Good choice of driver boards. The first 12AU7 is a cascode triode topology which then feeds a long tail pair phase inverter. The Poseidon board uses a 12AX7 up front but only makes use of half of it. Also, I like the blue color of the boards you went with. I have watched this series over and over, always enjoy it. You did a super job on these Mark iIIs and I'm sure the client was thrilled with them!
I still use the Diamalloy pliers and nippers that I bought around 1973. They were made in Duluth, MN.The bronze bearings are tight and smooth as butter. I still get a little thrill when I pick them up; it's a joy to use a good tool. My main soldering iron is a Hexacon, and I haven't changed the tip in 40 years. I always re-tin it before letting it cool. I've found that if I'm using a good tool and having a bad time, I can't blame the tool. So I have to calm down, think things through and be patient.
Really class A job! Thanks for sharing. If there was any critique, I guess a little more light. Other than that, really high quality video. See you on the next one...
14:05 - Bad idea to bend the leads up against the body! Better to use the wire-bnder to bend them to about 1/8" on each end. Then 'curl' them under to acomodate the hole-spacing. Also, in the case of resistors, anything over a 1/2 watt should be spaced above the PC board.
Mark, when you do your soldering tutorial video, can you spend some time telling us which parts are more heat tolerant than others? I'm always afraid to dwell too long on heating a part for fear of damaging it with the transferred heat going up the lead.
Hey Mark, I may have missed this, but what is the purpose of the RX1 pot on those boards? I seem to have seen something similar in the past that was used to balance the signal to each output tube. In order to confirm that, one could use a scope with 2 channels (one on each kt88 grid). Then, use the add function and adjust until the signal is a flat line. Am I on the right track?
I'm a bit confused by your chart there, my understanding is the 12pF, 750pF, and 390pF caps need a rating of 1 KV... you have them in the low hundred of volts on your sheet.
I’ve found that by going to sites like AK and other communities like that seeking advice, is there a lot of condescending people there that tend to make one cautious of asking questions. An amateur asking questions that are not asked correctly are signals to others that a newbie is in the house!
Please tell me where I can get a pair of test clips like that! Long reach, standard (no shrouded safety mess) banana connectors... all features I have sought and never found... They're awesome... I need to know where to get them! LOL!
No, the 470 kilohm resistors should be yellow violet black yellow brown, and the 47 ohm should be yellow violet black black brown. A 47 kilohm resistor with 5 color bands would be yellow violet black orange brown, which is what you have written down under "470 kilohm"! Something's going to go up in smoke if you get these mixed up! In fact, it looks like all the multiplier colors you've listed are wrong. They should be; 10 kilohm=brown black black orange brown, 619 ohm=blue brown white brown brown, 22 kilohm=red red black orange brown, 100 kilohm=brown black black yellow brown, and 1.5 kilohm=brown green black red brown.
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Good choice of driver boards. The first 12AU7 is a cascode triode topology which then feeds a long tail pair phase inverter. The Poseidon board uses a 12AX7 up front but only makes use of half of it. Also, I like the blue color of the boards you went with. I have watched this series over and over, always enjoy it. You did a super job on these Mark iIIs and I'm sure the client was thrilled with them!
Great video Mark. Really appreciate the time you take to make these.
I still use the Diamalloy pliers and nippers that I bought around 1973. They were made in Duluth, MN.The bronze bearings are tight and smooth as butter. I still get a little thrill when I pick them up; it's a joy to use a good tool. My main soldering iron is a Hexacon, and I haven't changed the tip in 40 years. I always re-tin it before letting it cool. I've found that if I'm using a good tool and having a bad time, I can't blame the tool. So I have to calm down, think things through and be patient.
Really class A job! Thanks for sharing. If there was any critique, I guess a little more light. Other than that, really high quality video. See you on the next one...
14:05 - Bad idea to bend the leads up against the body! Better to use the wire-bnder to bend them to about 1/8" on each end. Then 'curl' them under to acomodate the hole-spacing.
Also, in the case of resistors, anything over a 1/2 watt should be spaced above the PC board.
Overhead camera was a great idea!
Mark, when you do your soldering tutorial video, can you spend some time telling us which parts are more heat tolerant than others? I'm always afraid to dwell too long on heating a part for fear of damaging it with the transferred heat going up the lead.
Hey Mark, I may have missed this, but what is the purpose of the RX1 pot on those boards? I seem to have seen something similar in the past that was used to balance the signal to each output tube. In order to confirm that, one could use a scope with 2 channels (one on each kt88 grid). Then, use the add function and adjust until the signal is a flat line. Am I on the right track?
6:11 - Even in GOOD light, it's hard to distinguish those bands!
Whose bright idea was it to employ a body color of light blue?
Well done, thanks.
Oh! The camera angle and stillness is working very well.
nice job I like point to point my self I am not in to using boards that said those look nice very clean
I'm a bit confused by your chart there, my understanding is the 12pF, 750pF, and 390pF caps need a rating of 1 KV... you have them in the low hundred of volts on your sheet.
I’ve found that by going to sites like AK and other communities like that seeking advice, is there a lot of condescending people there that tend to make one cautious of asking questions. An amateur asking questions that are not asked correctly are signals to others that a newbie is in the house!
Please tell me where I can get a pair of test clips like that! Long reach, standard (no shrouded safety mess) banana connectors... all features I have sought and never found... They're awesome... I need to know where to get them! LOL!
No, the 470 kilohm resistors should be yellow violet black yellow brown, and the 47 ohm should be yellow violet black black brown. A 47 kilohm resistor with 5 color bands would be yellow violet black orange brown, which is what you have written down under "470 kilohm"! Something's going to go up in smoke if you get these mixed up! In fact, it looks like all the multiplier colors you've listed are wrong. They should be; 10 kilohm=brown black black orange brown, 619 ohm=blue brown white brown brown, 22 kilohm=red red black orange brown, 100 kilohm=brown black black yellow brown, and 1.5 kilohm=brown green black red brown.