Since you haven’t installed everything in the car this may be a good time to fit the clutch master rod to the pedal arm. Bolt the adapter plate/firewall section to the pedal bracket/dash support. Then install the rod on the clutch master and bolt up the assembly to the adapter plate assembly. Then align the rod clevis to the pedal arm. Check the horizontal and vertical alignment as you will need to drill a new hole in the pedal arm. Much easier to do with the assemblies out of the car. The Wilwood/Tilton set up requires a pedal stop also. You can start to look at how to set one up. Nice build, great workmanship.
Thanks! Appreciate the insight. Will be dropping another video Sunday that will get me to that point exactly and will be able to do that. Perfect timing! 👍
I have one of those IR saws and they don't do very well with tight radius turns so on those I use a hole saw or large drill bit and connect them with the IR saw. It works great for larger radius bends though if I take my time with it - pushing it to cut fast doesn't work well, let the blade to the work
Did not see what you said I would, just saw some really nice fab work , and it had a hydro clutch plate in it, so not what I was expecting, will see how the next one goes.
@@ParadiseBayCustoms You do great work , this was part of perfecting the smoothed firewall , so name closer to what it is as there are tons of guys working on the firewall and this could certainly help, or kill that ambition , HAA HA
Good work on the DSE bracket. I will probably do the same setup when the time comes. I have the cheapest Magnum air saw from KMS Tools and have been happy with it. It binds up often, but if I take my time and don't try to make tight curves it works well on 16ga. I haven't tried it on anything thicker. I believe the key is good blades.
Thanks. Maybe I’m expecting too much from the saw. Probably was never meant to cut 14 gauge??? Will have to try it again on some thin gauge before I toss it.
Hey, I have been struggling with my 70 Camaro hydraulic clutch bracket a bit. The first one I bought from Speedtech. The hole in the bracket for the hydraulic cylinder didn't line up well with the firewall hole but after a little massage on the firewall hole, I got it to work. Then I found the angle of the cylinder rod was coming in way too low on the stock clutch pedal. Speedtech instructions say to cut off the stock GM rod, add their rod and adjuster and problems will be solved. Well that make the rod too short and where they tell you to drill the pedal is just a terrible rod angle. So I go and buy another bracket from Custom Performance and their hole lines up even worse with the firewall but the bracket angle is much better for the cylinder push rod. So, cut and weld I go with the Speedtech bracket. Maybe the DSE bracket fits for a second gen? I suspect they need to be different.
@@ParadiseBayCustoms I like that 2 part epoxy, it's like clay and it's as strong as steel. I used so many products to fill some of the gaps, it just depends on where and what the gaps are from. But none of it necessary, I was just thinking of preventing the inside from rusting and/or a place for dirt and/or bugs to go. Forgive my OCD.
Always a good day, when there is a PBC video.
Much appreciated. Comments like yours brighten mine! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have the Princess Auto air saw and it's also a gutless pos. Outstanding work, you inspire me to do better
Thanks! Very kind words. 67s and POS Air Saws Club - we should get T-Shirts! 😂
Fine job! 👍
Thanks Buddy. Much appreciated.
Since you haven’t installed everything in the car this may be a good time to fit the clutch master rod to the pedal arm. Bolt the adapter plate/firewall section to the pedal bracket/dash support. Then install the rod on the clutch master and bolt up the assembly to the adapter plate assembly. Then align the rod clevis to the pedal arm. Check the horizontal and vertical alignment as you will need to drill a new hole in the pedal arm. Much easier to do with the assemblies out of the car. The Wilwood/Tilton set up requires a pedal stop also. You can start to look at how to set one up. Nice build, great workmanship.
Thanks! Appreciate the insight. Will be dropping another video Sunday that will get me to that point exactly and will be able to do that. Perfect timing! 👍
I have one of those IR saws and they don't do very well with tight radius turns so on those I use a hole saw or large drill bit and connect them with the IR saw. It works great for larger radius bends though if I take my time with it - pushing it to cut fast doesn't work well, let the blade to the work
Will have to give it another shot I guess??? Thanks for reaching out. Much appreciated.
Did not see what you said I would, just saw some really nice fab work , and it had a hydro clutch plate in it, so not what I was expecting, will see how the next one goes.
Thanks. Been experimenting with titles… Back to the drawing board I guess. Any suggestions? 🤷♂️
@@ParadiseBayCustoms You do great work , this was part of perfecting the smoothed firewall , so name closer to what it is as there are tons of guys working on the firewall and this could certainly help, or kill that ambition , HAA HA
Appreciate it! Indeed… Ton of work - thought it was going to be easier than what it turned into. 🤣 🍻
Good work on the DSE bracket. I will probably do the same setup when the time comes. I have the cheapest Magnum air saw from KMS Tools and have been happy with it. It binds up often, but if I take my time and don't try to make tight curves it works well on 16ga. I haven't tried it on anything thicker. I believe the key is good blades.
Thanks. Maybe I’m expecting too much from the saw. Probably was never meant to cut 14 gauge??? Will have to try it again on some thin gauge before I toss it.
Hey, I have been struggling with my 70 Camaro hydraulic clutch bracket a bit. The first one I bought from Speedtech. The hole in the bracket for the hydraulic cylinder didn't line up well with the firewall hole but after a little massage on the firewall hole, I got it to work. Then I found the angle of the cylinder rod was coming in way too low on the stock clutch pedal. Speedtech instructions say to cut off the stock GM rod, add their rod and adjuster and problems will be solved. Well that make the rod too short and where they tell you to drill the pedal is just a terrible rod angle. So I go and buy another bracket from Custom Performance and their hole lines up even worse with the firewall but the bracket angle is much better for the cylinder push rod. So, cut and weld I go with the Speedtech bracket. Maybe the DSE bracket fits for a second gen? I suspect they need to be different.
Interesting. Never heard anyone having an issue with the DSE one. Even with modifying my firewall, setting up the pedal was effortless - no issue. 🍻
It's the small things, nice fab work. Are you going to fill the empty space with anything like foam?
Hadn’t considered it. Now you got me thinking 🤔 Any suggestions?
@@ParadiseBayCustoms I like that 2 part epoxy, it's like clay and it's as strong as steel. I used so many products to fill some of the gaps, it just depends on where and what the gaps are from. But none of it necessary, I was just thinking of preventing the inside from rusting and/or a place for dirt and/or bugs to go. Forgive my OCD.
@@GoGoGarage Will let it percolate! 😁
Great content and production value! Please pick up bread & milk!
🙂🙃😘
LOL 😂 Thanks Honey! 😘