@Socom3988 With a one shot color and a multi-bandpass narrowband filter (e.g. L-eNhance), this look can be approximated, but it won't be quite the same since Ha and SII can't be separated with OSC since they both fall in the red spectrum. Check out my most recent video for a fuller explanation of this. In terms of the processing here, this is pretty mono-specific, so I'd look for a processing tutorial that covers 'hubble palette' for OSC specifically. Lukomatico here on youtube has one: ruclips.net/video/QV6ObLVRvNk/видео.html
Wow, you made the full resolution processed image plus all the narrowband data available for download so we can learn by editing it ourselves. This is the best learning tutorial on youtube for this topic!
Light bulb!!! Man you don't know how much this video helped me. I've spent so much time manually aligning ha and rgb frames. Loading each set as groups in dss and using a single reference to align will be such a huge help! Especially as my new 1600mm, filter wheel and filters will be here tomorrow! Great informative video as always and a standard I try to use when making my own videos! Thanks again!
Fantastic instructional video! I find a lot of folks posting astrophotography videos (some trying to be funny, some not) but your videos are truly informative. I've learned a lot by watching your videos. Please keep going and thanks!
Nico, Took my first narrow band photo last weekend and was happy with the data. Your step by step tutorial on how to process the photo into color was a life saver. With a bit of work and further study of your video I believe I can finally transform this into a photo. Thanks for taking the time to produce this and all your other videos, I find them quite informative (and better than many youtube videos). Best Wishes, BC
This is hands down the clearest & best video on youtube on how to "stretch" the histogram (lots of channels do this really fast in an unintelligible manner) followed by how to implement the Hubbel Palette. Also, the video utilizes Photoshop, which most serious amateur photographers already have access to. Well done, Nico!
your videos are a source of inspiration man! Thnaks for all that! by the way a funny thought, everytime I crop or see someone crop I wonder how many civilizations were left out of the picture! this will make cropping a bit more painful now, guaranteed!
Great video. I have a mono camera somewhere in the logistics chain and I have been looking at how to process the various files it will provide. There are a few tutorials out there but this one really jelled with me as you take the time to explain everything instead of just assuming I am a PS master. Thanks.
@@NebulaPhotos Hi Nico, I was just going through the process of using DSS and I noted that the numbers of files were different. It seems that the Ha Dark Flats have 15 Dark files in the download you provided that probably should not be there. I don't think that dark flats would be 300 seconds. I found out my camera has been shipped yesterday. Woo Hoo..
Waiting for NArrowband filter processing for a long time. Thanks Nick, very informative. My problem is, I do not have a dedicated astro camera but a DSLR Canon 800D. I wonder if I can use it on monochrome mode with narrowband filters.
Hi Volkan, No, unfortunately monochrome mode is just a JPEG transformation of the color data in a DSLR. The color filter array is physically attached to the sensor. That said, some people do narrowband imaging with DSLRs it just takes longer, and is less efficient than with a mono camera. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions. Nico
Awesome Deep Sky Stacker demonstration. Could you possibly mask the stars before adjusting the colors to make them more natural looking or is that even possible when assigning Ha to green? If you have masked stars in a previous video to reduce halos or for any other reason, please let me know which video to watch if you respond to this comment.
Hi Todd, I typically remove the stars completely and process the nebulae and stars separately and then recombine. I haven’t made a video showing that yet, but I do hope to get to more advanced techniques eventually. If you look around on RUclips, I’m sure you can find some good videos. Josh Smith from the Astro Imaging Channel has some good ones on it.
If using the ASI1600 or ASI294 (or QHY equivalents), yes you would need dark flats that are the same exposure length as your flats for each filter. Basically any other camera, just use bias frames in the calibration process rather than dark flats. The only reason I use dark flats is I had weird issues with the bias frames of the ASI1600 that are camera specific.
Hi Nico I’m really enjoying this video as I acquaint myself with processing narrowband images in Photoshop. My question is why do you open the three files as separate tabs, each in their own tab, vs. using the Scripts-Open as Layers method so that they each appear as Layers in a single file? Is it because the 3 files need to each be stretched individually, something you can’t do if they were Layers? Thanks!
Great video, just one question can you also put SII in green channel and H-alpha in red? Or won’t that work?
4 года назад+2
I watch this video frequently to make the steps "automatic" in my brain. Just wondering: three channels for three narrowband filters. What about LRGB? Four filters but three channels. What's the place of luminance filter light frames? Thanks.
After assigning the rgb channels as we do in this video, you would take you luminance (processed separately) and place it as a layer on top. Then change the blend mode to "luminosity" and use curves to reset the black point. I haven't done enough LRGB imaging to make a video about it yet, but the idea is that it is faster to capture more detail by letting in more light with your Lum filter. So you process the Lum stack to be as detailed and sharp as possible and shoot fewer RGB frames (that have heavy noise reduction) as the rgb is just used "color" the Lum. The reason I havent done much Lrgb imaging is that it works better under darker skies. Tough to do with city light pollution
How many minutes of subs do we need for narrowband? Is 5 minutes sufficient? Doesn't it depend on light pollution? At what point do we see diminishing returns?
It depends on many factors, yes. I basically just try to get the histogram off the left edge so I'm not clipping. The key is as much Total integration as possible
I don't, but in my next video I'll show the use of StatNet++ in the processing section, which can help with this. The other key is acquisition: how much light pollution do you have? And how are you choosing subexposure length?
I usually do, but it depends on the photo. For this one, I went simple and thought it looked good, so stopped there. Typically though the OII and SII signals will be much, much weaker than the Ha, so I make each narrowband channel starless and then stretch them differently before combining in to a starless "tone map" - this is the JP Metsavainio method, there should be videos on RUclips with more details.
Nico, we have narrowband and have been following along to try to copy this workflow. For some reason after merging the channels together, the more we stretch and do curves, to more stars tend to turn red and lose their vibrance. Not too sure what we are doing wrong.
This is common for narrowband stars to not behave well. For strong magenta/red stars there are three things to try: 1. Press ctrl, shift, alt e to make a new from visible layer, and open Filters->Adobe Camera Raw filter... Scroll down on the right side and their should be a megenta/red defringing control. Try playing with the strength of that slider to see if it helps. 2. Press control-i to invert the picture then take a curves adjustment and take down the highlights in the greens until the green around the stars is gone, then press ctrl-i again to invert back. 3. Use starnet++ on copies of the mono narrowband photos. Combine these starless versions to taste. Add just the Ha (with stars) as a screen blend. This will just add white stars, but I often go this way, and think it looks good
@@NebulaPhotos Would it make sense to take additional RGB subs, just for the stars? Then, you could use Starnet++ to paste in the more natural looking star layer onto your narrowband nebula image. Also, this technique could be used to reduce or eliminate star bloating by taking shorter exposure subs in RGB. I’ll have to try this unless you can see a flaw in this logic. Thanks for a great video!
@@davidleejenkins Yes, I often use RGB stars on top of HOO starless data, which I think looks quite good. RGB stars on Hubble Palette can work too, but sometimes looks perhaps too colorful/chaotic to my eye.
My guess is you are not using the same 'reference frame' for each group. If you watch again starting at around 16 minutes in, I show how I am using the same Ha sub for star registration to align each channel in DSS.
I jumped to the end to see the final result, very nice! I'll save the video for future reference if I ever make a total jump to PhotoShop.
Thanks Chuck! Love your channel!
@Socom3988 With a one shot color and a multi-bandpass narrowband filter (e.g. L-eNhance), this look can be approximated, but it won't be quite the same since Ha and SII can't be separated with OSC since they both fall in the red spectrum. Check out my most recent video for a fuller explanation of this. In terms of the processing here, this is pretty mono-specific, so I'd look for a processing tutorial that covers 'hubble palette' for OSC specifically. Lukomatico here on youtube has one: ruclips.net/video/QV6ObLVRvNk/видео.html
Best mono to RGB narrowband tutorial I’ve seen, thank you for doing this 👍🏻
Wow, you made the full resolution processed image plus all the narrowband data available for download so we can learn by editing it ourselves. This is the best learning tutorial on youtube for this topic!
Although I am not yet into narrowband, the tutorials have been very useful in learning how to go about stretching the data. Thank you.
Light bulb!!! Man you don't know how much this video helped me. I've spent so much time manually aligning ha and rgb frames. Loading each set as groups in dss and using a single reference to align will be such a huge help! Especially as my new 1600mm, filter wheel and filters will be here tomorrow! Great informative video as always and a standard I try to use when making my own videos! Thanks again!
Awesome so glad it helped! I'll check out your channel. Clear skies!
This is by far the most helpful narrowband tutorial online. Thank you sir!
Fantastic instructional video! I find a lot of folks posting astrophotography videos (some trying to be funny, some not) but your videos are truly informative. I've learned a lot by watching your videos. Please keep going and thanks!
Nico, Took my first narrow band photo last weekend and was happy with the data. Your step by step tutorial on how to process the photo into color was a life saver. With a bit of work and further study of your video I believe I can finally transform this into a photo. Thanks for taking the time to produce this and all your other videos, I find them quite informative (and better than many youtube videos).
Best Wishes,
BC
Great video Nico. Just started out in narrowband imaging and processing in Photoshop and this tutorial has helped me a lot.
This is hands down the clearest & best video on youtube on how to "stretch" the histogram (lots of channels do this really fast in an unintelligible manner) followed by how to implement the Hubbel Palette. Also, the video utilizes Photoshop, which most serious amateur photographers already have access to. Well done, Nico!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful
your videos are a source of inspiration man! Thnaks for all that! by the way a funny thought, everytime I crop or see someone crop I wonder how many civilizations were left out of the picture! this will make cropping a bit more painful now, guaranteed!
Great tutorial!
Thanks!
Fantastic tutorial. I am learning so much...cheers!
Thanks! Glad you are finding it useful!
Thanks for the video! I have recently made the jump from DSLR to a mono camera, and this helped tremendously with my photoshop processing.
Glad it helped John! Clear skies, Nico
Great video. I have a mono camera somewhere in the logistics chain and I have been looking at how to process the various files it will provide. There are a few tutorials out there but this one really jelled with me as you take the time to explain everything instead of just assuming I am a PS master. Thanks.
Hope you get your camera soon Stephen! Clear skies, Nico
@@NebulaPhotos Hi Nico, I was just going through the process of using DSS and I noted that the numbers of files were different. It seems that the Ha Dark Flats have 15 Dark files in the download you provided that probably should not be there. I don't think that dark flats would be 300 seconds. I found out my camera has been shipped yesterday. Woo Hoo..
Always awesome thank you
Thanks Alan, glad you liked it! Clear skies, Nico
Excellent, thank you!
Great video, thanks!
Waiting for NArrowband filter processing for a long time. Thanks Nick, very informative. My problem is, I do not have a dedicated astro camera but a DSLR Canon 800D. I wonder if I can use it on monochrome mode with narrowband filters.
Hi Volkan,
No, unfortunately monochrome mode is just a JPEG transformation of the color data in a DSLR. The color filter array is physically attached to the sensor. That said, some people do narrowband imaging with DSLRs it just takes longer, and is less efficient than with a mono camera. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
Nico
Awesome Deep Sky Stacker demonstration. Could you possibly mask the stars before adjusting the colors to make them more natural looking or is that even possible when assigning Ha to green? If you have masked stars in a previous video to reduce halos or for any other reason, please let me know which video to watch if you respond to this comment.
Hi Todd, I typically remove the stars completely and process the nebulae and stars separately and then recombine. I haven’t made a video showing that yet, but I do hope to get to more advanced techniques eventually. If you look around on RUclips, I’m sure you can find some good videos. Josh Smith from the Astro Imaging Channel has some good ones on it.
Hi Nico. Thanks for all your hard work. Question: You said that you need to shoot flats for each filter. What about dark-flats? Thanks.
If using the ASI1600 or ASI294 (or QHY equivalents), yes you would need dark flats that are the same exposure length as your flats for each filter. Basically any other camera, just use bias frames in the calibration process rather than dark flats. The only reason I use dark flats is I had weird issues with the bias frames of the ASI1600 that are camera specific.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks!
Hi Nico
I’m really enjoying this video as I acquaint myself with processing narrowband images in Photoshop.
My question is why do you open the three files as separate tabs, each in their own tab, vs. using the Scripts-Open as Layers method so that they each appear as Layers in a single file? Is it because the 3 files need to each be stretched individually, something you can’t do if they were Layers?
Thanks!
Great video, just one question can you also put SII in green channel and H-alpha in red? Or won’t that work?
I watch this video frequently to make the steps "automatic" in my brain. Just wondering: three channels for three narrowband filters. What about LRGB? Four filters but three channels. What's the place of luminance filter light frames? Thanks.
After assigning the rgb channels as we do in this video, you would take you luminance (processed separately) and place it as a layer on top. Then change the blend mode to "luminosity" and use curves to reset the black point. I haven't done enough LRGB imaging to make a video about it yet, but the idea is that it is faster to capture more detail by letting in more light with your Lum filter. So you process the Lum stack to be as detailed and sharp as possible and shoot fewer RGB frames (that have heavy noise reduction) as the rgb is just used "color" the Lum. The reason I havent done much Lrgb imaging is that it works better under darker skies. Tough to do with city light pollution
How many minutes of subs do we need for narrowband? Is 5 minutes sufficient? Doesn't it depend on light pollution? At what point do we see diminishing returns?
It depends on many factors, yes. I basically just try to get the histogram off the left edge so I'm not clipping. The key is as much Total integration as possible
Hi there! Do you have a video on keeping the star color and not blowing them out? I’m always having trouble keeping the star color thanks
I don't, but in my next video I'll show the use of StatNet++ in the processing section, which can help with this. The other key is acquisition: how much light pollution do you have? And how are you choosing subexposure length?
Nebula Photos I live in a Bortle 6 zone..
I noticed you did not use Starnet++. Is that personal preference or is it not required when processing Narrowband and HSO/SHO images?
I usually do, but it depends on the photo. For this one, I went simple and thought it looked good, so stopped there. Typically though the OII and SII signals will be much, much weaker than the Ha, so I make each narrowband channel starless and then stretch them differently before combining in to a starless "tone map" - this is the JP Metsavainio method, there should be videos on RUclips with more details.
Nico, we have narrowband and have been following along to try to copy this workflow. For some reason after merging the channels together, the more we stretch and do curves, to more stars tend to turn red and lose their vibrance. Not too sure what we are doing wrong.
This is common for narrowband stars to not behave well. For strong magenta/red stars there are three things to try: 1. Press ctrl, shift, alt e to make a new from visible layer, and open Filters->Adobe Camera Raw filter... Scroll down on the right side and their should be a megenta/red defringing control. Try playing with the strength of that slider to see if it helps. 2. Press control-i to invert the picture then take a curves adjustment and take down the highlights in the greens until the green around the stars is gone, then press ctrl-i again to invert back. 3. Use starnet++ on copies of the mono narrowband photos. Combine these starless versions to taste. Add just the Ha (with stars) as a screen blend. This will just add white stars, but I often go this way, and think it looks good
@@NebulaPhotos Would it make sense to take additional RGB subs, just for the stars? Then, you could use Starnet++ to paste in the more natural looking star layer onto your narrowband nebula image. Also, this technique could be used to reduce or eliminate star bloating by taking shorter exposure subs in RGB. I’ll have to try this unless you can see a flaw in this logic. Thanks for a great video!
@@davidleejenkins Yes, I often use RGB stars on top of HOO starless data, which I think looks quite good. RGB stars on Hubble Palette can work too, but sometimes looks perhaps too colorful/chaotic to my eye.
Thank you!
Maybe a tutorial about pixinsight and how to remove gradients.
On it!
I dun know what i doing wrong, but my stars looks like rainbow....
My guess is you are not using the same 'reference frame' for each group. If you watch again starting at around 16 minutes in, I show how I am using the same Ha sub for star registration to align each channel in DSS.