Thanks for the 3d model. Printed one and installed it on the PM25 I'm building, and the rattling sound in the spindle is gone. My 1kW 5000 rpm DMM servo spindle setup is almost as quiet as the original motor.
Hi. I use a small cordless driver to change tools. Saves time wrenching on the draw bar. I guess it's just one of those things I've just become accustomed to doing manually.
Hello, had a question regarding the 2 mills you have. I'm interested in buying a benchtop mill for hobby gunsmithing mostly, but also some motorcycle parts, and whatever else I can make instead of buying. Love to tinker and build, but I have no experience with a mill and little experience with a drill press. 😒 I've built multiple AR15/AR10 80% lowers using a jig, router and hand drill and have other projects I want to do so figured this would be the next step. Been doing alot of reading on forums and websites regarding mills and alot of people say to get a used Bridgeport, etc., but this is going into my garage and it's not something I will be using on a daily basis. I was very interested in the mill/drill/lathe combos but every person that had experience with those said the mill on lathe/mill combos have alot of shortcomings compared to a individual mill and the lathe section was okay, but also had a few issues that individual lathes dont. So after seeing multiple people say that I've decided it would be best to get a Mill first and lathe down the line. In my research I've done online I've found that it's important to get a mill that is heavy so it doesnt flex, a square back post (sorry I dont know terminology) instead of round, and the biggest mill you can afford/fit into the space you have. So I've pretty much decided on a Precision Matthews as I havent read any real negative views and most are very positive/general consensus that they're better built, more precise, have additional features that other companies with same imported mills dont, and have good customer service. I was pretty set on the PM-25mv, but am concerned I'll have it for a while and get into machining more, then end up wanting a larger mill so I can work on bigger parts or start machining steel (have been wanting to build a 1911 but wanted to get a mill to cut the rails instead of buying all the special tooling needed just to make 1 or 2 1911's. So basically my question is do you think the PM-25 is capable, has enough precision, and large enough for at home hobby gunsmithing and machining some motorcycle parts or should I go with something bigger like the PM-728 like you have? I also might want to convert to CNC down the road (depending on if I think I can teach myself how to program/operate a CNC through online reading/watching youtube videos) and have read that Precision Matthews mills have a bit extra space to fit everything needed for CNC conversion than competing companies with similar mills and are easier to convert. Money is also a factor. I've been saving and can afford a PM-25 with DRO and all the tooling I think I would need now. If i went with the 727 or 728 like yours, it would be the machine with DRO only and I'd need to save for a bit to get all the tooling. Sorry for such a long post I'm just trying to explain my situation and what I'd be using the mill for mostly. Again I'm just starting off and have no experience so any advice/help you can offer will be much appreciated!
Hi Franco, I was wondering, why did you remove the 1:2 pulley jig you made to increase the spindle speed? I am in the process of doing the same. I have now 5K on the spindle by using another motor and would like to bring to 7.5K and your solution seems the more feasible one. The size of the front pulley makes it really weird to increase the motor pulley ot a 130-140mm one. Thank you
The concept works. However, when you make the idler shafts, you need to make sure the bearings have some axial loading on them. Otherwise, they tend to vibrate a little bit while the machine is running. My original design worked ok but I took it off, sold it and never got around to making a new one. But, the concept works.
@@FrancoCNC ok, thanks for the info. We'll I could add a spring in between the bearings to give a certain preload or use a top threaded cap to remove the gap.
Hey this bushing eliminates only radial play right? But radial play is not a problem for cnc milling. Did you measure your play on both machines x/y and runout? This would be interesting.One other thing be aware of your spindle temp if you made the bushing from pla it will easily melt and could mess up your machine. My machine came with to much preload on the bearings and would heat up to the point you could not hold your hand on it. It would be nice to make a brass or bronze one with a preloaded spring or wedge ore something like that and that you can still use the drill function. Gr T
Hey my name is Ralph Rigdon Love your videos. I would love to do a short phone call about your mill. I’m buying one and would love to pull on your ear a bit. You are very knowledgeable and I would appreciate a little guidance. Thanks.
Thanks for the 3d model. Printed one and installed it on the PM25 I'm building, and the rattling sound in the spindle is gone. My 1kW 5000 rpm DMM servo spindle setup is almost as quiet as the original motor.
The PM-25MV spindle sounds great! Thanks for the 3d Model of the bushing!
cutting out the spindle noise ,thats cool. Is there a fusion file for the pm728vt drive bushing to share?
Hi. In the description of this video (follow link) you will see a link to the file: ruclips.net/video/XIJz2EPq-Wc/видео.html
Hey franco. Love all your videos. Can I ask why you've never done a power draw bar?
Hi. I use a small cordless driver to change tools. Saves time wrenching on the draw bar. I guess it's just one of those things I've just become accustomed to doing manually.
Hello, had a question regarding the 2 mills you have. I'm interested in buying a benchtop mill for hobby gunsmithing mostly, but also some motorcycle parts, and whatever else I can make instead of buying. Love to tinker and build, but I have no experience with a mill and little experience with a drill press. 😒 I've built multiple AR15/AR10 80% lowers using a jig, router and hand drill and have other projects I want to do so figured this would be the next step.
Been doing alot of reading on forums and websites regarding mills and alot of people say to get a used Bridgeport, etc., but this is going into my garage and it's not something I will be using on a daily basis. I was very interested in the mill/drill/lathe combos but every person that had experience with those said the mill on lathe/mill combos have alot of shortcomings compared to a individual mill and the lathe section was okay, but also had a few issues that individual lathes dont. So after seeing multiple people say that I've decided it would be best to get a Mill first and lathe down the line.
In my research I've done online I've found that it's important to get a mill that is heavy so it doesnt flex, a square back post (sorry I dont know terminology) instead of round, and the biggest mill you can afford/fit into the space you have.
So I've pretty much decided on a Precision Matthews as I havent read any real negative views and most are very positive/general consensus that they're better built, more precise, have additional features that other companies with same imported mills dont, and have good customer service.
I was pretty set on the PM-25mv, but am concerned I'll have it for a while and get into machining more, then end up wanting a larger mill so I can work on bigger parts or start machining steel (have been wanting to build a 1911 but wanted to get a mill to cut the rails instead of buying all the special tooling needed just to make 1 or 2 1911's.
So basically my question is do you think the PM-25 is capable, has enough precision, and large enough for at home hobby gunsmithing and machining some motorcycle parts or should I go with something bigger like the PM-728 like you have?
I also might want to convert to CNC down the road (depending on if I think I can teach myself how to program/operate a CNC through online reading/watching youtube videos) and have read that Precision Matthews mills have a bit extra space to fit everything needed for CNC conversion than competing companies with similar mills and are easier to convert.
Money is also a factor. I've been saving and can afford a PM-25 with DRO and all the tooling I think I would need now. If i went with the 727 or 728 like yours, it would be the machine with DRO only and I'd need to save for a bit to get all the tooling.
Sorry for such a long post I'm just trying to explain my situation and what I'd be using the mill for mostly. Again I'm just starting off and have no experience so any advice/help you can offer will be much appreciated!
Franco, I don't have a 3D printer would you consider selling the extra bushing you have?
Hi Franco, I was wondering, why did you remove the 1:2 pulley jig you made to increase the spindle speed? I am in the process of doing the same. I have now 5K on the spindle by using another motor and would like to bring to 7.5K and your solution seems the more feasible one. The size of the front pulley makes it really weird to increase the motor pulley ot a 130-140mm one. Thank you
The concept works. However, when you make the idler shafts, you need to make sure the bearings have some axial loading on them. Otherwise, they tend to vibrate a little bit while the machine is running. My original design worked ok but I took it off, sold it and never got around to making a new one. But, the concept works.
@@FrancoCNC ok, thanks for the info. We'll I could add a spring in between the bearings to give a certain preload or use a top threaded cap to remove the gap.
Hey this bushing eliminates only radial play right? But radial play is not a problem for cnc milling. Did you measure your play on both machines x/y and runout? This would be interesting.One other thing be aware of your spindle temp if you made the bushing from pla it will easily melt and could mess up your machine. My machine came with to much preload on the bearings and would heat up to the point you could not hold your hand on it. It would be nice to make a brass or bronze one with a preloaded spring or wedge ore something like that and that you can still use the drill function. Gr T
Does this bushing work on G0704 (looks the same)?
Hey my name is Ralph Rigdon Love your videos. I would love to do a short phone call about your mill. I’m buying one and would love to pull on your ear a bit. You are very knowledgeable and I would appreciate a little guidance. Thanks.
What layer height, infill density, etc. did you use to print the part?
I can’t find the link
Hi. Look in the description of the video. It's in there.