Having had a couple of miserable days, I must say how much I am enjoying your videos on this 16. You really are very fortunate to own one of these wonderful cars. I look forward to the next video.
With these engines you can flatten the base of the oil pump on a surface plate with some wet & dry. That will remove the scoring . . presuming the pump is otherwise within spec. Remember too that the pump rotor and annulus come as a matched set.
Thank you for doing this videos. I also have problems with the oil pressure. I have a R16 TS from 1972. I just recently started to work on the problem witch was discovered in May 2018. The car has just stood there for almost 7 years. Then your videos appear when I decided to solve the problem. What a coincident. I´m really looking forward to coming videos. If it wasn´t for the distance, I live in the south of Sweden, I would gladly have come to your garage to help and learn. Keep up the good work.
It's structurally a very fine engine (LJK Setright) and in the Europa (6500 rpn) & Alpine could rev. Standard models had a 6K red line - not shabby at all for the era.
Absolutely, a very robust unit in these. Up until 200 yards before we turned it off, it was a little sewing machine. As you can tell from the original 16 video I was taking it very easy and low revving on the engine, and had been consistently. I'm glad I did!
I owned a 1971 R16 that we had bought used, it was both my wife's and my favorite car ever. We have a friend who back in the mid 1970s who had a1969 model. He was doing some fairly long commutes for a temporary job and the gasket on the timing chain cover failed and the oil escaped fairly quickly. I helped him repair it and he drove it for many more years until he was rear ended in a snowstorm in Tampa Florida - it was so novel to the Floridians that the driver behind him was looking up into the sky and not the road. As for the bearings, I totally agree with your choice! Looking forward to the next one!
I'm loving hearing all these memories! Thank you for sharing. I never expected the 16 to have so much appeal, but I'm all about it. More in the pipeline don't worry, and thank you for your support.
Another great video, so nice to see somebody working on these Renault engines, it is a rare sight to see in the UK, I would totally agree with you fit a set of shells before pulling the whole thing apart, once you get all that sludge flushed out and get some good oil in there it will probably last for years, if the oil pressure stays near what it should be it can't be too bad, by the way I am restoring a 1972 Renault 17TS at the moment with the same type of engine (1565cc injection) looking forward to your next video.
Thank you, I appreciate the support. Best of luck in the restoration of your 17, such a rare car I imagine that's a real struggle to get bits for. I'm assuming you've got similar connections for parts, like Duncan, Salv and Brian?
Thanks Alan, both myself and Paul (the hairy one in the other videos) are just two pure petrolheads who want to share our adventures authentically. Pleased you're enjoying it.
My first 16TS - I've owned three - was a '73 model which, under Australian content law, had the Jaeger instrumentation replaced by locally-sourced VDO clocks. By some weird logic, the oil pressure and water temperature light were on the same relay switch. A friend who borrowed the car for a Melbourne-Sydney round trip - for the comfort factor - erroneously added more oil when he should have checked the coolant level [they were one of the first Renaults with a sealed cooling system] Needless to say, he returned the car with a blown head gasket and no recompense. Regardless, I moved onto 300,000 kilometers with the next two '75's.
How lucky are you! I reckon that the viscosity of that 'oil ' probably helped protect everything when you lost pressure. You can get a really good result polishing a crank with wd40 and emery cloth or wet and dry paper. I managed to get my crank back to near perfect and it had lots of picked up bearing material on it. The sections on the crank you mentioned are the journals. Unfortunately for me two ended up being just a bit too much out of spec. Can I ask what the people you spoke to thought about potential oil pressure loss on your worn journal? (Not a criticism, I'm just trying to gather opinions/experiences from others for my own learning) I have a spare engine that might benefit from what you're doing to yours.. I for one am enjoying the content. Keep it coming! Oil changes... the cheapest insurance there is...
I am certainly lucky and know it! Yes I will absolutely be doing the wet n dry and a shoelace trick, it's got me out of a few situation in the past with great success. Particularly on my three bearing crank 100e. Spoke to three people very highly regarded in the Renault world, all three of them said looking at the wear they would say "Sure it's not going to be like new, but it will be serviceable. Try a thicker oil." in a nutshell. Which is exactly what I thought. Looking at the workshop manual there's a reasonable tolerance given. As part of the rebuild an oil pressure gauge will be fitted to keep an eye on it all.
I removed the engine in my Renault 16TS in the 1970's to replace the timing chain gasket, which took me a full weekend. It took about 20 minutes to remove the old gasket clean the faces and put on the new one. I miss the comfort and versatility of the 16TS and the superb ride. The ride in a modern car is terrible.
It's amazing what you could achieve in a short space of time with these. I'm very very fortunate to have a 4 post ramp, which makes things easier. But I often find nothing beats the determination of having an engine in bits on your mums driveway knowing you've got to drive it to work tomorrow morning!
Conventional oil was used in the engine,,With absolutely no add pack,,No cleaning solution,,This is why no one should use conventional oil in any car,,Run a good quality full syn oil through the engine,,Change it 3 or 4 times over 500 miles,,And change the oil filter each time,,It will clean out all the crap and rejuvenate all the seals ,The valve stem seals,,
Really enjoying your story with this lovely car. Looking forward to seeing it back together and running again 😊
Having had a couple of miserable days, I must say how much I am enjoying your videos on this 16. You really are very fortunate to own one of these wonderful cars. I look forward to the next video.
With these engines you can flatten the base of the oil pump on a surface plate with some wet & dry. That will remove the scoring . . presuming the pump is otherwise within spec.
Remember too that the pump rotor and annulus come as a matched set.
Thank you for doing this videos. I also have problems with the oil pressure. I have a R16 TS from 1972. I just recently started to work on the problem witch was discovered in May 2018. The car has just stood there for almost 7 years. Then your videos appear when I decided to solve the problem. What a coincident. I´m really looking forward to coming videos. If it wasn´t for the distance, I live in the south of Sweden, I would gladly have come to your garage to help and learn. Keep up the good work.
It's structurally a very fine engine (LJK Setright) and in the Europa (6500 rpn) & Alpine could rev. Standard models had a 6K red line - not shabby at all for the era.
Absolutely, a very robust unit in these. Up until 200 yards before we turned it off, it was a little sewing machine.
As you can tell from the original 16 video I was taking it very easy and low revving on the engine, and had been consistently. I'm glad I did!
I owned a 1971 R16 that we had bought used, it was both my wife's and my favorite car ever. We have a friend who back in the mid 1970s who had a1969 model. He was doing some fairly long commutes for a temporary job and the gasket on the timing chain cover failed and the oil escaped fairly quickly. I helped him repair it and he drove it for many more years until he was rear ended in a snowstorm in Tampa Florida - it was so novel to the Floridians that the driver behind him was looking up into the sky and not the road. As for the bearings, I totally agree with your choice! Looking forward to the next one!
I'm loving hearing all these memories! Thank you for sharing.
I never expected the 16 to have so much appeal, but I'm all about it. More in the pipeline don't worry, and thank you for your support.
Excellent video, really enjoyed it. Sorry to see the issues with the R16 but it looks to be in safe hands.
Another great video, so nice to see somebody working on these Renault engines, it is a rare sight to see in the UK, I would totally agree with you fit a set of shells before pulling the whole thing apart, once you get all that sludge flushed out and get some good oil in there it will probably last for years, if the oil pressure stays near what it should be it can't be too bad, by the way I am restoring a 1972 Renault 17TS at the moment with the same type of engine (1565cc injection) looking forward to your next video.
Thank you, I appreciate the support. Best of luck in the restoration of your 17, such a rare car I imagine that's a real struggle to get bits for. I'm assuming you've got similar connections for parts, like Duncan, Salv and Brian?
Pleased I found this channel, It's just a nice easy watch! Thanks.
Thanks Alan, both myself and Paul (the hairy one in the other videos) are just two pure petrolheads who want to share our adventures authentically. Pleased you're enjoying it.
My first 16TS - I've owned three - was a '73 model which, under Australian content law, had the Jaeger instrumentation replaced by locally-sourced VDO clocks. By some weird logic, the oil pressure and water temperature light were on the same relay switch. A friend who borrowed the car for a Melbourne-Sydney round trip - for the comfort factor - erroneously added more oil when he should have checked the coolant level [they were one of the first Renaults with a sealed cooling system] Needless to say, he returned the car with a blown head gasket and no recompense. Regardless, I moved onto 300,000 kilometers with the next two '75's.
How lucky are you! I reckon that the viscosity of that 'oil ' probably helped protect everything when you lost pressure. You can get a really good result polishing a crank with wd40 and emery cloth or wet and dry paper. I managed to get my crank back to near perfect and it had lots of picked up bearing material on it. The sections on the crank you mentioned are the journals. Unfortunately for me two ended up being just a bit too much out of spec. Can I ask what the people you spoke to thought about potential oil pressure loss on your worn journal? (Not a criticism, I'm just trying to gather opinions/experiences from others for my own learning) I have a spare engine that might benefit from what you're doing to yours.. I for one am enjoying the content. Keep it coming!
Oil changes... the cheapest insurance there is...
I am certainly lucky and know it! Yes I will absolutely be doing the wet n dry and a shoelace trick, it's got me out of a few situation in the past with great success. Particularly on my three bearing crank 100e.
Spoke to three people very highly regarded in the Renault world, all three of them said looking at the wear they would say "Sure it's not going to be like new, but it will be serviceable. Try a thicker oil." in a nutshell. Which is exactly what I thought. Looking at the workshop manual there's a reasonable tolerance given. As part of the rebuild an oil pressure gauge will be fitted to keep an eye on it all.
Looks cold in that garage!
Great stuff. Is she solid around the rear torsion bar mounts? That is a vulnerable point - fingers crossed yours is fine - if so keep the area clean
I removed the engine in my Renault 16TS in the 1970's to replace the timing chain gasket, which took me a full weekend. It took about 20 minutes to remove the old gasket clean the faces and put on the new one. I miss the comfort and versatility of the 16TS and the superb ride. The ride in a modern car is terrible.
It's amazing what you could achieve in a short space of time with these. I'm very very fortunate to have a 4 post ramp, which makes things easier. But I often find nothing beats the determination of having an engine in bits on your mums driveway knowing you've got to drive it to work tomorrow morning!
Conventional oil was used in the engine,,With absolutely no add pack,,No cleaning solution,,This is why no one should use conventional oil in any car,,Run a good quality full syn oil through the engine,,Change it 3 or 4 times over 500 miles,,And change the oil filter each time,,It will clean out all the crap and rejuvenate all the seals ,The valve stem seals,,