I really appreciate all of the extra miles you went. You did a fantastic job, and it made for a solid video which hopefully does well in views. I'm also grateful that you didn't have it held in your rebar cutter while you took a flap disc to the machined surface to "Smooth out the bottom a little."
Glad it went better for you than Keith Rucker. I just got the 98-18 yesterday, broken vial, for only $5 with the box. Soaking the base in warm water now to get rid of cement splatter of all things. Haven't taken the tube apart yet, but ends seem to be free enough on both ends to remove. Will soak that in water as well to remove internal plaster. And will be watching for those springs. Nice video and a new subscriber here.
Lol, yeah Keith had a bad day with his. This one actually came apart much easier than I expected. I believe his was corroded badly. Yes, the hot water soak is the way to go for that plaster. Takes awhile but it will dissolve. All the best!
Love seeing the progress! Always nice to see someone progress with they're shop set ups and tooling acquisitions. Can't wait to see the lathe in action!
on mine the logo is on the cupped side. thanks for the video, I just got one of these from a sketchy eBay seller, who shipped it in a box lose with a bunch of other things, and smashed the vial.
Well, your video is very realistic lol. A few considerations that might help you in the future: - when making the spring you should’ve formed using a small ball pen punch, working on the middle of the metal piece you had, what would make it easier to form it and cut around to end up with the spring. - the springs are magnetized so they won’t fall when you take it apart, but it’s not a sure science - nowadays they use a thin sheet of Teflon around the tube to create the drag necessary, since those springs were a BEACH to try the repair and avoid losing them - Removing the caps, you did it right, but after you remove one side, you can insert an short aluminum rod that is a little smaller than the inside of the tube then you hit the rod on your bench or on the floor to push the other one out - when assembling it, you set the two ends, and align them the best you can, and usually, if you clean them up pretty good and oil them before inserting it, it will go in much easier by hand. You can even light sand it to remove any marks left from the removing process, and that will make wonders, just be careful not to go too far - if sanding and oiling up doesn’t work, you can carefully use a press to do it by inserting a cheap Phillips screwdriver in the cap hole that it isn’t concave and push it very very slowly. Avoid beating the metal tube as it may cause problems in the future - so you use a pair of parallel pliers and the Phillips screwdriver to adjust the ends to be aligned to the tube, also to each other I hope it helps! Thank you for your time putting the video together.
Hi Ed, I have done a few of these and found it easier to remove whichever plug comes out first and put that end in very hot water. This dissolves the plaster and makes centering the new vial pretty easy. One spring is plenty as it’s only to give the cover tube some light drag when turning it. Calibration is easy but can be frustrating as the 98 style level is so sensitive😂😂😂. Great job and I enjoyed watching your work. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺. Ps those ground vials are over $50AUD so I’m really careful.
Thanks! Yes someone else mentioned baking soda and hot water. I will definitely try that in the future. And yes calibration is frustrating, so frustrating that I almost do not know whether to trust it every time I handle it. I keep rechecking it expecting it to be of, lol. I was quite surprised I got the vial direct from Starrett for around $20 USD which I thought was reasonable. i ship to Australia quite a bit and that is not cheap especially now but you would think Starrett could get a few over there for better than $50. The tube did feel fine with one spring but it is really tight now.😁 All the best and thanks for watching! Eddie
@@theeddies Cheaper vials would be nice but it’s just the way it is here. By the time you add the poor $ conversation rate plus freight, we pay about double the price on most things from the US. I purchased two 98-6 vials from Starrett AU and a 98-12 vial from Amazon AU they were all about double the US price. Thanks for subscribing. 👍👍👍
It’s not that hard to adjust. My Master level is hard to adjust, but not that hard. It just takes some patience and experience. Whether one or two springs are used depends on how tightly the sleeves fit. If they’re tighter, one spring is fine. If it’s loose, then two springs are better. Also, for these who want to do this, just remember that plaster of Paris is gooey for several minutes depending on how much water is used. But then it sets up almost instantly. So mix it and use it immediately. Then put the ends in right away. If you fool around for even a minute or two, it might set up and the end pieces won’t go all the way back in. Then you have to take it apart and start over again. If you wack it when that happens, you will break the vial. New vials here in the USA now cost around $30. But it’s not the cost of a new vial, it’s having to go through the entire process again.
Thanks, yes I have learned a lot from Keith and was not trying to slag on him. Kudos to him for leaving that video up. We can learn just as much from mistakes as success in this game. This one was a cake walk compared to the trouble he ran into. All the best! Eddie
I just replaced the vial in the same exact model Starrett. It only had one spring and I'm sure it had never been taken apart. It had quite a bit of resistance to rotating, so I think they left the second spring out on purpose.
Note for others watching this: One of mine only has provisions for a single spring, as manufactured. The vial markings were different from more modern ones too, with only one small graduation inside each large graduation (line). So, it’s possible that yours was only made with one spring, in spite of having two spring seats. I suspect that they used casting investment and not plaster. It’s much harder.
It should be plaster. The idea is for it to come out fairly easily. The plaster just pushes against the vial to hold it in place. It’s not there to cement it in place.
I'm just trying to buy one of the vials now. It's the 98mm x 15mm version. The level is a British J. Rabone one. But the same as the 18" Starrett one. I am struggling. I found one & then went to pay for it. A 1 month delivery & with all imports etc comes in at $84 US. £60 British. So not worth repairing unless i can find one cheaper. Nice video though. Exactly how i stripped mine down. Regards. Steve.
Hello, Did you try Amazon. They have them for $23 here. Part number PT15024. Not sure about there though. Starrett has them for less than 20 but they never sent mine after 2 weeks when I ordered direct from them. They should not be more than $40 USD shipped from here. 84 sounds really excessive even with shipping and customs. If you want to buy one and have it sent to me I could send it to you for $12. Send me an email if you want to do something like that.
damn, I just watched Rucker's video, and it was painful to watch how brutal he was being with those end caps and the tube... The correct way to remove that stuck end is to go forward and backward with the turning, so that you don't end up galling something in there. drip a little penetrating oil in the gap, and let is sit... grip the bottom tang firmly in a milling machine vise that has jaws that are smooth and close perfectly parallel, like a kurt style vise. to get the second half off, grab the tube gently in a collet. On my 6" level, I was able to use the 9/16 collet in my bridgeport mill. Better would have been a 5C collet held in a collet block in a vise, so that you can grab about an 1" or so from the end and reduce the risk of putting to much torque on the tube. If mine had been more difficult to remove, I would have put a snug fitting piece of hardened drill rod in the hole of the tang, so that I could pull up gently as I rotated the cap back and forth a bit.
Yeah, it was not his finest work, lol. I was honestly surprised how easy this one came apart after watching his video. I had a similar thought to your collet idea but this one just came apart easy in the copper jawed vise and a few twists. I wish I would have done a better job with the old and the new plaster. It was suggested after to soak it for a day in water to soften it and that probably would have helped. As for Keith, I think he was first to admit he got into it and suffered a bit of target fixation as we old bikers like to say. Should have stepped back and adjusted his method to the problem instead of heavy handing it just to get it done. I have been in his place on occasion so cannot be too judging about it.
@@theeddies no need to do that with the plaster, it will harden up if you let it soak long. for the plaster to work best, it needs to be slightly more wet when you put it in. yours was mixed very dry. I usually put a small quantity of water in a small cup, and carefully sift in the plaster until no more will go into the water without making mounds in it. It almost starts to look like it's dry on the top. you can let it sit for a few minutes if you want, but much longer will become problematic. mix throughly at this point, and it should be about like pancake batter. hard to judge in small quantities. The big problem at this point is getting plaster into both ends while it's still viscous enough to settle on its own. I used a dowel with a couple of flutes cut into it, in order to shove the plaster all the way in. it's a bit of a waiting game as to when to apply a little more plaster, as if too soon, it will run out. But too late, and it's too hard to bond properly. I almost forgot to measure the depth of the hole to make sure that I could fit the plugs back in, and had to use a piece of wood to scrape some of it out again. Really at this point I need to wait a week for the plaster to dry, or put it into an oven about 170F for an hour or two in order to drive off residual moisture. This is probably one of the reasons the caps get stuck... they rust a bit from residual moisture in the plaster. I'm too impatient, and have only waited about 18 hours, and will put a thin coat of oil on the ends before I press them in. Thanks again for the Video, it made it a lot easier for me to tackle this, knowing what was inside! Still can't believe I didn't lose the little spring, even after you warned us about it! I managed to drop it twice, but both times it fell out on a table.
I don't work on another mans tool, and I refuse to let another man work on mine. Now, if a female of the species wants to work on my tool... well, I am open to discussions on the subject....
I really appreciate all of the extra miles you went. You did a fantastic job, and it made for a solid video which hopefully does well in views.
I'm also grateful that you didn't have it held in your rebar cutter while you took a flap disc to the machined surface to "Smooth out the bottom a little."
I thought about something like that but I am "just get it done" phase right now.
@@theeddies I can see this video being very helpful.
@@johnstrange6799 well that is what I strive for as you know, lol.
@@theeddies It's amusing that you're in your shop in a T shirt. It's Winter O'Clock over here. I think it was like 4 degrees overnight. I forget.
@@johnstrange6799 Well it was 74 degrees yesterday and 40 today. Typical bipolar winter.
Glad it went better for you than Keith Rucker. I just got the 98-18 yesterday, broken vial, for only $5 with the box. Soaking the base in warm water now to get rid of cement splatter of all things. Haven't taken the tube apart yet, but ends seem to be free enough on both ends to remove. Will soak that in water as well to remove internal plaster. And will be watching for those springs. Nice video and a new subscriber here.
Lol, yeah Keith had a bad day with his. This one actually came apart much easier than I expected. I believe his was corroded badly. Yes, the hot water soak is the way to go for that plaster. Takes awhile but it will dissolve. All the best!
Love seeing the progress! Always nice to see someone progress with they're shop set ups and tooling acquisitions. Can't wait to see the lathe in action!
Thanks Josh! I cannot wait either.
Great job . Another tool saved !
Thanks Max, it all went pretty well.
Experience replaces nothing but nothing replaces experience. There's a man who's fixed a few things in his life 8-)
Feeling profound Bill? Well said.
on mine the logo is on the cupped side. thanks for the video, I just got one of these from a sketchy eBay seller, who shipped it in a box lose with a bunch of other things, and smashed the vial.
Well, your video is very realistic lol. A few considerations that might help you in the future:
- when making the spring you should’ve formed using a small ball pen punch, working on the middle of the metal piece you had, what would make it easier to form it and cut around to end up with the spring.
- the springs are magnetized so they won’t fall when you take it apart, but it’s not a sure science
- nowadays they use a thin sheet of Teflon around the tube to create the drag necessary, since those springs were a BEACH to try the repair and avoid losing them
- Removing the caps, you did it right, but after you remove one side, you can insert an short aluminum rod that is a little smaller than the inside of the tube then you hit the rod on your bench or on the floor to push the other one out
- when assembling it, you set the two ends, and align them the best you can, and usually, if you clean them up pretty good and oil them before inserting it, it will go in much easier by hand. You can even light sand it to remove any marks left from the removing process, and that will make wonders, just be careful not to go too far
- if sanding and oiling up doesn’t work, you can carefully use a press to do it by inserting a cheap Phillips screwdriver in the cap hole that it isn’t concave and push it very very slowly. Avoid beating the metal tube as it may cause problems in the future
- so you use a pair of parallel pliers and the Phillips screwdriver to adjust the ends to be aligned to the tube, also to each other
I hope it helps! Thank you for your time putting the video together.
Thanks! Eddie
Gday Eddie, excellent repair, glad it was you doing it and not me, I’d be shitting razor blades, great job mate, cheers
Thanks Matty! I have to admit I was nervous about this one a bit.
Great repair Ed. opened a few things in the past that had a ball bearing detent I was unaware of, and of course I lost the ball ! Del.
I am sorry to hear about your lost ball, Del. Thanks!
@@theeddies Good job I started with 3 !
Hi Ed, I have done a few of these and found it easier to remove whichever plug comes out first and put that end in very hot water. This dissolves the plaster and makes centering the new vial pretty easy. One spring is plenty as it’s only to give the cover tube some light drag when turning it. Calibration is easy but can be frustrating as the 98 style level is so sensitive😂😂😂. Great job and I enjoyed watching your work. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺. Ps those ground vials are over $50AUD so I’m really careful.
Thanks! Yes someone else mentioned baking soda and hot water. I will definitely try that in the future. And yes calibration is frustrating, so frustrating that I almost do not know whether to trust it every time I handle it. I keep rechecking it expecting it to be of, lol. I was quite surprised I got the vial direct from Starrett for around $20 USD which I thought was reasonable. i ship to Australia quite a bit and that is not cheap especially now but you would think Starrett could get a few over there for better than $50.
The tube did feel fine with one spring but it is really tight now.😁
All the best and thanks for watching!
Eddie
@@theeddies Cheaper vials would be nice but it’s just the way it is here. By the time you add the poor $ conversation rate plus freight, we pay about double the price on most things from the US. I purchased two 98-6 vials from Starrett AU and a 98-12 vial from Amazon AU they were all about double the US price. Thanks for subscribing. 👍👍👍
It’s not that hard to adjust. My Master level is hard to adjust, but not that hard. It just takes some patience and experience. Whether one or two springs are used depends on how tightly the sleeves fit. If they’re tighter, one spring is fine. If it’s loose, then two springs are better.
Also, for these who want to do this, just remember that plaster of Paris is gooey for several minutes depending on how much water is used. But then it sets up almost instantly. So mix it and use it immediately. Then put the ends in right away. If you fool around for even a minute or two, it might set up and the end pieces won’t go all the way back in. Then you have to take it apart and start over again. If you wack it when that happens, you will break the vial. New vials here in the USA now cost around $30. But it’s not the cost of a new vial, it’s having to go through the entire process again.
Hello Eddie,
Nice work... I watched Keith's video, it was not one of his finest moments...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks, yes I have learned a lot from Keith and was not trying to slag on him. Kudos to him for leaving that video up. We can learn just as much from mistakes as success in this game. This one was a cake walk compared to the trouble he ran into. All the best!
Eddie
Have to admit I have never repaired another Mans Tool.
There is just no way to say it without it being a double entendre, lol.
Excellent fix Eddie 👍😁👍. Gonna have to read John's comments lol.
Cheers!
LOL, he did not bite, as it were. Thanks man. You want to beta test a spindle stop? See if it is useful?
I just replaced the vial in the same exact model Starrett. It only had one spring and I'm sure it had never been taken apart. It had quite a bit of resistance to rotating, so I think they left the second spring out on purpose.
Interesting, thanks!
Great job.
Thanks!
p.s. get you a set of PB swiss screwdrivers with parallel ground blades, so you don't tear up the slot in the screw. $$, but worth every penny.
Excellent!!! Bob
Thanks!
Note for others watching this:
One of mine only has provisions for a single spring, as manufactured.
The vial markings were different from more modern ones too, with only one small graduation inside each large graduation (line).
So, it’s possible that yours was only made with one spring, in spite of having two spring seats.
I suspect that they used casting investment and not plaster. It’s much harder.
That is interesting. Thanks for the info.
It should be plaster. The idea is for it to come out fairly easily. The plaster just pushes against the vial to hold it in place. It’s not there to cement it in place.
I'm just trying to buy one of the vials now. It's the 98mm x 15mm version. The level is a British J. Rabone one. But the same as the 18" Starrett one. I am struggling. I found one & then went to pay for it. A 1 month delivery & with all imports etc comes in at $84 US. £60 British. So not worth repairing unless i can find one cheaper. Nice video though. Exactly how i stripped mine down. Regards. Steve.
Hello,
Did you try Amazon. They have them for $23 here. Part number PT15024. Not sure about there though. Starrett has them for less than 20 but they never sent mine after 2 weeks when I ordered direct from them. They should not be more than $40 USD shipped from here. 84 sounds really excessive even with shipping and customs. If you want to buy one and have it sent to me I could send it to you for $12. Send me an email if you want to do something like that.
amzn.to/3N2lQ2w
98-6” level has only one detent for tension spring.
damn, I just watched Rucker's video, and it was painful to watch how brutal he was being with those end caps and the tube...
The correct way to remove that stuck end is to go forward and backward with the turning, so that you don't end up galling something in there. drip a little penetrating oil in the gap, and let is sit... grip the bottom tang firmly in a milling machine vise that has jaws that are smooth and close perfectly parallel, like a kurt style vise. to get the second half off, grab the tube gently in a collet. On my 6" level, I was able to use the 9/16 collet in my bridgeport mill. Better would have been a 5C collet held in a collet block in a vise, so that you can grab about an 1" or so from the end and reduce the risk of putting to much torque on the tube.
If mine had been more difficult to remove, I would have put a snug fitting piece of hardened drill rod in the hole of the tang, so that I could pull up gently as I rotated the cap back and forth a bit.
Yeah, it was not his finest work, lol. I was honestly surprised how easy this one came apart after watching his video. I had a similar thought to your collet idea but this one just came apart easy in the copper jawed vise and a few twists. I wish I would have done a better job with the old and the new plaster. It was suggested after to soak it for a day in water to soften it and that probably would have helped. As for Keith, I think he was first to admit he got into it and suffered a bit of target fixation as we old bikers like to say. Should have stepped back and adjusted his method to the problem instead of heavy handing it just to get it done. I have been in his place on occasion so cannot be too judging about it.
@@theeddies no need to do that with the plaster, it will harden up if you let it soak long. for the plaster to work best, it needs to be slightly more wet when you put it in. yours was mixed very dry. I usually put a small quantity of water in a small cup, and carefully sift in the plaster until no more will go into the water without making mounds in it. It almost starts to look like it's dry on the top. you can let it sit for a few minutes if you want, but much longer will become problematic. mix throughly at this point, and it should be about like pancake batter. hard to judge in small quantities. The big problem at this point is getting plaster into both ends while it's still viscous enough to settle on its own.
I used a dowel with a couple of flutes cut into it, in order to shove the plaster all the way in. it's a bit of a waiting game as to when to apply a little more plaster, as if too soon, it will run out. But too late, and it's too hard to bond properly. I almost forgot to measure the depth of the hole to make sure that I could fit the plugs back in, and had to use a piece of wood to scrape some of it out again.
Really at this point I need to wait a week for the plaster to dry, or put it into an oven about 170F for an hour or two in order to drive off residual moisture. This is probably one of the reasons the caps get stuck... they rust a bit from residual moisture in the plaster. I'm too impatient, and have only waited about 18 hours, and will put a thin coat of oil on the ends before I press them in.
Thanks again for the Video, it made it a lot easier for me to tackle this, knowing what was inside! Still can't believe I didn't lose the little spring, even after you warned us about it! I managed to drop it twice, but both times it fell out on a table.
Actually, that's 100% extra springs
Yes but they are only 1/2 the quality :-)
Thanks for the information. You sure are scared of John.
He's not so scary. Thanks for watching!
I don't work on another mans tool, and I refuse to let another man work on mine. Now, if a female of the species wants to work on my tool... well, I am open to discussions on the subject....
Boiling water and baking soda turns plaster to mush.
Wow, excellent to know. I never thought of dissolving the plaster. That would make disassembly much easier. Thanks!