Building the 23' V-Bottom Skiff - Episode 13: First layer of fiberglass
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- Опубликовано: 28 мар 2021
- It's time to fiberglass! This is a a very important step in the construction of our V-Bottom skiff. The boat is a wooden boat at heart but the bottom will be a composite construction utilizing fiberglass for strength and rigidity. In this episode Lou shows up his method for prepping the surface and then applying the fiberglass to the hull. We're using TotalBoat 2:1 High Performance Epoxy and thinning a little bit with alcohol so it will soak into the first later of wooden bottom planking.
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When I apprenticed as a Tool and Die machinist I was lucky enough to have a master machinist who had similar skills in that trade a s you do in boat building. I truly wish that I could go back about 45 years and learn boat building from you as well. A good teacher is one that knows the subject, is willing to share that knowledge and has the ability to keep the student engaged. You are that person.
Dad, these comments are amazing and make me realize how incredibly talented you are. Wow!
Cant wait to see u in a bikini on board this Vessell???
This has got to be one of the strongest boats ever built! Genius use of materials for this build.
I’ve been building boats for over 30 years and I never get tired of watching Lou. Amazing work sir.
I dread to think what you've been producing if this is your reaction.
Fantastic camera work and editing! I'm sure I've made this comment before but its worth saying again. It absolutely serves Lou and his magic to the degree he deserves. Great job.
I’ve been watching this wise old man for years now and to this day every episode nearly blows my mind... Brilliant.., as always...!
PS can’t even remember how many episodes I’ve watched over and over.., feel like this will be one of them ;)) thank you Lou...!
Well said! I wish more people knew about Lou - I've learnt a lot from watching this channel.
When the guru of wooden boat building introduces fiberglass to the scenario, 🤯🤯
Amazing construction Lou! Thanks for the content. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
He used glass and carbon fiber in the last skiff build too....
Although we are a fiberglass company ,i must to say "You just did a remarkable job!"
The fiberglass mat is necessary when using polyester resin because 2 fiberglass fabric layered on top of one another tend to split over time. Polyester resin isn't strong enough. It's not as necessary when using epoxy resin. But you can still take advantage of the mat side by using it as a finish layer. Fiberglass mat can be sanded whereas fabric can't. Sanding fabric essentially cuts the fibers so it looses a lot of it strenght. Instead of having a continuous weave, you end up with a series of U's about an 1/8 long. Thanks for the video series by the way.
Utter rubbish!
I revel in your knowledge. Speaking as a design engineer for half a century, I see every day of your experience showing in your art. Delightful.
There was a saying in my apprentice days -' .. if you can't make it right, make it bright ..' With Lou its, ' .. make it right and bright!' His love of excellence and mastery of form combine effortlessly - then he tells us how he did it! 😎👏👏
It's been awhile since I've watched one of your videos and boy do I miss it. Love the commentary. Thank you.
One of only 3 channels that I don't immediately set the playback to 1.5X or 2X
like Lou said in one episode: it does not hurt you at all to go slow :)
Every one of your videos is a real treat for me. Thank you so much!
Gather round, the master shipwright is speaking :)
Lou, your passion for building quality boats is truly inspirational to watch. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skill with us.
What a build! Amazing work, Lou.
Thank you Lou for another amazing video showing your techniques and tips. That is going to be one strong bottom on that boat. Take care.
Thanks Lou for taking me to school. I'm building a Marsh skif for Texas coast skinny. Your explanation of why helps emencely .the great folks at total boat got me my order quickly.
What a nice monday surprise!
Mr Lou, you such an inspirational and knowledgeable person. Thank you for sharing!
I think its lookin great Lou, and I love your enthusiasm its so infectious.
You have stirred up some concerns with some fibreglass geeks over you methods. It certainly makes it interesting.
Always a pleasure watching a master craftsman work. Thanks for the education!
What a design it’s going to be a ice breaker of a hull please Louis any update on The Orca build I can’t wait for it I have been a fan of that boat from a child 👍🏻 all the best from Ireland 🇮🇪 keep safe 😷
Been watching your channel since the beginning and always enjoy your work. Thank you!
I look forward to each episode; so inspiring.
Thank you so much for sharing your skills. You sharing this will keep the wood working alive.
engineering at its finest.. simply put, brilliant. Lou you just blow my mind some days.
Thanks for the content, Lou! You're part of what makes RUclips great, man
Besides everything else I liked in this video, I'm especially glad to see the care and attention to dust control, which is important for your health.
That boat is SO strong 💪 WOW Lou!
Very nice! I didn't fully appreciate just how much the sole contributes to the strength of the hull until I saw it in cross-section like this.
Thanks Lou, love the build!
That Sample truss you showed us is an incredible demonstration !!!
During the winters in Petersburg, Alaska my 36’ Whal built troller gillnetter was under a 6 mil visquine self made “boat house”. The winter of ‘74 I insulated and fiberglassed the fish hold. I used mat. The resin then off gassed a vapor, “styrene” as I recall. I found a fellow with a gas mask, ran a flexible tube from the gas canister up through the hatch combing out the boat house door till the end was well outside.
Fiberglassing inside the fish hold by yourself, vertical concave walls, getting the right amount of liquid hardener (it came it squeeze bottles - it really was a guess) in the resin, the mat to stay and not clump, the resin to penetrate, the offensive odor of the resin, the fact that too much hardener would(or could) cause the resin to catch fire or not harden to a proper “hard” was a (looking back on it) almost daily nightmare.
I was 22 years old.
I watched your latest skiff video, no gas mask and thought, “My god, how far we have come”.
I always enjoy your expertise and hearing nautical terms, vessel lingo again. 👍🤜🤛
Very nice work Lou. Always nice to log on and see new videos. Can't wait till it's flipped over 👌
I am SO enjoying all you are doing here. As far as the scatter pattern of the fibreglass, my understanding is that, because the long fibres run in all directions, it make the topside layer much much harder to distort. Any direction you pull it in, it will not want to shift.
Great Job as always!
Love what ya do Lou!
That's where I'm at now on my skiff build. I'm putting two layers on the outer hull and I plan to let the first layer dry before laying down the second layer, just to make my life a little easier since I don't have anyone to help. Good tip about the scraper!
what beautiful lines.
Lou always amazing even when I used to work in his shop
Love it. Keep up the good work!
All i can say is.... W O W ! that’s incredible skills...
Stay safe & God Bless
Love it!! Great to see it coming together :-)
I grow more and more in love with that beautiful boat with every episode. If I was rich I’d own it.
The knowledge just keeps coming! Thanks brother!! New sub!
Nice to see a master work...
always the best!!! over the years the ammount I have learned from this dude is un fathomable!!
It's truly frightening to read these comments, it shows how much ignorance about boat building there is out there.
Hey Lou grab a 16th x 16th floor trowel from home center flooring section, sand the notches edge down to what maybe a 32nd? (Make the notches shorter) Put the right amount of resin right where you need it, great video thanks
source-flooring guy
Thank you. Great tube!
Fantastic instruction
Great video
You can think of the fiberglass cloth like plywood... woven cloth is like veneered plywood where the layers of grain criss-cross at two specific angles, and multi-directional cloth (aka mat) is like OSB with the grain crossing at multiple random angles. This 1708 cloth is the best of both, with specifically angled fibers to make edges like at the transom stronger, and flat areas stronger in every direction through the random orientation of the matted layer.
I asked last week, who's the new kid?
My understanding is that the matt side is better to put "face up" on your last layer and provides a "smoother" finish to sand for paint. Planning to build my own "barge" type boat and this is some good info, as all your videos. Thanks for sharing.
Excelente trabalho magnífico
She is coming right along, Fiberglassing large flat surfaces can actually be fun as you spread the resin and see the wood grain pop. Now sanding fiberglass is a max pain in the butt. You MUST wear a mask and goggles and that stuff itches bigtime. Looking forward to seeing the next layer of planking go on.
Good video Sir...she's going to be awesome
Sanding fiberglass is the seventh level of hell.
I believe this has to be the first video where Louie didn't say "Medullary Ridge"?! He did say "Bi-axial Weave" and "Mono-directional Fiber" so I'm satisfied 😊.
Medulary rays ?
The 1708 with the 3/4 oz matt is primarily used when polyester resins are used in the laminate and it DOES promote adhesion to a scuffed and hot coated wood surface. It also takes a step in cutting material out of the production process.
Your using an epoxy would call for a 1708 less the Matt backing. This version is specifically for use with epoxy as the binder in the matt isn't really compatible with epoxy. It also behaves dry and wet like a regular straight cloth- it takes a touch and some experience in pulling and squeegee driving. Epoxy with matt is just wasting resin and adding weight that doesn't add an equivalent strength.
You do what you do, you're convinced of your process but now you and your followers know.
You say the version he is using is specifically for use with epoxy as a binder in the mat but that it isn't compatible with epoxy?
@@jeremiah1059 If epoxy resin is used, there's no need for matt.
The binder chemicals used to keep matt together until the resin saturates it are rarely if ever compatible with epoxy, so the Matt just sucks up resin and adds weight. The 1708 WITH a light matt backing is usually for use with polyester resins that WILL break down the binder and contribute to the bond.
@@highlinercustomboats1816 okay. So is he doing it wrong in your opinion or just adding an unnecessary step/unnecessary weight?
I build small catamaran sailing ply'wd. hulls (20'x9') and STOP at this fine builder's glass/epoxy step! seems to work for FL waters. so far :-) but...mannnnn...that above is sho one hard-workin' hull, being its double-planked! whewwww....heavy, I'll bet, too. most have heavy waves there??
Real awesome
What a hype for that truss =D
Your video's are a balsem to my soul for years now. So please carry on. It crossed my mind if you considered using carbon fibre in stead of the crosswoven glasfibre. Carbon fibre has an inherent more resistance to deformation then glassfibre.
Buy your helper a pair of safety glasses.
That would be SO very sad to get a blob of resin in the poor kid’s eyes !
Back in the ‘80s, I splashed a drop in my face and was SO very glad it hit my GLASSES, rather than my eyes.
Just FYI
Thanks, Ted, in NJ
I think it’s is to simplify the process having the biaxial cloth and the mat combined. Instead of two steps. Also that thin layer of mat should help wet out the cloth. Could also help laying the mat down and reducing air bubbles if you’re squeeing out the cloth. I’m also thinking having thin mat layer gives better adhesion to the wood.
Who says they don't make em like they used to. In this case, even better!!
Fiberglass 101
By Lou
Lou makes fiberglass easy.
Test at the end
Lou is so engaging in this video, and the boat is so beautiful, that one is very hesitant to say anything negative. Beginners are however likely to take to heart what is said here, and for that reason I feel it would do such people a disservice if they were not advised to do further research before taking on a job of this nature. I believe that many of the methods used here are not in line with the recommendations of most composite materials manufacturers, and beginners are advised to study such documentation in detail before taking the plunge. Aspects that give rise to concern include: thinning epoxy resins, the use of water to smooth a wet lay-up, the lack of overlaps between sheets of laid-up fiberglass, the unusual "composite" wood/fiberglass/wood/fiberglass laminations to be employed, and possibly the use of a fiber reinforcing fabric that may not be compatible with epoxy resins.
Agreed and noted
Oh diese Bedenkenträger, DIN-Normen- Liebhaber und Anweisungs-Befolger.
Geh' ma davon aus, das Lou das nicht das erste Mal macht und schon seine Erfahrung hat.
Nicht jede Anleitung hat das Ziel, das man es richtig machen soll, sondern auch, dass man z.B. seinen eigenen teuren Verdünner verkauft
the golden hand
I learned about 15 things!
As I understand it, the mat on the back side is to add strength. With the fibers going in every direction randomly, there's there is consistent stiffness in all directions, not just the directions of the biaxial weave. It's great stuff that allows you to skip steps basically.
Charles, I use cloth that wets out perfectly, as it is matched (...is coated with a coupling agent) to the resin system. And that cloth is regular weave. It works well. You cannot chop-strand that lay over method for multi-directional strength (which you don't actually get from plywood either), and it'd look like an interior finish, taking forever to fine down. An answer on a larger boat is multiple layers of thinner cloth. Time consuming as hell. The surf board guys who work in epoxy have shown me the best techniques, and they have keen graphics to show through for their clients. But scaling it up for the big boat, well, that's a skill. I think Lou might benefit from the waft of a heat gun here and there, just as it get a bit uncompliant, but way-to-go.
You ever ues peel ply? When applied carefully it leaves a very smooth surface for the next operationwether it's more glass/carbonfiber, wood, paint, gelcoat, or whatever the next layer is. It also removes the amine blush in resins. no sanding or scraping needed unless the surface is not absoultly fair for the next layer. Biggest problem is it's expensive and it's garbage after use.
Sir have you work with Carbon/Kevlar fiber? Like to ask a Question
@@gregoryh4601 What do you want built or repaired
@@gregoryh4601 It's pretty obvious by my comment that I'm either a liar, armchair quarterback, or someone with expirence if fabrication/repair materials, in this case composits. You decide, I will contimnue to do what i do and make a ton of money doing it.
Great job! What did you use to thin out the epoxy? I never thought of spraying water onto it when it was going off. I’m gonna try that! Cheers mate! Thanks for the video! Subscribed!
My understanding is that the mat side is there to keep the cloth texture from printing through to the surface.
Have you tried using a rubber roller to set the resin and glass?
The use of the paper to keep clean lines is genius. Why didn't I think of that?
Its wonderfull. Defenitly. But why does ist have to be a Tank? Do you Go through ice with it?
Louis, been following you for a few years now.
LIKE the channel!
Anyone ever say your voice sounds like George
Carlin?
steve
I was just thinking the same thing!
@5:08 chopped glass mat forms to shapes better. Anyone who has ever tried to apply just a piece of woven mat to any surface that wasn't flat; finds out quick, that no matter how long you chase it with a roller the stiffness of the parallel fibers wants to round over corners which makes voids. This is why you always apply scatter - woven - scatter - woven, it fits shapes, fills the voids in the weave, and allows a denser fiber to resin ratio. Really comes in handy when its time to sand and paint. Just out of curiosity why this blend, of solid wood keel and plank/fiberglass hull? Is it a nostalgia to use some classical methods improved with a composite and have a bullet proof boat that needs a rail car to move, You know as well as I that you can get that same strength but with none of that wood weight. Just curious.
Just to help my learning, why did you not roll out the wet glass with a fin roller? Does that type of roller not work well with the 1708?
matt makes the base the liquid resin/epoxy needs & seats good to the wood without lifting.
How much sanding does a boat of this multitude take?
How much working time do you have with the resin the way you mix it?
Why not use a nap roller when spreading the resin? I also use a nap roller to soak up excess resin on polyester tooling
I hope you are OK Louis! I haven’t seen any late update in all your boat builds and hope you aren’t picking up the dam Corona
The mat side of the 1708 hides the stitching and stops print through of the biaxial pattern when you put gel coat on top of it.
It would make a good icebreaker with that hull build
Right? Damn near torpedo proof!
What would be your estimated dry finished weight of this boat? It's going to be one strong ass boat.
you've got some bubble trapped at the angle (port side next to the blue tape) whtn the cloth lifts before full cure, because the cloth cannot take the sharp turn at the right angle and springs back. One way to avoid that is to trim the cloth so that the angle, an other (which has limitations) is to use the help of a tear veil that would apply extra pressure there (or even better to lay a platic film and apply a weighted batten at the right angle)
yessssssssssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!! man I been fuckin waiting for this!
I’ve been building glass boats for 45 years now ,just wondering why ya don’t put a mat down first so it’ll bond to the wood , 50 years ago my dad used to glass with cloth right over wood , but two or three years later you could rip it right of the marine plywood or even treated kiln dry
Is there a chance that may have been with polyester resins? Epoxy resins are known for being very good at adhesion and gluing..
I cannot get my head around precision building a boat in timber, and then covering it in grp.
Cutting fiberglass, especially with electric scissors, releases fiberglass into the air. Wear respirator when cutting.
and something this shipwright doesn't realize when building that boat with fiberglass and plywood. FIBERGLASS constantly sweats. and with the plywood right against it there's only one place for the sweat to go. RIGHT INTO ALL THAT BEAUTIFUL WOOD WORK...
How do you get the binder in the Matt in you DBM1708 to break down with Epoxy ? That’s never worked for me. I’d be using DB170 ! All the tests I’ve done prove it. Do a bench test and check it . Chop Strand Matt. (CSM) does not like epoxy. That must be some special Glue because only the Esters glues worked for me . Cool boat. I’m a fiberglass boatbuilder from Santa Cruz Ca. with 40yrs of building.
عمل جيد جدا👍
When you're building in a female mold the scrim of mat keeps the weave from printing through the gelcoat when it shrinks.
There is a lot of styrene monomer that evaporates from polyester gelcoat. (It has to be thinned if you're going to spray it.
The mat also _does help_ bonding between layers of cloth.
If you looked at two stacked layers of cloth you would see no matter what orientation there would always be resin pockets where the weave crossed over each other.
Resin has no real strength compared to the fiber.
Bi-axial cloth drapes over corners because like any fabric on the bias, the approach and departure angles are MUCH shallower than if it was at right angles.
Take your bevel set and find the angle when following the weave. (In fact, do it on video so your viewers can see for themselves!)
Sorry sir just want to know which kind of wood did you start with for it looks soft