I have a 2015 Mazda 6 with a manual transmission. Your respondent is correct it is not shown on the maintenance schedule. However, from previous vehicles I've owned manual and automatic, which lasted 300000 miles, I've always changed fluid between 60000 and 70,000 miles. I just hit 140,000 miled so this is the second time I've changed the fluid. There is no such thing as lifetime transmission fluid. It does get dirty it does pick up the contaminants and small fragments of metal as it wears down and the fluid should be changed. The term lifetime and transmission fluid means it lasts for the lifetime of the warranty. But hopefully you want to drive the car beyond the warranty. I've had cars last 300 plus thousand miles without a transmission issue because I changed the transmission fluid approximately every 70,000 MI.
Honda does recommend changing the fluid in the transmission around 80,000km, 50,000 miles. It's a simple drain and fill. Like you mentioned, it depends on the manufacturer.
On transmissions, my 2007 Toyota Prius had an e-CVT. It felt like a rubber-band. When I pressed on the gas, it took awhile for the power to start. When I let up, it took awhile for the power to stop. I got used to it. It never failed. My current car, a 2016 Toyota Prius also has an e-CVT. It seems to have solved the rubber-banding issue. Still reliable In the 1990s I bought a new Dodge vehicle. The auto 6-speed trans on that car went out shortly after the warranty was up. $$$$. A reliable transmission is always better than one that leaves you stranded.
My Mazda CX-5 transmission failed at 40k miles. Left me stranded 3 hours from home. But had it towed to a close-by Mazda dealer in Hartford Connecticut where I broke down. They gave me a loaner car because it took a month to get the transmission replaced, it shipped in from Japan. All expenses covered under an extended warranty we had. I can’t imagine what it would have cost if it wasn’t covered.
I can answer the first question in the title without hearing the answer. The answer is a clear yes, and as it pertains to automatic and CVT transmissions, the servicing recommended by auto manufacturers tends to be inadequate, IF you care to be driving to 200k miles and beyond without replacing the transmission. At 80k miles, it may be too late to begin servicing the transmission. Search good mechanics on RUclips regarding this.
Wouldn't it be simpler to measure efficiency of pure EV with a metric such as mi/kWh? Many EVs report this information in the trip computer. I realize that it makes comparisons more difficult to combustion and hybrid vehicles, but for comparing pure EVs to one another, it makes sense to me.
Speaking of popular demand, please film together like you used to. There is no reason to do this remotely anymore and it’s rather annoying with the split screen
Two points: 1) Subaru's owner's manual has convoluted hard-to-find language about the subject, but in one footnote it does say that "frequent trailer towing" constitutes "severe driving service", and in another footnote it does say that severe driving service should force a CVT fluid change. Since my 2017 Forester towed a max-weight unbraked trailer (1,000 lb) on a 10,000 mile trip in 2019, I figured that required me to service the CVT. I had this done at a major Subaru dealer for quite an expensive price. That occurred at 47,000 miles, with the car now today at 86,000 miles, and we haven't had any problems with the CVT then or now. But from what I've read, Subaru CVT servicing is a risky procedure to perform if you are not sure your mechanic is competent. 2) Your point about "don't start now if you've got lots of miles" doesn't make much technical sense to me. Surely if done properly, it will increase the transmission durability some amount. Is it just that you suspect that an 80,000-mile unserviced transmission is so far down the road of wearing out, that the cost of the fluid change won't be recouped by the time the transmission ultimately fails? If a never-serviced transmission has a 50/50 chance of failing at 140,000 miles, but one getting a fluid change for the first time at 80,000 miles now has a 50/50 chance of making it to 145,000 or 150,000, then I can see the economic argument -- but this neglects the value of the year or so of extra dependability you get between 140,000 and 150,000 miles.
I'm not a mechanic but my understanding of it is as follows. The traditional automatic transmissions rely on viscosity, friction and hydrodynamics to work properly. A brand new transmission with tight tolerances requires super clean fluid, less viscous fluid. But as the transmission ages, tolerances between the working parts grow and that fluid collects particulate matter that effectively maintains a level of viscosity that allows the parts to grip and slip appropriately. An older unserviced transmission with new super clean, thin fluid just doesn't have the correct viscosity anymore to create enough friction and you might end up with slipping and poor shifting. Yes, leaving dirty fluid in the transmission and all those particles of worn down transmissions parts will continue to wear down your gears and other parts. However, the alternative may be a transmission that just doesn't shift at all, instead of one that works...sort of okay now and will for a few more years on dirty fluid. I don't know if 80,000 is the magic number over which fluid shouldn't be changed, I suppose a lot depends on how/where your vehicle drives. (Also, there is a difference between a "flush" and a simple fluid change. Unlike an engine oil change, where you can effectively drain out "all" the fluid in one visit, the amount of fluid and how it is distributed in the transmission, means, with a one time drain and replace, you aren't actually getting out all the old fluid. A "flush" "solves" this problem, but the aggressive/disturbing nature of the process can dislodge debris that was "minding its own business" and ultimately cause more problems than it solves.)
I don't know the mechanics of the transmission fluid, but I've heard from someone that if you wait a long time before changing the transmission fluid (say at 80k) there can be residue/build-up that gets dislodged when the new fluid goes in, and ends up creating a risk that wasn't there before.
6:58 the only issue with “Lifetime Fluid” is, what is lifetime? When/at what mileage would the transmission fail? So I’d just do a drain and fill if you are worried, if not, just leave it.
Toyota defines "lifetime" as the lifetime of the transmission, which is 250,000 miles on a 5th gen Tacoma, and changing the fluid frequently will not extend the life. Or at least that is what they told me at the dealership. That said, I change the fluid every 50,000 miles and the screen every other time. 350,000 miles and counting...
Our 2018 Cadillac CT6 2.0E plug-in regularly sees 200 mpg a d 3,000 miles per tank. Though we usually only drive it for 45 miles in EV only mode the highway range is up to 600 miles!
What also wasn't mentioned about the tax credits from the Inflation Reduction Act, it leans favorable towards low cost GM cars like the Chevy Bolt, and punishes you for buying a better quality EV from Hyundai or Toyota. Correct me if wrong but that's also what I got out of my IRA research.
1st year reliability is a big deal for me. I'm now driving a 2022 Hyundai Kona (gas). My previous vehicle was a 2019 Kona (same gas model). The Kona came out in 2018 and there were some manufacturing issues with the headlight designs and DCT, which were both updated in 2019. So I would never even lease a new model their first year of production. I love my Kona but the DCT still hesitates when starting from a dead stop. Also, I will probably buy out my lease in 2024 because new car prices (even leases) are out of control!
Uh No. The Inflation Reduction Act tax credit requires the EVs (and/or batteries) are manufactured in the USA with a limit to the vehicle MSRP (which makes sense since US tax dollars are involved). It has nothing to with "better quality" vehicles and if you can afford a $100k EV you certainly don't need a tax credit
I think the point that they make about number of gears/type of transmission is ultimately correct. 'If you like the way it drives, it doesn't matter." But to dig a little deeper, you'll find that cars like the Honda Accord with the 2.0 liter turbo charged engine, "punches above it's weight" in 0-60 mph timed runs beating many other cars with more horsepower in part because of their 10-speed automatic transmission. With so many gear ratios available, it allows manufacturers to both give their cars, snappy, off-the-line acceleration, and comfy, calm, fuel efficient cruising on the highway. I gather it's been a few years since the CR editors have driven a 2005 Outback, but my car, with a 4-speed automatic transmission runs at about 2500 rpm at 65-75 mph. And compared to modern cars engines that spin at 1500 rpm at these same speeds due to more sophisticated multi-speed transmissions, that means things are a little loud in my car. Obviously the gap between the current Mazda 6 speed and the current Honda 10 speed is significantly smaller in driving dynamics, but the reason why the Honda is at least a half second quicker to 60 mph (and slightly better highway mileage) despite having virtually the same horsepower as the Mazda, is because of the gearing.
"Talk to your accountant" #RichGuyProblems This non-refundable tax credit is just as stupid as the original one was. What about the lower income people who don't owe enough to benefit from the credit, for example people like me who are on Social Security? Why does the exact same vehicle cost us up to *$7500 MORE* than someone making $150,000/year? Maybe foreign models that don't qualify will lower their prices, making them a better and more equitable purchase for me. _I'm sure that pushing people away from US automakers was exactly what the lobbyists were hoping for?_
Agree 100%. People always talking tax credits like as if it were cash on the hood which it most definitely is not, and forget about everyone with lower tax liability.
Chevrolet Bolt currently from what I read is the only car made right now that qualifies for the full $7500 tax credit if you have over that amount in taxes. It is made in the US, it is sourced in the US and meets all the requirements for 100% tax credit.
As far as I'm aware, the new tax act does actually take the credit off at purchase time, as opposed to the old style where it was a tax refund in the spring
And then say Tesla is an unreliable brand. They are making EV powertrain well before anyone else. Model 3/Y powertrain is just rock solid with reports of hundreds of thousands miles from heavy users. Really sick of CR anti-Tesla climax.
@@suvari225 Consumer reports ratings are actually REAL customers/owners who report problems they have or are experiencing with their cars. Lets hear the facts you have to back up your statements. Plus, Toyota were the first to build an EV powertrain, surely you must have heard of the Prius? Was not a total EV but started the entire EV experiments.
Generally speaking, (less problems per unit within the car building industry), Toyota is king. You take more of a reliability risk with other new and especially used cars, based on actual owner reviews.
Michael's question is essentially, i want a low cost of daily running cheap compact suv with an average or better CR reliability rating. Kia Niro PHEV. Joel's question: LOL. But CR is correct. It's how the transmission is tuned and reliability. Like don't get a vehicle with a Nissan CVT. For putting around, a Toyota CVT is fine. If you love cars, you want a modern ZF8 or PDK. LOL on Mazda 3. Can't see back or lane change, no worry, b/c race car
If you only want your transmission to last about 100,000 miles before it blows up don't change the fluid. That's "LIFETIME." If you want it to last 2,3, and 400,000 miles or more, change it every 60,000 miles. Scotty Kilmer, The Car Care Nut, Toyota Maintenance and just about all mechanics will tell you if you want your transmission and car to last, change the transmission fluid every 60,000 miles.
Very few unserviced transmissions fail. Most outlast the rest of the car. Most transmission failures are from hard part failure not fluid related failure.
If the guy (Question #1) is looking to replace a plugin, I figure he is looking to replace it with another hybrid or plugin; so when he said he considered the Ford Escape, I assumed he meant the Ford Escape Hybrid or Plug-in, both of which get better reviews than the regular Ford Escape. I am disappointed the CR panel did not acknowledge how they stated in a previous edition of Talking Cars that the Ford Escape is “the Escape done right.” (You can look it up!) Full disclosure: I own a 2020 Ford Escape SE Sport Hybrid. I’ve had no problems. There have been three recalls that Ford covered, which required I drop the car off for a half-day at the dealer. Yes, it is clear Ford has had quality control issues.
Toyota Camry, the crown jewel of the reliable cars, had transmission issues in first model year of 2018. Yes it is not hybrid, but 1st model year vehicle always bears the first seen problems. On the other hand, Tesla Model 3/Y has been around for 3-5 years now. Lots of the issues (mainly cosmetic) are ironed out. And Tesla EV powertrain is proven bulletproof with the oldest history in the modern EV industry. Naming Tesla as unreliable brand is just criminal.
29:22 okay so what I heard from Rachelle's question is, and if I'm wrong please ignore, was "the improved fuel economy worth it the cost of upgrading to a newer car with better gas mileage" If that is in fact what you are asking, the answer nine times out of 10 is "almost certainly no", and the reason for that is because of how unpredictable fuel prices are and how expensive new cars are. To give an example, let's say you are looking to double your current fuel economy, at 100 miles a day and 25 miles per gallons (I believe your Altima get's around that) up to 50 miles per gallon. that's 2 gallons of gas saved per day, which means of a 20 day work week you are saving about $160 a month. If your Altima is paid off, there is no new car that will make up that difference. even for a modest car you are looking at around $400/month minimum. these numbers start to get even worse when you factor in things like insurance cost, deprecation, maintenance, and so on. The most economical thing you can do, assuming your Altima is still running fine, is drive it till it dies, saving as much money as possible so that when your new job inevitably consumes your current car with mileage, you have a nice big down payment to really reduce the size of the loan on your next car. which your job will probably eat too. now if you Altima is unsafe, constantly breaking down, or you don't care about the economics you just want something better because you'll be spending all of your time in this car. Then by all means, go for it. But if your Altima is running fine, is safe, and you don't mind the car, then driving it and putting the money you would have spent on a new car payment into a savings account is the economically smart move. especially if it's all or mostly paid off.
And about reliability of final vs first model year - yes get the final except 2013 Subaru impreza which was the final year before a major remodel has below average reliability but the redisign 2014 has above average reliability. Go figure.
If you wanna zoom your meetings and allow hybrid office, go ahead, by why can't your most popular social media outlet be in person... its just annoying.
Toyota and Honda are sleep walking into the future. They are looking to the past and projecting it forward. EV adoption is accelerating every year. Exponential not linear. The only limiting factor is batteries. The number of electric vehicles and types of vehicles and trucks is growing. Electric vehicles are just better. No noise, no emissions, less fuel costs, less maintenance costs and amazing technology. Gasoline and diesel are OLD polluting technology. PHEVs still have a gasoline engine polluting the environment. Toyota and Honda will be late to the party. It will cost them market share, market value and future customers. There is a Climate Crisis. Young people will not buy petrol and diesel vehicles that add to the Climate Crisis.
![ARGENTINA vs. CHILE [3-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/De3AWmXzhuA/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a 2015 Mazda 6 with a manual transmission. Your respondent is correct it is not shown on the maintenance schedule. However, from previous vehicles I've owned manual and automatic, which lasted 300000 miles, I've always changed fluid between 60000 and 70,000 miles. I just hit 140,000 miled so this is the second time I've changed the fluid.
There is no such thing as lifetime transmission fluid. It does get dirty it does pick up the contaminants and small fragments of metal as it wears down and the fluid should be changed. The term lifetime and transmission fluid means it lasts for the lifetime of the warranty. But hopefully you want to drive the car beyond the warranty. I've had cars last 300 plus thousand miles without a transmission issue because I changed the transmission fluid approximately every 70,000 MI.
Honda does recommend changing the fluid in the transmission around 80,000km, 50,000 miles. It's a simple drain and fill. Like you mentioned, it depends on the manufacturer.
Thank you LORDT! Please add more than one question per weekly video. 🙏
On transmissions, my 2007 Toyota Prius had an e-CVT. It felt like a rubber-band. When I pressed on the gas, it took awhile for the power to start. When I let up, it took awhile for the power to stop. I got used to it. It never failed. My current car, a 2016 Toyota Prius also has an e-CVT. It seems to have solved the rubber-banding issue. Still reliable In the 1990s I bought a new Dodge vehicle. The auto 6-speed trans on that car went out shortly after the warranty was up. $$$$. A reliable transmission is always better than one that leaves you stranded.
Yes, the lubricant for my manual transmission is changed with top spec product every 5 years/ 60,000 miles😉
My Mazda CX-5 transmission failed at 40k miles. Left me stranded 3 hours from home. But had it towed to a close-by Mazda dealer in Hartford Connecticut where I broke down. They gave me a loaner car because it took a month to get the transmission replaced, it shipped in from Japan. All expenses covered under an extended warranty we had. I can’t imagine what it would have cost if it wasn’t covered.
I can answer the first question in the title without hearing the answer. The answer is a clear yes, and as it pertains to automatic and CVT transmissions, the servicing recommended by auto manufacturers tends to be inadequate, IF you care to be driving to 200k miles and beyond without replacing the transmission.
At 80k miles, it may be too late to begin servicing the transmission.
Search good mechanics on RUclips regarding this.
Wouldn't it be simpler to measure efficiency of pure EV with a metric such as mi/kWh? Many EVs report this information in the trip computer. I realize that it makes comparisons more difficult to combustion and hybrid vehicles, but for comparing pure EVs to one another, it makes sense to me.
Speaking of popular demand, please film together like you used to. There is no reason to do this remotely anymore and it’s rather annoying with the split screen
Nobody wants to come back to work
Covid still exists
Transmissions all have to be serviced. If you don't want to do it, just buy an EV which doesn't have a transmission.
Under most circumstances automatic transmissions do not need service. EVs have drive units with oil, which never need service.
Two points: 1) Subaru's owner's manual has convoluted hard-to-find language about the subject, but in one footnote it does say that "frequent trailer towing" constitutes "severe driving service", and in another footnote it does say that severe driving service should force a CVT fluid change. Since my 2017 Forester towed a max-weight unbraked trailer (1,000 lb) on a 10,000 mile trip in 2019, I figured that required me to service the CVT. I had this done at a major Subaru dealer for quite an expensive price. That occurred at 47,000 miles, with the car now today at 86,000 miles, and we haven't had any problems with the CVT then or now. But from what I've read, Subaru CVT servicing is a risky procedure to perform if you are not sure your mechanic is competent. 2) Your point about "don't start now if you've got lots of miles" doesn't make much technical sense to me. Surely if done properly, it will increase the transmission durability some amount. Is it just that you suspect that an 80,000-mile unserviced transmission is so far down the road of wearing out, that the cost of the fluid change won't be recouped by the time the transmission ultimately fails? If a never-serviced transmission has a 50/50 chance of failing at 140,000 miles, but one getting a fluid change for the first time at 80,000 miles now has a 50/50 chance of making it to 145,000 or 150,000, then I can see the economic argument -- but this neglects the value of the year or so of extra dependability you get between 140,000 and 150,000 miles.
I'm not a mechanic but my understanding of it is as follows. The traditional automatic transmissions rely on viscosity, friction and hydrodynamics to work properly. A brand new transmission with tight tolerances requires super clean fluid, less viscous fluid. But as the transmission ages, tolerances between the working parts grow and that fluid collects particulate matter that effectively maintains a level of viscosity that allows the parts to grip and slip appropriately. An older unserviced transmission with new super clean, thin fluid just doesn't have the correct viscosity anymore to create enough friction and you might end up with slipping and poor shifting. Yes, leaving dirty fluid in the transmission and all those particles of worn down transmissions parts will continue to wear down your gears and other parts. However, the alternative may be a transmission that just doesn't shift at all, instead of one that works...sort of okay now and will for a few more years on dirty fluid. I don't know if 80,000 is the magic number over which fluid shouldn't be changed, I suppose a lot depends on how/where your vehicle drives. (Also, there is a difference between a "flush" and a simple fluid change. Unlike an engine oil change, where you can effectively drain out "all" the fluid in one visit, the amount of fluid and how it is distributed in the transmission, means, with a one time drain and replace, you aren't actually getting out all the old fluid. A "flush" "solves" this problem, but the aggressive/disturbing nature of the process can dislodge debris that was "minding its own business" and ultimately cause more problems than it solves.)
I don't know the mechanics of the transmission fluid, but I've heard from someone that if you wait a long time before changing the transmission fluid (say at 80k) there can be residue/build-up that gets dislodged when the new fluid goes in, and ends up creating a risk that wasn't there before.
Love that edition of answering questions. Good job guys.
We should adopt an "energy use/distance" for all vehicles. Say watts/Kilometer..
6:58 the only issue with “Lifetime Fluid” is, what is lifetime? When/at what mileage would the transmission fail? So I’d just do a drain and fill if you are worried, if not, just leave it.
Toyota defines "lifetime" as the lifetime of the transmission, which is 250,000 miles on a 5th gen Tacoma, and changing the fluid frequently will not extend the life. Or at least that is what they told me at the dealership. That said, I change the fluid every 50,000 miles and the screen every other time. 350,000 miles and counting...
I have a 6 speed (+reverse) automatic transmission in my 2015 Camry. Great car, very smooth power train, Excellent gas mileage.
Our 2018 Cadillac CT6 2.0E plug-in regularly sees 200 mpg a d 3,000 miles per tank. Though we usually only drive it for 45 miles in EV only mode the highway range is up to 600 miles!
What also wasn't mentioned about the tax credits from the Inflation Reduction Act, it leans favorable towards low cost GM cars like the Chevy Bolt, and punishes you for buying a better quality EV from Hyundai or Toyota. Correct me if wrong but that's also what I got out of my IRA research.
1st year reliability is a big deal for me. I'm now driving a 2022 Hyundai Kona (gas). My previous vehicle was a 2019 Kona (same gas model). The Kona came out in 2018 and there were some manufacturing issues with the headlight designs and DCT, which were both updated in 2019. So I would never even lease a new model their first year of production. I love my Kona but the DCT still hesitates when starting from a dead stop. Also, I will probably buy out my lease in 2024 because new car prices (even leases) are out of control!
Uh No. The Inflation Reduction Act tax credit requires the EVs (and/or batteries) are manufactured in the USA with a limit to the vehicle MSRP (which makes sense since US tax dollars are involved). It has nothing to with "better quality" vehicles and if you can afford a $100k EV you certainly don't need a tax credit
25:08 Camry or RAV4 Hybrid, you should “break even” in just 2-3 years with your daily commute.
I think the point that they make about number of gears/type of transmission is ultimately correct.
'If you like the way it drives, it doesn't matter." But to dig a little deeper, you'll find that cars like the Honda Accord with the 2.0 liter turbo charged engine, "punches above it's weight" in 0-60 mph timed runs beating many other cars with more horsepower in part because of their 10-speed automatic transmission. With so many gear ratios available, it allows manufacturers to both give their cars, snappy, off-the-line acceleration, and comfy, calm, fuel efficient cruising on the highway. I gather it's been a few years since the CR editors have driven a 2005 Outback, but my car, with a 4-speed automatic transmission runs at about 2500 rpm at 65-75 mph. And compared to modern cars engines that spin at 1500 rpm at these same speeds due to more sophisticated multi-speed transmissions, that means things are a little loud in my car. Obviously the gap between the current Mazda 6 speed and the current Honda 10 speed is significantly smaller in driving dynamics, but the reason why the Honda is at least a half second quicker to 60 mph (and slightly better highway mileage) despite having virtually the same horsepower as the Mazda, is because of the gearing.
"Talk to your accountant" #RichGuyProblems
This non-refundable tax credit is just as stupid as the original one was. What about the lower income people who don't owe enough to benefit from the credit, for example people like me who are on Social Security? Why does the exact same vehicle cost us up to *$7500 MORE* than someone making $150,000/year?
Maybe foreign models that don't qualify will lower their prices, making them a better and more equitable purchase for me. _I'm sure that pushing people away from US automakers was exactly what the lobbyists were hoping for?_
Agree 100%. People always talking tax credits like as if it were cash on the hood which it most definitely is not, and forget about everyone with lower tax liability.
Shouldn’t EVs be measured by MPV or MPA or MPkw?
The idea was to create a measure that was "familiar" and could easily be understood by consumers cross-shopping ICE vehicles. But yeah.
Chevrolet Bolt currently from what I read is the only car made right now that qualifies for the full $7500 tax credit if you have over that amount in taxes. It is made in the US, it is sourced in the US and meets all the requirements for 100% tax credit.
Light Year Zero and Mercedes EQXX are over 200mpge efficient.
As far as I'm aware, the new tax act does actually take the credit off at purchase time, as opposed to the old style where it was a tax refund in the spring
Starting 2024, the 7500 will come off the price and not at the time of filing returns.
Talking about Toyota, the BZ4X has not been a crowning glory for reliability. :)
And then say Tesla is an unreliable brand. They are making EV powertrain well before anyone else. Model 3/Y powertrain is just rock solid with reports of hundreds of thousands miles from heavy users. Really sick of CR anti-Tesla climax.
@@suvari225 Consumer reports ratings are actually REAL customers/owners who report problems they have or are experiencing with their cars. Lets hear the facts you have to back up your statements. Plus, Toyota were the first to build an EV powertrain, surely you must have heard of the Prius? Was not a total EV but started the entire EV experiments.
Generally speaking, (less problems per unit within the car building industry), Toyota is king. You take more of a reliability risk with other new and especially used cars, based on actual owner reviews.
Michael's question is essentially, i want a low cost of daily running cheap compact suv with an average or better CR reliability rating. Kia Niro PHEV.
Joel's question: LOL. But CR is correct. It's how the transmission is tuned and reliability. Like don't get a vehicle with a Nissan CVT. For putting around, a Toyota CVT is fine. If you love cars, you want a modern ZF8 or PDK.
LOL on Mazda 3. Can't see back or lane change, no worry, b/c race car
If you only want your transmission to last about 100,000 miles before it blows up don't change the fluid. That's "LIFETIME." If you want it to last 2,3, and 400,000 miles or more, change it every 60,000 miles. Scotty Kilmer, The Car Care Nut, Toyota Maintenance and just about all mechanics will tell you if you want your transmission and car to last, change the transmission fluid every 60,000 miles.
Very few unserviced transmissions fail. Most outlast the rest of the car. Most transmission failures are from hard part failure not fluid related failure.
If the guy (Question #1) is looking to replace a plugin, I figure he is looking to replace it with another hybrid or plugin; so when he said he considered the Ford Escape, I assumed he meant the Ford Escape Hybrid or Plug-in, both of which get better reviews than the regular Ford Escape.
I am disappointed the CR panel did not acknowledge how they stated in a previous edition of Talking Cars that the Ford Escape is “the Escape done right.” (You can look it up!)
Full disclosure: I own a 2020 Ford Escape SE Sport Hybrid.
I’ve had no problems. There have been three recalls that Ford covered, which required I drop the car off for a half-day at the dealer.
Yes, it is clear Ford has had quality control issues.
Question #3 why didn't they suggest the Nissan Leaf? That's a fairly slow EV compared with the Tesla Model 3, and the Leaf is more reliable.
Toyota Camry, the crown jewel of the reliable cars, had transmission issues in first model year of 2018. Yes it is not hybrid, but 1st model year vehicle always bears the first seen problems.
On the other hand, Tesla Model 3/Y has been around for 3-5 years now. Lots of the issues (mainly cosmetic) are ironed out. And Tesla EV powertrain is proven bulletproof with the oldest history in the modern EV industry. Naming Tesla as unreliable brand is just criminal.
14:13 I think the Aptera is slated to hit that, but they need to make it to market first.
29:22 okay so what I heard from Rachelle's question is, and if I'm wrong please ignore, was "the improved fuel economy worth it the cost of upgrading to a newer car with better gas mileage"
If that is in fact what you are asking, the answer nine times out of 10 is "almost certainly no", and the reason for that is because of how unpredictable fuel prices are and how expensive new cars are.
To give an example, let's say you are looking to double your current fuel economy, at 100 miles a day and 25 miles per gallons (I believe your Altima get's around that) up to 50 miles per gallon. that's 2 gallons of gas saved per day, which means of a 20 day work week you are saving about $160 a month. If your Altima is paid off, there is no new car that will make up that difference. even for a modest car you are looking at around $400/month minimum.
these numbers start to get even worse when you factor in things like insurance cost, deprecation, maintenance, and so on.
The most economical thing you can do, assuming your Altima is still running fine, is drive it till it dies, saving as much money as possible so that when your new job inevitably consumes your current car with mileage, you have a nice big down payment to really reduce the size of the loan on your next car. which your job will probably eat too.
now if you Altima is unsafe, constantly breaking down, or you don't care about the economics you just want something better because you'll be spending all of your time in this car. Then by all means, go for it. But if your Altima is running fine, is safe, and you don't mind the car, then driving it and putting the money you would have spent on a new car payment into a savings account is the economically smart move. especially if it's all or mostly paid off.
And about reliability of final vs first model year - yes get the final except 2013 Subaru impreza which was the final year before a major remodel has below average reliability but the redisign 2014 has above average reliability. Go figure.
New cars that are outgoing models tend to be cheaper too. Consumers....
If you wanna zoom your meetings and allow hybrid office, go ahead, by why can't your most popular social media outlet be in person... its just annoying.
covid still exist you know
Toyota and Honda are sleep walking into the future. They are looking to the past and projecting it forward.
EV adoption is accelerating every year. Exponential not linear. The only limiting factor is batteries.
The number of electric vehicles and types of vehicles and trucks is growing.
Electric vehicles are just better. No noise, no emissions, less fuel costs, less maintenance costs and amazing technology. Gasoline and diesel are OLD polluting technology. PHEVs still have a gasoline engine polluting the environment. Toyota and Honda will be late to the party. It will cost them market share, market value and future customers. There is a Climate Crisis. Young people will not buy petrol and diesel vehicles that add to the Climate Crisis.
Wow, you sound like AL Gore. You're one of these people that falsely believe recharging an EV is always only going to cost a few dollars.
Hybrid technology is reliable, efficient and cost-effective. Charging, battery cost and EV availability is still a challenge.
And the taxpayers get to pay for all these rebates. I'm sick of paying for other people's stuff.
Become a multimillionaire, then you won't have to pay any. Problem solved.
👏👏👏👏
lol, and yet we are sending BILLIONS overseas and few ever even think about it.
Back not by popular demand. FULL MALE WHITE TESTOSTERONE. This seems a Nuremberg rally!
Lmao please, the 2 on the right seem like little hats. I'll take these guys over the nails on a chalkboard voiced red head lady anyday.