Brandon, thanks for this series of videos; I've had an '81 15 hp sitting in boxes in my basement for 3+ years. Honed the cylinders, put in new rings etc. as per your guidance. Not finished yet but hey -12 F here this morning with 3-4 feet of ice on the river so no big rush. I have done a few rebuilds on Rotax Ski Doo engines, a lot less complicated. Couldn't have done the outboard work without these details.
I really like how that second motor just appeared, BOOM! Great videos, you certainly have helped me get my boat out and staying on the water. Thank you
My mechanic would have charged $70.00 an hour plus marked up parts. A marina charges $100.00 an hour. $4000.00 a month for doing what you love. Go for it. You make your money in the summer for the whole year. It doesn't get any better than this believe me.
Thank you very much for your excellent videos from Spain. It seems that the red piece next to the steering wheel (0391105 - Starter Pawl & Spring) has been removed. It's not necessary?
Mate what can I say. I just tonight pulled the power head off same engine the exhaust leg was filled, is filled with liquid. I take it it shouldn't be? But will be using your videos as a guide to try get mine going. Question, well the above about exhaust leg, and did your water pump have a seal between the metal plate and plastic cover or just the 4 bolts? My doesn't I just put new kit in. But have seen the Johnson ones do. Like to know if urs did. Seems the tell tail water is an issue on these motors. I don't have the nipple on the end of hose do you think that matters just have the hose hang out or do u think I should get the nipple? Thanks great series couldn't be better timing to find it.
great video and nice job! i have played with these same motors this summer, i think these motors are so old and not worth any major repairs anymore. even if you do full job like you did, its not worth over 350usd here... but as hobby it is great because these are so easy to fix.
Nope. I see them over a grand after being rebuilt. And why not? Once rebuilt you have a great motor. Ive got an 85' johnson 15 tbat im getting ready to do a ring job(hopefully thats all). These vids will be my bible.
I'm working on a 1982 15 Johnson now. Project motor bought for $100. Got her running but after a couple minutes of great idle, the bottom cylinder gets fouled with water. Time to pull the Power Head (which I've never done) to check the head and PH surfaces and see where the water is coming from. Other than this, I believe it's ready to go.
My thoughts too but I've already replaced the Head gasket, although I did it with the PH still in the cowling. And, I didn't check the surfaces when I did it so - I think best to pull the PH so I can also check the water grommet at the bottom of the PH. Agreed?
Brandon, I have a 1956 Johnson 15hp (FD10), do you have any videos on maybe overhauling one of these? I bought it used in 1974...it suddenly lost power a couple years ago, it had 98psi on each cylinder, now 60 psi, head gasket looks good. Reed valves? I can't picture both cylinders losing that much compression just running down the lake. Any ideas would be a big help.
I took off my lower unit on my 1979 Johnson 15hp and whole changing the water pump impeller the drive shaft came out of the lower head. Now I cannot seem to install the shaft back without the “ nut “ on the shaft going any further down. It won’t allow for the new plate to sit flush on the head. Any ideas what happened ???? I would rest appreciate if you can help. Thanks
Raise the water level in your tank to make sure you don't suck air and damage your new pump. Looks like someone cut that water tube at some point, which is why the end of the tube was sharp and not beveled. The water tube has some specific bends in it and must be oriented correctly during powerhead installation, or the tube will not be aiming in the right direction down by the pump.. Yeah, those overboard pump indicator nipples plug easily! That screw you were messing with on the throttle roller is for setting the ignition cam pick up synchronization, and it must be set properly, this is not used as an idle speed control. The carb butterfly must be completely closed at idle, or the engine will run lean. What oil mix are you using, didn't see any smoke at all...I would mix 24:1 to break in your fresh rebuild, don't want to see something happen to all your work. Looks and sounds nice!
Hey! Just taking some know how. From someone who knows about outboard motors. Looking to getinto as a hobby. Since taking up retirement. Thanks for your advice. Keep up the good work. David P.D. Also looking to get a boat. Of course nothing fancy. Just to do some fishing.Thanks a million. 10-06-20
I like your channel. I've been tinkering with an 83' 15 for a year. My elbow is happy after adding the electric start which I highly recommend to everyone. Can you convert the geared throttle to a cable type of some sort? I hate the twist and would love to add a bicycle gear selector as a throttle. Thought?
My problem is my fingers blister from the starter rope handle. I get about 4 pulls from an outboard before I feel burning between my fingers. You probably could rig up a thumb throttle, if you use the throttle shaft from say a 1990's engine. Saftey would be a little concern, and if you get thrown over, you'll be at full throttle. At least with the tiller it'll vibrate itself to slow.
Brandon's Garage I've ditched that idea after cleaning and greasing all the moving parts real good. You got any tricks on the bolt for the tiller arm itself? Every engine I have that bolt strips trying to install or remove them.
Rally great videos, completely on topic, i'm really grateful/lucky you've gone to the trouble! If you don't mind me asking, do you know what the thread size is on the three flywheel puller bolt holes? . ' . just hacking together a puller and digging around for fasteners. rgds. Edit, found it, 1/4 UNC.
These motors had an issue with the top water tube grommet under power head. Salt would swell rubber grommet shut overheating motor in salt water usage. I worked at a OMC dealer did dozens under warranty. Rule is your should always be able to put your hand on power head or exhaust plate should be maximum 160° F . If hot no water.
All this work and it does not idle well? Did you ever figure out why? My guess is the ignition timing is wrong because of mish mash of armature, ignition parts and flywheel.
What did parts cost to do everything to this motor. I recently purchased a 15hp evinrude and want to go through it like this but don’t want to put more money than it’s worth into it. Thanks in advance!
I have a 1975 15 hp pull start new water pump enstalled correctly where does the water stream come out at It mists or sprays out the exhaust or were there is no other place I can find
this year (2nd year) of the series doesnt have a telltale. I don't think those came into existence until 1977 when they switched to the better CD ignition. just watch to see how much water is spitting out the exhaust and if it overheats or not... anything over 165 degrees is getting warm
I just finished a carb rebuild, fuel pump and lines, water pump, points, and it would refuse to idle. I took it out for a bit and did some mid/high-rpm running and it quit on me completely. When I got it back to the house it would not kick for anything. I am in the process of investigating why, and it seems the points "timing" is off. The timing mark is past the mark on the mag plate, and both points have "lost gap". I know you have mag/cdi, but I would love to find out what is causing your idle problem. I read on a site (leeroys ramblings if I remember right) there is an open AND close adjustment point for the carb float, I will check this too. Could it be something in the new needle/seat or low speed passage causing the idle? Or timing? I'll stay tuned to see what you figure out.
Well, the other engine runs absolutely perfectly. Plan is to swap the carbs, and see if problem stays. Then flywheel, then mag plate, then spark plugs, then fuel pump. I'll figure out the problem soon enough!
Found a tiny screen and valve inside the reed plate that was clogged. I'm thinking this could have something to do with my issue. This being said, I really don't want to buy a new reed plate if the screen is trashed. Is this a valve of sorts too?
Brandon's Garage Okay. I was having a problem getting mine to idle. I recently replaced the powerhead. I could hardly get it to slow down enough to shift. Tried everything. New plugs, adjusting the float, cleaning the carburetor again, a sea foam treatment....The only thing that seemed to work was screwing in the idle speed knob as far as it could go and then backing it off a little at a time. It's working much better now. I'm hoping that it improves even more when I adjust the low speed setting on a slow troll on the water. I've been watching your channel to see if you come up with something I haven't tried. Just got mine to idle yesterday.
good evening, what is a small change to make on my evinrude 15xp 89 'to make it run more? forgive my ignorance, can it be the plates of the collector or the control unit?
You really just have to screw with the idle knob on the side and the air/fuel mixture knob on the front. It doesn't take forever, but it would if I were filming.
Really big thank you for taking the time and effort to share it!
Hey great series. I am going to rebuild my 84 8hp Seahorse and this was just what i needed to understand the process.
Excellent video series man keep em coming. Love the old evinrude/Johnson motors
Brandon, thanks for this series of videos; I've had an '81 15 hp sitting in boxes in my basement for 3+ years. Honed the cylinders, put in new rings etc. as per your guidance. Not finished yet but hey -12 F here this morning with 3-4 feet of ice on the river so no big rush. I have done a few rebuilds on Rotax Ski Doo engines, a lot less complicated. Couldn't have done the outboard work without these details.
I have three 15HP JOHNSON engines,2003,98,97 THANK You SOOOOO much for these videos.It has helped Alot!(subscribed)!
I really like how that second motor just appeared, BOOM! Great videos, you certainly have helped me get my boat out and staying on the water. Thank you
See, I thought that was funny too!
No other comments though...
Your videos are very helpful for DYIer thanks so much...
Watched the whole series, it was awesome!
All of them?
That's a lot of videos.
I dont even remember making half of them.
Good job!
My mechanic would have charged $70.00 an hour plus marked up parts. A marina charges $100.00 an hour. $4000.00 a month for doing what you love. Go for it. You make your money in the summer for the whole year. It doesn't get any better than this believe me.
good job 👏
Its the fuel line you need to let it run for 2 min so the vacuüm can build up in the hose
Thank you very much for your excellent videos from Spain.
It seems that the red piece next to the steering wheel (0391105 - Starter Pawl & Spring) has been removed.
It's not necessary?
nice thankyou
Mate what can I say. I just tonight pulled the power head off same engine the exhaust leg was filled, is filled with liquid. I take it it shouldn't be?
But will be using your videos as a guide to try get mine going. Question, well the above about exhaust leg, and did your water pump have a seal between the metal plate and plastic cover or just the 4 bolts? My doesn't I just put new kit in. But have seen the Johnson ones do. Like to know if urs did. Seems the tell tail water is an issue on these motors. I don't have the nipple on the end of hose do you think that matters just have the hose hang out or do u think I should get the nipple?
Thanks great series couldn't be better timing to find it.
you mentioned it was 90 psi before you started was was it after the rebuild
great video and nice job! i have played with these same motors this summer, i think these motors are so old and not worth any major repairs anymore.
even if you do full job like you did, its not worth over 350usd here... but as hobby it is great because these are so easy to fix.
Nope. I see them over a grand after being rebuilt. And why not? Once rebuilt you have a great motor. Ive got an 85' johnson 15 tbat im getting ready to do a ring job(hopefully thats all). These vids will be my bible.
After the rebuild, what was your compression?
Where did you get the starter and bracket for that motor. What did it come off of.
I'm working on a 1982 15 Johnson now. Project motor bought for $100. Got her running but after a couple minutes of great idle, the bottom cylinder gets fouled with water. Time to pull the Power Head (which I've never done) to check the head and PH surfaces and see where the water is coming from. Other than this, I believe it's ready to go.
Probably the head gasket
My thoughts too but I've already replaced the Head gasket, although I did it with the PH still in the cowling. And, I didn't check the surfaces when I did it so - I think best to pull the PH so I can also check the water grommet at the bottom of the PH. Agreed?
Brandon, I have a 1956 Johnson 15hp (FD10), do you have any videos on maybe overhauling one of these? I bought it used in 1974...it suddenly lost power a couple years ago, it had 98psi on each cylinder, now 60 psi, head gasket looks good. Reed valves? I can't picture both cylinders losing that much compression just running down the lake. Any ideas would be a big help.
I took off my lower unit on my 1979 Johnson 15hp and whole changing the water pump impeller the drive shaft came out of the lower head. Now I cannot seem to install the shaft back without the “ nut “ on the shaft going any further down. It won’t allow for the new plate to sit flush on the head. Any ideas what happened ???? I would rest appreciate if you can help. Thanks
Raise the water level in your tank to make sure you don't suck air and damage your new pump. Looks like someone cut that water tube at some point, which is why the end of the tube was sharp and not beveled. The water tube has some specific bends in it and must be oriented correctly during powerhead installation, or the tube will not be aiming in the right direction down by the pump.. Yeah, those overboard pump indicator nipples plug easily! That screw you were messing with on the throttle roller is for setting the ignition cam pick up synchronization, and it must be set properly, this is not used as an idle speed control. The carb butterfly must be completely closed at idle, or the engine will run lean. What oil mix are you using, didn't see any smoke at all...I would mix 24:1 to break in your fresh rebuild, don't want to see something happen to all your work. Looks and sounds nice!
@J yea especially when hes got plenty of water to cover those lower intakes
Hey! Just taking some know how.
From someone who knows about outboard motors. Looking to getinto as a hobby. Since taking up retirement. Thanks for your advice.
Keep up the good work. David P.D.
Also looking to get a boat. Of course
nothing fancy. Just to do some fishing.Thanks a million. 10-06-20
@J Oh well, I guess my 30 years of OMC experience, plus my years with OMC as a regional service rep don't qualify me for giving advice....
I like your channel. I've been tinkering with an 83' 15 for a year. My elbow is happy after adding the electric start which I highly recommend to everyone. Can you convert the geared throttle to a cable type of some sort? I hate the twist and would love to add a bicycle gear selector as a throttle. Thought?
My problem is my fingers blister from the starter rope handle.
I get about 4 pulls from an outboard before I feel burning between my fingers.
You probably could rig up a thumb throttle, if you use the throttle shaft from say a 1990's engine. Saftey would be a little concern, and if you get thrown over, you'll be at full throttle.
At least with the tiller it'll vibrate itself to slow.
Brandon's Garage I've ditched that idea after cleaning and greasing all the moving parts real good. You got any tricks on the bolt for the tiller arm itself? Every engine I have that bolt strips trying to install or remove them.
Mine does the same thing with water not coming out right away.. i beleive it has a thermostat
Rally great videos, completely on topic, i'm really grateful/lucky you've gone to the trouble! If you don't mind me asking, do you know what the thread size is on the three flywheel puller bolt holes? . ' . just hacking together a puller and digging around for fasteners. rgds. Edit, found it, 1/4 UNC.
Got it, 1/4 UNC.
He helped me as well
What web site to get parts for these motors I have a 1992 15 hp ervinrude
These motors had an issue with the top water tube grommet under power head. Salt would swell rubber grommet shut overheating motor in salt water usage. I worked at a OMC dealer did dozens under warranty.
Rule is your should always be able to put your hand on power head or exhaust plate should be maximum 160° F . If hot no water.
All this work and it does not idle well? Did you ever figure out why? My guess is the ignition timing is wrong because of mish mash of armature, ignition parts and flywheel.
What did parts cost to do everything to this motor. I recently purchased a 15hp evinrude and want to go through it like this but don’t want to put more money than it’s worth into it. Thanks in advance!
You will most definitely with put in more than its worth.
Got one on ebay for 60 bucks keep an eye put and eventually you'll find it cheap I ended up selling the 9.9 carb for 110 so made a profit on upgrade
I have a 1975 15 hp pull start new water pump enstalled correctly where does the water stream come out at It mists or sprays out the exhaust or were there is no other place I can find
How long is the water tube and how far does it stick down in the water pump also how do you get the tube out
this year (2nd year) of the series doesnt have a telltale. I don't think those came into existence until 1977 when they switched to the better CD ignition. just watch to see how much water is spitting out the exhaust and if it overheats or not... anything over 165 degrees is getting warm
Do you have a vid for converting a 9.5 to electric start?. Thanks
No. cant happen.
Never designed to be electric start.
I just finished a carb rebuild, fuel pump and lines, water pump, points, and it would refuse to idle. I took it out for a bit and did some mid/high-rpm running and it quit on me completely. When I got it back to the house it would not kick for anything. I am in the process of investigating why, and it seems the points "timing" is off. The timing mark is past the mark on the mag plate, and both points have "lost gap". I know you have mag/cdi, but I would love to find out what is causing your idle problem. I read on a site (leeroys ramblings if I remember right) there is an open AND close adjustment point for the carb float, I will check this too. Could it be something in the new needle/seat or low speed passage causing the idle? Or timing? I'll stay tuned to see what you figure out.
Well, the other engine runs absolutely perfectly.
Plan is to swap the carbs, and see if problem stays.
Then flywheel, then mag plate, then spark plugs, then fuel pump.
I'll figure out the problem soon enough!
Found a tiny screen and valve inside the reed plate that was clogged. I'm thinking this could have something to do with my issue. This being said, I really don't want to buy a new reed plate if the screen is trashed. Is this a valve of sorts too?
No, because I cleaned mine, and we have a similar running condition.
I ordered a float gauge tool. Hopefully its just the float.
How do you adjust the high speed on this carb ?
Its fixed, so you don't.
Those old boys never Idle well.
Did you find a solution for the idle problem you were having with this motor?
No, Ive swapped everything. I think its a problem with the water pickup tube.
I'll explain soon in a new video.
Brandon's Garage Okay. I was having a problem getting mine to idle. I recently replaced the powerhead. I could hardly get it to slow down enough to shift. Tried everything. New plugs, adjusting the float, cleaning the carburetor again, a sea foam treatment....The only thing that seemed to work was screwing in the idle speed knob as far as it could go and then backing it off a little at a time. It's working much better now. I'm hoping that it improves even more when I adjust the low speed setting on a slow troll on the water. I've been watching your channel to see if you come up with something I haven't tried. Just got mine to idle yesterday.
Need to time the carb
good evening, what is a small change to make on my evinrude 15xp 89 'to make it run more? forgive my ignorance, can it be the plates of the collector or the control unit?
you want more power out of it?
@@BrandonsGarage I wanted to know if there was something that sent him faster or if there isn't .
@@BrandonsGarage ?
Mines idling the same way you ever figure the problem out?
You really just have to screw with the idle knob on the side and the air/fuel mixture knob on the front.
It doesn't take forever, but it would if I were filming.
Sorry. Flywheel.