I like the way the slides are developing. They look really good! As an improvement to the machine, and most of the series,...The threads could be converted to acme by purchasing the lead screws and nuts from Grainger, or McMaster-Carr. They also have available the nuts in brass. I don't get anything from them...just a good source for a lot of industrial parts and supplies...not a discount house. ALSO...there is another book that goes along with the Gingery "SHOP from SCRAP" .Title is "Back Gears for the Gingery Lathe" by Marvin Guthery, published by David Gingery Publishing. Its a real neat addition to the little lathe. The "Deluxe Accessories" has the change gears and gear train so you could have threading capability... just wanting to keep your fire stoked!!
I am glad to see you say your going to use cast iron next its nice to work with, used motor oil has grate btu rating but be very careful when melting and poring much more danger involved in a spill on the foot and you can get a small surface plate for 50 buck s I did at lee valley .I have seen all your work very good you inspire me .thanks .
Hi Cressel, great videos! Im making progress on my “Gingery Shaper from Block” as you can see on my channel. Pretty soon, I’ll be doing leadscrews as well. My book shows the Vertical lead screw on the other side of the machine (right side if looking at it from front). I noticed you put yours on the left side. Any reason you did that? Just asking to take advantage of your knowledge and experience, thanks!
Hello, I notice that you added a aluminum piece behind of your lathe chuck, Why? I ask you the question because I too am building a Gingery metal lathe and I have a problem with the chuck; I find .025" of side play chuck and I am sure that it does not come from bearings, thank you for answering me.
Hello, I notice that you added a piece of aluminum behind your chuck lathe. Why? I ask you the question because I too am building a Gingery metal lathe and I have a problem with the chuck; I find .025 "from side play to the chuck and I'm sure it does not come from the bearings, thank you for answering me.
I plan to upgrade the bearings...mine actually have a considerable amount of slop. I used aluminum, because I didn't want to buy a 4" steel disk 1/2" thick. I can cast one of aluminum very easily. Best of luck with your project.
Makercise Yes, I saw that you had difficulty with this bearings; So, I put front car bearings wheels bought from Amazon (7.22$) and it works very well, you could even install them on your lathe. Here is the link: www.amazon.com/CURT-23209-Wheel-Bearing-Kit/dp/B00XRSIUPY. Good lock all yours projects.
Have you considered using wax filament to 3d print parts to cast using the lost wax method? Those small cranks seem like they would be perfect for lost wax. I know you tried PLA, perhaps the lower melt temperature of wax would subject the mold to less stress.
That makes sense, I'd not seen lost pla done before. But looking into it now it looks like a pretty successful method. I bet you'll get it working without to much trouble.
Ok if your gonna do iron castings can you show us how we could find Iron naturally? Like I have seen a way to get some from iron oxide like water like orange mud, also Prusa is a good printer
Hi! Greetings from Brazil! I'm searching for information on buld Gingery lathe an discover your chanel. It's amazing, congrats! One question: what the amount of aluminium do I need for the entire project? Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge!
clamping (split) MUCH better than set screws, especially for materials weak that are in tension (your castings), plus it wont mar the surface, and generally no need for a flat spot. Most don't realize the forces a screw can generate a long it's length axis. (a high ratio helical ramp/wedge!)
yeah i was thinking about your cast handle w/ the set screw good channel I like it! Someday you should see what it would take to get all the raw materials you need from the earth and then try casting from that.
Why threaded rod and not proper Acme thread rod stock? you could buy bronze and the correct size Acme-thread tap for the "nuts" and do it right? I mean, theres a reason why no machines have standard Imperial or metric threads for lead screws.....
Because the entire point of all the machines in the Gingery series is building them cheaply with commonly available (as in 'local hardware store' ) components. Regular threads are good enough for this use.
Are you making a CAD model of this project and your mold patterns for later use? Is there any word from within the Gingery community about machine distortion under normal machining loads effecting accuracy of the work?From your last video it seemed you were taking a pass of ~0.03". My bet is with this machine you'll be taking much smaller passes in order to be accurate. Sorry for the questions, I'm new here.
Please use a soft faced hammer when adjusting machines. Something like a Gedore 8821270. If I can figure out how I will send you one. I do not understand the appeal of cast aluminum machine tools but still there is no reason to go denting them up with a claw hammer :)
Great work as usual. Maybe consider brazing the lead screws or using roll pins to secure them.
I hope you are having fun with this project. Looking good !
I think I figured it out. The vertical lead screw needs to go on the side opposite of the gib screws. Thanks!
I like the way the slides are developing. They look really good! As an improvement to the machine, and most of the series,...The threads could be converted to acme by purchasing the lead screws and nuts from Grainger, or McMaster-Carr. They also have available the nuts in brass. I don't get anything from them...just a good source for a lot of industrial parts and supplies...not a discount house. ALSO...there is another book that goes along with the Gingery "SHOP from SCRAP" .Title is "Back Gears for the Gingery Lathe" by Marvin Guthery, published by David Gingery Publishing. Its a real neat addition to the little lathe. The "Deluxe Accessories" has the change gears and gear train so you could have threading capability... just wanting to keep your fire stoked!!
I have the Back Gears book.
Looks pretty great so far! Happy to see it coming along. You'll be making chips with it soon enough
Thanks maybe within a couple weeks.
Very clever and well done! Thanks for the video.
I am glad to see you say your going to use cast iron next its nice to work with, used motor oil has grate btu rating but be very careful when melting and poring much more danger involved in a spill on the foot and you can get a small surface plate for 50 buck s I did at lee valley .I have seen all your work very good you inspire me .thanks .
Awesome feedback! Thanks
your welcome thanks
Hi Cressel, great videos! Im making progress on my “Gingery Shaper from Block” as you can see on my channel. Pretty soon, I’ll be doing leadscrews as well. My book shows the Vertical lead screw on the other side of the machine (right side if looking at it from front). I noticed you put yours on the left side. Any reason you did that? Just asking to take advantage of your knowledge and experience, thanks!
Hello, I notice that you added a aluminum piece behind of your lathe chuck, Why? I ask you the question because I too am building a Gingery metal lathe and I have a problem with the chuck; I find .025" of side play chuck and I am sure that it does not come from bearings, thank you for answering me.
Hello, I notice that you added a piece of aluminum behind your chuck lathe. Why? I ask you the question because I too am building a Gingery metal lathe and I have a problem with the chuck; I find .025 "from side play to the chuck and I'm sure it does not come from the bearings, thank you for answering me.
I plan to upgrade the bearings...mine actually have a considerable amount of slop. I used aluminum, because I didn't want to buy a 4" steel disk 1/2" thick. I can cast one of aluminum very easily. Best of luck with your project.
Makercise Yes, I saw that you had difficulty with this bearings; So, I put front car bearings wheels bought from Amazon (7.22$) and it works very well, you could even install them on your lathe. Here is the link: www.amazon.com/CURT-23209-Wheel-Bearing-Kit/dp/B00XRSIUPY. Good lock all yours projects.
Have you considered using wax filament to 3d print parts to cast using the lost wax method? Those small cranks seem like they would be perfect for lost wax. I know you tried PLA, perhaps the lower melt temperature of wax would subject the mold to less stress.
Haven't really wanted to mess with 3d printing wax. I know some have had success, but I like PLA and would love to get that working.
That makes sense, I'd not seen lost pla done before. But looking into it now it looks like a pretty successful method. I bet you'll get it working without to much trouble.
Ok if your gonna do iron castings can you show us how we could find Iron naturally? Like I have seen a way to get some from iron oxide like water like orange mud, also Prusa is a good printer
Hi! Greetings from Brazil! I'm searching for information on buld Gingery lathe an discover your chanel. It's amazing, congrats! One question: what the amount of aluminium do I need for the entire project? Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge!
Great episode. Very clever.
clamping (split) MUCH better than set screws, especially for materials weak that are in tension (your castings), plus it wont mar the surface, and generally no need for a flat spot. Most don't realize the forces a screw can generate a long it's length axis. (a high ratio helical ramp/wedge!)
Oh yeh. Pretty much all the prusa parts were clamp style...only a handful of direct thread. I certainly don’t think they tried to tap the holes.
yeah i was thinking about your cast handle w/ the set screw good channel I like it! Someday you should see what it would take to get all the raw materials you need from the earth and then try casting from that.
Do the threaded-rod couplers reduce the total overall left-to-right travel? (Awesome work, btw, as usual)
No, just the simplest way I could think to get smooth ends that go through the supports. Thanks!
Perdona la arena de mar funciona para moldes de aluminio, gracias
Why threaded rod and not proper Acme thread rod stock? you could buy bronze and the correct size Acme-thread tap for the "nuts" and do it right? I mean, theres a reason why no machines have standard Imperial or metric threads for lead screws.....
Because the entire point of all the machines in the Gingery series is building them cheaply with commonly available (as in 'local hardware store' ) components. Regular threads are good enough for this use.
Are you making a CAD model of this project and your mold patterns for later use? Is there any word from within the Gingery community about machine distortion under normal machining loads effecting accuracy of the work?From your last video it seemed you were taking a pass of ~0.03". My bet is with this machine you'll be taking much smaller passes in order to be accurate. Sorry for the questions, I'm new here.
I do have a CAD model in fusion 360. I am almost exclusively using lost foam at this point. Yes it was getting to be a very healthy cut.
Please use a soft faced hammer when adjusting machines. Something like a Gedore 8821270. If I can figure out how I will send you one. I do not understand the appeal of cast aluminum machine tools but still there is no reason to go denting them up with a claw hammer :)
I have moved up to ZA-12 for the mill parts I am casting. If you want to send me a hammer, email me.
Good episode. Top
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