Dear Andrew, You do a grand job on such a small mill. Thank you for making the videos. The big multi tipped carbide cutter is usually called a Shell Mill. Great for blocking up square stock and a good investment and cheap considering the amount of material they can remove.
I really enjoy your videos. I purchased the farm boy plans from Jerry Howell so I can follow along and do my own version. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Thanks
Thanks Dale - no pressure there then! I think the instructions in the plans are intended for far more experienced model engineers than me, and lack some detail. Please don't hesitate to share your experience, as I think I will need all the help I can get! Good luck and stay safe! Andrew
Andrew. In future the quickest way to remove deep pocket material is with a slot drill ( 2 flute end mill ). Just keep plunging down to depth then move table 1 cutter diameter until done. It is quicker than milling and only wears the cutter end which is easier to sharpen. They call then slot drills as you are in effect just drilling a slot. You will of course have to join up all the holes but the bulk of the material has been removed. You can use a 2, 3 or 4 flute cutter to finish the pocket. Hope this helps. Stay Safe.
Thanks for the info Dave. I have a couple of 2 flute end mills, so I will try them on the Rear Frame - lots of material to remove on that one too. Take care and stay safe! Andrew
Hi Andrew, Thanks for the shoutout. I've been making some of the brass parts for my Kerzel Hit and Miss. Anyway excellent video, the part turned out well. looking for to the next episode. Regards Kevin
Thanks Nigel - I think I must have spent more time thinking about it than milling it! Happy with the result though considering that I've never undertaken anything similar in the past. Take care. Andrew
Good to be wary of climb milling but if you don't have any backlash it is ok to use it. Most rotary tables have the ability to trim out backlash so give it ago. Modern ballscrew machines can run in climb mill, for better finishes, because of the lack of significant backlash.
Hey Chris - thanks for the advice. I now understand a little better. I think my rotary table has quite a bit of backlash, but I will investigate! Cheers Andrew
Great to see you got a Warco bandsaw and that you are happy with it. I don't have any association with Warco, but for the price I'm pretty impressed with it. Saves a lot of graft and a far more accurate cut than with my hacksaw. On further inspection one of my vice jaws is more like a banana, so I will mill it flat when I get some spare time. Still very please with it though. Take care! Andrew
Impressive work, a piece of arts, joggling in the three dimensional world, way to complicated for me. One hole in a 90 degree angle to another one is enough.
Fantastic job mate! Love the way you go about things. What mill do you have there? Looking into getting my first one, my lathe just isn’t enough anymore!
You have produced a very nice looking component from a daunting sized chunk of metal. You didnt show the pile of swarf but it must have been substantial. Very impressed with the finish from the cutter and the band saw. How many hours did you spend on that part?
Thanks Tim. I reckon I must have spent around 20hrs machining it plus 20hrs just thinking about it and setting up! Very pleased with the result though. All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal The time spent thinking about the order of operations was time well spent. With such a complex part, you've got to make sure that you have enough material remaining after each stage of the machining to enable the part to be gripped for the next stage !
Hello Andrew, interesting project. I was/am thinking about a Red Wing. Couple of things that put me off are cost and availability of castings. The Farm Boy may be a good alternative. Be interested to learn where you sourced the bar stock?
Hi Simon. I had originally planned on getting red wing castings from forest classics. A few things changed my mind: cost, availability, concerned my mill would be too small. I also considered the Kerzel but decided on the Farm Boy. The aluminium billet for the front frame came from penninemetals (ebay) about £14. For the rear frame I've purchased stock from myldanautodesignltd (ebay). No issues with either supplier, but check availability due to the coronavirus outbreak. I've subsequently found that the threads on the Farm Boy are mostly UNC. I thought about converting to BA as I've got most taps and dies. However I think I will have to bite the bullet and purchase UNC taps, which will be quite expense. There are loads of components to be machined but it should be challenging and keep me busy for quite a while. Good luck with your decision. If you decide on the farm boy I hope you will share your experiences with me cos I think I will need as much help and advice as possible 😉 All the best. Andrew
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale Thanks Andrew, I think the Farm Boy may be for me. I have just finished the current project which was a Stuart 10H built as a bit of light relief after a Stuart boiler feed pump which was a challenge. I am not as accomplished as you at making videos. Re the threads on the Farm Boy I am sure that you could use BSF or even metric. When I have downloaded the drawings I will look at them and suggest some alternatives, the other option may be ME which are close to some of the US sizes and readily available at low cost. I will let you know what I decide to do. Best regards, Simon
That was a nice piece of machining. I am looking forward to another episode. By the way how is your SX2P mill. Can you give me any feedback. I am planning to buy a mill but cannot decide between SX2 or SX2.7.
Thanks mate! I had originally planned on getting the sx2.7 but when I visited arc I thought it would be too large for the space in my garage. I've made various enhancements the my sx2p, covered in my channel. I would say that the most important are gas strut conversion and scales with TouchDRO. The Dro makes it a totally different experience to use. It is a good little mill but power feed on the z-axis would be nice too. Based on previous experience I would say go as big as you have space for, though the sx2.7 still lacks dro on all three axis's. Now I have more space, I've been considering the SX3.5DZP which ticks all boxes for me. Unfortunately quite expensive and still not available from Arc. I guess the Sieg factory in China has been heavily affected by coronavirus ☹️. Sieg gear seems pretty good and I love the sc4 lathe. So, I would suggest you go as big as possible based on your budget and space. If you go sx2.7 I think you will still spend more cash on a decent dro system. Hope that helps. Cheers Andrew
Thanks for the suggestion Ron. Skethup sounds like a really good idea but I've been trying to learn fusion360 for 3d printing. Trying to learn sketchup would probably result in major brain overload. Too many fantastic things to learn but not enough time! Really appreciate the suggestion though. Take care. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal To be honest, Andrew, I can't get on with Sketchup but it does seem to be the 'go to' for most designer/makers. I prefer my ketchup without the 'S'... it goes better with chips
Thanks Steve - I think hit n miss engines were more common on farms in the USA. They are internal combustion engines with a govenor on them. They fire to get up to speed and then free wheel. When the revs drop, they fire again - hence hit n miss. Facinating to watch. All the best. Andrew
Thank you Andrew. While I haven't conducted an extensive search, I'm guessing it was probably the forerunner of the "throttle controlled" internal combustion engine we know today.
Dear Andrew, You do a grand job on such a small mill. Thank you for making the videos. The big multi tipped carbide cutter is usually called a Shell Mill. Great for blocking up square stock and a good investment and cheap considering the amount of material they can remove.
Simply inspirational 👍😀
Hey - thanks mate!
Cheers
Andrew
I really enjoy your videos. I purchased the farm boy plans from Jerry Howell so I can follow along and do my own version. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Thanks
Thanks Dale - no pressure there then! I think the instructions in the plans are intended for far more experienced model engineers than me, and lack some detail. Please don't hesitate to share your experience, as I think I will need all the help I can get!
Good luck and stay safe!
Andrew
Andrew. In future the quickest way to remove deep pocket material is with a slot drill ( 2 flute end mill ). Just keep plunging down to depth then move table 1 cutter diameter until done. It is quicker than milling and only wears the cutter end which is easier to sharpen. They call then slot drills as you are in effect just drilling a slot. You will of course have to join up all the holes but the bulk of the material has been removed. You can use a 2, 3 or 4 flute cutter to finish the pocket. Hope this helps. Stay Safe.
Thanks for the info Dave. I have a couple of 2 flute end mills, so I will try them on the Rear Frame - lots of material to remove on that one too.
Take care and stay safe!
Andrew
Well done, I'm looking forward for the videos to come.
Cheers Michael!
Nice work Andrew. That is a complex piece and you nailed it.
Thanks Robert. I think I must have spent more time thinking about it than milling it. I'm pretty happy with the result though.
All the best.
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the shoutout. I've been making some of the brass parts for my Kerzel Hit and Miss.
Anyway excellent video, the part turned out well. looking for to the next episode.
Regards Kevin
No worries Kevin, I'm sure some of my subscribers will find your channel very interesting. Can't wait to see your Kerzel completed.
Stay safe!
Andrew
Blimey Andrew, genius lot of work, well done you !! Looking forward to seeing the finished engine, Stay well mate , Best wishes Mike
Thanks Mike. You stay safe too!
All the best.
Andrew
Very impressed at the quality of the finish. Look out Mr Crispin! 😀
Ha ha - thanks John!
Excellent work Andrew, you should take pride in that.
I really enjoyed watching that video many thanks and keep them coming
That is coming along very nicely! Job well done.
Stay well!
Cheers from Canada
Thanks mate - you stay safe too!
All the best.
Andrew
Kudos Andrew! Stay healthy.
Cheers Craig - you stay safe too!
Thanks for the video Andrew. Keep safe and well.
Thanks Colin - you stay safe too!
Hi Andrew, very Good job i think
Lots of measuring to do and working out
Thanks Nigel - I think I must have spent more time thinking about it than milling it! Happy with the result though considering that I've never undertaken anything similar in the past.
Take care.
Andrew
Hi Andrew. Concave cut is possibly caused by Bandsaw Guides being to far away from the stock. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the advice Jerzy - I will bear that in mind in future.
All the best.
Andrew
Good to be wary of climb milling but if you don't have any backlash it is ok to use it. Most rotary tables have the ability to trim out backlash so give it ago. Modern ballscrew machines can run in climb mill, for better finishes, because of the lack of significant backlash.
Hey Chris - thanks for the advice. I now understand a little better. I think my rotary table has quite a bit of backlash, but I will investigate!
Cheers
Andrew
Great results!!! Intresting way.....
Stay healthy!!!
Thanks mate. I'm not sure whether the methods I used were pukka, but I'm pretty happy with the result.
Stay safe!
Andrew
Nice job Andrew , well done ! Btw your last video prompted me to buy the Warco handsaw which was delivered yesterday....... I am very happy with it !!
Great to see you got a Warco bandsaw and that you are happy with it. I don't have any association with Warco, but for the price I'm pretty impressed with it. Saves a lot of graft and a far more accurate cut than with my hacksaw. On further inspection one of my vice jaws is more like a banana, so I will mill it flat when I get some spare time. Still very please with it though.
Take care!
Andrew
Brilliant Andrew. Great episode
Thanks Ian - take care mate!
Impressive work, a piece of arts, joggling in the three dimensional world, way to complicated for me. One hole in a 90 degree angle to another one is enough.
Fantastic job mate! Love the way you go about things. What mill do you have there? Looking into getting my first one, my lathe just isn’t enough anymore!
Good stuff Andrew!🤓👍
Cheers Clive!
Nicely done Andrew. TFS, G :)
Thanks Graeme.
Stay safe.
Andtew
You have produced a very nice looking component from a daunting sized chunk of metal. You didnt show the pile of swarf but it must have been substantial. Very impressed with the finish from the cutter and the band saw. How many hours did you spend on that part?
Thanks Tim. I reckon I must have spent around 20hrs machining it plus 20hrs just thinking about it and setting up! Very pleased with the result though.
All the best.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal The time spent thinking about the order of operations was time well spent. With such a complex part, you've got to make sure that you have enough material remaining after each stage of the machining to enable the part to be gripped for the next stage !
Hello Andrew, interesting project. I was/am thinking about a Red Wing. Couple of things that put me off are cost and availability of castings. The Farm Boy may be a good alternative. Be interested to learn where you sourced the bar stock?
Hi Simon. I had originally planned on getting red wing castings from forest classics. A few things changed my mind: cost, availability, concerned my mill would be too small. I also considered the Kerzel but decided on the Farm Boy. The aluminium billet for the front frame came from penninemetals (ebay) about £14. For the rear frame I've purchased stock from myldanautodesignltd (ebay). No issues with either supplier, but check availability due to the coronavirus outbreak. I've subsequently found that the threads on the Farm Boy are mostly UNC. I thought about converting to BA as I've got most taps and dies. However I think I will have to bite the bullet and purchase UNC taps, which will be quite expense. There are loads of components to be machined but it should be challenging and keep me busy for quite a while.
Good luck with your decision. If you decide on the farm boy I hope you will share your experiences with me cos I think I will need as much help and advice as possible 😉
All the best.
Andrew
Learning Turning Metal - by Andrew Whale Thanks Andrew, I think the Farm Boy may be for me. I have just finished the current project which was a Stuart 10H built as a bit of light relief after a Stuart boiler feed pump which was a challenge. I am not as accomplished as you at making videos. Re the threads on the Farm Boy I am sure that you could use BSF or even metric. When I have downloaded the drawings I will look at them and suggest some alternatives, the other option may be ME which are close to some of the US sizes and readily available at low cost. I will let you know what I decide to do. Best regards, Simon
Great job Andrew, good job it was aluminium and not steel otherwise you'd still be at it :-)
That was a nice piece of machining. I am looking forward to another episode.
By the way how is your SX2P mill. Can you give me any feedback. I am planning to buy a mill but cannot decide between SX2 or SX2.7.
Thanks mate!
I had originally planned on getting the sx2.7 but when I visited arc I thought it would be too large for the space in my garage. I've made various enhancements the my sx2p, covered in my channel. I would say that the most important are gas strut conversion and scales with TouchDRO. The Dro makes it a totally different experience to use. It is a good little mill but power feed on the z-axis would be nice too. Based on previous experience I would say go as big as you have space for, though the sx2.7 still lacks dro on all three axis's.
Now I have more space, I've been considering the SX3.5DZP which ticks all boxes for me. Unfortunately quite expensive and still not available from Arc. I guess the Sieg factory in China has been heavily affected by coronavirus ☹️. Sieg gear seems pretty good and I love the sc4 lathe. So, I would suggest you go as big as possible based on your budget and space. If you go sx2.7 I think you will still spend more cash on a decent dro system.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal thanks a lot. I think I will go with 2.7
Well done
Thanks Don
Nice work! Have you used Sketchup to help with 3D visualisation?
Thanks for the suggestion Ron. Skethup sounds like a really good idea but I've been trying to learn fusion360 for 3d printing. Trying to learn sketchup would probably result in major brain overload. Too many fantastic things to learn but not enough time!
Really appreciate the suggestion though.
Take care.
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal To be honest, Andrew, I can't get on with Sketchup but it does seem to be the 'go to' for most designer/makers. I prefer my ketchup without the 'S'... it goes better with chips
Hi Andrew, very nice for someone who's "learning to turn metal". What is a Farm Boy Hit n Miss Engine?
Thanks Steve - I think hit n miss engines were more common on farms in the USA. They are internal combustion engines with a govenor on them. They fire to get up to speed and then free wheel. When the revs drop, they fire again - hence hit n miss. Facinating to watch.
All the best.
Andrew
Thank you Andrew. While I haven't conducted an extensive search, I'm guessing it was probably the forerunner of the "throttle controlled" internal combustion engine we know today.
Well done Andrew :)
ATB Adam
Thanks Adam.
Lock yourself in your workshop, create some magic and stay safe!
Cheers
Andrew