Absolutely fantastic. This helped a ton with changing my clutch and flywheel on my 2014 A5. I am one of those sorry souls to have done it with jack stands and 2 floor jacks. Tip for anyone else that is going to do this and has the 2L V4. You can reach the top bolts from above because the engine is small. Makes it allot easier. Same go’s for the annoying bolt on the axels heat shield.
It just takes a bit of time. I think it took me 2 days (not full days) to get it down. And one to get it up and running. Nothing too stupid. Definitely get help to lower it down on a jack. I had used 2 jacks a person on each and lowered slowly. (You can do it with one just find the best balance point before fully unbolting. It’s pretty straightforward but mark, video or write any differences between your car and the video. It’s easy to forget a clip or to look for one you don’t have if you didn’t make a reminder for yourself.
And that my friends (or good ppl if you prefer) is why I own the DSG version. Even when the mechatronics unit (or solenoids, more specifically) takes a crap, it's still waaaaaaayyyyyy easier to fix than a clutch replacement! 😂 But superb DIY as usual! 😊
You are brilliant at explaining the process and I’m glad I have found your channel, any is possible on jack stands and I will be doing this, possibly a £500 save, thank you sir
LOL, he said "I hope you're not doing this on the ground". I could only imagine what creative words would be coming out of my mouth trying to do this on jack stands.
Have you thought about doing a video about replacing the OEM clutch line with a stainless steel clutch line (like from ECS) that removes the delay value in the line and improves clutch pedal feel and drivability? Not sure if there is another delay valve on the reservoir
Can you provide more info on the updated clutch fork? Why the update? I assume there was a problem with the original design? When did the update get made? What are failure symptoms of the old fork?
I didn’t have a circlip on the drive shaft I had another 6 bolt cv . And I had to dismantle the ns axle shaft to get it to drop down past the subframe. Friggin pita job
Hello, a question, if a LUK clutch is installed on a car from the factory, can you replace it with a Sachs clutch complete set for every repair? Thanks
good job man 😁 i have done a new clutch Sachs set,becouse the old clutc was slipping. Now i have a problem with starting the car... always say press clutch to start the car... i have to press it real hard, more that is normal to start the car. I have changed slave cilinder and master cylinder. do you have any idea what could be the reason? thanks for helping bro 💪
Just finished this job before i came across this video. I skipped the step where the unit was put on the press and assembled the clutch normally. Now the car drives like it has a worn clutch, high biting point and burning clutch smell. Would this be because i did not put the clutch under load as shown?
Hi Leonard, it may be possible, but there would really be no way to tell without more diagnosing. You can try bleeding the slave cylinder as a "quick fix" to see if that remedies your problem, before tearing into things again.
Allright, I found this in ELSA. Procedure looks liketightening first bolt hand tight, turn the crankshaft 180° and tighten second bolt by 60Nm and then turn the crankshaft to the next bolts one by one and do the same torque
Got mine done by a very very reputable shop and I’m hearing a very faint knocking only at idle. Is this normal? South bend stage 2 daily just like the video. No codes and doesn’t affect driving
Hi Jack, did you replace the flywheel or just the clutch? After installing on this S4, we had no noise or anything that would even hint at us being in there.
@@fcpeuro the flywheel and clutch were replaced by a reputable shop that has done plenty of work for me. It’s very faint and only when the car is cold. I have maybe 200 miles on this clutch so far and it’s a very faint knocking/groan that I can only hear in the drivers seat when it’s very quiet. Goes away instantly with any revs above idle. Cannot hear it outside the car with the hood open. I’m going to monitor it and see what happens over the break in period.
One of those 3 bottom bell housing bolts is broken on my car. The 3 bolts at the bottom coming from the back side. I just bought the car, removed the tray to do oil change and found one bolt is snapped in half. Is it a big problem or can I normally drive the car. I don’t drive hard at all.
I know this is 1 year old, but at 10:03 it is CLEARLY VISIBLE the self adjusting springs are NOT in ideal, all the way back position. To do that, simple use the press to push the fingers all the way down while using a nut to push back on the springs. As soon the the springs push back ALL THE WAY, keep the nut pressure on the spring and let go of the press to release the pressure and for the springs to stay in the correct, all the way back position. Otherwise it will cause you problems when it's all in the car later on. Biggest mistake most people make and it doesn't take 5 minutes to do. Thes springs also DO GET OUT OF FACTORY POSITION DUE TO TRANSPORT! Even the manufacturers say that. Otherwise amazing video!
Fantastic video guys - thank you! I have an audi a4 2012 diesel technik 2.0 and had to replace clutch. I had to remove the engine bay removable firewall to reach the top bell housing bolts because it was impossible to get to them from behind with long socket extensions. (especially the top starter motor bolt). Watch Hachem's video on how to remove the firewall. ruclips.net/video/D0ubJ_QWlG8/видео.htmlsi=T4_ICQp3jo5D1yNy (around 26 minutes in) Add another hour for this extra step if you have a similar problem reaching the top bell housing bolts!
The detailed explanation of these videos are phenomenal.
This video was 99% applicable to my B8 S5 (4.2L) which I just finished bolting the trans back up into the car. Very well done video thank you!
Great to hear!!
Absolutely fantastic. This helped a ton with changing my clutch and flywheel on my 2014 A5. I am one of those sorry souls to have done it with jack stands and 2 floor jacks.
Tip for anyone else that is going to do this and has the 2L V4. You can reach the top bolts from above because the engine is small. Makes it allot easier. Same go’s for the annoying bolt on the axels heat shield.
Was it a huge pond in the butt job ? I’ve been quoted $1300-$2000 in the shops
It just takes a bit of time. I think it took me 2 days (not full days) to get it down. And one to get it up and running. Nothing too stupid. Definitely get help to lower it down on a jack. I had used 2 jacks a person on each and lowered slowly. (You can do it with one just find the best balance point before fully unbolting. It’s pretty straightforward but mark, video or write any differences between your car and the video. It’s easy to forget a clip or to look for one you don’t have if you didn’t make a reminder for yourself.
thanks a ton dude
I believe I’ve got more time than money so I’m going to try it out
Plus the shop can’t even get me on for 3 weeks 😂 ✌🏼
There's an incredible amount of work here... Can you just do my car?
Бро. Это самое лучшее видео на просторах ютуба. Респект и уважуха!
Это у них коробка вариатор на видео?
@@Sheh1000 это 6-ст механика
And that my friends (or good ppl if you prefer) is why I own the DSG version. Even when the mechatronics unit (or solenoids, more specifically) takes a crap, it's still waaaaaaayyyyyy easier to fix than a clutch replacement! 😂 But superb DIY as usual! 😊
😅💙
You are brilliant at explaining the process and I’m glad I have found your channel, any is possible on jack stands and I will be doing this, possibly a £500 save, thank you sir
Great job, MASTER !!!
need a video explaining the clutch bleeding procedure on the a4/s4
Great videos. Do you have an estimated install time?
not really a job for the jack stands but awesome tutorial nonetheless!
LOL, he said "I hope you're not doing this on the ground". I could only imagine what creative words would be coming out of my mouth trying to do this on jack stands.
@@boricuaMaldo they would have to be some very tall jack stands as well lool
Just did this all be it very painfully with 4 regular jack stands, Not something I would try again
Great video. I'm about to pay a shop to do this on my '15 A5. 🤣😅
How much did you pay
Have you thought about doing a video about replacing the OEM clutch line with a stainless steel clutch line (like from ECS) that removes the delay value in the line and improves clutch pedal feel and drivability? Not sure if there is another delay valve on the reservoir
Can you provide more info on the updated clutch fork? Why the update? I assume there was a problem with the original design? When did the update get made? What are failure symptoms of the old fork?
Just did mine thanks for the awesome vid
I didn’t have a circlip on the drive shaft I had another 6 bolt cv . And I had to dismantle the ns axle shaft to get it to drop down past the subframe. Friggin pita job
😥💙
Hello, a question, if a LUK clutch is installed on a car from the factory, can you replace it with a Sachs clutch complete set for every repair? Thanks
Part number for the flex plate bolts the 10x that go round the needle bearing
good job man 😁 i have done a new clutch Sachs set,becouse the old clutc was slipping. Now i have a problem with starting the car... always say press clutch to start the car... i have to press it real hard, more that is normal to start the car. I have changed slave cilinder and master cylinder. do you have any idea what could be the reason? thanks for helping bro 💪
You may want to check the clutch switch and ensure that it has not popped out of place, or failed. Best of luck!
Can you do this pretty easily without removing the trans if the engine is already out?
Good work
Can we get a detailed parts list? As far as it comes to all the different nuts and bolts that need to be repalced? 😁
Thank you, very good video!
Would this clutch fit a 2014 A4?
I’m doing my clutch in my S4. I don’t recommend if you’re a DIY person it’s a pain to install the transmission back up
Just finished this job before i came across this video. I skipped the step where the unit was put on the press and assembled the clutch normally. Now the car drives like it has a worn clutch, high biting point and burning clutch smell. Would this be because i did not put the clutch under load as shown?
Hi Leonard, it may be possible, but there would really be no way to tell without more diagnosing. You can try bleeding the slave cylinder as a "quick fix" to see if that remedies your problem, before tearing into things again.
@@fcpeuro tried bleeding a new slave from the dealer. No difference. Opening the gearbox again now. Will give you guys an update fml
Who do you order your clutch setup from
How did you bleed it?
Gratis job , Master !!!!
Hey, I didn't noticed tightening clutch to flywheel, can you tell us how many Nm and degrees should I do?
Hi Michael, that step-by-step process starts around the 9-minute mark!
i rather thought about connecting clutch with engine after fixing the gearbox to the engine block, 6 Hex bolts through the window at the bottom
Allright, I found this in ELSA. Procedure looks liketightening first bolt hand tight, turn the crankshaft 180° and tighten second bolt by 60Nm and then turn the crankshaft to the next bolts one by one and do the same torque
Got mine done by a very very reputable shop and I’m hearing a very faint knocking only at idle. Is this normal? South bend stage 2 daily just like the video. No codes and doesn’t affect driving
Hi Jack, did you replace the flywheel or just the clutch? After installing on this S4, we had no noise or anything that would even hint at us being in there.
@@fcpeuro the flywheel and clutch were replaced by a reputable shop that has done plenty of work for me. It’s very faint and only when the car is cold. I have maybe 200 miles on this clutch so far and it’s a very faint knocking/groan that I can only hear in the drivers seat when it’s very quiet. Goes away instantly with any revs above idle. Cannot hear it outside the car with the hood open. I’m going to monitor it and see what happens over the break in period.
One of those 3 bottom bell housing bolts is broken on my car. The 3 bolts at the bottom coming from the back side.
I just bought the car, removed the tray to do oil change and found one bolt is snapped in half.
Is it a big problem or can I normally drive the car. I don’t drive hard at all.
You will want to replace those!
@@fcpeuro thank you.
They did not show them tightening the clutch and dmf assembly to the rear plate
Try to do video change gasket to transmission to CVT Audi A4 B8.5
I know this is 1 year old, but at 10:03 it is CLEARLY VISIBLE the self adjusting springs are NOT in ideal, all the way back position. To do that, simple use the press to push the fingers all the way down while using a nut to push back on the springs. As soon the the springs push back ALL THE WAY, keep the nut pressure on the spring and let go of the press to release the pressure and for the springs to stay in the correct, all the way back position. Otherwise it will cause you problems when it's all in the car later on. Biggest mistake most people make and it doesn't take 5 minutes to do. Thes springs also DO GET OUT OF FACTORY POSITION DUE TO TRANSPORT! Even the manufacturers say that. Otherwise amazing video!
Brilliant
Ecxelent job 😅
Fantastic video guys - thank you!
I have an audi a4 2012 diesel technik 2.0 and had to replace clutch. I had to remove the engine bay removable firewall to reach the top bell housing bolts because it was impossible to get to them from behind with long socket extensions. (especially the top starter motor bolt).
Watch Hachem's video on how to remove the firewall.
ruclips.net/video/D0ubJ_QWlG8/видео.htmlsi=T4_ICQp3jo5D1yNy (around 26 minutes in)
Add another hour for this extra step if you have a similar problem reaching the top bell housing bolts!
Why don't you change the seal on the transmission shaft, it is old and it is inexpensive too?!
I was wondering that bc I bought one and didn't see him replace it. Only like 5 bucks through my shop