I hate going into my attic. The previous owner sealed up an attic fan that I wish I had. I would like to spray insulation up there, but have been holding back till I investigate the fan and get a bit more electrical ran.
Great job. One comment is any time one is using a knockout in a metal electrical box, you must use a strain relief. Whether snap in plastic gripper type, or the metal NMC clamps with two screws… wire should not be against such stamped metal edges. Excellent project overall, and the chafing is really only an issue if the boxes get moved around, or tugged on. (Like when one is fishing around in an attic, with a wire hook. 😂
Haha. I actually came here to check out your other video of the fan you did install previously, because my daughter needs one for her condo bedroom, so I could get the model., because I need one light weight since its just a light fixture, and have no access to above. Guess back to the drawing board. As well, I have done what you did here in 2 bedrooms of our house that had the same issue of one light on the fan. Makes a world of difference, and the wafer LED like this make it so much easier with no more "cans" Mine were in the basement, so no attic access. For one room had to cut the drywall on the wall above the switch, so we could drill and feed the wire down.
The one from my other video would not be a *terrible* choice for a condo with limited install options. My biggest complaint about it was that it was just too noisy, and I found it distracting while working during the day. Basement installs can be considerably trickier - especially if the floor joists run perpendicular to the direction you need to pull wires. Ugh. Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY We found a fan at Costco that is only 10.2 lbs installed. An Artika Edwin, same sort of set up. I dont think I can find a much lighter fan. Time will tell this weekend when I take the light off and see whats up there.
The Romex wires are meant to follow your drill bit and not be taped to the side of it. That's why there is a hole at the end of the bit. You take a single wire and hook it though the hole then tape in place.
You really needed to put conduit fittings in each of the light boxes to protect the casings of the wires from any type of possible damage. (ie, a cut in the casing leading to a possible short and fire!)
The non-contact voltage tester beeps when near what appears to be the neutral wires. That should never be the case. I would investigate further. You measured potential (voltage, not current) across the switch contacts. Was the switch open? Was the load (old fan) still connected? Hard to tell, but did you use the AC scale versus DC? How do you know you made contact with the wires inside the wire nuts? I would have measured from each switch connection individually to ground (ground and neutral are bounded together at the main electrical panel of the house). I would also turn the breaker on and repeat your testing to verify your technique is correct. No bushing/grommet to protect the cable? Aren't the edges of the holes of the junction box sharp? Really appreciate your technique to keep the attic insulation in the attic.
Hi Art - thanks for your insights. I didn't show it all on camera, but off camera I did a really thorough test of that switch and the circuit... I was using AC detection, and I made sure that the probes were making contact in the wire nuts between load and neutral, neutral and ground, and load and ground. It always measured exactly 0... yet the non-contact tester still went off when I probed anywhere near the wiring. Faulty non-contact tester? 🤔 At any rate, I was certain that the breaker was off to that circuit, and that the entire circuit was dead before I disconnected anything. Next time I'll be more thorough in showing the exact testing I actually did with my meter before disconnecting any of the wiring. I appreciate you chiming in - and thanks for watching!
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You should have your own show on PBS. You are a natural in front of the camera and with voiceover. Plus, perfectly accessible and educational.
I hate going into my attic. The previous owner sealed up an attic fan that I wish I had. I would like to spray insulation up there, but have been holding back till I investigate the fan and get a bit more electrical ran.
Great job. One comment is any time one is using a knockout in a metal electrical box, you must use a strain relief. Whether snap in plastic gripper type, or the metal NMC clamps with two screws… wire should not be against such stamped metal edges.
Excellent project overall, and the chafing is really only an issue if the boxes get moved around, or tugged on. (Like when one is fishing around in an attic, with a wire hook. 😂
Great tip. I'll be sure to use strain relief in the future. Thank you!
Haha. I actually came here to check out your other video of the fan you did install previously, because my daughter needs one for her condo bedroom, so I could get the model., because I need one light weight since its just a light fixture, and have no access to above. Guess back to the drawing board. As well, I have done what you did here in 2 bedrooms of our house that had the same issue of one light on the fan. Makes a world of difference, and the wafer LED like this make it so much easier with no more "cans" Mine were in the basement, so no attic access. For one room had to cut the drywall on the wall above the switch, so we could drill and feed the wire down.
The one from my other video would not be a *terrible* choice for a condo with limited install options. My biggest complaint about it was that it was just too noisy, and I found it distracting while working during the day.
Basement installs can be considerably trickier - especially if the floor joists run perpendicular to the direction you need to pull wires. Ugh.
Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY We found a fan at Costco that is only 10.2 lbs installed. An Artika Edwin, same sort of set up. I dont think I can find a much lighter fan. Time will tell this weekend when I take the light off and see whats up there.
You should have a show!
Heh. Thanks!
The Romex wires are meant to follow your drill bit and not be taped to the side of it. That's why there is a hole at the end of the bit. You take a single wire and hook it though the hole then tape in place.
Thank you very much for the tip! I love learning from viewers like you. :)
You really needed to put conduit fittings in each of the light boxes to protect the casings of the wires from any type of possible damage. (ie, a cut in the casing leading to a possible short and fire!)
This is a great safety tip, and one I overlooked. Thank you!
@@AmplifyDIY 👍👍
The non-contact voltage tester beeps when near what appears to be the neutral wires. That should never be the case. I would investigate further.
You measured potential (voltage, not current) across the switch contacts. Was the switch open? Was the load (old fan) still connected? Hard to tell, but did you use the AC scale versus DC? How do you know you made contact with the wires inside the wire nuts? I would have measured from each switch connection individually to ground (ground and neutral are bounded together at the main electrical panel of the house). I would also turn the breaker on and repeat your testing to verify your technique is correct.
No bushing/grommet to protect the cable? Aren't the edges of the holes of the junction box sharp?
Really appreciate your technique to keep the attic insulation in the attic.
Hi Art - thanks for your insights. I didn't show it all on camera, but off camera I did a really thorough test of that switch and the circuit... I was using AC detection, and I made sure that the probes were making contact in the wire nuts between load and neutral, neutral and ground, and load and ground. It always measured exactly 0... yet the non-contact tester still went off when I probed anywhere near the wiring. Faulty non-contact tester? 🤔
At any rate, I was certain that the breaker was off to that circuit, and that the entire circuit was dead before I disconnected anything. Next time I'll be more thorough in showing the exact testing I actually did with my meter before disconnecting any of the wiring.
I appreciate you chiming in - and thanks for watching!
This turned into a bit bigger project than I intended, but wound up to be full of lots of great tips and tricks for a project like this. Enjoy!