There is something so refreshing about a sharp blade, once you get into sharpening, there's like building a tolerance to a certain sharpness, and then the thrill becomes getting it even sharper. The lapping films are fun.
Ar-r-gh! Been using lapping film for a few years. Albeit, I only use them as a finish stropping action. Only recently have I purchased lapping plates. Yep. They are fragile. anyway I am happy to find that you addressed lapping film.
Hi Ryky, I’m have to say it, your videos has been so hepful, I’m a beginer knifemaker and I wanted to sharp my knives with stones, because I think that is the way for a handmade knife. I started with three stones, MinoSharp, 240, 1000 and 6000 grit...still learning but my knives cuts....Thanks for making this videos
Cheap solution. found some granite counter top. used the SAME lapping paper to lap them together, and made 4 plates double sided out of 1 inch thick granite
Good video and advice. Thanks. In my opinion sharpening on a whetstone is a pleasure. Besides I am with you : beyond 1um is a little bit beyond necessity.
Rikky, I really appreciated if you can shoot one video with Arkansas stones in action. Knife sharpening is my hobby last 4 years mostly thanks to you and your beautiful work. Maybe I'm blind, but I didn't find any video like that on your channel. Greetings from sunny Serbia.
I bought three Atoma plates (140, 600, 1200), 400/1000 Pebblestone stone, Scary glass plate system, Burrfection leather strop, Arkansas oil stones and have 3M sandpaper grit up to 2000. I should buy a 3000 or 5000 stone and thinking about buying a Japanese natural polishing L3.5 or L4. I know sounds like overkill but, I have lot of time because on the current lockdown.
So, I keep seeing online that sharpening above a 3000 grit is not recommended if you are going to be slicing protein because it will cause the edge to roll, or it will reduce how long your edge is retained, and that the fattier the meat, the quicker it happens. You should test this out to see how edge retention is affected by higher grits.
that seems rather counter intuitive since the edge's ability to roll would relate to edge geometry. Finer grits would just make you achieve a more consistent geometry. That is unless the unevenness amounts to micro serrations which might help cut?! Still seems kind of weird.
Maybe you can help me. I was using a leather strop with green compound after 2000 grit stones and it was working great. However I recently got a full set of kme sharpening films to .1 micron for mirror edges. I need to make something cheap that I can maintain a .1 micron edge with between sharpening. If I use the green compound if fogs up my mirror edge. Do you know of any cheap spray or compound that goes down to 160,000 grit? Or films maybe that I could stick to bulsa or leather?
have you tried sharpening a knife using a angle grinder with paper wheels i think that would be cool to see. A comparison of a angle grinder sharpen and a whetstone sharpen
I looked up the 1 micron film and I can't find any here in Switzerland and it's also not listed on the 3M website. Anybody knows if it has been discontinued?
Quick question and hopefully someone who knows a little more than me can help me but I’m thinking of making one of these plates with a high grit like 14,000 grit paper and the use will mostly be to strop on it, do you think I need lubricant or can I just use it dry? Thanks in advance for even reading this haha
What's the abrasive material? I've done a little search on official 3M website and found out that there are at least 4 different materials: Chromium Oxide, Aluminum Oxide, Silicon Dioxide and Diamond. I've seen great results on guided sharpening systems like KME and Wicked Edge using diamond lapping films to strop/polish the edge bevel. Personally I've tried Aluminum Oxide ranging from 3 micron to 0.3 micron, and found out that they are way too slow cutting on most of the powder steel I've used on- a 3 micron lapping film took even less material than my balsa strop loaded with 0.5 micron diamond compound. I've tried both wet and dry, none of which work out the way I want.
BTW I deburr and finish my edge on DMT 8000 Grit- roughly a 3 micron stone. 6 micron diamond paste cleans up the scratch pattern nicely, and 3 micron diamond starts to bring out a near mirror polish so I can keep on polishing.
i believe all of the sheets 40, 15, and 5 micron are silicon carbide, and 1 and .3 micron are aluminum oxide. i got them here so you should be able to sift them out as well burrfections.com/3MFilm . on speed, that is why i suggested them for stropping / polishing. rather than sharpening. speed will suffer on higher end knives. will try them on SG2 and ZDP and post findings soon
@@Burrfection I basically do all-diamond sharpening, so lapping films are for stropping and removing scratch patterns only. Based on my experience non-diamond abrasives suffer at speed if you are not just trying to get it sharp, but also achieving a true mirror polish, especially on carbide-rich steels. I understand trying to mirror-polish edge bevels is probably uncommon when it comes to kitchen knives, but I sharpen all kinds of knives, kitchen knives or pocket knives alike.
yeah i get it. 3m does make a diamond lapping sheet, but they cost ...... $50 a sheet? i have some on order and will see if they are worth the 10X price increase. probably NOT, but if they are last 2-3X longer, and can handle 63+ HRC knives, they may be worth it.
Diamond lapping films are not really available in my country, and they often come in discs, which is not an ideal shape for sharpening knives, so I can't test it myself. Now I use diamond compound that "jumps back" a bit in grit size, like a 6 micron strop after a 3 micron stone to clean up the scratch. Not perfect, but the best I can do for now.
Been watching quite a few of your videos for a couple weeks, incredibly interesting, I don't currently have any good chef knives, wondering if I could get similar results using the combination of sharpening stones and sheets on a hunting knife as you do with your chef knives
Are the carbon fiber sheets still available? I noticed that they were not present at your kit.com site. I’d love to make a set of these, thanks for sharing your idea!
You definitely can, but your success will be affected by a) the stone's grit level and quality, b) the knife's steel, and c) your skill level. But if the stone is in the 1000 grit range, that would be a great place to start! Ryky has plenty of good videos on this channel for those "new to sharpening"!
As other said, you can, and succes will most likely be limited by some factors (a big one is muscle memory; do it right or don't do it at all, because you can't easily unlearn that) I suggest you watch a couple of ryky's videos, that's how I started. Also, just take it slow and right. Speed will come later if results are good.
Question, What whetstones would you advise for a simple homecook who is an absolute noob in knifesharpening? I use a 20cm wusthof Classic knife, and some cheap ones. Would I need 500 or lower, or 2000 or higher? Tnx for all the content. Quite much for a beginner to find te right information in the right video, but time well spent ;-)
Question: what should the relationship be between a whetstone grit and the grit of a lapping plate to flatten it? What happens if you use a 400 grit Atoma to flatten a 3000 grit stone? Thanks!!
Question,, Can you please talk about the Shuns Nakiri? I own one and its one sided angle. is there any ways to make it sharper? should i just try stropping on a newspaper? thank you.
so do the lapping films actually sharpen your knife or do they just leave a mirror finish? right now all my knives are at a king 6k grit finish then stropped on .5 micron diamond paste and they are very sharp but i’m wondering if i can increase the level of sharpness with the lapping film or will it just leave a mirror edge and not make it any sharper?
damnit. I'm trying to learn how to do this and everyones doing different techniques. *Question* Can you drag the blade in both directions on the film?? I thought you cant but it seems like he's doing that?
I'm no expert by any means so take this with a grain of salt. I think you're not supposed to forward stroke on these because you risk cutting the paper if the blade catches on it but because he is so good at sharpening and has so much practice that he is able to do it.
@@Idiotman44 hmm possibly, yeah I know you shouldn't cut against it but maybe your right, like he is so delicate and precise he can do that... pretty cool if thats whats happening
Hello Ryky. Could you review Nexus BD1N 8in Chef's knife. You had rope test for it but no full review yet. I'm planning to buy it but I saw few bad comments on this knife (about sharpennes out of the box, thick blade "spine", etc). I do not see it among your recomended knifes (you don't like it? :-) ).
Awesome... thank you so much! Have a chosera 600 and 1,000. Will be using these films to finish. Have read before not to get the PSA backing. Just film. Your take? Greg
psa backed make it easy to attach to any substrate like plexiglass. if you get non-psa. they will work but you have to find a way to attach them. water CAN work for limited surfaces burrfections.com/3MFilm
Water works if you have truly flat surfaces like glass. Some prefer non psa cause they want true flatness with zero give on the surface so they don't micro-convex the edge unintentionally, like if you are sharpening straight razors then you would probably notice the difference, if not then then it doesn't really matter.
Hi Ricky I had trouble putting the lapping film on the aluminiium plates Ibought any tips on placing the film on avoiding air bubbles . I have been saving up to buy my son in law a set of water stones but your idea of a mix of water stones and lapping film will be much cheaper option thank you once again for another informative video . Regards Dean From Oz
this should work with PSA backed or non-psa backed. try wetting the film, and then when applying, start on one side and press it down inch by inch. you can also use a credit card to do it. add water on top as well, which will allow everything to move easier.
I am into woodworking and need an efficient way to sharpen hand plane irons, chisels, and knife blades at very specific angles... how do you think this film will hold up with the constant use of a roller jig against it? Thanks!
I'm getting into sharpening straight razors, and I was looking to buy an 8000 grit whetstone. For a razor that isnt already shaving ready (I'm restoring one and it was in bad shape) do you think one of these plates with 3 micron paper would work until I have the cash for a whetstone?
I'm not Ryky but unless you are sharpening 100 blades per day, stones, whether man-made or natural, should survive multiple generations provided they are not abused. In other words, if you are a 'normal, average user', your grandson will love that one-of-a-kind stone that he inherits. Of course, finding that one-in-a-kind stone takes some doing these days.
very intresting but... if someone spend over 300$ for japan knife should buy simple japan stone for 25$. But I thing its very good idea for cheap knifes.
Thanks, Ryky! I was thinking about trying some of the very coarse stuff (50 and 120 micron), because I sometimes sharpen crappy knives for other people and don't want to spend the time or wear on my Naniwa Professional 800. I noticed you doing a "push pull" method… would you be concerned with cutting the film?
when "pulling" edge leading, as long as you don't pull ALONG length-wise of blade, it should be fine. if you watch closely, i pull with VERY slight angle to avoid that. also, with honing oil, there is a lot less grab between knife and film
for these films, it doesn't matter too much. i was only playing around with oil for the video. normally, i use water, since oil can get messy, but if you only has 3-4 drops, it lubricates it JUST enough. the nice thing about oil, is that you don't need to reapply as much as water. but if you don't have any, water will work just fine
when you are deburring, do the the first few strokes like you are stropping(moving away from the edge), once the burr is gone, you can sharpen like you are using a stone as long as there is some lube on it. Oil is prefered if you you want to "glide" along the surface better, otherwise water works just fine.
Thanks guys. I have some oil from a few years back that I never opened that I could try. Ryky, I think I misunderstood your angle comment… were you saying that you pull at a more acute bevel angle than when you push?
Gidday mate Iv followed your links to buy this kit but the abrasives won’t ship to New Zealand Would you build a kit with the oil and either ship to Nz or chuck it up on your Etsy Cheers Kiwisteve
i make the carbon fiber plates kit.com/Burrfection/burrfection-gear-strops you can get the sheets here burrfections.com/3MFilm, you can pick you own grit levels.
haha no way great minds think alike lol . here's another site to look on knives in the uk can be pricey but hey you got to have a vice . you have a knife I've been trying to get a hold of from yanagi knife your sakai akazawa chou ao style
... why are nakiris so ez to find but usubas so hard to come by Single Bevel blades are Sooooo simple to sharpen not much skill required... i want that
hi ricky.. i have a question.. 1.how to know your whetstone type. artificial, natural or oil stone.. 2. what to do if your whetstone hard to make slurry..
wish would of known this before buying a shapton glass 30k stone xDD oh well, i still enjoy the mirror finish i get with the 30k.... even though i get a practically identical mirror finish with my 12k xDD.
ah good I was looking into getting one but wondered what your thoughts were on them heres a site for you to have a look on a little company making hand made knives very nice looking I know how much you appreciate good craftsman's ship www.blenheimforge.co.uk
Fixed angle systems can get extremely sharp with correct skills and grit progression. Most people can get down to 100ish BESS unit with a sub one micron finish effortlessly with those systems. For my experience the flexibility is a bit limited, like Lansky is limited in angle adjustment, or in WE, KME or systems that utilize clamp systems, you may run into some issue trying to sharpen anything longer than maybe 6" without frequently reclamping the blade. Edge pro mar the blade finish with water stones if you don't tape the blade properly, and fixed angle systems sometimes have difficulty with blade tips or plunge grind(aka bolster in kitchen knives) if you are not skilled enough.
have you tried sharpening a knife using a angle grinder with paper wheels i think that would be cool to see. A comparison of a angle grinder sharpen and a whetstone sharpen
Just 8 likes? why did this happen?
haha. it's life.
The most informative guy on sharping on the net hands down . Happy Trails and thnks you have saved me a fortune over the years.
just doing best
There is something so refreshing about a sharp blade, once you get into sharpening, there's like building a tolerance to a certain sharpness, and then the thrill becomes getting it even sharper. The lapping films are fun.
Ar-r-gh! Been using lapping film for a few years. Albeit, I only use them as a finish stropping action. Only recently have I purchased lapping plates. Yep. They are fragile. anyway I am happy to find that you addressed lapping film.
I got these on Amazon. Great size and no cutting or anything required. They work great!
Being able to use forward strokes on these freehand is an impressive level of control.
I would be more than happy to help free up some space on your workbench. 😁
Thanks for the vid, Ryky.
Hi Ryky, I’m have to say it, your videos has been so hepful, I’m a beginer knifemaker and I wanted to sharp my knives with stones, because I think that is the way for a handmade knife. I started with three stones, MinoSharp, 240, 1000 and 6000 grit...still learning but my knives cuts....Thanks for making this videos
I don't see the carbon fiber plates in the link you provided. Can you provide an updated link? Thanks
I would also appreciate this information Ryky, thanks.
Cheap solution. found some granite counter top. used the SAME lapping paper to lap them together, and made 4 plates double sided out of 1 inch thick granite
I just got a set of the film in yesterday and hope to put together my own plates next week. Thanks for the update
Hi Riky, Do you have a link to purchase the carbon fiber plates? Love your channel dude!!
I would also appreciate this information Ryky, thanks.
@@roberthazelwood1617 - Is he keeping it a secret or what?
He said he had some metalworker guy made it for him, you can imagine there's pretty much no other use for a weird rectangle shapes metal plate
Good video and advice. Thanks.
In my opinion sharpening on a whetstone is a pleasure. Besides I am with you : beyond 1um is a little bit beyond necessity.
Lee valley has diamond Lapping Films for those high hrc and high Vanadium steels.
Tactical Center could the diamond lapping paper be used for stone flattening?
@@jonl4899 no they cannot. You have to be very light with them alone on knives. You probably want an atoma plate.
Rikky, I really appreciated if you can shoot one video with Arkansas stones in action. Knife sharpening is my hobby last 4 years mostly thanks to you and your beautiful work. Maybe I'm blind, but I didn't find any video like that on your channel.
Greetings from sunny Serbia.
still got my “gen 1” plates hah. actually every iteration of your strops have been great!
The best way I found to make the sheets last longer is to use the white hi polymer erasers to remove the metal fowling.
I bought three Atoma plates (140, 600, 1200), 400/1000 Pebblestone stone, Scary glass plate system, Burrfection leather strop, Arkansas oil stones and have 3M sandpaper grit up to 2000. I should buy a 3000 or 5000 stone and thinking about buying a Japanese natural polishing L3.5 or L4. I know sounds like overkill but, I have lot of time because on the current lockdown.
Try Windex with a couple drops of Dawn dish soap!
Great video again. I am interested in your give away for your old stuff for sure. Put me in the loop for that.
FINALLY!!! Been waiting so long
Do you still sell the CF Plates?
I see that 3M has PSA "Diamond" lapping film & AO lapping film...and recommendations?
So, I keep seeing online that sharpening above a 3000 grit is not recommended if you are going to be slicing protein because it will cause the edge to roll, or it will reduce how long your edge is retained, and that the fattier the meat, the quicker it happens. You should test this out to see how edge retention is affected by higher grits.
that seems rather counter intuitive since the edge's ability to roll would relate to edge geometry. Finer grits would just make you achieve a more consistent geometry. That is unless the unevenness amounts to micro serrations which might help cut?! Still seems kind of weird.
If you have any strops you no longer require I would be very grateful to receive one. Great channel thank you!
Maybe you can help me. I was using a leather strop with green compound after 2000 grit stones and it was working great. However I recently got a full set of kme sharpening films to .1 micron for mirror edges. I need to make something cheap that I can maintain a .1 micron edge with between sharpening. If I use the green compound if fogs up my mirror edge. Do you know of any cheap spray or compound that goes down to 160,000 grit? Or films maybe that I could stick to bulsa or leather?
have you tried sharpening a knife using a angle grinder with paper wheels i think that would be cool to see. A comparison of a angle grinder sharpen and a whetstone sharpen
Love your vids
thanks for watching!
Where and how can we buy these pilakas? It is very difficult to reach them in Turkey. Can you please help me?
Ryky,
Are the side you attached film to smooth? Hoping no pattern that may press through film.
This is actually a very good tip mate ☺️
I looked up the 1 micron film and I can't find any here in Switzerland and it's also not listed on the 3M website. Anybody knows if it has been discontinued?
Now, is it replaceable, like, can it be peeled without leaving sticky residue which can affects the flattenness?
yes, as long as you remove right after use. leaving them for days/weeks will result in clumping on PSA back
@@Burrfection if anything you can always just wash it with a something to remove the sitcky mess
Quick question and hopefully someone who knows a little more than me can help me but I’m thinking of making one of these plates with a high grit like 14,000 grit paper and the use will mostly be to strop on it, do you think I need lubricant or can I just use it dry? Thanks in advance for even reading this haha
What's the abrasive material? I've done a little search on official 3M website and found out that there are at least 4 different materials: Chromium Oxide, Aluminum Oxide, Silicon Dioxide and Diamond. I've seen great results on guided sharpening systems like KME and Wicked Edge using diamond lapping films to strop/polish the edge bevel. Personally I've tried Aluminum Oxide ranging from 3 micron to 0.3 micron, and found out that they are way too slow cutting on most of the powder steel I've used on- a 3 micron lapping film took even less material than my balsa strop loaded with 0.5 micron diamond compound. I've tried both wet and dry, none of which work out the way I want.
BTW I deburr and finish my edge on DMT 8000 Grit- roughly a 3 micron stone. 6 micron diamond paste cleans up the scratch pattern nicely, and 3 micron diamond starts to bring out a near mirror polish so I can keep on polishing.
i believe all of the sheets 40, 15, and 5 micron are silicon carbide, and 1 and .3 micron are aluminum oxide. i got them here so you should be able to sift them out as well burrfections.com/3MFilm . on speed, that is why i suggested them for stropping / polishing. rather than sharpening. speed will suffer on higher end knives. will try them on SG2 and ZDP and post findings soon
@@Burrfection I basically do all-diamond sharpening, so lapping films are for stropping and removing scratch patterns only. Based on my experience non-diamond abrasives suffer at speed if you are not just trying to get it sharp, but also achieving a true mirror polish, especially on carbide-rich steels. I understand trying to mirror-polish edge bevels is probably uncommon when it comes to kitchen knives, but I sharpen all kinds of knives, kitchen knives or pocket knives alike.
yeah i get it. 3m does make a diamond lapping sheet, but they cost ...... $50 a sheet? i have some on order and will see if they are worth the 10X price increase. probably NOT, but if they are last 2-3X longer, and can handle 63+ HRC knives, they may be worth it.
Diamond lapping films are not really available in my country, and they often come in discs, which is not an ideal shape for sharpening knives, so I can't test it myself. Now I use diamond compound that "jumps back" a bit in grit size, like a 6 micron strop after a 3 micron stone to clean up the scratch. Not perfect, but the best I can do for now.
Been watching quite a few of your videos for a couple weeks, incredibly interesting, I don't currently have any good chef knives, wondering if I could get similar results using the combination of sharpening stones and sheets on a hunting knife as you do with your chef knives
Are the carbon fiber sheets still available? I noticed that they were not present at your kit.com site. I’d love to make a set of these, thanks for sharing your idea!
How did the acrylic hold up? I’m about to order 1/4 inch glass to put them on to. Should I go for acrylic or glass?
I love your videos bro
Im new to sharpening with wet stones and i have a dull hunting knife, am i able to use a wet stone to sharpen it?
You definitely can, but your success will be affected by a) the stone's grit level and quality, b) the knife's steel, and c) your skill level. But if the stone is in the 1000 grit range, that would be a great place to start! Ryky has plenty of good videos on this channel for those "new to sharpening"!
Also depends on the shape of the knife. If you have any amount of recurve you might need to approach it a little differently.
As other said, you can, and succes will most likely be limited by some factors (a big one is muscle memory; do it right or don't do it at all, because you can't easily unlearn that)
I suggest you watch a couple of ryky's videos, that's how I started. Also, just take it slow and right. Speed will come later if results are good.
Great Video man
Question, What whetstones would you advise for a simple homecook who is an absolute noob in knifesharpening? I use a 20cm wusthof Classic knife, and some cheap ones. Would I need 500 or lower, or 2000 or higher? Tnx for all the content. Quite much for a beginner to find te right information in the right video, but time well spent ;-)
BEST PLACE TO BUY 3M PSA PAPER? another great video
Question: what should the relationship be between a whetstone grit and the grit of a lapping plate to flatten it? What happens if you use a 400 grit Atoma to flatten a 3000 grit stone? Thanks!!
Do they have lapping film at hardware stores?
Question,, Can you please talk about the Shuns Nakiri? I own one and its one sided angle. is there any ways to make it sharper? should i just try stropping on a newspaper? thank you.
so do the lapping films actually sharpen your knife or do they just leave a mirror finish? right now all my knives are at a king 6k grit finish then stropped on .5 micron diamond paste and they are very sharp but i’m wondering if i can increase the level of sharpness with the lapping film or will it just leave a mirror edge and not make it any sharper?
Have you done a flatness test on the carbon fiber base, across the full face of base?
damnit. I'm trying to learn how to do this and everyones doing different techniques. *Question* Can you drag the blade in both directions on the film?? I thought you cant but it seems like he's doing that?
I'm no expert by any means so take this with a grain of salt.
I think you're not supposed to forward stroke on these because you risk cutting the paper if the blade catches on it but because he is so good at sharpening and has so much practice that he is able to do it.
@@Idiotman44 hmm possibly, yeah I know you shouldn't cut against it but maybe your right, like he is so delicate and precise he can do that... pretty cool if thats whats happening
Hello Ryky. Could you review Nexus BD1N 8in Chef's knife. You had rope test for it but no full review yet. I'm planning to buy it but I saw few bad comments on this knife (about sharpennes out of the box, thick blade "spine", etc). I do not see it among your recomended knifes (you don't like it? :-) ).
Where can one find the carbon fiber plates?
Awesome... thank you so much! Have a chosera 600 and 1,000. Will be using these films to finish. Have read before not to get the PSA backing. Just film. Your take? Greg
I almost forgot... thank you for what you do! Learned so much! Greg
psa backed make it easy to attach to any substrate like plexiglass. if you get non-psa. they will work but you have to find a way to attach them. water CAN work for limited surfaces burrfections.com/3MFilm
Water works if you have truly flat surfaces like glass. Some prefer non psa cause they want true flatness with zero give on the surface so they don't micro-convex the edge unintentionally, like if you are sharpening straight razors then you would probably notice the difference, if not then then it doesn't really matter.
Hi Ricky I had trouble putting the lapping film on the aluminiium plates Ibought any tips on placing the film on avoiding air bubbles . I have been saving up to buy my son in law a set of water stones but your idea of a mix of water stones and lapping film will be much cheaper option thank you once again for another informative video . Regards Dean From Oz
this should work with PSA backed or non-psa backed. try wetting the film, and then when applying, start on one side and press it down inch by inch. you can also use a credit card to do it. add water on top as well, which will allow everything to move easier.
Try use soap water... same method to install tint film
I am into woodworking and need an efficient way to sharpen hand plane irons, chisels, and knife blades at very specific angles... how do you think this film will hold up with the constant use of a roller jig against it? Thanks!
my knives get about dozen uses per sheets. i'm guessing wood tools.... MIGHT NOT get as much. probably half that
@@Burrfection thank you for the fast reply! I've really been enjoying your videos! Thank you for all the useful info!
I'm getting into sharpening straight razors, and I was looking to buy an 8000 grit whetstone. For a razor that isnt already shaving ready (I'm restoring one and it was in bad shape) do you think one of these plates with 3 micron paper would work until I have the cash for a whetstone?
Can flattening stones / lapping plates be created in a similar way?
The link to the carbon fiber plates doesn't seem to work...
kit.com/Burrfection/burrfection-gear-strops
Can't find them there🙁
I'm trying to figure out the long term value proposition here. How long do higher grit (4000+) whetstones normally last in comparison?
I'm not Ryky but unless you are sharpening 100 blades per day, stones, whether man-made or natural, should survive multiple generations provided they are not abused. In other words, if you are a 'normal, average user', your grandson will love that one-of-a-kind stone that he inherits. Of course, finding that one-in-a-kind stone takes some doing these days.
very intresting but... if someone spend over 300$ for japan knife should buy simple japan stone for 25$. But I thing its very good idea for cheap knifes.
they have 0.1 micron too.
And why it's all aluminium oxide and not diamond powder in your amazon pit?
What is that bracelet you wear in almost every video?
Thanks, Ryky! I was thinking about trying some of the very coarse stuff (50 and 120 micron), because I sometimes sharpen crappy knives for other people and don't want to spend the time or wear on my Naniwa Professional 800.
I noticed you doing a "push pull" method… would you be concerned with cutting the film?
when "pulling" edge leading, as long as you don't pull ALONG length-wise of blade, it should be fine. if you watch closely, i pull with VERY slight angle to avoid that. also, with honing oil, there is a lot less grab between knife and film
So you prefer honing oil to water for the film? I switch hands when I switch sides, so I think I'll be OK with the angle.
for these films, it doesn't matter too much. i was only playing around with oil for the video. normally, i use water, since oil can get messy, but if you only has 3-4 drops, it lubricates it JUST enough. the nice thing about oil, is that you don't need to reapply as much as water. but if you don't have any, water will work just fine
when you are deburring, do the the first few strokes like you are stropping(moving away from the edge), once the burr is gone, you can sharpen like you are using a stone as long as there is some lube on it. Oil is prefered if you you want to "glide" along the surface better, otherwise water works just fine.
Thanks guys. I have some oil from a few years back that I never opened that I could try.
Ryky, I think I misunderstood your angle comment… were you saying that you pull at a more acute bevel angle than when you push?
Great advice thanks. Subscribing now :) Will keep an eye out for your giveaway of your old strops :)
3M seems to not sell them anymore, or at least not to Canada. Do you have any alternative recommendations?
kit.com/Burrfection/burrfection-gear-strops
Gidday mate
Iv followed your links to buy this kit but the abrasives won’t ship to New Zealand
Would you build a kit with the oil and either ship to Nz or chuck it up on your Etsy
Cheers
Kiwisteve
kit.com/Burrfection/burrfection-gear-strops
You make it very hard to buy from you, I just want you webpage to look and purchase as I do with others.
ru going to sell these plates and set ups if so when and how much cheers cool vids
i make the carbon fiber plates kit.com/Burrfection/burrfection-gear-strops
you can get the sheets here burrfections.com/3MFilm, you can pick you own grit levels.
ah ok tyvm fella how about making your own sink bridges that I would like to see you try and make
haha. got one on the way
haha no way great minds think alike lol . here's another site to look on knives in the uk can be pricey but hey you got to have a vice . you have a knife I've been trying to get a hold of from yanagi knife your sakai akazawa chou ao style
craig sayer will be ready in 2 weeks kit.com/Burrfection/burrfection-gear-strops
Hi
... why are nakiris so ez to find but usubas so hard to come by Single Bevel blades are Sooooo simple to sharpen not much skill required... i want that
Do you still have some more plates?
burrfection.com/products/demo-units
hi ricky.. i have a question.. 1.how to know your whetstone type. artificial, natural or oil stone.. 2. what to do if your whetstone hard to make slurry..
or anybody would like to answer this?
wish would of known this before buying a shapton glass 30k stone xDD
oh well, i still enjoy the mirror finish i get with the 30k....
even though i get a practically identical mirror finish with my 12k xDD.
hey rycky have you tried the edge pro or any device like it if so what are your thoughts on them and do you think there worth the money to invest in ?
yeah, have an edge pro, wicked edge and lanky that will be getting reviews soon
ah good I was looking into getting one but wondered what your thoughts were on them heres a site for you to have a look on a little company making hand made knives very nice looking I know how much you appreciate good craftsman's ship www.blenheimforge.co.uk
nice but maybe a bit pricey.
yeah maybe but there very nicely made and great looking I love the copper ferrule makes a change to buffalo
Fixed angle systems can get extremely sharp with correct skills and grit progression. Most people can get down to 100ish BESS unit with a sub one micron finish effortlessly with those systems. For my experience the flexibility is a bit limited, like Lansky is limited in angle adjustment, or in WE, KME or systems that utilize clamp systems, you may run into some issue trying to sharpen anything longer than maybe 6" without frequently reclamping the blade. Edge pro mar the blade finish with water stones if you don't tape the blade properly, and fixed angle systems sometimes have difficulty with blade tips or plunge grind(aka bolster in kitchen knives) if you are not skilled enough.
What's the cost of the carbon plates themselves?
i have a few plates left in a kit kit.com/Burrfection/burrfection-gear-strops
:O
hi! your videos might have been used without permission
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you might wanna approach them to remove it
have you tried sharpening a knife using a angle grinder with paper wheels i think that would be cool to see. A comparison of a angle grinder sharpen and a whetstone sharpen