*HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE* Passing this tip I learned a little too late.. My left bumper started going out on me where it wouldn't respond and I had to press hard to get it to work. Take the battery cover off and batteries.... Give a blow threw those open vents like an NES cartridge. Surprised the hell out of me when I powered it back on and started working like new. And I just bought a new controller the week before! Try this before you go online or to the store for a replacement
How cool is that sucking soldering iron? Loved it. [Edit] I followed your instructions and replaced the RB. Not an original from alps but working fine!
This is the best video i have seen so far when it comes to bumper fixing. What if you do have a sod machine. Im so screwed. Tired of buying controllers.
Great tutorial, replaced both buttons on my controller thanks to it. It's awful how low quality the switches are, I have less than 50h of use on the controller. Btw, you don't need to take off the bumper covers, the small front plate can slide over them.
I did this and the replacement button did not work at all. Could I have broken that part of the circuit board when de-soldering? I was at it for a while, since I had a cheap plastic vacuum pump that didn't really help. I am going to try another button replacement, maybe I installed a dud. Otherwise, I may have ruined that part of the board?
If heat is a applied for too long it could cause damage to the pad or trace on the board, if you have a multimeter you could check the switch itself using the continuity mode between the two smaller pins on the switch. It should trigger the continuity test while the button is pressed - it is a bit fiddly to do unfortunately. Typically it should be rare to get an issue with new tactile buttons though. The other possibility is that the new solder didn’t adhere fully, could try adding a little more solder, making sure the joint looks like it merges onto the bird and the pin avoiding a ball of solder on the surface.
Hi, i read in the description about the right angle you used 6x6x4.5. But i cant seam to find that sieze. The only thing i found was 6x6x5mm at the Swedish amazon. For Xbox 360/xbox one will that sieze work?
Peter, thanks for the vid, how do you go about finding the part numbers for components? The switch you listed is no longer manufactured and I’m trying to determine how you found the specifications for this switch to order an equivalent…
Hey, I've now updated the amazon link in the description with a more specific search term, but ebay or electronics suppliers may be cheaper. This switch is a standard form factor so it can be replaced with switches from other manufacturers or suppliers, it's 6mm x 6mm x 4.5mm. Some listings may say 6.3mm or similar but it's a common part so they should be compatible.
You may have burned up a nearby resistor/capacitor, which Microsoft gladly squeezed very close to the through holes. Using too much heat could also damage the switch itself. Looks like you might have to buy another one or get a used PCB for cheap (or not, because they're usually overpriced).
If you have some new solder, it may help if you add a little bit of it while trying to heat up the existing solder. I had to do this for one of the joints too.
@@peterthefoxx , thank you for the quick reply, hopefully I can do the soldering job as well as you, I'm always crappy with those, should look up Tutorials and stuff
Please help won't work at all!! I have the 2ne revision XB One (the one with 1 piece bumpers line) I bought XB1/360 replacment buttons, they arrived looking different (no bottom plate on both sides). After soldering nothing happens, tried old switch nothing yet again. What could be the issue?! I can hear a click but it doesn't respond! Maybe the front? Where is it connecting exactly and closing a loop?
You mean I can't just blow into my controller (/sarcasm)? Have you tried other switches from the same series with different operating forces? I'm wondering how big of a difference there is in feel and sound between them. Thanks. Always appreciate videos that get to the point, aren't made for ads/algorithms, and actually shows how to fix something that's malfunctioning due to wear and tear, that cannot be fixed with blowing air on the actual switch that is sealed from air pressure from a mouth.
Heh thanks^. I haven't properly compared how the different operating forces feel - the original switches where white which should be 150gf - can't confirm though, I happened to already have red switches which are 130gf, these seemed about equal - I didn't notice a difference at least!
Yeah, those red switches seem nice, especially given that they're from Panasonic and not some random no-name brand. When I disassembled this controller for the first time, my switches were white, but I noticed that the solder was sloppily bridged between the contacts on the opposite side of the board, as if another consumer bought the controller, removed the OEM switches, and resoldered their non-functional ones on there. I've had a 360 controller before, and its RB didn't fail nearly as fast as this controller, and I wonder if the controller I bought from Amazon is a return. I soldered black switches I got from a typical Chinese seller on ebay and they did not last very long. I have 10 of those. I then bought white switches from a local seller and they lasted much longer, possibly parted from broken controllers because they didn't have a lot of them and it felt OEM. Of course, it's the same thing with joysticks, which I've also replaced on a 360 controller several times. So many cheap Chinese knockoffs that have bad deadzones or barely any range, so it might as well be a d-pad. I found a really high quality joystick eventually from a Chinese seller, ironically, but by that point, I decided to buy an Xbox One controller. Same bullshit, different year, lol. Thanks for the vid and info. Have a good one.
2 questions if you dont mind, What do you think was wrong with the first switch? What would cause a switch to feel squishy and lose its click but still work correctly with every press ?
Hey, not too sure - the inside of these switches is a metal dome that springs - usually the operation fails before the click: you may be interested in a tear down of this style of switch: ruclips.net/video/sdLm08zfE4g/видео.html
Do you know if all 4 of those contacts are used? I want to hook an arcade switch in place of that for pinball but those microswitches only have 2 wires.
The two pins closer to the edge of the controller are for the switch so you’ll just want to use those, the other two/larger ones just attach to the switch casing so they shouldn’t be connected
Hi, thank you for the video. Really well done. I took a right trigger housing off and the black wire has come away from the solder. There is no bare wire showing, do you just hold the wire in place and solder and it will get a connection (like the plastic part will melt)? Any help would be grateful, mum of a controller destroying son. He burns through controllers. Have 4 originals to try and fix and also like 6 3rd party ones I can take parts off. 😏
Hi! Thanks! The plastic may shrink from the heat exposing a bit of the wire so you can see if it will work before trying to solder it down, I’ve seen others do this but I think there’s quite a technique to it and it hasn’t quite worked out for me - I’ve always had to strip some of the plastic off the wire. I use a small automatic wire stripper but there’s probably some good guides for other ways to do wire stripping on RUclips too. Hope this helps!
Hi, I do have the same really annoying issue with my controller and if I blow in it, it works better, but my mouth is getting tired of doing it over every time... It is so annoying! Do you maybe know if an Xbox 360 controller does have the same part? So I can take an old Xbox 360 controller to switch that button part to my Xbox one controller? 😁
@@peterthefoxx hi, thanks for the reaction!!! I've been tested it today and it works!!! It does have the exact same part, so now I can finally play like it should be 😁
@@peterthefoxx but after a few weeks, the exact same problem is coming back 😫 how bad is this quality they use... And how even can this happen? It began clicking Dibble again and in the meanwhile it is going to be wearse and wearse.
Hey man my Xbox one S controller left bumper is not working properly it starts holding by itself even if i remove the plastic bumper i tried replacing the button but it doesn't work help me
@@typicalplayer9997 yeah the blowing fix was only temporary. The button and electronics are fine it's the shoulder lever that's worn. If i can get a new shoulder it will be good to go.
Same issue here, drives me crazy, soldered a new button in (controller is latest XB1 revision), and nothing registers! HELP! Did you solve your issue? Is the main board damaged?!
Hm sorry to hear that :/ If you haven’t already, could try pressing the switch directly without the plastic bumper in case it’s an issue with that part not pressing the button correctly. So long as the solder joints look neat, not bridged or look like a ‘dry solder joint’ it should be ok really
@@SlayerSeraph i just fixed it recently I got a spare controller with working lb/rb and swapped the boards Now it works flawlessly At first it had connection issues but then it fixed itself
@@peterthefoxx hey there. What do you mean by "dry solder joint" or "bridged". I cleaned old grainy residue from failed attempts by scuffing it off gently with a thin knife and needle. The board doesn't seem damaged, just a bit worn/faded on the back. Good shape in front. My question is, where is the important part for connectivity? The back where you solder the 4 pins? Or the front with the 2 copper rectangle bars where the button is laying? Which side makes the connection? My problem is that I bought 10 spare switches from Amazon but it arrived different than the image. Seems like old XB360 revision, not the new XB 2.0 revision button switches. The switches have straight 4 metallic pins. Unlike the original ones that have a "L" shaped metallic frame that rests on the 2 copper bars on the front side of the board. So what happens is it seems the switches don't have the metal L bottom line that rests on the board, so maybe it's not making full contact with the 2 copper lines in front and thus not working at all...?! I can't find a reliable source in Ebay or Amazon preferably that sells the Xbox One 2.0 controller Switches! Amazon seller sold me the wrong ones. And can't confirm if it's a bad board or switch for that reason. I'm using the new BLUE XB1 gamepad. Any ideas?
@@michaelg_23 i don't have a spare board unfortunately. Also see my comment above please. The replacment button switches I bought don't fit the same way as the XB1 Blue switches (new Revision). There's no metallic L shaped frame that sits on the front board... not sure if it matters or not.
I used my nail to lift & unclip the button from its position, the final attempt is shown but some failed attempts where cut. For the other side you see I used a screw driver instead to do the same thing, it is a bit easier this way however be careful not to damage the circuit board though!
Sorry to hear that :/ If the other shoulder button works but seems like it has a different click/feel perhaps there could be a bit broken off the plastic shoulder button itself. May be able to try connecting the controller while it’s taken apart and press the switch directly to confirm if you hadn’t already. Not really sure otherwise.
*HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE*
Passing this tip I learned a little too late..
My left bumper started going out on me where it wouldn't respond and I had to press hard to get it to work.
Take the battery cover off and batteries.... Give a blow threw those open vents like an NES cartridge.
Surprised the hell out of me when I powered it back on and started working like new.
And I just bought a new controller the week before!
Try this before you go online or to the store for a replacement
Rob Ruiz yoooo this actually worked tysm
how does blowing into it work tho lmao
@@luvnjaden must've knocked the dust out of the way inside. Lol, didn't think it would work when I did it.
this fixed my controller thank you!!!!!! more people with broken bumpers need to know this!
@@dominikwylie147 Glad to hear!✌
How cool is that sucking soldering iron? Loved it.
[Edit] I followed your instructions and replaced the RB. Not an original from alps but working fine!
I just soldered a fresh RB switch in. Thanks a bunch!
This is the best video i have seen so far when it comes to bumper fixing. What if you do have a sod machine. Im so screwed. Tired of buying controllers.
Thanks! The de-soldering iron (and soldering iron) are necessary really. You can try to use solder wick instead but I’ve found that to be much harder.
Podría usar mi pistola de calor?
Great tutorial, replaced both buttons on my controller thanks to it. It's awful how low quality the switches are, I have less than 50h of use on the controller.
Btw, you don't need to take off the bumper covers, the small front plate can slide over them.
Are the tactical switches the same in 360 controllers? If so I'm going to use one from an old controller for the xbox one.
Awesome. Worked like a charm.. I am interested on that de-soldering Iron. How much watts that has?
It's 40W. It works pretty well - better than the desoldering pumps for sure.
@@peterthefoxx Nice i ordered one =). I saw you didn´t use flux with it. =)
I did this and the replacement button did not work at all. Could I have broken that part of the circuit board when de-soldering? I was at it for a while, since I had a cheap plastic vacuum pump that didn't really help. I am going to try another button replacement, maybe I installed a dud. Otherwise, I may have ruined that part of the board?
If heat is a applied for too long it could cause damage to the pad or trace on the board, if you have a multimeter you could check the switch itself using the continuity mode between the two smaller pins on the switch. It should trigger the continuity test while the button is pressed - it is a bit fiddly to do unfortunately. Typically it should be rare to get an issue with new tactile buttons though. The other possibility is that the new solder didn’t adhere fully, could try adding a little more solder, making sure the joint looks like it merges onto the bird and the pin avoiding a ball of solder on the surface.
Absolutely masterpiece. Thank you, awesome video.
I had same issue and I soldered the RB switch in. Though, the issue still persists. Any ideas what could have happened?
I’ve got the same issue myself
Hi, i read in the description about the right angle you used 6x6x4.5. But i cant seam to find that sieze. The only thing i found was 6x6x5mm at the Swedish amazon. For Xbox 360/xbox one will that sieze work?
Peter, thanks for the vid, how do you go about finding the part numbers for components? The switch you listed is no longer manufactured and I’m trying to determine how you found the specifications for this switch to order an equivalent…
Hey, I've now updated the amazon link in the description with a more specific search term, but ebay or electronics suppliers may be cheaper. This switch is a standard form factor so it can be replaced with switches from other manufacturers or suppliers, it's 6mm x 6mm x 4.5mm. Some listings may say 6.3mm or similar but it's a common part so they should be compatible.
Thanks for the video. Batting .500 First controller was a success. Second was not, even after I tried soldering two different new switches.
You may have burned up a nearby resistor/capacitor, which Microsoft gladly squeezed very close to the through holes. Using too much heat could also damage the switch itself. Looks like you might have to buy another one or get a used PCB for cheap (or not, because they're usually overpriced).
No matter how much I heat up the contacts the solder doesn't melt. I don't have that punch tool you have which makes it looks easy...
If you have some new solder, it may help if you add a little bit of it while trying to heat up the existing solder. I had to do this for one of the joints too.
Nice video, gonna try it out on my controller, wondering how the switches from element 14 been working out for you? Would you recommend them overall?
T4 Games Thanks, yeah they’ve been working well, haven’t had any issue since this repair
@@peterthefoxx , thank you for the quick reply, hopefully I can do the soldering job as well as you, I'm always crappy with those, should look up Tutorials and stuff
Please help won't work at all!!
I have the 2ne revision XB One (the one with 1 piece bumpers line)
I bought XB1/360 replacment buttons, they arrived looking different (no bottom plate on both sides). After soldering nothing happens, tried old switch nothing yet again. What could be the issue?!
I can hear a click but it doesn't respond!
Maybe the front?
Where is it connecting exactly and closing a loop?
Thanks for the vid, great camera by the way, what are you using ?
It's shot with a Sony a6000 + F1.8 Lens
You mean I can't just blow into my controller (/sarcasm)?
Have you tried other switches from the same series with different operating forces? I'm wondering how big of a difference there is in feel and sound between them.
Thanks. Always appreciate videos that get to the point, aren't made for ads/algorithms, and actually shows how to fix something that's malfunctioning due to wear and tear, that cannot be fixed with blowing air on the actual switch that is sealed from air pressure from a mouth.
Heh thanks^. I haven't properly compared how the different operating forces feel - the original switches where white which should be 150gf - can't confirm though, I happened to already have red switches which are 130gf, these seemed about equal - I didn't notice a difference at least!
Yeah, those red switches seem nice, especially given that they're from Panasonic and not some random no-name brand. When I disassembled this controller for the first time, my switches were white, but I noticed that the solder was sloppily bridged between the contacts on the opposite side of the board, as if another consumer bought the controller, removed the OEM switches, and resoldered their non-functional ones on there. I've had a 360 controller before, and its RB didn't fail nearly as fast as this controller, and I wonder if the controller I bought from Amazon is a return.
I soldered black switches I got from a typical Chinese seller on ebay and they did not last very long. I have 10 of those. I then bought white switches from a local seller and they lasted much longer, possibly parted from broken controllers because they didn't have a lot of them and it felt OEM.
Of course, it's the same thing with joysticks, which I've also replaced on a 360 controller several times. So many cheap Chinese knockoffs that have bad deadzones or barely any range, so it might as well be a d-pad. I found a really high quality joystick eventually from a Chinese seller, ironically, but by that point, I decided to buy an Xbox One controller. Same bullshit, different year, lol.
Thanks for the vid and info. Have a good one.
Can I take the LB button from another controller and place it in RB?
Yep! LB and RB use the same switch type.
2 questions if you dont mind,
What do you think was wrong with the first switch?
What would cause a switch to feel squishy and lose its click but still work correctly with every press ?
Hey, not too sure - the inside of these switches is a metal dome that springs - usually the operation fails before the click: you may be interested in a tear down of this style of switch: ruclips.net/video/sdLm08zfE4g/видео.html
Do you know if all 4 of those contacts are used? I want to hook an arcade switch in place of that for pinball but those microswitches only have 2 wires.
The two pins closer to the edge of the controller are for the switch so you’ll just want to use those, the other two/larger ones just attach to the switch casing so they shouldn’t be connected
What gen controller/ would you know where I could get replacement bumpers for a controller with buttons
Hi, thank you for the video. Really well done.
I took a right trigger housing off and the black wire has come away from the solder. There is no bare wire showing, do you just hold the wire in place and solder and it will get a connection (like the plastic part will melt)?
Any help would be grateful, mum of a controller destroying son. He burns through controllers. Have 4 originals to try and fix and also like 6 3rd party ones I can take parts off. 😏
Hi! Thanks! The plastic may shrink from the heat exposing a bit of the wire so you can see if it will work before trying to solder it down, I’ve seen others do this but I think there’s quite a technique to it and it hasn’t quite worked out for me - I’ve always had to strip some of the plastic off the wire. I use a small automatic wire stripper but there’s probably some good guides for other ways to do wire stripping on RUclips too. Hope this helps!
Peter Fox ok, thank you for replying. 😀
Hi, I do have the same really annoying issue with my controller and if I blow in it, it works better, but my mouth is getting tired of doing it over every time... It is so annoying! Do you maybe know if an Xbox 360 controller does have the same part?
So I can take an old Xbox 360 controller to switch that button part to my Xbox one controller? 😁
I think the 360 does have the same type of switch. I have only seen it from photos, I haven’t opened up a 360 controller personally though
@@peterthefoxx hi, thanks for the reaction!!! I've been tested it today and it works!!! It does have the exact same part, so now I can finally play like it should be 😁
@@peterthefoxx but after a few weeks, the exact same problem is coming back 😫 how bad is this quality they use... And how even can this happen? It began clicking Dibble again and in the meanwhile it is going to be wearse and wearse.
Hey man my Xbox one S controller left bumper is not working properly it starts holding by itself even if i remove the plastic bumper i tried replacing the button but it doesn't work help me
typical player9 see comment by rob ruiz.
@@julianlak1017 i tried i even used compressed air but nothing don't worry i got a new one
@@typicalplayer9997 yeah the blowing fix was only temporary. The button and electronics are fine it's the shoulder lever that's worn. If i can get a new shoulder it will be good to go.
What size button do I need to use？
Its 6*6*5？
Yeah I believe that’s correct. It’s the most common right-angle tactile switch you’ll find typically.
I replaced the switch and it still doesn’t work. Does that mean I installed it wrong or what could be the issue
Same issue here, drives me crazy, soldered a new button in (controller is latest XB1 revision), and nothing registers! HELP!
Did you solve your issue? Is the main board damaged?!
Hm sorry to hear that :/ If you haven’t already, could try pressing the switch directly without the plastic bumper in case it’s an issue with that part not pressing the button correctly. So long as the solder joints look neat, not bridged or look like a ‘dry solder joint’ it should be ok really
@@SlayerSeraph i just fixed it recently
I got a spare controller with working lb/rb and swapped the boards
Now it works flawlessly
At first it had connection issues but then it fixed itself
@@peterthefoxx hey there. What do you mean by "dry solder joint" or "bridged".
I cleaned old grainy residue from failed attempts by scuffing it off gently with a thin knife and needle. The board doesn't seem damaged, just a bit worn/faded on the back. Good shape in front.
My question is, where is the important part for connectivity? The back where you solder the 4 pins? Or the front with the 2 copper rectangle bars where the button is laying? Which side makes the connection?
My problem is that I bought 10 spare switches from Amazon but it arrived different than the image. Seems like old XB360 revision, not the new XB 2.0 revision button switches.
The switches have straight 4 metallic pins. Unlike the original ones that have a "L" shaped metallic frame that rests on the 2 copper bars on the front side of the board.
So what happens is it seems the switches don't have the metal L bottom line that rests on the board, so maybe it's not making full contact with the 2 copper lines in front and thus not working at all...?!
I can't find a reliable source in Ebay or Amazon preferably that sells the Xbox One 2.0 controller Switches! Amazon seller sold me the wrong ones.
And can't confirm if it's a bad board or switch for that reason.
I'm using the new BLUE XB1 gamepad.
Any ideas?
@@michaelg_23 i don't have a spare board unfortunately. Also see my comment above please.
The replacment button switches I bought don't fit the same way as the XB1 Blue switches (new Revision). There's no metallic L shaped frame that sits on the front board... not sure if it matters or not.
Where can I buy one of those
There’s some sellers on Amazon now, I got all of this from element14 (Farnell) though. Links in the description
Well done video ! tks lots !
Damn, I don't have/know how to solder! 😭
Uff why did you destroyed the Sticker...😬
I think I’ll just get a new controller...
1:03 what did you do here????
I used my nail to lift & unclip the button from its position, the final attempt is shown but some failed attempts where cut. For the other side you see I used a screw driver instead to do the same thing, it is a bit easier this way however be careful not to damage the circuit board though!
I'm having this problem with the new elite series 2 controller does anyone know a fix for that
buy a new controller open it up take out the hardware for it replace it with your old controller and then return it
@@triplekkris or buy a New controller and just play with the New one 😂😂
Just soldered a new switch on and it still doesn't work 😢 any ideas?
Sorry to hear that :/ If the other shoulder button works but seems like it has a different click/feel perhaps there could be a bit broken off the plastic shoulder button itself. May be able to try connecting the controller while it’s taken apart and press the switch directly to confirm if you hadn’t already. Not really sure otherwise.
Have you ever solved this? Same issue here. Really disappointed.
Bought a new controller and I forgot to put warranty on it
i don't have the tools to remove the old Bumper :(
What is the tool called to remove the old solder?
@@blades4lyf108
for
Welding
@Blades_4lyf It's a Desoldering Iron. hope that helps.
Still doesn't work, tried 2 switches off a old Xbox 360 controller... damnit
360 switches are different try using an Xbox one controller switch
Did you solve your problem? Please I can't find a solution!!
What's up g.
I love you
Whyy is microsoft using microswitch buttons which can easily broke compared to ps4 conductive rubber pads such a dumb idea for microsoft
thumbs up but nah... if i try to do this i'll probabbly going to set controller on fire.
Why xbox bumper switch sucks 😭
Ya looks like I’m throwing my controller in the trash I’m not doing this soldering shit
It’s really easy
@@aaronoshea3629 doesn't work for me, wasted so many hours, soldered well but nothing.