What a great piece of kit ! who dosent like unboxing a new tool especially if it's quite pricey and you've been saving up your pocket money ! looking forward to chips :)....cheers.
Yes, I really like it so far. As far as the "pocket money" goes ... I lived for more than two years now very frugal (business being slow because of the virus of unknow origin and such), but now I had two good quarters and it was time to reward myself. Anyway, a few weeks from now I'll try to turn some POM and aluminum stock on that thing. Hopefully I still like it afterwards.
@@mumbaiverve2307 Well, the 4th and the 1st quarter of a calendar year are usually a bit slow (with Christmas and New Year in between). But that means I have more time for my projects 🙂
Anyone considering buying a Proxxon machine should consider watching Michel Uphoff's series of video's on his lathe & mini mill & their design flaws, yes, series of videos!!! I'm assuming this is just a smaller version of his PD 400 & may have similar. He does suffer from the usual, "I can't criticise something I paid a lot of money for" while fixing all the issues
@@ronpalmer1371 I think he's talking about this Michael Uphoff: www.youtube.com/@Michel-Uphoff . And that would be Michael Uphoff's frist video about the PD 400: ruclips.net/video/YLT5xU0PeqM/видео.htmlsi=cgKfRHf2Jlp9v25g .
Thanks for the info! And yes, the Proxxon PD 250/E as well as the Proxxon BFB 2000 / KT 150 / BFW 40/E milling setup do have their flaws (that's the ones I have). But at least for the PD 250/E I can attest that it was usable out of the box. Something that can't be said for many of the Chinese made small lathes. Besides, in my case I needed a very small (that is light) lathe that I can lug around without breaking my back 😅
Oh lord, it's from Howell Michigan. Didn't think anything good happened down that road, that town has a rather poor reputation, hah. Thanks for the review! Was really curious about these machines.
Yeah, and I bought it because I was under the impression it was made in Germany. Anyway, could have been worse for me as a European, e.g. the whole thing could have been based on the Imperial system 😅 Anyway, it's the smallest lathe with a lead screw I know of (the even smaller PD 150/E doesn't have one).
@@dakel20 Yeah, I got that 😉 I was just joking 😅. One of the main reasons I got that lathe was that it is made in Germany. I wanted something that worked out of the box and not another project, like getting a Chinese mini lathe to work properly.
After watching your video , I decided to get a second hand one . Unfortunately there is no users manual . Would it be possible for you to show the whole gear cutting page ? It would be very useful
Nice new toy 🤚 , just curious about the speed control , is it a DC motor ? Would be nice to check if it has good torque at low speeds to do turn threads in ferrous metals. Am a huge fan boy of German machine tools , used to work with a lot of German machinery in my "childhood" in the early 90's till early 2k. Maho, BoKo , Trumpf, Guhring , Injection molding machines from MDKT.
Yes, according to PROXXON it's a DC motor and the electronic speed control uses full waves. So I guess there's full-wave rectifier, followed by a SCR switched at zero-crossing (PROXXON for sure loves SCRs). So at the core it's probably a brushed 230V DC motor. I actually learned turning on such German brand name lathe (some 40 years ago). Unfortunately the small lathe market is nowadays, with the exception of PROXXON and WABECO, completely in Chinese hands. And the smallest WABECO (350mm, 1.4kW, 59kg!) is about 2.500€.
My knowledge of lathes is next to nothing! I believe the Proxxon DB 250 can be used for turning wooden ship model yards and masts. Would this Proxxon PD 250E be suitable for this use and other wood tuning projects. Would it be a better option even though more expensive.
Well, since I don't know anything about wood turning, I'm not really qualified to answer your question. Anyway, the Proxxon PD 250/E is definitely not intended for wood turning, it's made for metals (and plastics). That said, I don't see any reason why you couldn't, in principle, turn wood on it. However, the handling would be very different from something like a Proxxon DB 250, starting with the fact that you have a chuck on one side and not a spiky carrier (don't know how that thing is called on a woodturning lathe). And then there's of course the question of cutting tool. The Proxxon PD 250/E is designed to accept tool steels with 8mm x 8mm square shafts. I don't thing you can get wood turning tools with such shafts, so would have to make your own.
The tailstock is actually a B12 taper, that's the larger half an MT1. Overall I love my PD250/e but personally I think B12 is too small and doesn't grip the drill chuck very well. Also it's hard to get things like reams or die holders in that size (although you can cut the small end off an MT1).
Yeah, think 10mm is the limit for two-blade spiral drills for dat lil lathe, better open hole up and switch as soon as possible to single-point cutting boring bar
@@marcoam2610 That was initially the plan, but I couldn't find a boring bar that would fit into a 10mm hole 🤥 And I'm not quite there to make my own cutting tools 😅
@@robertssmorgasbord Yeah there's definitely a quirk in the Micromote system here. The largest drill the PD250/e chuck supports is 10mm but official boring bar can only be used in holes from 12mm. I guess this is one place where going with a 3rd party boring tools is the easiest option but it's odd that Proxxon have missed this.
It's weird seeing VCI paper (what was on the chuck) drenched in oil. They obviously dunked the chuck in oil before wrapping it. The paper has a chemical that prevents rust... but they wanted to double down on it I guess. :) Sherline (I saw a comment below) was Clisby's design from 1971 in Australia which everyone has nearly copied since, then they moved production to the USA in 1979/80. It's on top of my list (4500 Manual), but heard about PROXXON and sought a review video. Issue with the Sherline is it is a screw driven vs ball screw driven... but recently came out with a ball driven version. I'm here to see if this is screw or ball screw. I'm looking for a purchase for a long-haul... I want it to last many years and be accurate (watch making) as accurate can be.
I would go for the Proxxon over the Sherline, personally. I have a Sherline lathe and mill, and the lathe leaves a lot to be desired. Don't get me wrong, it's well made, it's just the design is very basic and lacking in many areas compared to something like the Proxxon (or the cheap Chinese mini lathes) which is based off of full sized engine lathes. I'm a machinist by trade so I'm used to full sized and full featured lathes and purchasing the Sherline probably was a bad choice but there are few options for a quality mini/micro lathe. Also be aware that the Proxxon PD 250 is in a completely different size class than the Sherline, roughly 5.5 inches/140mm)swing (Proxxon) vs 3.5 inches/90mm (Sherline). You can get riser blocks to increase the swing of the Sherline to around 6 inches (155mm), but the core design is that of a 3.5 inch lathe and trying to turn anything above that is going to really strain the machine (e.g. deflection, insufficient torque). The Proxxon FD 150 is probably more comparable to the Sherline in terms of both size and features, and between those I'd go for the Sherline. I'm actually looking at buying a Proxxon PD 250 or PD 400 to replace the Sherline, lol.
@@gretah3969 Thank you for your input! I'm looking into watch making (a lathe will be really far out in the timeline) and the parts (screws, pinions, etc) will be in the sub 3.5" diameter, although if I was to get into clock making... well... the Proxxon would be it for the larger chuck. I was looking at options to the bajillion dollar Bergeon 1766.
@@gretah3969 Hi Greta, thank you very much for that very detailed insight. Since the only lathes I know are industrial ones (back when I was in senior high) and my tine PD 250/E, it is very interesting to learn about other (hobbyist) machines (Sherline). If I had the money and the space I might have considered the PD 400. But then, for the price of a PD 400 you can almost get a Wabeco D2000 (made in Germany out of steel, not aluminum): www.wabeco-remscheid.de/drehmaschinen/drehmaschine-d2000-2.html
Well, in principle you can turn anything with that lathe. It really depends on the cutting tools you are using. For example if you have cutting tools with ceramic inserts you could cut hardened steel with that lathe. However, due to the high cutting forces you might only be able to take off, say, 0.1mm at a time. Realistically I wouldn't turn anything harder than mild steel on this lathe, because otherwise things would get very tedious.
@@michaelmailhot3493 You're welcome! I would start with some aluminum and then work my way up to mild steel. You'll hear and feel when the lathe starts struggling.
I'm still happy with it. Besides regular maintenance (cleaning and oiling) I just had to adjust the tail stock once. I guess the cross slide is next, because its lead screw became a little loose over time. I also brought that thing to its limits, drilling a 16mm hole into aluminum. That all said, it's a small lathe and I sometimes wish I had something larger 😅
@@robertssmorgasbord because i heave oportunity buy myford 15 for this same price...ind im not sure. I heave plan make chess pieces . Thx for answer and recension of proxxon
@@Waldemord Couldn't find anything about the Myford 15, but found a video about the Myford ML10. Assuming that the two are comparable, if it is in good nick and you can stomach the weight and the space requirements, I would go with the Myford. It's all steel and probably more capable than the Proxxon PD 250/E. I think some places still sell spare parts ( www.myford.co.uk/ ). But then, I'm turning (larger) metal and POM parts, not chess pieces 😅
Well, while the tailstock looks very similar, I don't think you might find any exchangeable parts. Anyway, thank you for bringing up SHERLINE lathes - I didn't know about them until now.
Ja, so um 950€ ist derzeit der beste Preis den man kriegen kann (gibt auch Läden die Versuchen das Ding für 1.200€ an den Mann zu bringen). Hab Anfangs versucht eine gebraucht zu bekommen, aber entweder waren die Dinger total runtergeritten oder nur zur Abholung - ein paar 100km entfernt. Ich drehe gerade meine ersten Teile (POM) mit der PD 250/E und die Ergebnisse können sich sehen lassen (Exzentrizität
@21:05 Puh... That is one heck of a bummer... I was considering buying either a PD 250 if not a PD 400 for my occasional Scale Modelling endeavours but the latter has skyrocketed in price over the past year from usually below 2'000.- to almost 2'600.- ( and that isn't even including additional accessories I estimate I'd be needing ) making it an increasingly hard sell for the limited use I estimate I'd get out of it but it would be the only model that could make a single piece barrel for something like my E-100 ( ruclips.net/video/6XZXryXOO5A/видео.html ) and the PD 250's supposed 250mm realistically only being 200mm isn't helping either 🤔
Yeah, tell me about it. Lately I put a chuck into my tailstock with a 12mm drill - fortunately my workpiece was only 105mm long ( ruclips.net/video/7WoETltnHtY/видео.html ). But yes, it's a very small lathe. Regarding the PD 400: Have a look at the WABECO (Made in Germany) D2000 ( www.wabeco-remscheid.de/lathes/d2000.html ). Since the PD 400 became so expensive, I always considered the D2000 the better choice. And sometimes WABECO sells off demo units for just 2600, or they have special offers including a tool set.
@@robertssmorgasbord Center to center distance is always measured between the tip of a dead center in the headstock and the tip of a dead center in the tail stock. So judging by how wide the chuck is (looks in the video) and how long the live center is, it might actually have a center to center distance greater than 250mm. If your worried about not having enough room, you could buy a Sherline 3 jaw chuck. On the Sherline chucks you turn the scroll itself to close the chuck, rather than turning a bevel gear that then turns the scroll. This allows for a much slimmer chuck, but the downside is you have to rotate your hand around and around rather than just spinning a key.
@@gretah3969 Thanks for the tip! But before adapting a Sherline chuck to my Proxxon I probably invest into a Proxxon 4 jaw chuck 😅 That is unless I really run out of space 🤣
@@GILSON300LBM Acho que os custos de envio da Europa para a América do Sul são o problema aqui. De qualquer forma, eu não compraria por 2.200. Não é tão bom assim. (Google Tradutor)
@all PD250 Owners: Does anybody know the exact designation of both spindle bearings, the large one (chuck end, front) and the small one (drive-train, rear)? My bearing became noisy and i‘d like to maybe upgrade to angular contact or even taper rollers - just as this old tony did in ‚better lathe than never‘ m.ruclips.net/video/HYOgmhpBUJs/видео.html
Nope, only the Proxxon part numbers: 24002-01-21-1 (large) and 24002-01-21-2 (small). But you can order them as spare parts: large - www.fluidonline.de/a-14382 , small - www.fluidonline.de/a-14383 , respectively www.proxxon.com/en/service/request_for_spare_part.php . I'm sure Proxxon buys those from some bearing manufacturer and a proper designation should be stamped on the spares. Maybe they even come in the bearing manufacturer's original box 😅
Well, meanwhile I did use it. See the "Dual Electronic Engine Control Lever IP68" playlist ruclips.net/p/PLwq-2MnM58FLQ468e5-wzV6_MeqT4Zd5T . I used the lathe in parts 5, 11, 15 and 16.
So, what Proxxon Products that you tried where useless?? I got this Lathe and it turns Steel, Brass and Aluminum very well within 0.01mm , I got a Proxxon FF230 Mill and it also works well, i got some Industrial Tools from Proxxon, Ratches, Screwdrivers an so on. Some of them since 1994...all high quality, nothing broke....wich of yours are useless?
@@foogee9971 you can use Proxxon tools and machines, but they don't help you make useful stuff in reasonable time with least costs. I even motorised a Proxxon MF70, it's a total loss. By the way, I'm talking about little stuff with soft materials, like aluminum. Some claim they use them with iron, without showing any proof. Sure, even running water can cut iron, but it would take years.
@@foogee9971 Many things that they no longer manufacture in the EU (like all electrical tools and machines, including their lathes and mills), but in China. For example the MB 200 drill stand. See my videos ruclips.net/video/mVmlZQz_OFI/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/akoKPEO_ggc/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/bmnKAnYFkbk/видео.html . Have a look at the comments of people experiencing similar problems. Though, my new Proxxon lathe is really sweet.
@@kavorka8855 Ah ok, i agree...a MF70 is the lowest end, it is rated for Modelists, Juweliers etc, working with soft materials like plastic or maybe brass. You need the right tool for the right material....but have a look at "Volodymyr Zhadlun"...he upgraded a MF70 and does fantastic twork with ist. 👍
@@robertssmorgasbord You've convinced me. A brand new "Proxxon PD 250" is on my table. I don't even dare to turn it on. The pieces gradually become clear. But what do I do with the little bag, "6Pcs Shim Blade Set"? Adjusting the turning tool?
@@odysseus2843 Yeah, the bag of shims got me too 😅 At first I thought it's for shimming the bed when you screw it down on a bench or something. But your idea is the correct one. You use the shims to adjust the height of your turning tool. The tip of the turning tool should be at the same height as your center of rotation. You can see if it's too low when cleaning up a face: a little stub of material will remain in the middle. Just put shims with increasing thickness below your turning tool until you can clean up faces without any leftovers in the center.
the "Blade Shims" are not for leveling the lathe. They are provided so you can shim under the tool bit to get the cutting edge on the center line. Also you had the reverse jaws backwards. The angled ends face each other
Thanks for the info! After quite some time I did realize that that the shims are for the tool 😅 Though, getting the reverse jaws in backwards is unforgivable 😬To my defense, I learned on big industrial lathes (no, I'm not a mechanist, it was just a course during senior high) where you would do the tool height adjustment with a screw or two and I never used reverse jaws before in my life.
Nice! you gave yourself an amazing lathe. I like how you proudly show your tools, don't have to be a perfect tool, if you like it that's all that matters. So, no more legos... I see new videos coming on building the real thing ;)
Yes, the time of Legos is over for now. I'll need some more stuff and some more preparation, but then it's time for some milling, turning and drilling 😉
Excellent presentation Robert!
Thank you very much!
What a great piece of kit ! who dosent like unboxing a new tool especially if it's quite pricey and you've been saving up your pocket money !
looking forward to chips :)....cheers.
Yes, I really like it so far. As far as the "pocket money" goes ... I lived for more than two years now very frugal (business being slow because of the virus of unknow origin and such), but now I had two good quarters and it was time to reward myself. Anyway, a few weeks from now I'll try to turn some POM and aluminum stock on that thing. Hopefully I still like it afterwards.
@@robertssmorgasbord Congratulations ! Hope many more good quarters ahead ...
@@mumbaiverve2307 Well, the 4th and the 1st quarter of a calendar year are usually a bit slow (with Christmas and New Year in between). But that means I have more time for my projects 🙂
Anyone considering buying a Proxxon machine should consider watching Michel Uphoff's series of video's on his lathe & mini mill & their design flaws, yes, series of videos!!! I'm assuming this is just a smaller version of his PD 400 & may have similar. He does suffer from the usual, "I can't criticise something I paid a lot of money for" while fixing all the issues
Do you have a link ?
@@ronpalmer1371 I think he's talking about this Michael Uphoff: www.youtube.com/@Michel-Uphoff . And that would be Michael Uphoff's frist video about the PD 400: ruclips.net/video/YLT5xU0PeqM/видео.htmlsi=cgKfRHf2Jlp9v25g .
Thanks for the info! And yes, the Proxxon PD 250/E as well as the Proxxon BFB 2000 / KT 150 / BFW 40/E milling setup do have their flaws (that's the ones I have). But at least for the PD 250/E I can attest that it was usable out of the box. Something that can't be said for many of the Chinese made small lathes. Besides, in my case I needed a very small (that is light) lathe that I can lug around without breaking my back 😅
Tad eccentric in presentation but a pleasure to watch and very informative thanks for posting the video.
Thanks for the praise (I guess 😅). Regarding my eccentricity - hope that's me as a Germany guy trying to make English videos 😂
@@robertssmorgasbord Your English is better than German! 🤭 😝
@@odysseus2843 My English might be good, but not that good 😅 Thanks anyway!
@@robertssmorgasbord Your English is somehow refreshing. Anyway, thanks for the very thorough video.
Again, you're very welcome!
Oh lord, it's from Howell Michigan. Didn't think anything good happened down that road, that town has a rather poor reputation, hah. Thanks for the review! Was really curious about these machines.
Yeah, and I bought it because I was under the impression it was made in Germany. Anyway, could have been worse for me as a European, e.g. the whole thing could have been based on the Imperial system 😅
Anyway, it's the smallest lathe with a lead screw I know of (the even smaller PD 150/E doesn't have one).
@@robertssmorgasbord Oh, just the paper I mean is made in Howell! Pretty sure the lathe is German, and I definitely kinda want one. ;D
@@dakel20 Yeah, I got that 😉 I was just joking 😅. One of the main reasons I got that lathe was that it is made in Germany. I wanted something that worked out of the box and not another project, like getting a Chinese mini lathe to work properly.
After watching your video , I decided to get a second hand one . Unfortunately there is no users manual . Would it be possible for you to show the whole gear cutting page ? It would be very useful
Or you could download the whole manual here: proxxonspain.es/images/pdf/manuales/2224002-M.pdf 😁
Nice new toy 🤚 , just curious about the speed control , is it a DC motor ? Would be nice to check if it has good torque at low speeds to do turn threads in ferrous metals. Am a huge fan boy of German machine tools , used to work with a lot of German machinery in my "childhood" in the early 90's till early 2k. Maho, BoKo , Trumpf, Guhring , Injection molding machines from MDKT.
Yes, according to PROXXON it's a DC motor and the electronic speed control uses full waves. So I guess there's full-wave rectifier, followed by a SCR switched at zero-crossing (PROXXON for sure loves SCRs). So at the core it's probably a brushed 230V DC motor. I actually learned turning on such German brand name lathe (some 40 years ago). Unfortunately the small lathe market is nowadays, with the exception of PROXXON and WABECO, completely in Chinese hands. And the smallest WABECO (350mm, 1.4kW, 59kg!) is about 2.500€.
My knowledge of lathes is next to nothing! I believe the Proxxon DB 250 can be used for turning wooden ship model yards and masts. Would this Proxxon PD 250E be suitable for this use and other wood tuning projects. Would it be a better option even though more expensive.
Well, since I don't know anything about wood turning, I'm not really qualified to answer your question. Anyway, the Proxxon PD 250/E is definitely not intended for wood turning, it's made for metals (and plastics). That said, I don't see any reason why you couldn't, in principle, turn wood on it. However, the handling would be very different from something like a Proxxon DB 250, starting with the fact that you have a chuck on one side and not a spiky carrier (don't know how that thing is called on a woodturning lathe). And then there's of course the question of cutting tool. The Proxxon PD 250/E is designed to accept tool steels with 8mm x 8mm square shafts. I don't thing you can get wood turning tools with such shafts, so would have to make your own.
The tailstock is actually a B12 taper, that's the larger half an MT1. Overall I love my PD250/e but personally I think B12 is too small and doesn't grip the drill chuck very well. Also it's hard to get things like reams or die holders in that size (although you can cut the small end off an MT1).
Thanks for the info! And indeed, I did notice my drill chuck slipping occasionally when drilling 12mm holes into POM ☹
Yeah, think 10mm is the limit for two-blade spiral drills for dat lil lathe, better open hole up and switch as soon as possible to single-point cutting boring bar
@@marcoam2610 That was initially the plan, but I couldn't find a boring bar that would fit into a 10mm hole 🤥 And I'm not quite there to make my own cutting tools 😅
@@robertssmorgasbord Yeah there's definitely a quirk in the Micromote system here. The largest drill the PD250/e chuck supports is 10mm but official boring bar can only be used in holes from 12mm.
I guess this is one place where going with a 3rd party boring tools is the easiest option but it's odd that Proxxon have missed this.
Ignore what I just said, I'm an idiot! :D
The HSS boring kit 24 520 is what we need.
It's weird seeing VCI paper (what was on the chuck) drenched in oil. They obviously dunked the chuck in oil before wrapping it. The paper has a chemical that prevents rust... but they wanted to double down on it I guess. :)
Sherline (I saw a comment below) was Clisby's design from 1971 in Australia which everyone has nearly copied since, then they moved production to the USA in 1979/80. It's on top of my list (4500 Manual), but heard about PROXXON and sought a review video. Issue with the Sherline is it is a screw driven vs ball screw driven... but recently came out with a ball driven version. I'm here to see if this is screw or ball screw. I'm looking for a purchase for a long-haul... I want it to last many years and be accurate (watch making) as accurate can be.
The Proxxon PD 250/E has also a simple nut and not a ball screw nut on the lead screw - sorry.
I would go for the Proxxon over the Sherline, personally. I have a Sherline lathe and mill, and the lathe leaves a lot to be desired. Don't get me wrong, it's well made, it's just the design is very basic and lacking in many areas compared to something like the Proxxon (or the cheap Chinese mini lathes) which is based off of full sized engine lathes. I'm a machinist by trade so I'm used to full sized and full featured lathes and purchasing the Sherline probably was a bad choice but there are few options for a quality mini/micro lathe. Also be aware that the Proxxon PD 250 is in a completely different size class than the Sherline, roughly 5.5 inches/140mm)swing (Proxxon) vs 3.5 inches/90mm (Sherline). You can get riser blocks to increase the swing of the Sherline to around 6 inches (155mm), but the core design is that of a 3.5 inch lathe and trying to turn anything above that is going to really strain the machine (e.g. deflection, insufficient torque). The Proxxon FD 150 is probably more comparable to the Sherline in terms of both size and features, and between those I'd go for the Sherline. I'm actually looking at buying a Proxxon PD 250 or PD 400 to replace the Sherline, lol.
@@gretah3969 Thank you for your input! I'm looking into watch making (a lathe will be really far out in the timeline) and the parts (screws, pinions, etc) will be in the sub 3.5" diameter, although if I was to get into clock making... well... the Proxxon would be it for the larger chuck.
I was looking at options to the bajillion dollar Bergeon 1766.
@@gretah3969 Hi Greta, thank you very much for that very detailed insight. Since the only lathes I know are industrial ones (back when I was in senior high) and my tine PD 250/E, it is very interesting to learn about other (hobbyist) machines (Sherline). If I had the money and the space I might have considered the PD 400. But then, for the price of a PD 400 you can almost get a Wabeco D2000 (made in Germany out of steel, not aluminum): www.wabeco-remscheid.de/drehmaschinen/drehmaschine-d2000-2.html
Is it possible to make vert small watch pieces with that lathe?
Nope, I don't think this lathe is suitable for making very small watch pieces.
I do.@@robertssmorgasbord
Is there CAM possibility?
Nope, if you want a Proxxon CAM/CNC lathe you'll have to go with the larger (and much more expensive) Proxxon PD 400/CNC.
What is the hardest material this can turn, could it do steal?
Well, in principle you can turn anything with that lathe. It really depends on the cutting tools you are using. For example if you have cutting tools with ceramic inserts you could cut hardened steel with that lathe. However, due to the high cutting forces you might only be able to take off, say, 0.1mm at a time. Realistically I wouldn't turn anything harder than mild steel on this lathe, because otherwise things would get very tedious.
Thank you so much, I’m considering buying one myself but I don’t want to break it on the first go.
@@michaelmailhot3493 You're welcome! I would start with some aluminum and then work my way up to mild steel. You'll hear and feel when the lathe starts struggling.
Congratulations .... you got a nice addition to your tool set.
Waiting for the videos using this in action
Thanks for sharing
Thanks! It will take a few weeks, but we'll see some 20mm POM and 18mm aluminum round stock being machined on it.
Great explanation!
Thanks and you're welcome!
Hou you think about this machine after one year?
I'm still happy with it. Besides regular maintenance (cleaning and oiling) I just had to adjust the tail stock once. I guess the cross slide is next, because its lead screw became a little loose over time. I also brought that thing to its limits, drilling a 16mm hole into aluminum. That all said, it's a small lathe and I sometimes wish I had something larger 😅
@@robertssmorgasbord because i heave oportunity buy myford 15 for this same price...ind im not sure. I heave plan make chess pieces . Thx for answer and recension of proxxon
@@Waldemord Couldn't find anything about the Myford 15, but found a video about the Myford ML10. Assuming that the two are comparable, if it is in good nick and you can stomach the weight and the space requirements, I would go with the Myford. It's all steel and probably more capable than the Proxxon PD 250/E. I think some places still sell spare parts ( www.myford.co.uk/ ). But then, I'm turning (larger) metal and POM parts, not chess pieces 😅
I tend to haunt these videos looking for items which might interchange with my SHERLINE 4100 Manual Metric.
Well, while the tailstock looks very similar, I don't think you might find any exchangeable parts. Anyway, thank you for bringing up SHERLINE lathes - I didn't know about them until now.
Sehr schön, habe meine vor kurzem auch bekommen. Für 950€ im Angebot bei Amazon. Bin zufrieden
Ja, so um 950€ ist derzeit der beste Preis den man kriegen kann (gibt auch Läden die Versuchen das Ding für 1.200€ an den Mann zu bringen). Hab Anfangs versucht eine gebraucht zu bekommen, aber entweder waren die Dinger total runtergeritten oder nur zur Abholung - ein paar 100km entfernt.
Ich drehe gerade meine ersten Teile (POM) mit der PD 250/E und die Ergebnisse können sich sehen lassen (Exzentrizität
@21:05 Puh... That is one heck of a bummer... I was considering buying either a PD 250 if not a PD 400 for my occasional Scale Modelling endeavours but the latter has skyrocketed in price over the past year from usually below 2'000.- to almost 2'600.- ( and that isn't even including additional accessories I estimate I'd be needing ) making it an increasingly hard sell for the limited use I estimate I'd get out of it but it would be the only model that could make a single piece barrel for something like my E-100 ( ruclips.net/video/6XZXryXOO5A/видео.html ) and the PD 250's supposed 250mm realistically only being 200mm isn't helping either 🤔
Yeah, tell me about it. Lately I put a chuck into my tailstock with a 12mm drill - fortunately my workpiece was only 105mm long ( ruclips.net/video/7WoETltnHtY/видео.html ). But yes, it's a very small lathe. Regarding the PD 400: Have a look at the WABECO (Made in Germany) D2000 ( www.wabeco-remscheid.de/lathes/d2000.html ). Since the PD 400 became so expensive, I always considered the D2000 the better choice. And sometimes WABECO sells off demo units for just 2600, or they have special offers including a tool set.
@@robertssmorgasbord Center to center distance is always measured between the tip of a dead center in the headstock and the tip of a dead center in the tail stock. So judging by how wide the chuck is (looks in the video) and how long the live center is, it might actually have a center to center distance greater than 250mm. If your worried about not having enough room, you could buy a Sherline 3 jaw chuck. On the Sherline chucks you turn the scroll itself to close the chuck, rather than turning a bevel gear that then turns the scroll. This allows for a much slimmer chuck, but the downside is you have to rotate your hand around and around rather than just spinning a key.
@@gretah3969 Thanks for the tip! But before adapting a Sherline chuck to my Proxxon I probably invest into a Proxxon 4 jaw chuck 😅 That is unless I really run out of space 🤣
What is price
950€ ( ruclips.net/video/Sd51lL06qns/видео.htmlsi=Q3jCYZlGhJWdnMfM&t=1508 )
Aqui no Brasil custa 2.200 Euros...um roubo
@@GILSON300LBM Acho que os custos de envio da Europa para a América do Sul são o problema aqui. De qualquer forma, eu não compraria por 2.200. Não é tão bom assim. (Google Tradutor)
@all PD250 Owners: Does anybody know the exact designation of both spindle bearings, the large one (chuck end, front) and the small one (drive-train, rear)? My bearing became noisy and i‘d like to maybe upgrade to angular contact or even taper rollers - just as this old tony did in ‚better lathe than never‘ m.ruclips.net/video/HYOgmhpBUJs/видео.html
Nope, only the Proxxon part numbers: 24002-01-21-1 (large) and 24002-01-21-2 (small). But you can order them as spare parts: large - www.fluidonline.de/a-14382 , small - www.fluidonline.de/a-14383 , respectively www.proxxon.com/en/service/request_for_spare_part.php . I'm sure Proxxon buys those from some bearing manufacturer and a proper designation should be stamped on the spares. Maybe they even come in the bearing manufacturer's original box 😅
You didn't actually used it. Most Proxxon products I've tried are practically useless. I wanted to use this being used.
Well, meanwhile I did use it. See the "Dual Electronic Engine Control Lever IP68" playlist ruclips.net/p/PLwq-2MnM58FLQ468e5-wzV6_MeqT4Zd5T . I used the lathe in parts 5, 11, 15 and 16.
So, what Proxxon Products that you tried where useless?? I got this Lathe and it turns Steel, Brass and Aluminum very well within 0.01mm , I got a Proxxon FF230 Mill and it also works well, i got some Industrial Tools from Proxxon, Ratches, Screwdrivers an so on. Some of them since 1994...all high quality, nothing broke....wich of yours are useless?
@@foogee9971 you can use Proxxon tools and machines, but they don't help you make useful stuff in reasonable time with least costs. I even motorised a Proxxon MF70, it's a total loss. By the way, I'm talking about little stuff with soft materials, like aluminum. Some claim they use them with iron, without showing any proof. Sure, even running water can cut iron, but it would take years.
@@foogee9971 Many things that they no longer manufacture in the EU (like all electrical tools and machines, including their lathes and mills), but in China. For example the MB 200 drill stand. See my videos ruclips.net/video/mVmlZQz_OFI/видео.html , ruclips.net/video/akoKPEO_ggc/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/bmnKAnYFkbk/видео.html . Have a look at the comments of people experiencing similar problems. Though, my new Proxxon lathe is really sweet.
@@kavorka8855 Ah ok, i agree...a MF70 is the lowest end, it is rated for Modelists, Juweliers etc, working with soft materials like plastic or maybe brass. You need the right tool for the right material....but have a look at "Volodymyr Zhadlun"...he upgraded a MF70 and does fantastic twork with ist. 👍
Ну короче говоря все как в их публичном доме
Восходящея звезда в странном мире порно гномов😏
🤣Это цитата или вы сами это придумали?
Great explanation! And in perfect English! Keep it up! 😁 ✌ 👍
Thanks for the praise! And of course you're welcome!
@@robertssmorgasbord You've convinced me. A brand new "Proxxon PD 250" is on my table. I don't even dare to turn it on. The pieces gradually become clear. But what do I do with the little bag, "6Pcs Shim Blade Set"? Adjusting the turning tool?
@@odysseus2843 Yeah, the bag of shims got me too 😅 At first I thought it's for shimming the bed when you screw it down on a bench or something. But your idea is the correct one. You use the shims to adjust the height of your turning tool. The tip of the turning tool should be at the same height as your center of rotation. You can see if it's too low when cleaning up a face: a little stub of material will remain in the middle. Just put shims with increasing thickness below your turning tool until you can clean up faces without any leftovers in the center.
the "Blade Shims" are not for leveling the lathe. They are provided so you can shim under the tool bit to get the cutting edge on the center line. Also you had the reverse jaws backwards. The angled ends face each other
Thanks for the info! After quite some time I did realize that that the shims are for the tool 😅 Though, getting the reverse jaws in backwards is unforgivable 😬To my defense, I learned on big industrial lathes (no, I'm not a mechanist, it was just a course during senior high) where you would do the tool height adjustment with a screw or two and I never used reverse jaws before in my life.
Nice! you gave yourself an amazing lathe. I like how you proudly show your tools, don't have to be a perfect tool, if you like it that's all that matters. So, no more legos... I see new videos coming on building the real thing ;)
Yes, the time of Legos is over for now. I'll need some more stuff and some more preparation, but then it's time for some milling, turning and drilling 😉