Excellent video and I've pretty much settled on everything you've said here. Having already built a house in 2009, I now know what NOT to do. I did my homework and did a lot right, but there are several things I'd change. First, smaller footprint...much smaller. Our house is a 3,200 sqft walkout. Next house, half that or smaller, shed roof. Property taxes alone will be less than half, and that's a lifetime bill that only goes up. It will also allow me to do a lot more of the work myself. Also, garage/shop on the bottom, living space on top, no basement, and this is in -45C winter Saskatchewan. We're building on jackpine sand (which is as hard and dry as bedrock, so no piles required. No stairs, just an elevator. We can still use the stairs on the outside elevated deck if we need to move furniture or bigger stuff in, but the elevator will probably be big enough. Biggest gouging contractors the first time were (in order) the plumber, flooring, roofers, concrete, electrician, etc. I did the flooring and insulating myself, and also did the stucco on the ICF bottom. The plumber almost tripled the cost of materials (all electric, no gas) so when I found that out I told him to take them out and I went and got them myself, from the exact same supplier that he was getting them from. He wasn't happy, but who cares. He did really nice work that other trade guys I know still comment on, but he was gouging me bad. They quoted me $5,000 labour to install laminate, floating flooring, so I did that and the bathrooms myself (final cost $1.28 per sqft with Costco flooring). 14 years later, it still looks like new, even with two boys in the house. The guy everyone recommended to do finish trim wanted $5,000 for labour (for some reason these guys all had nice, round numbers...nothing suspicious there 😉). I balked and found a guy that my kitchen guy recommended and he did an excellent job for an hourly rate. Final cost, $2,300. Took him a week as we have a lot of big windows (and a 1,000 sqft vaulted ceiling). My point, look around and get lots of other quotes to avoid being gouged.
I KNEW it. I want to build my own home someday, and I'm either making them give me an exact cost breakdown or buying the stuff myself. I 1000% do not trust contractors.
Anytime you deviate from a basic square and a simple roof strong enough for the maximal snow, you are increasing the cost...every jog in the house and every extra gable adds to the cost...there is a reason many Iowa farm houses are a square 2 story with a simple roof.
As of Jan. 3, 2024, the "Daniels" Menards materials package is listed for $96,765 here in Illinois. That's a 20% increase from the $80,313 shown in the video.
I would be very interested to watch a video about the cost break down of the trades. As a potential owner builder, I know my lumber package is somewhat fixed, but the labor to build all aspects of the house are variable. I would really like a list of what to expect each trade / phase so I can have a better idea of what I should be able to. Example (with completely made up data): Framing - $X-$X sqft Siding - $X-$X sqft Rough Plumbing - $X-$X sqft Final Plumbing - $X-$X sqft Rough Electrical - $X-$X sqft Final Electrical - $X-$X sqft Dirtwork - $X-$X sqft Drywall - $X-$X sqft Insulation Installation (Bat) - $X-$X sqft
Going to depend largely on where you are and what your plan set looks like. Could also be effected by payment terms, who brings the materials, etc. Cost control is an art and a science. Takes a long time to break down. Where you building? Have a plan set?
Great suggestion. And including the local hourly rate and estimated hours that are used in the calculations could help us adjust the costs for our areas.
In my experience, it really comes down to how many trades of each there are in your area, and how busy they are. Plumbers were the most likely to quote me an outrageous price and it care when I told them to forget it, because there isn't many of them these days, and they are therfore pretty busy. Electricians are a dime a dozen in my area, so you have a lot more room to negotiate.
Great video. I work at menards, there are so many ways to reduce the cost of these packages. It’s kind of nickel and diming, but it adds up. Go in to the building materials desk and talk to the guys there, they can help :) First thing I’d do is change the siding on most of these packages. Many times it’s fiber cement or smart side, which is just absolutely nuts right now as far as cost goes.
I have clicked around on Menards website don't think I ever got their whole house packages location and then I live in SC and didn't see that they would ship.
That was a perfect explanation of how to look at the cost of a new home. I have looked into the elevator option and it's great. An oversize drive-in basement slab with 2 floors above that + an elevator can give a great bang for the buck, And older people will never worry about stairs. Keep it up.
@@constancekang9914 You are correct if there are city codes that require inspections every month. I have been arround elevator maintenance manny years and a well built elevator is almost maintenance free. Many commercial elevators, like in hospitals, are used constantly but a residential elevator is not.
I don`t think affordable house design is the right term here. its more like how to get the most footage for your money. Affordable is keeping total price as low as possible.
I saw a chart which showed that per square foot since 1973 prices have stayed about the same new home (adjusted for inflation.) How sad is that? New technology of the 21st century should make our homes more cheap. Of course labor is labor and should be paid well, but with more efficient building techniques that should also go down. That 197,000 or something dollar home should be 150,000 or less in 2023.
@@aloiswinzinger1160 always the excuse but they seem fine in Europe. When you count the costs savings vs having to break and dig a small part, it's not bad
My first option would be a single story, finished basement, and a small elevator to move stuff around. This would be my retirement home where square footage is not the priority but rather functional usage. The elevator was something I didn’t consider before.
Great video. I GC’ed my house 3 years ago. It was challenging but rewarding. I also saved $150-200k on a 4000 square ft home. I agree with your analysis. We are seeing more and more residential elevators in my area. My retirement house will have one. Another consideration architecturally is going up gives you more flexibility to allow light in living spaces. Things to watch out with room above the garage include HVAC and steel. I used a heeled attic truss and a mini split system.
@@Johnnyprc you obviously don't know what negotiating is. I used to negotiate all repairs for my rentals from ac replacement to roofs, electrical and plumbing. Out of work people will take jobs for less so they can eat too.
Actual cost if you hire a guy who will work with you on a weekly/monthly salary style basis you can build with all materials for about $75 per sq ft. Add $10 for land and prep. $85 all in. The numbers here include a significant mark up on materials and labor. Just fyi... build for 85 all in and be worth 135 per sq ft minimum up to 350 per sq ft.
Don't forget that certain rooms like bathrooms, kitchens etc have a much higher cost/sq foot than rooms like unfished basement or bedrooms. Odds are both of them have pretty similar sized kitchens so as a percentage of the house you end up with a much higher total cost/sq foot
How much less do you estimate the cost would be if no cabinets are installed in a kitchen? I want a very minimalist house and don't want the hassle of cleaning inside of cabinets or them taking up space. I will have a simple pantry closet to store all kitchen supplies and have a fridge, stove, sink and oven. Just something simple that I can wipe down without having all of those corners and shelves collecting dust.
Wow! Menards had a massive increase! The Daniel's model shown here went from $80,313 only two months ago when this video was uploaded, to $99,608! That's about a 25% increase in two months! My feeling is, hopefully folks will refuse to build right now thus causing a surplus in building supplies which should bring the prices back down. Supply and demand absolutely drives this market, as we're seeing. Are the increases mostly caused by lumber? If so then what about about alternatives to this?
Hi. Good video. I agree with a finished basement, but IMO, It has to be a daylight basement. My preference, is a ranch on a full basement. Two master on-suites on the main level with 2 more bedrooms in the basement. I do not like living space above the garage at all. The spaces are too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. From experience living in hot and cold climates, I do not like a 2-story house. Too uncomfortable. Upstairs is always HOT in both summer and winter. I am totally willing to pay more for a house that is comfortable all year round.
Hi Craig. You are so right on the living space over the garage. It takes careful consideration in the design and build process to make sure that space is comfortable. People forget that a room over the garage has only one warm wall and the floor is adjacent to the cold garage. So, insulation and HVAC needs to be carefully put together or the room is always too hot or too cold. Thanks for the comment.
Yep I am building a 4,500 sq ft house right now on a $150k budget. Doing it all myself except for the concrete basement walls. I own a sawmill and have plenty of trees. It’s definitely doable!
There is a discount lumber yard here where you can buy 150 sheet bundles of plywood for $11 per sheet. You have to buy the whole bundle but if you are building a house that’s not a problem. I agree, stay out of Lowes as much as possible
Great info! One thing I would like to add to what was said. Adding extra square footage of living space, will increase your property tax cost, so you may be saving a bunch up front, but you'll be paying more in the long run😑
Failed to discount the the 2 story square footage by the loss of usable SF due to stairs/elevator (4-8%) and keeping the primary bedroom/ensuite on the main floor which is difficult to include in the shrunken two story footprint.
If you have a full basement then you are already wasting that 40 sq ft or so for the stairs. Stacking the 2nd floor stairs over the basement stairs involves no further sacrifice.
Perhaps cheaper in the US, but here in Scandinavia, a sizeable amount of extra building codes are added when the number of floors are greater than one. The extra cost comes from structural integrity, (the building needs to be much stronger), preventing fire, so one needs to use more expensive non-flammable materials and/or labour intensive work. There's also requirements regarding escaping a fire, and avoiding fire death traps. The cost is about 50% more for the 2nd floor (compared to the ground floor), i.e. 2nd floor is 1.5 times ground floor (on average).
I think roof top patios are underestimated. Rest outside with no risk of strangers or animals. Pets could stay up there and a spice garden. I also like designing according to available timber measurements… less cuts if done right. Also design utilities along center wall with access wall.
Could you make a video comparing costs of a build going down vs build going up? That is, cost of full walkout basement using ICF construction versus building up with a crawl space. It would seem that it would be cheaper building down with ICF construction as there would be greater potential for labor savings. Using a 32 by 40 footprint as an example with no attached garage.
1. Avoid complicated dimensions. Roof lines, wall lines, corners, all those things take *forever* to detail properly, cost alot of materials, cutting, etc, and it raises costs. 2. Standard stuff is always cheaper, so don't be weird about a thing unless it actually matters to you. 3. Don't have spaces you don't need, and have spaces you do. Most people have 4 living rooms, 4 bedrooms, 3 car garage, and then they have one kid, but because someone sews they end up in the garage with the soccer balls and carpentry equipment. Don't be this.
Pam here….you really gave me some food for thought. To ma, the ideal use of moneys would be these homes that are prominent in Chicago. 2 levels with a garden apt. Or basement level apt. Your basement sq footage is more valuable with egress windows which all basements should be built with these as standard, they are so much cheaper to do at initial build. To add them later is doable and would be worth it too. To ma, every 2 story or 3 story apartment buildings, the 4 tp 8 units should have an elevator, making them ADA accessible. 20k is a BIG BANG for your buck with an elevator.
Great job Michael. I didn’t even know Menards had these packages. I have bought one of your courses. My biggest fear is not knowing how to inspect the work after it’s done. I’m sure one of your courses covers that with pictures or you have a different method. Currently, I’m building with a general contractor but I hope to build a house or barndominium for my parents down the line. My house is going to be a two-story with the master bedroom over the garage. It saves a lot of money over a ranch.
I will never understand people who don't want stairs. Going up and down the stairs each day is easier than going to the gym to help seniors stay fit. I live in a four story (basement, first, second floors and full finished attic) Victorian home that I call "The Stairmaster". Best exercise ever!
I'm honestly scared of aging in a staired home. My grandpa was a pretty fit guy and the last 10 years of his life he couldn't manage stairs. My parents are in the same boat now. I don't want to grow out of half of my own house, you know? I want to be comfortable in my own house, my entire house, to the end. I'm interested in the elevator idea, but for some reason it just doesn't set right with me (most likely because I've never thought about it a day in my life).
@@gladdenhandymanllc962 I have an older neighbor going through that. He does not use half of his house cause of stairs. I have a two story home. I have knee problems and would much rather live in a one story. My goal is to eventually have a 2 story home where the master is on the first floor so that I dont need to go up stairs.
Love these videos…. Can you do a video on doing an addition to an already existing ranch home? We are thinking of building up instead of tearing down and building new. Thank you!
A super important factor in increasing affordability: keep the footprint and overall square footage modest. Less everything = lower cost. Not just in the short term (construction) but in the long term (maintenance/repair). For example, the "Daniel" ranch model is just under 1200 SF for $88k (when this video was made). Affordability factor gets even better when you build 1200 SF on two levels. In the post-WWII USA, "bigger is better" became embedded in our culture; we hardly notice we're doing it. But it doesn't make sense.
I think their is a 3rd option also bonus a single family single story high pitch roof bonus room rafters instead of trusses so if you have a basement unfinished and bonus room unfinished and your house is only 1200 the basement is 1200 and the bonus room 600 Adding 1800 sqft to a house that is 1200 sqft is a huge deal and can grow with the families needs as they get the funds
I didn't thank you at the end of the "basement versus slab" video. I've done some cost/benefit analysis in my past, but this one was exciting. Classes in subjects such as these should start in fifth or sixth grade and continue through the rest of school. Changing a tire, how to use credit, what index funds are, how to do a cost/benefit analysis, etc. Until you are done with school. A doctor of philosophy (a PhD or doctor philosophiae) should be able to tell me why things in cold zones are buried down to a certain distance. Any rough guess how much a sub-basement would run?
One way to save money is to stop with the crazy roof and ceiling angles. That adds up in material cost and especially labor cost. Simple shapes are easier and faster to build.
As a senior with knee/hip issues, a two story home is a potential death trap. An elevator mitigates some of that but who is going to go onto the roof 3-4 times per year to clean out the pine needles and leaves. Every valley collects debris and, again, becomes a potential death trap for either the home owner or the house. Simple gable or offset shed roof is the only way around that.
Very well done video...wish I could make one. I love my large, flat (don't like split level) single story with it's beautifully designed roof and 22,000sq.ft. half acre lot...on a hillside with a very nice view. I helped build it as I became a plumbing contractor in my early 20's (63 now). If I stacked a second level on top... It would become a 4,200 sq. ft. house. Don't need that... and I work hard... hate to come home to relax and have to deal with stairs. In SoCalif, you only build up if you have a small or narrow lot. I also don't want to live 10 feet away from anyone.
@James Karrie I remember as a kid I'd jump from house to house (roof to roof) putting counter flashings on all the plumbing vent pipes.....that's less than 10 feet apart....way too close for me. It doesn't sound like much but if your house is 40 to 50 feet away from the house next door?....it's a big difference...especially on 10-15 foot terraced lots. I can live with that, although I grew up on farm land with hardly anybody around. Tract housing made my family financially independent but it also over populated SoCal. I wanna go back to less people and more room to get lost.
I have a small sawmill that can cut 95% of the wood building materials needed. Nothing pressure treated. I have drawn up tons of building on my laptop and it looks like my largest expenses are excavation and concrete. I have worked in construction for years doing almost every phase of home construction so doing most of the labor myself would be fine. I’m just working out details for design so I don’t run into any problems and the long term operation costs and efficiency look good. Do you factor using footers for regular construction and then a finished basement with concrete walls and floor? I think it would be a lot more than $40 sqft
Very interesting! I wasn't aware that Menards sold fully packaged homes like this. I watched your video this morning and immediately called the closest Menards which is unfortunately like 1000+ miles away. I'm curious if you or any of your clients have bought one of these packages from Menards to build out of state and if so what their experience was. Did the price drastically increase? How difficult was it dealing with shipping? Managing the process from out of state? THanks!
you should have recommended to have a master bed room on the MAIN floor, where most of the house will end up being, and NOT recommend a elevator, what happens when the elevator is not working?? elevator is not practical, even if they are cheaper!
I was told that the elevator doesn’t substitute the staircase. The house must have staircase. Elevator is additional to the staircase. Please advise. Thank you
True but not as efficient as reported, single story home delivers more usable square footage, two story home loses a lot more square footage to hallways, walls, stairs, etc. 3000 SQF Ranch feels roomier than 4000 SQF 2 Story.
After looking at some two-story designs I learned that large open layouts are difficult to do. Since the weight of the floor above must be carried with ordinary lumber the need for columns and beams will eat into the open floor space. Truss floor construction can solve those problems but will add to the overall cost.
Great point!!! I want a 2 story, 1800 sq. ft.minimalist house, with the 2nd floor just being an open space with a full bathroom. It would not be the same size as the 1st floor. It would sit on top of my kitchen so it won't be too big. I keep wondering how it should be designed so that it's supported heavily by the 1st floor, while also allowing my den to be open to the 2nd floor.
@@moonsyoungestsun6550 They make floor joists that are truss constructed. They can be engineered to span 30 to 40 ft. they are taller than regular lumber but have an open web design to pass HVAC and plumbing.
Correct. You can apply online for the rebate...easy to do. Also keep in mind, you won't be paying for the entire material package at once. And, it takes months to build a home. So you will be able to use most of your cash back rebate funds on the same house.
Great breakdown and tips! Looking to build myself and the builder quoted average of $235, per sqft, which is cost to build, permits, licenses, clearing lots, septic, well (March 2024). So whether it is 2000 sqft ranch or 2000 sqft 2 story, cost to build is the same. No savings here??
If you're in a super hot housing market, framers do not care about the details. They charge X per sq ft and you have to pay. They have a dozen jobs lined up and the charge what they charge. Now if you have an over the top roof, thats different, but they couldnt care less if its a perfect square or had 8 additional corners. One price and its not the low end.
Excellent description. Many of my doubts are cleared. Thanks a lot. Can you make a video on some typical single and two floor plans before we approach you to customize ours.
Here are a couple of practical tips for an owner managed build: 1.) When you meet with the prospective trades on the jobsite, don't get out of your Mercedes in slacks and loafers, keep a modest presentation and drive a modest vehicle to the meeting. 2.) Don't come across as rigid or difficult, communicate what you are looking to achieve and ask the trade for their thoughts on how they see it best being achieved at a reasonable cost. 3.) Build at least a 10% contingency into your line item budget. If the trades sniff you are flush, your bid will reflect that. If the trades perceive you as difficult and all knowing (when they know you aren't), they'll juice the bid as well. Contingency will provide you with the needed cushion to complete the work. Best of luck on your adventure, it will be one heck of a learning experience, and nowhere close to as easy as these videos make it seem. Go in eyes wide open, and patient.
Not add more flooring more windows more siding more insulation. Sure you aren't going wider but you still have to go up another level and you still have to cover the cost for that second level including all the walls and all the floors and all the ceilings.
I did this exact thing in 2000, built/sub contracted my own house. The only work i intended to do was the electrical being an electrician. As it happened my framer made too many mistakes and had to rebuild some things and the house became unprofitable for him so i ended up doing the finishing carpentry as well. The house, land and labour all cost me about 131,000 and 1 yr later to avoid capital gains i sold it for 152,000 which was under the cost we origanlly projected to just buy same/similar house which was about 155,000, so couldve waited a few months for 3-4 more grand but we were happy walking away with 20,000 profit, which we used as down payment on another rental house in the city with 2 basement suites
Everyone I ask, tells me it will cost the same or more to build upwards in Florida. I am assuming it is because fl building code is strict and to reinforce the second story to be a strong as the first is not cheaper (apparently). What part of the USA are you saying this would be applicable to ?
This is great in theory and on paper but what builder is going to give you this price. Zero. I don’t know the markup in a home price but add another 20 percent after you figure the size of the home times the square footage. This video is great in pointing out that in new construction building up is cheaper than building out and the reverse is true on a remodel.
We are finishing up our new house and I will say that we absolutely were hesitant about subbing our own house out. But, it’s been awesome and we are all in around 112 a square foot. We could have came in cheaper but, we saved so much we decided to go with upgraded windows and insulation and installing real hardwood. Would never use a builder again.
Does any of this also work in California? In 1988 my than boy-friend got his house plans out of a book and just started building himself, and rented it out for weddings, but I bet regulations have made that impossible nowadays. Still, all the construction sites taught me a lot.
Having all your livable space above ground is seen as more valuable than having some be below grade. I'm personally building a house right now. It's a ranch with a fully livable basement. I don't really care about the loss of value; I just didn't want to do stairs when my wife and I are older.
Hi Michael, always you articulate well. Really appreciate all your efforts, could you please post a video about adding morning room to the existing home, including cost, different options etc., is it good to construct morning room on the existing slab which is not foundation slab. Please advise.
There are so many reasons to prefer a single level house. I’m happy we payed 100K+ more for our new single level house vs going with one of the split level or 2 story plans.
@@liveandletlive2894 as you get older you won’t want stairs. At least 2 bedrooms are needed on the first floor for me. The master bedroom so it’s easier to age in place without needing to worry about climbing stairs when old or if ever injured. Along with a guess bedroom on the first level so parents can visit without needing to climb stairs. Imagine being 80 years old and due to failing health you can’t make it up stairs to your bedroom. Your only options are to figure out a place to sleep downstairs or sell and move. Moving always sucks but it must suck more at 80 when your health isn’t great to begin with.
@@brent1041 Younger people never realize this until it's too late, and then end up selling the house for another or a condo. We watched my parents go through it after my dad was injured in an accident. Thankfully they were able to build what they wanted to retire in and sell the house they built when I was young. Everything in the new house is on one level with no stairs to get in and out. Also, showers are walk-in with no rise. If I am ever able to afford to build a house, I will likely build a story and a half with the master suite on the first floor. Upstairs would be extra for my kids (never can tell if they are going to leave or not these days). The roof would also be as simple as possible. I don't understand pouring money into external features that add nothing to the living experience. It's vanity money.
There are some additional costs such as flashing materials, nails, structural hardware, and consumable such as the saw blades and let’s not forget the cost of the tools
@@MrSteeDoo you can cut your trim with a framing blade if you want, I hold myself to a higher standard. Your hang doors and trim with a framing hammer because who doesn’t like to see waffles in the morning?
@@Natedoc808 My point was that your list was nothing but nit-picking. so let's add $500 for consumables. Will that change anybody's decision on whether to DIY?
Look who is nit picking. Like I said , if you already have the tools and you’re going to do all the work yourself, then let’s look at the real cost. I proved it out according to bids and costs for the remodel I just pulled permits on in GA: It’s between 27-33K additional cost than the first package is between 90,55 and 95.62 per square foot, that’s 34% more than the number being thrown out there. You obviously haven’t purchased Simpson ties, nails, screws, caulking, flashing tape, house wrap etc needed to bring these kits up to code, and GA isn’t close to being an expensive place to build. Throw in some subs for some of these trades in order to get it done on time and you can add another 20% easily. I have all the tools and know how to build a house from the ground up, every trade can be done in house and I cannot gets the costs below 89$/ft2 and that’s with low cost finishes/fixtures. If I’m paying 95/ft, it’ll be nicer than these kits that’s for sure!
Kinda a bad example bc you could finish the ranch basement .. for 10k for your self .. say the basement 1100 sqft .. and the around 72k difference between the 2 floor plans , that'd bring you up to 2200 sqft .. and still save over 60k .. even go as far as adding and extra bath room in the basement 2k ... unless the 2 story has a basement as well
You could maybe get just the framing materials alone here in Southern Ontario for that price. Not even close to reality here. You could build a nice tiny home on wheels parts only*, for that price.
if i wanted a minimalist house that looked basically like a short cube, something like 24 x24 x20, would that be a good idea? it seems like that would give the most sq/ft for the money but i don't know much about the real world costs.
Wow. $120K just for the materials in a 1200 sqft at Menards wow… I’m finishing a small 1200 sqft house and I purchase 90% of my materials from Lowes and Home Depot at a cost of $27K. I used a standard 2x6 construction but I used a better insulation. In fact my entire home is less then your materials in Jacksonville Florida and my final cost is around $93K but I actually built the house. I hired land clearing, well and septic, electric and plumbing rough in and concrete foundation in a standard one story ranch but I considered a 2 story 1400 sqft but there was the stairs issue and the additional floor space was the stairs.
Hi Brian. I would like to get in touch with you to run some ideas by you. I’m planning on building my house and I would like to hear your opinion on certain aspects of it. How do I get to you?
@@alpargatal I’m not a home builder just a guy who always wanted to build a energy efficient home to retire in and I’m a Asperger one of those guys who researches everything twice. Plus I realized along the way how many institutions adding layers of profit onto your build cost who actually had nothing to do with building your house.
@@fedx2185 I understand. I’m curious about your design since I am having a hard time trying to get those 1200 sqf that I would like to get to. I don’t want to ask you questions about your house in this environment since I think it’s a private matter. That’s why I would like to have a talk with you about my project if you don’t mind helping.
@@alpargatal I used Chief Architect software you can buy or rent to design the house which has many pre made templates you can just adapt and this prints your complete plans. my house is a plain 32 x 42 simple simple design. Single straight roof and I’m actually building it myself. I hired the normal stuff like my septic, well, power pole and concrete slab. I’m siding my house in metal siding and it looks like a barnminimun other then this it is a normal construction. I’m getting ready to insulate now and I just purchased a spray foam machine for $3500 the new smaller one and will sell the machine after I’m finished
@@alpargatal my land cost was $20,000 for 2 acres well was $1800 septic was $4200 power pole was $1640, Bull dozer who cleared and graded lot was $4000 and my impact and permits was $7300 for a total $38,940 and I added a garage for a additional $11,453 extra. I have about $17,000 in my frame up and siding and a few dollars I paid some friends from church to help me. I’m currently running electric and plumbing and getting ready to spray foam. I figure about $12,000 to finish the dry wall and trim and fixtures. I’m not adding any custom upgrades or fixtures despite my wife and floors treatments and porches I have not determined yet. I have my appliances already.
@@neilmac4730 Ah yes, housing in Canada vs housing in the US. Such a major difference! And you'll find that all across Canada. Our housing costs are silly/stupid these days, and honestly have been for decades.
Do you feel your online course could be of value to an architect not necessarily wanting to build their own home but an architect who wants to have a deeper understanding of the construction process?
For sure. We’ve had home designers, G.C.’s, builders and remodelers take the course and have given positive feedback. As an architect you know how the pieces come together but the process of how things go from house plan to completed project can be complicated. You never know…you might decide to start doing design/builds!
If I did a new house, it makes sense to do the 2 story only with a first floor master, and could still have a second floor master as well. I would want a walk out basement on 1 side to put in a 1 bedroom in law. The house would go to my only child for her to start a family and I would move into the apartment, I'm old and my child is a teenager. When I get older and are having trouble, I want the downstairs bedroom. If she wants the House she can't put me in a home, if she does very well on her own, then I sell the House and get a small 2 bedroom villa by the beach in central America
I really love your channel and I subscribed. I've heard conflicting things on the savings of going vertically vs laterally with building. Most builders I've spoken to concur with what you said that it's cheaper to go up. However, I've had a couple builders in the past say it will be much more if the workers have to go on the ladder to the second story. They didn't elaborate on that point but I'm curious what your thoughts are on this?
It does take a little more effort to work on the second story for rough carpenters, siding installers...etc. However, the cost difference is minimal. Overall, you should save a significant amount of money with a two story over the one level home.
Very Professional videos well done. Hi, Mike, I'm an aspiring OB residing in Connecticut. I own my building lot and I'm currently in the planning phase gathering pricing still waffling between a few home plans, dealing with bank financing, etc. Do you have any advice on securing OB loans some banks are beginning to shy away from OB loans even if they used to offer them. My current lender just asked I add a GC I'll find a way to deal with it but this was not expected. Thanks for all you do.
They only way it's cheaper to build up is if the ground is expensive. You might save on some materials, but labor, engineering and shoring all increase. The exterior finishes will more than double, the roofing increases the higher you go. You are addressing the material cost going down, but do not leave out all the extra costs in going up.
A roof is a roof. Doesn't matter much if on a single or two story material wise. Boo-hoo to roofers who get vertigo on 2nd story. Climbing a second set of ladders is no big deal, imo.
How about planning the structure of the roof with the plan of finishing the attic? I'm planning on building structures that are basically best described as a "Raised Cape" to make a very budget friendly 6 family. Basically level 1/2 like a split level with a finished attic for 2 units upstairs. Seems like the most efficient layout I can come up with, but have never actually seen anyone do it.
I designed an irish bungalow style house and just by having a 12/12 pitch roof with attic trusses, it gives almost 500dq ft more living space if finished, not to mention a good amount of cubby space
Excellent video and I've pretty much settled on everything you've said here. Having already built a house in 2009, I now know what NOT to do. I did my homework and did a lot right, but there are several things I'd change. First, smaller footprint...much smaller. Our house is a 3,200 sqft walkout. Next house, half that or smaller, shed roof. Property taxes alone will be less than half, and that's a lifetime bill that only goes up. It will also allow me to do a lot more of the work myself.
Also, garage/shop on the bottom, living space on top, no basement, and this is in -45C winter Saskatchewan. We're building on jackpine sand (which is as hard and dry as bedrock, so no piles required. No stairs, just an elevator. We can still use the stairs on the outside elevated deck if we need to move furniture or bigger stuff in, but the elevator will probably be big enough.
Biggest gouging contractors the first time were (in order) the plumber, flooring, roofers, concrete, electrician, etc. I did the flooring and insulating myself, and also did the stucco on the ICF bottom. The plumber almost tripled the cost of materials (all electric, no gas) so when I found that out I told him to take them out and I went and got them myself, from the exact same supplier that he was getting them from. He wasn't happy, but who cares. He did really nice work that other trade guys I know still comment on, but he was gouging me bad.
They quoted me $5,000 labour to install laminate, floating flooring, so I did that and the bathrooms myself (final cost $1.28 per sqft with Costco flooring). 14 years later, it still looks like new, even with two boys in the house. The guy everyone recommended to do finish trim wanted $5,000 for labour (for some reason these guys all had nice, round numbers...nothing suspicious there 😉). I balked and found a guy that my kitchen guy recommended and he did an excellent job for an hourly rate. Final cost, $2,300. Took him a week as we have a lot of big windows (and a 1,000 sqft vaulted ceiling). My point, look around and get lots of other quotes to avoid being gouged.
great points
I KNEW it. I want to build my own home someday, and I'm either making them give me an exact cost breakdown or buying the stuff myself. I 1000% do not trust contractors.
how many crew did the finish trim guy have? Just him?
@@EdsPlace Yes, just him. That included all the closets and doors installed, including 3 pocket doors.
I will be a chalet in quebec on an insulated slab ….thanks for sharing your experience
Anytime you deviate from a basic square and a simple roof strong enough for the maximal snow, you are increasing the cost...every jog in the house and every extra gable adds to the cost...there is a reason many Iowa farm houses are a square 2 story with a simple roof.
So true
My local builder told me that every corner on a house adds 10k to the price.
why not go with hip roof instead of gable since its better against wind damage?
@@aloiswinzinger1160 excellent point
Tell this to my wife
As of Jan. 3, 2024, the "Daniels" Menards materials package is listed for $96,765 here in Illinois. That's a 20% increase from the $80,313 shown in the video.
I would be very interested to watch a video about the cost break down of the trades.
As a potential owner builder, I know my lumber package is somewhat fixed, but the labor to build all aspects of the house are variable.
I would really like a list of what to expect each trade / phase so I can have a better idea of what I should be able to.
Example (with completely made up data):
Framing - $X-$X sqft
Siding - $X-$X sqft
Rough Plumbing - $X-$X sqft
Final Plumbing - $X-$X sqft
Rough Electrical - $X-$X sqft
Final Electrical - $X-$X sqft
Dirtwork - $X-$X sqft
Drywall - $X-$X sqft
Insulation Installation (Bat) - $X-$X sqft
Going to depend largely on where you are and what your plan set looks like. Could also be effected by payment terms, who brings the materials, etc. Cost control is an art and a science. Takes a long time to break down. Where you building? Have a plan set?
Great suggestion. And including the local hourly rate and estimated hours that are used in the calculations could help us adjust the costs for our areas.
Remember to include installation costs of : finish carpentry, painting,flooring, exterior masonry.
Also foundation, basement labor/sq ft
In my experience, it really comes down to how many trades of each there are in your area, and how busy they are. Plumbers were the most likely to quote me an outrageous price and it care when I told them to forget it, because there isn't many of them these days, and they are therfore pretty busy. Electricians are a dime a dozen in my area, so you have a lot more room to negotiate.
Great video. I work at menards, there are so many ways to reduce the cost of these packages. It’s kind of nickel and diming, but it adds up. Go in to the building materials desk and talk to the guys there, they can help :)
First thing I’d do is change the siding on most of these packages. Many times it’s fiber cement or smart side, which is just absolutely nuts right now as far as cost goes.
What siding would you choose then?
How do iget the package for the build up from your company.
It's such a durable item. Hardi just works especially for fire resistance
Come on, man. LP is about $1.30 a sq ft. How much cheaper can you get?
I have clicked around on Menards website don't think I ever got their whole house packages location and then I live in SC and didn't see that they would ship.
That was a perfect explanation of how to look at the cost of a new home. I have looked into the elevator option and it's great. An oversize drive-in basement slab with 2 floors above that + an elevator can give a great bang for the buck, And older people will never worry about stairs. Keep it up.
you gotta think about the maintenance on the elevator that’s what gets you
@@constancekang9914 You are correct if there are city codes that require inspections every month. I have been arround elevator maintenance manny years and a well built elevator is almost maintenance free. Many commercial elevators, like in hospitals, are used constantly but a residential elevator is not.
I don`t think affordable house design is the right term here. its more like how to get the most footage for your money. Affordable is keeping total price as low as possible.
Per square foot, affordable as possible
@@zacherybenavidez8177definition of click bait 😆
He said affordable homes with a good design
Totally agree.. misleading info
@Armchair Builder is producing the most helpful home building videos on RUclips.
I saw a chart which showed that per square foot since 1973 prices have stayed about the same new home (adjusted for inflation.)
How sad is that? New technology of the 21st century should make our homes more cheap.
Of course labor is labor and should be paid well, but with more efficient building techniques that should also go down.
That 197,000 or something dollar home should be 150,000 or less in 2023.
slab on grade and use the slab as finished floor. That actually saves tons especially if you want a smaller house to begin with.
but isnt that a possible plumbing issue down the road if there are leaks.
@@aloiswinzinger1160 always the excuse but they seem fine in Europe. When you count the costs savings vs having to break and dig a small part, it's not bad
It also helps a bit to let go of the designer roof. A simple, traditional roof is cheaper.
whats a designer roof?
you should do one on a passive house
My first option would be a single story, finished basement, and a small elevator to move stuff around. This would be my retirement home where square footage is not the priority but rather functional usage. The elevator was something I didn’t consider before.
Figure $40k for an elevator.
Good plan, as falling down stairs could cost $135,000 cost in a nursing home!
Great video. I GC’ed my house 3 years ago. It was challenging but rewarding. I also saved $150-200k on a 4000 square ft home. I agree with your analysis. We are seeing more and more residential elevators in my area. My retirement house will have one. Another consideration architecturally is going up gives you more flexibility to allow light in living spaces. Things to watch out with room above the garage include HVAC and steel. I used a heeled attic truss and a mini split system.
What did the price/SF end up? Curious as I plan myself the same.
Yeah...I can't see paying some dude that much profit to sit in his $80,000 truck and do nothing.
@@Johnnyprc how could you possibly know. You don’t know anything about the house, what the quotes were or what I paid?
@@Johnnyprc you obviously don't know what negotiating is. I used to negotiate all repairs for my rentals from ac replacement to roofs, electrical and plumbing. Out of work people will take jobs for less so they can eat too.
@@Johnnyprc depends on where you are. Here in California if you are paying $500/SF in some areas it's EASY to save that much
Actual cost if you hire a guy who will work with you on a weekly/monthly salary style basis you can build with all materials for about $75 per sq ft. Add $10 for land and prep. $85 all in. The numbers here include a significant mark up on materials and labor. Just fyi... build for 85 all in and be worth 135 per sq ft minimum up to 350 per sq ft.
Where are you doing this and how much work do you have to contribute to project?
Don't forget that certain rooms like bathrooms, kitchens etc have a much higher cost/sq foot than rooms like unfished basement or bedrooms. Odds are both of them have pretty similar sized kitchens so as a percentage of the house you end up with a much higher total cost/sq foot
How much less do you estimate the cost would be if no cabinets are installed in a kitchen? I want a very minimalist house and don't want the hassle of cleaning inside of cabinets or them taking up space. I will have a simple pantry closet to store all kitchen supplies and have a fridge, stove, sink and oven. Just something simple that I can wipe down without having all of those corners and shelves collecting dust.
@@moonsyoungestsun6550 All sorts of fools spend 25-50k on kitchen cabinets. You can easily get used ones on FB for cheap or free.
@@MrSteeDoo Home Depot has basic kitchen cabinets for around $200 each.
Timber Frames and Hempcrete will be the future of quality affordable home building.
Nah
We found the fan boi! Lol. 🤡
Wow! Menards had a massive increase! The Daniel's model shown here went from $80,313 only two months ago when this video was uploaded, to $99,608! That's about a 25% increase in two months!
My feeling is, hopefully folks will refuse to build right now thus causing a surplus in building supplies which should bring the prices back down. Supply and demand absolutely drives this market, as we're seeing.
Are the increases mostly caused by lumber? If so then what about about alternatives to this?
Yes the prices for houses and Semi Trucks are crazy. Are people even buying at these rates? when is this bubble going to burst?
It's freaking ridiculous, mortgages are supposedly to surpass 8% by 11/3/22
Joe Biden and Company are complete idiots, a Cancer to society.
@@ayliniemi You got that right!
Hi. Good video. I agree with a finished basement, but IMO, It has to be a daylight basement. My preference, is a ranch on a full basement. Two master on-suites on the main level with 2 more bedrooms in the basement. I do not like living space above the garage at all. The spaces are too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. From experience living in hot and cold climates, I do not like a 2-story house. Too uncomfortable. Upstairs is always HOT in both summer and winter. I am totally willing to pay more for a house that is comfortable all year round.
Invest in good insulation and your concerns are taken care of...
Hi Craig. You are so right on the living space over the garage. It takes careful consideration in the design and build process to make sure that space is comfortable. People forget that a room over the garage has only one warm wall and the floor is adjacent to the cold garage. So, insulation and HVAC needs to be carefully put together or the room is always too hot or too cold. Thanks for the comment.
build with ICF and you will not have those issues
$55/sqft DIY. Buy rough cut from a mill at reduced market prices and avoid big box stores. Seek non-retail. Smooth wood is just a made up need.
Yep I am building a 4,500 sq ft house right now on a $150k budget. Doing it all myself except for the concrete basement walls. I own a sawmill and have plenty of trees. It’s definitely doable!
There is a discount lumber yard here where you can buy 150 sheet bundles of plywood for $11 per sheet. You have to buy the whole bundle but if you are building a house that’s not a problem. I agree, stay out of Lowes as much as possible
Great info! One thing I would like to add to what was said. Adding extra square footage of living space, will increase your property tax cost, so you may be saving a bunch up front, but you'll be paying more in the long run😑
Failed to discount the the 2 story square footage by the loss of usable SF due to stairs/elevator (4-8%) and keeping the primary bedroom/ensuite on the main floor which is difficult to include in the shrunken two story footprint.
Great point. The stairs and elevator would definitely take up space.
If you have a full basement then you are already wasting that 40 sq ft or so for the stairs. Stacking the 2nd floor stairs over the basement stairs involves no further sacrifice.
Perhaps cheaper in the US, but here in Scandinavia, a sizeable amount of extra building codes are added when the number of floors are greater than one.
The extra cost comes from structural integrity, (the building needs to be much stronger), preventing fire, so one needs to use more expensive non-flammable materials and/or labour intensive work. There's also requirements regarding escaping a fire, and avoiding fire death traps.
The cost is about 50% more for the 2nd floor (compared to the ground floor), i.e. 2nd floor is 1.5 times ground floor (on average).
I think roof top patios are underestimated. Rest outside with no risk of strangers or animals. Pets could stay up there and a spice garden. I also like designing according to available timber measurements… less cuts if done right. Also design utilities along center wall with access wall.
Could you make a video comparing costs of a build going down vs build going up? That is, cost of full walkout basement using ICF construction versus building up with a crawl space.
It would seem that it would be cheaper building down with ICF construction as there would be greater potential for labor savings. Using a 32 by 40 footprint as an example with no attached garage.
Many homes in St Paul had walk-up 3rd-story attics and those areas were usually very nice as long as you were not 7 ft tall.
Can you please address the difficulty in efficiently heating/cooling a two-story vs a one-story? Thanks
Two-stories are more efficient to heat and cool because they have a smaller ratio of exterior surface to conditioned volume.
Cement is expensive, try to get as close to square as you can. 120' of wall 30',30'=900 sq ft. 40*20 =800'. Absolutely go up also
1. Avoid complicated dimensions. Roof lines, wall lines, corners, all those things take *forever* to detail properly, cost alot of materials, cutting, etc, and it raises costs.
2. Standard stuff is always cheaper, so don't be weird about a thing unless it actually matters to you.
3. Don't have spaces you don't need, and have spaces you do. Most people have 4 living rooms, 4 bedrooms, 3 car garage, and then they have one kid, but because someone sews they end up in the garage with the soccer balls and carpentry equipment. Don't be this.
Most people have 4 living rooms? What?
Pam here….you really gave me some food for thought. To ma, the ideal use of moneys would be these homes that are prominent in Chicago. 2 levels with a garden apt. Or basement level apt. Your basement sq footage is more valuable with egress windows which all basements should be built with these as standard, they are so much cheaper to do at initial build. To add them later is doable and would be worth it too. To ma, every 2 story or 3 story apartment buildings, the 4 tp 8 units should have an elevator, making them ADA accessible. 20k is a BIG BANG for your buck with an elevator.
Great job Michael. I didn’t even know Menards had these packages. I have bought one of your courses. My biggest fear is not knowing how to inspect the work after it’s done. I’m sure one of your courses covers that with pictures or you have a different method. Currently, I’m building with a general contractor but I hope to build a house or barndominium for my parents down the line. My house is going to be a two-story with the master bedroom over the garage. It saves a lot of money over a ranch.
Master over garage...then you better have a storage shed out back then for flammables. Your floor will also be colder. Detached garages are safer.
@Just think And cars have caught fire...I'd add a sprinkler system. At least.
In the house I grew up in; my brothers and my bedroom was directly above the garage. It always smelled like car exhaust. Not good!
I will never understand people who don't want stairs. Going up and down the stairs each day is easier than going to the gym to help seniors stay fit. I live in a four story (basement, first, second floors and full finished attic) Victorian home that I call "The Stairmaster". Best exercise ever!
I'm honestly scared of aging in a staired home. My grandpa was a pretty fit guy and the last 10 years of his life he couldn't manage stairs. My parents are in the same boat now. I don't want to grow out of half of my own house, you know? I want to be comfortable in my own house, my entire house, to the end. I'm interested in the elevator idea, but for some reason it just doesn't set right with me (most likely because I've never thought about it a day in my life).
@@gladdenhandymanllc962 I have an older neighbor going through that. He does not use half of his house cause of stairs. I have a two story home. I have knee problems and would much rather live in a one story. My goal is to eventually have a 2 story home where the master is on the first floor so that I dont need to go up stairs.
Dangerous as one ages.
@@renanhcoelhosilva they have those things you can sit on and takes you up the stairs on rails
I'm disabled. Can't walk up and down stairs easily.
Thanks. I'm really struggling to find a builder I can afford. There's SO much to learn so I don't make mistakes.
two stories have AC issues and floor just creek all day unless you pour the ceiling of the first floor as well
Love these videos…. Can you do a video on doing an addition to an already existing ranch home? We are thinking of building up instead of tearing down and building new. Thank you!
A super important factor in increasing affordability: keep the footprint and overall square footage modest. Less everything = lower cost. Not just in the short term (construction) but in the long term (maintenance/repair). For example, the "Daniel" ranch model is just under 1200 SF for $88k (when this video was made). Affordability factor gets even better when you build 1200 SF on two levels. In the post-WWII USA, "bigger is better" became embedded in our culture; we hardly notice we're doing it. But it doesn't make sense.
I think their is a 3rd option also bonus a single family single story high pitch roof bonus room rafters instead of trusses so if you have a basement unfinished and bonus room unfinished and your house is only 1200 the basement is 1200 and the bonus room 600
Adding 1800 sqft to a house that is 1200 sqft is a huge deal and can grow with the families needs as they get the funds
I didn't thank you at the end of the "basement versus slab" video. I've done some cost/benefit analysis in my past, but this one was exciting. Classes in subjects such as these should start in fifth or sixth grade and continue through the rest of school. Changing a tire, how to use credit, what index funds are, how to do a cost/benefit analysis, etc. Until you are done with school. A doctor of philosophy (a PhD or doctor philosophiae) should be able to tell me why things in cold zones are buried down to a certain distance.
Any rough guess how much a sub-basement would run?
One way to save money is to stop with the crazy roof and ceiling angles. That adds up in material cost and especially labor cost. Simple shapes are easier and faster to build.
A box without any windows or doors is very cheap. As a carpenter and building lover, I sure prefer intricate detail, especially at the roofline.
Rooflines has gotten out of hand
As a senior with knee/hip issues, a two story home is a potential death trap. An elevator mitigates some of that but who is going to go onto the roof 3-4 times per year to clean out the pine needles and leaves. Every valley collects debris and, again, becomes a potential death trap for either the home owner or the house. Simple gable or offset shed roof is the only way around that.
You explained that really well. How much does a basement instead of a crawl space add to the cost of the foundation? That would be a good video.
Go basement. Maybe $20-$30 per square foot but its future living space
Very well done video...wish I could make one.
I love my large, flat (don't like split level) single story with it's beautifully designed roof and 22,000sq.ft. half acre lot...on a hillside with a very nice view. I helped build it as I became a plumbing contractor in my early 20's (63 now). If I stacked a second level on top... It would become a 4,200 sq. ft. house. Don't need that... and I work hard... hate to come home to relax and have to deal with stairs. In SoCalif, you only build up if you have a small or narrow lot. I also don't want to live 10 feet away from anyone.
@James Karrie I remember as a kid I'd jump from house to house (roof to roof) putting counter flashings on all the plumbing vent pipes.....that's less than 10 feet apart....way too close for me. It doesn't sound like much but if your house is 40 to 50 feet away from the house next door?....it's a big difference...especially on 10-15 foot terraced lots. I can live with that, although I grew up on farm land with hardly anybody around.
Tract housing made my family financially independent but it also over populated SoCal. I wanna go back to less people and more room to get lost.
I have a small sawmill that can cut 95% of the wood building materials needed. Nothing pressure treated. I have drawn up tons of building on my laptop and it looks like my largest expenses are excavation and concrete. I have worked in construction for years doing almost every phase of home construction so doing most of the labor myself would be fine. I’m just working out details for design so I don’t run into any problems and the long term operation costs and efficiency look good.
Do you factor using footers for regular construction and then a finished basement with concrete walls and floor? I think it would be a lot more than $40 sqft
Very interesting! I wasn't aware that Menards sold fully packaged homes like this. I watched your video this morning and immediately called the closest Menards which is unfortunately like 1000+ miles away. I'm curious if you or any of your clients have bought one of these packages from Menards to build out of state and if so what their experience was. Did the price drastically increase? How difficult was it dealing with shipping? Managing the process from out of state? THanks!
I wouldn't advise using a material supplier from out of state. Besides, the builder supply companies out there should be very competitive in price.
Buy the plans with material list from Menards. Take that to your local box store and get them to price match.
you should have recommended to have a master bed room on the MAIN floor, where most of the house will end up being, and NOT recommend a elevator, what happens when the elevator is not working?? elevator is not practical, even if they are cheaper!
Yes master in main floor. Also, if you have an elevator you must have backup stairs witch takes up valuable space.
I was told that the elevator doesn’t substitute the staircase. The house must have staircase. Elevator is additional to the staircase. Please advise. Thank you
You are correct.
Couldn't the stair case be on an outside deck?
True but not as efficient as reported, single story home delivers more usable square footage, two story home loses a lot more square footage to hallways, walls, stairs, etc. 3000 SQF Ranch feels roomier than 4000 SQF 2 Story.
After looking at some two-story designs I learned that large open layouts are difficult to do. Since the weight of the floor above must be carried with ordinary lumber the need for columns and beams will eat into the open floor space. Truss floor construction can solve those problems but will add to the overall cost.
Great point!!! I want a 2 story, 1800 sq. ft.minimalist house, with the 2nd floor just being an open space with a full bathroom. It would not be the same size as the 1st floor. It would sit on top of my kitchen so it won't be too big. I keep wondering how it should be designed so that it's supported heavily by the 1st floor, while also allowing my den to be open to the 2nd floor.
@@moonsyoungestsun6550 They make floor joists that are truss constructed. They can be engineered to span 30 to 40 ft. they are taller than regular lumber but have an open web design to pass HVAC and plumbing.
@@ToIsleOfView Thank you!!! I'll definitely look into that.
@@ToIsleOfView I hear these floor trusses are springy when used for long spans.
what about the hvac cost? I don't see that anywhere and it's not included in the menards package. how much does that add?
It depends on what you want. The video is just addressing the structure.
Probably 10k for a forced air system.
I like the video, I'm building a ranch for my wife and I (3bed 2bath, 2000sq ft) This is going to work for us.
The cost from Menards is after a 11% in store rebate credit. You pay the higher price and get the 11% back to spend in store.
Correct. You can apply online for the rebate...easy to do. Also keep in mind, you won't be paying for the entire material package at once. And, it takes months to build a home. So you will be able to use most of your cash back rebate funds on the same house.
Is there a video on how to hire a GC for one of these projects, or how to find/hire quality tradesmen for each specialty?
Great breakdown and tips!
Looking to build myself and the builder quoted average of $235, per sqft, which is cost to build, permits, licenses, clearing lots, septic, well (March 2024).
So whether it is 2000 sqft ranch or 2000 sqft 2 story, cost to build is the same.
No savings here??
That is an insane price!!!! I am working on mine now and believe I can stay under $50 per sq ft.
If you're in a super hot housing market, framers do not care about the details. They charge X per sq ft and you have to pay. They have a dozen jobs lined up and the charge what they charge. Now if you have an over the top roof, thats different, but they couldnt care less if its a perfect square or had 8 additional corners. One price and its not the low end.
Yup Vermont Colchester Vermont
Excellent description. Many of my doubts are cleared. Thanks a lot.
Can you make a video on some typical single and two floor plans before we approach you to customize ours.
As someone who just retired, I would be prefer the ranch plan.
Here are a couple of practical tips for an owner managed build:
1.) When you meet with the prospective trades on the jobsite, don't get out of your Mercedes in slacks and loafers, keep a modest presentation and drive a modest vehicle to the meeting.
2.) Don't come across as rigid or difficult, communicate what you are looking to achieve and ask the trade for their thoughts on how they see it best being achieved at a reasonable cost.
3.) Build at least a 10% contingency into your line item budget.
If the trades sniff you are flush, your bid will reflect that. If the trades perceive you as difficult and all knowing (when they know you aren't), they'll juice the bid as well. Contingency will provide you with the needed cushion to complete the work.
Best of luck on your adventure, it will be one heck of a learning experience, and nowhere close to as easy as these videos make it seem. Go in eyes wide open, and patient.
Not add more flooring more windows more siding more insulation. Sure you aren't going wider but you still have to go up another level and you still have to cover the cost for that second level including all the walls and all the floors and all the ceilings.
I did this exact thing in 2000, built/sub contracted my own house. The only work i intended to do was the electrical being an electrician. As it happened my framer made too many mistakes and had to rebuild some things and the house became unprofitable for him so i ended up doing the finishing carpentry as well.
The house, land and labour all cost me about 131,000 and 1 yr later to avoid capital gains i sold it for 152,000 which was under the cost we origanlly projected to just buy same/similar house which was about 155,000, so couldve waited a few months for 3-4 more grand but we were happy walking away with 20,000 profit, which we used as down payment on another rental house in the city with 2 basement suites
@@matthewfuller9760 western canada
When I research the cost of an elevator it greatly exceeds the price you detailed.
Everyone I ask, tells me it will cost the same or more to build upwards in Florida. I am assuming it is because fl building code is strict and to reinforce the second story to be a strong as the first is not cheaper (apparently). What part of the USA are you saying this would be applicable to ?
This is great in theory and on paper but what builder is going to give you this price. Zero. I don’t know the markup in a home price but add another 20 percent after you figure the size of the home times the square footage. This video is great in pointing out that in new construction building up is cheaper than building out and the reverse is true on a remodel.
Great info. But the decent builders in my area START at $350 per sq ft.
You are the best!!!
Hopefully I'll be one of your student soon so I can build my own house myself
Pitch of a roof and wood cost makes a BIG difference.
We are finishing up our new house and I will say that we absolutely were hesitant about subbing our own house out. But, it’s been awesome and we are all in around 112 a square foot. We could have came in cheaper but, we saved so much we decided to go with upgraded windows and insulation and installing real hardwood. Would never use a builder again.
I'm building right now. The impact fees (up to $10,000) permits $4,000.
If you building right now then why in the world don't you KNOW the impact fees? You say "up to 10K".
Does any of this also work in California?
In 1988 my than boy-friend got his house plans out of a book and just started building himself, and rented it out for weddings, but I bet regulations have made that impossible nowadays. Still, all the construction sites taught me a lot.
It’s a shame that when you finish a basement, even if it’s done well, an appraiser won’t give you much for the basement square footage.
I totally agree Kevin. When built right, this space should be considered the same as any other living space.
What do you mean they won't give you much? And why do you think they won't give it?
It’s about half/sf.
Having all your livable space above ground is seen as more valuable than having some be below grade. I'm personally building a house right now. It's a ranch with a fully livable basement. I don't really care about the loss of value; I just didn't want to do stairs when my wife and I are older.
I went through this with our Bi-Level home... They would use 1000 square ft ranch comparables with an unfinished basement, lol.
Great breakdown! Thanks for the information!
Still not a fan of 2 stories, nor huge homes, they aren't for everyone, however I get the profit incentives for a builder.
Thank you for sharing the subject and knowledge.
Hi Michael, always you articulate well. Really appreciate all your efforts, could you please post a video about adding morning room to the existing home, including cost, different options etc., is it good to construct morning room on the existing slab which is not foundation slab. Please advise.
Is it worth buying land and building these days? Is a cheaper option to buying is building a ADU as a primary residence?
I just signed with KHov homes as base price is going up 3000 a week.
Trying to figure out in what world a 267,000 dollar house is affordable for most people. Hell 195,000 house isn't affordable for most people.
Super helpful content you put out. Thank you for your efforts.
There are so many reasons to prefer a single level house. I’m happy we payed 100K+ more for our new single level house vs going with one of the split level or 2 story plans.
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@@liveandletlive2894 as you get older you won’t want stairs. At least 2 bedrooms are needed on the first floor for me. The master bedroom so it’s easier to age in place without needing to worry about climbing stairs when old or if ever injured. Along with a guess bedroom on the first level so parents can visit without needing to climb stairs.
Imagine being 80 years old and due to failing health you can’t make it up stairs to your bedroom. Your only options are to figure out a place to sleep downstairs or sell and move. Moving always sucks but it must suck more at 80 when your health isn’t great to begin with.
@@brent1041 Younger people never realize this until it's too late, and then end up selling the house for another or a condo. We watched my parents go through it after my dad was injured in an accident. Thankfully they were able to build what they wanted to retire in and sell the house they built when I was young. Everything in the new house is on one level with no stairs to get in and out. Also, showers are walk-in with no rise.
If I am ever able to afford to build a house, I will likely build a story and a half with the master suite on the first floor. Upstairs would be extra for my kids (never can tell if they are going to leave or not these days). The roof would also be as simple as possible. I don't understand pouring money into external features that add nothing to the living experience. It's vanity money.
@@brent1041 They make lift chairs that can be retrofitted to common stairways. They're 6k for a simple, straight stairway.
There are some additional costs such as flashing materials, nails, structural hardware, and consumable such as the saw blades and let’s not forget the cost of the tools
Duh. Saw blades for a circular saw?? Yeah they cost $3 at Menards and one will work for the whole job.
@@MrSteeDoo you can cut your trim with a framing blade if you want, I hold myself to a higher standard. Your hang doors and trim with a framing hammer because who doesn’t like to see waffles in the morning?
@@Natedoc808 If you have any skills already then you already own a good mitre saw and a good blade.
@@Natedoc808 My point was that your list was nothing but nit-picking.
so let's add $500 for consumables.
Will that change anybody's decision on whether to DIY?
Look who is nit picking. Like I said , if you already have the tools and you’re going to do all the work yourself, then let’s look at the real cost. I proved it out according to bids and costs for the remodel I just pulled permits on in GA: It’s between 27-33K additional cost than the first package is between 90,55 and 95.62 per square foot, that’s 34% more than the number being thrown out there. You obviously haven’t purchased Simpson ties, nails, screws, caulking, flashing tape, house wrap etc needed to bring these kits up to code, and GA isn’t close to being an expensive place to build. Throw in some subs for some of these trades in order to get it done on time and you can add another 20% easily. I have all the tools and know how to build a house from the ground up, every trade can be done in house and I cannot gets the costs below 89$/ft2 and that’s with low cost finishes/fixtures. If I’m paying 95/ft, it’ll be nicer than these kits that’s for sure!
I understand what your saying, however some people just have the approval to get 195k and not the 267k. 🤷🏻♀️
I need y’all in Florida for when I’m ready to finally choose an area on my land to build on!
Kinda a bad example bc you could finish the ranch basement .. for 10k for your self .. say the basement 1100 sqft .. and the around 72k difference between the 2 floor plans , that'd bring you up to 2200 sqft .. and still save over 60k .. even go as far as adding and extra bath room in the basement 2k ... unless the 2 story has a basement as well
You could maybe get just the framing materials alone here in Southern Ontario for that price. Not even close to reality here. You could build a nice tiny home on wheels parts only*, for that price.
You can’t do a live in basement with a pre 1980s foundation without moisture barrier
More videos like this please !
if i wanted a minimalist house that looked basically like a short cube, something like 24 x24 x20, would that be a good idea? it seems like that would give the most sq/ft for the money but i don't know much about the real world costs.
Wow. $120K just for the materials in a 1200 sqft at Menards wow… I’m finishing a small 1200 sqft house and I purchase 90% of my materials from Lowes and Home Depot at a cost of $27K. I used a standard 2x6 construction but I used a better insulation. In fact my entire home is less then your materials in Jacksonville Florida and my final cost is around $93K but I actually built the house. I hired land clearing, well and septic, electric and plumbing rough in and concrete foundation in a standard one story ranch but I considered a 2 story 1400 sqft but there was the stairs issue and the additional floor space was the stairs.
Hi Brian. I would like to get in touch with you to run some ideas by you. I’m planning on building my house and I would like to hear your opinion on certain aspects of it. How do I get to you?
@@alpargatal I’m not a home builder just a guy who always wanted to build a energy efficient home to retire in and I’m a Asperger one of those guys who researches everything twice. Plus I realized along the way how many institutions adding layers of profit onto your build cost who actually had nothing to do with building your house.
@@fedx2185 I understand. I’m curious about your design since I am having a hard time trying to get those 1200 sqf that I would like to get to. I don’t want to ask you questions about your house in this environment since I think it’s a private matter. That’s why I would like to have a talk with you about my project if you don’t mind helping.
@@alpargatal I used Chief Architect software you can buy or rent to design the house which has many pre made templates you can just adapt and this prints your complete plans. my house is a plain 32 x 42 simple simple design. Single straight roof and I’m actually building it myself. I hired the normal stuff like my septic, well, power pole and concrete slab. I’m siding my house in metal siding and it looks like a barnminimun other then this it is a normal construction. I’m getting ready to insulate now and I just purchased a spray foam machine for $3500 the new smaller one and will sell the machine after I’m finished
@@alpargatal my land cost was $20,000 for 2 acres well was $1800 septic was $4200 power pole was $1640, Bull dozer who cleared and graded lot was $4000 and my impact and permits was $7300 for a total $38,940 and I added a garage for a additional $11,453 extra. I have about $17,000 in my frame up and siding and a few dollars I paid some friends from church to help me. I’m currently running electric and plumbing and getting ready to spray foam. I figure about $12,000 to finish the dry wall and trim and fixtures. I’m not adding any custom upgrades or fixtures despite my wife and floors treatments and porches I have not determined yet. I have my appliances already.
These prices are absolutely through the roof... seriously... $350000 for nearly DIY 2000ft² house? You gotta be kidding.
Every penny of $350K. You save money if you don’t contract all the labor out.
I live in the north Okanagan of British Columbia.
$250 a square foot to build, 2200 square foot new houses go for 750,000, makes you sick.
@@neilmac4730 Ah yes, housing in Canada vs housing in the US. Such a major difference! And you'll find that all across Canada. Our housing costs are silly/stupid these days, and honestly have been for decades.
Do you feel your online course could be of value to an architect not necessarily wanting to build their own home but an architect who wants to have a deeper understanding of the construction process?
For sure. We’ve had home designers, G.C.’s, builders and remodelers take the course and have given positive feedback. As an architect you know how the pieces come together but the process of how things go from house plan to completed project can be complicated. You never know…you might decide to start doing design/builds!
Thank you so much! I did know Menards offered this!
If I did a new house, it makes sense to do the 2 story only with a first floor master, and could still have a second floor master as well. I would want a walk out basement on 1 side to put in a 1 bedroom in law. The house would go to my only child for her to start a family and I would move into the apartment, I'm old and my child is a teenager. When I get older and are having trouble, I want the downstairs bedroom. If she wants the House she can't put me in a home, if she does very well on her own, then I sell the House and get a small 2 bedroom villa by the beach in central America
That sounds like a great plan Donald!
Sounds like a plan except for the 10-20% inflation going on now.
I think the code requires an egress stairwell if you do an elevator.
Agreed. Also, You want a staircase for larger furniture that wouldn’t fit in the elevator
I really love your channel and I subscribed.
I've heard conflicting things on the savings of going vertically vs laterally with building. Most builders I've spoken to concur with what you said that it's cheaper to go up. However, I've had a couple builders in the past say it will be much more if the workers have to go on the ladder to the second story. They didn't elaborate on that point but I'm curious what your thoughts are on this?
It does take a little more effort to work on the second story for rough carpenters, siding installers...etc. However, the cost difference is minimal. Overall, you should save a significant amount of money with a two story over the one level home.
Very Professional videos well done. Hi, Mike, I'm an aspiring OB residing in Connecticut. I own my building lot and I'm currently in the planning phase gathering pricing still waffling between a few home plans, dealing with bank financing, etc. Do you have any advice on securing OB loans some banks are beginning to shy away from OB loans even if they used to offer them. My current lender just asked I add a GC I'll find a way to deal with it but this was not expected. Thanks for all you do.
Have you seen this video? ruclips.net/video/LPDEXsDF7Ss/видео.html
Our house in the middle of the street... 🎶
The roof, the roof is on fire. We don't need no water let the....
Pink houses for you and me in the USA!
They only way it's cheaper to build up is if the ground is expensive. You might save on some materials, but labor, engineering and shoring all increase. The exterior finishes will more than double, the roofing increases the higher you go. You are addressing the material cost going down, but do not leave out all the extra costs in going up.
A roof is a roof. Doesn't matter much if on a single or two story material wise. Boo-hoo to roofers who get vertigo on 2nd story.
Climbing a second set of ladders is no big deal, imo.
How about planning the structure of the roof with the plan of finishing the attic? I'm planning on building structures that are basically best described as a "Raised Cape" to make a very budget friendly 6 family. Basically level 1/2 like a split level with a finished attic for 2 units upstairs. Seems like the most efficient layout I can come up with, but have never actually seen anyone do it.
I designed an irish bungalow style house and just by having a 12/12 pitch roof with attic trusses, it gives almost 500dq ft more living space if finished, not to mention a good amount of cubby space
This channel is everything ❤️ thanks so much!
great video. you just answered a ton to my questions in one 8 min video. I know now I can't afford to build unless I want to be house poor. :0)
HI. I live in Southern California and it does not look like there's a Menard here. Is there a similar type of company I can use in So Cal? Thank you!