I’m just beginning into this stuff and have a bathroom I’m re-doing and have a lot of large holes I’ve patched with mud and sanded including the rest of the old painted parts, do I need to put primer on the patched areas only? Or the whole wall?
What if you are removing Popcorn Ceilings? I got quotes, with or without primer, and it was $5000 extra "if needed". This was for smokers in house. Do I need?
Agreed I watch his videos all the time he's so knowledgeable helped me so much around my place made it so I'm not afraid to jump in and try my own projects
Literally you just saved me $67. On a gal of primer I was almost talked into at Lowe’s !!! I ended up spending $13.47 for drywall primer !! Thank you !!
PVA primers are used because they are inexpensive, not because they are the best primer. Any finish coat with sheen to it will no look good with only one coat over PVA. However, a more premium prier would probably be fine with a flat, eggshell, or even satin. A really good paint job still requires a primer and 2 finish coats when using paints with sheen.
Idk man if you spray PVA I don’t see the problem. PVA is my go to for new drywall if your rolling and want something inexpensive try Killz 2 or for better results try Killz restoration that stuff is solid! 20 years experience painting
Kilz adhesive. I found it to paint latex over 25yr yellowed oil based moulding. Worked like a charm. Put leftovers on a semi gloss to flat wall. No Peeling! It’s my favorite now.
🙋🏻♂️question: what about a room renovation that has a ton of repairs and joint compound all over? I bought kilz 2, put one coat on, and it started lifting the compound off the wall😭 I’m desperate to know what would be a good choice for primer so I can get through this project already. I’ve re repaired these spots and don’t want it to happen again, I’m worried it’s all been compromised and about rewetting any of it with another water based primer but I’m not really digging the idea of using oil based. Kilz recommends their original oil primer since there was a problem and they were great about taking care of me with the problem I had…… I’m not really a fan of using kilz original though inside if I don’t have to, the stuff reeks
I don’t use any other type of kilz. Once, I finally gave up trying to primer the interior of a new garage after 6 gallons. The drywall kept drinking it. Couldn’t get it even, it was horrible. Adhesive covers all my patching. I almost never paint a wall without mud & texture patches.
Any PVA would work for new drywall but if you think water is the reason your having the peeling issues oil base is the way to go Killz original is my go too..BIN smells way more just to achieve the same goal. Killz is cheaper too save your money!
Another great thing about shellac based primer is it sticks to silicone. Very useful when you need to paint over silicone caulking. A lot of installers use clear, wipe it down thinking it's completely gone and it's not then it becomes a nightmare for the painter.
@@michaeljames9336 XIM has a UMA that sticks to non-ideally-pintable surfaces, but its probably better to not use silicone if it needs to be painted, and that stuff is like 50% more than a normal primer
Jeff, I have been watching your videos for about a year now. My husband and I finally bought our first home last year and we are just getting around to start to paint. I am addicted to all your videos and it makes me feel like I can accomplish any DIY project (within reason lol). As an older woman though, I am a little skeptical of what I can actually do. My husband is more of the computer person, so a lot of this will be on me, unless I need the muscle :) I will let you know how it goes. Thank you for sharing years of talent, artistry, and experience. Cheers!
I would also recommend Zinsser bullseye 123 because of its versatility. 1. Seals patches and puts a good foundation over old or stained surfaces (not sure about mold likely need something stronger) 2. It’s a true white unlike most primers that dry grey-ish so if you are going to a white only need one coat over this. 3. Actually seals wood before latex. I would do this only for interiors on bare trim or doors. I was a firm believer in oil priming bare wood before latex, but this stuff seems to bond well (scratch tested) to wood so don’t be afraid to try it. Comes in gray if you want to make a nice canvas for anything dark.
Late comment, but the Zinsser Cover Stain product shown in this video is not the shellac-based can, it is regular oil primer. The shellac based Zinsser product has a red color scheme on the can. Might help someone who isn’t familiar.
I have a hard time learning, it's 4am i just woke up,, you literally just taught me 1000 things on primer I never knew, and I was able to retain the info! Very good video thank you! Your knowledge is easily digestible for me!
On new drywall, you should back-roll right after spraying to introduce an even surface throughout. If you don't, the drywalled portion will have a smoother finish than the paper portion of the drywall.
I enjoy your videos. I wouldn't say Cover Stain is shellac. BIN is white pigmented shellac. I prefer BIN for the smoked up or water stained INTERIOR room - it dries so much faster and you can sand it very soon if you need to. Plus clean up is with ammonia and hot water. Believe me, I've used 100's of gallons of Cover Stain, it has its place, but Inside, on top of old oil base paint, stains, and smoke, BIN is the only way to go. (BTW, Maryland has banned the sale of it recently, go figure.) I will also say Benjamin Moore's 094 Primer is what I use on exterior bare or previously painted in oil - woodwork and is similar to Cover Stain.
Great video. You add sanity to the work,as in,if a person follows your advice, they won't go insane! That and the fact that you remove doubt by being honest. thanks much
Thanks for so much great info. I would love to see a video explaining the cleaning and upkeep needed to keep a spray paint machine in good shape for a long time. I have always been hesitant about the spray machines because I fear that If I don't clean it correctly, it will just turn into a block of dry paint and never work anymore. I think a video explaining that would be great and very popular.
@@hoonyur5973 the guys in the store (SF Bay Area) will often give you the contractor discount if you ask. I think you're correct; the street price was above $100.
@@hoonyur5973 Get a contractor friend. Everybody has one. Put it on their account. It helps them out because you're buying more product under their name and you both get discounts.
I can confirm this Sherwin rapes DIYers on paint! Use some ones account to get a better deal.. I’m a painting contractor and I get more than 50%off paint at SW. Or just ask an associate nicely to put in an account to get a discount 9 times out of 10 they are nice enough to do you a solid.
WORST mess I got myself into. Bought a fixer with plaster walls and 40 years of nicotine stained walls. TSP'ed all the walls/trim, then sprayed a water based kills. Everything bled through with brown stains. Sprayed another coat and same thing. Stepped it up to spraying oil based kills and it covered. I was high as a kite though since I used the wrong filter on the respirator. Shellac primer would have been ideal, BUT I did not want to destroy my sprayer.
I dealt with the same. 35 years of smoking in the house. Pass #1: Painted the interior with a good combination paint+primer. The smoke tar bled through. Pass #2: Painted it again with the same stuff and got the same results. Diagnosis: I'm an idiot. Pass #3: I used Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Based Primer and Sealer. One coat of that was perfect. Wore a 3M 2-filter respirator. Worked a treat.
@@randomrazr For smoke and water stain, yes, BIN is the only way to go. It works 100%. Also works perfect over old oil base trim/doors without sanding.
jeff i painted for five years and did many new construction homes in rochester new york. What you're saying about primer is spot on. I love when people think they have to re prime their entire house when they repaint. Primer is just a material to seal up raw materials or to seal stains like smoke etc... I used the binz on a apartment that we painted brand new and a month later caught on fire and it sealed up all the smoke damage and we even had to seal up all of the trusses from the smoke smell, it worked perfectly, BUT unlike you we were smart enough to use respirators, brother when you are spraying any paint you need a respirator, there are so many hazardous materials in all of them and watching you spray without one makes me cringe. My coworker that i worked with he painted for his whole life and died at 55 from a sudden stroke but all the chemicals makes me wonder, he didn't always use a respirator.. Just saying. Great video jeff.
Hello Jeff, Could you make a video about finishing a basement stairway coming down adjacent to a cement exterior wall? It seems to be a common issue where people are challenged to finish this area with moisture barrier, insulation, etc. Space is often limited.
There are tons of diy home project videos on RUclips and I’ve watched or tried to watch most of them… Jeff and the Home RenoVision DYI channel are by far, no one even close, the most informative, easy to understand, get right to the point videos on all that is DYI on so many topics .. no reason to watch anything else in my opinion keep up the good work
This is literally the only channel i watch when it comes to each step of my room renovations. Every step and question i have, there's always a video. Thanks Jeff!
Spot on about Primers / Sealers. As a drywall finisher and painter I try to get people to understand the importance of a drywall primer on fresh drywall. It needs to seal the surface. I just used a PPG product that worked great. The purpose of the Primer/Sealer is to make the surface the same texture and seal it. Crap primer you will have a different texture from the drywall mud to the drywall paper. I also do not back roll my primer when I spray. I quit doing that 20 years ago. Spray and go. Spray and back roll the finish coats.
very bright flash light sweeping across the wall will reveal anything and everything. Even dust particles that you don't normally see. Primed surface vs patched, even same color that you can't tell when looking directly, will stand out like a sore thumb.
I used the Behr strain-blocking primer sealer on a mahogany window frame. Brown marks leached through where I had sanded imperfections. The marks kept bleeding through no matter how many coats I applied. In the end let it dry for 24 hours before applying another coat and it did the trick.
@@westwood3286 Worked great in my house. The paint has been there for years and its holding up just fine. Maybe you made some mistakes when when applying it😆
This is a great video, and more people should watch it. Stop paying for water and products that don't work. Don't use the manufacturer's website to do your research. They just want to sell you more stuff. Here's a little tip I learned, if you need to paint the interior of a smokers home, simply spray a mixture of water and Super clean on the walls. Use a cheap spongemop, rags, or window cleaning scrubber to dry it off. Then, use the cheap primer that doesn't require you to use a respirator. You only need a couple of teaspoons per gallon of water in your pump sprayer. When you spray it on, start from the bottom spraying side to side and work your way up. In seconds, you will see the grime run right off the paint. If the smoke residue is light, you can use water and vinegar as well.
Cover stain is great. I used it over 50 year old wall tile (sanded/TSP) then finished with ScrubX and it still looks great 7 years later. I use it to spray old wood cabinets where white shellac can’t be used.
Thanks Jeff. I've made the very mistake you reference. I ended up trying Glidden having been impressed with some door and sash paint that they used to sell that was just great. The primer went on one coat with great coverage. One and done. I, personally, have given up on BEHR and Valspar. Its Glidden and Benjamin Moore for me. If it cost a little more - fine - one and done. Keep up the great work - the channel keeps growing. Let's see if 2023 breaks the 3M subscriber threshold!
Thanks for this comment. I'm somewhat of an avid SW painter. The lowes rep sold me on valspar primer for a new project, as a 1st coat good coverage primer, as did the container instructions. After doing my project, it wasn't even or good coverage. Plus it was runny in spots. Def. Not interested in using Valspar primer again, just wondered if we did something wrong.
@@nm3547 - In my very limited experience the big box store brand seems to be created/formulated for profit margin. Fewer solids means poorer coverage which means one coat is a myth. I recall decades ago complaining to Home Depot that their one coat did not indeed cover in one coat to which I was told I was putting it on too thinkly. No - I was not. Jumped to Lowe's and similar disappointment. I then went Benjamin Moore and it worked exactly as you expected. Spread easily - was clearly creamier (more solids) and nothing bled through. Yes it cost more but one coat vs two is a savings of time. Even if it was twice as much you are ahead. The Glidden Door and Sash line was amazing. Buttery thick. Went on incredibly easy with great spread. Dried without a single brush line. Wish they still made that. I bought up the remaining HD stock when they discontinued the line.
Love this channel it's all about good sound advice thanks for the content Geoff or Jeff ☺️ either way possibly one of the best channels on RUclips for the DYIer straight up guy no BS 👍
Done a good share of fresh drywall paint. 100% agree with Jeff, get the PVA Primer on fresh drywall. Cheaper than other paints and the drywall just soaks it up like a sponge. No point using high end paints/primers, waste of money. Also PVA creates a better surface for real paint.
Can you also use PVA primer on an exposed ceiling in basement with wood and pipes? I have both new drywall and an exposed ceiling band want to get one primer to just spray everything.
Those beams will probably bleed tannen stains. You would be better off with a primer like Kilz 3 and plan on letting it cure over night before finish coating it.@@johnthebaptized27
I usually agree with you %100, but this time, I gotta call you out. Not all water based primer is junk for sealing and stain blocking. Smart prime works great for covering stains and for sealing drywall and wood and it is water based. so does Kilz 3, also water based, so not all water based primer is junk. Don’t mislead people who don’t want to use paint thinner, lacquer thinner, or mineral spirits for cleanup. I agree that oil or shellac based products work fantastic, but if someone is sensitive to chemical smells, You can get excellent results from water based products now a days. And any stubborn spot treatments, they can use a rattle can of an oil primer. Other than that, you are spot on. I love your channel and videos. Keep up the good work! Cheers 🍻
Complete amateur DIYer here and living in a old house I've had to paint over all sorts of weird old paint. Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 water based primer has worked brilliantly for me for every project.
@mph5896 try killz restoration primer. It's latex and it blocks even the worst of stains from water damage in 2 coats. $40 a gallon but we'll worth not dealing with the smell of oil or shellac. I use it on all my water damaged ceilings.
so far. In my experience trusting a waterbased stain blocker will eventually let you down. and it is usually after you are finished the project that you see it. Cheers! If you don't want to experiment then use the oil.
Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond primer is my personal preference with most all primer applications. Might be over kill and over priced but never disappoints.
@@neilfriedel3212 not bad at all, especially for their quality. I just used a $68 Valspar pva primer that didn't come out near what I thought it would. (Wanted to try it this time, but won't again.)
I went from stained/polyurethane windows to painted and used SW Extreme Bond with great results. I was terrified to begin the project as I was a complete beginner at painting. I went to the SW store and told them what I was doing and they told me to use SW Extreme Bond primer and then Proclassic acrylic paint. I did a bunch of research before I began and could not find much information about either. But, I went ahead and used them anyway. It took me awhile to figure out how to handle Proclassic as it dries so quickly! But, I did adjust my technique and was fine. It's been two years now and I have absolutely no tannin bleeding, no yellowing and I have a wonderfully smooth surface that is easy to clean.
If the stain you're trying to cover is oil based then a water based primer can block it. Most stains on walls are water soluble which makes oil based primers the way to go.
As a general hanyman/renovator, I agree 100% with your primer assessments. I've done my fair share of interior and exterior painting and used several types of power rollers, but never graduated to the airless sprayers. My first concern is that your not wearing a mask during the spraying process. Airless sprayers produce a lot less airborne paint, but I would assume it still isn't very good for your lungs. My second concern is the precision of airless spraying - If your not shooting the same colour on walls, ceilings, trim..etc., all these surfaces would need to be masked for each colour shot, along with floor protection. Is it practical if the room requires three colours or paint types, or if you have furniture in the room? I fear the masking materials and time to mask would defeat any time savings by spraying. I'd love to hear your comments after your finish your big job "down south", when you have some more experience with the sprayer. Finally, Graco alone, manufacturers and sells about 8 different airless sprayer models, besides their hand held battery operated sprayers. I'd love to see a video comparing the use and versatility of the different models and why you choose the X7.
Do u always have to tape/prep the room for spray painting? (It's something I personally don't have to do w a roller/brush, but seems necessary w spray.)
@@nm3547 Painting contractors that are painting full homes/condos/apartments/garages can benefit greatly when they are spraying all one colour and doing so before there is finished flooring installed and no furniture in the room. Masking might then be minimized in those circumstances. I don't think spraying is a practical solution to paint individual residential rooms on occasion. Repainting kitchen cabinets might be the one exception where the masking time would be worth it. The Graco X7 Power System does have a "Power Roller" attachment available, but it is rarely advertised. Power rollers eliminate the paint tray and all the trip to the tray. You can roll a 9 ft. X 15 ft. wall in about 3 minutes. Wagner makes several models of their "Paint Stick EZ Roller", which is a great alternative for residential homes at less than $50. 00 and almost as fast as the power units.
I used Behr Multi-Surface Primer on new drywall. Had no issues with it from an application standpoint and it is a water-based, high solid content primer. Only gripe was it is a little difficult to clean off brushes and rollers with just soap and water, even though that is their recommended method.
That is one of the problems with acrlyic based paints and primers - there adhesion is much stronger than the older acetate (PVA) based paints and primers. This makes it harder to clean off your equipment.
@@doi467 I wouldn't necessarily put a bonding primer over wallpaper. There are many types of wallpaper out there, and in many different conditions. My comment relating to wallpaper removal and bonding primers was really for sealing any stray piece of wallpaper adhesive after removing wallpaper. Now you could use a bonding primer, shellac primer, or even specialty sealers from paint stores (Sherwin Williams has a few wallpaper sealers for cheap, RX pro 999 i think) but you first have to see if the wallpaper is in good condition, and will not peal when water touches it (many paints are water based, so your wallpaper has the potential to peal when water is introduced)
@@doi467 If you have plaster walls it is very easy to remove the wallpaper and the glue. Most drywall houses it is easy as well. My main job is removing wallpaper so I have tons of experience. I'd try and get the paper off if at all possible. If you still want to paint over it, I'd prime with an oil base primer (like Cover Stain) for 100% no problems with the paper releasing from the walls. You might try a more acrylic primer like 1-2-3 if you dare. Don't forget your seams will show and you will have to patch them after priming.
I've been doing restoration work for over 35 years here in the states, Cover stain is an oil base primer that dries in an hour and cleans with mineral spirits. Shellac base primers are cleaned with ammonia and Zinnzers BIN is a great one especially for knots and tanning issues. I have found a good water bourne primer was Gliddens Gripper but they have since been bought by PPG and merged with PPG's seal grip which is now called Seal gripper. doesn't hold back really bad stains but it does stick to just about any new or old surfaces, its really thick so fills imperfections within reason and turns to powder when sanded like an oil does. It also comes in a shelf grey called undercoater which is as you said good for darker topcoats especially anything in the red family, I wouldn't waste the money and use it on new drywall stick with the PVA products
Hey tony.what steps do you suggest when new drywall meets old drywall that’s been painted already ,and spackle was finished, floating the 2 together. Thanks in advance
I use the cheapest PVA primer at menards. It's $40 for 5 gallon bucket, and works great. Give it a light sanding after applying, it sands like drywall mud. and it removes imperfections from sags, runs, roller texture, etc.
When I watch this guy talk about paint and coatings, I trust what he says. There is just *something about the voice of experience telling you something they know to be true.
Ive always had good luck with kilz2 on new drywall. Including doing it just last week on my reno. 2 coats is what I do. And for new ceilings ive had good long term results just leaving it with 2 or 3 max coats of kilz2 (from Ontario as well )
@@GreenAppelPie yep. And like Jeff says ,stay away from the cheap watery stuff (I learned that when a friend gave me his leftover stuff lol. I probably would have had better results with milk)
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks man. Haven't tried the Glidden in about 16 or 17 years ...does it compare pretty good to the kilz ? I can't recall but if it does I'll just use that for the giant remainder I have to do lol.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Yep, it might be in Canada but here in the states at the local Big Box home improvement store, you can get a 2 Gal bucket of Kilz 2 for $30 (i.e. $15 per gallon)
used Kilz primer to prime two walls that had Kawasaki green and Husqvarna orange. One coat of that followed by Sherwin Williams latex paint did the job.
Great info, just finished drywalling last night and need to look at primers. I know you're going for tight editing, but please less cuts. I feel like I was watching the video on an old 56k modem with all the herky jerky movements.
Cover stain is oil based too at least in the states it is. If you want shellac(best stain blocker and dries fast too) go with BIN by same company. Cheers
It is oil based, even in Canada. This guy is clueless and I feel sorry for anybody that takes his advice on anything painting. Probably just as bad on other topics.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 "If you had 10 people living in a room for 100 years smoking 4 packs of cigarettes a day each and then they blew up all over the walls..." OMG, ROFL. Thanks for the laugh. 😆
Guy at home depot told me the Behr kitchen and bath primer is one of the best. Im using some Sherwin Williams paint over it in my kitchen so hopefully ill be okay
I have been looking for a primer I could put over old base painted cabinets so I could go back with regular latex. The guy at Lowe’s said I would have to take it all the way down to the wood before I could use regular latex paint. Thanks !
In the UK we have a thin plaster applied over drywall. I was told by many contractors how to handle that. Instead of primers we do a "mist coat" which is standard paint watered down. Then we follow up with the same paint neat. May be something that only works because of the thin plaster layer. Would be interested to hear if anyone does this with drywall. 5 years after doing this it's still looking perfect.
In the States, that thin coat of plaster is called a skim coat. We don't generally do them here unless they are changing the wall's texture. They generally use dry wall mud for that unless there is a bonding issue. I assume that in the UK you are using true plaster for that thin layer. That hardens rock hard, and takes considerable skill to apply smoothly and flawlessly. So I guess a "mist" coat(s) would be easier. Here, when we go to prime new drywall, it will soak up a lot of paint. If we skim coat with drywall mud, the water in the product would rehydrate the mud, causing flaws in the finish. Most construction companies are working on fast and "acceptable" in finishing, not like Jeff does here. He wants it perfect. Just like you and I do, not "acceptable".
Thank you! We have an old house and I don't know what exactly we uncovered under the wallpaper, but now I know what kind of primer to cover it with. I'll put on some Zinzler.
Gripper is the only water-based primer I have found you can use over a good sanded oil. Won't block stains (no water-based will),but sticks to a good prepped oil. Oil based primer is always better, but gripper is best for less smell and I founworks better on raw wood especially exterior.
Jeff I have a bedroom I am going to be repairing and repainting. I will have your usual nail pops, small holes, previous wall anchors holes, etc. to spackle up and all of the walls were painted in this ugly chocolate brown color (latex eggshell). We are going to be repainting the room to one of those off-white/greys. What primer will be best for my situation to paint all the walls and patched spots to a "baseline" before I lay down our new paint? My primary objective is to ensure the old chocolate brown paint is covered up so it doesn't bleed through and cause our new paint to appear darker than what it really is. Thank you!!!
You always make such an informative video that any layman could do the job wonderfully. Thanks a lot for sharing your valuable experience and technique.
A good water based bonding primer is XIM Urethane Modified Acrylic, or SW sells their version called Extreme Bond. Works fine on metal door frames that are painted with oil as long as you sand them first
At Home Depot, the first question that I asked is, "What are you priming?" For bare drywall, I offered PVA primer, best bang for the buck and perfect for the task. Kilz primer was a great choice for most stain blocking needs, but if they needed the elephant gun of primers, Zinzer BIN would stick to anything and seal everything. It was also way higher priced, but sometimes that's what they needed to get the job done.
At least kilz is recommending back roll sprayed paint. One reason being is that probably pushes primer into the surface better. Another reason - it's much easier to blend future repairs, since most likely repairs are going to be primed and painted using a roller.
I used to repair public housing, and a lot of the residents used to smoke in the bathroom for some reason. I got very familiar with the alcohol-based killz primer for those nicotine stains.
I can’t wait to spray paint my drywall 😁 The only downside, which is out of your control, is that the price of the Glidden primer has doubled at Home Depot in the last year 😕 Thank you for this video! 🇨🇦
On that Shellac, u must clean the surfaces 1st and a MUST, else it will bleed through to the top coat, you also need two coats of the primer.....fyi and congrats on this extremely helpful primer layout
I used that cover stain a couple years back to prime some stained wooden interior doors. Easy to take stained doors to white but man yeah those fumes. Thank God for the open garage door.
Kind of wish I saw this a week ago. Se la vie. BUT, I did pick up that roller and click-it wand based on a previous video, and it's a game changer! We just bought a reno project house, so we are learning A LOT as we go. One step at a time! Thanks for all of the great content!
Thank you for your videos. They've been my go-to information source for any renovation work over the past 3-4 years. Purchased a smoker's house 4 years ago and never thought it would haunt me for so long. In one of the rooms, which was the ex-owner's home office, I applied 2 coats of Kilz Original (oil-based) + 2 coats of Behr paint. Result: still a nasty nicotine odor, though no apparent nicotine bleed through. Then, I decided to prime again with Zinsser BIN, and applied 2 new coats of paint. Result: still a nasty odor. We're at 7 coats total without satisfactory results. I'm surprised, as BIN was supposed to be the Holy Grail of stain blockers. From my research, Cover Stain is oil-based, and Zinsser's Shellac-based product is BIN. Following my initial failure with Kilz Original, the company sent me a 5-Gal bucket of Kilz Restoration, previous marketed as "Max". Did you get any luck with that product? Is it worth trying? Also, do you have any experience with Benjamin Moore's INSL-X RO-3000 oil-based primer? Whatever I do next, and honestly whatever the cost, I just want to get rid of that problem. Any recommendation?
I don't think your smoke smell is coming from your painted surfaces. I'm sure you changed the carpets - but did you wash the floors before the new carpet? Maybe inside the light /plug switch boxes. Maybe the floors. The door handles. Ammonia and HOT water with rubber gloves and a microfiber cloth will clean those areas.
Question. How long did it take you to spray that space? And how long did it take to clean the machine afterwards? Any advice on taping off the windows so we don’t get paint on them? Love your videos by the way! So informative and empowering!
I have been trying to find answers to two issues I have: 1 - What would be the best primer for a small space (very little ventilation) with cinderblock walls painted very high gloss tan? 2 - My front door had rust spots, so I sanded and primed with kilz, then painted with outdoor paint. The spots still bubbled and have more rust. I thought I didn't do it right so I did the pricess twice & same result. I'm about to use flex seal on it! 😂 What should I do?
The best primer HANDS DOWN take my word for it. It works on everything including drywall. PGG (formerly Glidden) Gripper. If you have a home depot and they have Gripper, buy it. Covers everything.
I feel like I have made an error by buying kilz restoration interior primer. It's marketed as a maximum stain and odor blocking primer and claims to perform like a oil/shellac primer but is water based. Luckily, i purchased recently so I think i should return it.
If you're going to paint with the Airless, spend the extra $20 bucks and get a hose whip. Cannot describe how nice it is and allows for so much easier painting and control.
Great video! I have had so many questions about what kind of primary use over the years that this is fabulous to have it all clearly explained in one convenientvideo. I have a question for you… Two years ago I put up new drywall in a kitchen remodel. Painted it with a flat latex white paint. No primer. A could see all the dull spots from the drywall rising to the surface because I didn’t prime it first. Can I go back at this juncture and repaint that wall with a drywall primer and then repaint it again with the flat white latex?
Using an airless sprayer takes some know how and practice and its best to use 5 gal cans and if your renting one tell the rental center what your painting to get the right tip because different tips for different jobs . Benjamin moore make great primers just read the instructions on the can for thinning instructions . you can also rent an extension wand so your not so close to the celling or walls also remember you need to cover your floors with tarps or youll end up with over spray on the floors .
Primers are necesary. Had old brick wall, and before plaster i didnt apply any primer. It fell on the floor pretty fast after 1 day drying. Follow the correct procedure, and you will save time and money!
zinsser cover stain wont seal knots its just a quick drying oil primer the shellack primer says you can use for knots but i think white knotting solution is still the most useful and you can use water based paint over it the best primer for knots is aluminium wood primer but its grey and only compatible with oil based undercoat really.
For that change from a dark color primer Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start Interior Acrylic primer is great. It has a lot of white solids and knocks out deep colors 80% or better with just one coat. The Zinsser Cover Stain is an oil based primer not shellac based. It does cover and seal in bleeding stains from everything but for knots you need BIN, which is a shellac based primer. Cover Stain is awesome for nicotine and smoke. I primed and entire second floor, walls, ceilings and trim of a smoker's home and it worked beautifully and the walls were painted in white with zero bleed. But yes, it DOES make you high as a kite and a respirator is an absolute must use!
Always amuses me the differences, in procedures and lingo, between the UK and North America. Here, it's most common to use watered-down trade matt emulsion paint to seal ('mist coat') plaster (drywall). Cheapest option is diluted PVA.
But in the US, we have plaster walls in older houses, and drywall in newer builds. What we mean by drywall is the gypsum encased in paper. By plaster we mean the manually applied, shaped, and textured stuff that has to dry before painting, then has the superpower to soak up 5 gal of paint per sq ft 😂😂.
Learn how to paint a room like a pro here 👉🏼 ruclips.net/video/bLbUIevOxzY/видео.html
I’m just beginning into this stuff and have a bathroom I’m re-doing and have a lot of large holes I’ve patched with mud and sanded including the rest of the old painted parts, do I need to put primer on the patched areas only? Or the whole wall?
Mr Paint Pro, can you tell me the best primer for latex paint OUTDOOR DECK ?
I sanded my metal fence and now I'm ready to primer,which primer do you recommend and how, please and thanks.
What if you are removing Popcorn Ceilings? I got quotes, with or without primer, and it was $5000 extra "if needed". This was for smokers in house. Do I need?
what paint i can use to paint drywall in commercial kitchen
One of the most useful guys on the planet.
Cheers, Always Happy to help!
Agree!!🎉
If you want misinformation. 😮
Agree. I would have gone into construction if I had seen him when I was more youthful.
Agreed I watch his videos all the time he's so knowledgeable helped me so much around my place made it so I'm not afraid to jump in and try my own projects
This guy is the only channel I watch for DIY home projects! My bathroom remodel is turning out great so far from his suggestions, hacks, tutorials
I watch all the dudes on the RUclips platform There's always room to pick up a trick or two from someone 🤟
@@wildwoodtop Of course there is room to learn from the many others. But not everybody has time for that!
Wow Steve You make a good point! Suddenly I feel like Vance and Walz and strongly agree with you 🤗
You have created a legacy. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills. I agree you are "one of the most useful guys on the planet".
Oh gosh, getting addicted to this gentleman. Competent, humble, and not pompous.
The one stop guru of anything home project related
Literally you just saved me $67. On a gal of primer I was almost talked into at Lowe’s !!! I ended up spending $13.47 for drywall primer !! Thank you !!
PVA primers are used because they are inexpensive, not because they are the best primer. Any finish coat with sheen to it will no look good with only one coat over PVA. However, a more premium prier would probably be fine with a flat, eggshell, or even satin. A really good paint job still requires a primer and 2 finish coats when using paints with sheen.
Idk man if you spray PVA I don’t see the problem. PVA is my go to for new drywall if your rolling and want something inexpensive try Killz 2 or for better results try Killz restoration that stuff is solid! 20 years experience painting
Kilz adhesive. I found it to paint latex over 25yr yellowed oil based moulding. Worked like a charm. Put leftovers on a semi gloss to flat wall. No Peeling! It’s my favorite now.
a basic oil paint works just as well and saves a lot of money!
🙋🏻♂️question: what about a room renovation that has a ton of repairs and joint compound all over? I bought kilz 2, put one coat on, and it started lifting the compound off the wall😭
I’m desperate to know what would be a good choice for primer so I can get through this project already. I’ve re repaired these spots and don’t want it to happen again, I’m worried it’s all been compromised and about rewetting any of it with another water based primer but I’m not really digging the idea of using oil based. Kilz recommends their original oil primer since there was a problem and they were great about taking care of me with the problem I had…… I’m not really a fan of using kilz original though inside if I don’t have to, the stuff reeks
I don’t use any other type of kilz. Once, I finally gave up trying to primer the interior of a new garage after 6 gallons. The drywall kept drinking it. Couldn’t get it even, it was horrible. Adhesive covers all my patching. I almost never paint a wall without mud & texture patches.
Any PVA would work for new drywall but if you think water is the reason your having the peeling issues oil base is the way to go Killz original is my go too..BIN smells way more just to achieve the same goal. Killz is cheaper too save your money!
Another great thing about shellac based primer is it sticks to silicone. Very useful when you need to paint over silicone caulking. A lot of installers use clear, wipe it down thinking it's completely gone and it's not then it becomes a nightmare for the painter.
Nothing sticks to silicon excepting XIM in my experience.
Why would you paint over silicone... Remove it, paint and then apply it new!
@@AlessioSangalli Or switch to a paintable caulk, there are a few choices like elastomeric
@@michaeljames9336 XIM has a UMA that sticks to non-ideally-pintable surfaces, but its probably better to not use silicone if it needs to be painted, and that stuff is like 50% more than a normal primer
Jeff, I have been watching your videos for about a year now. My husband and I finally bought our first home last year and we are just getting around to start to paint. I am addicted to all your videos and it makes me feel like I can accomplish any DIY project (within reason lol). As an older woman though, I am a little skeptical of what I can actually do. My husband is more of the computer person, so a lot of this will be on me, unless I need the muscle :) I will let you know how it goes. Thank you for sharing years of talent, artistry, and experience. Cheers!
Im in the exact same boat!
@doxiemrs. Please did you paint your house yet ?
I would also recommend Zinsser bullseye 123 because of its versatility. 1. Seals patches and puts a good foundation over old or stained surfaces (not sure about mold likely need something stronger) 2. It’s a true white unlike most primers that dry grey-ish so if you are going to a white only need one coat over this. 3. Actually seals wood before latex. I would do this only for interiors on bare trim or doors. I was a firm believer in oil priming bare wood before latex, but this stuff seems to bond well (scratch tested) to wood so don’t be afraid to try it. Comes in gray if you want to make a nice canvas for anything dark.
Late comment, but the Zinsser Cover Stain product shown in this video is not the shellac-based can, it is regular oil primer. The shellac based Zinsser product has a red color scheme on the can. Might help someone who isn’t familiar.
I have a hard time learning, it's 4am i just woke up,, you literally just taught me 1000 things on primer I never knew, and I was able to retain the info! Very good video thank you! Your knowledge is easily digestible for me!
On new drywall, you should back-roll right after spraying to introduce an even surface throughout. If you don't, the drywalled portion will have a smoother finish than the paper portion of the drywall.
I enjoy your videos. I wouldn't say Cover Stain is shellac. BIN is white pigmented shellac. I prefer BIN for the smoked up or water stained INTERIOR room - it dries so much faster and you can sand it very soon if you need to. Plus clean up is with ammonia and hot water. Believe me, I've used 100's of gallons of Cover Stain, it has its place, but Inside, on top of old oil base paint, stains, and smoke, BIN is the only way to go. (BTW, Maryland has banned the sale of it recently, go figure.) I will also say Benjamin Moore's 094 Primer is what I use on exterior bare or previously painted in oil - woodwork and is similar to Cover Stain.
Exactly, that cover stain is an oil base primer, not shellac. The French wording in there doesn't say much on what it is. In the US, it's oil base.
Great video. You add sanity to the work,as in,if a person follows your advice, they won't go insane! That and the fact that you remove doubt by being honest. thanks much
Cheers!
My husband and I just finished a drywall project. We are about to start painting. We had no idea what primer we need. Big thank you!!
Pva for drywall 😁
Thanks for so much great info. I would love to see a video explaining the cleaning and upkeep needed to keep a spray paint machine in good shape for a long time. I have always been hesitant about the spray machines because I fear that If I don't clean it correctly, it will just turn into a block of dry paint and never work anymore. I think a video explaining that would be great and very popular.
I found Sherwin Williams PVA primer was awesome after skim coating our old textured drywall. About $45 for 5 gallons. Really made the surface solid.
Geez man, where are you getting it at? I was just quoted $117 after tax for a 5 gal pail in North Carolina from the S-W store
@@hoonyur5973 the guys in the store (SF Bay Area) will often give you the contractor discount if you ask. I think you're correct; the street price was above $100.
@@hoonyur5973 Get a contractor friend. Everybody has one. Put it on their account. It helps them out because you're buying more product under their name and you both get discounts.
I can confirm this Sherwin rapes DIYers on paint! Use some ones account to get a better deal.. I’m a painting contractor and I get more than 50%off paint at SW. Or just ask an associate nicely to put in an account to get a discount 9 times out of 10 they are nice enough to do you a solid.
D’S speedy paint LLC if y’all need a good discount 🙏
WORST mess I got myself into. Bought a fixer with plaster walls and 40 years of nicotine stained walls. TSP'ed all the walls/trim, then sprayed a water based kills. Everything bled through with brown stains. Sprayed another coat and same thing. Stepped it up to spraying oil based kills and it covered. I was high as a kite though since I used the wrong filter on the respirator. Shellac primer would have been ideal, BUT I did not want to destroy my sprayer.
water based paint on plaster will peel. always prime with oil. Cheers!
I dealt with the same. 35 years of smoking in the house. Pass #1: Painted the interior with a good combination paint+primer. The smoke tar bled through. Pass #2: Painted it again with the same stuff and got the same results. Diagnosis: I'm an idiot. Pass #3: I used Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Based Primer and Sealer. One coat of that was perfect. Wore a 3M 2-filter respirator. Worked a treat.
is shelleac better then cover stain?
@@randomrazr For smoke and water stain, yes, BIN is the only way to go. It works 100%. Also works perfect over old oil base trim/doors without sanding.
Shellac (B I N) won't destroy your sprayer. It cleans with ammonia and warm water.
jeff i painted for five years and did many new construction homes in rochester new york. What you're saying about primer is spot on. I love when people think they have to re prime their entire house when they repaint. Primer is just a material to seal up raw materials or to seal stains like smoke etc... I used the binz on a apartment that we painted brand new and a month later caught on fire and it sealed up all the smoke damage and we even had to seal up all of the trusses from the smoke smell, it worked perfectly, BUT unlike you we were smart enough to use respirators, brother when you are spraying any paint you need a respirator, there are so many hazardous materials in all of them and watching you spray without one makes me cringe. My coworker that i worked with he painted for his whole life and died at 55 from a sudden stroke but all the chemicals makes me wonder, he didn't always use a respirator.. Just saying. Great video jeff.
OSHA is sending you an email haha
Wow he died so young 😢
They prob normally use a respirator, but he's talk while spraying for this video.
Facts! Always use a respirator.
Yes there is the talking part. But there should be an ending segment that shows him painting with a respirator, or at least say you should.
Hello Jeff,
Could you make a video about finishing a basement stairway coming down adjacent to a cement exterior wall?
It seems to be a common issue where people are challenged to finish this area with moisture barrier, insulation, etc. Space is often limited.
There are tons of diy home project videos on RUclips and I’ve watched or tried to watch most of them…
Jeff and the Home RenoVision DYI channel are by far, no one even close, the most informative, easy to understand, get right to the point videos on all that is DYI on so many topics .. no reason to watch anything else in my opinion keep up the good work
This is literally the only channel i watch when it comes to each step of my room renovations. Every step and question i have, there's always a video. Thanks Jeff!
Spot on about Primers / Sealers. As a drywall finisher and painter I try to get people to understand the importance of a drywall primer on fresh drywall. It needs to seal the surface. I just used a PPG product that worked great. The purpose of the Primer/Sealer is to make the surface the same texture and seal it. Crap primer you will have a different texture from the drywall mud to the drywall paper. I also do not back roll my primer when I spray. I quit doing that 20 years ago. Spray and go. Spray and back roll the finish coats.
Thanks for the beige mud advise. Didn't know about it. Hated trying to find the spots I filled.
Most people just take blue or black chalk from a chalk line to color their mud for patches.
Any time!
very bright flash light sweeping across the wall will reveal anything and everything. Even dust particles that you don't normally see. Primed surface vs patched, even same color that you can't tell when looking directly, will stand out like a sore thumb.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 I use red!!
I used the Behr strain-blocking primer sealer on a mahogany window frame. Brown marks leached through where I had sanded imperfections. The marks kept bleeding through no matter how many coats I applied. In the end let it dry for 24 hours before applying another coat and it did the trick.
Behr products suck,I did my whole house 4 bedrooms ,$2000 later and 3 years later looks cheap.
@@westwood3286 Worked great in my house. The paint has been there for years and its holding up just fine. Maybe you made some mistakes when when applying it😆
Water based stain killing primers require over night curing to stop the stain.
@@westwood3286I agree. They don’t have a good sleek finish like sherwin and definitely don’t hold up as well.
This is a great video, and more people should watch it. Stop paying for water and products that don't work. Don't use the manufacturer's website to do your research. They just want to sell you more stuff.
Here's a little tip I learned, if you need to paint the interior of a smokers home, simply spray a mixture of water and Super clean on the walls. Use a cheap spongemop, rags, or window cleaning scrubber to dry it off. Then, use the cheap primer that doesn't require you to use a respirator. You only need a couple of teaspoons per gallon of water in your pump sprayer. When you spray it on, start from the bottom spraying side to side and work your way up. In seconds, you will see the grime run right off the paint. If the smoke residue is light, you can use water and vinegar as well.
Wow, how did I not know about the beige mud before? Would've made life so much easier.
Cover stain is great. I used it over 50 year old wall tile (sanded/TSP) then finished with ScrubX and it still looks great 7 years later.
I use it to spray old wood cabinets where white shellac can’t be used.
Thanks Jeff. I've made the very mistake you reference. I ended up trying Glidden having been impressed with some door and sash paint that they used to sell that was just great. The primer went on one coat with great coverage. One and done. I, personally, have given up on BEHR and Valspar. Its Glidden and Benjamin Moore for me. If it cost a little more - fine - one and done.
Keep up the great work - the channel keeps growing. Let's see if 2023 breaks the 3M subscriber threshold!
Thanks for this comment. I'm somewhat of an avid SW painter. The lowes rep sold me on valspar primer for a new project, as a 1st coat good coverage primer, as did the container instructions. After doing my project, it wasn't even or good coverage. Plus it was runny in spots. Def. Not interested in using Valspar primer again, just wondered if we did something wrong.
@@nm3547 - In my very limited experience the big box store brand seems to be created/formulated for profit margin. Fewer solids means poorer coverage which means one coat is a myth. I recall decades ago complaining to Home Depot that their one coat did not indeed cover in one coat to which I was told I was putting it on too thinkly. No - I was not. Jumped to Lowe's and similar disappointment. I then went Benjamin Moore and it worked exactly as you expected. Spread easily - was clearly creamier (more solids) and nothing bled through. Yes it cost more but one coat vs two is a savings of time. Even if it was twice as much you are ahead. The Glidden Door and Sash line was amazing. Buttery thick. Went on incredibly easy with great spread. Dried without a single brush line. Wish they still made that. I bought up the remaining HD stock when they discontinued the line.
@@dennisfahey2379 thanks for the info!!
I've been disappointed too many times by Behr products. BM or SW are my preference.
Great vid. Can use chalk line chalk to tint regular drywall mud instead of buying beige mud…
Yes you can!
I don't think I trust anyone else .. I watched a couple of other videos about primer and then your video came up. you are THE BEST
Love this channel it's all about good sound advice thanks for the content Geoff or Jeff ☺️ either way possibly one of the best channels on RUclips for the DYIer straight up guy no BS 👍
If you have nicotine stains, Valspar Bonding primer covers and sticks. It sticks to old oil base as well. It sucks with drywall dust though!
Done a good share of fresh drywall paint. 100% agree with Jeff, get the PVA Primer on fresh drywall. Cheaper than other paints and the drywall just soaks it up like a sponge. No point using high end paints/primers, waste of money. Also PVA creates a better surface for real paint.
Cheers Willy.
Can you also use PVA primer on an exposed ceiling in basement with wood and pipes? I have both new drywall and an exposed ceiling band want to get one primer to just spray everything.
Those beams will probably bleed tannen stains. You would be better off with a primer like Kilz 3 and plan on letting it cure over night before finish coating it.@@johnthebaptized27
I usually agree with you %100, but this time, I gotta call you out. Not all water based primer is junk for sealing and stain blocking. Smart prime works great for covering stains and for sealing drywall and wood and it is water based. so does Kilz 3, also water based, so not all water based primer is junk. Don’t mislead people who don’t want to use paint thinner, lacquer thinner, or mineral spirits for cleanup. I agree that oil or shellac based products work fantastic, but if someone is sensitive to chemical smells, You can get excellent results from water based products now a days. And any stubborn spot treatments, they can use a rattle can of an oil primer.
Other than that, you are spot on. I love your channel and videos. Keep up the good work! Cheers 🍻
I have used about every water based kills style primer known to man. Never had success on problem areas like water stains and nicotine.
Complete amateur DIYer here and living in a old house I've had to paint over all sorts of weird old paint. Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 water based primer has worked brilliantly for me for every project.
@@agnarkb what they said ☝️
@mph5896 try killz restoration primer. It's latex and it blocks even the worst of stains from water damage in 2 coats. $40 a gallon but we'll worth not dealing with the smell of oil or shellac. I use it on all my water damaged ceilings.
so far. In my experience trusting a waterbased stain blocker will eventually let you down. and it is usually after you are finished the project that you see it. Cheers! If you don't want to experiment then use the oil.
Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond primer is my personal preference with most all primer applications. Might be over kill and over priced but never disappoints.
@ how much does it run in your area?
@@nm3547 about 55 a gallon
@@neilfriedel3212 not bad at all, especially for their quality. I just used a $68 Valspar pva primer that didn't come out near what I thought it would. (Wanted to try it this time, but won't again.)
I went from stained/polyurethane windows to painted and used SW Extreme Bond with great results. I was terrified to begin the project as I was a complete beginner at painting. I went to the SW store and told them what I was doing and they told me to use SW Extreme Bond primer and then Proclassic acrylic paint. I did a bunch of research before I began and could not find much information about either. But, I went ahead and used them anyway. It took me awhile to figure out how to handle Proclassic as it dries so quickly! But, I did adjust my technique and was fine. It's been two years now and I have absolutely no tannin bleeding, no yellowing and I have a wonderfully smooth surface that is easy to clean.
If the stain you're trying to cover is oil based then a water based primer can block it. Most stains on walls are water soluble which makes oil based primers the way to go.
I actually understand what Jeff said. Am learning, thank you
I love your channel!! You are so good at what you do!! Absolutely amazing!!
Thank you! Cheers!
As a general hanyman/renovator, I agree 100% with your primer assessments. I've done my fair share of interior and exterior painting and used several types of power rollers, but never graduated to the airless sprayers. My first concern is that your not wearing a mask during the spraying process. Airless sprayers produce a lot less airborne paint, but I would assume it still isn't very good for your lungs. My second concern is the precision of airless spraying - If your not shooting the same colour on walls, ceilings, trim..etc., all these surfaces would need to be masked for each colour shot, along with floor protection. Is it practical if the room requires three colours or paint types, or if you have furniture in the room? I fear the masking materials and time to mask would defeat any time savings by spraying. I'd love to hear your comments after your finish your big job "down south", when you have some more experience with the sprayer. Finally, Graco alone, manufacturers and sells about 8 different airless sprayer models, besides their hand held battery operated sprayers. I'd love to see a video comparing the use and versatility of the different models and why you choose the X7.
I only used it to prime and then spray all the ceilings. roller for the walls and trim. Cheers!
Do u always have to tape/prep the room for spray painting? (It's something I personally don't have to do w a roller/brush, but seems necessary w spray.)
@@nm3547 Painting contractors that are painting full homes/condos/apartments/garages can benefit greatly when they are spraying all one colour and doing so before there is finished flooring installed and no furniture in the room. Masking might then be minimized in those circumstances. I don't think spraying is a practical solution to paint individual residential rooms on occasion. Repainting kitchen cabinets might be the one exception where the masking time would be worth it.
The Graco X7 Power System does have a "Power Roller" attachment available, but it is rarely advertised. Power rollers eliminate the paint tray and all the trip to the tray. You can roll a 9 ft. X 15 ft. wall in about 3 minutes. Wagner makes several models of their "Paint Stick EZ Roller", which is a great alternative for residential homes at less than $50. 00 and almost as fast as the power units.
I used Behr Multi-Surface Primer on new drywall. Had no issues with it from an application standpoint and it is a water-based, high solid content primer. Only gripe was it is a little difficult to clean off brushes and rollers with just soap and water, even though that is their recommended method.
That is one of the problems with acrlyic based paints and primers - there adhesion is much stronger than the older acetate (PVA) based paints and primers. This makes it harder to clean off your equipment.
The amount of cuts was very entertaining and great information!
Glad you enjoyed it! Cheers!
Just finished drywall (and watching all Jeffs drywall videos). Now on priming, then I'll watch how to paint a room by Jeff...
The starting and stopping frames are driving me crazy!!!
Straight forward. No BS. Love it.
Hey don’t forget about bonding primers. Very useful for weird situations like post wallpaper removal.
do u know witch one would be the best to cover wallpaper in an old house?
@@doi467 I wouldn't necessarily put a bonding primer over wallpaper. There are many types of wallpaper out there, and in many different conditions. My comment relating to wallpaper removal and bonding primers was really for sealing any stray piece of wallpaper adhesive after removing wallpaper.
Now you could use a bonding primer, shellac primer, or even specialty sealers from paint stores (Sherwin Williams has a few wallpaper sealers for cheap, RX pro 999 i think) but you first have to see if the wallpaper is in good condition, and will not peal when water touches it (many paints are water based, so your wallpaper has the potential to peal when water is introduced)
@@doi467 If you have plaster walls it is very easy to remove the wallpaper and the glue. Most drywall houses it is easy as well. My main job is removing wallpaper so I have tons of experience. I'd try and get the paper off if at all possible. If you still want to paint over it, I'd prime with an oil base primer (like Cover Stain) for 100% no problems with the paper releasing from the walls. You might try a more acrylic primer like 1-2-3 if you dare. Don't forget your seams will show and you will have to patch them after priming.
@@maddierosemusic thanks man
@@gamesforyoutwo ty
I've been doing restoration work for over 35 years here in the states, Cover stain is an oil base primer that dries in an hour and cleans with mineral spirits. Shellac base primers are cleaned with ammonia and Zinnzers BIN is a great one especially for knots and tanning issues. I have found a good water bourne primer was Gliddens Gripper but they have since been bought by PPG and merged with PPG's seal grip which is now called Seal gripper. doesn't hold back really bad stains but it does stick to just about any new or old surfaces, its really thick so fills imperfections within reason and turns to powder when sanded like an oil does. It also comes in a shelf grey called undercoater which is as you said good for darker topcoats especially anything in the red family, I wouldn't waste the money and use it on new drywall stick with the PVA products
Hey tony.what steps do you suggest when new drywall meets old drywall that’s been painted already ,and spackle was finished, floating the 2 together. Thanks in advance
Have you been letting the Gripper dry over night before finish coating? Its stain killing ability increases with cure time.
I use the cheapest PVA primer at menards. It's $40 for 5 gallon bucket, and works great. Give it a light sanding after applying, it sands like drywall mud. and it removes imperfections from sags, runs, roller texture, etc.
When I watch this guy talk about paint and coatings, I trust what he says. There is just *something about the voice of experience telling you something they know to be true.
Ive always had good luck with kilz2 on new drywall. Including doing it just last week on my reno. 2 coats is what I do. And for new ceilings ive had good long term results just leaving it with 2 or 3 max coats of kilz2 (from Ontario as well )
Exactly the same here on new drywall, no issues.
@@GreenAppelPie yep. And like Jeff says ,stay away from the cheap watery stuff (I learned that when a friend gave me his leftover stuff lol. I probably would have had better results with milk)
I just find that Killz2 is overpriced as a drywall primer. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks man. Haven't tried the Glidden in about 16 or 17 years ...does it compare pretty good to the kilz ? I can't recall but if it does I'll just use that for the giant remainder I have to do lol.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Yep, it might be in Canada but here in the states at the local Big Box home improvement store, you can get a 2 Gal bucket of Kilz 2 for $30 (i.e. $15 per gallon)
Possibly the most informative video I’ve ever seen on RUclips.
BIN Shellac is the god of primer. Did a 10x12 ceiling and almost passed out even though had a window open but damn is it good 😂
I hate using it cuz its so toxic.
the fumes are super flammable too, very easy to blow yourself up if you're not ventilating properly
That is why I choose the odorless primer.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
That shellac is a need for nicotine walls
That's why you buy - and USE a respirator. Right, Jeff ? :)
used Kilz primer to prime two walls that had Kawasaki green and Husqvarna orange. One coat of that followed by Sherwin Williams latex paint did the job.
Great info, just finished drywalling last night and need to look at primers. I know you're going for tight editing, but please less cuts. I feel like I was watching the video on an old 56k modem with all the herky jerky movements.
Yes. Totally agree.
Cover stain is oil based too at least in the states it is. If you want shellac(best stain blocker and dries fast too) go with BIN by same company. Cheers
It is oil based, even in Canada. This guy is clueless and I feel sorry for anybody that takes his advice on anything painting. Probably just as bad on other topics.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
"If you had 10 people living in a room for 100 years smoking 4 packs of cigarettes a day each and then they blew up all over the walls..." OMG, ROFL.
Thanks for the laugh. 😆
Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY I replayed that 4 times and died laughing each time. Your timing and delivery were impeccable!
Guy at home depot told me the Behr kitchen and bath primer is one of the best. Im using some Sherwin Williams paint over it in my kitchen so hopefully ill be okay
you are the man . i wasted 2 day in a drywall for not applying primer. the new paint came off the wall. i should have watched your video
I have been looking for a primer I could put over old base painted cabinets so I could go back with regular latex. The guy at Lowe’s said I would have to take it all the way down to the wood before I could use regular latex paint. Thanks !
I like Killz 2, it even comes in a bathroom version. But yeah outside I’d use at least oil based.
In the UK we have a thin plaster applied over drywall. I was told by many contractors how to handle that. Instead of primers we do a "mist coat" which is standard paint watered down. Then we follow up with the same paint neat. May be something that only works because of the thin plaster layer. Would be interested to hear if anyone does this with drywall.
5 years after doing this it's still looking perfect.
In the States, that thin coat of plaster is called a skim coat. We don't generally do them here unless they are changing the wall's texture. They generally use dry wall mud for that unless there is a bonding issue. I assume that in the UK you are using true plaster for that thin layer. That hardens rock hard, and takes considerable skill to apply smoothly and flawlessly. So I guess a "mist" coat(s) would be easier. Here, when we go to prime new drywall, it will soak up a lot of paint. If we skim coat with drywall mud, the water in the product would rehydrate the mud, causing flaws in the finish. Most construction companies are working on fast and "acceptable" in finishing, not like Jeff does here. He wants it perfect. Just like you and I do, not "acceptable".
@@denisegaylord382 thanks for the insight.
Yes we also call it a skim coat. It is real plaster
Thank you! We have an old house and I don't know what exactly we uncovered under the wallpaper, but now I know what kind of primer to cover it with. I'll put on some Zinzler.
Kills original (oil base) will do the same at a fraction of the price
Cover stain in the states is oil based as far as I know. BIN is the shellac based one.
Gripper is the only water-based primer I have found you can use over a good sanded oil. Won't block stains (no water-based will),but sticks to a good prepped oil. Oil based primer is always better, but gripper is best for less smell and I founworks better on raw wood especially exterior.
First 2 from the left, are the best of the best.
Discussion over. Finished.
Thanks pro!! This was a necessary conversation!
Jeff I have a bedroom I am going to be repairing and repainting. I will have your usual nail pops, small holes, previous wall anchors holes, etc. to spackle up and all of the walls were painted in this ugly chocolate brown color (latex eggshell). We are going to be repainting the room to one of those off-white/greys. What primer will be best for my situation to paint all the walls and patched spots to a "baseline" before I lay down our new paint? My primary objective is to ensure the old chocolate brown paint is covered up so it doesn't bleed through and cause our new paint to appear darker than what it really is. Thank you!!!
You always make such an informative video that any layman could do the job wonderfully. Thanks a lot for sharing your valuable experience and technique.
Jeff a portion above my shower is painted an the issue is it sweat shows on paint. Best way to fix this.
A good water based bonding primer is XIM Urethane Modified Acrylic, or SW sells their version called Extreme Bond. Works fine on metal door frames that are painted with oil as long as you sand them first
Zinsser is expensive but, amazing! I used it to prime and seal the old doors in my old house. They came out 👍🏽
At Home Depot, the first question that I asked is, "What are you priming?" For bare drywall, I offered PVA primer, best bang for the buck and perfect for the task. Kilz primer was a great choice for most stain blocking needs, but if they needed the elephant gun of primers, Zinzer BIN would stick to anything and seal everything. It was also way higher priced, but sometimes that's what they needed to get the job done.
One thing to remember when recommending BIN, is that it goes about twice as far as a water based primer.
At least kilz is recommending back roll sprayed paint. One reason being is that probably pushes primer into the surface better. Another reason - it's much easier to blend future repairs, since most likely repairs are going to be primed and painted using a roller.
I used to repair public housing, and a lot of the residents used to smoke in the bathroom for some reason. I got very familiar with the alcohol-based killz primer for those nicotine stains.
I can’t wait to spray paint my drywall 😁 The only downside, which is out of your control, is that the price of the Glidden primer has doubled at Home Depot in the last year 😕
Thank you for this video! 🇨🇦
On that Shellac, u must clean the surfaces 1st and a MUST, else it will bleed through to the top coat, you also need two coats of the primer.....fyi and congrats on this extremely helpful primer layout
I used that cover stain a couple years back to prime some stained wooden interior doors. Easy to take stained doors to white but man yeah those fumes. Thank God for the open garage door.
Kind of wish I saw this a week ago. Se la vie. BUT, I did pick up that roller and click-it wand based on a previous video, and it's a game changer! We just bought a reno project house, so we are learning A LOT as we go. One step at a time! Thanks for all of the great content!
Cheers Jennifer , great time for a project house. prices of lumber are down and supply is getting closer to normal.
That purple water based primer works perfectly as a transition primer. I've used gallons of it and it is great because it's low VOC unlike an oil.
Well done! delivered in a clear concise way that gives me confidence to buy the right materials and carryout my project
Finally someone who speaks real English that can properly explain things in the most helpful way and right to the point.
Thank you for your videos. They've been my go-to information source for any renovation work over the past 3-4 years.
Purchased a smoker's house 4 years ago and never thought it would haunt me for so long. In one of the rooms, which was the ex-owner's home office, I applied 2 coats of Kilz Original (oil-based) + 2 coats of Behr paint. Result: still a nasty nicotine odor, though no apparent nicotine bleed through. Then, I decided to prime again with Zinsser BIN, and applied 2 new coats of paint. Result: still a nasty odor. We're at 7 coats total without satisfactory results. I'm surprised, as BIN was supposed to be the Holy Grail of stain blockers.
From my research, Cover Stain is oil-based, and Zinsser's Shellac-based product is BIN.
Following my initial failure with Kilz Original, the company sent me a 5-Gal bucket of Kilz Restoration, previous marketed as "Max". Did you get any luck with that product? Is it worth trying?
Also, do you have any experience with Benjamin Moore's INSL-X RO-3000 oil-based primer?
Whatever I do next, and honestly whatever the cost, I just want to get rid of that problem. Any recommendation?
what you need to do is contact a restoration supply store and pick up an anti smoke product to add to the paint. It will work wonders for you.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY amazing, thank you!
I don't think your smoke smell is coming from your painted surfaces. I'm sure you changed the carpets - but did you wash the floors before the new carpet? Maybe inside the light /plug switch boxes. Maybe the floors. The door handles. Ammonia and HOT water with rubber gloves and a microfiber cloth will clean those areas.
Question. How long did it take you to spray that space? And how long did it take to clean the machine afterwards? Any advice on taping off the windows so we don’t get paint on them? Love your videos by the way! So informative and empowering!
Did you end up feeling you needed to tape? I dont tape up w brushes, but am moving to a spray painter, and wondering if ot requires taping up
I have been trying to find answers to two issues I have:
1 - What would be the best primer for a small space (very little ventilation) with cinderblock walls painted very high gloss tan?
2 - My front door had rust spots, so I sanded and primed with kilz, then painted with outdoor paint. The spots still bubbled and have more rust. I thought I didn't do it right so I did the pricess twice & same result. I'm about to use flex seal on it! 😂 What should I do?
The best primer HANDS DOWN take my word for it. It works on everything including drywall.
PGG (formerly Glidden) Gripper.
If you have a home depot and they have Gripper, buy it. Covers everything.
Took popcorn off and used pva and beir topcoat (sprayed both) had cracking everywhere. Switched to Zinsser Bulls Eye 123, Zero issues noe
was the behr paint labeled as a spray product. many finish coats are roller only.
I feel like I have made an error by buying kilz restoration interior primer. It's marketed as a maximum stain and odor blocking primer and claims to perform like a oil/shellac primer but is water based. Luckily, i purchased recently so I think i should return it.
If you're going to paint with the Airless, spend the extra $20 bucks and get a hose whip. Cannot describe how nice it is and allows for so much easier painting and control.
Thanks for the tip. I am just spraying our house and saw your comment. Looks like I am buying a hose whip. Cheers.
Great video! I have had so many questions about what kind of primary use over the years that this is fabulous to have it all clearly explained in one convenientvideo.
I have a question for you… Two years ago I put up new drywall in a kitchen remodel. Painted it with a flat latex white paint. No primer. A could see all the dull spots from the drywall rising to the surface because I didn’t prime it first. Can I go back at this juncture and repaint that wall with a drywall primer and then repaint it again with the flat white latex?
Using an airless sprayer takes some know how and practice and its best to use 5 gal cans and if your renting one tell the rental center what your painting to get the right tip because different tips for different jobs . Benjamin moore make great primers just read the instructions on the can for thinning instructions . you can also rent an extension wand so your not so close to the celling or walls also remember you need to cover your floors with tarps or youll end up with over spray on the floors .
Primers are necesary. Had old brick wall, and before plaster i didnt apply any primer. It fell on the floor pretty fast after 1 day drying. Follow the correct procedure, and you will save time and money!
zinsser cover stain wont seal knots its just a quick drying oil primer the shellack primer says you can use for knots but i think white knotting solution is still the most useful and you can use water based paint over it the best primer for knots is aluminium wood primer but its grey and only compatible with oil based undercoat really.
Zinser oil based cover stain primer is THE thing you need to create a solid base over stains and for prior to painting cabinets
I find it so refreshing to hear someone tell me not to bother to buy something 😂. Thanks for the tips.
For that change from a dark color primer Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start Interior Acrylic primer is great. It has a lot of white solids and knocks out deep colors 80% or better with just one coat.
The Zinsser Cover Stain is an oil based primer not shellac based. It does cover and seal in bleeding stains from everything but for knots you need BIN, which is a shellac based primer. Cover Stain is awesome for nicotine and smoke. I primed and entire second floor, walls, ceilings and trim of a smoker's home and it worked beautifully and the walls were painted in white with zero bleed. But yes, it DOES make you high as a kite and a respirator is an absolute must use!
Such good information, Appreciate you
Always amuses me the differences, in procedures and lingo, between the UK and North America.
Here, it's most common to use watered-down trade matt emulsion paint to seal ('mist coat') plaster (drywall). Cheapest option is diluted PVA.
But in the US, we have plaster walls in older houses, and drywall in newer builds. What we mean by drywall is the gypsum encased in paper. By plaster we mean the manually applied, shaped, and textured stuff that has to dry before painting, then has the superpower to soak up 5 gal of paint per sq ft 😂😂.
What about from pink to gray? 3 walls gray, one wall coral/pink… painting it all a little darker gray…. Will they be different colors when it dries?