Vadim, great video, again; very informative. However, I couldn't understand what you said between 3:43 - 3:48, when you were describing how to set the serrations. Could you please clarify? Thank you.
Right, this is important - how much to grind the flat back side. The grind should cover the arches of the serrations (some call them "valleys"), but not extend much further towards the spine of the blade. Practically, initially I place the blade on the wheel almost flat, just to clear the knife jig clamp over the wheel. The lower is the blade, the further to the spine will the grind be. I slowly raise the Universal Support height watching the edge contact with the wheel. When I see that the edge contacts the wheel in the arches/valleys of the serrations, I fix the Universal Support in this position.
Thank you very much for all of these great videos. I've sharpened many knives on my old Tormek Super Grind 2000, which I no longer have, however, I'm interested in the T8, and am trying to learn as much as I possibly can about sharpening knives before I make a purchase, and so far, your tutorials are the most comprehensive & professional I've found so far.
Thank you so much Vadim for such an informative video, I’ve always avoided sharpening serrated knives as I didn’t know how to properly do it but now I can give it a go! One question, where can I buy the felt wheel for honing serrsted knives? I have a Tormek T8
I use CATRA made in UK www.catra.org.uk/CATRA_Hobbigoni_blade_edge_protractor_p/cuhg.htm Others are: VETAKO made in Czechia sharpeningtool.eu/en/catalog/accessories and Russia-made laser protractor sold in Georgia, USA www.gritomatic.com/products/laser-knife-edge-goniometer
I bought those 8" split laps online, one from a jeweler's supply website, another through eBay.com (not .com.au), but can't remember exactly from whom. The makers are shown in the end of the video. Initially we used them on a 6" grinder for deburring serrations, but after our research showed this may compromise the edge retention, we moved the wheels to Tormek to deburr "slow and cool" rather than "fast and hot". Even if the grinder is half-speed, like those that we use with paper and felt wheels in honing plane knives, serrations take longer contact time because have to be honed one by one sparing the peaks, and get too much heat from the felt.
Здравствуйте, Вадим ! Вопрос немного не по теме)) Есть ретро Tormek 2000, в довольно хорошем техническом состоянии. Имеет ли он право на жизнь, для коммерческой заточки кухонных ножей низкой и средней ценовой категории ? Понимаю, что модель довольно старая, но учитывая его смешную цену, подумываю приобрести.
So to be clear, for a serrated knife, you are sharpening the flat side? You don’t need to sharpen the other side? As in each serration on the other side of the knife?
Grinding in the serrations is not sharpening, it is restoration. No one restores serrations in a bread knife - we sharpen it while it is good to use, then through in the bin. Restoration of the serrations is something we can do on higher-end knives. To sharpen a serrated knife, we grind the flat side of the blade. Inside the serrations we only deburr.
Knife Grinders yes, but what about side to side? That felt wheel is not the 2” width of the Tormek stone - do you use washers to keep the shaft from sliding in and out? I tried running just the honing wheel with no stone on mine today and it slid right out to the lock but on the stone side.
Hi Gabirel, Sharpness tester is made in the USA: www.edgeonup.com/Purchase.html My book in PDF is on our website knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm and also in Amazon as a kindle and paper back.
I agree completely with you about using a round or conical stick to do anything but start a new scallop. I was taught to deburr the tips with a flat surface and stone the scallop. Gentleman prosharpener used buffing wheels to point and a spyderco ceramic triangle for scallops. He only would touch the back bevel(?) with a bench stone to true it
Laser protractor can be bought from 2 places online: CATRA or Vetako - see this thread on the Tormek forum www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=4014.0 Can also be home-made as explained on this forum: bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=338
This video where a native English speaker sharpens his serrated Spyderco first time in his life using Tormek is better: ruclips.net/video/dgFJPv5M4nw/видео.html
Vadim, great video, again; very informative. However, I couldn't understand what you said between 3:43 - 3:48, when you were describing how to set the serrations. Could you please clarify? Thank you.
Right, this is important - how much to grind the flat back side. The grind should cover the arches of the serrations (some call them "valleys"), but not extend much further towards the spine of the blade. Practically, initially I place the blade on the wheel almost flat, just to clear the knife jig clamp over the wheel. The lower is the blade, the further to the spine will the grind be. I slowly raise the Universal Support height watching the edge contact with the wheel. When I see that the edge contacts the wheel in the arches/valleys of the serrations, I fix the Universal Support in this position.
R.I.P. Sir. Your knowledge and more importantly your willingness to share it has propelled the sharpening world toward a finer edge. Thank you.
Thank you very much for all of these great videos. I've sharpened many knives on my old Tormek Super Grind 2000, which I no longer have, however, I'm interested in the T8, and am trying to learn as much as I possibly can about sharpening knives before I make a purchase, and so far, your tutorials are the most comprehensive & professional I've found so far.
excellent teaching, I wish there was more teaching methods like yours.
I never knew sharpening was an actual science! I learnt a lot, thank you! 👏👍😀
Thank you. This is something that I was hoping to learn how to do. I wasn't sure how to go about sharpening a serrated knife.
Brilliant. Vadim, thank you for yet another one of your techniques that I can add to my knife sharpening arsenal.
Thank you so much Vadim for such an informative video, I’ve always avoided sharpening serrated knives as I didn’t know how to properly do it but now I can give it a go!
One question, where can I buy the felt wheel for honing serrsted knives? I have a Tormek T8
¿Do you know where can I buy the special tool to check the degrees in the knive? (In minute 0:35). Thank you very much
I use CATRA made in UK www.catra.org.uk/CATRA_Hobbigoni_blade_edge_protractor_p/cuhg.htm
Others are:
VETAKO made in Czechia sharpeningtool.eu/en/catalog/accessories
and Russia-made laser protractor sold in Georgia, USA www.gritomatic.com/products/laser-knife-edge-goniometer
Could you explain how you take dimensions with this jig?
Nice, where can I get such a wheel?
Highly educational, thx.
Where do you get front vertical base please??
Is it possible to change a righthand bread knife into a lefthanded one?
Another great video. Question; Where can you purchase the tapered felt wheels?
I bought those 8" split laps online, one from a jeweler's supply website, another through eBay.com (not .com.au), but can't remember exactly from whom. The makers are shown in the end of the video.
Initially we used them on a 6" grinder for deburring serrations, but after our research showed this may compromise the edge retention, we moved the wheels to Tormek to deburr "slow and cool" rather than "fast and hot". Even if the grinder is half-speed, like those that we use with paper and felt wheels in honing plane knives, serrations take longer contact time because have to be honed one by one sparing the peaks, and get too much heat from the felt.
how would you sharpen a knife with serrations like the wosthof super slicer..or others with the oppisite seration grind?
Здравствуйте, Вадим ! Вопрос немного не по теме)) Есть ретро Tormek 2000, в довольно хорошем техническом состоянии. Имеет ли он право на жизнь, для коммерческой заточки кухонных ножей низкой и средней ценовой категории ? Понимаю, что модель довольно старая, но учитывая его смешную цену, подумываю приобрести.
Thanks. Fantastic as usual.
Great job man! As usual
So to be clear, for a serrated knife, you are sharpening the flat side? You don’t need to sharpen the other side? As in each serration on the other side of the knife?
Grinding in the serrations is not sharpening, it is restoration.
No one restores serrations in a bread knife - we sharpen it while it is good to use, then through in the bin.
Restoration of the serrations is something we can do on higher-end knives.
To sharpen a serrated knife, we grind the flat side of the blade. Inside the serrations we only deburr.
@@knifegrindersaustralia5158 wHat machine do you use for serrated knifes
Here is a better video on sharpening serrated knife: ruclips.net/video/dgFJPv5M4nw/видео.html
We sharpen on Tormek T7 and T8.
Your free hand honing seems very stable.
This techniqu is only in Australia?Is someone capable of doing the same service in Europe?
Complimenti per il video ! peccato non avere messo i "sotto titoli " . Che ruota è?
The felt wheel name and makers are shown in the end of the video, see at 21:38 min
OK, grazie per avere inserito " i sotto titoli "
What is that tool. That looks like a magnifying glass, that you used to determine the angle of the bevel?
Laser goniometer
How do you mount that to your Tormek and take up the slack on the shaft?
The felt split laps come with a pinpoint hole in its center, you can drill it to the diameter of the shaft.
Knife Grinders yes, but what about side to side? That felt wheel is not the 2” width of the Tormek stone - do you use washers to keep the shaft from sliding in and out? I tried running just the honing wheel with no stone on mine today and it slid right out to the lock but on the stone side.
Ah I see, please watch at 15:24 - you will see the aluminium insert I place on the shaft at the inner side of the felt wheel.
Hi! Thank you very much for the video, it’s amazingly helpful. Please where can I buy such sharpness tester, and where can I buy your book?
Hi Gabirel,
Sharpness tester is made in the USA: www.edgeonup.com/Purchase.html
My book in PDF is on our website knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm
and also in Amazon as a kindle and paper back.
Knife Grinders got the book! ;) thank you!
I agree completely with you about using a round or conical stick to do anything but start a new scallop. I was taught to deburr the tips with a flat surface and stone the scallop. Gentleman prosharpener used buffing wheels to point and a spyderco ceramic triangle for scallops. He only would touch the back bevel(?) with a bench stone to true it
He had no guide but a sweet lighted magnifying fixture to get his eyes at gnats ass focus. I really like this video btw
Would a medium felt be suitable?
For knife honing, the felt should be rock-hard or flint-hard. Because honing on a softer/medium felt will round the edge and you lose the sharpness.
Where did u get your laser protractor?
ruclips.net/video/rv2ulY6Less/видео.html
Hello. what is your device called to measure the angle please? thank you.
Laser protractor can be bought from 2 places online: CATRA or Vetako - see this thread on the Tormek forum www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=4014.0
Can also be home-made as explained on this forum:
bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=338
RIP Sir
Cor blimey mate, you ain't arf boring
Its pronounced Spider-Co not spydec-co. Great video thank you.
This video where a native English speaker sharpens his serrated Spyderco first time in his life using Tormek is better: ruclips.net/video/dgFJPv5M4nw/видео.html
TO EXPENSIVE!!!
Is there compound on the hard felt wheel?
Yes he said the Tormech compound was on the felt wheel and the leather wheel.