From a truck painter, that's a lot of flat real estate to not be using long boards for sanding, orbitals don't get surfaces level. Second, yes we use up to 6 coats of clear depending on the customer's wishes and paint color. This gives you plenty of material for color sanding and cut and buffing. Third in your last video when you were spraying the clear your gun was set way too dry. Clear should look "wet" when you're applying it. If it looks dry or pebbled when you first lay it down it's not going to get any better as it flashes then dries. Clear is one stage where a few runs aren't going to be an issue friend, because you're going to wet sand then cut and buff anyway if you want a real show car finish.
Do it all the time on Peterbilts and Kenworths there are very large areas of your sleeper, hood, and cab without huck bolts. Longboard what you can and use a small block for the details. Never said it was fun or easy but the prep and sanding are 90% of the results, spraying is just the fun part at the end. You could easily just sand down your orange peel and apply more clear, those finishes don't fully cure for weeks and that's at room temperature which is why we often bake them so we can immediately sand them if needed to fix blemishes. Now you understand why a good paint job costs $10k or more just for a basic color. For only your second job it turned out good and can easily be fixed it's just a question of time and labor.
@@scottdavis2133 just cutting down and leaving these 2 coats of clear would be awfully risky, wouldn't it? Sure it may not be burnt through now but what's actually left if he gets a scratch on a fender and has to do a paint correction?
@farmyardfab I would sand it down and put another 2-3 heavy coats of clear on it then wet sand again and polish. If you start wet sanding at 1000 and work up to 3000 not much cutting needed.
You’ve come this far, the more clear the better! Bite the bullet and put more on it. Every time you polish the truck you take off clear. Do it now or repaint later 😊
Mark: I'm reminded of the old adage; *WE DO IT RIGHT...CUZ WE DO IT TWICE!* You'll get it! And like you said, by the time you're painting *CHOPS* - you'll be a seasoned veteran on Base/Clear applications!! Time for an ice-cold *COORS* yet?! I'm ready!
I'm pretty confident you're going to want to lay the rest of that clear down on top of that paint job considering how much you'd like to put road miles on it and how many times you're invariably going to want to get it polished to show ready. You're right that crappy paint jobs require a lot of sanding, but so do really great ones. Painting is mostly prep and a sequence of about a dozen consecutive miracles to come out right and you have to compensate for all the things that pop up along the way. I'm sure you're going to be really happy with that end result, you did a phenomenal first paint job on this. I've used a lot of clear guns in my time, but the best one I've laid my hands on is the DeVilbiss DV1 Clearcoat Gun. I'd never spend that kind of money on a primer gun, and it's tough to argue for with basecoat guns with your addiction to metal flake... but with all the clear coat you're going to be laying in material cost and project value... a really nice clear gun (even a used one if you can find one in good condition) would be a solid investment. Keep it up! You're right about rushing it, take the time to do it as best you can. It'll really pay off in the end.
@@DDSpeedShopyour only saying that cause you dont have patience or the know how of what it takes to make a great paint job...say it with me dont know how.....😂
Ive been atound paint and body work almost my whole life and did collision work on trucks for 8 years and a few years doing custom work. Me personally after sanding what little clear you have i wouldnt even try to buff that. Yes it might buff out but its to thin and will eventually Break through to the base coat just from wind, stones or even waxing it. Buy a good gun or rent/borrow one and throw atleast two heavy coats on it. You put way to much work into it to shortcut it
Mistakes make us knowledgeable! Your Hard work and dedication to this project will pay off in the end! Don't quit now! I just watched the movie last week! "Steel" was pretty good.........
TwinStick ingenuity never ceases to amaze me. What a absolute legend of DIY. None of us can live up to your level line. So inspiring, you jackass. 😅. Well TwinSticks can do it. Why can’t you. Ugh. I cannot even dream of how much pride you need to have about your projects. Omg LBL is not your only DIY. But im going back and watching you trace back lines underneath her. Good gracious man. Wow. I cannot say it enough, well done sir! Well done
This is why you are as successful as you are. For not being happy with good enough and always striving for it to be perfect in your own eye. Definitely an inspiration. Good luck with the second go!
I understand perfection but I admire YOUR persistence from a laymans point of view to get itas good as a pro. Where would the world be without people like YOU.
Love how you're keeping it real, Mark! (This is like getting into your tux while getting ready for the ball and crapping your pants, but it will turn out!)
Mark i have extreme respect for you , i have been with you since the third episode and nobody is perfect but i have to say i told you so. I feel for you bud cause i know all the effort you put into your builds. But again , you should have waited until spring so you weren't rushed to paint little by little. I hope with all my heart that you can save this paint.
Good morning brother it looks like you are doing it right you just have to take your time with paint work you can't rush keep up the good work and I'll keep watching
Hey Mark, I O/O a small body shop painting trucks and tractors. If you don’t mind my .02$, p600 is to aggressive. P800 is as low as I’d go for a flow coat. Also there is no need to sand up higher than p1200. Any higher than that and you run the risk of the new clear not adhering to the old clear. Also get a foam interface pad for your d/a sander. It will help with burn through. Grey scuff where you can’t get the d/a. I know it’s more work but I like to paint trucks in stages, hood, roof tops, then cab/bunk sides. I find I can get a much cleaner paint job that way and it’s not so hard on me either. Hope this helps, good luck and I look forward to seeing the finished product.
@@farmyardfabdidn’t realize until the entire truck was covered with the 1st coat so “leaving it” at that point would’ve made even more work as there wouldn’t have been enough CC to sand for the flow coat 🤦♂️
Mornin Mark, You can call it anything like stubborness but I just call it pride in your work. I never worry about how long a job takes it's the end result that matters, when you are driving down the Yellowhead in your shiny Pete and every head is turning, all the hours of sanding and buffing and sweat and tears will be 100% worth it. Have a great week my friend Say hello to Mrs. Twin stix for us.
Always enjoy your content and can-do attitude. I see you generally learn to do things same as I do, three steps forward, two steps back. I'm not gonna offer any advice as I think you have it figured out and there are plenty of tips in the comments from people that know far more than I ever will. Totally agree that you need to respray the clear and lay down several really wet coats to get a nice finish. Looking forward to further progress!!!!
Persistence pays off Mark...and I believe in ole Twinsticks...so as it may suck for you .there is a silver lining for us....we get extra videos(😂)...funny not funny... anyways Happy holidays Twinsticks Garage family ❤️🇨🇦✝️💙🇺🇸...
Just back from Germany (, holiday) in 1989 VW transporter .. you're preparing was perfect I believe the best painting get orange 🍊 peal you have many professional people out there giving comment,s mark best regards bud I am from UK south east UK
The base coat turned out mint because it wasnt cured before the clear.but you are learning so well done my friend, learning is progress 🤙🏻🤙🏻 a painters worse enemy is thinking it will stretch out or it should work..anyway thanks for sharing you..
I painted a Camaro Rally Sport two-tone when Dupont made Chroma Base. I had huge runs in the clear, I wet sanded and sprayed clear a week later. Here's just a thought Mark. Spring time of the year is a nice time to pain, it's warm and there aren't insects to get in the paint. That Peterbilt got a lot of area to cover maybe breaking it into 2 parts would make sense. If you were to re-clear coat the Peterbilt, it's worth your time to remask over the existing masking paper, to insure as perfect of a clear coat as possible.
I feel your pain Mark, I’ve done many DIY projects, taking my time and balls-Ing it up. You’ve worked too hard to bodge it up. Take your time and get it right. Little by little deserves it.
Although I do highly appreciate your efforts here and really like the channel , looking at you waving around the paintgun in the last episode I expected the orange peel. And one gallon of paint can do an SUV but definitely not a truck with a huge bunk. Sanding it smooth with 600 grit leaves you with 1 full coat tops, which is rather thin. So I highly recommend you put on at least two more full coats after sanding the truck with 800 ( no polishing, this contaminates the paint with grease etc.) And then sand and buff if needed. Keep it up, you can do this! 💪
Put more clear coats on. You'll be better in the long run. S helpful tip. Warm up the clear coat by letting the open can sit on a warmer, set on low, to warm up the material. Maybe for 10 to 20 minutes. It lays down smoother
I’d say save future mark the headache, time, and money & add on 3-4 more coats of clear. Once the clear you have on is currently sanded down it will be super thin and you will risk burn through on buffing/waxing the truck now and in the future. Also you will get a much deeper/richer shine to come through once you have more than 3 coats of clear on and after buff job. Love the channel and hope for the best!
Hey Mark! You only need to sand, cut and buff, and re-spray the clear coat on LBL if "The Mountains Are Blue!" LOL! Anyway, good luck with it, your persistence will pay off! Can't wait till you tackle the K-100 full time. It's my favorite because I owned/drove one several years ago.
Here in Sweden we use a paintroller to paint cheap cars then sand then down and buff them. Usually gets as good as a paint in a garage. One stage coat that is. I think u dont want to have to thin of a clear for the future. Painting is a nightmare, thats why it cost so much. And i love that european trucks dont have hucks, we learned how to weld lol.
just get it as flat as you can and then lay the clear on dont worry about getting a run your gonna wet sand anyway. as another fellow mentioned. put that clear on till you see a flat shine .keep up the good work
Ahhh damn Twinsticks, I am glad you cut out the part where you cried when seeing the orange peel. How disheartening after all that time, money and effort you put into making your projects the best they can be! Hope that your solution turns out to be the ace in the hole and LBL will look like a million bucks when done. Holy crap, that is Lee Majors in that movie I cannot name. A child of the 60's myself, the so called actresses of today can't hold a candle to those back then. Love your channel, and see ya next time.
A technique I used to do with the air line was to put it over your shoulder, another tip is to use a rubber bondo applicator to move the water away when water sanding. It was better than a cloth.
Looks good. You’ll get it. I wonder and thought at the time that you should have wet sanded the primer but to late for that. I would sand like you are and put at least 3 more coats of clear on. Then cut and buff.
Wow these guys are giving you great advice take it and run with it I been doing Autobody for about 30 years listen to these men they have great skills and mostly they have all been there and done it
I agree. I am the same as you and now retired. It takes experience to be able to paint the two part system today. With all due respect Mark is not experienced enough.He should of had someone with experience do the job.Mark I hope you read this.
You'll get the truck to a super show finish. Rework helps understand a fine mist thin and even clearcoat. You could add-on a paint booth with air pressure to the TwinStick Garage
Welcome to the world of urethane! It has taken me many years of spraying to fully understand how to apply urethane properly. First thing is, always ensure you have more than enough clear to do the job.., and anything finer than 600 grit is too fine & you are compromising the "teeth" for the following coats of clear. When I flowcoat, I sand with 320 for automotive acrylic urethane, and just 220 grit for industrial polyurethane, NO finer as the sand scratches are easily filled with the first flowcoat. Then for the second & final flowcoat I lay on a medium heavy coat. Slow reducer is all I ever use for polyurethane(which is what I spray the most) & I rarely get any sags or runs,and it is as smooth as glass. Also, turn up the air pressure to the high end of the acceptable scale for clearing, and really good side lighting is paramount!
The fact that you only have one gallon on that whole truck should be enough to tell you you cannot sand and buff. Adding more clear is your only option. And stop immediately with the polish your just grinding contaminates into the surface that could effect your next coat so instead of orange peel you'll be battling fish eyes
I hope it all worked out well. I admit, watching the last vid I was really worried as you were spraying the clear. Do you have a paint thickness gauge? That'll let you know how much clear you've got to work with as you sand and buff. And not to spend more of your money, but a Rupes LHR 21 or LHR 15 (the numbers indicate the 'throw' in mm - detailers that do a lot of work like this have both) is really the Cadillac of random-orbital polishers. Enough horsepower to replace your rotary, but flexible enough to really let you jewel the finish. Speaking of the rotary, the jury is really still out on cordless polishers. You want that steady, constant power source of a corded machine for optimum results. Anyway, I love the color, and I admire your energy and persistence!
If I were you Mark I'd break that up into three separate sprays, bunk first, then the cab, then the hood. That way you can focus more on getting the proper flow and not be rushed to get everything covered otherwise by the time you come back to where you started the clear is setting up too much for the next coat. You don't want too much flash time. When spraying clear look at that angled reflection to see if you're getting flow and putting enough on, if you're first coat doesn't lay down and flow you'll just be building more orange peel. It's a fine line between orange peel, perfect gloss and runs. Maybe just practice on those air cleaner mounts by themselves first to get the feel of what the right amount to apply is.
Great effort. Is it worth putting off any further painting (clear coat) till the spring to give yourself more time to prep the truck, acquire a top quality spray gun and perhaps practice on an old car bonnet (hood) so you give yourself the best chance of getting the finish you want. It isn’t like you haven’t got stuff to be getting on with! All the best 👍🏻
I have a fridge in shop i painted.. flat black ontop. Hand drew flames masked them.painted bottom like a Harley Davidson orange. Did two mid coats clear with a House of Kolor metal flake.then two coats regular clear. Then tried my hand at hand pinstriping the edges of the flames. I have SO MUCH TIME in it prob a $1000 in materials. Just for a shop fridge. Some things cant be rushed
I did the same thing orange peel on my Kenworth. I should have painted it in sections bunk, cab, then, hood. I’ve been wet sanding buffing sanding got the hood to where it looks good now onto my cab
this how the first few paint jobs i did went so don't be too hard on yourself. if you decide to re-spray the clear i would just sand it with the 600 and leave it there clear will cover the 600 scratches and give it a little more tooth to bite to. and then after your first coat of clear to tack it spray it heavy and wet. maybe bump up your air pressure a bit as well. your be surprised just how heavy you can go with the clear before it sags. but a couple sags or runs are a lot easier to fix than a whole truck covered in orange peel. its all just a part of the process.
Mark I understand you've bought those cheaper guns to spray but with all the painting your future holds you'll benifit buying a good Devilbiss type gun. Gun does matter alot. After spending that amount on material to paint don't trust a cheap knock off to give great results..when your properly clearing you shouldn't be able to hardly see because of the particles in the clear..you were way low on pressure and gun wasn't adjusted right.clears different than paint. Do what experts are telling you do cab, then hood then bunk..separated..no sandpaper under 800 grit either you must reclear that job everytime you sand it your removing more clear. So you hit it with 600, 800,then 1200 your removing layers of clear..so what you'll have left is minimal clear to protect it within a yr you'll not have much left over the color.no protection. That's what clear is protection..
Hello young fella,your paintings not the problem ! The prep was,the high build after it set ,should have been sanded and re coated multiple times until perfect.Its a lot easier to sand primer than paint,continue with the sand down the only thing you are going to have to address is removing the residue from sanding, then clear it will turn out a pro job !
I mean, as a truck that's not going to see a lot of sun, you're probably OK to buff. But I'd still put in the effort to flow coat because the smallest scratch is going to hit blue. You want a lot of clear on there for the future.
Painted heavy trucks for years. With that being said I have been out of that wok for last 20 years . I think you are going to have to clear the truck again. It is going to come down to mill thickness which will dictate the reliability of the clear. If you break through then you will have even more problems because if you have to respray any base you will have chemical problems and risk a huge headache. You have come to far to short cut. the fact is that truck needed at least 3 coats for cutting and buffing. Good luck love the videos.
Nope. Remember, this is a guy that throws his spray guns out after a job because he doesn't know how to clean a spray gun much less use and/or set it up. What he should do after he has it all prepped and ready to spray is hire a professional to spray it. If you add up all the extra time and materials it's going to take to 'correct' the job, it would have been cheaper.
@@Mike-hb4pc you guys dont get it...its not about the money. You think he cares about the money? Dudes an engineer in the oil patch. Its about learning new skills, and being able to stand back at the end of the day and saying you did it all yourself.
@ Like I said, each his own. Do it right, or do it twice. And I agree with you, it’s not about the money. But when it comes to things like painting, or welding, it’s something you have to do all the time to be good at it. He’s had the truck for like what, 3 or 4 years. IDK. You put all that time, money, and effort into it, pay a professional to do it right. It’s a one and done thing. He’s not painting trucks everyday. Look, he has Fly Weld coming over to do professional welding. If he applied your thinking to it, why not weld it himself? You gotta know when to fold ‘em, and when to hold ‘em. Look, I’m not putting him down for it, but a painter he is not. It’s just hard to watch somebody put all that time and effort into it, and then just ‘ef it up. I can’t watch it……
Quite a bit of "Pride" in the comments from what I've read :/ You're doing great Mr. Twin Sticks! I admire the time and effort you put in to these rigs. Makes me wanna try my hand at new skills and expand my knowledge. Just know deep down that all these hours makes the end result oh so much sweeter! I can already see the comments "More sanding? boy he's really milking it" Blah...Blah...Blah 😆 Cheers to you and yours 🤟
You’re doing great! I just keep thinking you’re probably saving yourself $30,000 US by doing it yourself. This is a hobby truck and the paint job looks great.
I'm an amateur painter myself, and I made the mistake of leaving a sander laying on my truck after sanding the paint on my truck. It slipped off and left a long scratch on a panel, so as a rule, I I always put a towel, or an old shirt to lay my sander on to avoid this.
I need to figure out what that movie is. I guess I’ll watch this two times since you gotta do twice to work. Lucky you didn’t do like I did on my last paint job, use the wrong brand of harder so it took a month to cure.. I was eventually able to send it in and buff it out
Watch next week’s episode now Patreon 👀 Join today to see over 40 unreleased videos and help support the channel: www.patreon.com/
The Last Chase, Lee Majors 🤔
@@amadrid5899 close, but no cigar…
From a truck painter, that's a lot of flat real estate to not be using long boards for sanding, orbitals don't get surfaces level. Second, yes we use up to 6 coats of clear depending on the customer's wishes and paint color. This gives you plenty of material for color sanding and cut and buffing. Third in your last video when you were spraying the clear your gun was set way too dry. Clear should look "wet" when you're applying it. If it looks dry or pebbled when you first lay it down it's not going to get any better as it flashes then dries. Clear is one stage where a few runs aren't going to be an issue friend, because you're going to wet sand then cut and buff anyway if you want a real show car finish.
Kinda hard to long board a semi with all the hucks in the way 🤔
Do it all the time on Peterbilts and Kenworths there are very large areas of your sleeper, hood, and cab without huck bolts. Longboard what you can and use a small block for the details. Never said it was fun or easy but the prep and sanding are 90% of the results, spraying is just the fun part at the end. You could easily just sand down your orange peel and apply more clear, those finishes don't fully cure for weeks and that's at room temperature which is why we often bake them so we can immediately sand them if needed to fix blemishes. Now you understand why a good paint job costs $10k or more just for a basic color. For only your second job it turned out good and can easily be fixed it's just a question of time and labor.
@@scottdavis2133 just cutting down and leaving these 2 coats of clear would be awfully risky, wouldn't it? Sure it may not be burnt through now but what's actually left if he gets a scratch on a fender and has to do a paint correction?
@farmyardfab I would sand it down and put another 2-3 heavy coats of clear on it then wet sand again and polish. If you start wet sanding at 1000 and work up to 3000 not much cutting needed.
@ that’s the plan 👍
The only people who never mess up are the ones who never accomplish anything. Keep it up, Mark .
You’ve come this far, the more clear the better! Bite the bullet and put more on it. Every time you polish the truck you take off clear. Do it now or repaint later 😊
Mark: I'm reminded of the old adage; *WE DO IT RIGHT...CUZ WE DO IT TWICE!* You'll get it! And like you said, by the time you're painting *CHOPS* - you'll be a seasoned veteran on Base/Clear applications!! Time for an ice-cold *COORS* yet?! I'm ready!
Having body men and painters for friends, who can watch and give advice is worth it's weight in gold.
Or RUclipsrs like @paintsociety 👍
I'm pretty confident you're going to want to lay the rest of that clear down on top of that paint job considering how much you'd like to put road miles on it and how many times you're invariably going to want to get it polished to show ready. You're right that crappy paint jobs require a lot of sanding, but so do really great ones. Painting is mostly prep and a sequence of about a dozen consecutive miracles to come out right and you have to compensate for all the things that pop up along the way. I'm sure you're going to be really happy with that end result, you did a phenomenal first paint job on this. I've used a lot of clear guns in my time, but the best one I've laid my hands on is the DeVilbiss DV1 Clearcoat Gun. I'd never spend that kind of money on a primer gun, and it's tough to argue for with basecoat guns with your addiction to metal flake... but with all the clear coat you're going to be laying in material cost and project value... a really nice clear gun (even a used one if you can find one in good condition) would be a solid investment. Keep it up! You're right about rushing it, take the time to do it as best you can. It'll really pay off in the end.
Looks like a fun Saturday...
Oh yeah, big big fun 🤦♂️
@@TwinStix say it with me.... Patina
@ 😂👌
@@DDSpeedShopyour only saying that cause you dont have patience or the know how of what it takes to make a great paint job...say it with me dont know how.....😂
Mark, you'll get it son... just keep at it! I'll be watching sir! - Gary
Ive been atound paint and body work almost my whole life and did collision work on trucks for 8 years and a few years doing custom work. Me personally after sanding what little clear you have i wouldnt even try to buff that. Yes it might buff out but its to thin and will eventually Break through to the base coat just from wind, stones or even waxing it. Buy a good gun or rent/borrow one and throw atleast two heavy coats on it. You put way to much work into it to shortcut it
i a 100% agree with you might look gd but wont have the protection it needs .think about it your sanding off have of what you put on.
No don’t buff , redcoat , sand repeat
Mistakes make us knowledgeable! Your Hard work and dedication to this project will pay off in the end! Don't quit now! I just watched the movie last week! "Steel" was pretty good.........
TwinStick ingenuity never ceases to amaze me. What a absolute legend of DIY. None of us can live up to your level line. So inspiring, you jackass. 😅. Well TwinSticks can do it. Why can’t you. Ugh. I cannot even dream of how much pride you need to have about your projects. Omg LBL is not your only DIY. But im going back and watching you trace back lines underneath her. Good gracious man. Wow. I cannot say it enough, well done sir! Well done
This is why you are as successful as you are. For not being happy with good enough and always striving for it to be perfect in your own eye. Definitely an inspiration. Good luck with the second go!
ANDDDDD ANOTHER sanding video 😅 but we still love you 😂
@@chanceumfleet you think you’re tired of watching me sand… 😂
"The sand, Murray, the sand!"
Don’t give up! Sand it. Give it some more clear. And make that pete shine to the moon and back bro! 💪🏻💪🏻👌🏼👌🏼
Hi fella it’s a learning curve just keep doing what your doing. I love watching your videos your not a horrible painter at least your giving it a go.
Loving the new intro!! Nice work Mark!
I understand perfection but I admire YOUR persistence from a laymans point of view to get itas good as a pro. Where would the world be without people like YOU.
Love how you're keeping it real, Mark! (This is like getting into your tux while getting ready for the ball and crapping your pants, but it will turn out!)
😂
Oh, the joys of painting at home! I've been there brother. Keep up the good work.
awsome video mark thumbs up and shared
Mark i have extreme respect for you , i have been with you since the third episode and nobody is perfect but i have to say i told you so. I feel for you bud cause i know all the effort you put into your builds. But again , you should have waited until spring so you weren't rushed to paint little by little. I hope with all my heart that you can save this paint.
This channel is slowly giving me the motivation to do the bodywork on my go-kart.
It’s making me wanna give my ride on mower a makeover so your not alone
At least.
Looking awesome mark! Just keep shifting! You're doing a great job!
Good morning brother it looks like you are doing it right you just have to take your time with paint work you can't rush keep up the good work and I'll keep watching
Steel, I knew in the first second i saw it. Classic. And those big Ford cabovers were awesome.
Hey Mark, I O/O a small body shop painting trucks and tractors. If you don’t mind my .02$, p600 is to aggressive. P800 is as low as I’d go for a flow coat. Also there is no need to sand up higher than p1200. Any higher than that and you run the risk of the new clear not adhering to the old clear. Also get a foam interface pad for your d/a sander. It will help with burn through. Grey scuff where you can’t get the d/a. I know it’s more work but I like to paint trucks in stages, hood, roof tops, then cab/bunk sides. I find I can get a much cleaner paint job that way and it’s not so hard on me either. Hope this helps, good luck and I look forward to seeing the finished product.
When you run out of paint you don't destroy the whole job by stretching it out too thin. 🤔
@@farmyardfabdidn’t realize until the entire truck was covered with the 1st coat so “leaving it” at that point would’ve made even more work as there wouldn’t have been enough CC to sand for the flow coat 🤦♂️
Between the Hucs bolts has room for Stripes!! Woot woot.
Mornin Mark, You can call it anything like stubborness but I just call it pride in your work. I never worry about how long a job takes it's the end result that matters, when you are driving down the Yellowhead in your shiny Pete and every head is turning, all the hours of sanding and buffing and sweat and tears will be 100% worth it. Have a great week my friend Say hello to Mrs. Twin stix for us.
Always enjoy your content and can-do attitude. I see you generally learn to do things same as I do, three steps forward, two steps back. I'm not gonna offer any advice as I think you have it figured out and there are plenty of tips in the comments from people that know far more than I ever will. Totally agree that you need to respray the clear and lay down several really wet coats to get a nice finish. Looking forward to further progress!!!!
Man, it's going to be worth it. Don't overthink it, good luck!
Keyboard cowboys. I love it. 😂 it will be worth it Mark when you’re done. No hurry.
Persistence pays off Mark...and I believe in ole Twinsticks...so as it may suck for you .there is a silver lining for us....we get extra videos(😂)...funny not funny... anyways Happy holidays Twinsticks Garage family ❤️🇨🇦✝️💙🇺🇸...
everything is a learning process mark
you will achieve your goal...👍👍👍
Just back from Germany (, holiday) in 1989 VW transporter .. you're preparing was perfect I believe the best painting get orange 🍊 peal you have many professional people out there giving comment,s mark best regards bud I am from UK south east UK
Well lets go it has been a great ride
The base coat turned out mint because it wasnt cured before the clear.but you are learning so well done my friend, learning is progress 🤙🏻🤙🏻 a painters worse enemy is thinking it will stretch out or it should work..anyway thanks for sharing you..
Mark hopefully you have 3m. Stock. All those pads you used will raise the stock prices.
I painted a Camaro Rally Sport two-tone when Dupont made Chroma Base. I had huge runs in the clear, I wet sanded and sprayed clear a week later. Here's just a thought Mark. Spring time of the year is a nice time to pain, it's warm and there aren't insects to get in the paint. That Peterbilt got a lot of area to cover maybe breaking it into 2 parts would make sense. If you were to re-clear coat the Peterbilt, it's worth your time to remask over the existing masking paper, to insure as perfect of a clear coat as possible.
I feel your pain Mark, I’ve done many DIY projects, taking my time and balls-Ing it up. You’ve worked too hard to bodge it up. Take your time and get it right. Little by little deserves it.
Still nice work ,keep going and you will get you reaward,the best from holland and stay save
Although I do highly appreciate your efforts here and really like the channel , looking at you waving around the paintgun in the last episode I expected the orange peel. And one gallon of paint can do an SUV but definitely not a truck with a huge bunk. Sanding it smooth with 600 grit leaves you with 1 full coat tops, which is rather thin. So I highly recommend you put on at least two more full coats after sanding the truck with 800 ( no polishing, this contaminates the paint with grease etc.) And then sand and buff if needed. Keep it up, you can do this! 💪
Put more clear coats on. You'll be better in the long run. S helpful tip. Warm up the clear coat by letting the open can sit on a warmer, set on low, to warm up the material. Maybe for 10 to 20 minutes. It lays down smoother
LOL, Steel with Lee Majors, mmm, memories of Farrah Fawcett. Good luck with the sanding, redo as prep is 90% of painting
I’d say save future mark the headache, time, and money & add on 3-4 more coats of clear. Once the clear you have on is currently sanded down it will be super thin and you will risk burn through on buffing/waxing the truck now and in the future. Also you will get a much deeper/richer shine to come through once you have more than 3 coats of clear on and after buff job. Love the channel and hope for the best!
You can fix it buddyerry x mas an happy new year to you an yours
Hey Mark! You only need to sand, cut and buff, and re-spray the clear coat on LBL if "The Mountains Are Blue!" LOL! Anyway, good luck with it, your persistence will pay off! Can't wait till you tackle the K-100 full time. It's my favorite because I owned/drove one several years ago.
Here in Sweden we use a paintroller to paint cheap cars then sand then down and buff them. Usually gets as good as a paint in a garage. One stage coat that is. I think u dont want to have to thin of a clear for the future. Painting is a nightmare, thats why it cost so much. And i love that european trucks dont have hucks, we learned how to weld lol.
Oh brother… i feel your pain. You worked so hard. Take a breath.. slow down. You can fix this to your satisfaction. Be patient.
Sand it and flow coat 👌
just get it as flat as you can and then lay the clear on dont worry about getting a run your gonna wet sand anyway. as another fellow mentioned. put that clear on till you see a flat shine .keep up the good work
Ahhh damn Twinsticks, I am glad you cut out the part where you cried when seeing the orange peel. How disheartening after all that time, money and effort you put into making your projects the best they can be! Hope that your solution turns out to be the ace in the hole and LBL will look like a million bucks when done. Holy crap, that is Lee Majors in that movie I cannot name. A child of the 60's myself, the so called actresses of today can't hold a candle to those back then. Love your channel, and see ya next time.
Good luck man, we’ve been lucky with weather, so hopefully it works out! 😎👍
A technique I used to do with the air line was to put it over your shoulder, another tip is to use a rubber bondo applicator to move the water away when water sanding. It was better than a cloth.
Your best bet is to block wet sand,on the last coat of clear use an over cap full of reducer,it will help the clear flow out.
Looks good. You’ll get it. I wonder and thought at the time that you should have wet sanded the primer but to late for that. I would sand like you are and put at least 3 more coats of clear on. Then cut and buff.
GOOD MORNING
Wow these guys are giving you great advice take it and run with it I been doing Autobody for about 30 years listen to these men they have great skills and mostly they have all been there and done it
I agree. I am the same as you and now retired. It takes experience to be able to paint the two part system today. With all due respect Mark is not experienced enough.He should of had someone with experience do the job.Mark I hope you read this.
Can't learn by hiring someone else to do it...
Twin sticks got to get a mack. love the vids
Hi Mark one thing that will help to stop peal is a static gun and leting the paint dry for 1 or 2 day and turn down the Presser on the paint gun
You can’t put on another coat of clear after it sets up ie in 24hrs you’re screwed and have to sand it again…
You'll get the truck to a super show finish. Rework helps understand a fine mist thin and even clearcoat. You could add-on a paint booth with air pressure to the TwinStick Garage
Welcome to the world of urethane! It has taken me many years of spraying to fully understand how to apply urethane properly. First thing is, always ensure you have more than enough clear to do the job.., and anything finer than 600 grit is too fine & you are compromising the "teeth" for the following coats of clear. When I flowcoat, I sand with 320 for automotive acrylic urethane, and just 220 grit for industrial polyurethane, NO finer as the sand scratches are easily filled with the first flowcoat. Then for the second & final flowcoat I lay on a medium heavy coat. Slow reducer is all I ever use for polyurethane(which is what I spray the most) & I rarely get any sags or runs,and it is as smooth as glass. Also, turn up the air pressure to the high end of the acceptable scale for clearing, and really good side lighting is paramount!
The fact that you only have one gallon on that whole truck should be enough to tell you you cannot sand and buff. Adding more clear is your only option. And stop immediately with the polish your just grinding contaminates into the surface that could effect your next coat so instead of orange peel you'll be battling fish eyes
you can sand it and add more clear mark
I hope it all worked out well. I admit, watching the last vid I was really worried as you were spraying the clear. Do you have a paint thickness gauge? That'll let you know how much clear you've got to work with as you sand and buff. And not to spend more of your money, but a Rupes LHR 21 or LHR 15 (the numbers indicate the 'throw' in mm - detailers that do a lot of work like this have both) is really the Cadillac of random-orbital polishers. Enough horsepower to replace your rotary, but flexible enough to really let you jewel the finish. Speaking of the rotary, the jury is really still out on cordless polishers. You want that steady, constant power source of a corded machine for optimum results. Anyway, I love the color, and I admire your energy and persistence!
That is funny i live in the town Lee majors was born and raised in 😊
If I were you Mark I'd break that up into three separate sprays, bunk first, then the cab, then the hood. That way you can focus more on getting the proper flow and not be rushed to get everything covered otherwise by the time you come back to where you started the clear is setting up too much for the next coat. You don't want too much flash time. When spraying clear look at that angled reflection to see if you're getting flow and putting enough on, if you're first coat doesn't lay down and flow you'll just be building more orange peel. It's a fine line between orange peel, perfect gloss and runs. Maybe just practice on those air cleaner mounts by themselves first to get the feel of what the right amount to apply is.
That’s why I will always be the rattle can king 😂
Great effort. Is it worth putting off any further painting (clear coat) till the spring to give yourself more time to prep the truck, acquire a top quality spray gun and perhaps practice on an old car bonnet (hood) so you give yourself the best chance of getting the finish you want. It isn’t like you haven’t got stuff to be getting on with! All the best 👍🏻
I have a fridge in shop i painted.. flat black ontop. Hand drew flames masked them.painted bottom like a Harley Davidson orange. Did two mid coats clear with a House of Kolor metal flake.then two coats regular clear. Then tried my hand at hand pinstriping the edges of the flames. I have SO MUCH TIME in it prob a $1000 in materials. Just for a shop fridge. Some things cant be rushed
I did the same thing orange peel on my Kenworth. I should have painted it in sections bunk, cab, then, hood. I’ve been wet sanding buffing sanding got the hood to where it looks good now onto my cab
I kinda like how anything with paint can be fixed with time and money 👍
Like my go-kart.
Oh little by little gotta love her. You're doing wonderful job mark.
this how the first few paint jobs i did went so don't be too hard on yourself. if you decide to re-spray the clear i would just sand it with the 600 and leave it there clear will cover the 600 scratches and give it a little more tooth to bite to. and then after your first coat of clear to tack it spray it heavy and wet. maybe bump up your air pressure a bit as well. your be surprised just how heavy you can go with the clear before it sags. but a couple sags or runs are a lot easier to fix than a whole truck covered in orange peel. its all just a part of the process.
Thanks Ezra - yeah the best way to learn is to have a hard lessen like this 😂
Ezra!!!! We need more videos!!!!! Going thru withdrawals!!!!
Hi Mark all the way from Yorkshire England you need to wet sand it to to get smooth mate
Morning good buddy.... Worcestershire, UK.
a mistake is only a lesson on what not to do
If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing right.
That movie is “Steel” 1979 Lee Majors
Cool I want to watch that ASAP.
Mark I understand you've bought those cheaper guns to spray but with all the painting your future holds you'll benifit buying a good Devilbiss type gun. Gun does matter alot.
After spending that amount on material to paint don't trust a cheap knock off to give great results..when your properly clearing you shouldn't be able to hardly see because of the particles in the clear..you were way low on pressure and gun wasn't adjusted right.clears different than paint. Do what experts are telling you do cab, then hood then bunk..separated..no sandpaper under 800 grit either you must reclear that job everytime you sand it your removing more clear. So you hit it with 600, 800,then 1200 your removing layers of clear..so what you'll have left is minimal clear to protect it within a yr you'll not have much left over the color.no protection. That's what clear is protection..
Hello young fella,your paintings not the problem ! The prep was,the high build after it set ,should have been sanded and re coated multiple times until perfect.Its a lot easier to sand primer than paint,continue with the sand down the only thing you are going to have to address is removing the residue from sanding, then clear it will turn out a pro job !
Nope … the base coat was perfect - go look at the previous episode 👀 it was the clear that didn’t turn out…
I mean, as a truck that's not going to see a lot of sun, you're probably OK to buff. But I'd still put in the effort to flow coat because the smallest scratch is going to hit blue. You want a lot of clear on there for the future.
This is why a top quality paint job costs many, many thousands of dollars. I cannot imagine having to sand around all those rivets.
It’s unfun 🤦♂️
Hi mark great content as always. You have put to much work into LBL not to do whatever it takes to make her perfect please don't settle
Painted heavy trucks for years. With that being said I have been out of that wok for last 20 years . I think you are going to have to clear the truck again. It is going to come down to mill thickness which will dictate the reliability of the clear. If you break through then you will have even more problems because if you have to respray any base you will have chemical problems and risk a huge headache. You have come to far to short cut. the fact is that truck needed at least 3 coats for cutting and buffing. Good luck love the videos.
Would using a high quality spray gun made a difference?
Probably…
Nope. Remember, this is a guy that throws his spray guns out after a job because he doesn't know how to clean a spray gun much less use and/or set it up. What he should do after he has it all prepped and ready to spray is hire a professional to spray it. If you add up all the extra time and materials it's going to take to 'correct' the job, it would have been cheaper.
@@Mike-hb4pc you guys dont get it...its not about the money. You think he cares about the money? Dudes an engineer in the oil patch. Its about learning new skills, and being able to stand back at the end of the day and saying you did it all yourself.
@ Like I said, each his own. Do it right, or do it twice. And I agree with you, it’s not about the money. But when it comes to things like painting, or welding, it’s something you have to do all the time to be good at it. He’s had the truck for like what, 3 or 4 years. IDK. You put all that time, money, and effort into it, pay a professional to do it right. It’s a one and done thing. He’s not painting trucks everyday. Look, he has Fly Weld coming over to do professional welding. If he applied your thinking to it, why not weld it himself? You gotta know when to fold ‘em, and when to hold ‘em. Look, I’m not putting him down for it, but a painter he is not. It’s just hard to watch somebody put all that time and effort into it, and then just ‘ef it up. I can’t watch it……
Flo-coat is the way to go. Not enough clear currently left after sanding to offer good protection for the base color
Lay the coats down wet , then lay wet clear coats , sand level, buff , done .
Steel is the movie
The fall guy
Tip size is king on clear coat on your gun
The last chase is the movie
That is a Lee Majors movie but wrong guess…
In the words of Mr miogie you sand the truck ! Mark peterbuilt looks better every week !
Quite a bit of "Pride" in the comments from what I've read :/
You're doing great Mr. Twin Sticks! I admire the time and effort you put in to these rigs. Makes me wanna try my hand at new skills and expand my knowledge. Just know deep down that all these hours makes the end result oh so much sweeter!
I can already see the comments "More sanding? boy he's really milking it" Blah...Blah...Blah 😆
Cheers to you and yours 🤟
i would use a moping\compounding head before going to the wool, in the uk we use farecla g10 and g3 cutting compound.
You’re doing great! I just keep thinking you’re probably saving yourself $30,000 US by doing it yourself. This is a hobby truck and the paint job looks great.
Yep the mystery movie is Steel with Lee Majors.
I'm an amateur painter myself, and I made the mistake of leaving a sander laying on my truck after sanding the paint on my truck. It slipped off and left a long scratch on a panel, so as a rule, I I always put a towel, or an old shirt to lay my sander on to avoid this.
Good tip 👍
Soldier on my frosty friend. Patients is King, you can’t rush perfection.
Is your number 2 sidekick still doing the shiny stuff on the car?
When hand sanding use the side of your hand as your fingers will not put an even pressure on the sandpaper
I need to figure out what that movie is. I guess I’ll watch this two times since you gotta do twice to work. Lucky you didn’t do like I did on my last paint job, use the wrong brand of harder so it took a month to cure.. I was eventually able to send it in and buff it out
With only one coat of clear, I would be worried about rock chips in the future. Unfortunately I would do more clear
Steel (1979) Lee Majors