You might appreciate a 1/4" air angle grinder for some of the tight grinding. You can regulate the rpm's better than a 4" electric grinder. Just a little more precision. I have some cheep Harbor Freight ones and a couple Ingersol Rand's for the times I use it more. I keep a cut off wheel in one, a wire brush in another, a grinding wheel in another, etc. / with a real flexible hose to it.
Funny you say that, I did recently upgrade to a 1/4 air angle grinder and it is now my go to for grinding welds. So much more control and precision as you mentioned above. Thanks for sharing and checking out my video.
@@cvclassics Yes, no more burn trough's or grinding things you don't want to. I bought a Miller hand held spot welder and after I plug weld and grind off that weld, I take the spot welder over the top and it looks like a perfect spot weld, but only a lot stronger. For most people this isn't a real big deal, I get it,,,, but to a purist who doesn't want anyone to pick his car apart, it will pass under most inspections as if it was never messed with.
Loving the content! Im finally getting my 68 coupe up and running. It's been sitting since 2010 when the head gaskets failed. I got it in 99 when I was in the Navy. It's been waiting long enough. Once I get the mechanical part taken care of, Im going to start on the cosmetic. What you're doing will be my goal as well. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I really appreciate your videos. You have the most information on how to do this than all the other conversion videos. All my parts are coming in Monday so the timing was good. Only real difference on mine is I opted for the sides in pieces as opposed to assembled for $2k less. There is not much information about assembling those out there, so I have to see what information I can get.
At per-assembly always lay the glass in. The gap needs to be all around the same. On these aftermarket sheet metal parts the measurements are all over the place. The only thing you can trust, is the glass.
@@cvclassics Thank you for your attention, yes I would like to know the length of the dashboard and also the interior distance of the car between the doors pillars in centimeters
I am only able to measure in inches you can use google to convert. The dash measures 52 1/4 inches and the pillars just beyond the dash measure 52 5/8 inches. Hope that helps
Thank you for posting your videos. They are the most detailed of all the fastback conversion videos posted. Vey helpful.
I’m glad you like them thanks for checking out my videos
Nice work. Alot of great details shared. Makes me think I could almost tackle this job. 😆 🤣 😂
Thanks for checking out my video.
You might appreciate a 1/4" air angle grinder for some of the tight grinding. You can regulate the rpm's better than a 4" electric grinder. Just a little more precision. I have some cheep Harbor Freight ones and a couple Ingersol Rand's for the times I use it more. I keep a cut off wheel in one, a wire brush in another, a grinding wheel in another, etc. / with a real flexible hose to it.
Funny you say that, I did recently upgrade to a 1/4 air angle grinder and it is now my go to for grinding welds. So much more control and precision as you mentioned above. Thanks for sharing and checking out my video.
@@cvclassics Yes, no more burn trough's or grinding things you don't want to. I bought a Miller hand held spot welder and after I plug weld and grind off that weld, I take the spot welder over the top and it looks like a perfect spot weld, but only a lot stronger. For most people this isn't a real big deal, I get it,,,, but to a purist who doesn't want anyone to pick his car apart, it will pass under most inspections as if it was never messed with.
Loving the content! Im finally getting my 68 coupe up and running. It's been sitting since 2010 when the head gaskets failed. I got it in 99 when I was in the Navy. It's been waiting long enough. Once I get the mechanical part taken care of, Im going to start on the cosmetic. What you're doing will be my goal as well. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
That’s awesome, Thanks for sharing and checking out my videos. Good luck with your build!
Kara que trampo massa... parabéns!!!! meu sonho fazer um mustang desses...
Thank you, I hope your dream comes true!
I really appreciate your videos. You have the most information on how to do this than all the other conversion videos. All my parts are coming in Monday so the timing was good. Only real difference on mine is I opted for the sides in pieces as opposed to assembled for $2k less. There is not much information about assembling those out there, so I have to see what information I can get.
I appreciate you watching and commenting. I am glad my vids are helpful. Best of luck on your project!
At per-assembly always lay the glass in. The gap needs to be all around the same. On these aftermarket sheet metal parts the measurements are all over the place. The only thing you can trust, is the glass.
Agreed, thanks for check g out my video
What brand of weld-through primer do you recommend?
Don’t really have a particular brand. Just look for a quality brand or talk to your welding shop for advice.
Hi, please what is the length of the dashboard of this Mustang in centimeters? thank you and good continuation for the future
Hello. Are you looking for the measurement of the dash, or the inner windshield pillars.
@@cvclassics Thank you for your attention, yes I would like to know the length of the dashboard and also the interior distance of the car between the doors pillars in centimeters
@@cvclassics Hello, Please if you can, I need these measurements
I am only able to measure in inches you can use google to convert. The dash measures 52 1/4 inches and the pillars just beyond the dash measure 52 5/8 inches. Hope that helps
Who is the metal panel manufacturer you are using?
Dynacorn
Can you use wood 2x4 to support car inside
No the interior welded frame is the support and safety for the car. Remember these are unibody cars and use the structure for strength