For the engines, I just rubbed the back on a flat sheet of course sandpaper till it completely removed the back grid leaving a perfect hole. No drilling or futsing.
duracote's adhesion promoter works really good. i've used it with great results and its only about 7 bucks at oreilly's autoparts i'm sure pepboys and autozone also carry it
I've heard about a kit like that Tom but it was years ago. I'm looking around though and maybe one will turn up. It has some better side panels and some added detail panels for the launch bay struts if I remember it correctly.
No, I don't plan on any major mods to this kit. Just a fun out of the box model with some lighting. I am going to do some work to add the launch tubes and light the landing bays.
I wonder if holding the back of the engine flat against an orbital sander pad would have taken the entire backside of the plastic down evenly enough to do the same thing as cutting each engine port. I think someone as an accuratizing kit that includes a anew 'engine panel' and a number of other small greeblies for the body.
Hey thanks for making this video, I have a model that I haven’t built and has been sitting in a box for years and I think I’m finally going to go for it. Your videos will really help inspire my build. Did you have any issues glueing up two Halves together after painting?
Not from where I'm sitting. Watch the final episode of BSG; "Daybreak". Starbuck's Raptor assault team jumps from directly within the museum space on the flight pod, you can still see the exhibits scattered around, and when they jump, "that frakkin' window" blows out. :)
That's a bit steep for some basic resin panels. I'm just going to build this thing withe a few mods for lighting and add the launch tubes. I think we'll be getting a more accurate kit from Moebius pretty soon anyway.
..excellent work: aside from the obvious lack of detail in certain areas, the biggest issue I had with the old Monogram model was that the rear engine section, as well as the bow, appeared to "droop" or sag. Has anyone else noticed that? If so, how could that be remedied?
Lorrie Causey I bought two of these kits the day they dropped at my LHS in 1979. The first one I built, I built straight out of the box, no paint, just stuck the decals on. The engine section had a noticeable droop to it. The second kit, which I did paint, had no droop. I figured the first kit may have been ejected from the mold a little too soon. As for the "alligator head," I suspect the severe downward angle (which was blatantly inaccurate) may have made it appear to droop to some.
The TOS Galactica had a big viewing window in the CIC/Bridge, hence the need to close up the blast shield (later copied on Babylon 5) every time those pesky Cylons came to play. The later, improved BSG remake had a CIC more like a current warship, deeper within the hull, and no windows there, although other compartments did have them, as did the museum on the unused flight pod.
Why are you spraying the inside Black? It's not a good light blocking colour, Silver is the colour of choice for this task, I thought most people know this.
I built this kit years ago but didn't light it. Looking forward to see how you work it out. Nice job so far.
Pla-Stick is a product made by Dupont. Or another called Bulldog.
They are available at most Auto Paint supply stores or online.
For the engines, I just rubbed the back on a flat sheet of course sandpaper till it completely removed the back grid leaving a perfect hole. No drilling or futsing.
duracote's adhesion promoter works really good. i've used it with great results and its only about 7 bucks at oreilly's autoparts i'm sure pepboys and autozone also carry it
I've heard about a kit like that Tom but it was years ago. I'm looking around though and maybe one will turn up. It has some better side panels and some added detail panels for the launch bay struts if I remember it correctly.
No, I don't plan on any major mods to this kit. Just a fun out of the box model with some lighting. I am going to do some work to add the launch tubes and light the landing bays.
So this is where you got your start on RUclips, Boyd? COOL.
Long live Trek Works!
Nice start to this kit!
Some great tips, very interesting.
I wonder if holding the back of the engine flat against an orbital sander pad would have taken the entire backside of the plastic down evenly enough to do the same thing as cutting each engine port.
I think someone as an accuratizing kit that includes a anew 'engine panel' and a number of other small greeblies for the body.
Hey thanks for making this video, I have a model that I haven’t built and has been sitting in a box for years and I think I’m finally going to go for it. Your videos will really help inspire my build. Did you have any issues glueing up two Halves together after painting?
One could leave the viper bay pods off and attach ishimura style gravity tethers to create a Miningstar.
Enjoying the build. Where can u get the plastic prep that u use again?
ok,..been awhile since I've seen it. Will re-watch it.
Not from where I'm sitting. Watch the final episode of BSG; "Daybreak". Starbuck's Raptor assault team jumps from directly within the museum space on the flight pod, you can still see the exhibits scattered around, and when they jump, "that frakkin' window" blows out. :)
That's a bit steep for some basic resin panels. I'm just going to build this thing withe a few mods for lighting and add the launch tubes. I think we'll be getting a more accurate kit from Moebius pretty soon anyway.
thats a BIG muther hubbard!
..excellent work: aside from the obvious lack of detail in certain areas, the biggest issue I had with the old Monogram model was that the rear engine section, as well as the bow, appeared to "droop" or sag. Has anyone else noticed that? If so, how could that be remedied?
Lorrie Causey I bought two of these kits the day they dropped at my LHS in 1979. The first one I built, I built straight out of the box, no paint, just stuck the decals on. The engine section had a noticeable droop to it. The second kit, which I did paint, had no droop. I figured the first kit may have been ejected from the mold a little too soon. As for the "alligator head," I suspect the severe downward angle (which was blatantly inaccurate) may have made it appear to droop to some.
Where'd you get that drill? Brilliantly phaser like. :p
The TOS Galactica had a big viewing window in the CIC/Bridge, hence the need to close up the blast shield (later copied on Babylon 5) every time those pesky Cylons came to play. The later, improved BSG remake had a CIC more like a current warship, deeper within the hull, and no windows there, although other compartments did have them, as did the museum on the unused flight pod.
SSM definitely doesn't have it. Wish Federation Models wasn't so difficult to browse, but it doesn't look like they have it after a cursory glance...
You DO realize they shoved the museum junk out the airlock and put pod2 back into operation?
Why are you spraying the inside Black? It's not a good light blocking colour, Silver is the colour of choice for this task, I thought most people know this.
Found it.
Search: arveymodelproducts, galactica
$125 OOP, but an email could be worth the trouble.
Doesn't the galactica have no windows because their frakking windows?
On a ship that's supposed to take 3-4 nukes to the knee at a time.