@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Absolutely, without a doubt. But still sounds like commutator and segments need cleaning, not reaching full RPM. Old motor should run just as quiet and smooth with new bearings and cleaning. Good luck 🤞
Just continue with your repair in your shop, the biggest difference between an electric motor shop and a home mechanic and a shop is they own an armature growler, you have access to the same hack saw blades they clean the insulator spaces with, and emery cloth they refinish the slip rings with, motors are simpler than most people realize. With new bearing, brushes, and cleaning the mica insulator spaces, they are basically new, very few shops are capable of rewinding an overheated field coil anymore, so, you can do nearly every thing they can do anymore.
To lubricate those sealed bearings you can pry the plastic/rubber seals out with an awl and squeeze some grease in. The seals just snap back in. If they’re really rusty inside soak them in evaporust for a couple days and let them dry out before grease
Yes you can! I did a small winch motor that the magnets came unglued. Maybe a dremel tool with a small grinding bit would have helped. Mine also had gotten water inside and seized. Except Mine was a cheap motor that was mounted on a hoist for a pickup bed that I got at the swap meet. I think the bearings in your motor are rough from rust. They won't last long if they have gotten pitted.
When I was a young lad, I was taught to take an awl and put a scratch where each part of a motor type item was disassembled. You basic have three parts. Two ends and the center. Before disassembly, put one scratch on one end and the center and two scratches on the other end and center, scratching across the joint, where they meet. That way, you know what end went where and if you line the scratches up, theres no twist, putting stress on the bearings. The thingy in the center, is the armature, and the copper segments on the end, are the commutator segments. The stator, is the outer portion/magnets.
Hey Josh don't mean to sound like a know all but watching you put that electric motor back together i would have taken the commutator out and polished the copper so that's clean too so the brushes have clean copper to ride on. Next time when you pull the motor apart and clean it and change the bearings etc dont put the brushes back on until you have all the motor back together including the commutator. As you know the brushes are spring loaded when there is no commutator in there the brushes go in too far when you try to put the commutator back with the brushes already installed they will catch on the commutator and will be damaged. Hope this helps. Great video cracked up loughing all the way never give up mate we never stop learning something every day wooo!!
Ever heard of Evaporust? Harbor Freight sells it. You could have soaked that thing in it and it would have come out like shiny metal. For me it has worked great. Might want to buy a gallon and keep it around for rusty metal parts, tools, etc.
There is something I find very cathartic about watching one of your videos to start my day. I know you're under the weather (Ivermectin!), but thanks for still getting a 48-minute video of your day up for us. Even in my younger days, I did not own a 100-acre spread but still found myself doing many of the tasks you do, bringing back fond memories. (Oddly, I still feel like I could!) My wife has no idea what I get out of this, as the closest thing I do to your day is feed my dog and pick it up a few hours later! (Sorry, no video!) P.S. Where's the beef? LOL.
Great effort absent is product Evapo-rust comes in gel or liquid this even at quart size would have changed your outcome any little metal fiber would cause resistance drag and a slight grinding drag noise whereas chemical rust oxide remover would have removed rust without the extra drag. Also a canula air chuck blower tip may have removed any metal fiber, which a magnet might attract, Eh? Buy a gallon of Evapo-rust from harbor freight don't toss it it still works if it's dirty. Great interesting stuff, I could totally see sitting next to you tinkering with you on your old motor.
Holy Cow Josh that motor was super rusty like it sat immursed in water. I could make a suggestion to use an engine cylinder hone for your drill to clean that armature inside that Motor housing, I guess by now you already have it done. Hope ya got it fixed.
I am a believer in soaking everything in penetrating oil from the start, and giving it a little time to do some magic. Your DIY videos are very inspiring! Keep it up. Maybe the Popcorn project will get started this Winter during the colder weather.?
Any time a motor looks like that on the inside its a full clean and rebuild. Instead of using a sanding block on the armature use a finer wire wheel and ull wana clean the commutator the brushes ride against as well you dont want a buildup of brush dust between sections. Id be interested to see what the motor actually is being it doesnt appear like its outdoor rated. Keep up the good work glad to see your not afraid to try things.
Plus the wire brush should have solid brass bristles, non-magnetic, not even brass coated, and motor wasn't fan or liquid cooled for continuous duty. And you're right those segments should also be cleaned along with the commutator
I had a plow motor that filled with water just like yours. I bought a new ine and put silicone in all areas that water could intrude. been fine for 3 plus years
Great video. Thanks for the memories, Josh. Learned to replace the starter brushes on my 59 Chevy Impala when I was 17 y/o. I used a lot more colorful language than you did though. 😂
Hey Josh thank you for the video and I know you can fix it because I can fix it myself to now leave it where you fix the machine if you can and if you're going to leave it outdoors cover it up with a tarp woo
tarp would hold moisture....however wood mizer has a cover that they sell....for some reason the darn salesman was dead against me ordering the cover for it when I bought the mill.....he kept telling me I could just use a tarp...I kept telling him to order the cover....I won't have my equipment covered up with an old blue tarp....now look....it's rusting up!
Sounds like the bearings took on water and rusted. Order new bearings. Also, without the scratches, you probably don’t have the alignment correct and there’s binding.
Be careful about allen/hex set screws! If you put too much torque on them, the allen/hex wrench can split the set screw and that’s not good. Drill time.
That motor may have been rated as dust proof but it obviously is not rated as waterproof. There were no O-rings or seals anywhere and the water intrusion was obvious. I am sure that your bearings got corroded (or at least severely gunked up) along with everything else in there hence the crunchyness... To rebuild a motor (that doesn't have a shorted out stator) you really want to completely disassemble it (pull the rotor completely out), clean up the commutator ring (gently) and replace the bearings at which point it should run like new again. If you are shooting for as cheap as possible you may be able to get away with just tossing the the old bearings in an ultrasonic cleaner with some evaporust, thoroughly cleaning and drying them afterwards and then regreasing/oiling them instead of buying new bearings. For what it is worth what you showed there is the normal state of affairs when rebuilding old vehicle starter motors (which I have done more times than I care to count - thank you Triumph and Lucas electrical in particular). Just as an observation... regardless of what Sawmizer may claim that machine is not meant to live out in the weather. Considering that the ground connection for that motor is an exposed bare steel track, the motor(s?) are not sealed, the bandsaw blade will quickly rust as soon as any moisture is left on it and probably for a host of other reasons, claiming that that machine can simply live happily out in your yard all year is pure marketing hype. Paint simply isn't the same thing as being out of the weather in a covered storage area. I would hate for the thing to get messed up and for you to lose your substantial investment just because it was sitting outside. I know there is never time to do everything (like building a storage shed) and I know that real life is one giant compromise but it just kills me to see such a nice piece of equipment fall apart due to something as simple as sitting out in the weather. Keep fighting the good fight! All the best from California (where maybe you COULD store it outside all year long)! :) 🧡
Kind of frustrating to see that the brushes were just run in before they got stuck by corrosion. If it hadn't taken a bath and corroded that motor would have lasted for years before you had to replace the brushes. Well it just shows what we really should all known before. Machines like this don't like being left outside where wind, rain snow and even the sun can eat into it. when it's a machine as large as this you don't really want to have to stash it inside a garage, and just wrapping it in tarps can help but it's not user friendly taking way to much time every time you ware to use it. A cold shed or as you planned using a container to back it into is about the best practical way I can see to house this cheaply and easy to use without taking a lot of time to use.
In one of your vids you talked about time being very important. By the time spent on trying to fix this motor you could have replaced the motor and fixed the bottom rail etc.
well...you understand that having a good spare motor is also a good idea.....dedicating time to what's appropriate for "normal" folks that are just living is much different from dedicating time to a cool piece of content like this that folks will enjoy.
Not sure about the place where you hooked the chain on to the claw turner when you were raising the loading arms. Try the bar where the two springs are anchored.
Excellent you were motoring on with that repair 😜😆... can I suggest cutting a bit of plastic pipe so it clips over the motor to help protect it from any future damp issues.. stay safe 🏴
yep....they won't last all day that's for sure...turn up the heat, get warm and then turn it to the low setting. I totally hear ya....but if ya had to carry a bigger battery it would not be fun lol
Hydration is the key to health buddy. Rest is overrated but together they tend to catch up with you. Hope you feel better now. Thank you for the video but I couldn’t watch the whole thing… too long.
hmmm....I don't think there's any way to do that since I didn't pull any of the wiring out. I'll get into it a little more off camera and get it right for sure!
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Borrowed from the internet: Key points about brush direction: Bevel angle: Most brushes have a beveled edge which should be angled towards the direction of the motor's rotation to ensure smooth contact with the commutator. Motor rotation change: If you install the brushes backwards, the motor may still run, but with increased friction and wear on the brushes as they rub against the commutator at an incorrect angle. Important when replacing brushes: When replacing brushes, always compare the old ones to the new ones to ensure the bevel is facing the correct way.
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤ another great episode 👍enjoy seeing the cows❤ Donnie is a great looking South Poll Bull❤ you have some really great genetics❤did you ever try to sell those 75% South Poll cows privately ❤just like Greg Judy he sells 2nd generation 75% South Polls for a lot of $$$$$$$$$$$
This is like watching a monkey f ing a football. Josh you must have never taken a DC current permanent magnet motor apart. The brushes were stuck in the brush holders. All caused by water making it into the motor. I take a gallon slider bag and put over the motor so that any water never makes it to the frame in a way that the output shaft is clear of the plastic bag. I watched another wood miser user have a sensor go bad because they did not use waterproof connectors on there equipment. My sprayer pump motor was not working, soon as i took the brush cap off i could see the corrosion. A quick disassembly and clean up and has been working for several years now. With the yearly install of a new slider bag. Those bearing can be replaced for a couple bucks each. I usually replace when I have a motor apart. 40 years of working on elevators we always replace motor bearings if we took it apart.
well.... Allen...clearly it was corroded...and this aint rocket science, it's just 2 nuts/bolts and some elbow grease. I pretty much figured when I put it back together that it would need to be turned at the local motor shop or at least new bearings and a bit of emory cloth on the armature. Been a hot minute since I had to rebuild or rework a motor
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Well Josh you get kudos for trying. You gave me a few laughs anyway. I was blown away with the wiring process of tractors and how and what they use. Wood Miser does the same awful things. Not waterproof or even water resistant connectors. So having a cover over your saw will cure many future issues. The gallon slider bag is a cheap fix for that motor. If you ever take it a part again some silicone on both sides will help too.
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
36:32 sounds like bad bearing noise to me.
I think so too!
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Absolutely, without a doubt. But still sounds like commutator and segments need cleaning, not reaching full RPM. Old motor should run just as quiet and smooth with new bearings and cleaning. Good luck 🤞
Just continue with your repair in your shop, the biggest difference between an electric motor shop and a home mechanic and a shop is they own an armature growler, you have access to the same hack saw blades they clean the insulator spaces with, and emery cloth they refinish the slip rings with, motors are simpler than most people realize. With new bearing, brushes, and cleaning the mica insulator spaces, they are basically new, very few shops are capable of rewinding an overheated field coil anymore, so, you can do nearly every thing they can do anymore.
Thanks!
To lubricate those sealed bearings you can pry the plastic/rubber seals out with an awl and squeeze some grease in. The seals just snap back in. If they’re really rusty inside soak them in evaporust for a couple days and let them dry out before grease
Always fun to repair your own stuff. Rebuilt top end on my 86 yota with google youtube and a Haynes manual. Very fulfilling
Yes you can! I did a small winch motor that the magnets came unglued. Maybe a dremel tool with a small grinding bit would have helped. Mine also had gotten water inside and seized. Except Mine was a cheap motor that was mounted on a hoist for a pickup bed that I got at the swap meet. I think the bearings in your motor are rough from rust. They won't last long if they have gotten pitted.
Hey Josh, this one was definitely full of laughs for us. Sorry that you’re not feeling real good but enjoyed watching this one.
Compressed air to blow out what you just wire brushed!
As I am not a mechanic or maniacally incline, I love watching and could rebuilt while watch you demonstrated. Great Contract
When I was a young lad, I was taught to take an awl and put a scratch where each part of a motor type item was disassembled. You basic have three parts. Two ends and the center. Before disassembly, put one scratch on one end and the center and two scratches on the other end and center, scratching across the joint, where they meet. That way, you know what end went where and if you line the scratches up, theres no twist, putting stress on the bearings. The thingy in the center, is the armature, and the copper segments on the end, are the commutator segments. The stator, is the outer portion/magnets.
Motor shops usually use center punch marks to align each end bell with the housing. One ding on one side and two on the opposite side.
@ But it’s more accurate to use a scratch awl. It’s like lining up the lines on a vernier caliper.
I'll certainly give you props for your persistence! 😊
Your very talented you always have a positive attitude
Hey Josh don't mean to sound like a know all but watching you put that electric motor back together i would have taken the commutator out and polished the copper so that's clean too so the brushes have clean copper to ride on. Next time when you pull the motor apart and clean it and change the bearings etc dont put the brushes back on until you have all the motor back together including the commutator. As you know the brushes are spring loaded when there is no commutator in there the brushes go in too far when you try to put the commutator back with the brushes already installed they will catch on the commutator and will be damaged. Hope this helps. Great video cracked up loughing all the way never give up mate we never stop learning something every day wooo!!
Ever heard of Evaporust? Harbor Freight sells it. You could have soaked that thing in it and it would have come out like shiny metal. For me it has worked great. Might want to buy a gallon and keep it around for rusty metal parts, tools, etc.
There is something I find very cathartic about watching one of your videos to start my day. I know you're under the weather (Ivermectin!), but thanks for still getting a 48-minute video of your day up for us. Even in my younger days, I did not own a 100-acre spread but still found myself doing many of the tasks you do, bringing back fond memories. (Oddly, I still feel like I could!) My wife has no idea what I get out of this, as the closest thing I do to your day is feed my dog and pick it up a few hours later! (Sorry, no video!) P.S. Where's the beef? LOL.
glad ya enjoyed it!
You’re content is awesome
thanks! Glad ya enjoy it!
Good morning. Sitting here watching some Stoney Ridge in the deer shack! It is a good morning
Great effort absent is product Evapo-rust comes in gel or liquid this even at quart size would have changed your outcome any little metal fiber would cause resistance drag and a slight grinding drag noise whereas chemical rust oxide remover would have removed rust without the extra drag. Also a canula air chuck blower tip may have removed any metal fiber, which a magnet might attract, Eh? Buy a gallon of Evapo-rust from harbor freight don't toss it it still works if it's dirty. Great interesting stuff, I could totally see sitting next to you tinkering with you on your old motor.
Great video Josh very my injoy this kind of content 😅😅😅😅😅
Bearings are corroded. They’re growling at you, Josh!
Good morning !!!
🌹🌹🌹🌹
I know very little a bout electric motors. It does remind me of my on going problem with a ceiling fan 3 speed switch (pull chain)!
Harbor Freight (or amazon) for a decent bearing puller kit and also a decent 12 ton hydraulic press. Good to have in a farm shop.
Holy Cow Josh that motor was super rusty like it sat immursed in water. I could make a suggestion to use an engine cylinder hone for your drill to clean that armature inside that
Motor housing, I guess by now you already have it done. Hope ya got it fixed.
hi there well done . best to all .john
It’s better than it was!! And now you will have a spare motor. Great video as usual brother.
I let my dogs in my shop and they seem to like it
electric impact drill works great for stuck bolts. (battery powered)
You got very lucky with the blue towel .....
lol...I agree!
I am a believer in soaking everything in penetrating oil from the start, and giving it a little time to do some magic. Your DIY videos are very inspiring! Keep it up. Maybe the Popcorn project will get started this Winter during the colder weather.?
Any time a motor looks like that on the inside its a full clean and rebuild. Instead of using a sanding block on the armature use a finer wire wheel and ull wana clean the commutator the brushes ride against as well you dont want a buildup of brush dust between sections. Id be interested to see what the motor actually is being it doesnt appear like its outdoor rated. Keep up the good work glad to see your not afraid to try things.
Plus the wire brush should have solid brass bristles, non-magnetic, not even brass coated, and motor wasn't fan or liquid cooled for continuous duty. And you're right those segments should also be cleaned along with the commutator
I had a plow motor that filled with water just like yours. I bought a new ine and put silicone in all areas that water could intrude. been fine for 3 plus years
Great video. Thanks for the memories, Josh. Learned to replace the starter brushes on my 59 Chevy Impala when I was 17 y/o. I used a lot more colorful language than you did though. 😂
Yep...sometimes those colorful words are all you got!😂
Can remember you bought containers
Which you wanted to use to build a sawmill shed
yeppers.....it's still sitting there...gotta find a good place to put it
Josh I've found anything with moving parts should be housed inside but having the shed space is another issue for most people
Hey Josh thank you for the video and I know you can fix it because I can fix it myself to now leave it where you fix the machine if you can and if you're going to leave it outdoors cover it up with a tarp woo
tarp would hold moisture....however wood mizer has a cover that they sell....for some reason the darn salesman was dead against me ordering the cover for it when I bought the mill.....he kept telling me I could just use a tarp...I kept telling him to order the cover....I won't have my equipment covered up with an old blue tarp....now look....it's rusting up!
Sounds like the bearings took on water and rusted. Order new bearings. Also, without the scratches, you probably don’t have the alignment correct and there’s binding.
Be careful about allen/hex set screws! If you put too much torque on them, the allen/hex wrench can split the set screw and that’s not good. Drill time.
Put new bearing in it josh
Good video. I have to store my backhoe outside and hate that.
The tolerances are pretty close and the scratch lines get you to the factory specs.
That motor may have been rated as dust proof but it obviously is not rated as waterproof. There were no O-rings or seals anywhere and the water intrusion was obvious. I am sure that your bearings got corroded (or at least severely gunked up) along with everything else in there hence the crunchyness... To rebuild a motor (that doesn't have a shorted out stator) you really want to completely disassemble it (pull the rotor completely out), clean up the commutator ring (gently) and replace the bearings at which point it should run like new again. If you are shooting for as cheap as possible you may be able to get away with just tossing the the old bearings in an ultrasonic cleaner with some evaporust, thoroughly cleaning and drying them afterwards and then regreasing/oiling them instead of buying new bearings. For what it is worth what you showed there is the normal state of affairs when rebuilding old vehicle starter motors (which I have done more times than I care to count - thank you Triumph and Lucas electrical in particular).
Just as an observation... regardless of what Sawmizer may claim that machine is not meant to live out in the weather. Considering that the ground connection for that motor is an exposed bare steel track, the motor(s?) are not sealed, the bandsaw blade will quickly rust as soon as any moisture is left on it and probably for a host of other reasons, claiming that that machine can simply live happily out in your yard all year is pure marketing hype. Paint simply isn't the same thing as being out of the weather in a covered storage area. I would hate for the thing to get messed up and for you to lose your substantial investment just because it was sitting outside.
I know there is never time to do everything (like building a storage shed) and I know that real life is one giant compromise but it just kills me to see such a nice piece of equipment fall apart due to something as simple as sitting out in the weather.
Keep fighting the good fight! All the best from California (where maybe you COULD store it outside all year long)! :) 🧡
Kind of frustrating to see that the brushes were just run in before they got stuck by corrosion. If it hadn't taken a bath and corroded that motor would have lasted for years before you had to replace the brushes. Well it just shows what we really should all known before. Machines like this don't like being left outside where wind, rain snow and even the sun can eat into it. when it's a machine as large as this you don't really want to have to stash it inside a garage, and just wrapping it in tarps can help but it's not user friendly taking way to much time every time you ware to use it. A cold shed or as you planned using a container to back it into is about the best practical way I can see to house this cheaply and easy to use without taking a lot of time to use.
Morning SRF !
good morning!
The big pulley looks like it is Bent
"Everything I own is broken" or used to own. Hahaha 😅. YOUz funny. Don't feel like the Lone Stranger. Nope. Nice video.
Atta boy Luther!!!
In one of your vids you talked about time being very important. By the time spent on trying to fix this motor you could have replaced the motor and fixed the bottom rail etc.
well...you understand that having a good spare motor is also a good idea.....dedicating time to what's appropriate for "normal" folks that are just living is much different from dedicating time to a cool piece of content like this that folks will enjoy.
I remember when you got the trusses to build your Sawmill shed it's a shame you hadn't had time to get it done but you can't do everything
oh...we gonna get there...it's in the works!
Josh you can use a bigger work bench
coming soon for sure my brother!
Not sure about the place where you hooked the chain on to the claw turner when you were raising the loading arms. Try the bar where the two springs are anchored.
You need a pole building to store some of your equipment
you'll love sunday's video!
I wonder if one of those laser cleaning devices would work on an electric mortar?
You should have cleaned up the aperture, the coper that the brushes ride on ! It will run hot and ware out the brushes!!!
yep....had to press out the lower bearing to get that cleaned up
Excellent you were motoring on with that repair 😜😆... can I suggest cutting a bit of plastic pipe so it clips over the motor to help protect it from any future damp issues.. stay safe 🏴
caulking it up to seal it might work too!
Hey you guuyyyyys!!
Woooooo and Moooooo
Number 5 says, "Stephanie reassemble"?
Ah! Somebody gets it! Short Circuit...awesome movie!
Yes! LOL I absolutely loved it.
Ur Milwaukee jacket ? I bought one last year . The battery at most , lasted 1 hour.yes I bought 5 batterys. All the same. Other then that great
yep....they won't last all day that's for sure...turn up the heat, get warm and then turn it to the low setting. I totally hear ya....but if ya had to carry a bigger battery it would not be fun lol
@StoneyRidgeFarmer Forsure.
Do you give Buddy any meds or supplements for his age related arthritis?
buddy has hip dysplasia...he gets a daily medication and I'm treating his pain with some CBD supplements that are helping him
put a concrete vault around the valve cover
lol....sounds simple
Heat and vibration kills batteries...
Do they make a “cap” that fits over that pipe, instead of using a flimsier irrigation cover?
yep....in hindsight I should have used a different setup...we'll be correcting this over time for sure !
@ No problem, just offering advice, from my couch. I’m no expert, but I did spend a nite at one of those hotels. Ask Billy, from NY, he’ll tell ya.
Just put the new one on
Cows don’t like to be on camera😂
Josh, has your right arm been burned at some time?
my right hand has some scars from a burn back when I was 9...and one scar from a fight when I was about 19 lol
what kind of sawmil do you have? I'm thinking about getting a frontier os18
go woodmizer and have a saw that appreciates in value...go with anything else and you may regret it at some point. I'm very happy with the woodmizer
Hydration is the key to health buddy. Rest is overrated but together they tend to catch up with you. Hope you feel better now. Thank you for the video but I couldn’t watch the whole thing… too long.
I appreciate the concern, I'm feeling better now and glad you enjoyed what you could watch.
Sounds like you installed one or more of the burshes 180 degrees out.
hmmm....I don't think there's any way to do that since I didn't pull any of the wiring out. I'll get into it a little more off camera and get it right for sure!
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Borrowed from the internet:
Key points about brush direction:
Bevel angle:
Most brushes have a beveled edge which should be angled towards the direction of the motor's rotation to ensure smooth contact with the commutator.
Motor rotation change:
If you install the brushes backwards, the motor may still run, but with increased friction and wear on the brushes as they rub against the commutator at an incorrect angle.
Important when replacing brushes:
When replacing brushes, always compare the old ones to the new ones to ensure the bevel is facing the correct way.
❤❤VIDEO ❤❤ another great episode 👍enjoy seeing the cows❤ Donnie is a great looking South Poll Bull❤ you have some really great genetics❤did you ever try to sell those 75% South Poll cows privately ❤just like Greg Judy he sells 2nd generation 75% South Polls for a lot of $$$$$$$$$$$
yep...greg has a good setup out there for sure
those are some fat cattle my friend. even the Donkey is fat healthy fat that is.
thanks buddy! Testimony to what I'm doing here...it's working! I just wish my soil would get right...just spread 180 tons of lime last week!
How does it feel to have to work on something, BEFORE YOU CAN WORK ON SOMETHING!!?
feels like life on the farm lol
Feed your Dog Greenlipped Mussel pills if he has Arthritis
he has hip dysplasia.....just trying to be gentle with him and I do give him medications
I’ve always said cows are the smartest and dumbest animals on earth
Bad bearing
Their getting senile
they're getting stubborn lol
This is like watching a monkey f ing a football. Josh you must have never taken a DC current permanent magnet motor apart. The brushes were stuck in the brush holders. All caused by water making it into the motor. I take a gallon slider bag and put over the motor so that any water never makes it to the frame in a way that the output shaft is clear of the plastic bag. I watched another wood miser user have a sensor go bad because they did not use waterproof connectors on there equipment. My sprayer pump motor was not working, soon as i took the brush cap off i could see the corrosion. A quick disassembly and clean up and has been working for several years now. With the yearly install of a new slider bag. Those bearing can be replaced for a couple bucks each. I usually replace when I have a motor apart. 40 years of working on elevators we always replace motor bearings if we took it apart.
well.... Allen...clearly it was corroded...and this aint rocket science, it's just 2 nuts/bolts and some elbow grease. I pretty much figured when I put it back together that it would need to be turned at the local motor shop or at least new bearings and a bit of emory cloth on the armature. Been a hot minute since I had to rebuild or rework a motor
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Well Josh you get kudos for trying. You gave me a few laughs anyway. I was blown away with the wiring process of tractors and how and what they use. Wood Miser does the same awful things. Not waterproof or even water resistant connectors. So having a cover over your saw will cure many future issues. The gallon slider bag is a cheap fix for that motor. If you ever take it a part again some silicone on both sides will help too.