You would not have to ream if you used a threaded rod, locknut and locktite for good measure. Drill the holes dead centre in the channel, insert and fix the studs. Make up a template of the top of the box with some cardboard or styrofoam and press up onto the studs to get the indent location. Take the template and use it to drill your holes through the top of the box (dont forget to mark the template something like back and front to match how the toolbox is facing).
Hi Greg, thanks for the comment, that was something I considered but ultimately doesn’t work. With the loctite on what will be the top nut the rod spins when it’s tightened up to full tension lifting the bottom nut with it. The bolt arrangement really can’t spin at all once it hits its limit. Noting the method seen here was the instruction from the manufacturer and I looked for a simpler alternative but ultimately it is the best way and aside from welding is relatively corrugation proof
Cheers mate, just about to fit boxes to the BT50 .. Thanks to your excellent instructional video I now go forth with confidence ! You’re a natural presenter, love ya work ! 👍
Hi Stephen, I think I know the type of bracket you mean but it’s hard to say without seeing it, based on what I think you have here’s what I would do: 1. Remove bracket and install tool box 2. Drill a hole into the tool box that lines up with hole in mudguard ( you may need to remove the wheel for access 3. Using a suitable length bolt with a nut on the tool box side of mudguard then on both sides when it enters the toolbox (also use washers) Let me know if that makes sense?
thanks yes that makes sense. the other possibility that I will check is whether I can move the steel bracket over to the inside edge of the mudguard. It wont be as solid but the brackets are quite heavy steel. Without putting a tape measure on it yet, it looks like there might be enough room on the outside of the bracket for the box. In some ways I am reluctant to connect the mudguard to the box because if I get the mudguard caught up somehow off road, and it is connected to box there is no 'give' except damage to the box. are those serrated edge nuts likely to get loose with offroad activity, I wonder? thanks so much for the reply. After watching the video again, I'm thinking that a cardboard template might be good way to mark out the holes both on the c-sectins and also on the box, to have them all line up. I also saw some other bolts the other day, called hammer heads that would not spin when tightened because they would turn against the strut. But not sure if they could mess up getting the bolt into the top of the hole due to reduced clearance.
Hi Stephen I understand the concern, some manufacturers do attach the mudguard directly to the toolbox, they could bend for sure - I guess it depends on how much extreme off road work you do. My car has gone about 6000k now and the bolts are still good. I pumped a heap of silicone up there too which somewhat acts as a glue and vibration reduction but with corrugations you could never rule out a bolt coming loose, these seem to be handling what I’ve done so far just fine. I’m not familiar with the hammerheads but sounds like it could be an option too! Let me know how you go 👍
This is solid knowledge mate. I'm about to attempt to install two myself on my ute tray and that 3mm flatbar acting as the washer seems like a good idea, especially with the silicone. I'm gonna use the sika seal 227 automotive one for mine, which I believe will be good.
This is super helpful - best explanation I've seen of how to fit an under tray box. I read somewhere that bare steel (including stainless) will react with aluminium (galvanic corrosion), and that you need some sort of rubber or plastic washer to put between the steel and aluminium surfaces. Have you looked into this? Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks Peter, yeah either option has pros and cons, zinc will eventually rust but stainless will cause corrosion, you are correct separation is the key but wasn’t possible in this case. Galvanic corrosion here will be out of sight and not too bad, kinda the lesser of two evils 😊
I don't understand why you needed to jack the bolt all way up to the tray, you could have just had one nut on either side without the end jacked up against the tray. But otherwise great video
Thanks Petrus, once the box is in place I can’t get a spanner to the head end due to the restricted access. With the bolt pushed into the tray there is no way it can spin when I tighten the nut - I hope that explains it, cheers
@@Oceanic_Adventures just had go installing some yesterday, first box was a nightmare, second 1 went in no problem, love to send you some photo's of how I did it be good if RUclips allowed photos in comments - great video anyway. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@petrus19881cheers, send me the pics to my instagram if you like, glad to hear it sounds like a successful installation instagram.com/oceanic_adventureswa?igsh=MWJxdHRsb2UwN2t4Zw%3D%3D&
Oh my wow ivd got two of these boxes on my ute and I just used self tapping screws straight up from Inside the tool box onto them rails under the tray 1-2 mins was done stuff this way is rubbish 🤣🤣
Screws will work short term if you don’t put much weight in them and stay on the bitumen. I do far too many corrugations for that to be an option for me. Also note this is the OEM instruction
You would not have to ream if you used a threaded rod, locknut and locktite for good measure. Drill the holes dead centre in the channel, insert and fix the studs. Make up a template of the top of the box with some cardboard or styrofoam and press up onto the studs to get the indent location. Take the template and use it to drill your holes through the top of the box (dont forget to mark the template something like back and front to match how the toolbox is facing).
Hi Greg, thanks for the comment, that was something I considered but ultimately doesn’t work. With the loctite on what will be the top nut the rod spins when it’s tightened up to full tension lifting the bottom nut with it. The bolt arrangement really can’t spin at all once it hits its limit.
Noting the method seen here was the instruction from the manufacturer and I looked for a simpler alternative but ultimately it is the best way and aside from welding is relatively corrugation proof
Agreed, threaded rod is the best way.
Cheers mate, just about to fit boxes to the BT50 .. Thanks to your excellent instructional video I now go forth with confidence !
You’re a natural presenter, love ya work ! 👍
Thanks so much Andy for your kind words!
Glad to hear this was helpful and good luck with the BT50
My vehicle has a bracket holding the mudgard in place. Any idea how to deal with that please? thanks for a useful video!
Hi Stephen, I think I know the type of bracket you mean but it’s hard to say without seeing it, based on what I think you have here’s what I would do:
1. Remove bracket and install tool box
2. Drill a hole into the tool box that lines up with hole in mudguard ( you may need to remove the wheel for access
3. Using a suitable length bolt with a nut on the tool box side of mudguard then on both sides when it enters the toolbox (also use washers)
Let me know if that makes sense?
thanks yes that makes sense. the other possibility that I will check is whether I can move the steel bracket over to the inside edge of the mudguard. It wont be as solid but the brackets are quite heavy steel. Without putting a tape measure on it yet, it looks like there might be enough room on the outside of the bracket for the box. In some ways I am reluctant to connect the mudguard to the box because if I get the mudguard caught up somehow off road, and it is connected to box there is no 'give' except damage to the box. are those serrated edge nuts likely to get loose with offroad activity, I wonder? thanks so much for the reply. After watching the video again, I'm thinking that a cardboard template might be good way to mark out the holes both on the c-sectins and also on the box, to have them all line up. I also saw some other bolts the other day, called hammer heads that would not spin when tightened because they would turn against the strut. But not sure if they could mess up getting the bolt into the top of the hole due to reduced clearance.
Hi Stephen I understand the concern, some manufacturers do attach the mudguard directly to the toolbox, they could bend for sure - I guess it depends on how much extreme off road work you do.
My car has gone about 6000k now and the bolts are still good. I pumped a heap of silicone up there too which somewhat acts as a glue and vibration reduction but with corrugations you could never rule out a bolt coming loose, these seem to be handling what I’ve done so far just fine.
I’m not familiar with the hammerheads but sounds like it could be an option too! Let me know how you go 👍
This is solid knowledge mate. I'm about to attempt to install two myself on my ute tray and that 3mm flatbar acting as the washer seems like a good idea, especially with the silicone. I'm gonna use the sika seal 227 automotive one for mine, which I believe will be good.
Thanks Peter, glad it helped 👍
Thanks, very handy video. Will be doing the same so hopefully works for me too!
Thanks Linda, glad it helped and good luck with the installation
Good Job Justin
This is super helpful - best explanation I've seen of how to fit an under tray box. I read somewhere that bare steel (including stainless) will react with aluminium (galvanic corrosion), and that you need some sort of rubber or plastic washer to put between the steel and aluminium surfaces. Have you looked into this? Thanks again for the great video.
Thanks Peter, yeah either option has pros and cons, zinc will eventually rust but stainless will cause corrosion, you are correct separation is the key but wasn’t possible in this case. Galvanic corrosion here will be out of sight and not too bad, kinda the lesser of two evils 😊
Great job thanks
Glad to hear this was helpful Hendo 👍
I don't understand why you needed to jack the bolt all way up to the tray, you could have just had one nut on either side without the end jacked up against the tray. But otherwise great video
Thanks Petrus, once the box is in place I can’t get a spanner to the head end due to the restricted access. With the bolt pushed into the tray there is no way it can spin when I tighten the nut - I hope that explains it, cheers
@@Oceanic_Adventures just had go installing some yesterday, first box was a nightmare, second 1 went in no problem, love to send you some photo's of how I did it be good if RUclips allowed photos in comments - great video anyway.
👍🏻👍🏻
@@petrus19881cheers, send me the pics to my instagram if you like, glad to hear it sounds like a successful installation
instagram.com/oceanic_adventureswa?igsh=MWJxdHRsb2UwN2t4Zw%3D%3D&
Oh my wow ivd got two of these boxes on my ute and I just used self tapping screws straight up from Inside the tool box onto them rails under the tray 1-2 mins was done stuff this way is rubbish 🤣🤣
Screws will work short term if you don’t put much weight in them and stay on the bitumen. I do far too many corrugations for that to be an option for me. Also note this is the OEM instruction