I got this lens for close-up shots, where I want what is in the center to be sharp, and the edges to be blurry/darker to not distract from the center. Great for close-up shots of flowers in the Spring and Summer and autumn leaves in the Fall. Looks real bad-ass on the Pen-F!!!
Thanks so much for this comprehensive and very clear review. I already own the Lumix 25mm f1.7. I enjoy using it, I like the plastic build, it is durable and it is so light. But I have ordered the TTArtisan ;-) I want to try this style of lens and push myself.
Thanks for your review Rob. I particularly like the retro look of the version of said lens with a silver focussing ring. Looks great on silver OM cameras.
Nice review. Did you notice the light gathering difference of TT@1.4 vs the Oly@1.8? Panasonic and Olympus have 1.4 lenses is the same general focal range (20mm-25mm) at a much higher price. This lens seems to be a great compromise for all of those once no issues with MF.
Nice review, Rob! I have the TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4. I use it on my Pen-F a lot. It is crazy sharp from f/4 to f/8, and cost even less than this lens ~ $75
Thank you. It may be me, or my screen, or the RUclips compression but to me the Olympus had the better "look" on all occasions. By way of comparison my Chinon (PK) 50mm f/1.4 is a fantastic lens on film but when adapted needs to be stopped down. As it has no stop between f/1.4 and f/2 and that means the Olympus 45mm f/1.8 which can be used wide open (doesn't mean should) simply out-performs it. Having "digital" glass, the light incidence, can make a difference. I now regret parting with the Leica 25mmf/1.4 but I use the pancake Lumix 20mm f/1.7 far more, so often in fact that I have two of them. The Leica was diamond sharp. If I want wider I use a zoom, PZ14-42 or something. Primes for standard and portrait, zoom to fill in the gaps. A nice wide prime for landscape might be nice but doesn't have to be fast, landscapes don't rush about, we have tripods. Primes are usually better than a zoom but a good zoom will be better than a poor prime. I don't think there are any poor native MFT lenses. Some adapted old lenses are excellent, others are disgusting, used price is not a good guide. Having AF can be important. With film SLR we had a focussing screen which made manual focussing quite easy. It's not so easy with digital even with focus peaking. Contrast detection AF is actually more accurate than phase detection. The way CD works means it has to be spot-on or it will fail to lock. Phase detection will lock when light waves match, which means, to use the audio analogy, it can match beats when not in unison. When tuning an instrument we hear beats between mismatched notes which cease at unison when they are synchronous, but they will also synchronise at some intervals; phase detection can do that too. Contrast detection has to be spot-on or it doesn't work. Which can give the impression that PD will lock when CD is still hunting. It's not, that PD has probably locked off the money because that's the best it can do in the situation. CD does need to find some contrast between focus points, or it plays dumb insolence. Vignetting - I always leave the highlight/shadow (vignetting) correction turned off (not corrected) as I prefer the "look" of the slightly darker corners. It looks more traditional on a photograph and masks the slight softness in the corners. Natural vignetting is an artistic tool you can use, fiddle with the aperture. But that's me, ymmv ;)
Similar experience with the TTArtisan 50mm f/1.2. Pretty sharp after f/3.5 but one loses the light gathering capability of those lower stops for astro photo's to keep the image sharp. It's built like a tank with a threaded cap so no worries about losing it.
Are the zone focus markings accurate for m43? I know a lot of these lenses are available for both apsc and m43, which makes me suspicious whether the same design and markings are used, and thus whether the zone focus markings are accurate or not across sensor sizes.
I'm not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure sensor size would not affect the DOF markings. The markings are rather tight together, so best to do it manually anyway. Use a DOF calculator. www.photopills.com/calculators/dof 23mm, f/8, 3 meters = 1.79m to 9.24m in-focus.
There seem to be a very wide variety of Artisan lens for most systems. Clearly, they are excellent value for money. However, the non Pro OMD series are not expensive and also very easy to pick up 2nd hand. Nothing against Artisan, however, I would simply prefer to retain the excellent quality of the OE lens.
I think it safe to say that there are no poor native MFT lenses (i.e. from Olympus, Panasonic or Sigma). The sharpest fast standard MFT lens I've had is by far and away the Leica 25mm f1.4. The Olympus is good but slower. The Lumix Pancake 20mm f/1.7, if you delve into the exif is an unbadged Leica, on par with the Olympus 25mm f/1.8 here and slightly cheaper. Used lenses are usually pretty good condition and of course cheaper. I can barely remember buying a brand new lens. A used Leica 25 is back on my wish list, but then so is a 70 and a 17 or a 15 ... ;) And I don't really see the point of paying extra for the new weatherproof version, I don't use a camera in the shower. Weatherproof sometimes means the rings feel sticky because of the seals.
@@jeffslade1892 Agree on all points Jeff. Btw, do not have renegade pesos to spare , however, saved for years' & when prices tanked GFC, purchased a lovely film Leica M 6+ Summicron 50/2 & 35/2 Aspherical. Whilst clearly prefer AF when there will be subject movement, the manual rangefinder focussing on those 2 lens is uba fast and accurate. The, now, 20 year old Summicron 50/2 is easily the best lens I have owned Don't have the money, or need, to even last for a mainly expensive Noctilux. The lovely M6, in the hand, rreminds me very much of the2 mint Pen Fs I was luck enough to purchase,again 2nd hand, with low shutter counts.
@@robertcudlipp3426 I also have a Chinon 50mm f/1.9 which is quite disgusting (as well as the Chinon 50mm f/1.4) - the front element is wonky. I can fix lenses but it's pretty much BER. My film SLR is a Chinon, PK fit so most Pentax lenses too but Chinon glass was slightly better than Pentax (Chinon became Kodak-Japan, so there's a MFT link there). PK(A)-MFT adapter. When we consider that the Olly Pro 45mm f/1.2 is £1200 quid, the nifty fifty Chinon makes sense for under £75 (but the 45mm f/1.8 is the better lens). A used Panny-Leica 25mm f/1.4 can be had for the new price of an Olly 45mm f/1.8. The Leica is a great lens, wish list but not sure I need it as I have other lenses that fill that gap I'm currently arguing with my PEN-F about using off-camera flash, some of the modes being greyed-out. With MFT we are not restricted to the olde slow film speeds, so ultra-fast lenses are not entirely necessary for exposure, only DoF. My PEN-F was used and slightly battered but it scrubbed up well. Yes, I can clean cameras. My G9 was used too and lacks the door rubber, but that doesn't bother me. Retired I lack funds, and don't see the point of buying new.
Hi, I currently have a Pen-F and Sigma 30mm 1,4 and am very happy but unfortunately too big. I am interested in a bright compact lens mainly for street photography and I am undecided between the two TTartisan lenses 23mm 1,4 (plus compactness) and the 17mm (plus focal but less compact) what do you recommend? I would have doubts about their sharpness or rather the potential they have in post-production between the two lenses both with open and closed aperture.
I prefer the 17mm focal length for street. Unfortunately, I don't own the TTArtisan 17mm, so I can't tell you about it performance. Check out Red35 ruclips.net/video/UbXPF3XSoEM/видео.html review.
I don't think there are different versions. Might be a quality control issue where mine doesn't have as a definitive click as his. Mine clicks, it's just very dampened.
@@RobTrek The clicks are not absolutely necessary. You can also use the lens between the aperture stops, as it suits you. The click is only helpful in order not to adjust the aperture unintentionally. Some modern lenses no longer have aperture clicks.
Reliable and great review... as always. Good job Rob. 👍👍👍
Thanks!
I got this lens for close-up shots, where I want what is in the center to be sharp, and the edges to be blurry/darker to not distract from the center. Great for close-up shots of flowers in the Spring and Summer and autumn leaves in the Fall. Looks real bad-ass on the Pen-F!!!
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much for this comprehensive and very clear review. I already own the Lumix 25mm f1.7. I enjoy using it, I like the plastic build, it is durable and it is so light. But I have ordered the TTArtisan ;-) I want to try this style of lens and push myself.
The TTartisan was a real joy to use on photowalks. I used the magnify function to nail focus.
Thanks for your review Rob. I particularly like the retro look of the version of said lens with a silver focussing ring. Looks great on silver OM cameras.
I like the both but prefer the all black.
Excellent Tutorial Video. Thank You.
Glad it was helpful!
Lovely presentation, beautiful photos and the TTArtisan lens has pricked my interest.
Thanks! It's a fun lens.
Nice review. Did you notice the light gathering difference of TT@1.4 vs the Oly@1.8? Panasonic and Olympus have 1.4 lenses is the same general focal range (20mm-25mm) at a much higher price. This lens seems to be a great compromise for all of those once no issues with MF.
Nice review, Rob! I have the TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4. I use it on my Pen-F a lot. It is crazy sharp from f/4 to f/8, and cost even less than this lens ~ $75
Thanks. 35mm is a bit tight but not bad.
Thank you.
It may be me, or my screen, or the RUclips compression but to me the Olympus had the better "look" on all occasions.
By way of comparison my Chinon (PK) 50mm f/1.4 is a fantastic lens on film but when adapted needs to be stopped down. As it has no stop between f/1.4 and f/2 and that means the Olympus 45mm f/1.8 which can be used wide open (doesn't mean should) simply out-performs it. Having "digital" glass, the light incidence, can make a difference.
I now regret parting with the Leica 25mmf/1.4 but I use the pancake Lumix 20mm f/1.7 far more, so often in fact that I have two of them. The Leica was diamond sharp. If I want wider I use a zoom, PZ14-42 or something. Primes for standard and portrait, zoom to fill in the gaps. A nice wide prime for landscape might be nice but doesn't have to be fast, landscapes don't rush about, we have tripods. Primes are usually better than a zoom but a good zoom will be better than a poor prime. I don't think there are any poor native MFT lenses. Some adapted old lenses are excellent, others are disgusting, used price is not a good guide.
Having AF can be important. With film SLR we had a focussing screen which made manual focussing quite easy. It's not so easy with digital even with focus peaking. Contrast detection AF is actually more accurate than phase detection. The way CD works means it has to be spot-on or it will fail to lock. Phase detection will lock when light waves match, which means, to use the audio analogy, it can match beats when not in unison. When tuning an instrument we hear beats between mismatched notes which cease at unison when they are synchronous, but they will also synchronise at some intervals; phase detection can do that too. Contrast detection has to be spot-on or it doesn't work. Which can give the impression that PD will lock when CD is still hunting. It's not, that PD has probably locked off the money because that's the best it can do in the situation. CD does need to find some contrast between focus points, or it plays dumb insolence.
Vignetting - I always leave the highlight/shadow (vignetting) correction turned off (not corrected) as I prefer the "look" of the slightly darker corners. It looks more traditional on a photograph and masks the slight softness in the corners. Natural vignetting is an artistic tool you can use, fiddle with the aperture. But that's me, ymmv ;)
Thanks for sharing your experience and detailed feedback!
Similar experience with the TTArtisan 50mm f/1.2. Pretty sharp after f/3.5 but one loses the light gathering capability of those lower stops for astro photo's to keep the image sharp. It's built like a tank with a threaded cap so no worries about losing it.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Are the zone focus markings accurate for m43? I know a lot of these lenses are available for both apsc and m43, which makes me suspicious whether the same design and markings are used, and thus whether the zone focus markings are accurate or not across sensor sizes.
I'm not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure sensor size would not affect the DOF markings. The markings are rather tight together, so best to do it manually anyway. Use a DOF calculator. www.photopills.com/calculators/dof
23mm, f/8, 3 meters = 1.79m to 9.24m in-focus.
Based on what I see, reasonably good lens and a great buy at this price.
Yes, at this price it's a good lens.
There seem to be a very wide variety of Artisan lens for most systems.
Clearly, they are excellent value for money.
However, the non Pro OMD series are not expensive and also very easy to pick up 2nd hand.
Nothing against Artisan, however, I would simply prefer to retain the excellent quality of the OE lens.
Absolutely no disagreement here. The OE lenses are top notch and can usually be had much cheaper on the used market.
I think it safe to say that there are no poor native MFT lenses (i.e. from Olympus, Panasonic or Sigma).
The sharpest fast standard MFT lens I've had is by far and away the Leica 25mm f1.4. The Olympus is good but slower. The Lumix Pancake 20mm f/1.7, if you delve into the exif is an unbadged Leica, on par with the Olympus 25mm f/1.8 here and slightly cheaper.
Used lenses are usually pretty good condition and of course cheaper. I can barely remember buying a brand new lens.
A used Leica 25 is back on my wish list, but then so is a 70 and a 17 or a 15 ... ;)
And I don't really see the point of paying extra for the new weatherproof version, I don't use a camera in the shower. Weatherproof sometimes means the rings feel sticky because of the seals.
@@jeffslade1892 Agree on all points Jeff. Btw, do not have renegade pesos to spare , however, saved for years' & when prices tanked GFC, purchased a lovely film Leica M 6+ Summicron 50/2 & 35/2 Aspherical. Whilst clearly prefer AF when there will be subject movement, the manual rangefinder focussing on those 2 lens is uba fast and accurate.
The, now, 20 year old Summicron 50/2 is easily the best lens I have owned
Don't have the money, or need, to even last for a mainly expensive Noctilux.
The lovely M6, in the hand, rreminds me very much of the2 mint Pen Fs I was luck enough to purchase,again 2nd hand, with low shutter counts.
@@robertcudlipp3426 I also have a Chinon 50mm f/1.9 which is quite disgusting (as well as the Chinon 50mm f/1.4) - the front element is wonky. I can fix lenses but it's pretty much BER. My film SLR is a Chinon, PK fit so most Pentax lenses too but Chinon glass was slightly better than Pentax (Chinon became Kodak-Japan, so there's a MFT link there). PK(A)-MFT adapter.
When we consider that the Olly Pro 45mm f/1.2 is £1200 quid, the nifty fifty Chinon makes sense for under £75 (but the 45mm f/1.8 is the better lens).
A used Panny-Leica 25mm f/1.4 can be had for the new price of an Olly 45mm f/1.8. The Leica is a great lens, wish list but not sure I need it as I have other lenses that fill that gap
I'm currently arguing with my PEN-F about using off-camera flash, some of the modes being greyed-out. With MFT we are not restricted to the olde slow film speeds, so ultra-fast lenses are not entirely necessary for exposure, only DoF.
My PEN-F was used and slightly battered but it scrubbed up well. Yes, I can clean cameras. My G9 was used too and lacks the door rubber, but that doesn't bother me. Retired I lack funds, and don't see the point of buying new.
Hi, I currently have a Pen-F and Sigma 30mm 1,4 and am very happy but unfortunately too big.
I am interested in a bright compact lens mainly for street photography and I am undecided between the two TTartisan lenses 23mm 1,4 (plus compactness) and the 17mm (plus focal but less compact) what do you recommend? I would have doubts about their sharpness or rather the potential they have in post-production between the two lenses both with open and closed aperture.
I prefer the 17mm focal length for street. Unfortunately, I don't own the TTArtisan 17mm, so I can't tell you about it performance. Check out Red35 ruclips.net/video/UbXPF3XSoEM/видео.html review.
I have both the TTA 17mm and 23mm -- I prefer the later for IQ and handling.
RED35 reviewed this and his had a clicked aperture. Are there different versions that you're aware of? Or is it hit and miss?
I don't think there are different versions. Might be a quality control issue where mine doesn't have as a definitive click as his. Mine clicks, it's just very dampened.
@@RobTrek I have exactly the same complaint about the aperture ring of my TTArtisan lens as well. I was a bit disappointed when I received my copy.
@@RobTrek The clicks are not absolutely necessary. You can also use the lens between the aperture stops, as it suits you. The click is only helpful in order not to adjust the aperture unintentionally. Some modern lenses no longer have aperture clicks.
The TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 has a very nice click to the aperture ring, this one does not.
I will stick with my 25mm 1.8.
Absolutely!
Might I politely ask you why would you use gloves?
My hands are cold.
@@RobTrek Fair enough