Hey Brandon, great news, I'm glad I could help :) I have made a load more videos on the XR6 if you check through my channel, please give the thumbs up and thanks for watching :) Ross
Good video mate, nicely done. Only issue I have is you not using a jackstand very dangerous sticking your head in the wheelwell without one, a decent block of wood works if you don't have a pair.
Thanks for your comment, yes agreed this was at a friends house and he has a limited amount of tools, hence throwing the wheel under the car. Thank you for your comment :)
Hi nice video helps a lot I have the same car but I’m putting bigger rotors on the fronts 322mm instead of 298mm I have the bigger bracket to support the calliper do you think this would be easy to change or should you know how to do it thankyou
Hi there Anthony, yes should be easy enough not to dissimilar to changing the rotors in this video, albeit you will need to put the adapter bracket on prior to reinstalling the rotor and caliper, thanks for watching
Hi I thought with the ABS system fitted, you couldn't push the calipers back in and the fluid back up to the master cylinder through the system,. You had to release it through the bleeder screw.
Great video man, thank you it will help me changing my pads and rotors on my XR6. Stupid Question, heat shield is it really necessary to put back on! Or each to their own bro.
Hi Luke, I would always put them back on, as it also helps keep the rotors cleaner, but I have known other to remove theirs. Thanks for watching and your comment, Ross
You may notice that the FG gets the "brake wobble". Fords have had a problem ever since the mid 90s with the phasing out of asbestos brakes where the rotors will warp due to excessive heat caused by non asbestos discs. I have seen it on an ED, had it in an EL and an AU, and WAS HOPING they had fixed it in the FG. I bought an FG G6 (one with the suede leather seats and fog lights) and I am starting to get a very slight wobble in it. I had a boss with an EF and the thing would just about jump with brake wobble. The only REAL WAY to fix it is aftermarket brake rotors and discs. Anything before the BA tends to have a high chance of leaking power steering pumps but they completely changed the pump in the BA.
Great feedback thanks for the comment, I also think there are too many cheap after market options for the fords, so people tend to buy them over the better quality ones
Thanks for the video. Just curious, is it necessary to use a thread locker/loctite type glue on the bolts used to secure the caliper? I noticed that with these there was some "red" colour on part it, not sure if a thread locker glue had been used. This is for a BA 2003 Fairmont Ghia which is much like this.
Hi There John, if you have some to hand it is never a bad idea, they certainly come out the factory with some locktite there. However it is not necessary, just an extra precaution.
I understand this is two years old, but for anyone else looking further down the line, i would 100% put some form of threadlocker on. Those bolts will work themselves loose eventually, and you dont need you're brakes locked on while on the highway.
Hi there, yes the procedure would be the same, its always good practice to put a small amount of coper grease on the back of the pads, not too much though. Thanks for watching.
Hi there, thanks for your comments, it shouldn't be too dissimilar as they share a lot of components, However I have not worked on one before. RegardsRoss
@@RossPerryProductions cheers mate I got it sorted for the weekend also can u do a topic on ford barra gas engine as in what difference is there to maintenance e.g. does gas motor take same motor oil as to a petrol motor? Regards
If you are replacing with new, I would recommend bleeding it, as it is a quick and cheap process. If you are confident, it has been done recently you may choose to do it at a later date.
@@RossPerryProductions hey I had a look at the brake fluid and it’s till at the top, bleeding them means emptying out the old fluid and flushing right? What will happen if I just replace the front pads? Do you just press the brakes a few times to get those pistons back out again and just drive gently for a while until they seat in?
Hi there, no not exactly, it is very important to never let the reservoir go below the low line as air could get introduced to the system. The pistons will be in position a short time after the peddle has been depressed. but yes it will take a few hundred kms before the high spots wear off of the pads before they are all in contact with the disc rotors @@noproblama9971
I'd probably cover the fluid reservoir with a clean rag to stop foreign material from getting into it, and catching any overflow. Don't want that stuff dripping around your engine bay. Good vid otherwise 👍
@@RossPerryProductions The metal part of the brake pad has exactly the same pattern on both ends so either of your new pads can fit as the inner or outer pad, they are interchangeable. But that also means they can just as easily be put in reversed...... as in this case. The inner pad on the drivers side front wheel had the meat against the pistons and the metal against the rotor. His brother did it, before selling him the car, and without bothering to test drive it.
@@RossPerryProductions Yes, they did. Brake pad in back to front metal to metal. Here, I knocked up a short video for you to laugh at. This is what I found with the wheel taken off. ruclips.net/video/F5SLSDb5Rls/видео.html
Hi there, It wont be miles apart from this, most brakes have the same replacement procedures, however the bolt size and type change as well as their locations. Thanks for watching.
@@RossPerryProductions thanks, I'll try the WD-40, as well as turning the wheel out a little for a better angle and a breaker bar for more leverage. Should do the trick
@@marcogonzalez7829 Hi Marco, It looks like there is some space so 8" should be sufficient, Unfortunately I no longer have access to the vehicle to check. Ross
Hi there, i have made a video showing the rear pads too ruclips.net/video/Ax0gMIVfU5Y/видео.html , however the rotors/discs did not need changing. You will need to make sure the car is in park or gear and suitably supported, then release the handbrake.
Ideally a middle to good quality, there are some shocking cheap ones out there, the metal quality does vary as long as they are purchased from a reputable shop you should be ok.
@@ricksfamily2000 As RP has said, this is indeed a Falcon. I can confirm as myself and the in-laws own four of them (one AU, two BF, and one BFII, all wagons) as well as the 'dead line' in the backyard of all their old XD/XE/EF paddock monsters.
Mate this video was my go to video for change my rotors and pads on my fg today. Thanks a lot for sharing .
No worries at all, i'm glad it helped. please remember to give the thumbs up and subscribe :) Ross
I got quoted a grand, front and back rotor + pad replacement. I think this vid will help me heaps and save me a heap of money! Thanks heaps mate
Hey Brandon, great news, I'm glad I could help :) I have made a load more videos on the XR6 if you check through my channel, please give the thumbs up and thanks for watching :) Ross
This was so helpful. Got me out of a mess! Thank you!
No worries glad I could help :)
Am gonna try on my G6 Thanks for your video fingers crossed I can complete myself 👍
Hi Serena, Good luck let me know if you have any issues. Ross
Great vid im actually watching this right now to do a job on my xr6 thanks mate 🖒🖒🖒
Pleased I can help :) thank you for your comment
nice clear easy intructions ! now i will do my own!!! cheers mate!!
strike kahe thanks for watching glad I could help
Thanks mate for sharing this will help me to do mine
No worries at all thanks for watching and your comment.
Good video mate, nicely done. Only issue I have is you not using a jackstand very dangerous sticking your head in the wheelwell without one, a decent block of wood works if you don't have a pair.
Thanks for your comment, yes agreed this was at a friends house and he has a limited amount of tools, hence throwing the wheel under the car. Thank you for your comment :)
Nice video mate! Thanks!
No worries at all, thanks for watching and your comment.
Fantastic video mate. Thanks a lot.
No worries at all thanks for watching.
Thanks mate can do it my self now
No worries thanks for watching :)
Thank you this was very helpful..
No worries, thanks for watching, please give the thumbs up and subscribe to my channel :)
Hi nice video helps a lot
I have the same car but I’m putting bigger rotors on the fronts 322mm instead of 298mm I have the bigger bracket to support the calliper do you think this would be easy to change or should you know how to do it thankyou
Hi there Anthony, yes should be easy enough not to dissimilar to changing the rotors in this video, albeit you will need to put the adapter bracket on prior to reinstalling the rotor and caliper, thanks for watching
Hi I thought with the ABS system fitted, you couldn't push the calipers back in and the fluid back up to the master cylinder through the system,. You had to release it through the bleeder screw.
Jo Kermie, thats not an issue I have come across on the Falcons before, I would always recommend a re-bleed anyway. Ross
Great video man, thank you it will help me changing my pads and rotors on my XR6. Stupid Question, heat shield is it really necessary to put back on! Or each to their own bro.
Hi Luke, I would always put them back on, as it also helps keep the rotors cleaner, but I have known other to remove theirs. Thanks for watching and your comment,
Ross
You should have sprayed brake cleaner and wiped those new disc rotors to get that machine oil film off. Other than that great video
Thanks for your comment
You may notice that the FG gets the "brake wobble". Fords have had a problem ever since the mid 90s with the phasing out of asbestos brakes where the rotors will warp due to excessive heat caused by non asbestos discs. I have seen it on an ED, had it in an EL and an AU, and WAS HOPING they had fixed it in the FG. I bought an FG G6 (one with the suede leather seats and fog lights) and I am starting to get a very slight wobble in it. I had a boss with an EF and the thing would just about jump with brake wobble. The only REAL WAY to fix it is aftermarket brake rotors and discs. Anything before the BA tends to have a high chance of leaking power steering pumps but they completely changed the pump in the BA.
Great feedback thanks for the comment, I also think there are too many cheap after market options for the fords, so people tend to buy them over the better quality ones
Thanks for the video. Just curious, is it necessary to use a thread locker/loctite type glue on the bolts used to secure the caliper? I noticed that with these there was some "red" colour on part it, not sure if a thread locker glue had been used. This is for a BA 2003 Fairmont Ghia which is much like this.
Hi There John, if you have some to hand it is never a bad idea, they certainly come out the factory with some locktite there. However it is not necessary, just an extra precaution.
I understand this is two years old, but for anyone else looking further down the line, i would 100% put some form of threadlocker on.
Those bolts will work themselves loose eventually, and you dont need you're brakes locked on while on the highway.
Thanks mate excellent video
thanks mate glad i can help :)
great video mate...thanks
no worries Nathan, I'm glad to help
Hi mate. Mine is ford falcon 2008 XT, is that the same procedure? No need to put grease on the pads? I like to DIY. To help me save some grands :)
Hi there, yes the procedure would be the same, its always good practice to put a small amount of coper grease on the back of the pads, not too much though. Thanks for watching.
Nicely described.
Thanks very much for watching and your comment. Ross
Thanks Mate, I just ordered me some DBA T2 slotted Rotors and Bendix HD pads, is it exactly the same method?
HI Zach, yes it is :) Thanks for watching please give the thumbs up.
@@RossPerryProductions cheers mate! sure have!
I seen rotors at SCA today for $89. Got the same exact brand for $30 on ebay.
Yes its much better to see if you can get them direct from the suppliers on ebay first
Hey top.video I'm confident enough to do my own now
.my Ford is a bf ute should be the same ? Cheers
Hi there, thanks for your comments, it shouldn't be too dissimilar as they share a lot of components, However I have not worked on one before. RegardsRoss
@@RossPerryProductions cheers mate I got it sorted for the weekend also can u do a topic on ford barra gas engine as in what difference is there to maintenance e.g. does gas motor take same motor oil as to a petrol motor? Regards
good video but do you need to bleed them or anything or just put the top on the brale fluid and drive?
If you are replacing with new, I would recommend bleeding it, as it is a quick and cheap process. If you are confident, it has been done recently you may choose to do it at a later date.
@@RossPerryProductions ahh yes not sure how to bleed them will have to find a video!
Super easy, but better to do with 2 people@@noproblama9971
@@RossPerryProductions hey I had a look at the brake fluid and it’s till at the top, bleeding them means emptying out the old fluid and flushing right? What will happen if I just replace the front pads? Do you just press the brakes a few times to get those pistons back out again and just drive gently for a while until they seat in?
Hi there, no not exactly, it is very important to never let the reservoir go below the low line as air could get introduced to the system. The pistons will be in position a short time after the peddle has been depressed. but yes it will take a few hundred kms before the high spots wear off of the pads before they are all in contact with the disc rotors @@noproblama9971
I'd probably cover the fluid reservoir with a clean rag to stop foreign material from getting into it, and catching any overflow. Don't want that stuff dripping around your engine bay. Good vid otherwise 👍
Thanks for the comment, a good suggestion :)
@@RossPerryProductions I've got the same car, I'll be doing this on the long weekend thanks to you showing how easy it was !
No Problem at all, I also have videos of changing, the rear pads, alternator, radiator fan, and air filter too :)
About to do this on a friends Ford that had a brake pad in back to front..... You reckon your rotor's worn...!!!!
haha wow that's insane how did that even happen!
@@RossPerryProductions The metal part of the brake pad has exactly the same pattern on both ends so either of your new pads can fit as the inner or outer pad, they are interchangeable. But that also means they can just as easily be put in reversed...... as in this case. The inner pad on the drivers side front wheel had the meat against the pistons and the metal against the rotor. His brother did it, before selling him the car, and without bothering to test drive it.
Arhh I follow you now I thought you meant they had put the metal part against the disc haha
@@RossPerryProductions Yes they did, the brake pad was in reversed so that the metal part of the brake pad was rubbing on the rotor (metal on metal).
@@RossPerryProductions Yes, they did. Brake pad in back to front metal to metal. Here, I knocked up a short video for you to laugh at. This is what I found with the wheel taken off. ruclips.net/video/F5SLSDb5Rls/видео.html
I've got a SZ Territory - reckon it'll be the same?
PS thanks for the video
Hi there, It wont be miles apart from this, most brakes have the same replacement procedures, however the bolt size and type change as well as their locations. Thanks for watching.
Is this the same method for changing the brake pads on a BA XR6 Falcon ?
Hi there, Yes it will not be too dissimilar, regards Ross
Thanks mate
No worries Pilot Hound Thanks for watching, please give the thumbs up :)
Any one have any ideas how to get the 12mm nuts off? Mine are definitely not hand tight, as his were
Hi there have you tried coating them in WD40 (making sure it doesn't go on your discs) then using a decent ring spanner?
@@RossPerryProductions thanks, I'll try the WD-40, as well as turning the wheel out a little for a better angle and a breaker bar for more leverage. Should do the trick
What size G clamp is that mate?
That one there is a 9"
@@RossPerryProductions Do you think an 8 inch will be big enough? I'm having trouble finding a 9 inch.
@@marcogonzalez7829 Hi Marco, It looks like there is some space so 8" should be sufficient, Unfortunately I no longer have access to the vehicle to check. Ross
Is this the same as for the rear aswell?
Hi there, i have made a video showing the rear pads too ruclips.net/video/Ax0gMIVfU5Y/видео.html , however the rotors/discs did not need changing. You will need to make sure the car is in park or gear and suitably supported, then release the handbrake.
Does it matter what kind of rotors I Buy,
Ideally a middle to good quality, there are some shocking cheap ones out there, the metal quality does vary as long as they are purchased from a reputable shop you should be ok.
Cheers still learning about cars etc, does the fg have a specific rotor or can I get any rotor from super cheap for an example
no super cheap are good, just give them your VIN number or the year and model and they will get you the right ones, or Repco
you have to make sure they are the same diameter, otherwise the caliper cradles wont fit
Never seen a heatshield over the top like that. I'm sure everyone takes them off and chucks them away
I'm sure a lot do.
hey mate, give those rims a fuckn clean
The whole car needed a good scrub!! it wasn't my car.
Not a falcon. Change the title.
Hi Brian, this car was produced in Australia and badged as a Falcon, I don't believe they made it out to the USA.
Oh... thanks for clarifying
@@ricksfamily2000 As RP has said, this is indeed a Falcon. I can confirm as myself and the in-laws own four of them (one AU, two BF, and one BFII, all wagons) as well as the 'dead line' in the backyard of all their old XD/XE/EF paddock monsters.
americans.....
I have alot of trouble getting the rear off. I think they are rusted on really well. I've bought a rotor Grabber so will see how that goes
Good luck with the new tool, can always use a bit of heat too to break the corrosion though expansion.