quick connect fitting on the end. I use and highly recommend the High Flow Milton Type V couplers. You can use a regular air chuck or make a little bead blaster that runs way better. Use a quick connect fitting then a quarter turn 1/4” valve then a short section of hose and an air chuck that locks on. This is a much higher volume short hose feed off the tank. Smaller and more hose length are restrictions. You can now swap chucks and fill higher psi tires and a higher flow bead blaster. But care must be taken using the new bead blaster as it's got straight tank pressure. So use carefully and once bead pops insert valve and use a gauge to fill properly.
680 Balancer Options/Upgrades
Many truck rims will need an additional adapter cone with 5.5” diameter that's sold separately
For best results the 680 Balancer, should be anchored to floor. Don't just bolt down unless floor is perfectly level where unit sits. Base is bolted down with (3) 3/8” threaded anchor bolts ideally with 2 1/2” of threads sticking up to level with. Method is below. I wasn't ready to anchor yet so leveled with 3 3/8” x 2 1/2” hex bolt, 6 3/8” flat washers, 6 3/8” nuts. A small thin rubber piece size of a tire patch works good on floor to help keep from walking across floor.
Install a nut on the 3/8” bolt approx 1/16” from head of bolt, then a washer. Insert bolt FROM BOTTOM UP through holes on bracket then install 2nd washer and 2nd nut loose, then do same to other 2 holes/bolts. The lowest nut can be adjusted up and down to raise and lower the machine bracket sitting on it. Use a 2nd wrench as needed to hold the hex head while adjusting nut up/down. Use a 24” level on the side of the case to adjust till plumb side to side and front to back. Don't use the plastic tray on top, there's no way to know if it's level to anything. Use the base sides. Then when height is good tighten down the top nut to keep height. 1 wrench holding bolt head 2nd on top nut tightening. Essentially the machine bracket is sandwiched between 2 washers with a nut on top and below. Parking lot light posts are mounted similar for reference except threaded rods are in concrete. As the concrete anchors should be to secure it.
Thanks. You provided some great details
Useful, thank you
Does it have single and dual plane balance?
Ok, the first thing you did wrong was you programed it for a steek wheel... The 3 choices on the bottom are for aluminum wheels. The top 2 are for steel wheels. So you might want to check your wheels. Good luck
Not sure about that one. I’ve been balancing wheels like this for the past 3 years (cars and trucks) and haven’t had any issues yet. Speeds up to 150mph with no problems yet (hellcats, supras, pontiac g8gt).
The only difference is weight placement, the "alloy" settings just have more options for the balancing weights compared to the steel options.
That said, he only did a static balance (that's why the one display read "STA"), not a dynamic balance. In theory he should be putting the weights as close to centerline as possible for a static balance, and static is not as good as dynamic.
@@Firebat45 Absolutely correct. I have a Cemb machine and if you go into the fine resolution to
How come your not alu1 setting for stick on weights? Or I’m just crazy
Gracias señor 👍🏼
If you balance a tire, then take it off the balancer and put it right back on, does it show a good balance still? I am thinking of getting one of these for my own personal use.
Yea I’ve actually tried this multiple times in the past to make sure my machine is still good. Gives the same results every single time.
@@MJAltairy great, thanks for the feedback.
O the wheel alone. Mark heavy spot. Install tire heavy spot paint dot 180* out of heavy spot of wheel.
Will have to try this next time!
Not true,we tried this on 25 tires at our shop and they were all still off balance by a decent amount.
@@madmike225 buy better wheels and tires then.
@@joeszucs2190 I tested this on Goodyear, Firestone,cooper,travelstar,Starfire, Michelin,and vercellis Strada 1 and 2. I did the tests bud but you can believe whatever you'd like to. Oh I also tested this on omni trail and ultra cart trailer tires.
@@madmike225 those are not the applications it matters this matters when you are putting uhp and star compound track tires on a set of work wheels where ever OZ matters.
Do you know if the large cone you have listed will do dually wheels and if anything else is needed? Thanks in advance.
I think it should do dually wheels. It did wheels for my Lb7 duramax and a buddies dodge ram 3500 so I’d safely assume you’re good to go. Otherwise you could alway buy and return from Amazon if it doesn’t work out for you.
Thank fo the info. Does it matters if you put the cone on the inside the rim or the outside like you did?
No it shouldn’t as long as you have the rim seated tightly on the cone and against the base of the wheel balancer rod base
Hey do you always balance in static
Mode vs dynamic do you find a difference between the 2 modes?
Does anyone know why the balancer keeps giving me outrages weights to place? I’m not sure what’s going on. I tried calibrating it with a 15R tire and followed the steps. Once done it will tell me to put weights of over 6 ounces. Then when I change the tires to the one I actually want to to balance it goes to 6 or 9 ounces. At times it wobbles. Heard it can because of measurement or the tightening of the screw. Tried both, and only tightening it sometimes fixes it.
What wheels/tires do you use the large cone that you bought separately? Been thinking of buying it just in case.
I’ve used it alot on wheels with larger center bores, mainly truck/SUV wheels. Like the wheels on my Duramax, my buddies Cummins and on my LX470, the center bore is very large and the biggest cone they provide with the balancer isn’t big enough for them.
@@MJAltairy Good to know. Thanks.
@@jjrock5 anytime!
Chevy Duramax 8 lug's 👍🏻
Quick question?? Is it really needed to balance rear wheels? On rear wheel drive cars
I always do. Alot of shops sometimes don’t balance the rears which i feel is very lazy on them. You could get away without balancing rears but i think it depends on the tires/wheels. If you drive with a bottle of water in your center cup holder and notice it shaking alot or feel vibrations possibly in your back that’s a good indicator that your rears probably need to be balanced but to each their own.
It’s more convenient for when you go to rotate your tires (if you’re non-staggered) as well!
Would you recommend buying this balancer? Been looking at Coats but it’s pretty expensive
I’ve been using it for a few years now with no issues. I’d definitely buy it again if I needed to.
@@MJAltairy cheers brother
How’s the wheel balancer holding up I’m thinking about getting one. Also how often are you using it just curious if it can handle daily use
Still running solid till today. I use it at least 2x a month. I have a buddy who liked it so much that he bought a set for his mechanic shop. For the price, you can’t beat it!
Excellent! How’s the balancer? Buy again?
I’ve had it for 3 years so far, still use it often and would definitely buy again if I needed to!
What does error code 1 mean?
Not sure to be honest. Let me know what the solution to your problem was if you did end up fixing it, just incase if I ever have to deal with that error.
What’s the biggest rim you but on the machine
20x12 is the biggest rim I’ve balanced on this machine.
I just bought the 960 tire changer 2 days again hoping it will do a 22 inch rim. I didn’t know they made the 980 machine until just now
Can the machine be changed from Ounces to Grams and vice versa? If so how is this done?
Never mind I found it in a manual
I also kinda cover it at 2:09
Thank you for your videos. You have a new subscriber here! Keep it up brotha.
Can u calabt with any size tire
I haven’t needed to calibrate yet but I believe it’s a specific size wheel if i can recall. Not 100% sure though. Just make sure your balancer is bolted to a solid surface as well!
on my mayflower 800 it calls for a steel 15 inch wheel to calibrate it and the 100 gram wheel weight that came with the balancer
@@robertkowal323 hmmm I don’t recall receiving any weights with my balancer. Might have to look into that
Why would you static balance that ! And sticky weights should be applied with a heat gun ! Smh
Your not using the Safety Guard.
Haha This is so wrong, you have to do it dynamic. you only use static for motorbikes or rims under 2,5"
Dang Ive been doing it wrong all these years. Why are all the cars driving smoothly afterwards though?
Mind sharing some additional information on this? This video was done when I first got the machine, I could redo it. Thanks for the input.
@@MJAltairy Mayflower video to calibrate ruclips.net/video/2iRa-VpjJak/видео.html&ab_channel=MayflowerAutoEquipments
Also, it's true you are only doing static balances (balancing across the diameter of the tire). The dynamic balance corrects for the balance across the width of the wheel. I believe the reason you never feel an issue is because a tire balance has to be way out to feel it at the steering wheel. BTW My balancer did come with a 100 gram weight and it must be used on a 15" steel wheel between 6 and 6.5" wide with a mounted tire, then use the video to calibrate the machine.
Your videos on the Mayflower are awesome and have helped me learn a lot when I set my machines up, Thanks!
@@philburke1902 appreciate the feedback! I guess i stand corrected. Always down to learn more!
It's not the "correct" way. But you can totally static balance almost anything. I don't tape weights unless I absolutely have to.
Nice review. Thanks.
Did you calibrate the machine when you first got it ?
How do you know if it is calibrated correctly?
Didn't calibrate it out of the box. For an initial check, I just went ahead and threw a set of wheels on the machine then took the car for a drive and it drove smooth at all speeds. I've been using the machine for several years now and have blanaced hundreds of wheels by now with no issues.