I know it's an old video and you may not see this but this was a perfect how to video I'll be doing thin on my new to me 350L and now I know it will be a fairly easy replacement, and you taught me how to adjust my oil injection as a bonus.
So I love your video I compliment you one of the clearest most understanding videos I have watched yet on this machine, if you could tell me how to do the starter and a solenoid I would so be so grateful
My Fuller flipped the battery flu out ripped the solenoid off and I don't know which wires to hook back up to make it work properly with the ignition and the electric start any help would be grateful again compliment on your video
The starter solenoid is fairly easy to wire-up. You have two poles, with a nut for each. The pole on the left is for the big cable coming from the starter. The pole on the right is for the connection to the positive terminal on the battery. a small red wire comes from the start button and is wired to the red wire on the solenoid. When you press the start button, that feeds a small 12 volt current to the solenoid, which closes the switch and allows the voltage from the battery to flow to the starter. If it ripped out, you need to find the wire coming from the start switch and maybe replace part of the wiring. You may also need to replace the cable from the solenoid to the positive terminal on the battery.
The clip goes on the jet needle in one of 5 positions. Move the clip down to make the air/fuel mixture richer. Move the clip up to make it leaner. After you install the clip, slide the plastic washer up from the bottom, onto the jet needle. The clip rests on the plastic washer. Drop the jet needle into the slide. The spring needs to be compressed into the cap, so the throttle cable is long enough to reach down into the slide and insert into the slot. Keep the spring compressed while you drop the metal plate into the slide, to keep the throttle cable and jet needle from coming out. The pressure from the spring will keep the plate in place.
In my experience, the cheaper cables that you find on Ebay work just as good as the $130 dealer cable. However, I did get one cable from a vendor that was a little too cheap. Compare the cables and pick the one that most resembles your existing cable. If you're unsure, mfgsupply.com sells Polaris cables that are good quality at a decent price.
I have a 96 polaris 2 stroke 400 sportsman. I run on premix. I was told by the engine rebuilder that disconnecting the cable to the oil injector system would alter the return spring tension on the throttle cable system thru the yoke system of the cables. I just plugged the oil injector line and run that way. Nothing would be worse than having the oil injector system fail and end up running on straight gas.I yearly need to lube the cables as they bind up in the winter.
@@lorettacaputo6997 I'm also having an issue with the cables sticking on my 97 sportsman, going to try n free up the throttle cable and disconnect my oil pump and just mix gas as well. New to the atv world so was wondering what you did to free up you're cables as I live in Canada and it's very cold. Thanks.
@@curtssevenfootmuskie1456 Purchase a throttle cable lubricator tool. You can get them off of Ebay. Remove the cable that is sticking and insert into the tool. Pressurized lubricant is shot into the tool which then goes down into the cable. On my Polaris I hit the cable at the throttle end and then removed the cable from the top of the Makuni carb. Works like a charm. Maybe once a year I need to repeat, especially in cold weather.
On my 95 XPlorer, the cable that feeds through the oil pump housing was not designed to allow the ferrule to spin, subsequently forcing me to apply that end first (while spinning the entire throttle cable assembly) and then connect to throttle and carb afterward. This makes it impossible to adjust the oil pump after cable is installed without binding the cable). As I wish to replace the throttle cable soon, can you (or anyone) advise if replacement cables (OEM or aftermarket) are designed to allow that oil pump end to spin freely around the cable sheath at the oil pump? Your video didn’t include that step. Thanks much!
I know it's an old video and you may not see this but this was a perfect how to video I'll be doing thin on my new to me 350L and now I know it will be a fairly easy replacement, and you taught me how to adjust my oil injection as a bonus.
Great video. I’m going to tackle replacing my cable this weekend. Thanks a bunch for creating this!!!
Thanks so much! Great video with lots of detail. So helpful. Don't know why this video doesn't have more thumbs up votes.
So I love your video I compliment you one of the clearest most understanding videos I have watched yet on this machine, if you could tell me how to do the starter and a solenoid I would so be so grateful
Thank you for the info, especially oil pump area
Great Video. I'm having problem with mine sticking. Now I know how to replace it. Thanks!
Thank you Sir. I appreciate this video. I am having throttle stick so I'm pretty sure I will need to replace my cable.
Any experience replacing the oil injector? Cant find one video on that.
Thanks for the video really helpful
My Fuller flipped the battery flu out ripped the solenoid off and I don't know which wires to hook back up to make it work properly with the ignition and the electric start any help would be grateful again compliment on your video
The starter solenoid is fairly easy to wire-up. You have two poles, with a nut for each. The pole on the left is for the big cable coming from the starter. The pole on the right is for the connection to the positive terminal on the battery. a small red wire comes from the start button and is wired to the red wire on the solenoid. When you press the start button, that feeds a small 12 volt current to the solenoid, which closes the switch and allows the voltage from the battery to flow to the starter. If it ripped out, you need to find the wire coming from the start switch and maybe replace part of the wiring. You may also need to replace the cable from the solenoid to the positive terminal on the battery.
Which way does the little washer/ clip go that hold the needle in where the spring sits on it?
The clip goes on the jet needle in one of 5 positions. Move the clip down to make the air/fuel mixture richer. Move the clip up to make it leaner. After you install the clip, slide the plastic washer up from the bottom, onto the jet needle. The clip rests on the plastic washer. Drop the jet needle into the slide. The spring needs to be compressed into the cap, so the throttle cable is long enough to reach down into the slide and insert into the slot. Keep the spring compressed while you drop the metal plate into the slide, to keep the throttle cable and jet needle from coming out. The pressure from the spring will keep the plate in place.
any suggestion on the which cable to buy? 99 xplorer400. the oem ones are $130.. are the $30 ones direct bolt in?
The third-party throttle cables that sell for about $30-35 work just as good as the Polaris cable and are much cheaper.
In my experience, the cheaper cables that you find on Ebay work just as good as the $130 dealer cable. However, I did get one cable from a vendor that was a little too cheap. Compare the cables and pick the one that most resembles your existing cable. If you're unsure, mfgsupply.com sells Polaris cables that are good quality at a decent price.
Mines revving when i turn the handlebars.
Main thing I came for was cut out. I cant get my cable out the carb cap
If i mix the gas and oil on it myself can i not bother plugging the oil side in
I have a 96 polaris 2 stroke 400 sportsman. I run on premix. I was told by the engine rebuilder that disconnecting the cable to the oil injector system would alter the return spring tension on the throttle cable system thru the yoke system of the cables. I just plugged the oil injector line and run that way. Nothing would be worse than having the oil injector system fail and end up running on straight gas.I yearly need to lube the cables as they bind up in the winter.
@@lorettacaputo6997 I'm also having an issue with the cables sticking on my 97 sportsman, going to try n free up the throttle cable and disconnect my oil pump and just mix gas as well. New to the atv world so was wondering what you did to free up you're cables as I live in Canada and it's very cold. Thanks.
@@curtssevenfootmuskie1456 Purchase a throttle cable lubricator tool. You can get them off of Ebay. Remove the cable that is sticking and insert into the tool. Pressurized lubricant is shot into the tool which then goes down into the cable. On my Polaris I hit the cable at the throttle end and then removed the cable from the top of the Makuni carb. Works like a charm. Maybe once a year I need to repeat, especially in cold weather.
On my 95 XPlorer, the cable that feeds through the oil pump housing was not designed to allow the ferrule to spin, subsequently forcing me to apply that end first (while spinning the entire throttle cable assembly) and then connect to throttle and carb afterward. This makes it impossible to adjust the oil pump after cable is installed without binding the cable). As I wish to replace the throttle cable soon, can you (or anyone) advise if replacement cables (OEM or aftermarket) are designed to allow that oil pump end to spin freely around the cable sheath at the oil pump? Your video didn’t include that step. Thanks much!