That device you mentioned that “stops the drawer from coming out” is a cable management arm. You thread cables along/through it so you can slide the drawer in and out without pulling on any of the cables. Great looking rack!
the little metal swing arms are for wires and cables to attach to the shelf to make them moveable while not disconnecting the cables and push back in place
Great vid Lars! Make sure you have a service loop for when you need to move the rack forward so you don't stretch cables (a metre or so should be plenty), set your first patch panel above the switch as a priority - and the second below it, allow for ventilation between rack units that contain drives. UPS should go at the bottom to ensure its bottom heavy for stability, with PDU just above (some plugs need additional clearence which the rack might not allow for), always use velcro cable ties - not zip ties (you'll thank me later!), try to split the weight 60/40 for weight distribution on the feet rather than the casters or you might damage the floor (wife nearly killed me when I moved my rack). Depending on how hot it gets - you may need to consider fans for circulating air - I suggest looking at AC Infinity as they do some amazing rack mounted fan solutions for push &/or pull. Consider "rack studs" instead of cage nuts - they saved my fingers over the years (especially if you need to constantly remove/tweak & adjust!) If you like RPi's and plan to get more, you can buy variations of a rack mounted unit - great for keeping things tidy! (I have a 4 RPi, 1U unit that houses a Pi for Pi-Hole and Webmin, another for HA, another for Retropie, with the fourth being a sandbox to tinker.) I know you did some of this in the vid but I'd already typed when I hit "comment" lol. Best of luck and thanks for everything you're doing!
Those are awesome tips! Thanks a bunch! I am with you on most of the points, and have already done some, or planning to do so very shortly. The extended cables is a big one, as I am dealing with past Lars' mess. I am going to set up a Home Assistant automation for getting ventilation to it, using temp sensors and fans. I do like the idea of rack mounting RPi. That would be neat. Thanks again for watching and for supporting the channel.
I also have my server rack in a cubby, and it requires me to pull the entire rack out anytime I need to do anything. One tip I'll share is redo your cable drops so there is enough slack so that you can pull the rack out and away from the wall with enough room for you to get behind it. Nothing worse than having to tear down your rack or all your cables just so you can add another drop or you need to do something else behind the rack. Another trick is if you are going to keep your patch panels in the rack, use longer patch cables and leave enough slack on the runs behind so you can pull the patch panel out without having to disconnect everything if you need to add another drop. The suggestion I heard was use 1ft patch cables instead of the 6 inch patch cables. and make sure you have enough slack for the drops to pull out the patch panel far enough to get behind it and do any work you might need to do. Cable management helps cause you end up with lots of slack in some spots for that to work.
Very good tips. I am 100% going to sort out the cable lengths so I can roll the sucker out. I have to fix previous Lars' mess though first, which requires attic crawling 🙁 The 1ft patch cables will look untidy though? Not sure my OCD can take it 😂
When i did my large rack, i ran the cables down wall (inside) and mounted a cheap patch panel to the wall. Then i made patch cables long enough to pull the cabinet out from the wall and open up the sides when i want to work on it. One other advantage is if you ever move you can easily remove the rack and the next owner would have the pleasure of just plugging in there desired cables.
Haha, thanks. "Free" is depending on how you look at it. There is a LOT of work going into these videos and delivering them every week. I love it though! 😁
That wire is definitely a ground wire as a rack like this should be grounded properly. This is particularly important for shielded cabling installations. It's a big rack. You won't run out of space for a while in this one. Looks like a decently built rack. To be honest, how you layout a rack is really personal. Every installer does it differently. The main thing is you are happy with it. The layout of having the two patch panels, one above and one below the switch is fairly common. The rest is entirely up to you and what you want in the rack. You may want to add a couple of fans but see how you go. A standard 10A socket at 240V is 2400 Watts, plenty for switching. If you start putting servers in then you might run into issues, but honestly, a standard power outlet with a PDU is going to serve you fine for majority of things.
Awesome, thanks mate. Good to get some of my thoughts confirmed. Grounding is something I am learning is important, so will look at getting that done. I probably need to go through the floor. I was considering a server mainly for a few streaming ideas, but for now the power is fine. I am more concerned about floor stability, as it is an old converted shed.
Nice rack 😂 I would get a nice rack mount UPS to go right at the bottom, as currently it looks very top, front heavy - especially if you have anything heavy on those pull out shelves! You dont want it toppling forward! Ah you mentioned it near the end already 😊
Very nice rack. I had a similar type 42ru enclosed rack back in early 2005 when I was at uni. Had to get rid of it when I moved sadly. Purchased a new one this year and was so undecided on an enclosed one or open frame 4 post. Ended up going the open frame from startech seeing as I never had the panels on the old one and was always tinkering with servers n stuff. Now you have the fun expensive part. Filling it 😆
One other thing that I do is I flip a 1 RU self upside down and then place heavy items like NAS, NVR, UPS, and so forth on top of the shelf which helps support the weight. I then put a grill cover on the front. I have a two-post open Network rack so that works well for me. With you having posts in the back, you could attach a longer shelf from the back to do the same thing. Or, get the rails for stuff like servers, UPS, and full length NAS devices to help support the weight and allow for the devices to be easily "pulled" from the rack if they need maintenance or upgrades.
Why do you flip the shelf? I have straps and front and back guards on one shelf. I have two full length shelves so far, which would work for the Synology NAS I think.
@@LarsKlintTech Because when it is right side up, you cannot get the device on top of the shelf because the sides of the shelf are in the way and the device will not fit between them. Flipping the shelf upside down provides a flat space to set heavy devices on top of the shelf in its inverted position. The sides of the shelf are now underneath the bottom of the shelf and are helping to support the weight above it.
RackSolutions make great gear. I filled our server room with their racks, I didn’t want anything else. I also have three smaller half height racks as well in other locations in the building. Again, really great gear.
The only thing I consider an obvious to-do that isn't already mentioned by someone (apologies if my quick scroll-through missed someone!) is that's it's quite common to stick a camera on or in the rack to record anyone coming and going from its general vicinity. Also: get and SFP+ DAC cable to link the NVR and UNAS-Pro to the switch that way. Obviously won't benefit any single device on the 1-gigabit downlinks, but the main point with those is total aggregate usage across however many connected devices.
I have a camera on the door just outside the office, so that is probably adequate. I have a DAC for the UNAS, but waiting on a longer one for the NVR, as the connection is in the back. I hear you though on the 10G path. I have several videos coming on that journey :)
Look into getting some 2RU/3RU/4RU drawers for storage of items like rack nuts and that handy-dandy little tool that you use to install rack nuts. You can also store things like patch cables and keystones and other little bits.
Nice! A few things. Obviously others have touched on this already 1. I would pull the door off to the back, that way if you need to utilize the plug in the back to go directly into the rack, you can, there's just two spring loaded pins (usually) holding the door on. 2. If you want to install things a little faster, you can use a battery/electric drill to quickly tighten down the screws, making sure that the slip clutch is at the weakest! (usually 1) (this is the key from over torquing and stripping the heads) 3. If you want to install things manually, like in the video, which is common practice as well, obviously, start with the bottom two screws, when then when reaching for the top screws, the weight of the unit will pull the front top back, if you let go of it (I recently learned this one!) 4. UPS, if you do install a larger UPS, put that weight at the bottom as best practice, as those can be like 100+ Ibs depending on the size and models 5. PDU, if UPS is installed, I would put the PDU at the middle, that way cables can reach from ether going up or going down, but your discretion! that tool is pretty sweet! Been there, some of those freaking cage nuts are insanely thick and are almost impossible to squeeze!
Great advice mate and thanks a ton for writing all that out. I like using a screwdriver to get a feel for how tight the screws are. I'm definitely considering easier access to the back, whether that is removing the door or longer cables to roll it, or both. The current "rack contortion crawl" only works so far 😂 UPS is on the cards and will go at the bottom. Thanks again.
I highly recommend removing the rear door. It makes it much easier to access the back of the rack and you don't need to pull the rack completely out of the corner to access the back. The cable management rails in the back are both cable management organization rails and mounts for 0U or vertical accessories, such as power distribution units and cable raceways. The last thing I highly suggest is to figure out a way to push air from the top-rear of the rack through the top and out the front. The airflow just needs to help circulation because all of the equipment fans are going to be blowing towards the rear and keeping the heat trapped. This can be as simple as a 1U duct at the top running to the rear 1U slot.
You are not the first to suggest taking the rear door off. I will also make the CAT6 cables longer so I can roll out the rack completely. I will automate a fan above it to push air forward when it gets too warm. The top 1U is already a vented panel, so that should work.
Green and Yellow does indeed mean it is a grounding wire. You should try to bond the cabinet to ground as well. With at least the same thickness of cable as was in the door. If you go for Cat 6A cable later on when you upgrade to 10Gbit as you eluded to in a previous video. those cables should be grounded to the cabinet as well, so there could potentially be a lot of current going out through the grounding wire from the cabinet if something goes bad.
That is great advice, thank you. My problem is I have to go through the floor to get to the actual ground. Any suggestions as to whether there is a standard way to do that with a bulkhead or something?
Is the outlet behind the cabinet a grounded outlet? Though if it is a normal domestic outlet the grounding wire in there is probably only 1mm² or so, so probably not enough for all your future cabling but for now it is probably enough to remove any potential static electricity. And then when you decide to upgrade the outlet ask the electrician to go in an extra thick ground cable on the side maybe? I'm not an electrician though 😉
@@RobertSandell All power points in Aus are grounded (I think). I am not a sparky either ⚡ Okay, that sounds like a plan. Thanks again Rob. Really appreciate the tips.
Interested to see what you are going to do with shelves, I have my synology sitting on mine but its a standard shelf not the fancy pull out thing that you have.
I will move my Synology to the half shelf I think, but waiting on getting a UPS first. I am probably moving my RPi as well to that. I am likely going to have a laptop on the one shelf for various things that I can remote into.
The shipping for it wouldn't be cheap. Ebay has some pretty good finds if you're lucky. Or if you know someone in the industry they come up every so often for free. But yeah, pricey bloody things otherwise.
Hahaha, thank you 😁 I have no idea if it is expensive tbh, but I can find cheaper ones and more expensive ones with a quick search. I doubt the cheaper ones would be as well made. The raw steel alone for it would be AUD1500 or more.
@timgraham2942 i definitely agree with you and not to justify it but those shelves alone would be around $400 aud each. I got ones without the sliding rails that support 180kg each. $250 aud if you don't find them on sale for $200.
Everyone knows the price of everything but the value of nothing. That’s a good quality cabinet made here in Australia and 100kg+ shipped to the regions.
@@LarsKlintTech The links I sent were for the Precision Rack Mount Kit and the RJ-45 Dust Covers, 24 pack. I do not know if this is available in Australia or not, but the Power Distribution Hi Density would also make a great add to your network rack kit.
need power strips, look at UI power backup systems for the main Rack . plan you spaces and what you thoughts are on future adds to your NVRS and switches leave more slack so if needed you can roll it out if ever necessary
Doesn't the UI power backup system require a second power source? I am planning it as much as I can with the info I have. UPS units at the bottom is a must. The slack I am aware of, but some of the cables are short as they were done a long time ago before I had even half an idea of what I was doing. Good advice though.
@@LarsKlintTech it would be perfect to have second power source, but it also works as just secondary power supply in case built-in fails, so you get at least some high-availability for power supply with it ;) People complaining about not having secondary power supply inside each unit, but this way it's actually waay cheaper, as you have just single unit being just backup power supply for everything. And it's almost impossible to have broken power supplies at the same time in every device :D so it's more like "oh, power supply broke in my switch, so let's use that Power Backup just for this single device, others still use their internal ones". And then you can simply replace faulty unit when you can do downtime.
Writing this comment before watching the entire video so you may have corrected it. When installing cage nuts, install them with the tabs to the left and right side. If you place the tabs on the top or bottom you can run into fitment issues when installing or removing cage nuts in the next opening as they can overlap each other. Not the biggest deal but the second nut you put in was not in the correct orientation. Ditch the silly cage nut tool and find the super cheap “bent piece of metal” ones. I have installed thousands of cage nuts in my carrier and simple tools that don’t fail are the way to go.
I am glad you noticed, cause I did too in editing, and then fixed it 😁 I really like the cage nut tool, when I don't do a lot of installs. It makes it super easy, and it is a very simple tool. It only has a spring.
On the ventilation note If you do ever plan to lab with big rack mount servers exhausting will be a huge issue. I have an open rack backed into a closet with about a foot behind it and lots of open air to the side, with one server (Dell R720xd) it gets VERY hot because there is not enough room for the hot exhaust to go anywhere. With almost no space behind your rack and the only escape being up and hope it diffuses through that front 1U vent i would look into at the least the top being 2U space with a few fans pulling air out.
That is good advice. Thanks for sharing. I am considering putting a fan in the ceiling above it as well, which will exhaust hot air into the roof space. I do that for my other 6U rack that is in a cupboard. The 2U space at the top might be a good idea too.
Definitly watch the temp in that area. It is not full but you have minimal airflow from the back so heat will build up. Consider a top shelf or top of cage fan asemply to pull air through.
I have a cabinet half that size. I have 4 1U servers and 4 1U switches and 2 APC UPS and still have heaps of room. One thing I did was to have enough cable hanging down the back of the cabinet so I can pull the cabinet out from the wall as sometimes I need to get to the back of the cabinet for wiring. Looks like you cannot do that? Also mine is not a deep cabinet. I have a fan on it and use home automation to turn it on and off as the UPS has an ambient temperature sensor I can use.
Very nice. Those are all things I want to do. The slack cable is tricky, as some of the CAT6 was put in with not enough length to do that. That was a long time ago so probably time to fix it. I am definitely going to add HA setup for cooling too.
As you have much space left, I can recommend the DAP 2HE rack panel for any kinds of small thinks like esp32, RPi, USB power and so on. You can easily find modules to print for that online. Btw: What does your family say to such a rack in the kitchen!?
Thanks for the tip. I do want something like that too, so that might work. The rack isn't in our house, it is my office on the farm, which is a separate building.
That's the worlds most over engineered cage nut tool. I've use a small vice grip for ~30 years. The best "uni-tasker" is something that looks like a fingernail clipper without the cutting bits.
I probably would have ordered the large rack. You will probably outgrow this one pretty quickly. Just kidding, have fun with it. You're off to a good stsrt withcthe new build.
They make cable combs that will help you organize your cat6 while you’re velcroing them or zip-tying them. Also, where’s your gateway? Do you use a UDM or a CloudKey?
Is that what they are called? Got it. I had seen pros use those, but didn't know where to get them. The UDM SE is in another building where the Starlink is.
@@LarsKlintTech OK. most people would. Flat pack is much easier especially if you need to move it across hardwood floors, stairs, etc. Flat pack is pretty much the same as a fully assembled rack, just much easier to move,
@@guytech7310 Your opinion isn't necessarily "most people". And in this case I beg to differ that it isn't the same at all. It would have taken hours to assemble, and some of the panels are so accurately put together, you might mess it up yourself. I am all for flat pack for some things, but this isn't one.
As already stated, that wire is a grounding wire. You can use it to bond items in your rack to the ground, such as patch panels for shielded cable or devices that require a separate ground. You can bond this to an earth rod-just a copper stake (normally 1.2m tall when you purchase) driven into the earth and the wire joined on. You could always run the cable through your wall and down one of your deck posts if you cannot get under the floor. In terms of power, a standard GPO has 2400 watts or 10 amps available. You should be careful that the circuit breaker controlling this circuit only has so many amps available (normally 16 or 20 amps), and considering you may have other things on this circuit, you do not want to overload it. It may be worth getting a separate circuit run for your rack. I'd say that when organising the devices in your rack, your method seems pretty sound. Everyone has their own way. I am totally getting rack jealousy from yours, I started about 12 months ago on a home networking project (a sizeable undertaking..., building a full-on network cupboard now!!) and bought a 12RU rack to start. Turned out too small, so I moved to 27RU and guess what. It's too small again 🤣, already filled it up and need more room! It may be time for a 42 or 48RU! Anyway, have fun with your new rack, Lars!
Thanks so much for the feedback. The earthing is all new to me, but super important. I will get on to that. When (not if) I get more devices into the rack I will consider getting a sparky to fix the power supply properly. Also, the correct size of a network rack is n+1 😂 Thanks mate. Keep the comments coming.
@@LarsKlintTech Rack studs have two advantages. The first one: They clip in from the front. When adding a device in a one U slot, it's sometimes difficult to get the cage nuts into the tight space. Your handy tool is not too common, especially with unplanned maintenance. The second one and my favourite. Its far more easy to install hardware alone, because the thread will hold onto the device when you push against it. Then easy screw in by hand. So its far less struggle without managing a screwdriver, screw and the expensive hardware all at once. I love to use it in our datacenters! Greets from germany
Wow. Common folks will ever get that in regards to the price. So what do you feel it taking up space beside your window, sticking out? Nice work! Lars.
If you want something bad enough, you find a way. I am nothing special, just working hard to deliver quality content I enjoy making. Companies see value in that and support the channel. You could do it too 🙂
@@LarsKlintTechalso the rear door is serving no purpose so remove it. And rack bottom up with heavy (UPS, Storage) and heat down low and cables up high.
Dude, with a 19" Open Wall Mount Rack 15U from StarTech would have been the better solution in your case. Now you have such a huge block in the room. 😅
How do you know what I like though, and what the plans are? I am already using 16U on what I have now, so 15U would already be full then. I don't look at it from where I sit, and it isn't in the main house. I think it will work really well.
@PhillHills lol i keep my 25ru in my lounge room. Going to have vaporwave rgb lights on the inside of the rack. Plan on fixing up my first ever p.c I built into a modded sleeper display build unraid server.
@@LarsKlintTech Just thought of posting the comment regarding the messy cables after you said for us not to post comment about it knowing fully that we (or at least me) will. Love your videos buddy. Keep them coming
Just like other comments ups at the bottom then bigger or or deeper servers like 4u etc.. then smaller lighter server toward middle then the networking routers switches etc fyi RackStuds Are better
Makes a lot of sense. What I have isn't too heavy, apart from the NAS. UPS is coming next I hope, so that will go at the bottom. Then probably a backup power supply.
Oh, I do care. It is on castors, so when I get the cabling sorted (extended) I will be able to use the sides and back. Placement is where it makes sense in the current setup.
It's in my office where there is a kitchenette. It is well ventilated, doesn't bother anyone, fits perfectly in that nook, and is close to where a lot of existing wiring is. Where would you have put it then?
@@LarsKlintTechGranted I am aware that you are aware but this goes WAY BEYOND everything Holy and Sacred about IT technology. My biggest fear is MOISTURE. I apologize if I am in a panic but although it’s very beautiful, but my OCD is kicked in high gear. I have been doing stuff like this nearly middle school (Y2k), so I have a bit of passion for this sort of thing, not to mention a BS In Cybersecurity. But back to your rack, airflow is key for performance but that goes hand in hand with dryness and temperature as a maintained 55° is an ancient rule of thumb. Cool air should flow from the bottom to the top. 😮💨 Yeah it’s the moisture from me. Maybe the living room and build into your server rack a home theater setup with various amps and tuners and such.
@@kid_rajah I still think you are mixing up professional enterprise installs with amateur setups driven by curiosity and passion. To your point I am installing a fan above the rack, which does indeed push air from top to bottom. If it gets particularly hot in that room, I am installing an automation that will turn on the air con, located on the opposite wall in a not very large room. Moisture is very unlikely to be an issue in this case, but I appreciate your concern. The kitchen is not used for anything other than making a cup of tea. Rural Victoria in Australia is also very very dry, and I have never had any issues with moisture on all of my outdoor and indoor IoT devices. Airflow will definitely ensure that too. I'd probably go for a lot lower than 55C too 😛 The living room is a pretty big no no for most homes I would have thought. Anything flashing lights and with fans going is usually not what you'd want where you relax with the family. This current spot is sort of what you describe anyway. Thanks for your feedback. I really appreciate it.
@oh geeze Australia 😬. Nah you got it champ. You may as well get a gun turret to your setup and forget everything I said for those huge bugs native to Australia. Nope im minding my business in the states. RIP Steve Erwin but oh no my friend… Australia? Na, cute woman there but I will hard pass.
I would highly recommend rack studs over cage nuts as well. Game changer
Interesting. Why is that?
@@LarsKlintTech rack studs sag, drives me crazy. not a problem with standard cage nuts
@@LarsKlintTech that's a kinda securing mecanism that's easier to work with than cage nuts, u can secure em without any tool at all
@@bastiancalderon Sounds like pros and cons for both.
@@durakis/dev/mount from patchbox for the win, they are in metal
That device you mentioned that “stops the drawer from coming out” is a cable management arm. You thread cables along/through it so you can slide the drawer in and out without pulling on any of the cables. Great looking rack!
Thanks mate. I have learnt that now 😁
Yeah, it is a beauty. Now to fill it....
Consider removing the back door so that you can access the wall outlet.
I am going to extend the CAT6 going into the rack, so I can roll it out fully instead.
the little metal swing arms are for wires and cables to attach to the shelf to make them moveable while not disconnecting the cables and push back in place
Yep, I realised that after filming too (and from the comments). When I put a laptop or something else in, I will use that.
Great vid Lars! Make sure you have a service loop for when you need to move the rack forward so you don't stretch cables (a metre or so should be plenty), set your first patch panel above the switch as a priority - and the second below it, allow for ventilation between rack units that contain drives. UPS should go at the bottom to ensure its bottom heavy for stability, with PDU just above (some plugs need additional clearence which the rack might not allow for), always use velcro cable ties - not zip ties (you'll thank me later!), try to split the weight 60/40 for weight distribution on the feet rather than the casters or you might damage the floor (wife nearly killed me when I moved my rack). Depending on how hot it gets - you may need to consider fans for circulating air - I suggest looking at AC Infinity as they do some amazing rack mounted fan solutions for push &/or pull. Consider "rack studs" instead of cage nuts - they saved my fingers over the years (especially if you need to constantly remove/tweak & adjust!) If you like RPi's and plan to get more, you can buy variations of a rack mounted unit - great for keeping things tidy! (I have a 4 RPi, 1U unit that houses a Pi for Pi-Hole and Webmin, another for HA, another for Retropie, with the fourth being a sandbox to tinker.) I know you did some of this in the vid but I'd already typed when I hit "comment" lol. Best of luck and thanks for everything you're doing!
Those are awesome tips! Thanks a bunch!
I am with you on most of the points, and have already done some, or planning to do so very shortly. The extended cables is a big one, as I am dealing with past Lars' mess.
I am going to set up a Home Assistant automation for getting ventilation to it, using temp sensors and fans.
I do like the idea of rack mounting RPi. That would be neat.
Thanks again for watching and for supporting the channel.
Don’t know if it’s been said yet. But I would recommend putting all the heavier equipment at the bottom.
Thanks for the tip. I will be putting the UPS at the bottom for example, along with possibly a server.
I also have my server rack in a cubby, and it requires me to pull the entire rack out anytime I need to do anything. One tip I'll share is redo your cable drops so there is enough slack so that you can pull the rack out and away from the wall with enough room for you to get behind it. Nothing worse than having to tear down your rack or all your cables just so you can add another drop or you need to do something else behind the rack. Another trick is if you are going to keep your patch panels in the rack, use longer patch cables and leave enough slack on the runs behind so you can pull the patch panel out without having to disconnect everything if you need to add another drop. The suggestion I heard was use 1ft patch cables instead of the 6 inch patch cables. and make sure you have enough slack for the drops to pull out the patch panel far enough to get behind it and do any work you might need to do. Cable management helps cause you end up with lots of slack in some spots for that to work.
Very good tips. I am 100% going to sort out the cable lengths so I can roll the sucker out. I have to fix previous Lars' mess though first, which requires attic crawling 🙁
The 1ft patch cables will look untidy though? Not sure my OCD can take it 😂
AC Infinity makes rack mounted fans with a temperature display and settings where it can alter fan speed automatically based on temps.
Oooh, nice. Does it have an interface for Home Assistant too?
When i did my large rack, i ran the cables down wall (inside) and mounted a cheap patch panel to the wall. Then i made patch cables long enough to pull the cabinet out from the wall and open up the sides when i want to work on it. One other advantage is if you ever move you can easily remove the rack and the next owner would have the pleasure of just plugging in there desired cables.
Interesting idea.
Well, looks like you doing everything right so far to me, getting a whole shed, and a barn, load of free gear!
Haha, thanks. "Free" is depending on how you look at it. There is a LOT of work going into these videos and delivering them every week. I love it though! 😁
That wire is definitely a ground wire as a rack like this should be grounded properly. This is particularly important for shielded cabling installations. It's a big rack. You won't run out of space for a while in this one. Looks like a decently built rack.
To be honest, how you layout a rack is really personal. Every installer does it differently. The main thing is you are happy with it. The layout of having the two patch panels, one above and one below the switch is fairly common. The rest is entirely up to you and what you want in the rack. You may want to add a couple of fans but see how you go.
A standard 10A socket at 240V is 2400 Watts, plenty for switching. If you start putting servers in then you might run into issues, but honestly, a standard power outlet with a PDU is going to serve you fine for majority of things.
Awesome, thanks mate. Good to get some of my thoughts confirmed.
Grounding is something I am learning is important, so will look at getting that done. I probably need to go through the floor.
I was considering a server mainly for a few streaming ideas, but for now the power is fine. I am more concerned about floor stability, as it is an old converted shed.
@@LarsKlintTech Once you add servers, the floor may become an issue. Might need to add a brick pillar under the floor if you have access
@@EsotericArctos Yep, plenty of access. I might restump the whole building, and would then upgrade that part of the flooring.
Nice rack 😂
I would get a nice rack mount UPS to go right at the bottom, as currently it looks very top, front heavy - especially if you have anything heavy on those pull out shelves! You dont want it toppling forward! Ah you mentioned it near the end already 😊
100% agree. UPS is definitely on the immediate wish list, also due to the many power outages we have. Some stability wouldn't hurt either.
Very nice rack. I had a similar type 42ru enclosed rack back in early 2005 when I was at uni. Had to get rid of it when I moved sadly.
Purchased a new one this year and was so undecided on an enclosed one or open frame 4 post. Ended up going the open frame from startech seeing as I never had the panels on the old one and was always tinkering with servers n stuff.
Now you have the fun expensive part. Filling it 😆
I didn't really have a choice of open or closed, but at least I can take the sides off. 😁
Yeah, filling it.....😏
One other thing that I do is I flip a 1 RU self upside down and then place heavy items like NAS, NVR, UPS, and so forth on top of the shelf which helps support the weight. I then put a grill cover on the front. I have a two-post open Network rack so that works well for me.
With you having posts in the back, you could attach a longer shelf from the back to do the same thing. Or, get the rails for stuff like servers, UPS, and full length NAS devices to help support the weight and allow for the devices to be easily "pulled" from the rack if they need maintenance or upgrades.
Why do you flip the shelf? I have straps and front and back guards on one shelf.
I have two full length shelves so far, which would work for the Synology NAS I think.
@@LarsKlintTech Because when it is right side up, you cannot get the device on top of the shelf because the sides of the shelf are in the way and the device will not fit between them. Flipping the shelf upside down provides a flat space to set heavy devices on top of the shelf in its inverted position. The sides of the shelf are now underneath the bottom of the shelf and are helping to support the weight above it.
@@Polkster13 Ah, right. The shelves I have don't have sides on them, so I am good I think.
RackSolutions make great gear. I filled our server room with their racks, I didn’t want anything else. I also have three smaller half height racks as well in other locations in the building. Again, really great gear.
I can't fault it either. 👌
Hi Lars, you can run the rack fans through a temp controller and also duct it out the eave.
Oh, it will all be controlled through Home Assistant 😏
The only thing I consider an obvious to-do that isn't already mentioned by someone (apologies if my quick scroll-through missed someone!) is that's it's quite common to stick a camera on or in the rack to record anyone coming and going from its general vicinity.
Also: get and SFP+ DAC cable to link the NVR and UNAS-Pro to the switch that way. Obviously won't benefit any single device on the 1-gigabit downlinks, but the main point with those is total aggregate usage across however many connected devices.
I have a camera on the door just outside the office, so that is probably adequate. I have a DAC for the UNAS, but waiting on a longer one for the NVR, as the connection is in the back. I hear you though on the 10G path. I have several videos coming on that journey :)
When you released the UNAS PRO video and I saw your rack... I thought... 🤔... Lars really needs a bigger rack... and here it is...
And you weren't wrong 😂
The slots on the back of the rack can hold two vertical PDU’s or you can get cable management “fingers” to snap in.
Oh, I see. Just another way to mount them. I figured I could "cable tie" the cables to those hooks too. What are the "fingers"?
Look into getting some 2RU/3RU/4RU drawers for storage of items like rack nuts and that handy-dandy little tool that you use to install rack nuts. You can also store things like patch cables and keystones and other little bits.
Ooooooh, drawers. I didn't think of that. That would be a very handy addition. Thanks!
Nice!
A few things. Obviously others have touched on this already
1. I would pull the door off to the back, that way if you need to utilize the plug in the back to go directly into the rack, you can, there's just two spring loaded pins (usually) holding the door on.
2. If you want to install things a little faster, you can use a battery/electric drill to quickly tighten down the screws, making sure that the slip clutch is at the weakest! (usually 1) (this is the key from over torquing and stripping the heads)
3. If you want to install things manually, like in the video, which is common practice as well, obviously, start with the bottom two screws, when then when reaching for the top screws, the weight of the unit will pull the front top back, if you let go of it (I recently learned this one!)
4. UPS, if you do install a larger UPS, put that weight at the bottom as best practice, as those can be like 100+ Ibs depending on the size and models
5. PDU, if UPS is installed, I would put the PDU at the middle, that way cables can reach from ether going up or going down, but your discretion!
that tool is pretty sweet! Been there, some of those freaking cage nuts are insanely thick and are almost impossible to squeeze!
Great advice mate and thanks a ton for writing all that out. I like using a screwdriver to get a feel for how tight the screws are.
I'm definitely considering easier access to the back, whether that is removing the door or longer cables to roll it, or both. The current "rack contortion crawl" only works so far 😂
UPS is on the cards and will go at the bottom.
Thanks again.
I highly recommend removing the rear door. It makes it much easier to access the back of the rack and you don't need to pull the rack completely out of the corner to access the back.
The cable management rails in the back are both cable management organization rails and mounts for 0U or vertical accessories, such as power distribution units and cable raceways.
The last thing I highly suggest is to figure out a way to push air from the top-rear of the rack through the top and out the front. The airflow just needs to help circulation because all of the equipment fans are going to be blowing towards the rear and keeping the heat trapped. This can be as simple as a 1U duct at the top running to the rear 1U slot.
You are not the first to suggest taking the rear door off. I will also make the CAT6 cables longer so I can roll out the rack completely.
I will automate a fan above it to push air forward when it gets too warm. The top 1U is already a vented panel, so that should work.
the folding parts at the back of the pull out shelves are to secure cables to so they dont get trapped when moving the shelf in and out.
Yeah, that makes sense. I kinda had that thought too, but didn't put anything on the shelf yet to test it. Thanks for the info.
You should put female ends on your existing wall Eth cables. This way you can patch in an umbilical connection to help roll the rack in and out.
I will definitely have to do something to extend some of them. I would very much like to be able to roll it out.
These racks are designed for use with a vertical mount PDU. They are pricy, and not necessary in your case, but enthusiast :)
Oh right. I will check it out, and then I can maybe get better cable management of those thick cables too.
You can get drawers like 4u & 6u deep drawers meant for server racks.
They would be super useful. I'll look into those.
Green and Yellow does indeed mean it is a grounding wire. You should try to bond the cabinet to ground as well. With at least the same thickness of cable as was in the door. If you go for Cat 6A cable later on when you upgrade to 10Gbit as you eluded to in a previous video. those cables should be grounded to the cabinet as well, so there could potentially be a lot of current going out through the grounding wire from the cabinet if something goes bad.
That is great advice, thank you. My problem is I have to go through the floor to get to the actual ground. Any suggestions as to whether there is a standard way to do that with a bulkhead or something?
Is the outlet behind the cabinet a grounded outlet?
Though if it is a normal domestic outlet the grounding wire in there is probably only 1mm² or so, so probably not enough for all your future cabling but for now it is probably enough to remove any potential static electricity. And then when you decide to upgrade the outlet ask the electrician to go in an extra thick ground cable on the side maybe?
I'm not an electrician though 😉
@@RobertSandell All power points in Aus are grounded (I think). I am not a sparky either ⚡
Okay, that sounds like a plan. Thanks again Rob. Really appreciate the tips.
Interested to see what you are going to do with shelves, I have my synology sitting on mine but its a standard shelf not the fancy pull out thing that you have.
I will move my Synology to the half shelf I think, but waiting on getting a UPS first. I am probably moving my RPi as well to that. I am likely going to have a laptop on the one shelf for various things that I can remote into.
$5,000 for a rack is highway robbery, imo. However sir, u have a very nice rack. 😊
The shipping for it wouldn't be cheap. Ebay has some pretty good finds if you're lucky.
Or if you know someone in the industry they come up every so often for free.
But yeah, pricey bloody things otherwise.
Hahaha, thank you 😁
I have no idea if it is expensive tbh, but I can find cheaper ones and more expensive ones with a quick search. I doubt the cheaper ones would be as well made. The raw steel alone for it would be AUD1500 or more.
Wayyyyyy to expensive for it for sure
@timgraham2942 i definitely agree with you and not to justify it but those shelves alone would be around $400 aud each.
I got ones without the sliding rails that support 180kg each. $250 aud if you don't find them on sale for $200.
Everyone knows the price of everything but the value of nothing. That’s a good quality cabinet made here in Australia and 100kg+ shipped to the regions.
I know the two links I posted were for the US store, but hopefully you can get these in Australia.
Oh, YT removes links 🙁
@@LarsKlintTech The links I sent were for the Precision Rack Mount Kit and the RJ-45 Dust Covers, 24 pack. I do not know if this is available in Australia or not, but the Power Distribution Hi Density would also make a great add to your network rack kit.
Really good, congratulations. 8:20 is the PDU mounts.
Thanks mate. It is a nice upgrade.
Yeah, right. So another mounting option. Neat.
I've got rack envy
It is a very nice rack 😊
You’re doing exactly what I’m looking to do now! Thanks for this!🎉
You are most welcome. It is quite the journey!
need power strips, look at UI power backup systems for the main Rack . plan you spaces and what you thoughts are on future adds to your NVRS and switches
leave more slack so if needed you can roll it out if ever necessary
Doesn't the UI power backup system require a second power source?
I am planning it as much as I can with the info I have. UPS units at the bottom is a must.
The slack I am aware of, but some of the cables are short as they were done a long time ago before I had even half an idea of what I was doing. Good advice though.
@@LarsKlintTech it would be perfect to have second power source, but it also works as just secondary power supply in case built-in fails, so you get at least some high-availability for power supply with it ;)
People complaining about not having secondary power supply inside each unit, but this way it's actually waay cheaper, as you have just single unit being just backup power supply for everything. And it's almost impossible to have broken power supplies at the same time in every device :D so it's more like "oh, power supply broke in my switch, so let's use that Power Backup just for this single device, others still use their internal ones". And then you can simply replace faulty unit when you can do downtime.
@@morsikpl Yeah, right. I am learning. It does sound handy for redundancy.
Writing this comment before watching the entire video so you may have corrected it. When installing cage nuts, install them with the tabs to the left and right side. If you place the tabs on the top or bottom you can run into fitment issues when installing or removing cage nuts in the next opening as they can overlap each other. Not the biggest deal but the second nut you put in was not in the correct orientation. Ditch the silly cage nut tool and find the super cheap “bent piece of metal” ones. I have installed thousands of cage nuts in my carrier and simple tools that don’t fail are the way to go.
I am glad you noticed, cause I did too in editing, and then fixed it 😁
I really like the cage nut tool, when I don't do a lot of installs. It makes it super easy, and it is a very simple tool. It only has a spring.
On the ventilation note If you do ever plan to lab with big rack mount servers exhausting will be a huge issue. I have an open rack backed into a closet with about a foot behind it and lots of open air to the side, with one server (Dell R720xd) it gets VERY hot because there is not enough room for the hot exhaust to go anywhere. With almost no space behind your rack and the only escape being up and hope it diffuses through that front 1U vent i would look into at the least the top being 2U space with a few fans pulling air out.
That is good advice. Thanks for sharing. I am considering putting a fan in the ceiling above it as well, which will exhaust hot air into the roof space. I do that for my other 6U rack that is in a cupboard. The 2U space at the top might be a good idea too.
Definitly watch the temp in that area. It is not full but you have minimal airflow from the back so heat will build up. Consider a top shelf or top of cage fan asemply to pull air through.
Absolutely. I am going to figure out an automation system for temp control, using fans and sensors.
You should install the bottom screw first, then it's easy to install the top cage screw and you don't need to keep support the device with other hand
Ah, good point. I didn't think of that.
I have a cabinet half that size. I have 4 1U servers and 4 1U switches and 2 APC UPS and still have heaps of room. One thing I did was to have enough cable hanging down the back of the cabinet so I can pull the cabinet out from the wall as sometimes I need to get to the back of the cabinet for wiring. Looks like you cannot do that? Also mine is not a deep cabinet. I have a fan on it and use home automation to turn it on and off as the UPS has an ambient temperature sensor I can use.
Very nice. Those are all things I want to do. The slack cable is tricky, as some of the CAT6 was put in with not enough length to do that. That was a long time ago so probably time to fix it.
I am definitely going to add HA setup for cooling too.
@@LarsKlintTech How is the cooling fan going? Mine is working overtime here today. 38C outside!
@@ubeaut Cooling fan? 😂
Hi Lars, remove the double adapter and put in double gpo’s. Cheers Nigel
Thanks Nigel for the tip. Electrical work is on the cards, both to add the power point, but also get a fan installed above the rack.
Maybe you could add a streamdeck studio. Could show stats and maybe work as home assistant buttons. I’m thinking about trying that out
Oooh, I would love to do that. Not sure I _need_ it, but...wait, I definitely need it 😁
For a second, I was like, "Whoah, that's expensive," but then I realized you're not in the US. I use the Sysracks 42U and it was less than $900 USD.
It is definitely a premium rack, but I don't have much to compare to either. As always, get what works for you 🙂
Nice Rack! I have always wanted to say that
😏
As you have much space left, I can recommend the DAP 2HE rack panel for any kinds of small thinks like esp32, RPi, USB power and so on. You can easily find modules to print for that online.
Btw: What does your family say to such a rack in the kitchen!?
Thanks for the tip. I do want something like that too, so that might work.
The rack isn't in our house, it is my office on the farm, which is a separate building.
That's the worlds most over engineered cage nut tool. I've use a small vice grip for ~30 years. The best "uni-tasker" is something that looks like a fingernail clipper without the cutting bits.
I guess it isn't for you 🤷♂️
lots and lots of more and more Lama Cams
Definitely 🦙🦙🦙🦙🦙🦙🦙🦙🦙
I probably would have ordered the large rack. You will probably outgrow this one pretty quickly. Just kidding, have fun with it. You're off to a good stsrt withcthe new build.
😂😂😂 I know, right!!
They make cable combs that will help you organize your cat6 while you’re velcroing them or zip-tying them.
Also, where’s your gateway? Do you use a UDM or a CloudKey?
Is that what they are called? Got it. I had seen pros use those, but didn't know where to get them.
The UDM SE is in another building where the Starlink is.
What you want is a flat-pack rack that comes in peices & can get assembled where you want to put it.
Erhmmm, no? I am very happy this was assembled, despite it being a bit difficult to move.
@@LarsKlintTech OK. most people would. Flat pack is much easier especially if you need to move it across hardwood floors, stairs, etc. Flat pack is pretty much the same as a fully assembled rack, just much easier to move,
@@guytech7310 Your opinion isn't necessarily "most people". And in this case I beg to differ that it isn't the same at all. It would have taken hours to assemble, and some of the panels are so accurately put together, you might mess it up yourself. I am all for flat pack for some things, but this isn't one.
i would move all switches to rear of rack so front looks cleaner less cable mess
But I like seeing all the switches, blinking lights, and neatly ordered cables. 🤓
Lars - "Ok, now just hold the really heavy rack where it is while I quickly change the camera angle for a great montage" 😂😂
That isn't completely wrong. I make no excuses. The people want it, Simon!!
18:20 - RACK STUDS!!!! You'll never go back
Hahaha, you're not the first to mention it. 😂
“On the couch” he says….😂
As already stated, that wire is a grounding wire. You can use it to bond items in your rack to the ground, such as patch panels for shielded cable or devices that require a separate ground. You can bond this to an earth rod-just a copper stake (normally 1.2m tall when you purchase) driven into the earth and the wire joined on. You could always run the cable through your wall and down one of your deck posts if you cannot get under the floor. In terms of power, a standard GPO has 2400 watts or 10 amps available. You should be careful that the circuit breaker controlling this circuit only has so many amps available (normally 16 or 20 amps), and considering you may have other things on this circuit, you do not want to overload it. It may be worth getting a separate circuit run for your rack. I'd say that when organising the devices in your rack, your method seems pretty sound. Everyone has their own way.
I am totally getting rack jealousy from yours, I started about 12 months ago on a home networking project (a sizeable undertaking..., building a full-on network cupboard now!!) and bought a 12RU rack to start. Turned out too small, so I moved to 27RU and guess what. It's too small again 🤣, already filled it up and need more room! It may be time for a 42 or 48RU! Anyway, have fun with your new rack, Lars!
Thanks so much for the feedback. The earthing is all new to me, but super important. I will get on to that.
When (not if) I get more devices into the rack I will consider getting a sparky to fix the power supply properly.
Also, the correct size of a network rack is n+1 😂
Thanks mate. Keep the comments coming.
I would suggest leaving the back door off so the power Is accessible
Yes, you aren't the first to suggest that. When I extend the cabling so I can roll the rack out, I'll take it off.
When I saw the video title I did not imagine you'd get a rack that big 🤣, that'll keep you busy for a little while filling it up, right?
Go big or go home? Yeah, it is all part of the long term plan to get more redundancy and faster farm LAN.
@LarsKlintTech when you walked behind/into it I was expecting a TARDIS like comment or effect
@@Stephen-Jones Would have been perfect, but I've never watched it (I don't watch TV).
@27:36 ... I'm one 🤣🤩
You’re in Australia - are you even allowed to run and terminate your own cables???
great job . look very clean :) , BTW the Cage Nut Tool not support the Unifi Nut
Thanks mate.
Turns out it works just fine with a UniFi cage nut. That's what they all are for the UniFi devices 🤷♂️
Plenty of space for the inevitable 10GB upgrade coming soon!
Exactly!! 10GB upgrade is slowly happening, and this was indeed part of the plan.
Check out rack studs instead of cage nuts. Might be another alternative for you.
Are those the square flat ones with the thread in the middle?
@@LarsKlintTech I think we are talking about the same ones. Square washer and threaded center post that takes the nut.
@@MrHolgr That's it. Why are they better than cage nuts?
@@LarsKlintTech Rack studs have two advantages.
The first one: They clip in from the front. When adding a device in a one U slot, it's sometimes difficult to get the cage nuts into the tight space. Your handy tool is not too common, especially with unplanned maintenance.
The second one and my favourite. Its far more easy to install hardware alone, because the thread will hold onto the device when you push against it. Then easy screw in by hand. So its far less struggle without managing a screwdriver, screw and the expensive hardware all at once.
I love to use it in our datacenters!
Greets from germany
@@pascal7770 Thanks so much for that info. That is really helpful. The cage nut tool is super handy.
Wow. Common folks will ever get that in regards to the price. So what do you feel it taking up space beside your window, sticking out? Nice work! Lars.
If you want something bad enough, you find a way. I am nothing special, just working hard to deliver quality content I enjoy making. Companies see value in that and support the channel. You could do it too 🙂
@LarsKlintTech i dont have the room for it 😜 Keep up the good work.
Nice one
I was prepared to mention the cables but nah.😂 Anyway, I miss your UDM SE where did you hide it?
Great video Lars, as usual
I would be disappointed if you didn't 😂
The UDM SE is in the other 6U rack in the house close to the Starlink. It's complicated.
Awesome,
Sweet
7:10 it is indeed a ground wire :D
Thank you! I was genuinely confused what it was 😂
NFW that’ll pass the PAT (partner accepted test) in the home.
That's why it is in my office.
@@LarsKlintTechalso the rear door is serving no purpose so remove it. And rack bottom up with heavy (UPS, Storage) and heat down low and cables up high.
Dude, with a 19" Open Wall Mount Rack 15U from StarTech would have been the better solution in your case. Now you have such a huge block in the room. 😅
How do you know what I like though, and what the plans are? I am already using 16U on what I have now, so 15U would already be full then. I don't look at it from where I sit, and it isn't in the main house. I think it will work really well.
I don't think it's big enought Lars. :)
I was hoping someone would say that 😏
What... no RGB lights ?? LOL
Gotta leave something for the next video 😉
@PhillHills lol i keep my 25ru in my lounge room. Going to have vaporwave rgb lights on the inside of the rack.
Plan on fixing up my first ever p.c I built into a modded sleeper display build unraid server.
Man! the cables are messy 😜
They used to be a lot worse 🙄
@@LarsKlintTech Just thought of posting the comment regarding the messy cables after you said for us not to post comment about it knowing fully that we (or at least me) will.
Love your videos buddy.
Keep them coming
@hamdicarlo haha, I kinda invited that didn't I?
Please tell me you didn’t spend $5k on a rack…..
I didn't. As I mention several times, the rack was provided by Rack Solutions for review.
@@LarsKlintTechI guess I should have kept watching lol. Love your vids !
@@timgraham2942 Thanks mate. Keep the comments coming too.
Just like other comments ups at the bottom then bigger or or deeper servers like 4u etc.. then smaller lighter server toward middle then the networking routers switches etc fyi RackStuds Are better
Makes a lot of sense. What I have isn't too heavy, apart from the NAS. UPS is coming next I hope, so that will go at the bottom. Then probably a backup power supply.
A little overkill for 2 pieces of rack gear . No? 😂
It's 3, thank you very much 😂
Gotta have room to expand, right?
@ oh my bad. 3……. 😬😬
That is not a good place for such a nice rack. You cant reach the back or side panels. :(
But if its free i guess you don‘t have to care.
Oh, I do care. It is on castors, so when I get the cabling sorted (extended) I will be able to use the sides and back.
Placement is where it makes sense in the current setup.
I just know that is not a home server in a kitchen. 🤦🏾♂️
It's in my office where there is a kitchenette. It is well ventilated, doesn't bother anyone, fits perfectly in that nook, and is close to where a lot of existing wiring is. Where would you have put it then?
@@LarsKlintTechGranted I am aware that you are aware but this goes WAY BEYOND everything Holy and Sacred about IT technology. My biggest fear is MOISTURE. I apologize if I am in a panic but although it’s very beautiful, but my OCD is kicked in high gear. I have been doing stuff like this nearly middle school (Y2k), so I have a bit of passion for this sort of thing, not to mention a BS In Cybersecurity. But back to your rack, airflow is key for performance but that goes hand in hand with dryness and temperature as a maintained 55° is an ancient rule of thumb. Cool air should flow from the bottom to the top. 😮💨 Yeah it’s the moisture from me. Maybe the living room and build into your server rack a home theater setup with various amps and tuners and such.
@@kid_rajah I still think you are mixing up professional enterprise installs with amateur setups driven by curiosity and passion. To your point I am installing a fan above the rack, which does indeed push air from top to bottom. If it gets particularly hot in that room, I am installing an automation that will turn on the air con, located on the opposite wall in a not very large room.
Moisture is very unlikely to be an issue in this case, but I appreciate your concern. The kitchen is not used for anything other than making a cup of tea. Rural Victoria in Australia is also very very dry, and I have never had any issues with moisture on all of my outdoor and indoor IoT devices. Airflow will definitely ensure that too. I'd probably go for a lot lower than 55C too 😛
The living room is a pretty big no no for most homes I would have thought. Anything flashing lights and with fans going is usually not what you'd want where you relax with the family. This current spot is sort of what you describe anyway.
Thanks for your feedback. I really appreciate it.
@oh geeze Australia 😬. Nah you got it champ. You may as well get a gun turret to your setup and forget everything I said for those huge bugs native to Australia. Nope im minding my business in the states. RIP Steve Erwin but oh no my friend… Australia? Na, cute woman there but I will hard pass.
@kid_rajah 😂😂
Keep the comments coming mate. Love hearing other perspectives.
It's not very pretty cables.
😂