I’ve ran m18 fuels for a few years and they’ve out performed anything else I’ve used! Finally broke down and just bought a 12v fuel set which is why I am watching this. This video is a perfect example of using the right tool for the job. 18v is good for install, 12v is more convenient for service and repair! Just my opinion as an electrician who’s worked in residential, commercial and industrial settings.
Bingo. I'm in residential HVAC service and the M12 line serves me well in SO many situations working in tight quarters. IMO, M18 is great for commercial and residential install.
So as an electrician myself. I am asking what you mean by the m18 is better for installs? Obviously useful for drilling wood studs, unibits, and large holes. However, in steel stud for the application of boxing, strapping, and even half inch holes with twist bits I think the m12 is more than powerful enough.
I use makita 18V and milwaukee m12 at work as a door installer. No doubt 18V tools are stronger than M12. But the M12 tools are overpriced and some of them are even more expensive than the 18V makita
I too was laughed at the jobsite. No almost everyone I know has M 12. From there a little SDS setting air conditioners to impact driving screws to compact bandsaw cutting strut. They are more than powerful enough for most work and they are so much lighter hanging off your toolbelt or working overhead. Yes I have a super Sawzall and an M 18 super hole hog. Sometimes you need bigger heavy duty to but most of the time you don’t
@@kconnor2371 this was my thinking, ppl make fun of ya till their shoulders arent as worn down at the end of the day from not having 5lb of tool over their head
This is painful to watch when the guy doesn't know to manually tighten and lock the chuck. Having said that, I own a large amount of M12 tools and Makita 18V. There is a HUGE difference in power once you start going over any bits that are half inch.
LOL make me laugh, with all that best tool behind him, not surprise he cut his hand seeing that he don't know how to tighten even the bit, hope that bit not strike him, like saw.
Lol at work I tested both and you’re exactly on point, anything over an inch is basically not going to go well. Just get the m18 for anything over 1/2-3/4
These 12v drills are perfect for carrying under a house as a plumber to hang straps for drain lines etc. Super convenient and lightweight when having to drive screws laying on your back or stomach
I have M12 tools, I got them for the smaller size and ease of handling. If I needed the added power of the M18, I use a plug in tool. I have the impact driver, hammer drill, reciprocating saw, multi tool, 3/8 ratchet and 3/8 impact wrench. They have been great tools, very ergonomic and reliable.
While I won’t argue that 18v is more powerful, I’m an electrician and I use m12 impact and drill at work every single day. Serves my needs just fine. About the only thing I really need an 18v drill for is hole saws. I run the surge impact though because it’s a lot easier on the ears. It crazy how much quieter the hammer is on it.
I'm a cable guy, so I'm driving screws to hold up wires, occasionally drilling into concrete for small anchors, etc. I've been carrying around an M18 on my belt but it's getting a bit heavy...I think I'll do the M12! It's incredibly powerful for being so much smaller.
Got an M12 5o replace an M18 that someone stole off my site. They were out of 18's at Depot when I went. Had no idea there was a push button to change speeds on top of the M12 impact driver. I thought it straight sucked at first, and let it bounce around in the truck for a few days. It changed the speed to 3 and I was stunned...then realized there was a light on top of it with a button...such an idiot. Great power, and the batteries are nice to have for my jacket during colder days.
Cable guy as well. Honestly the only thing I break out the M18 for is hammer drilling 3/8"-1/2" holes in stone/concrete/brick walls, I live in an area with a lot of old farm houses with river rock and heavy stone foundations, or any hole needing to be longer than 6" (and even with this if they made 7/16" bell hanger bits that were 12" long with a 1/4" hex drive I'd use those with the M12). Everything else can be done with the M12 impact driver. Screw clips? M12 Impact. Wall plates? M12 impact with replacement screws (because he ones that come with wall plates are trash, I mean seriously who decided on slotted screws that strip after the most miniscule amount of force?). Anchor holes in literally anything? M12 impact with a 1/4" multimaterial bit. That M12 impact has replaced my old beat up Ryobi electric screwdriver, my M18 impact, and my M18 hammer drill (for specific applications). This is all with the 2A battery too, I have a 4A but I just find I don't need it and the 2A fits in places better. I mean who wants to be carrying an M18 up 20-28' to drill a pilot hole for an anchor or drive in a few screws? I don't anymore. M12 fits in the pouch with my other tools so I don't have to worry about missing the clip and I'm not fiddling with chucks and bits up top in wind, rain, and all other kinds of crap. It was easily the investment I appreciated the most. I'm tempted to try using the M12 hammer drill for the larger holes, but just don't know if it'll have the grunt to drive a 26"x1/2" masonry bit through a stone foundation.
Great video but when you tighten down Milwaukee chucks don’t hold it and spin the drill to tighten it, that’s why your bits kept falling out if you spin the chuck by hand with the drill off there is a ratcheting system that gets the chuck super tight. On a side note the m12 is great for light duty but for large paddle bits and hole saws the m18 is the top dog
WRONG. Turning the chuck back until it clicks UNLOCKS IT. Go watch AvE's video about this, he breaks down the patent drawings and everything. STOP PERPETUATING THIS MYTH. IT DAMAGES CHUCKS.
@@leaf5073 nope. That's incorrect. The locking system is true, you can fell it cam over when you twist the chuck back. That's locking the jaws. I've spoken to Milwaukee repair agents and they confirmed this. I trust them more than a guy on RUclips
I found that with the 18v. The cheaper bits do not hold up. I drill into a lot of masonry to mount anchors. I have found that when I first got it, I was destroying the tips off the bits. It has so much more torque and speed. The bits where glowing red hot and broke the masonry bit ears right off. Great drill and impact set. I am so glad they have improved to this point. The first tools were so under powered. The most popular tool was the Makita drill. They were hard to kill. We had to carry a Milwaukee corded hammer drill to back it up for the tough drilling. We did beat them pretty hard also. I have always like the corded drills. Now it seems they have worked out the bugs over the years. They are a great set. Would recommend to anyone on the fence. Since we use ours every day for work. I actually use both a hammer drill and a standard drill on some projects together. This helps to keep from changing bits and cuts down on time. They have become more job specific with the battery setup. Keeps down on the weight for handling the tool all day. I keep some of the 1.5ah batteries for that. Which is nice for the flashlight also. I have found it helpful to have a variety of batteries. I currently carry 1.5, 3 and 5 ah batteries. I have two of each with two chargers. I have not run out of charged batteries on a project yet and help so keep them charging quickly. The tools are well worth the money.
@asdrubale bisanzio Hey guys! Name something that is better than FREE? We are offering FREE products including oscillating tool blades to talented people such as yourself to try out our products. All we ask in return is to provide a 4 or 5 star review on Amazon after you’ve tried it! We send you the money including tax to purchase the item on Amazon, and you try it and make the review! It's as simple as that! We have the highest quality and largest selection of adult toys that you won't get enough of! Reply Yes to to proceed.
My M12 Fuel are My Favorites as Well! but got the M18 Fuel for a just in case situation! this is one of my favorite videos on the entire RUclips Platform! Love this video!
TL;DR: More Ah doesn't directly mean more power, but a smaller battery could limit your tool's ability to pull power from the battery. The capacity of a battery doesn't change the power the battery can deliver. HOWEVER, for power tools, a bigger battery usually means more "rows" of batteries. A row consists of a couple of cells that are put in series. This increases the voltage from roughly 3V per cell, to a total of 12V or 18V. Now to add more capacity, you need more cells, but you can't put them in series, since that would increase the voltage, so they put the next row parallel with the previous one. When cells are hooked up parallel, they increase the amperage, which in turn can make your tool more powerful (or really, a smaller battery can make your tool less powerful, the max power is always determined by the tool, not the battery).
To simplify, have three guys of the same size carry the log ten miles or 6 guys of the same size carry the same log the same distance. Not necessarily adding more power, but distributing the load and allowing more work to be done for a longer period of time.
@@RandyMarsh0301 First of all, you're replying to the wrong thing, mr. "expert". Secondly, pre-drilling and a pilot hole are two completely different things. A pilot hole is a thing, pre-drilling is an action. Those can exist side by side. Also, it's not "cAlLeD" a pilot hole, that's just something that some people call it. You can call it a pre-drilled hole, poopsicle, whatever you like. Don't be so pedantic, it's just sad.
@@timderks5960 Wow someone is angry. Are you ok now? You got all that off your chest? Have a Kleenex (or facial tissue if Kleenex offends you) and just breath.
I’m just amazed at how well the M12 compares to almost any 18 or 20 volt tool, especially with the 6 amp battery. By the way, the 6 amp battery provides more power in most cases.
TL;DR most modern power tools - bigger battery more power ! most modern power tools do get more power with higher capacity batteries, lithium cells have a Discharge Rate usually specified in C, say the cell is 1.5Ah and discharge rate of 1C, you can pull 1.5Ah x 1C=1.5A from the cell, say its 20C, you can pull 1.5Ah x 20C = 30A from the cell, then you add more cells in parallel (increasing the battery capacity) say instead of 1 row you put 3 in parallel it triples the current you can pull from the battery, meaning you can pull 60A (with previous example) and this counts. tools an batteries have electronics in them monitoring the currents and voltage to protect the tool and the battery, so if the m12 shuts off when it binds its because the 2Ah battery told it to cut the power because it cant provide more current, the 6Ah battery would of had 3 times the limit of the 2Ah, of course you need to take into consideration the amount of current the tools motor can handle, that why the tool and the battery constantly "talking to each other", this is why its very important to match a tool with a battery to get the most out of it, there is a video on youtube of a guy using the m18 12Ah battery on the m18 driver or impact and its just shuts off when he pulls the trigger because the tool is overwhelmed with the amount of current is gets (also an engineering fault) also bigger batteries are better for battery performance and overheating, when you are really pushing the tool - with bigger battery the battery can push more amps and run cooler.
Man, I've never used the M18 stuff but I LOVE my M12 tools... I'm an accessories fitter at a dealership for 4x4's so I'm working with brand new bolts/screws, the M12 stuff has PLENTY of grunt to deal with the thread locked, factory tightened bolts. Awesome stuff, I've not once thought, hmm I need more powerful tools. ( I use the M12 multi tool, die grinder, 3/8 Stubby, and 1/4 impact driver... and a couple different heated M12 jackets/vests..)
I just bought an M 18 fuel combo kit with a hammer drill and a surge impact along with two batteries a 12 V and 18 V charger and a hard case offer like $220 or so.
I'm no expert, but from my personal experience I can say that the xc batteries (at least on the m12) have more power. You can definitely hear the rpm difference between the two different batteries. My scientific take on this is that because the larger xc batteries have more cells in them, they can distribute the load more evenly between the individual cells, which causes less strain/draw and more rpm due to the amperage draw being more equally distributed. Once again, I have no idea, but it sounds good to me...lol
The load is split between the two sets of cells, therefore there is less voltage drop or 'sag'. So higher voltage, proportional higher current therefore significantly more watts of power.
I love my M12 tools and will buy more !!! I never need to drill inch hole in 4X4 lol... and for lag screws I always pre-dill !!!! You can split wood without pre-drilling. And I use my m12 Stubby anyway.
What I'm buying the M12 for is for tight areas and the m18 for my daily driver. I worked in a shop that made AC units for data centers I always looked down upon m12 but now I see the value! Looking back there's been times where I'd rather sacrifice power for compact multiple times a day for the longest time all I valued was power.
I have several examples of both the M18 and M12, the main difference is power, if I have a simple task I'll use the M12 because of the weight, but when power is required, I'll used the M18... an example was putting long screws into 2x4 stock, the M12 could start the task, but didn't have enough power to force the boards tight, when I switched to the M18, not only did the gap disappear, the screw was counter sunk into the wood.
Whenever my dad gets mad enough at a project he just gets out the corded drill from the 80's. That thing can drive a 3" forstner through hardwood. As long as you can hold on😁.
I do a lot of cabinetry and fine carpentry and for those applications the M12 set has been amazing, I'm even able to get winter rusted lug nuts off the car with the impact gun. Obviously if you're in a more heavy duty type of trade then the M18 set would make more sense, both great tools though!
I have the 18v set it's an impressive beast, to much of a beast for some jobs so just bought the 12v set for lighter/smaller jobs, arriving Thursday, I don't get excited about much but..... I GOT A NEW DRILL COMEING!!! 😃😃😃 ❤ MILWAUKEE From South Wales pembs!
lol, another comment in the archives. Looking around for M12 stuff; figures you have a video for it. My sons (10 and 7), are finally into woodworking, but an 18V Ryobi with a 4ah battery weighs about as much as they do. Time for compact/subcompact. Took the plunge and got an M12 kit (with bonus battery).
@@HAXMAN - but edjumacational, which is the important thing. I mean, not a snowball’s chance in hell I’m letting my sons near bits that big (12 year old daughter, maybe; them, nooooo way), but good to know where the limits appear to be.
🤣 ok this guy is hilarious. His tone the subtle comments ( the sarcasm) but most of all how he goes about everything. A sort of fly by the seat of your pants. Oh , lost a finger there or dam that didn’t work. 😂 Don’t get me wrong. It’s organized and structured. But I find myself laughing a lot. Not at you but with you! ( well, a little bit at you but in a good way.) I mean, let’s face it this is what we are all kinda like isn’t it. Good stuff here ❤😂
6.2 lbs vs 3 lbs... I have both. I use the m12 drill and driver to mount boxes on to concrete block. Those stay on my tool belts but sometimes I need to drill a large 2 inch hole into concrete block. I would not carry around the m18 with 5ah battery on my tool belt. Use the correct size tool for the job.
For daily user, M18 is your choice. Being a non-daily user, I have a full set of M12 torque rachet, drill driver, impact gun for DIY mechanics. M12 Hammer drill will be my choice on top my M12 batteries and charger. Thanks for you guidance, always glove and safety glass.
With the impact ive found drastic difference even driving decl screws using a 2ah vs a 4ah. On the drill not soo much. The m12 fuels are what I grab now and I love em.. im not in the trades etc but they just feel less bulky than my Ridgid/Kobalt 18v counterparts
I have both these sets, like yourself I started with the 12v Fuels and absolutely love them. For most of what I do they are more then powerful enough, however there was a few times where I was pushing them to and yes beyond there limits. So like yourself I upgraded to the 18volt set along with an 18v sawzall. Now I don't think there is a job I do that these tools can't handle.
Lock your chuck the correct way and you will stop losing your bits…tighten all the way, then loosen the chuck 1 ‘click’…you will save your chuck in the long run
love this review! been looking for a comparison in the milkyway 12/18 range for a while.. ive watched lots of reviews but where im domestic sparks im thinking to go m18 combi for hole drilling metal/wood and go m12 impact but also have m18 hammer/chisel drill
I have the M12 fuel set for my job doing apartment maintenance. I love the things. The impact is just a beast. And the hammer drill function on the drill is handy as hell when you need it. It's not on par with the M18 for heavy duty tasks, but it'll do 75 percent of what the M18 will do.
12 volt driver / drills are great up to about a # 6 wood screw and then there just isn't enough torque to handle the larger diameter screws . Fortunately i convinced my wife that i needed both a twelve volt and an 18 . She actually didn't buy my argument but when i started to shake from new tool withdrawals she took pity on me and let me buy both .
If you torque the chuck all the way tight, then back it off so the chuck itself feels like it popped into neutral that locks the bit in place and prevents the bit from breaking loose
Interesting comparison. That 12 volt sucker pretty dam impressive compared to the 18v. Ah of the battery also helps if working on large projects. To me, the 12vs come into thier own on smaller limited space projects. Whereas the higher torque of the 18v whilst good on bigger stuff, can sometimes be too bulky into tight spaces. Another point to add. It does seem, if you worked a 12v like an 18v it may wear out quicker, and long term an 18v may last longer being ever so slightly under-worked compared to the 12v. Couple years ago had to build some wooden scaffolding to fix an elevated frozen sash window. Using a DeWalt 12v with 2ah battery constantly screwing 3" screws approx about 20/30 of them. Battery lasted 20 minutes. The top/end of the drill got so hot couldn't hold it even with gloves lol. Dugga Dugga! Team America; f.... Yeah
I don’t think I realized your name was Adam and I’ve been watching for a couple months now. I don’t know why I’m commenting about it, but it seemed….noteworthy.
Amazing and lovely power tool... I have Milwaukee M12 FPD-0 (Asia version), the power is almost similar to Dewalt DCD7781... It's really small red devil👌🏼🤩
Wattage is actually the unit of power in electricity and is calculated by multiplying the amount of electricity (measured in Ampere or Amp) by the force of electricity (measured in Volt). So W=Amp x Volt. A battery with a force of 12 volt and amount of 3 amp/H electricity produces 36W/Hour of power in total. A 18 Volt battery at 5Amp/Hour produce 90 Watt/hour in total. So more voltage and more Amp produce more power but at the receiving point of the electricity the motor has to be able to use that much power. If the maximum capacity of a tool is to produce the equivalent of 2 Watts per minute, you can add a 5amp/h, 12V battery, the output of the tool is going to be 2 Watt/min only, which can be provided by the 12V and 3 amp/H battery for 12 minutes ... Same if you connect a tool to a 15amp house plug at 110 V or to a 20 Amp plug at 110V, you won't see any difference. If your tool needs 5 amp at 110V to run and 15amp to cut (table saw), you can have a 20 amp plug, it won't change much for your table saw, the 20 amp is only useful if you run another device on the same plug that only needs 5 Amp.
Hey Adam, Do you know the trick to tighten your chuck then back it off until it clicks to lock the chuck? May be helpful for these types of tests in the future. I love your channel. I spend my time watching usually with a huge smile. Keep it up.
@@gianfrancofettuccini nah… it literally doesn’t AvE did a good video on it, showing the design patents and showing why it’s actually unlocking it by turning it back The click is the locking mechanism releasing
I run a set of m18 fuel drivers/drills. The impact driver is awesome. The drill is very powerful but clunky and I've never liked the chuck. I this the m12's are good for about 80% of what I do, and I'm looking to add a set for myself. Very tempting package.
Anyone else notice the 12v 1/2 paddle test involved the 12v going straight into a knot in the 4x4 about 2/3s the way through and slowing... DEFINITELY not a professional test. That snark said, I really do like to see these little guy Vs Big Guy showdowns.
Fun comparison. I also have both M18 and M12 tools. Unless I need big power, I always grab the M12 stuff first. They easily do about 95 percent of what I need a drill or driver to do. They are MUCH more compact and I can carry a LOT more tools in the same box. I noticed you weren't locking the chucks on the drills. They are locking chucks. You can spin them on, but they need to be tightened further for big bits or masonry bits. Then back it of until you fell a click. Then its locked. With batteries, it's the cell count that matters for power. In the M12 line, I believe the 3 and 4ah XC packs have the highest drain rate and produce the most power. They won't last as long as a 6ah, but they let out the pixies faster. This is just a matter of the chemistry and robustness of the cell design.
I have the m12 and the spade bit, I figured it was going to super struggle. Then when you got to the forstner bit Ive had 18volt drills that couldn't handle that in 1st gear.
The whole premie of a paddle bit is that is needs to be held level or evenly in order for it to cut right, if it's crooked, the way your held it in the 12v drill, of course it's not going to work properly. It stops and goes cause it's getting caught by one tooth of the paddle bit and not cutting with both teeth.
I've used M18 drills to mix cement. Full bags in buckets. A drill ran 24 bags of 66 lbs b before getting too hot. A wired 6Amp Ryobi just caught on fire mixing the water for the first cement bag... I wasn't even using brushless motors.
I’ve ran m18 fuels for a few years and they’ve out performed anything else I’ve used! Finally broke down and just bought a 12v fuel set which is why I am watching this. This video is a perfect example of using the right tool for the job. 18v is good for install, 12v is more convenient for service and repair! Just my opinion as an electrician who’s worked in residential, commercial and industrial settings.
That and sometimes the m12 can just get in some real tight spaces I feel
Bingo. I'm in residential HVAC service and the M12 line serves me well in SO many situations working in tight quarters. IMO, M18 is great for commercial and residential install.
So as an electrician myself. I am asking what you mean by the m18 is better for installs? Obviously useful for drilling wood studs, unibits, and large holes. However, in steel stud for the application of boxing, strapping, and even half inch holes with twist bits I think the m12 is more than powerful enough.
I use makita 18V and milwaukee m12 at work as a door installer. No doubt 18V tools are stronger than M12. But the M12 tools are overpriced and some of them are even more expensive than the 18V makita
@@pauljamilkowski3672I also do service(hvac)just bought the m12.way lighter than my 18v makita
I brought the M12 Impact into the shop and it was laughed at
Now: Everyone in the shop has the M12 Impact and nobody's laughing
I too was laughed at the jobsite. No almost everyone I know has M 12. From there a little SDS setting air conditioners to impact driving screws to compact bandsaw cutting strut. They are more than powerful enough for most work and they are so much lighter hanging off your toolbelt or working overhead. Yes I have a super Sawzall and an M 18 super hole hog. Sometimes you need bigger heavy duty to but most of the time you don’t
@@kconnor2371 this was my thinking, ppl make fun of ya till their shoulders arent as worn down at the end of the day from not having 5lb of tool over their head
Total 2021 wood budget for this video: $7,000.00
3 weeks after... U can count twice
Lmao
Right 😂😂😂😂
Hi guys! If you're interested I've got Amazon links to these tools in the description. Thanks for watching!
Tighten the freaking clutch more dude
18 volt Milwaukee is like a 7-11 being open 24 hours. I don't need a slurpee at 2am. I just need the option to have a slurpee at 2am.
Oh. I like what you did there. 👍
exactly
LOL! well said sir!
This is painful to watch when the guy doesn't know to manually tighten and lock the chuck.
Having said that, I own a large amount of M12 tools and Makita 18V.
There is a HUGE difference in power once you start going over any bits that are half inch.
Thank you !!!
Amen!
Was thinking the same thing
LOL make me laugh, with all that best tool behind him, not surprise he cut his hand seeing that he don't know how to tighten even the bit, hope that bit not strike him, like saw.
Lol at work I tested both and you’re exactly on point, anything over an inch is basically not going to go well. Just get the m18 for anything over 1/2-3/4
These 12v drills are perfect for carrying under a house as a plumber to hang straps for drain lines etc. Super convenient and lightweight when having to drive screws laying on your back or stomach
I have M12 tools, I got them for the smaller size and ease of handling. If I needed the added power of the M18, I use a plug in tool. I have the impact driver, hammer drill, reciprocating saw, multi tool, 3/8 ratchet and 3/8 impact wrench. They have been great tools, very ergonomic and reliable.
Same here...my M12s cover just about everything I need and if not I use my corded tool.
@@WolvesHart79 The only thing they miss is an m12 wood planer. That would be amazing, I was surprised Milwaukee doesn't make one.
@@em4703tôi cũng muốn 1 chiếc máy bào gỗ m12
While I won’t argue that 18v is more powerful, I’m an electrician and I use m12 impact and drill at work every single day. Serves my needs just fine. About the only thing I really need an 18v drill for is hole saws. I run the surge impact though because it’s a lot easier on the ears. It crazy how much quieter the hammer is on it.
I got the m12 surge impact and I've framed 100s of lineal feet with no prob...so many ppl like how it sounds like a toy but it gets it done!
I'm a cable guy, so I'm driving screws to hold up wires, occasionally drilling into concrete for small anchors, etc. I've been carrying around an M18 on my belt but it's getting a bit heavy...I think I'll do the M12! It's incredibly powerful for being so much smaller.
Got an M12 5o replace an M18 that someone stole off my site. They were out of 18's at Depot when I went. Had no idea there was a push button to change speeds on top of the M12 impact driver. I thought it straight sucked at first, and let it bounce around in the truck for a few days. It changed the speed to 3 and I was stunned...then realized there was a light on top of it with a button...such an idiot. Great power, and the batteries are nice to have for my jacket during colder days.
Cable guy as well. Honestly the only thing I break out the M18 for is hammer drilling 3/8"-1/2" holes in stone/concrete/brick walls, I live in an area with a lot of old farm houses with river rock and heavy stone foundations, or any hole needing to be longer than 6" (and even with this if they made 7/16" bell hanger bits that were 12" long with a 1/4" hex drive I'd use those with the M12). Everything else can be done with the M12 impact driver. Screw clips? M12 Impact. Wall plates? M12 impact with replacement screws (because he ones that come with wall plates are trash, I mean seriously who decided on slotted screws that strip after the most miniscule amount of force?). Anchor holes in literally anything? M12 impact with a 1/4" multimaterial bit. That M12 impact has replaced my old beat up Ryobi electric screwdriver, my M18 impact, and my M18 hammer drill (for specific applications). This is all with the 2A battery too, I have a 4A but I just find I don't need it and the 2A fits in places better.
I mean who wants to be carrying an M18 up 20-28' to drill a pilot hole for an anchor or drive in a few screws? I don't anymore. M12 fits in the pouch with my other tools so I don't have to worry about missing the clip and I'm not fiddling with chucks and bits up top in wind, rain, and all other kinds of crap. It was easily the investment I appreciated the most. I'm tempted to try using the M12 hammer drill for the larger holes, but just don't know if it'll have the grunt to drive a 26"x1/2" masonry bit through a stone foundation.
Simple fact that the M12 is doing what the M18 is makes it the winner
Great video but when you tighten down Milwaukee chucks don’t hold it and spin the drill to tighten it, that’s why your bits kept falling out if you spin the chuck by hand with the drill off there is a ratcheting system that gets the chuck super tight. On a side note the m12 is great for light duty but for large paddle bits and hole saws the m18 is the top dog
After you ratchet it tight by hand you can go back slightly the other way until you hear a click and your bit is now locked into place
@@bartholomewgreatpants3425 Fake news
WRONG. Turning the chuck back until it clicks UNLOCKS IT. Go watch AvE's video about this, he breaks down the patent drawings and everything. STOP PERPETUATING THIS MYTH. IT DAMAGES CHUCKS.
@@leaf5073 nope. That's incorrect. The locking system is true, you can fell it cam over when you twist the chuck back. That's locking the jaws. I've spoken to Milwaukee repair agents and they confirmed this. I trust them more than a guy on RUclips
Milwaukee Chuck’s just can’t hold bits no matter what just a problem with them .
using drill bits on an impact driver is AMAAAAZING!! Especially on the paddle bits.
honestly they are great
How come you never lock the chuck until it clicks? Think you might find that's why the bits keep spinning and falling out!
Just what I was thinking
Yeah man. That part hurt. He didn't ratchet a ratcheting chuck
with milwaukee you tighten the bit until it clicks a couple of times then go one click back and that will lock it in place...... milwaukee is smart
Or that's why he keep "losing" bits
@@jonathan5314 "one click back and that will lock it in place" I had no idea about that part thank you lol
I found that with the 18v. The cheaper bits do not hold up. I drill into a lot of masonry to mount anchors. I have found that when I first got it, I was destroying the tips off the bits. It has so much more torque and speed. The bits where glowing red hot and broke the masonry bit ears right off. Great drill and impact set. I am so glad they have improved to this point. The first tools were so under powered. The most popular tool was the Makita drill. They were hard to kill. We had to carry a Milwaukee corded hammer drill to back it up for the tough drilling. We did beat them pretty hard also. I have always like the corded drills. Now it seems they have worked out the bugs over the years. They are a great set. Would recommend to anyone on the fence. Since we use ours every day for work. I actually use both a hammer drill and a standard drill on some projects together. This helps to keep from changing bits and cuts down on time. They have become more job specific with the battery setup. Keeps down on the weight for handling the tool all day. I keep some of the 1.5ah batteries for that. Which is nice for the flashlight also. I have found it helpful to have a variety of batteries. I currently carry 1.5, 3 and 5 ah batteries. I have two of each with two chargers. I have not run out of charged batteries on a project yet and help so keep them charging quickly. The tools are well worth the money.
Who doesn't love running powertools? Great video!
Finally a comparison video! Looks like m18 is a beast
Drilling through a 4 x 4 at today’s wood prices is just flonting your money. Show off. 👍
@asdrubale bisanzio haha. No joke.
No shit
@asdrubale bisanzio Hey guys! Name something that is better than FREE?
We are offering FREE products including oscillating tool blades to talented people such as yourself to try out our products.
All we ask in return is to provide a 4 or 5 star review on Amazon after you’ve tried it!
We send you the money including tax to purchase the item on Amazon, and you try it and make the review! It's as simple as that! We have the highest quality and largest selection of adult toys that you won't get enough of!
Reply Yes to to proceed.
flaunting
@@mrniusi11 ok thanks Kyle.
My M12 Fuel are My Favorites as Well! but got the M18 Fuel for a just in case situation! this is one of my favorite videos on the entire RUclips Platform! Love this video!
RUclips! Why doesn’t this video have a million views already????
🤞😂 Thanks!
@@HAXMAN I agree! I love him! He is a combination of AvE and Project Farm!
Nevermind, he had square drives. Fing canadian
I didn't know you name was Adams, so is mine. I like you now
Im drunk sorry
I'm so glad someone knows the difference between a lag bolt and a lag screw great review man
TL;DR: More Ah doesn't directly mean more power, but a smaller battery could limit your tool's ability to pull power from the battery.
The capacity of a battery doesn't change the power the battery can deliver. HOWEVER, for power tools, a bigger battery usually means more "rows" of batteries. A row consists of a couple of cells that are put in series. This increases the voltage from roughly 3V per cell, to a total of 12V or 18V. Now to add more capacity, you need more cells, but you can't put them in series, since that would increase the voltage, so they put the next row parallel with the previous one. When cells are hooked up parallel, they increase the amperage, which in turn can make your tool more powerful (or really, a smaller battery can make your tool less powerful, the max power is always determined by the tool, not the battery).
To simplify, have three guys of the same size carry the log ten miles or 6 guys of the same size carry the same log the same distance. Not necessarily adding more power, but distributing the load and allowing more work to be done for a longer period of time.
Also the rpms and in/lb of the M18 drill probably double M12 due to smaller battery.
@11:10 pilot hole... It's called a pilot hole. Not pre drill
@@RandyMarsh0301 First of all, you're replying to the wrong thing, mr. "expert". Secondly, pre-drilling and a pilot hole are two completely different things. A pilot hole is a thing, pre-drilling is an action. Those can exist side by side.
Also, it's not "cAlLeD" a pilot hole, that's just something that some people call it. You can call it a pre-drilled hole, poopsicle, whatever you like. Don't be so pedantic, it's just sad.
@@timderks5960 Wow someone is angry. Are you ok now? You got all that off your chest? Have a Kleenex (or facial tissue if Kleenex offends you) and just breath.
I’m just amazed at how well the M12 compares to almost any 18 or 20 volt tool, especially with the 6 amp battery.
By the way, the 6 amp battery provides more power in most cases.
That's probably why my drill is weak. I don't have good batteries.
@@dangrimes5078 Or it’s just a weaker drill. They all have a torque rating.
the six amp hour battery has known issues with its longevity, unfortunately
Great reviews video,
Thank you
TL;DR most modern power tools - bigger battery more power !
most modern power tools do get more power with higher capacity batteries, lithium cells have a Discharge Rate usually specified in C, say the cell is 1.5Ah and discharge rate of 1C, you can pull 1.5Ah x 1C=1.5A from the cell, say its 20C, you can pull 1.5Ah x 20C = 30A from the cell, then you add more cells in parallel (increasing the battery capacity) say instead of 1 row you put 3 in parallel it triples the current you can pull from the battery, meaning you can pull 60A (with previous example) and this counts. tools an batteries have electronics in them monitoring the currents and voltage to protect the tool and the battery, so if the m12 shuts off when it binds its because the 2Ah battery told it to cut the power because it cant provide more current, the 6Ah battery would of had 3 times the limit of the 2Ah, of course you need to take into consideration the amount of current the tools motor can handle, that why the tool and the battery constantly "talking to each other", this is why its very important to match a tool with a battery to get the most out of it, there is a video on youtube of a guy using the m18 12Ah battery on the m18 driver or impact and its just shuts off when he pulls the trigger because the tool is overwhelmed with the amount of current is gets (also an engineering fault) also bigger batteries are better for battery performance and overheating, when you are really pushing the tool - with bigger battery the battery can push more amps and run cooler.
The lack of tightening and locking your bits in the chuck was a bit frustrating…and you can add the handle to save your wrist a little
I was going to comment the same thing, about the tightening/locking and handle to save wrists.
Man, I've never used the M18 stuff but I LOVE my M12 tools... I'm an accessories fitter at a dealership for 4x4's so I'm working with brand new bolts/screws, the M12 stuff has PLENTY of grunt to deal with the thread locked, factory tightened bolts. Awesome stuff, I've not once thought, hmm I need more powerful tools. ( I use the M12 multi tool, die grinder, 3/8 Stubby, and 1/4 impact driver... and a couple different heated M12 jackets/vests..)
Thank you, good test!
I love how with the 1 inch paddle 12v he’s canted the whole time and it’s still digging that only makes willwakee look better
Who doesn't like a clean hole 😌
Awesome video 😁
Thanks for the video!
Perfect vid for Father’s Day! Thanks
I'll always choose m12 for the impact. The m12 drill is also good, but for certain tasks I'd rather have the m18 drill.
Perfect timing! Getting ready to snag some of these.
You won't be disappointed.
I love how nobody on RUclips knows how to lock a chuck I feel like it’s top-secret at this point
Tell me about it. Lol crack it a whisker back once tight 😉 not manny people know 😄
You are my new favourite RUclipsr 😂 I have so much to learn and your videos are really helpful
I just bought an M 18 fuel combo kit with a hammer drill and a surge impact along with two batteries a 12 V and 18 V charger and a hard case offer like $220 or so.
Link to kit you speak of, home depot offering?
I'm no expert, but from my personal experience I can say that the xc batteries (at least on the m12) have more power. You can definitely hear the rpm difference between the two different batteries. My scientific take on this is that because the larger xc batteries have more cells in them, they can distribute the load more evenly between the individual cells, which causes less strain/draw and more rpm due to the amperage draw being more equally distributed. Once again, I have no idea, but it sounds good to me...lol
As an electrician. Yes simply having more amps through the extra batteries will fove you more power Va
The load is split between the two sets of cells, therefore there is less voltage drop or 'sag'. So higher voltage, proportional higher current therefore significantly more watts of power.
Correct. Twice and many cells in parallel can supply twice the current.
I'm not a milwaukee guy but I really enjoy u trying out all these things, I appreciate your time and effort❤
@12:22 then @12:47. 😂😂😂 must be a knot in there. LoL
I drill holes with a Milwaukee drill and hole hawg all the time at work yet still watched this entire video.
I'm glad you did! 😄
Just got my gen 3 m12 and it’s impressive
I love my M12 tools and will buy more !!! I never need to drill inch hole in 4X4 lol... and for lag screws I always pre-dill !!!! You can split wood without pre-drilling. And I use my m12 Stubby anyway.
Thanks, helpful comparison
Lost the paddle bit on the first pass… impressive Milwaukee!!!
What I'm buying the M12 for is for tight areas and the m18 for my daily driver.
I worked in a shop that made AC units for data centers I always looked down upon m12 but now I see the value!
Looking back there's been times where I'd rather sacrifice power for compact multiple times a day for the longest time all I valued was power.
Lmao. I do chiller hvac work and m12 is fine 90 percent of the time. I have the hex and the 3/8 stubby.
It’s not that often that I have to use m18.
Tip for ya, do the chuck up tight then gently turn the chuck back and you feel it lock. Stops the bit sliping ❤️
Don’t believe everything you see on the internet. This is false.
I have several examples of both the M18 and M12, the main difference is power, if I have a simple task I'll use the M12 because of the weight, but when power is required, I'll used the M18... an example was putting long screws into 2x4 stock, the M12 could start the task, but didn't have enough power to force the boards tight, when I switched to the M18, not only did the gap disappear, the screw was counter sunk into the wood.
Whenever my dad gets mad enough at a project he just gets out the corded drill from the 80's. That thing can drive a 3" forstner through hardwood. As long as you can hold on😁.
I do a lot of cabinetry and fine carpentry and for those applications the M12 set has been amazing, I'm even able to get winter rusted lug nuts off the car with the impact gun.
Obviously if you're in a more heavy duty type of trade then the M18 set would make more sense, both great tools though!
YESSSSS!!!! Been waiting for someone to doing this!!!! 😞 but 4 months to late. I already bought the m12.
John C. Reilly your hilarious. Almost had me bungling around with a tool review. If you ain't first you last. Shake and bake John. Love you movies.
I have the 18v set it's an impressive beast, to much of a beast for some jobs so just bought the 12v set for lighter/smaller jobs, arriving Thursday, I don't get excited about much but.....
I GOT A NEW DRILL COMEING!!! 😃😃😃
❤ MILWAUKEE
From South Wales pembs!
Good lord my wrists and arms hurt from watching you with those hole saws and paddle bits! Fun video! :)
lol, another comment in the archives. Looking around for M12 stuff; figures you have a video for it. My sons (10 and 7), are finally into woodworking, but an 18V Ryobi with a 4ah battery weighs about as much as they do. Time for compact/subcompact. Took the plunge and got an M12 kit (with bonus battery).
Not my best work. 😄
@@HAXMAN - but edjumacational, which is the important thing. I mean, not a snowball’s chance in hell I’m letting my sons near bits that big (12 year old daughter, maybe; them, nooooo way), but good to know where the limits appear to be.
🤣 ok this guy is hilarious. His tone the subtle comments ( the sarcasm) but most of all how he goes about everything. A sort of fly by the seat of your pants. Oh , lost a finger there or dam that didn’t work. 😂
Don’t get me wrong. It’s organized and structured. But I find myself laughing a lot.
Not at you but with you! ( well, a little bit at you but in a good way.) I mean, let’s face it this is what we are all kinda like isn’t it.
Good stuff here ❤😂
You had me at ugga dugga! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
6.2 lbs vs 3 lbs... I have both. I use the m12 drill and driver to mount boxes on to concrete block. Those stay on my tool belts but sometimes I need to drill a large 2 inch hole into concrete block. I would not carry around the m18 with 5ah battery on my tool belt. Use the correct size tool for the job.
For daily user, M18 is your choice.
Being a non-daily user, I have a full set of M12 torque rachet, drill driver, impact gun for DIY mechanics. M12 Hammer drill will be my choice on top my M12 batteries and charger.
Thanks for you guidance, always glove and safety glass.
With the impact ive found drastic difference even driving decl screws using a 2ah vs a 4ah. On the drill not soo much.
The m12 fuels are what I grab now and I love em.. im not in the trades etc but they just feel less bulky than my Ridgid/Kobalt 18v counterparts
I have both these sets, like yourself I started with the 12v Fuels and absolutely love them. For most of what I do they are more then powerful enough, however there was a few times where I was pushing them to and yes beyond there limits. So like yourself I upgraded to the 18volt set along with an 18v sawzall. Now I don't think there is a job I do that these tools can't handle.
😊😊
I have the m12 fuel impact gun, impact driver and combi drill and they do exactly what I need
Lock your chuck the correct way and you will stop losing your bits…tighten all the way, then loosen the chuck 1 ‘click’…you will save your chuck in the long run
Great video👍👍🌹🌹
Lol you’re not even wearing safety goggles lol 😂
You remind me of Jim Carrey character In living color Fire Marshal Bill lol
HOLY CRAP 4 BANDAIDS. haha that made me laugh 100% expected the word stitches
Shocking I know. 😄
You need to tighten the chuck by hand pretty much til you can't anymore
Then lock it by turning it back a whisker after its tight, you feel it lock. Test it you will know what i mean.
Good review. Little bit immature but still good. If you learnt to tighten the chuck in the future ,it will be great.
love this review! been looking for a comparison in the milkyway 12/18 range for a while.. ive watched lots of reviews but where im domestic sparks im thinking to go m18 combi for hole drilling metal/wood and go m12 impact but also have m18 hammer/chisel drill
Good video. Great information. Thank you!
I have the M12 fuel set for my job doing apartment maintenance. I love the things. The impact is just a beast. And the hammer drill function on the drill is handy as hell when you need it. It's not on par with the M18 for heavy duty tasks, but it'll do 75 percent of what the M18 will do.
12 volt driver / drills are great up to about a # 6 wood screw and then there just isn't enough torque to handle the larger diameter screws .
Fortunately i convinced my wife that i needed both a twelve volt and an 18 . She actually didn't buy my argument but when i started to shake from new tool withdrawals she took pity on me and let me buy both .
😂
Finally someone with a legit comparison! 👍
Look up project farm
Got to have both
If you torque the chuck all the way tight, then back it off so the chuck itself feels like it popped into neutral that locks the bit in place and prevents the bit from breaking loose
Even the so called pros don't know this technique
Interesting comparison.
That 12 volt sucker pretty dam impressive compared to the 18v.
Ah of the battery also helps if working on large projects.
To me, the 12vs come into thier own on smaller limited space projects.
Whereas the higher torque of the 18v whilst good on bigger stuff, can sometimes be too bulky into tight spaces.
Another point to add.
It does seem, if you worked a 12v like an 18v it may wear out quicker, and long term an 18v may last longer being ever so slightly under-worked compared to the 12v.
Couple years ago had to build some wooden scaffolding to fix an elevated frozen sash window.
Using a DeWalt 12v with 2ah battery constantly screwing 3" screws approx about 20/30 of them.
Battery lasted 20 minutes.
The top/end of the drill got so hot couldn't hold it even with gloves lol.
Dugga Dugga!
Team America; f.... Yeah
Xactly, and what many don't get!
M12s look surprisingly good
Anybody else feel like they were watching Bobby Dukes Art? I have enjoyed watching the Haxman!!
I don’t think I realized your name was Adam and I’ve been watching for a couple months now. I don’t know why I’m commenting about it, but it seemed….noteworthy.
Amazing and lovely power tool... I have Milwaukee M12 FPD-0 (Asia version), the power is almost similar to Dewalt DCD7781... It's really small red devil👌🏼🤩
Wattage is actually the unit of power in electricity and is calculated by multiplying the amount of electricity (measured in Ampere or Amp) by the force of electricity (measured in Volt). So W=Amp x Volt. A battery with a force of 12 volt and amount of 3 amp/H electricity produces 36W/Hour of power in total. A 18 Volt battery at 5Amp/Hour produce 90 Watt/hour in total. So more voltage and more Amp produce more power but at the receiving point of the electricity the motor has to be able to use that much power. If the maximum capacity of a tool is to produce the equivalent of 2 Watts per minute, you can add a 5amp/h, 12V battery, the output of the tool is going to be 2 Watt/min only, which can be provided by the 12V and 3 amp/H battery for 12 minutes ... Same if you connect a tool to a 15amp house plug at 110 V or to a 20 Amp plug at 110V, you won't see any difference. If your tool needs 5 amp at 110V to run and 15amp to cut (table saw), you can have a 20 amp plug, it won't change much for your table saw, the 20 amp is only useful if you run another device on the same plug that only needs 5 Amp.
Hey Adam,
Do you know the trick to tighten your chuck then back it off until it clicks to lock the chuck? May be helpful for these types of tests in the future. I love your channel. I spend my time watching usually with a huge smile. Keep it up.
I can’t believe I didn’t know that. Thanks!
Wow nice. Just tried this on my makita 18v.
@@HAXMAN you hadn’t heard of it because it’s BS internet tales
Backing it off only unlocks the chuck
@@Meowface.it’s literally one of the features of the drill. Turn back to lock. Dewalt does it too.
@@gianfrancofettuccini nah… it literally doesn’t
AvE did a good video on it, showing the design patents and showing why it’s actually unlocking it by turning it back
The click is the locking mechanism releasing
This is why I love my makita 18V...😁
I was gonna get upset that the bits were never put in the chucks right but he's missing 20% of his hand because of a chainsaw lol you get a pass
I run a set of m18 fuel drivers/drills. The impact driver is awesome. The drill is very powerful but clunky and I've never liked the chuck. I this the m12's are good for about 80% of what I do, and I'm looking to add a set for myself. Very tempting package.
I love my 1/2” 18v impact. You remind me of the actor John C Reilly
Yes! Nailed it. A lot of guys say “dude looks like russel Crowe” I thought Jon c Reilly yeaaa!
very good thanks
Please, you’re killin me man. Tighten the chuck the correct way!!! Tighten it with the drill stopped.
Anyone else notice the 12v 1/2 paddle test involved the 12v going straight into a knot in the 4x4 about 2/3s the way through and slowing...
DEFINITELY not a professional test.
That snark said, I really do like to see these little guy Vs Big Guy showdowns.
Stop hating on him. As he stated. this is his wife's shop she is video taping him. Cheers from khazikstan
Woo boo! At last another video. 😁
Woo Hoo! Damn autocorrect, lol.
😁
The 2 bigger bits were wrist twisters 😳😂, fun video Adam, can’t wait to see the upcoming projects 😉😉 keep them coming 👍🏻, have a great weekend 🙋🏼♂️
Thanks! You too!
Great video brother but those jokes fell flat.
The Elf cut @ 11:02 had me rolling. “6…..inches” 😂😭
I'm thinking you are the knot lol. I love my m12, I almost never need to use pneumatic to remove lugs or body bolts.
Fun comparison. I also have both M18 and M12 tools. Unless I need big power, I always grab the M12 stuff first. They easily do about 95 percent of what I need a drill or driver to do. They are MUCH more compact and I can carry a LOT more tools in the same box.
I noticed you weren't locking the chucks on the drills. They are locking chucks. You can spin them on, but they need to be tightened further for big bits or masonry bits. Then back it of until you fell a click. Then its locked.
With batteries, it's the cell count that matters for power. In the M12 line, I believe the 3 and 4ah XC packs have the highest drain rate and produce the most power. They won't last as long as a 6ah, but they let out the pixies faster. This is just a matter of the chemistry and robustness of the cell design.
I have the m12 and the spade bit, I figured it was going to super struggle. Then when you got to the forstner bit Ive had 18volt drills that couldn't handle that in 1st gear.
The whole premie of a paddle bit is that is needs to be held level or evenly in order for it to cut right, if it's crooked, the way your held it in the 12v drill, of course it's not going to work properly. It stops and goes cause it's getting caught by one tooth of the paddle bit and not cutting with both teeth.
I've used M18 drills to mix cement.
Full bags in buckets. A drill ran 24 bags of 66 lbs b before getting too hot.
A wired 6Amp Ryobi just caught on fire mixing the water for the first cement bag...
I wasn't even using brushless motors.
😂
"Except for government" haha amazing!