50sKid...a tip for using that style of ring compressor...put the piston into it and snug it down before inserting the piston skirt into the bore. That way you can make sure the bottom of the compressor is fully covering the bottom piston ring. That is especially critical when using 3 piece oil control rings like the M52TU style.
This channel is great. Your videos are fantastic, you’re considerate to the viewer in how you approach jobs, you make mistakes and keep them in there and you have a great narrative tone to everything you do. I’ve just bought an e46 330i and the plan is to make it into a dedicated track car. Your videos will help me so much and give me an opportunity to really get involved in the project rather than just taking it somewhere for someone else to do. Thank you!
Jason, this has just been an outstanding effort on your part. As always, it gives the rest of us E46 guys the confidence to tackle anything! Thanks again.
14:30 I really appreciate seeing your struggle with the click torque wrench not indicating with LH threads. Personally, I think that there should be a notice engraved in red on the shaft telling mechanics that it doesn't work on LH threads. I will be using a beam type torque wrench to install my Rally Road oil pump nut once it arrives, along with some Loctite 266 for additional insurance.
MAN OH MAN!!! I Can't wait for you to put it all together and start driving! I plan to do this for my channel soon. Thank you so much for everything :)
Really good video 50sKid. Been following since the first video. I'm really excited to see you drop it back in the engine bay and hook it up. Please video the first time you start the car up! :) I bet it'll sound a lot quieter than most e46s as it's almost like a brand new engine now!
I remember in the early 80's I used to build engines for me and my friends. I used red locktite on rod bearing bolts and used a torque wrench from JC Penny with the needle no clicker because no $$ at 17 yrs. old LOL.
when you put the torque wrench in reverse to torque I just new it wouldn't work. I was practically yelling at the screen lol. that sucks that you went through two nuts.
The mech a nic I also ran into the same issue when I was trying to torque the reverse bolts that go into the vanos. So only digital torque wrenches go both ways?
I was just about to ask the same question if a mechanical torque wrench worked in reverse. I am glad that he left that in the video. These videos are really serving e46 owners in his being so open. Now I have learned something new and that is the whole point of these videos. Thanks!!
I can appreciate the logic you use for re-using main cap bolts....but why did you not apply or extend it to the conrod bolts? I think you are able to re-use conrod bolts as well????
I take it that you did not replace the spring for the oil pressure release valve..that spring controls oil pressure to everything and they do loose tension
1st of all thank you for the videos they are very helpful i have not seen priming of the oil pump before start up i saw the rebuild of the pump what is the process for priming?
Dude I've just realized that your car is basically a clone of mine. Mine is a 2002 330i with stallgrau metallic paint with the premium and sport package, with 178k, and an A/T!!!
Do you think that this engine was mistreated a bit? I get nervous for my car when I look at these thinking that I"ll have compression issues or a blown rear main seal...
Thank you for your excellent videos, but I feel like I should say that the distance between the chain rollers and where they fall on each consecutive tooth of the sprocket is different and the chain will try to climb out of the sprocket. It will probably be fine, but what dose a chain cost?
You're doing a great job! I'm just curious about the crankshaft bolt and why you oiled it instead of loctite? And did you use a new bolt? I may do my timing case gasket but the only thing holding me back is that damn crankshaft bolt haha
Hi, be very carefull when you put the head back in, a lot of people have scratch their by doint that way. If fucking heavy and long, and those center pin are a pain in the ass to align with the hole in the head. If you can be two for this job it will be way easyer, one hold the head and the second one look with a light and align correctly.
Thank you for your videos man. I like the way you explain. I am reassembling a m52 e36 engine. I wanted to put on the new front main seal and realized that the damper had a groove where the seal is. It looks like worn out. Is that normal? I am not sure but I think I saw the groove on your damper too. Can you help me?
50sKid Thanks! Yes I understand. Here's some info (from S54 data but should be same for M54).... "With the new engine design, new sealing technology is needed. The crankshaft seal is a good example of this. It is made of Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). Low friction and minimum power consumption are the main advantages of BMW utilizing a PTFE oil seal. Other benefits include, no sealing problems with dry operation or insufficient lubrication, an operating range of -130 degrees C to +200 degrees C, and a low breakaway torque after standstill."
The BMW TIS (for S54) calls for Loctite blue 243 which is oil resistant. Also the reason the bottom 2 bigger main seal bolts require it is that they penetrate the crank case and are exposed to oil (and could leak).
If you don't mind me asking - how much did this entire engine rebuild cost? I saw the machine shop bill was $1k. Also - what piston rings did you use? I read using m52 piston rings are better since they don't suffer from the same issues as m54 rings.
Thanks for sharing! You overbored the cylinders slightly, then? Used new pistons as well? How many miles were on your engine - I've rebuilt engines before and only did new rings/honing. Where do you draw the line? Also, where did you find your measuring tools for a good price?
I have the m56 in mine I've been watching some of your videos but how different are they? would I be able to use this video series for a rebuild of it?
50s 'kid .... look Iv been thinking about this I watched this a few days ago......look 'normally I sit and watch things contently quite........but now after going to college and trying to learn stuff my instructor would say ;Don don't just sit their.....if u see me doing something wrong then say something.......so 50s kid ......the cheap bolts u used.....yeah there only 80cent each but d actual hex torque spec bolts for your bm'r.......look the Engine is made and designed of special alloys which expand at certain temperatures......now ur hardened steel compisit bolts they have a different stretch radio........your going to destroy ur engine and I see u put ur heart into it.....any way ,look in about 9/10 weeks ,when u inspect the piston bores and top edges don't be upset if u see the start of tiny cracks.......this is the cheap bolts not allowing for that millionth of a fraction that the engine block needs to expand........"or maybe I'm wrong and I have misunderstood.......'ur videos are appreciated....and they are educational ok.......thanks //Don
50sKid...a tip for using that style of ring compressor...put the piston into it and snug it down before inserting the piston skirt into the bore. That way you can make sure the bottom of the compressor is fully covering the bottom piston ring. That is especially critical when using 3 piece oil control rings like the M52TU style.
You are an asset to Humanity and your Community
This channel is great. Your videos are fantastic, you’re considerate to the viewer in how you approach jobs, you make mistakes and keep them in there and you have a great narrative tone to everything you do. I’ve just bought an e46 330i and the plan is to make it into a dedicated track car. Your videos will help me so much and give me an opportunity to really get involved in the project rather than just taking it somewhere for someone else to do. Thank you!
I was shaking my head when you were reverse torquing
Jason, this has just been an outstanding effort on your part. As always, it gives the rest of us E46 guys the confidence to tackle anything! Thanks again.
14:30 I really appreciate seeing your struggle with the click torque wrench not indicating with LH threads. Personally, I think that there should be a notice engraved in red on the shaft telling mechanics that it doesn't work on LH threads. I will be using a beam type torque wrench to install my Rally Road oil pump nut once it arrives, along with some Loctite 266 for additional insurance.
Nice work.
Yes, most torque wrenches don't work in reverse direction unfortunately... something to keep in mind when installing the VANOS.
MAN OH MAN!!! I Can't wait for you to put it all together and start driving! I plan to do this for my channel soon. Thank you so much for everything :)
Thanks, man!
Awesome job! I'll share, every BMW and car enthusiast should see your videos!
It's all coming together! Have to do my rebuild in a few weeks so this is definitely inspirational. I do hope you film the virgin turnover :)
This video is very helpfull tutorial.gives me idea and fighting spirit I can be able to overhaul my motor myself.👍
Really good video 50sKid. Been following since the first video. I'm really excited to see you drop it back in the engine bay and hook it up. Please video the first time you start the car up! :) I bet it'll sound a lot quieter than most e46s as it's almost like a brand new engine now!
Outstanding work sir. Hats off to you. Nice videos.
I remember in the early 80's I used to build engines for me and my friends. I used red locktite on rod bearing bolts and used a torque wrench from JC Penny with the needle no clicker because no $$ at 17 yrs. old LOL.
when you put the torque wrench in reverse to torque I just new it wouldn't work. I was practically yelling at the screen lol. that sucks that you went through two nuts.
Well I wish I'd done it live or something lol. Oh well.
I also screamed ;-)
The mech a nic I also ran into the same issue when I was trying to torque the reverse bolts that go into the vanos. So only digital torque wrenches go both ways?
me too, the same issue, torque wrench doesnt work for left side -mechanical one,
I was just about to ask the same question if a mechanical torque wrench worked in reverse. I am glad that he left that in the video. These videos are really serving e46 owners in his being so open. Now I have learned something new and that is the whole point of these videos. Thanks!!
the most rewarding part of the build, right? nice vid!
yep, it's nice to see it come together
Great presentation.!!!
Estoy siguiendo todos los pasos en este vídeo, gracias!
Coming right along. Bummer about that torque wrench on the oil nut. I knew something wasn't right.
Could you please tell me where did you get from details with the exact parameters for tightening each screw (torque) on the engine?
Thanks, greats from Austria
Is there studs coming out of that rod you should put a little cut piece of rubber holes on them bolts so it does not scratch your crankshaft
You could use ball bearing grease to paste the gaskets on the front chain cover that coulb be easier
Dunk the splash guard in Simple Green 30-70 with water in a bucket and it will clean itself in a few hours
just the best 330 e46 videos....... what is the engine rebuild book you mention ?
beautiful job...
Ponta Grossa city Brazil
great info video👍🏻
I can appreciate the logic you use for re-using main cap bolts....but why did you not apply or extend it to the conrod bolts? I think you are able to re-use conrod bolts as well????
I take it that you did not replace the spring for the oil pressure release valve..that spring controls oil pressure to everything and they do loose tension
good job thanks for the video
Hi, can you tell me the correct ring’s position
1st of all thank you for the videos they are very helpful i have not seen priming of the oil pump before start up i saw the rebuild of the pump what is the process for priming?
Dude I've just realized that your car is basically a clone of mine. Mine is a 2002 330i with stallgrau metallic paint with the premium and sport package, with 178k, and an A/T!!!
You’re the best
difference between red and blue loctite?
I don't think the torqe wrench is working backwards do you say 18 lbs
hi, what engine and car model is it? thanks !!!👍🏻😎
I prefer checking you working than looking Dr. House.
well done
Hi, you use a star torx socket to torque the rod bearing caps or a hexagonal socket?
A question the culture is mounted once or later to place the block inside the vehicle, which is more advisable?
The culture? What do you mean?
Excuseme you meant, the engine head is assembled before or after engaging the engine with the transmission
hi, did you use your old connecting rod bolts or did you buy new ones?
Read instruction of your torque wrench. Altering direction for reverse thread wil require you to readjust the torque setting of the wrench.
.....no gasket on d oil pan.....!!...is that possible
Get a 3/8" Snap-On Techangle. Major timesaver.
Do you think that this engine was mistreated a bit? I get nervous for my car when I look at these thinking that I"ll have compression issues or a blown rear main seal...
It was definitely mistreated. I doubt anybody will have a blown rear main seal on these engines.
Thank you for your excellent videos, but I feel like I should say that the distance between the chain rollers and where they fall on each consecutive tooth of the sprocket is different and the chain will try to climb out of the sprocket. It will probably be fine, but what dose a chain cost?
I don't feel like the play that developed in the chain was anywhere near that much, but I hear you and you're right
You're doing a great job! I'm just curious about the crankshaft bolt and why you oiled it instead of loctite? And did you use a new bolt? I may do my timing case gasket but the only thing holding me back is that damn crankshaft bolt haha
So did you re use the main bearing cap bolts?
I'm doing all the reconstruction with your videos, for when it uploads the following
Hi, be very carefull when you put the head back in, a lot of people have scratch their by doint that way. If fucking heavy and long, and those center pin are a pain in the ass to align with the hole in the head. If you can be two for this job it will be way easyer, one hold the head and the second one look with a light and align correctly.
Tip: when the gaskets don't stay where you want them use a litle grease to fix them.
good tip
Did you try soaking the baffle plate in caustic solution?
It's aluminum. Caustic solution will dissolve the aluminum oxide layer and break it down.
Ah. thought it was tin. Yes keep caustic away from aluminum.
Some mech wrenches can be flipped around.
Im from Brazil Im not speak inglish very weel good job
Thank you for your videos man. I like the way you explain.
I am reassembling a m52 e36 engine.
I wanted to put on the new front main seal and realized that the damper had a groove where the seal is. It looks like worn out.
Is that normal? I am not sure but I think I saw the groove on your damper too. Can you help me?
Yeah that's normal and ok--you should be fine
Was that a new RMS/Crankshsft sesl?
are you keeping the 02 pilot mod. after changing to 52tu oil rings
No there's no need for it anymore
Jason! Apologies if I missed it, but did you install the crank pulley without lubing the seal area?!!
Yes those go in dry as per the instructions.
50sKid Thanks! Yes I understand. Here's some info (from S54 data but should be same for M54)....
"With the new engine design, new sealing technology is needed. The crankshaft seal is a good example of this. It is made of Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). Low friction and minimum power consumption are the main advantages of BMW utilizing a PTFE oil seal. Other benefits include, no sealing problems with dry operation or insufficient lubrication, an operating range of -130 degrees C to +200 degrees C, and a low breakaway torque after standstill."
Hello, did you replaced bolt of cranck pulley? Or used old one?
Used the old one
I threw out my craftsman torque wrenches a long time ago. Snapon ftw.
hi there, very nice video.. What type of threadlock do you use? The blue and red, where can i purchase them from.. Thanks! :)
I'm not sure what type of blue loctite I'm using--whatever kind of blue loctite you find should be fine. The red is 266 amzn.to/2kM1YSV
The BMW TIS (for S54) calls for Loctite blue 243 which is oil resistant. Also the reason the bottom 2 bigger main seal bolts require it is that they penetrate the crank case and are exposed to oil (and could leak).
If you don't mind me asking - how much did this entire engine rebuild cost? I saw the machine shop bill was $1k. Also - what piston rings did you use? I read using m52 piston rings are better since they don't suffer from the same issues as m54 rings.
About $2500 including parts and tools. Yes I used M52TU style oil rings. There is a link in the description on where to get those.
Thanks for sharing! You overbored the cylinders slightly, then? Used new pistons as well? How many miles were on your engine - I've rebuilt engines before and only did new rings/honing. Where do you draw the line?
Also, where did you find your measuring tools for a good price?
Another one I thought of - maybe I missed it - how did you decide what version bearings to buy?
Your key is left-handed?
I think not, check it out !
Digital key works both ways.
The usual keys only work in one way.
I have the m56 in mine I've been watching some of your videos but how different are they? would I be able to use this video series for a rebuild of it?
It just has a different valve cover. Different connecting rods. The rest is the same.
Yeah most mechanical torque wrenches don't work in the reverse.
I was stressed out during most of the Part 1 episode by the missing stress plates ;)
I had to use dental floss to hold the gaskets on for placement
Yeah, most mechanical torque wrenches are one directional. :(
It does click in the reverse direction, so that's what threw me!
50s 'kid .... look Iv been thinking about this I watched this a few days ago......look 'normally I sit and watch things contently quite........but now after going to college and trying to learn stuff my instructor would say ;Don don't just sit their.....if u see me doing something wrong then say something.......so 50s kid ......the cheap bolts u used.....yeah there only 80cent each but d actual hex torque spec bolts for your bm'r.......look the Engine is made and designed of special alloys which expand at certain temperatures......now ur hardened steel compisit bolts they have a different stretch radio........your going to destroy ur engine and I see u put ur heart into it.....any way ,look in about 9/10 weeks ,when u inspect the piston bores and top edges don't be upset if u see the start of tiny cracks.......this is the cheap bolts not allowing for that millionth of a fraction that the engine block needs to expand........"or maybe I'm wrong and I have misunderstood.......'ur videos are appreciated....and they are educational ok.......thanks //Don
Never trust a Craftsman torque wrench!
I don't trust wire wheel. Maybe the wires go in the engine
Use RAW ALUMINUM CLEANER Aluminex-E. By Santex corporation ,is a chemical cleaning process
Use assemblies lub,not use oil in CRANK SHAFT bearing