The 1977 year has a unique set up. 1977 was the first year that Volvo decided to put a lift pump in the tank, this was probably more for safety and fuel theft reasons as the early cars run fine. The 1977 fuel tank no longer has the outlet on the side of the tank, the drain plug or plug which allowed access to the wire mesh filter as this was replaced with a sock on the lift pump. These plugs often crack and leak around the solder joints if the car bottoms out on rough ground. The 1977 tank still has half the filler neck welded to the tank with a joiner in the boot (trunk). Also the 1977 tank still has the smaller access hole for the sender unit which made getting the sender unit, now with lift pump, a bit of a squeeze to get in and correct alignment was not obvious. The main pump was still bolted to the front of the tank which meant the inlet was now facing the wrong way! Hence the awkward U-shaped infeed hose. These issues were fixed for 1978 with the enlarged access hole with obvious orientation tab, main pump moved off the tank to a separate carrier which was also in a better protected location. The 1978 filler neck now joined at the tank preventing any petrol (gas) smells in the car.
That’s right! I think I mentioned most of that in the video too, another issue with the early fuel sender, is in how the measuring unit is soldered on, makes it not possible to upgrade to a longer or more powerful pump without more modification
Hello, it is a pressure accumulator. me personally have never seen that placement of fuel pump here in europe, but i might have missed it. I have always found it mounted underside the car under the rear seat. Also on my 1976 264. That bracket looks very home made to me. Anyway, the fuel pressure accumulator is there to ensure easy start in warm weather, as to avoid gas bubbles(boling) in the fuel system when the engine is too warm for the cold start system to kick in.
Hello brother kjet owner. When fuel pump testing on the early 240 kjet. There is a connector on the airflow sensor plate housing. If you remove that connector and let it hang free. The fuel pump/pumps will run for testing purposes. It's even easier than the jumper wire you made which is also a very good way to test as well. Nice to see your channel. I have subscribed and it was great chatting with you on turbobricks PM.
@@240rescue Right on the side of the largest part of the air flow sensor housing. There should be a single connector at the level of the sensor plate when it is all the way down. That is a ground contact that when the engine isn't running the ground disables the fuel pumps. If you remove that connector then the pumps will run with the key on. This is applicable to the setup that uses two relays for the fuel pump. Hope that made it a bit more clear for you.
You have introduce poor starting under certain conditions , this could then mask another starting issue down the track . Making it harder to diagnose . If the part is available replace it or fit a fuel pressure regulator from a different car with the same specs .Interesting to see that crazy mounting position only ever seen exterior rear seat well mounting . A old volvo is only fun to own if it is kept reliable and running well .
It's only a couple years old and I had it rechecked recently. There's no fuel smell but I think my injectors are leaking pressure from below. We'll see. I won't give up on K-Jet.
Very interesting fix. I'm here cause I own a 1991 w124 300e with the KE jet system, largely the same components with ofcourse some added electrical components. I recently discovered that my accumulator has been deleted, I have 2 pumps and a filter only. This is after 2 years of ownership. During this time, cold starts have been near perfect (after fiddling with the CO screw a bit), warm starts within 30 mins are prompt. However, warm starts after 1 hour go as follows: long cranking, sputters and coughs while starting (but it DOES start on first attempt as compared to your 4 attempts). Such an intricate system this! Question: you mentioned that it kinda loses power in the higher rev ranges. Mine is behaving similarly. 0-60 is 10 secs while this car from factory is rated at 7.8 secs. Did the accumulator delete fix that on yours?
Yes, deleting the leaking accumulator did fix the high rev power/fuel loss, I did discover that the warm start long cranks were exacerbated by a clogging control pressure regulator, once I cleared that out, warm starts were pretty much a 1 crank start, although it was a slightly longer crank as expected
Good question, the kjet models operate on a minimum of 65-70psi of fuel pressure, in fact the fuel injectors are pressure operated valves, and don’t even open under 37psi. What I was experiencing, was a dip in power when accelerating at a high speed, which I assume was related to the fuel leak at the accumulator causing pressure loss and therefore cutting fuel to the engine (lean condition)
Hey Chris, I have an 81 KJET and just did intake manifold gaskets now when I go to turn the car over it tries but I just get one loud poof from the engine bay. Any ideas on where to start? I'm gonna pull the manifold again and see if I forgot something.
@@240rescue boot is solid still, I’m going to double check when I get a chance I’m definitely getting fueling that’s for sure. But it was one of those “7 hours in on doing car work it was just time to be done” days.
I know the feeling, I would triple check the fat boot, it can get caught on the back where you can’t see and can cause a large vacuum leak, also worth checking you didn’t pinch any hoses or wires reinstalling the manifold, lastly check wiring connection to the coil and for spark
That's the problem I am having right now. my 80 242 kjet has never let me down and has been very reliable but on hot starts it takes me like 4-6 times sometimes more and it's getting a lil annoying
This is a great video! Good cheat code if your in a pickle or like you said going EFI. A great upgrade I did was a VW Accumulator out of a 80s Gti/Caddy its much taller and will hold more pressure for longer its also is ventless direct fit. I did this for my Kjet +T. 1977. Eliminated hot start issues and not too expensive. Just a thought for the future. IIRC, PN:431133441C
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These modern K-jet diagnostic videos are insanely helpful, thank you for making these.
Thank you! I’m learning as well!
The 1977 year has a unique set up. 1977 was the first year that Volvo decided to put a lift pump in the tank, this was probably more for safety and fuel theft reasons as the early cars run fine. The 1977 fuel tank no longer has the outlet on the side of the tank, the drain plug or plug which allowed access to the wire mesh filter as this was replaced with a sock on the lift pump. These plugs often crack and leak around the solder joints if the car bottoms out on rough ground. The 1977 tank still has half the filler neck welded to the tank with a joiner in the boot (trunk). Also the 1977 tank still has the smaller access hole for the sender unit which made getting the sender unit, now with lift pump, a bit of a squeeze to get in and correct alignment was not obvious. The main pump was still bolted to the front of the tank which meant the inlet was now facing the wrong way! Hence the awkward U-shaped infeed hose. These issues were fixed for 1978 with the enlarged access hole with obvious orientation tab, main pump moved off the tank to a separate carrier which was also in a better protected location. The 1978 filler neck now joined at the tank preventing any petrol (gas) smells in the car.
That’s right! I think I mentioned most of that in the video too, another issue with the early fuel sender, is in how the measuring unit is soldered on, makes it not possible to upgrade to a longer or more powerful pump without more modification
Hello, it is a pressure accumulator. me personally have never seen that placement of fuel pump here in europe, but i might have missed it. I have always found it mounted underside the car under the rear seat. Also on my 1976 264. That bracket looks very home made to me. Anyway, the fuel pressure accumulator is there to ensure easy start in warm weather, as to avoid gas bubbles(boling) in the fuel system when the engine is too warm for the cold start system to kick in.
That is the stock location for the fuel pump on early models. The chassis doesn’t even have provisions for a floor mounted pump.
Thanks Chris you help a lot 243 1977 Volvo owner
You’re welcome!
👍🏻🏴 Ingenious. ‘Necessity is the mother of invention’.
K-Jet for life!
Kjet for now!
Hello brother kjet owner. When fuel pump testing on the early 240 kjet. There is a connector
on the airflow sensor plate housing. If you remove that connector and let it hang free. The
fuel pump/pumps will run for testing purposes. It's even easier than the jumper wire you
made which is also a very good way to test as well. Nice to see your channel. I have
subscribed and it was great chatting with you on turbobricks PM.
Hey friend! Good chatting and thanks for the tip! Are you referring to that temperature sensor mounted on the body of the air sensor?
@@240rescue Right on the side of the largest part of the air flow
sensor housing. There should be a single connector at the level of the sensor plate when it is all the way down. That is a ground contact that
when the engine isn't running the ground disables the fuel pumps. If you
remove that connector then the pumps will run with the key on. This
is applicable to the setup that uses two relays for the fuel pump. Hope
that made it a bit more clear for you.
Good content as usual!! Always learning something new on your channel
Thanks!
You have introduce poor starting under certain conditions , this could then mask another starting issue down the track . Making it harder to diagnose . If the part is available replace it or fit a fuel pressure regulator from a different car with the same specs .Interesting to see that crazy mounting position only ever seen exterior rear seat well mounting . A old volvo is only fun to own if it is kept reliable and running well .
Thumbs up from France !👍 good work 💪🏼
Thanks!
My 82 240 K-Jet takes 9-12 tries to warm start. I think its my injectors. That's next on my list. Still she's the best daily driver out there.
The fuel pressure accumulator is there to help with warm start
It's only a couple years old and I had it rechecked recently. There's no fuel smell but I think my injectors are leaking pressure from below. We'll see. I won't give up on K-Jet.
Good luck! 🙂👍
Thanks dude. This is why I choose to daily drive these things. I truly live the 240 life! I've had over 20 over the years but she is my 1st K-Jet.
Very interesting fix. I'm here cause I own a 1991 w124 300e with the KE jet system, largely the same components with ofcourse some added electrical components. I recently discovered that my accumulator has been deleted, I have 2 pumps and a filter only. This is after 2 years of ownership. During this time, cold starts have been near perfect (after fiddling with the CO screw a bit), warm starts within 30 mins are prompt. However, warm starts after 1 hour go as follows: long cranking, sputters and coughs while starting (but it DOES start on first attempt as compared to your 4 attempts). Such an intricate system this! Question: you mentioned that it kinda loses power in the higher rev ranges. Mine is behaving similarly. 0-60 is 10 secs while this car from factory is rated at 7.8 secs. Did the accumulator delete fix that on yours?
Yes, deleting the leaking accumulator did fix the high rev power/fuel loss, I did discover that the warm start long cranks were exacerbated by a clogging control pressure regulator, once I cleared that out, warm starts were pretty much a 1 crank start, although it was a slightly longer crank as expected
Hey Chris! Love all the K-Jet content! I guess now you need a new sticker with Nicolas Cage-ET? 🤣
Thanks! I still have some Nicolas cage stuff I need to share lol
@@240rescue I love the one you had on the hatch of the lifted wagon😄
im new to the volvo stuff so may i ask what you mean by having "lean" issues? what is that
Good question, the kjet models operate on a minimum of 65-70psi of fuel pressure, in fact the fuel injectors are pressure operated valves, and don’t even open under 37psi. What I was experiencing, was a dip in power when accelerating at a high speed, which I assume was related to the fuel leak at the accumulator causing pressure loss and therefore cutting fuel to the engine (lean condition)
Thank you for the content love your channel
Wow thank you I appreciate that a lot
Dude I love this channel no joke it rocks thank you
Hey Chris, I have an 81 KJET and just did intake manifold gaskets now when I go to turn the car over it tries but I just get one loud poof from the engine bay. Any ideas on where to start? I'm gonna pull the manifold again and see if I forgot something.
Is it possible that you did not install the big boot on properly or that it is torn and leaking air?
@@240rescue boot is solid still, I’m going to double check when I get a chance I’m definitely getting fueling that’s for sure. But it was one of those “7 hours in on doing car work it was just time to be done” days.
I know the feeling, I would triple check the fat boot, it can get caught on the back where you can’t see and can cause a large vacuum leak, also worth checking you didn’t pinch any hoses or wires reinstalling the manifold, lastly check wiring connection to the coil and for spark
That's the problem I am having right now. my 80 242 kjet has never let me down and has been very reliable but on hot starts it takes me like 4-6 times sometimes more and it's getting a lil annoying
Very easy to inspect them. If it leaks fuel out the vent, then it’s trashed unfortunately
Hey, how can I message or email you directly? I have a 1976 244DL and I have some questions and really REALLY want to talk to you.
Hi the easiest way to reach me is through my Instagram, I would be happy to try to answer your questions
This is a great video! Good cheat code if your in a pickle or like you said going EFI.
A great upgrade I did was a VW Accumulator out of a 80s Gti/Caddy its much taller and will hold more pressure for longer its also is ventless direct fit. I did this for my Kjet +T. 1977. Eliminated hot start issues and not too expensive. Just a thought for the future. IIRC, PN:431133441C
Cheat code! I like that lol. Also thanks for the pn, you’re right it’s probably a good $60 cheaper than the ones listed for Volvo