I just want to say I really appreciate how you speak with a short pause in between each sentence and a long pause in between a subject change . It really gives my brain a chance to process the information . Take notes other RUclipsrs !!! Lol
First video was full of so many insightful little tips that have taken away a lot of the anxiety from the more finicky bits of this process, and now you've improved it even more! I really appreciate that you share this info even though you sell these books yourself!
I have watched part 1 and 2 of this tutorial, done taking notes from both of the video and what I need to do now is just to gather the materials and tools to try doing it! I'm really excited to try making one of these DIY hardback watercolor sketchbook for my urban sketching (while secretly showing off my pretty handmade sketchbook to my friends 😂) Thank you so much for this piece of gold of a tutorial for free, keep spreading knowledge kind sir!
So love this. Such a great tutorial for those of us a bit more detail-oriented. Other tutorials have been good, but have glossed over some of the finer details. You've hit all the notes here Will. Great professional presentation, and all one needs to make a very professional journal. Thanks!
I avoid using the bone folder for cutting, as it seems to tear often. Instead, just burnish, turn inside out, burnish, repeat, repeat, repeat. Then you can tear without fear of mistakes, but go carefully. If it looks like it’s sticking, stop and burnish a couple more times. Usually this is only necessary for the first large cut.
I've been drooling over a hand made sketchbook with the cold press cotton paper for more than 6months now. Wasn't able to purchase one due to the price. Then a light bulb moment happened. I had all the paper and supplies on hand but never considered making my own custom one. I'm so glad to have found your channel. You may have started a fire in me for custom sketchbook making. I'm glad to see more people picking up these kind of skills. Thank you for the mountain of knowledge in these videos. 🥰 I agree 100% about the hot press paper, it's been my favorite for a long time. Much love to you from Texas. ✌️
Excellent tutorials. I've been binding books for some years now, and some of your suggestions will be very useful in the future. A couple of things I do differently. When applying the adhesive it usually spills a little outside the piece. So the next piece you work with might get stained. To avoid this I use an old magazine as the base, and turn the pages as I go along applying adhesive to the next pieces. Also, I use Japanese binding for the leftover paper. Probably more suitable for notebooks than scketchbooks, but nice anyway. Greetings from Chile (a Spanish speaking land)
Thanks! Yes keeping glue off the cloth and end papers is really important. I keep a constant eye out for any spillage, with a lightly damp cloth at hand. And I regularly wipe down my surfaces, particularly during and after every glueing stage. I generally don't have much leftover paper, unless a customer requests a different size requiring wastage, though I do have a drawer full of scraps from mistakes or where the paper was marked.
Looks (a lot) better than my first attempt at making a WC sketchbook. I used the coptic stitch method (practical for a beginner like me, no special bookbinding tools/materials needed) . It worked, but it turned out a bit scruffy. It was an experimental project, using a WC paper I wasn't very happy about anyway, a relatively cheap non cotton paper. I wouldn't risk using expensive 100% paper before I have more experience at this. Sourcing materials is a bit of a problem in my remote neck of the woods...
Thank you. My mom was professional of book binding, and in childhood I made my own books. But of course I didn’t do I for year now, and forget some steps. But as I couldn’t find good affordable watercolour sketch book, I thought to make by myself, but I couldn’t remember, sewing process, so I’m really happy I found your tutorial, and catch up missing steps. So next step is find free time to make it 🤭
Wonderful Will - a superb video. I've made my first text block and await the arrival of tools and materials to continue. I love the feeling of the paper and the process through which the block emerges. Excellent teaching: the mark of quality runs through it. Many thanks.
The details you provide have been so helpful in allowing me to better understand your process. Thank you for sharing all you have learned about how to create a quality sketch book. After having watched both this video and your previous one, I feel more confident about making my own sketch books.
Thanks for this, I've been using your tutorial to make my own sketchbooks for a couple of months now. I've made 4 books now. I use Khadi cotton rags for my books and it works fine...
Thankyou for this great follow up video. Thanks to you I can finally tie the proper knot! I have followed many instructions and videos in the past but yours are the best! Your instructions are very clear and easy to follow, congratulations! I've ordered one of your sketchbooks and looking forward to getting it.
Cannot thank you enough. Just made my third one. It’s beautiful and this time I used Arches NOT and drawing paper together! It’s perfect. Thank you so very much.
Hi Will. I just found your channel today through your tutorial for artwork photography. I was curious and browsed through your channel to find out you have very other interesting tutorials, explained very well and clearly. Thank you so so much! You are admirable ❤
Hi Will, I have been studying bookbinding for a while now, and gathering lots of supplies with the intention of making books and journals. I’ve made a few that turned out well thus far, but I’m as a serious information junkie, as well as being rather frugal/conservative with my supplies, I am trying to learn what mistakes to avoid so as not to waste 💸 costly materials. Before seeing this video, I purchased that same press here in the US. I found the back and side baffles to be unnecessary and restricting so I removed them, first consulting with my engineer son if it would compromise the integrity of the press (he said it wouldn’t) and I’m happy to report that it works perfectly well and allows me to press larger books using boards without as much size constraints, especially from front to back. It may not apply as much outer pressure with large books, but when using very sturdy wood boards top and bottom, that helps overcome this and my pressing ends up being quite even. I’m finding your videos to be very helpful, so thank you very much! I am about to begin making a large wedding album and need it to be as perfect as possible with no expense spared. I do find that it can sometimes be difficult to know paper grain direction when ordering large sheets as it’s sometimes not noted on websites (rather frustrating). For this reason, I went to an art supply store and chose the large sheets of Fabriano Italian made watercolour paper in person since I was able to determine the grain direction myself. The large album I’m making will be in landscape orientation. I chose watercolour paper because I like texture and sturdiness and was also able to get a brighter white which will go with the colour theme of the wedding (instead of off-white or ivory which seems to be more common with this sort of paper). I also like the natural deckle edges. I should note that I am a professional paper maker and instructor but I do not make extremely large sheets. The Fabriano paper is quite pricy but as mentioned, I don’t have a price restriction on this album so I will purchase whatever I need to get this done right. I am also adding glassine between each album page (photos will later be inserted by recipients with photo corners), using my Mum and Dad’s 1950s [English] wedding album as inspiration. Anyway, apologies as I’ve obviously started to ramble on 😂. Thanks again Will! 😊📚
Hi again Will! I made my first sketchbook a while back after watching your first tutorial (we chatted a couple of times thru the other video comments). Now that I wanted to make another, of different size, I bumped into this "part 2" of tricks of the trade - excellent! Thank you for taking the time to share your process improvements! I wanted to make a square book, so I went for 11x11 inches to use the full sheet at least on the shorter direction. I felt that the full 11x15 would be too heavy, but I think it this one will be almost as heavy! I just folded the paper by adapting your process (but same principle). I have 1s and 2s only, as I have only 2 pieces of paper from each sheet. I was able to reverse engineer your logic of the 1,2,3,4 to end up with the "right" texture on each spread. I almost (foolishly!) disregarded the "2 sides" warning you gave, and I am glad I looked at it under light as it is quite different ( I used the Fabriano Artistico SOFT press, and the back of the sheet has a really weird diagonal line pattern, whereas the front has a very soft slightly textured surface). So I am glad I took the time to assemble the signatures as you explained so at least i have each "spread with the same texture. But now I have a pile of excellent wc paper strips that are ~ 7.5 x 22 inches!!! What to do with it... (yes, the "waste" you mentioned, I just wanted to try though). Of course it would be excellent to make a cool landscape book 7.5 x 11 from the leftover paper, if it wasn't for the fact that I would need to fold the strips against the grain. I tried one and it is pretty ugly, lol - the paper flakes badly at the fold. I am not sure what to do with it in terms of a book, I might just use it as single pieces cut in half or just go for it and try to sew and bind against the grain. Any suggestions? The square book is coming out great though!
Thanks! Yes there's always wastage with square books unfortunately. Still it's not a bad thing to have scraps to hand for tests etc, or if the pieces are large enough you could make another book
thanks for this, i love your super informative vids, just as you posted this i was contemplating a pack of large watercolour sheets i want to turn into a book
thank you!! i wanted to try upcycle a vintage book cover but i was scared to waste the book & the paper as i haven’t tried bookbinding before. this is so helpful
@WillJBailey hi, Will, thank you so much for this tutorial, it's just what I was looking for, I improved my technique a lot. Still I seem to have a problem with my diy sketchbook. I see your sketchbooks lay absolutely flat, mine don't. Instead they tear apart between the signatures and there is a gap between them. Have you ever had the same issue and what can I do about it? I use 300 gsm cotton paper though not fabriano (I use baohong)
I used this and part 1 to learn how to make sketch books and I have to say that your presentation made it really easy to learn. Good-sized chunks of information, with logical pauses in between so I don't feel rushed. I've made several books, of varying sizes (and success) and now I've started working with 300g Fabriano Artistico papers. In your first video you showed how you could cleanly rip the paper with a bone folder, and then in this one you showed how that could still be done, but with a bit more effort and care. My question to you is two-part; I use a bone folder but the edges, no matter how careful I go, fast or slow, always look ripped and jagged. Part 2 is, I started using a scalpel to cut the pages, which made much cleaner edges but some sources say cutting watercolour paper shouldn't be done. What's your opinion on this and do you have any suggestions for cleaner tears?
Hey. Thanks! Yes, using a bone folder creates torn edges, which is the specific look I go for - it looks and feel hand made and shows off the cotton. But there's no right or wrong. If you want clean edges you could use a pad instead of sheets, or you could use a scalpel and cutting ruler, or you could use a rotary cutter.
@@WillJBaileyfor what it's worth, I did a bit of experimenting and found that creasing the pages as you showed in video 1. Using the tip of the bone folder to make a slight tear, but instead of walking the bone folder along the crease, flip the page and gently tear the page in half made a much nicer look than when cut. And, the page ends didn't look like they were cut with a steak knife. Also, following on with your comment that there are many different materials that make for great covers, I found you can do so much with leather. It's great for dying any colour and finishes the look very nicely. I look forward to more tutorials!
Thanks! I've made square books for customers before, it's just a bit wasteful when tearing down large sheets. You have to discard quite a bit of paper.
Thank you very much for your videos! I was just yesterday wondering if I could in any way make a sketchbook with proper 300 gsm watercolour paper rather than the, otherwise useful but bulky, ” Fat pads” I have. And somehow RUclips guessed what I wanted and suddenly your video was there without any searching from me;-)! Absolutely brilliant! I just wonder one thing, I live in Sweden and have had some trouble in finding proper book binding glue. Does ordinary PVA glue work ( apart from the acid free point ) or is it too stiff?
Thanks Charlotta! 🙏 There are different types of PVA glue, with varying ingredients / characteristics. You can get PVA made for builders for example, designed to seal plaster, PVA designed to be safe for children to glue paper, PVA for artists to seal canvas. The one I use is specifically for bookbinding, designed to delaminate with water, to be Ph neutral and to remain flexible over time, but if you can’t get hold of this, yes I think you could use another type. I haven’t tried any so can’t make any specific recommendations, but I would suggest looking at ones designed for artists / conservation like this: www.jacksonsart.com/lineco-arcare-white-neutral-ph-pva-adhesive-8oz-dispenser-bottle 😊
Hope you’re well. I miss your videos. Don’t mean to be a snoop it’s just with Covid, one never knows Hope you’re just busy enjoying all your wonderful creations
Thanks Liana. I’m still here! Yes it’s been way too long since my last video. Life got in the way, including making many many sketchbooks recently. But have a bunch of videos planned, and intent to upload more regularly going forwards 😊
Hello Will, thank you for these tutorials. They are very informative. I have made some watercolor sketchbooks for practicing using Canson XL mixed media 140 lb cold pressed paper. I've noticed that no matter how tightly I clamp the text block to glue the spine, once completed there is some tearing on the surface of the paper near the spine where the book opens up between the signatures. It is only between the signatures on the inside that I see this issue. Do you have any suggestions to avoid this? I am wondering if it is because it's not cotton paper. If so, do you have any suggestions for using mixed media paper? I always make sure the grain is running with the spine so I'm pretty sure that's not why.
Hey. Difficult to say without seeing the book. I have made books with mixed media paper before with no issues, but some paper is more delicate than others. The only thing I can think to fix this is either to use a hardier paper, preferably 100% cotton, and/or to press more tightly using a bookbinding press
Hi and thank you for these tutorials! They are the best ones I have found. Am waiting for supplies in the mail. But I have one question about the bookboard. It doesn't seem to be archival or acid free? Does this not matter? Also I wondered about gluing the spine, you glue over the linen ribbons.. I saw another tutorial and he made a point about them not being glued, they should be free to move. I didn't see this in this video but in the first video. Again thank you very much for great instructions! 🙏🙏
Hey. Thanks! I buy my board from J Hewit. They don't specify if it's archival, but I would be very surprised if it wasn't - they are high-end professional suppliers. But I must say you've peaked my interest and I will email them to find out. I don't think the linen tape should be free to move - it should glued down.
WOW! Attention to detail! Love it! Do you ever use Arches cold pressed? And, it would be great if you could put US prices on website…? I’m looking at the largest vertical style. Thank you for preciseness. And, I like the amount of overhang of the cover to the block. Great job! Thanks, and God Bless.
Thanks! Yes I have made a few books with Arches cold press for custom orders. It's very similar to Saunders Waterford. You can see that paper in practice in the books I sell on my website. 😊
This was excellent mate, iam a professional artist and Bookbinder as well. I make my own line of luxury watercolor sketchbooks. I do however use exspensive veg-tanned goatskin leathers ( mostly from Italy and France) and I hand marble paper for end pages, and the option of 1/2 cover Bind, 1/4 cover bindings as well. I use all the top professional artist grade 100% cotton watercolor paper Brands, and I mostly buy them in industrial rolls ( when available). I also make sketchbooks with the Strathmore 500 series 100% cotton line. They have Bristol plate 100% cotton, Bristol Vellum 100% cotton, Semi-smooth 100%, mixed media 100% cotton and heavyweight mixed board 100% cotton. I get my supplies from Talas located in the states, where I live. I always love to see how others make their sketchbooks, Binding techniques, the materials they use, and where they get them from. I remember you 1st video from awhile ago, and it was the only Video on YT for awhile.... that actually showed how to make a good sketchbook. Most videos are the quick coptic stitched vids, or vids that gave ZERO information on how, what, why and what with. Job well done, and thanks for another excellent vid! Have a great one
Thanks, I really appreciate that! I got excited when you mentioned rolls, as I’ve been looking at how I can reduce my materials cost, but alas they’re no cheaper than by the sheet, in the UK at least. I’ve had no joy so far trying to buy direct from the manufacturer. I’m impressed you manage to make it work using so many different papers as standard - do you not need to carry a massive amount of stock? I just stick to Fabriano Artistico and Saunders Waterford to keep it simple, and then order in paper every now and then for custom orders. I think of mine as professional books rather than luxury, which is why I stick to buckram - you just can’t beat it in a studio environment. Marbling paper is really cool though, I haven’t tried it but it does look like fun. Thanks again for your kind words 😊
@@WillJBailey hey mate, I never got a notice that you responded... but nevertheless your video just popped up on my auto-play again lol. Iam very surprised that the rolls are not any cheaper than the imperial sheets, specially in the UK where you live, because all the best professional paper mills are over there! My absolute favorite paper is Saunders Waterford High white cold press, and I always buy an extra roll just for myself to create watercolor painting with. But unfortunately the Saunders rolls are hard to find in the states and they are much more exspensive here than anywhere else. That's actually how I found Talas in the USA, because they always have the Saunders rolls in stock, and sell veg-tan goatskin leathers imported from France and Italy. The Arches rolls can be found anywhere, even on Amazon. The Arches rolls usually fluctuate in price a bit, they usually fall in the price range of $200 - 220 usd. The Arches rolls are 44.5" x 10 yards long. That is much cheaper than buying in sheets here for sure. The Saunders rolls are definitely more expensive @ $310 -330 usd, because the Saunders rolls arent carried by many retailers here, and they are definitely larger than the Arches rolls. The Saunders rolls are 61" wide and 11 yards long, plus they always leave atleast another 1 to 2 feet extra run off after the 11 yards. They leave extra incase there are any imperfections on the rolls... so they always leave an extra foot or 2 after the 11 yards. And to answer your question about the inventory... yes, I do have quite a large inventory of paper. It happened naturally throughout time tho lol, I didn't just start by buying tons and tons of paper. Like I said iam a full-time professional artist and binder, plus I teach private art and binding lessons here in my art studio and bindery. So iam always buying alot of professional 100% cotton papers for my personal use for making art pieces. Also from getting many requests and bookings for orders, and having the proper paper I want my private lessons to be using without leaving them to the vast world of art papers lol... because 10 times out 10, a beginner or amateur will ALWAYS ALWAYS cheap out on their paper before any other supply!! when infact the paper is just as important, if not more, when it comes to things like watercolor and colored pencil work. So I always bought more than I needed, and i would use the left over for lessons or personal art projects. Then I would get more bookings for orders for that particular paper not to long after, and I would just buy a roll or a bulk order of imperial sheets. My inventory had become so big that I had to hire someone specifically to keep track of the paper inventory. Also to keep it all in a full 3 month rotation schedule. That way the older paper is not sitting off somewhere in a dark corner and sits for a year or so. That way I know that the paper is constantly being used up and not sitting for more than 3 months. I also test all the paper before making anything with it. I test a few different mediums on that specific batch to make sure the sizing hasn't gone off, and I test the PH of the paper to make sure it hasn't become acidic as well. The acidity is actually the biggest threat to ANY inventory of professional 100% cotton papers... 10 fold for watercolor paper. Because when paper in imperial sheets are sent out, or rolls are sent out... they are packaged in boxes for temporary transport, and aren't acid free for storage ( besides Saunders, they use acid free cardboard and wrap all their paper in protective polyethylene uncoated plastic) so people get the misperception that they can safely store their professional papers in the boxes they came in. When infact they leach acid into the paper and quickly deteriorate the sizing of the paper. It exponentially Excells the deterioration of the sizing. So when I get all my paper in ( rolls and imperial sheet bulk orders ) I remove them from the boxes they come in ( besides Saunders) and I put " painters plastic drop cloth " ( which is uncoated polyethylene plastic) inside all of the boxes leaving it hanging out on all sides. Then I get Archival ph neutral tissue paper that is used for wrapping old photos and antiques in.. and I but 2 layers of that over the plastic. Then I rest the paper safely in the Archival tissue paper. I wrap all the tissue paper and plastic over the paper, covering the top of it... and close up the boxes and put them in the designated shelving system spots. It's definitely alot of of extra work, but it is worth a million in the long run! I've had sizing go bad on paper before, because it was laying in one of those large flat boxes that they ship the imperial sheets out in... and it made the paper go bad because those boxes arent acid free. I always buy a bunch of those Lineco " ph testing pens " to check any boxes and packing materials for acidity, so iam ontop of it now lol. I would check out Amazon and other places for the rolls of paper... because it definitely depends on where you get it - to what the cost difference will be, some will price hike and some will discount. All of the best mills are over there in Europe, so it definitely should be alot cheaper over there for paper. Anyways I've ranted enough, I hope you have a great day mate.
@@danieljamesbinderystu2968 Hey. Wow, thanks for that, that's so interesting. I never thought about how you might need to store paper long term to stop it spoiling. I never hold my stock for longer than a few weeks. It's currently 2 in the morning here. I'm making my latest video and I really want to go to bed, but I've done one take and now it's started raining loudly on my flat studio roof and I can't do my second. It's never the same the next day! Thanks for getting in touch! It's really nice to hear from a fellow bookbinder ☺
@@WillJBailey no problem at all, I was a bit surprised to see that you had responded so quickly lol, I know it's quite late there. Yeah the Saunders Waterford is now just becoming more popular here in the states. Alot of people really liked the winsor and newton 100% cotton watercolor paper! the one that Saunders mill was producing for them. So the old stock of the Winsor and Newton 100% cotton watercolor paper was being sold at a massive discount here!!. So people fell in love with it, and Winsor and Newton's contract ran up with Saint Cuthberts mill... and switched to another, which completely changed their paper entirely! That was basically alot of people introduction to Saunders Waterford papers, in a nut shell lol. Also Arches USA seems to be having major QC problems with their sizing the past 2 years!!! I've actually have had to send 2 rolls and a bunch of imperial sheets back to Blicks, because the sizing was REALLY bad! The paper acted like a sponge and just soaked the water straight through! AND alot of the Arches paper had wayyyy too much sizing on it, acting as a resist on the paper. It had spots all over it where the paint would immediately soak through, and spots that would completely resist paint.. all on the same sheet!! I've never had any issues with Saunders Waterford tho! Fabriano Artistico..and Fabriano handmade papers are always hit or miss. Once Fabriano started to print money for the French Government, their Quality has gone quite wacky. I've never had any major problems with Fabriano personally, but I've had many people ask " what's up with Fabriano, why does their paper feel different?!?" And " did Fabriano change the way they are making their paper?!?! ". But Honestly Will, I don't think you will have much luck going straight to these big companies, they will just shrug you off, OR send you to one of their distributors. I had however had success with getting ahold of people and getting a connection with Strathmore, for their 500 series 100% cotton paper and boards. Iam not sure where you purchase your paper from? But iam guessing Jacksons art? Any Binding supplies company will always charge a bit more because they don't sell high volumes of professional watercolor papers. So they don't get a really big discounts like the art supply shops do. I know Talas in the USA ships world wide. I honestly always shop around... 1st I'll check on Amazon ( I have a buisness account with them and get discounts on stuff. You should look into doing the same, it's quite easy and quick ) to check out the prices for the rolls of Arches and Fabriano Artistico. Then I check Blicks, then I Check Jackson art, then I will check Cheap Joe's art supply, then I check Jerry's artarama. I also Check prices of imperial sheets and rolls at Talas. TALAS carries everything, literally every paper I could ever want and need. I buy alot of my paper from them, the paper I use for Hand marbling papers. They carry print making papers ( the best for marbling ) they carry fine art papers down to the every day cheap binding papers! The only draw back is... that some are more exspensive at Talas. Jerry's art supply also has alot of sales as well. So I know all of the bigger art supply stores in the USA ship world wide... but iam not sure what you have around you besides Jacksons art?? The best way is to shop around and compare the prices for rolls against imperial sheets. But you should definitely be able to find rolls that are much cheaper than buying a bunch of imperial sheets. Per square foot, or even per square inch... the rolls can't be beat in price here! The papers that come from france and The UK mills are much more exspensive in the states. I do get a discount on Imperial sheets, depending on how much I buy.... 10 sheets is usually discounted a $1 per sheet, 30 sheets is discounted around 2$ a sheet... and usually anything over 50 sheets I'll get a larger discount per sheet. but it still doesn't compare to the price and size of the rolls, if I can get them in that brand and type. I would definitely check into making buisness accounts with all the larger art supply stores all over Will. If you let them know you are a small business, you can usually set up a business account with all these places... which will give you extra discounts and free shipping. I know Talas always ships my orders out overnight for free... but I buy alot of print making papers for marbling, goatskin leather hides, rolls of Saunders watercolor paper, and any other supplies I need like Davey board, PVA, EVA, linen threads and such. I believe if you buy over a certain amount ( like $100 usd )they ship worldwide for free, for anyone regardless if you have an account with them or not. Sometimes I find its cheaper to buy from Jacksons art in the UK and I get free shipping. I have found that sometimes making friends with someone at a smaller art store/shop... goes along way! I also make my own line of professional artist grade watercolor paints from rare pigments, hard to find and discounted pigments, historical pigments and I even learned how to make pigments from semiprecious stones myself ( like lapis lazuli, malachite, Azurite etc etc) I've made some friends from smaller art shops in NYC, and now Iam able to get my hands on alot of discounted pigments that way. I also get huge discounts on alot of hard to find pigments, and exspensive cobalt pigments as well. If you let these smaller businesses know that you yourself are a small business... they will help you out more times than not! They will let you make a buisness account with them. Just look into all the major art shops and what their prices are... than look on Amazon and in smaller shops, then go for the best price! The prices of art supplies and paper are constantly fluctuating very dramatically. So it will be super over priced in one place... and heavily discounted at another place. It's a constant price battle among the retailers lmao that's for sure 🤣🤣 you just got ctach who has the " hot prices " at that moment. Make those small buisness accounts with places and they usually give you free shipping for your orders. Have a good one mate
@@WillJBailey ohhh and I forgot to mention... I was using Buckram as well, but when I found a company that makes AMAZING pure linen fabric, I switched! It definitely doesn't cut costs, but the linen just looks and feels much more luxurious. It gives the books a type of a intellectual old school look to them! I just use Heat and bond to adhere the Archival tissue paper to back it..and it is now linen book cloth. I have rolls and rolls of fabric now in inventory, fabric that I put hand work into. The place also makes linen fabric ( tight woven and lose woven - my choice ) with these gorgeous geometric patters on it. And once I put the Archival tissue paper backing, I spray it with a permanent waterproof scotch-gaurd. It makes it water resistant and is very hard wearing. Just something you might be interested looking into. It's never a bad idea to tryout new things. It might not cut your costs down... but it is something that will make you sketchbooks more valuable in selling them. The Linen always looks super classy on books! Anyway... have a good one
Thank you for this very well constructed and precise tutorial. It is the most interesting and complete one I could find! 👌That said, I have a big question: Why pay so much attention to the direction of the sheet fibres? It is true that folding is less easy when it is done across the fibres, but this is anecdotal, isn't it ? You talk about respecting the direction of the grain "to prevent warping": but what warping are you talking about? 😶
Hi. The paper needs to naturally curl towards the spine. If the grain direction is the wrong way, it will try to curl inwards but can't, because of binding, so the corners will curl inwards and the book can warp. This is particularly important if you use wet media.
Thank you so much for this very elaborated tutorial. You kinda made me want to get into bookbinding now. 😊 But for now I just want to make myself a discbound sketchbook, to allow me some flexibility, and what you said about the grain of the paper got me wondering: does the direction of the paper (300 gsm, 100% cotton) still matters for a discbound sketchbook, or a spiral bound sketchbook for that matter? The intended use is mostly for watercolour.
Thanks! 😊🙏 It's best practice to have the paper grain run in line with the spine, regardless of the binding. It's not the end of the world if you don't, but you might find the paper curls up at the corners.
I windered if you could explain how we could add different end papers instead of those that are part of the text block. I bought some beautiful fawn coloured end paper and wanted to use that but am unsure if I need to glue it completely to the cover and first page front and back of the text block, if thar makes sense.
Hi. You can use different paper for the end papers for sure - the process is the same. Glue them on to the text block with a 2cm strip, and then glue the text block to the cover.
Thanks for the tutorial. I have two questions: 1. Can you explain what is the purpose of the linen tape? Will they raise the end papers and create a bump when painting or sketching on the pages closest to the front or end of the book. Can we leave them out? 2. I used 300 gsm paper and when I put two pages together, as they are so thick, the inner one sticks out by 1 or 2 mm. Should I then trim it down so they are flushed? I am wondering how come you don't seem to have this issue. My book size is 6 in by 9 in. Thank you.
The sewing only holds the signatures together at the two ends... The glue alone may be enough to join them together along the whole length, but the strips reinforce this connection across the spine and the block is thus more coherent and resistant. If you want to do without the linen strips, I advise you to change your sewing method and to connect each stitch to the stitch of the previous signature (and not to do it only at the 2 ends) As for the gap between the sheets, it is normal. You have 3 solutions: either accept it as having a certain charm, or get rid of it by recutting the whole block by 2 millimetres, or join the sheets one by one (not 2 by 2)
@@graceng5525In addition, I think that using a "french link stitch" may allow to have an enhanced link between the different signatures... ruclips.net/video/MpB1egXKaeM/видео.html
Hi Will, I am so excited to try your techniques! I have tried a little bookmaking in the past, but your knowledge and methods are top notch! I also prefer Fabriano Extra White Hot Pressed paper, and have a 12x18" block I bought on sale. In addition I have it in a smaller size block, but will probably only cut down the 12x18" I want to make small books for zentangle tiles, preferably about 4" square plus the folding space. One question: how should I divide my paper for this? My other question: have you ever added an elastic to your books? Thanks so much! Karen
Thanks Karen! The most efficient way to do it, without wastage, is to determine the grain direction of the paper then fold it evenly , as per video. If you want to make a square book to a specific size, you’ll need to tear or cut a section of the paper off first, then fold it evenly. Good luck! 😊
Will, I have a question about what you said around 4:55 min. Why would it necessarily take 2.5 sheets of Fabriano paper to make a small landscape book? ( you even mentioned you save half a sheet for a second small book). Isn't the amount of wc paper sheets used solely dependent on how many signatures you want the book to have? You could have 8 signatures (2 entire sheets), or have 12 signatures (3 entire sheets). The 2.5 sheets you said it will take is assuming you want exactly 10 signatures, is that correct? Is 10 signatures a "sweet spot" for you, based on how you use the sketchbook? Do you do on-location sketching and have to carry the book around? I have a store bought Fabriano 5 sketchbook (which is 50% cotton, so a slightly thinner paper, although also 300gsm and 140# and suitable for wet media). This store bought Fabriano 5 book has only 6 signatures which makes it considerably lighter (but obviously has less pages, I think 32 or so). My first book (following your 1st video) had 10 signatures, like yours, and used 5 sheets of Fabriano. That book is quite thick to carry around in my bag. The large 11x11 I am making right now I decided on 8 signatures to cut down the weight, but at the same time have enough pages to last a while without having to make another one! I imagine you can make these as thick as you want, but the thicker they are, the heavier they will be, and the thinner they are the more sketchbooks you will need to make, which has a materials and time cost. Just curious as to why you picked 10 signatures as your go-to thickness. Thanks!!
Hey. Yes I think 40 pages is a sweet spot, but you could happily use 3 sheets and make 48 pages. Also With Saunders Waterford I prefer to make 2 books from 10 sheets so that one book has all-cut bottom edges and the other all torn, otherwise you have a mix of the two.
Thank you for the follow up video. Sharing all your learning in great details has been superbly useful. Ive been wanting to make my own watercolor sketchbook but just don’t have the confidence! Identifying the grain direction is still a fuzzy idea 🤦🏻♀️ I was checking your website and didn’t find many books for sale. Will you be adding more or take orders for specific papers?
Good morning 👋 Thank you so much for this great video 👍 I have A4 pages of Arches watercolour cold pressed paper and the grain is very difficult to determine. On the internet I read that all sheets are long grain. How would you fold a A4 sheet which is long grain to make a book ? Thank you so much for your help 🙏 Nathalie
Yes, the 76x56 sheets of Arches paper are long grain. If you start with A4 sheets for your sketchbook, chances are they were cut from A0 and are long grain too. But it is not difficult to determine this by bending the sheet in one direction and then in another. You can easily feel the difference depending on the direction of the fibres: when you bend it across the fibres, the sheet resists the bending more!
@@WillJBailey Hi Will, I have a question regarding the grain as well. When you say that Fabriano Artistico is short grain while Arches and Saunders Waterford are long grain, does this apply to their pads, sheets and even rolls of paper? I read somewhere that the grain direction is typically listed last (eg 297 x 210 is short grain) but then that doesn't coincide with how Artistico's sizes are listed (eg 22" x 30"). I also have a roll of Artistico paper that is 1.4x10m and I'm assuming the grain is along the long side since it's rolled that way?
I enjoyed both of your videos on making these books. I do have a question, though. Where can I source the same materials you are using but in the United States? Thanks so much.
Thanks Mindy! 🙏Sorry I’m afraid I’m not sure about US suppliers. This came up on Google if it’s any help dasbookbinding.com/2020/03/27/bookbinding-suppliers/ 😊
Thank you so much forcthese two outstanding videos. I was taking detailed notes! You have an eye for detail, a clear advantage as a bookbinder. Your second video builds up and enhances the excellent tips of the first one. I especially appreciTed the measurements, folding and cutting options for the different types of paper, according to tbeir long or short grain properties. You just got a new subscriber! Thanks so kuch, Will!
I have cut all the paper for a large sketch book and I see from this video that I misunderstood and have gotten it backwards. The SG of the paper is with the fold. What can I expect to happen to this book? Should I cut the book board in a different direction. And please help me understand this better. I guess I need you to hold the paper and the spine to show me the grain and what parallel visually becomes. Thank you for this tutorial. I love doing this and made one small book but it is the wrong direction also.
Hi Neta. Did you watch the first video? That explains how to work out the grain direction etc. If you've got it the wrong way round it's not the end of the world, you'll probably find the corners start to curl up.
@@netacourcey138 Ah, thanks Neta 🙏😊 I think of it like a sushi rolling matt - sticks joined together by string, which will bend easily in one direction, due to the gaps between the sticks, and more difficult in the other, because of the strength of the sticks. The grain direction runs along the sticks. When you bend the paper and you can feel it resisting, you are 'bending the sticks', and these need to run from the bottom of the book to the top of the book. If you take a softback book and try and bend it holding the bottom and top, it's very difficult because of the spine. But holding the sides it's very easy - the pages naturally curl. This is what you're after - for the pages to naturally curl as you open it. Hope that makes sense!
These tutorials are seriously at the level of paid for tutorials/ online classes. Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge for free.
Thank you!! ☺
I just want to say I really appreciate how you speak with a short pause in between each sentence and a long pause in between a subject change . It really gives my brain a chance to process the information .
Take notes other RUclipsrs !!! Lol
I have so much respect for your artistry and passion for bookbinding 😊
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial.
First video was full of so many insightful little tips that have taken away a lot of the anxiety from the more finicky bits of this process, and now you've improved it even more! I really appreciate that you share this info even though you sell these books yourself!
Thanks Sean! 😊
I have watched part 1 and 2 of this tutorial, done taking notes from both of the video and what I need to do now is just to gather the materials and tools to try doing it! I'm really excited to try making one of these DIY hardback watercolor sketchbook for my urban sketching (while secretly showing off my pretty handmade sketchbook to my friends 😂) Thank you so much for this piece of gold of a tutorial for free, keep spreading knowledge kind sir!
So love this. Such a great tutorial for those of us a bit more detail-oriented. Other tutorials have been good, but have glossed over some of the finer details. You've hit all the notes here Will. Great professional presentation, and all one needs to make a very professional journal. Thanks!
Ah, thanks Katrina 🙏 Appreciate that! 😊
I avoid using the bone folder for cutting, as it seems to tear often. Instead, just burnish, turn inside out, burnish, repeat, repeat, repeat. Then you can tear without fear of mistakes, but go carefully. If it looks like it’s sticking, stop and burnish a couple more times. Usually this is only necessary for the first large cut.
I've been drooling over a hand made sketchbook with the cold press cotton paper for more than 6months now. Wasn't able to purchase one due to the price. Then a light bulb moment happened. I had all the paper and supplies on hand but never considered making my own custom one. I'm so glad to have found your channel. You may have started a fire in me for custom sketchbook making. I'm glad to see more people picking up these kind of skills. Thank you for the mountain of knowledge in these videos. 🥰 I agree 100% about the hot press paper, it's been my favorite for a long time. Much love to you from Texas. ✌️
Ah, thank you! 🙏😊
Excellent tutorials. I've been binding books for some years now, and some of your suggestions will be very useful in the future. A couple of things I do differently. When applying the adhesive it usually spills a little outside the piece. So the next piece you work with might get stained. To avoid this I use an old magazine as the base, and turn the pages as I go along applying adhesive to the next pieces. Also, I use Japanese binding for the leftover paper. Probably more suitable for notebooks than scketchbooks, but nice anyway. Greetings from Chile (a Spanish speaking land)
Thanks! Yes keeping glue off the cloth and end papers is really important. I keep a constant eye out for any spillage, with a lightly damp cloth at hand. And I regularly wipe down my surfaces, particularly during and after every glueing stage. I generally don't have much leftover paper, unless a customer requests a different size requiring wastage, though I do have a drawer full of scraps from mistakes or where the paper was marked.
Looks (a lot) better than my first attempt at making a WC sketchbook. I used the coptic stitch method (practical for a beginner like me, no special bookbinding tools/materials needed) . It worked, but it turned out a bit scruffy.
It was an experimental project, using a WC paper I wasn't very happy about anyway, a relatively cheap non cotton paper.
I wouldn't risk using expensive 100% paper before I have more experience at this. Sourcing materials is a bit of a problem in my remote neck of the woods...
Thank you. My mom was professional of book binding, and in childhood I made my own books. But of course I didn’t do I for year now, and forget some steps. But as I couldn’t find good affordable watercolour sketch book, I thought to make by myself, but I couldn’t remember, sewing process, so I’m really happy I found your tutorial, and catch up missing steps. So next step is find free time to make it 🤭
you are bloody brilliant. You are so concise, and well spoken. Very grateful, thank you for your hard work ☺️
Ah, thank you! I really appreciate that 🙏😊
Wonderful Will - a superb video. I've made my first text block and await the arrival of tools and materials to continue. I love the feeling of the paper and the process through which the block emerges. Excellent teaching: the mark of quality runs through it. Many thanks.
Ah, thank you! 🙏😊
The details you provide have been so helpful in allowing me to better understand your process. Thank you for sharing all you have learned about how to create a quality sketch book. After having watched both this video and your previous one, I feel more confident about making my own sketch books.
Thank you!! ☺
Many thanks for the in-depth explanation in the last video and the update in this one. All the information is most welcome.
Thanks Tina! 🙏😊
Thank you for this tutorial. Is one of the easiest methods I’ve seen and well explained.
Thank you! ☺
I love the level of detail in your videos ❤ chef kiss
Thanks for this, I've been using your tutorial to make my own sketchbooks for a couple of months now. I've made 4 books now. I use Khadi cotton rags for my books and it works fine...
Thanks Sander! 🙏😊
Thank you for sharing all this info.
Thankyou for this great follow up video. Thanks to you I can finally tie the proper knot! I have followed many instructions and videos in the past but yours are the best! Your instructions are very clear and easy to follow, congratulations!
I've ordered one of your sketchbooks and looking forward to getting it.
Thanks Glenda! ☺
Cannot thank you enough. Just made my third one. It’s beautiful and this time I used Arches NOT and drawing paper together! It’s perfect. Thank you so very much.
😊🙏👍
Hi Will. I just found your channel today through your tutorial for artwork photography. I was curious and browsed through your channel to find out you have very other interesting tutorials, explained very well and clearly. Thank you so so much! You are admirable ❤
Amazing work. I appreciate your efforts and dedication. Thank you for sharing your knowledge for free 🙏🙏
Hi Will, I have been studying bookbinding for a while now, and gathering lots of supplies with the intention of making books and journals. I’ve made a few that turned out well thus far, but I’m as a serious information junkie, as well as being rather frugal/conservative with my supplies, I am trying to learn what mistakes to avoid so as not to waste 💸 costly materials. Before seeing this video, I purchased that same press here in the US. I found the back and side baffles to be unnecessary and restricting so I removed them, first consulting with my engineer son if it would compromise the integrity of the press (he said it wouldn’t) and I’m happy to report that it works perfectly well and allows me to press larger books using boards without as much size constraints, especially from front to back. It may not apply as much outer pressure with large books, but when using very sturdy wood boards top and bottom, that helps overcome this and my pressing ends up being quite even. I’m finding your videos to be very helpful, so thank you very much! I am about to begin making a large wedding album and need it to be as perfect as possible with no expense spared. I do find that it can sometimes be difficult to know paper grain direction when ordering large sheets as it’s sometimes not noted on websites (rather frustrating). For this reason, I went to an art supply store and chose the large sheets of Fabriano Italian made watercolour paper in person since I was able to determine the grain direction myself. The large album I’m making will be in landscape orientation. I chose watercolour paper because I like texture and sturdiness and was also able to get a brighter white which will go with the colour theme of the wedding (instead of off-white or ivory which seems to be more common with this sort of paper). I also like the natural deckle edges. I should note that I am a professional paper maker and instructor but I do not make extremely large sheets. The Fabriano paper is quite pricy but as mentioned, I don’t have a price restriction on this album so I will purchase whatever I need to get this done right. I am also adding glassine between each album page (photos will later be inserted by recipients with photo corners), using my Mum and Dad’s 1950s [English] wedding album as inspiration. Anyway, apologies as I’ve obviously started to ramble on 😂. Thanks again Will! 😊📚
Thank you for the tutorial. Please, I'd like to know if the cardboards for the cover must be larger than the signatures.
Thank you.
Hi again Will! I made my first sketchbook a while back after watching your first tutorial (we chatted a couple of times thru the other video comments). Now that I wanted to make another, of different size, I bumped into this "part 2" of tricks of the trade - excellent! Thank you for taking the time to share your process improvements! I wanted to make a square book, so I went for 11x11 inches to use the full sheet at least on the shorter direction. I felt that the full 11x15 would be too heavy, but I think it this one will be almost as heavy! I just folded the paper by adapting your process (but same principle). I have 1s and 2s only, as I have only 2 pieces of paper from each sheet. I was able to reverse engineer your logic of the 1,2,3,4 to end up with the "right" texture on each spread. I almost (foolishly!) disregarded the "2 sides" warning you gave, and I am glad I looked at it under light as it is quite different ( I used the Fabriano Artistico SOFT press, and the back of the sheet has a really weird diagonal line pattern, whereas the front has a very soft slightly textured surface). So I am glad I took the time to assemble the signatures as you explained so at least i have each "spread with the same texture. But now I have a pile of excellent wc paper strips that are ~ 7.5 x 22 inches!!! What to do with it... (yes, the "waste" you mentioned, I just wanted to try though). Of course it would be excellent to make a cool landscape book 7.5 x 11 from the leftover paper, if it wasn't for the fact that I would need to fold the strips against the grain. I tried one and it is pretty ugly, lol - the paper flakes badly at the fold. I am not sure what to do with it in terms of a book, I might just use it as single pieces cut in half or just go for it and try to sew and bind against the grain. Any suggestions? The square book is coming out great though!
Thanks! Yes there's always wastage with square books unfortunately. Still it's not a bad thing to have scraps to hand for tests etc, or if the pieces are large enough you could make another book
thanks for this, i love your super informative vids, just as you posted this i was contemplating a pack of large watercolour sheets i want to turn into a book
Thanks Louise 😊 good luck! 👍
Really wanted to see a landscape version!
Hey, the process is the same really, it's just how the paper is torn down.
Thanks for your excellent videos! Does this style journal pages lie flat?
thank you!! i wanted to try upcycle a vintage book cover but i was scared to waste the book & the paper as i haven’t tried bookbinding before. this is so helpful
Thanks Annabella 🙏 Good luck! 😊
@WillJBailey hi, Will, thank you so much for this tutorial, it's just what I was looking for, I improved my technique a lot. Still I seem to have a problem with my diy sketchbook.
I see your sketchbooks lay absolutely flat, mine don't. Instead they tear apart between the signatures and there is a gap between them. Have you ever had the same issue and what can I do about it? I use 300 gsm cotton paper though not fabriano (I use baohong)
I used this and part 1 to learn how to make sketch books and I have to say that your presentation made it really easy to learn. Good-sized chunks of information, with logical pauses in between so I don't feel rushed. I've made several books, of varying sizes (and success) and now I've started working with 300g Fabriano Artistico papers. In your first video you showed how you could cleanly rip the paper with a bone folder, and then in this one you showed how that could still be done, but with a bit more effort and care. My question to you is two-part; I use a bone folder but the edges, no matter how careful I go, fast or slow, always look ripped and jagged. Part 2 is, I started using a scalpel to cut the pages, which made much cleaner edges but some sources say cutting watercolour paper shouldn't be done. What's your opinion on this and do you have any suggestions for cleaner tears?
Hey. Thanks! Yes, using a bone folder creates torn edges, which is the specific look I go for - it looks and feel hand made and shows off the cotton. But there's no right or wrong. If you want clean edges you could use a pad instead of sheets, or you could use a scalpel and cutting ruler, or you could use a rotary cutter.
@@WillJBaileyfor what it's worth, I did a bit of experimenting and found that creasing the pages as you showed in video 1. Using the tip of the bone folder to make a slight tear, but instead of walking the bone folder along the crease, flip the page and gently tear the page in half made a much nicer look than when cut. And, the page ends didn't look like they were cut with a steak knife.
Also, following on with your comment that there are many different materials that make for great covers, I found you can do so much with leather. It's great for dying any colour and finishes the look very nicely. I look forward to more tutorials!
Thank you for both videos - I found them very detailed and comprehensive. Have you made or thought about making square format sketchbooks?
Thanks! I've made square books for customers before, it's just a bit wasteful when tearing down large sheets. You have to discard quite a bit of paper.
@@WillJBailey thanks. Yes the wastage is an issue, unless you have a use for the off cuts
Thank you very much for your videos! I was just yesterday wondering if I could in any way make a sketchbook with proper 300 gsm watercolour paper rather than the, otherwise useful but bulky, ” Fat pads” I have. And somehow RUclips guessed what I wanted and suddenly your video was there without any searching from me;-)! Absolutely brilliant!
I just wonder one thing, I live in Sweden and have had some trouble in finding proper book binding glue. Does ordinary PVA glue work ( apart from the acid free point ) or is it too stiff?
Thanks Charlotta! 🙏 There are different types of PVA glue, with varying ingredients / characteristics. You can get PVA made for builders for example, designed to seal plaster, PVA designed to be safe for children to glue paper, PVA for artists to seal canvas. The one I use is specifically for bookbinding, designed to delaminate with water, to be Ph neutral and to remain flexible over time, but if you can’t get hold of this, yes I think you could use another type. I haven’t tried any so can’t make any specific recommendations, but I would suggest looking at ones designed for artists / conservation like this: www.jacksonsart.com/lineco-arcare-white-neutral-ph-pva-adhesive-8oz-dispenser-bottle 😊
@@WillJBailey Thank you for your quick reply and the useful information and link! These were s the best sketchbook making videos I have seen!
Very clean result and amazing explanations, thank you. Happy new year by theway!
Ah, Thank you! 🙏 Happy new year! 😊
Hope you’re well. I miss your videos. Don’t mean to be a snoop it’s just with Covid, one never knows Hope you’re just busy enjoying all your wonderful creations
Thanks Liana. I’m still here! Yes it’s been way too long since my last video. Life got in the way, including making many many sketchbooks recently. But have a bunch of videos planned, and intent to upload more regularly going forwards 😊
Hello Will, thank you for these tutorials. They are very informative. I have made some watercolor sketchbooks for practicing using Canson XL mixed media 140 lb cold pressed paper. I've noticed that no matter how tightly I clamp the text block to glue the spine, once completed there is some tearing on the surface of the paper near the spine where the book opens up between the signatures. It is only between the signatures on the inside that I see this issue. Do you have any suggestions to avoid this? I am wondering if it is because it's not cotton paper. If so, do you have any suggestions for using mixed media paper? I always make sure the grain is running with the spine so I'm pretty sure that's not why.
Hey. Difficult to say without seeing the book. I have made books with mixed media paper before with no issues, but some paper is more delicate than others. The only thing I can think to fix this is either to use a hardier paper, preferably 100% cotton, and/or to press more tightly using a bookbinding press
Hi and thank you for these tutorials! They are the best ones I have found. Am waiting for supplies in the mail. But I have one question about the bookboard. It doesn't seem to be archival or acid free? Does this not matter? Also I wondered about gluing the spine, you glue over the linen ribbons.. I saw another tutorial and he made a point about them not being glued, they should be free to move. I didn't see this in this video but in the first video. Again thank you very much for great instructions! 🙏🙏
Hey. Thanks! I buy my board from J Hewit. They don't specify if it's archival, but I would be very surprised if it wasn't - they are high-end professional suppliers. But I must say you've peaked my interest and I will email them to find out. I don't think the linen tape should be free to move - it should glued down.
Perfect! Thank you.
😊
WOW! Attention to detail! Love it! Do you ever use Arches cold pressed? And, it would be great if you could put US prices on website…? I’m looking at the largest vertical style. Thank you for preciseness. And, I like the amount of overhang of the cover to the block. Great job! Thanks, and God Bless.
Thanks! Yes I have made a few books with Arches cold press for custom orders. It's very similar to Saunders Waterford. You can see that paper in practice in the books I sell on my website. 😊
Thank you for sharing 🙏🏻
🙏😊
Excellent content as always. Thank you so much! 😄
Thanks Dani! 😊🙏
This was excellent mate, iam a professional artist and Bookbinder as well. I make my own line of luxury watercolor sketchbooks. I do however use exspensive veg-tanned goatskin leathers ( mostly from Italy and France) and I hand marble paper for end pages, and the option of 1/2 cover Bind, 1/4 cover bindings as well. I use all the top professional artist grade 100% cotton watercolor paper Brands, and I mostly buy them in industrial rolls ( when available). I also make sketchbooks with the Strathmore 500 series 100% cotton line. They have Bristol plate 100% cotton, Bristol Vellum 100% cotton, Semi-smooth 100%, mixed media 100% cotton and heavyweight mixed board 100% cotton. I get my supplies from Talas located in the states, where I live. I always love to see how others make their sketchbooks, Binding techniques, the materials they use, and where they get them from. I remember you 1st video from awhile ago, and it was the only Video on YT for awhile.... that actually showed how to make a good sketchbook. Most videos are the quick coptic stitched vids, or vids that gave ZERO information on how, what, why and what with. Job well done, and thanks for another excellent vid! Have a great one
Thanks, I really appreciate that! I got excited when you mentioned rolls, as I’ve been looking at how I can reduce my materials cost, but alas they’re no cheaper than by the sheet, in the UK at least. I’ve had no joy so far trying to buy direct from the manufacturer. I’m impressed you manage to make it work using so many different papers as standard - do you not need to carry a massive amount of stock? I just stick to Fabriano Artistico and Saunders Waterford to keep it simple, and then order in paper every now and then for custom orders. I think of mine as professional books rather than luxury, which is why I stick to buckram - you just can’t beat it in a studio environment. Marbling paper is really cool though, I haven’t tried it but it does look like fun. Thanks again for your kind words 😊
@@WillJBailey hey mate, I never got a notice that you responded... but nevertheless your video just popped up on my auto-play again lol. Iam very surprised that the rolls are not any cheaper than the imperial sheets, specially in the UK where you live, because all the best professional paper mills are over there! My absolute favorite paper is Saunders Waterford High white cold press, and I always buy an extra roll just for myself to create watercolor painting with. But unfortunately the Saunders rolls are hard to find in the states and they are much more exspensive here than anywhere else. That's actually how I found Talas in the USA, because they always have the Saunders rolls in stock, and sell veg-tan goatskin leathers imported from France and Italy. The Arches rolls can be found anywhere, even on Amazon. The Arches rolls usually fluctuate in price a bit, they usually fall in the price range of $200 - 220 usd. The Arches rolls are 44.5" x 10 yards long. That is much cheaper than buying in sheets here for sure. The Saunders rolls are definitely more expensive @ $310 -330 usd, because the Saunders rolls arent carried by many retailers here, and they are definitely larger than the Arches rolls. The Saunders rolls are 61" wide and 11 yards long, plus they always leave atleast another 1 to 2 feet extra run off after the 11 yards. They leave extra incase there are any imperfections on the rolls... so they always leave an extra foot or 2 after the 11 yards.
And to answer your question about the inventory... yes, I do have quite a large inventory of paper. It happened naturally throughout time tho lol, I didn't just start by buying tons and tons of paper. Like I said iam a full-time professional artist and binder, plus I teach private art and binding lessons here in my art studio and bindery. So iam always buying alot of professional 100% cotton papers for my personal use for making art pieces. Also from getting many requests and bookings for orders, and having the proper paper I want my private lessons to be using without leaving them to the vast world of art papers lol... because 10 times out 10, a beginner or amateur will ALWAYS ALWAYS cheap out on their paper before any other supply!! when infact the paper is just as important, if not more, when it comes to things like watercolor and colored pencil work. So I always bought more than I needed, and i would use the left over for lessons or personal art projects. Then I would get more bookings for orders for that particular paper not to long after, and I would just buy a roll or a bulk order of imperial sheets. My inventory had become so big that I had to hire someone specifically to keep track of the paper inventory. Also to keep it all in a full 3 month rotation schedule. That way the older paper is not sitting off somewhere in a dark corner and sits for a year or so. That way I know that the paper is constantly being used up and not sitting for more than 3 months. I also test all the paper before making anything with it. I test a few different mediums on that specific batch to make sure the sizing hasn't gone off, and I test the PH of the paper to make sure it hasn't become acidic as well. The acidity is actually the biggest threat to ANY inventory of professional 100% cotton papers... 10 fold for watercolor paper. Because when paper in imperial sheets are sent out, or rolls are sent out... they are packaged in boxes for temporary transport, and aren't acid free for storage ( besides Saunders, they use acid free cardboard and wrap all their paper in protective polyethylene uncoated plastic) so people get the misperception that they can safely store their professional papers in the boxes they came in. When infact they leach acid into the paper and quickly deteriorate the sizing of the paper. It exponentially Excells the deterioration of the sizing. So when I get all my paper in ( rolls and imperial sheet bulk orders ) I remove them from the boxes they come in ( besides Saunders) and I put " painters plastic drop cloth " ( which is uncoated polyethylene plastic) inside all of the boxes leaving it hanging out on all sides. Then I get Archival ph neutral tissue paper that is used for wrapping old photos and antiques in.. and I but 2 layers of that over the plastic. Then I rest the paper safely in the Archival tissue paper. I wrap all the tissue paper and plastic over the paper, covering the top of it... and close up the boxes and put them in the designated shelving system spots. It's definitely alot of of extra work, but it is worth a million in the long run! I've had sizing go bad on paper before, because it was laying in one of those large flat boxes that they ship the imperial sheets out in... and it made the paper go bad because those boxes arent acid free. I always buy a bunch of those Lineco " ph testing pens " to check any boxes and packing materials for acidity, so iam ontop of it now lol. I would check out Amazon and other places for the rolls of paper... because it definitely depends on where you get it - to what the cost difference will be, some will price hike and some will discount. All of the best mills are over there in Europe, so it definitely should be alot cheaper over there for paper. Anyways I've ranted enough, I hope you have a great day mate.
@@danieljamesbinderystu2968 Hey. Wow, thanks for that, that's so interesting. I never thought about how you might need to store paper long term to stop it spoiling. I never hold my stock for longer than a few weeks. It's currently 2 in the morning here. I'm making my latest video and I really want to go to bed, but I've done one take and now it's started raining loudly on my flat studio roof and I can't do my second. It's never the same the next day! Thanks for getting in touch! It's really nice to hear from a fellow bookbinder ☺
@@WillJBailey no problem at all, I was a bit surprised to see that you had responded so quickly lol, I know it's quite late there. Yeah the Saunders Waterford is now just becoming more popular here in the states. Alot of people really liked the winsor and newton 100% cotton watercolor paper! the one that Saunders mill was producing for them. So the old stock of the Winsor and Newton 100% cotton watercolor paper was being sold at a massive discount here!!. So people fell in love with it, and Winsor and Newton's contract ran up with Saint Cuthberts mill... and switched to another, which completely changed their paper entirely! That was basically alot of people introduction to Saunders Waterford papers, in a nut shell lol. Also Arches USA seems to be having major QC problems with their sizing the past 2 years!!! I've actually have had to send 2 rolls and a bunch of imperial sheets back to Blicks, because the sizing was REALLY bad! The paper acted like a sponge and just soaked the water straight through! AND alot of the Arches paper had wayyyy too much sizing on it, acting as a resist on the paper. It had spots all over it where the paint would immediately soak through, and spots that would completely resist paint.. all on the same sheet!! I've never had any issues with Saunders Waterford tho! Fabriano Artistico..and Fabriano handmade papers are always hit or miss. Once Fabriano started to print money for the French Government, their Quality has gone quite wacky. I've never had any major problems with Fabriano personally, but I've had many people ask " what's up with Fabriano, why does their paper feel different?!?" And " did Fabriano change the way they are making their paper?!?! ". But
Honestly Will, I don't think you will have much luck going straight to these big companies, they will just shrug you off, OR send you to one of their distributors. I had however had success with getting ahold of people and getting a connection with Strathmore, for their 500 series 100% cotton paper and boards. Iam not sure where you purchase your paper from? But iam guessing Jacksons art? Any Binding supplies company will always charge a bit more because they don't sell high volumes of professional watercolor papers. So they don't get a really big discounts like the art supply shops do. I know Talas in the USA ships world wide. I honestly always shop around... 1st I'll check on Amazon ( I have a buisness account with them and get discounts on stuff. You should look into doing the same, it's quite easy and quick ) to check out the prices for the rolls of Arches and Fabriano Artistico. Then I check Blicks, then I Check Jackson art, then I will check Cheap Joe's art supply, then I check Jerry's artarama. I also Check prices of imperial sheets and rolls at Talas. TALAS carries everything, literally every paper I could ever want and need. I buy alot of my paper from them, the paper I use for Hand marbling papers. They carry print making papers ( the best for marbling ) they carry fine art papers down to the every day cheap binding papers! The only draw back is... that some are more exspensive at Talas. Jerry's art supply also has alot of sales as well. So I know all of the bigger art supply stores in the USA ship world wide... but iam not sure what you have around you besides Jacksons art?? The best way is to shop around and compare the prices for rolls against imperial sheets. But you should definitely be able to find rolls that are much cheaper than buying a bunch of imperial sheets. Per square foot, or even per square inch... the rolls can't be beat in price here! The papers that come from france and The UK mills are much more exspensive in the states. I do get a discount on Imperial sheets, depending on how much I buy.... 10 sheets is usually discounted a $1 per sheet, 30 sheets is discounted around 2$ a sheet... and usually anything over 50 sheets I'll get a larger discount per sheet. but it still doesn't compare to the price and size of the rolls, if I can get them in that brand and type. I would definitely check into making buisness accounts with all the larger art supply stores all over Will. If you let them know you are a small business, you can usually set up a business account with all these places... which will give you extra discounts and free shipping. I know Talas always ships my orders out overnight for free... but I buy alot of print making papers for marbling, goatskin leather hides, rolls of Saunders watercolor paper, and any other supplies I need like Davey board, PVA, EVA, linen threads and such. I believe if you buy over a certain amount ( like $100 usd )they ship worldwide for free, for anyone regardless if you have an account with them or not. Sometimes I find its cheaper to buy from Jacksons art in the UK and I get free shipping. I have found that sometimes making friends with someone at a smaller art store/shop... goes along way! I also make my own line of professional artist grade watercolor paints from rare pigments, hard to find and discounted pigments, historical pigments and I even learned how to make pigments from semiprecious stones myself ( like lapis lazuli, malachite, Azurite etc etc) I've made some friends from smaller art shops in NYC, and now Iam able to get my hands on alot of discounted pigments that way. I also get huge discounts on alot of hard to find pigments, and exspensive cobalt pigments as well. If you let these smaller businesses know that you yourself are a small business... they will help you out more times than not! They will let you make a buisness account with them. Just look into all the major art shops and what their prices are... than look on Amazon and in smaller shops, then go for the best price! The prices of art supplies and paper are constantly fluctuating very dramatically. So it will be super over priced in one place... and heavily discounted at another place. It's a constant price battle among the retailers lmao that's for sure 🤣🤣 you just got ctach who has the " hot prices " at that moment. Make those small buisness accounts with places and they usually give you free shipping for your orders. Have a good one mate
@@WillJBailey ohhh and I forgot to mention... I was using Buckram as well, but when I found a company that makes AMAZING pure linen fabric, I switched! It definitely doesn't cut costs, but the linen just looks and feels much more luxurious. It gives the books a type of a intellectual old school look to them! I just use Heat and bond to adhere the Archival tissue paper to back it..and it is now linen book cloth. I have rolls and rolls of fabric now in inventory, fabric that I put hand work into. The place also makes linen fabric ( tight woven and lose woven - my choice ) with these gorgeous geometric patters on it. And once I put the Archival tissue paper backing, I spray it with a permanent waterproof scotch-gaurd. It makes it water resistant and is very hard wearing. Just something you might be interested looking into. It's never a bad idea to tryout new things. It might not cut your costs down... but it is something that will make you sketchbooks more valuable in selling them. The Linen always looks super classy on books! Anyway... have a good one
Thank you for this very well constructed and precise tutorial. It is the most interesting and complete one I could find! 👌That said, I have a big question:
Why pay so much attention to the direction of the sheet fibres? It is true that folding is less easy when it is done across the fibres, but this is anecdotal, isn't it ? You talk about respecting the direction of the grain "to prevent warping": but what warping are you talking about? 😶
Hi. The paper needs to naturally curl towards the spine. If the grain direction is the wrong way, it will try to curl inwards but can't, because of binding, so the corners will curl inwards and the book can warp. This is particularly important if you use wet media.
The bowline will not hold with waxed thread. A weavers knot did not work either. Do you recommend waxed? Or do you use something else?
Thank you so much for this very elaborated tutorial. You kinda made me want to get into bookbinding now. 😊
But for now I just want to make myself a discbound sketchbook, to allow me some flexibility, and what you said about the grain of the paper got me wondering: does the direction of the paper (300 gsm, 100% cotton) still matters for a discbound sketchbook, or a spiral bound sketchbook for that matter? The intended use is mostly for watercolour.
Thanks! 😊🙏 It's best practice to have the paper grain run in line with the spine, regardless of the binding. It's not the end of the world if you don't, but you might find the paper curls up at the corners.
It's so so beautiful, but I am not sure I can make it as perfect as you did. I would like to buy from you if you sell them. Ciao
Hi Janet. Thanks! I do sell them - You can buy them at willjbaileyshop.com 😊
I windered if you could explain how we could add different end papers instead of those that are part of the text block. I bought some beautiful fawn coloured end paper and wanted to use that but am unsure if I need to glue it completely to the cover and first page front and back of the text block, if thar makes sense.
Hi. You can use different paper for the end papers for sure - the process is the same. Glue them on to the text block with a 2cm strip, and then glue the text block to the cover.
Very interesting video👍 Nice!!
Thanks Blanca! 😊
Thanks for the tutorial. I have two questions:
1. Can you explain what is the purpose of the linen tape? Will they raise the end papers and create a bump when painting or sketching on the pages closest to the front or end of the book. Can we leave them out?
2. I used 300 gsm paper and when I put two pages together, as they are so thick, the inner one sticks out by 1 or 2 mm. Should I then trim it down so they are flushed? I am wondering how come you don't seem to have this issue. My book size is 6 in by 9 in.
Thank you.
The sewing only holds the signatures together at the two ends... The glue alone may be enough to join them together along the whole length, but the strips reinforce this connection across the spine and the block is thus more coherent and resistant. If you want to do without the linen strips, I advise you to change your sewing method and to connect each stitch to the stitch of the previous signature (and not to do it only at the 2 ends)
As for the gap between the sheets, it is normal. You have 3 solutions: either accept it as having a certain charm, or get rid of it by recutting the whole block by 2 millimetres, or join the sheets one by one (not 2 by 2)
@@stephanes6660 Thank you that is very helpful!
@@graceng5525 On this tutorial (with light paper), no linen strips are used...
ruclips.net/video/0984uZFc5bw/видео.html
@@graceng5525In addition, I think that using a "french link stitch" may allow to have an enhanced link between the different signatures... ruclips.net/video/MpB1egXKaeM/видео.html
@@stephanes6660 Yes I had also asked Das Bookbinding earlier and he said the same thing. Great minds! Thank you for being so helpful.
Hi Will, I am so excited to try your techniques! I have tried a little bookmaking in the past, but your knowledge and methods are top notch!
I also prefer Fabriano Extra White Hot Pressed paper, and have a 12x18" block I bought on sale. In addition I have it in a smaller size block, but will probably only cut down the 12x18"
I want to make small books for zentangle tiles, preferably about 4" square plus the folding space.
One question: how should I divide my paper for this?
My other question: have you ever added an elastic to your books?
Thanks so much! Karen
Thanks Karen! The most efficient way to do it, without wastage, is to determine the grain direction of the paper then fold it evenly , as per video. If you want to make a square book to a specific size, you’ll need to tear or cut a section of the paper off first, then fold it evenly. Good luck! 😊
I just made a video on how to make an accordion book, showing how to add elastic 👍
Will, I have a question about what you said around 4:55 min. Why would it necessarily take 2.5 sheets of Fabriano paper to make a small landscape book? ( you even mentioned you save half a sheet for a second small book). Isn't the amount of wc paper sheets used solely dependent on how many signatures you want the book to have? You could have 8 signatures (2 entire sheets), or have 12 signatures (3 entire sheets). The 2.5 sheets you said it will take is assuming you want exactly 10 signatures, is that correct? Is 10 signatures a "sweet spot" for you, based on how you use the sketchbook? Do you do on-location sketching and have to carry the book around? I have a store bought Fabriano 5 sketchbook (which is 50% cotton, so a slightly thinner paper, although also 300gsm and 140# and suitable for wet media). This store bought Fabriano 5 book has only 6 signatures which makes it considerably lighter (but obviously has less pages, I think 32 or so). My first book (following your 1st video) had 10 signatures, like yours, and used 5 sheets of Fabriano. That book is quite thick to carry around in my bag. The large 11x11 I am making right now I decided on 8 signatures to cut down the weight, but at the same time have enough pages to last a while without having to make another one! I imagine you can make these as thick as you want, but the thicker they are, the heavier they will be, and the thinner they are the more sketchbooks you will need to make, which has a materials and time cost. Just curious as to why you picked 10 signatures as your go-to thickness. Thanks!!
Hey. Yes I think 40 pages is a sweet spot, but you could happily use 3 sheets and make 48 pages. Also With Saunders Waterford I prefer to make 2 books from 10 sheets so that one book has all-cut bottom edges and the other all torn, otherwise you have a mix of the two.
Thank you for the follow up video. Sharing all your learning in great details has been superbly useful. Ive been wanting to make my own watercolor sketchbook but just don’t have the confidence! Identifying the grain direction is still a fuzzy idea 🤦🏻♀️ I was checking your website and didn’t find many books for sale. Will you be adding more or take orders for specific papers?
Hi, yes I do take custom orders. Ping me an email through the site! 🙂
Thank you!
😊
Good morning 👋
Thank you so much for this great video 👍
I have A4 pages of Arches watercolour cold pressed paper and the grain is very difficult to determine. On the internet I read that all sheets are long grain. How would you fold a A4 sheet which is long grain to make a book ? Thank you so much for your help 🙏 Nathalie
Yes, the 76x56 sheets of Arches paper are long grain. If you start with A4 sheets for your sketchbook, chances are they were cut from A0 and are long grain too. But it is not difficult to determine this by bending the sheet in one direction and then in another. You can easily feel the difference depending on the direction of the fibres: when you bend it across the fibres, the sheet resists the bending more!
@@stephanes6660 Thanks - that's right. Arches, like Saunders Waterford, is long grain.
@@WillJBailey Hi Will, I have a question regarding the grain as well. When you say that Fabriano Artistico is short grain while Arches and Saunders Waterford are long grain, does this apply to their pads, sheets and even rolls of paper? I read somewhere that the grain direction is typically listed last (eg 297 x 210 is short grain) but then that doesn't coincide with how Artistico's sizes are listed (eg 22" x 30"). I also have a roll of Artistico paper that is 1.4x10m and I'm assuming the grain is along the long side since it's rolled that way?
Great video thank you🇨🇦
😊
I enjoyed both of your videos on making these books. I do have a question, though. Where can I source the same materials you are using but in the United States? Thanks so much.
Thanks Mindy! 🙏Sorry I’m afraid I’m not sure about US suppliers. This came up on Google if it’s any help dasbookbinding.com/2020/03/27/bookbinding-suppliers/ 😊
You can use Hollanders or Talas in the U.S.
If you’re concerned about glue drying out too fast, you can use paste or mix of glue and paste
Thanks! I don't find my glue dries out too fast tbh. The M289 I use from J Hewit is excellent specialist bookbinding PVA.
Thank you so much forcthese two outstanding videos. I was taking detailed notes! You have an eye for detail, a clear advantage as a bookbinder. Your second video builds up and enhances the excellent tips of the first one. I especially appreciTed the measurements, folding and cutting options for the different types of paper, according to tbeir long or short grain properties. You just got a new subscriber! Thanks so kuch, Will!
Terrific Content!
🙏😊
I have cut all the paper for a large sketch book and I see from this video that I misunderstood and have gotten it backwards. The SG of the paper is with the fold. What can I expect to happen to this book? Should I cut the book board in a different direction. And please help me understand this better. I guess I need you to hold the paper and the spine to show me the grain and what parallel visually becomes. Thank you for this tutorial. I love doing this and made one small book but it is the wrong direction also.
Hi Neta. Did you watch the first video? That explains how to work out the grain direction etc. If you've got it the wrong way round it's not the end of the world, you'll probably find the corners start to curl up.
@@WillJBailey ok , thanks. I watched the first video but I can get a little dyslexic. I will have someone watch it with me. Love your videos
@@netacourcey138 Ah, thanks Neta 🙏😊 I think of it like a sushi rolling matt - sticks joined together by string, which will bend easily in one direction, due to the gaps between the sticks, and more difficult in the other, because of the strength of the sticks. The grain direction runs along the sticks. When you bend the paper and you can feel it resisting, you are 'bending the sticks', and these need to run from the bottom of the book to the top of the book. If you take a softback book and try and bend it holding the bottom and top, it's very difficult because of the spine. But holding the sides it's very easy - the pages naturally curl. This is what you're after - for the pages to naturally curl as you open it. Hope that makes sense!
@@WillJBailey Yes!!
I use a paper/bookbinder's knife to cut down the paper instead of a folder.
Cool, yeah that would work. Probably a bit quicker. I like the deckled edge the folder gives you though.
@@WillJBailey 👍🏻
do you have written instructions to follow?
I don't, I'm sorry.
Don't you need stretch paper?
No you don't 👍😊