I have had really good results from staining the top (flamed maple usually) and not the side of a cap and then using my router with a round over bit to create the Faux binding. I get a really clean line and the process is simple.
Cool demo guys. I liked seeing the wrong process to use. I WON’T do that!🙄 Do you have a video with the right way to do it? That’d be great. Awesome tape job Chris!
Sounds great Matt, I always look forward to your Challenger builds. I always thought those two white Challengers with the Mike Learn pinstripe were ESPECIALLY bad-ass!
Guys great video. you have to Carefully seal the Mapel binding area with Shellac and a Q-tip. By doing this it won’t allow the seepage to penetrate through the maple binding area. 😊 it’s works AMAZING. I have done many of these. I learned the hard way. HOPE THIS HELPS
matt, I recently refinished a PRS and used automotive woodgrain tape cut to 1/4" width applied over clear coated color, then recleared the body. worked great. TTG forever!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, yeah, that is the way we have been telling people to do it for as long as we have been getting this question. Last week some guy was spouting off about how you could do it on bare wood and we told him that, no, we do not recommend that. He kept chiding us said we were rude.
I was curious if you guys ever did a faux binding on a painted guitar. Meaning, possibly paint the guitar white and wait for the color to set then mask off the area you want to show as a binding, and then paint the guitar the main color that was planned, but one that is much darker like a dark blue or even jet black. Is that something that would work, or would it turn out looking bad?
Sprays gracias the edge of the tape at a 45 decreto Angel Will prevent most seepage, but as previously comentado capillary acción will make the stain seep inside or unde the surface Using the stand sparingly and using 2 or 3 súper thin coats Michael get an aceptable result
Nice honest vid, guys. I have seen Big D, tape off the area around the faux binding and then paint the faux binding with sanding sealer with a watercolor brush. Once it dries, he then peels off the tape and then tapes off the binding. That way, if he gets seepage under the tapes as he stains, he can just sand off the bleeds because they are on top of the sanding sealer. Not advocating for it. That's just how I've seen him do it. seems like a lot of work that way.
@@TexasToastGuitars Your finishes are really nice but Paul's guitars are also pretty nice... If you did want to stain/use dyes in the wood to try and get the kind of effect PRS gets then you can't seal the whole thing. Dyed wood looks "alive" and more three-dimensional. I tried to do faux-binding and got a lot more seepage than you guys did ;) I did get a beautiful non-splotchy top though. Spraying tint is just different...
Matt, you said during the video that you should put down sealer first and then put dye over the sealer. How would that work? Dye works by penetrating the wood, but sealer prevents that. Do you mean stain?
So, I've had great success doing exactly this. Only major difference is that I don't saturate my application pad nearly as much as you did here, and my stain goes on relatively dry by comparison, with much less bleed in general. You recommend sealing and spraying your color. But if you are working with figured wood, does that not defeat the purpose?
SCOTT, this is how they do it for lower-tier 'budget' guitars. Saves a few minutes in production so a few bucks too and usually comes out passable for buyers with astigmatism. When it really goes off the rails they sand off the name brand, stick on a Mitchell decal, and sell it at Guitar Center for about $50 less. All kidding aside, this faux-binding technique is always risky and is going to require some time-consuming hand detailing along the edges before lacquering or varnishing the guitar. It's pros are it's an interesting and often highly complimentary effect that also replaces the unquestionably more expensive way of putting on an acetate (non stain-absorbing) binding, which still has to be scraped anyway but it's not as difficult to do because any stain bleed is only on the surface of the plastic, not in the pores or grain of the wood on the wrong side of the tape line.
We will be doing a deep dive into this coming soon. We just don't have any guitars to do this video with ready right now. Anyway, it will be coming soon. Maybe in a live setting so people can ask questions.
What kind of moron would think that a product that is made to soak into wood is not going to bleed under masking tape - it's called capillary action - Thanks for the video Matt and Chris
That is a good little tool... Get you one and one for your friends too! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084D1RF9Z/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B084D1RF9Z&linkCode=as2&tag=texastoastg0b-20&linkId=ca4f7615f13f6fc3251e6c6f5257bc78
We will be doing a deep dive into this coming soon. We just don't have any guitars to do this video with ready right now. Anyway, it will be coming soon. Maybe in a live setting so people can ask questions.
Check out the prs expirience video they walk through the entire process the top is completely stained an the binding reveal is scraped not masked on top...its done right before sealing finish...
3m also sells what they call "fine line masking tape" that leaves a crisper line than the standard stuff. This is the PERFECT application for it. We used it all the time in automotive refinishing. I suspect it may actually work well enough to use. Its actually not paper so it's resistant to solvents and stuff. And they have a bunch of different kinds and widths. I believe it's also thinner, more low-profile than the paper tape so you don't get as much build up at the edge/line. Meaning it might be 0.001" off the surface vs 0.005" for the paper tape. It's not as thick.
@@JC-11111 @JC that's one of the tapes we used. The lesson here isn't the tape we used or didn't use, its the method. I know how to tape, and what tape to use for what application. staining or dying raw wood will never work perfectly. Capillary action draws color where you don't want it. That was the point.
Matt, take this with a grain of salt but, my friend's wife worked in testing and R&D for over 20 years for DuPont's paint and coatings division. She said to avoid blue painter's tape and hardware store tapes in general. She claimed that the adhesives on that stuff is formulated to lock out latex/water base paints, not solvent based paints. I switched to automotive masking tape and have not had any lacquer bleed under the tape since. My local NAPA store carries a full line of it and I fix his kids guitars regularly! DISCOUNT! LOL! Keep the videos coming! They keep my brain from frying while doing the mundane repairs!
You are 100% correct. We also use the automotive fine line tape. What we were attempting to infer with this video is that dye can bleed under the tape if you are using it on raw wood.
No... We will be doing a deep dive into this coming soon. We just don't have any guitars to do this video with ready right now. Anyway, it will be coming soon. Maybe in a live setting so people can ask questions.
Sanding sealer goes on first, then the tape. Experiment on your own materials as your mileage will vary. I prefer to spray the stain coat, so I'd clear coat before that too.
@@TexasToastGuitars Thanks! in that video can you answer a technical question? If I'm using nitro sanding sealer to lock in my color, can I still clear coat with 2K poly? or it there a more poly-friendly sanding sealer? The Oxford stuff I use just rocks but I don't love nitro clear one bit.
You are correct. That is not how it's done. No taping, use a much dryer applicator. dont let it run down the side. The tape is why the edge looks bad. You guys know more than me about guitar building, but you clearly do not know how to do that. Also it is always done on raw wood. No sealer. I have hard time believing that you think it is done the way you are doing it. There are hundreds of youtube videos of this being done correctly.
I promise we will make a video with full details on how to do it right. If you are dyeing woods or staining woods... I think, you are doing it wrong. If you disagree with me that is fine. You should sign up for our guitar building contest and show everyone your guitars. Plus you could win a fat stack of cash
@@TexasToastGuitars I am not at all trying to claim to be better at finishing guitars than you. I have never succeeded at getting a finish that approaches the quality of your average, nor was I attempting to suggest that your method of spraying tinted finish to color wood is in any way inferior to any other method of coloring wood. I merely suggest that to disparage a commonly used method just because you use a different method may not be in the service of your viewers. I like you guys, and watch all your videos. This is the first subject I have ever seen you address in a manner I find questionable, and I apologize if I have offended.
I have had really good results from staining the top (flamed maple usually) and not the side of a cap and then using my router with a round over bit to create the Faux binding. I get a really clean line and the process is simple.
Yeah man that's cool
Cool demo guys. I liked seeing the wrong process to use. I WON’T do that!🙄
Do you have a video with the right way to do it? That’d be great. Awesome tape job Chris!
We will be having a how to do it video soon. We are just about ready to do a batch of Challengers
Sounds great Matt, I always look forward to your Challenger builds. I always thought those two white Challengers with the Mike Learn pinstripe were ESPECIALLY bad-ass!
6) l8p
cool stuff,i learn something new from every vid you guys do.
Glad to hear it!
Guys great video. you have to Carefully seal the Mapel binding area with Shellac and a Q-tip. By doing this it won’t allow the seepage to penetrate through the maple binding area. 😊 it’s works AMAZING. I have done many of these. I learned the hard way. HOPE THIS HELPS
Like I say... I think you are half right.
Stick around for the next video about this and we'll show you how we have been doing it for a few years
Great tip of what not to do , guys !! Love these type of videos !! Thank you !!
We will be bringing you the how to actually do it video soon
I was surprised at how good it turned out was expecting a lot worse result.
I was surprised too David
Good instructions. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful Brian
hey chris, I sent the tape to you. donald faulk in louisiana. same guy as the toaster amp. love the instructional videos!
You are the man Don, thanks a million
yes! I couldn't remember your name on the spot. Tape works great!
Planning to do a follow up video with your preferred method?
Yes, soon
I think it will be a live video as well
Good enough for Government work... Thanks for saving me some heartache, was considering this method on a build, I think ill save my tape instead...
We will be doing a video soon about how we do this process.
Thnx for this video.
Most welcome
matt, I recently refinished a PRS and used automotive woodgrain tape cut to 1/4" width applied over clear coated color, then recleared the body. worked great. TTG forever!!!!!!!!!!!
Well, yeah, that is the way we have been telling people to do it for as long as we have been getting this question.
Last week some guy was spouting off about how you could do it on bare wood and we told him that, no, we do not recommend that. He kept chiding us said we were rude.
I was curious if you guys ever did a faux binding on a painted guitar. Meaning, possibly paint the guitar white and wait for the color to set then mask off the area you want to show as a binding, and then paint the guitar the main color that was planned, but one that is much darker like a dark blue or even jet black. Is that something that would work, or would it turn out looking bad?
We do and the video is coming soon
Sprays gracias the edge of the tape at a 45 decreto Angel Will prevent most seepage, but as previously comentado capillary acción will make the stain seep inside or unde the surface
Using the stand sparingly and using 2 or 3 súper thin coats Michael get an aceptable result
I think some of this got lost in translation
Epic!!! 🤣🤣
Chris is the Best!!!
He is the man!
@2:16 - Chris's third hand was very helpful! I for sure need a third hand! 🤣
It comes in really handy
Have you done a video on the end to end process of doing proper binding on a painted body, using a clear coat finish?
That is coming soon, we have a batch of Challengers that will be getting this treatment and we will show you how to do it the right way
Nice honest vid, guys. I have seen Big D, tape off the area around the faux binding and then paint the faux binding with sanding sealer with a watercolor brush. Once it dries, he then peels off the tape and then tapes off the binding. That way, if he gets seepage under the tapes as he stains, he can just sand off the bleeds because they are on top of the sanding sealer. Not advocating for it. That's just how I've seen him do it. seems like a lot of work that way.
I still don't know why one wouldn't just seal the whole thing.
@@TexasToastGuitars Your finishes are really nice but Paul's guitars are also pretty nice... If you did want to stain/use dyes in the wood to try and get the kind of effect PRS gets then you can't seal the whole thing. Dyed wood looks "alive" and more three-dimensional. I tried to do faux-binding and got a lot more seepage than you guys did ;) I did get a beautiful non-splotchy top though. Spraying tint is just different...
@@guythetechguy You are half right
Looks like more effort than non-faux binding.
This way sure as hell is Jim
Matt, you said during the video that you should put down sealer first and then put dye over the sealer. How would that work? Dye works by penetrating the wood, but sealer prevents that. Do you mean stain?
Nope, I mean dye
We will be doing a lot of videos about finish techniques in the next few months. All your questions should be answered then.
I don't know if this would help, but with Painting you would remove the tape BEFORE it has a chance to wick under the tape.
We will do a video soon of how we actually do this technique
Matt, I love that shirt! Where can I find that? I neeeeed it
So, I've had great success doing exactly this. Only major difference is that I don't saturate my application pad nearly as much as you did here, and my stain goes on relatively dry by comparison, with much less bleed in general.
You recommend sealing and spraying your color. But if you are working with figured wood, does that not defeat the purpose?
You will just have to wait and see
It looks good enough for an Epiphone or Squier, lol. Nice video guys.
Oh yeah!
SCOTT, this is how they do it for lower-tier 'budget' guitars. Saves a few minutes in production so a few bucks too and usually comes out passable for buyers with astigmatism. When it really goes off the rails they sand off the name brand, stick on a Mitchell decal, and sell it at Guitar Center for about $50 less. All kidding aside, this faux-binding technique is always risky and is going to require some time-consuming hand detailing along the edges before lacquering or varnishing the guitar. It's pros are it's an interesting and often highly complimentary effect that also replaces the unquestionably more expensive way of putting on an acetate (non stain-absorbing) binding, which still has to be scraped anyway but it's not as difficult to do because any stain bleed is only on the surface of the plastic, not in the pores or grain of the wood on the wrong side of the tape line.
Cool beans.let’s see how you do it next .
That video is coming soon. I think it might even be a live demo one
great idea! Spray the color mixed in clear?
Yes, thanks
HAHAHA
look at that man tape !!!! go johnny go go go go johnny go !!!!
Chris is mega fast
You got vid on how to do it your way? The correct way?
We will be doing a deep dive into this coming soon. We just don't have any guitars to do this video with ready right now. Anyway, it will be coming soon. Maybe in a live setting so people can ask questions.
@@TexasToastGuitars
Fantastic. I’m looking forward to it
What kind of moron would think that a product that is made to soak into wood is not going to bleed under masking tape - it's called capillary action - Thanks for the video Matt and Chris
Love it…….Matt confusion……. Nub!!!!
Cool utility knife, where do we find one Matt?
That is a good little tool... Get you one and one for your friends too!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084D1RF9Z/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B084D1RF9Z&linkCode=as2&tag=texastoastg0b-20&linkId=ca4f7615f13f6fc3251e6c6f5257bc78
Capillary action sucks
HAHAHA you know it.
Nice pun
Just sealer is the proper step?
We will be doing a deep dive into this coming soon. We just don't have any guitars to do this video with ready right now. Anyway, it will be coming soon. Maybe in a live setting so people can ask questions.
Hey, it looks OK from 20 feet away! lol Not anywhere good enough for prime time tho.
Totally, Chris said that some people might think it was GTG
It kinda worked. Definitely not a sure thing. There is risk on how that die may seep under the tape. Boy that knife looked cool and handy!! Lol
I know right, it's not just like PaPa's but still pretty slick :)
Trans tint? Is that pink tint that identifies as blue tint?
If you think that the abbreviation "trans" can only be short for "transgender"
@@TexasToastGuitars Take 1 of these 'sense of humour' pills three times daily until cured.
Just be sure to put about two coats of shellac on the binding area 🙂
I think that is half right
@@TexasToastGuitars Ahhh, 4 coats!
Prs guitars scrapes the binding an doesnt tape at all
Check out the prs expirience video they walk through the entire process the top is completely stained an the binding reveal is scraped not masked on top...its done right before sealing finish...
Stick around and we'll show you haw we have been doing it for a couple years
I thought this video was ten years old then I realized you just shaved and I drank too much.
I'm all smooth now!
Just paint sealer on the faux part of the binding.
You are half right
@@TexasToastGuitars Would I be totally right if both halves of the guitar was there? ;-)
Seems like it would soak through the tape to me. Guess I need to finish watching and see if that's what happens 👍
It actually worked better than I thought.
3m also sells what they call "fine line masking tape" that leaves a crisper line than the standard stuff. This is the PERFECT application for it. We used it all the time in automotive refinishing. I suspect it may actually work well enough to use. Its actually not paper so it's resistant to solvents and stuff. And they have a bunch of different kinds and widths. I believe it's also thinner, more low-profile than the paper tape so you don't get as much build up at the edge/line. Meaning it might be 0.001" off the surface vs 0.005" for the paper tape. It's not as thick.
See if this works. Any automotive paint supply place should have it locally or you can easily order it online.
www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067079/
I assure you, it isn't the tape... it's the method that doesn't work. The tape that we used was purchased from an automotive paint supplier
@@JC-11111 @JC that's one of the tapes we used. The lesson here isn't the tape we used or didn't use, its the method. I know how to tape, and what tape to use for what application. staining or dying raw wood will never work perfectly. Capillary action draws color where you don't want it. That was the point.
Round over the edge from there?!,,,,
If you like
Hey Uncle Matt!. great vid. hopefully the experts will see how shitty it looks doing it that way ☻
We'll see brotherman
So what's the right way? Real binding?
Actual binding will always have a place in my heart but the way to do the maple edge treatment is not with stain or dye
Matt, take this with a grain of salt but, my friend's wife worked in testing and R&D for over 20 years for DuPont's paint and coatings division. She said to avoid blue painter's tape and hardware store tapes in general. She claimed that the adhesives on that stuff is formulated to lock out latex/water base paints, not solvent based paints. I switched to automotive masking tape and have not had any lacquer bleed under the tape since. My local NAPA store carries a full line of it and I fix his kids guitars regularly! DISCOUNT! LOL! Keep the videos coming! They keep my brain from frying while doing the mundane repairs!
You are 100% correct.
We also use the automotive fine line tape.
What we were attempting to infer with this video is that dye can bleed under the tape if you are using it on raw wood.
@@TexasToastGuitars I'd bet the dye bleeds even worse on open grain woods like mahogany? For me, I'd rather have real binding. LOL.
Frog-tape maybe....????
No...
We will be doing a deep dive into this coming soon. We just don't have any guitars to do this video with ready right now. Anyway, it will be coming soon. Maybe in a live setting so people can ask questions.
I'm assuming the green tape is Frog tape ... even the blue painter's tape would adhere better on sealed wood...
I assure you, it isn't the tape... it's the method that doesn't work.
@@hurdygurdyguy1 blue painters tape is even worse. it doesn't go around bends, and bleeds even worse.
so are you going to show us how to do it right? I'm beginning to think that real binding is easier than faking it
Sanding sealer goes on first, then the tape. Experiment on your own materials as your mileage will vary. I prefer to spray the stain coat, so I'd clear coat before that too.
We absolutely are going to show you the way that we do it
@@TexasToastGuitars Thanks! in that video can you answer a technical question? If I'm using nitro sanding sealer to lock in my color, can I still clear coat with 2K poly? or it there a more poly-friendly sanding sealer? The Oxford stuff I use just rocks but I don't love nitro clear one bit.
You are correct. That is not how it's done. No taping, use a much dryer applicator. dont let it run down the side.
The tape is why the edge looks bad. You guys know more than me about guitar building, but you clearly do not know how to do that. Also it is always done on raw wood. No sealer. I have hard time believing that you think it is done the way you are doing it. There are hundreds of youtube videos of this being done correctly.
I promise we will make a video with full details on how to do it right. If you are dyeing woods or staining woods... I think, you are doing it wrong.
If you disagree with me that is fine. You should sign up for our guitar building contest and show everyone your guitars. Plus you could win a fat stack of cash
@@TexasToastGuitars I am not at all trying to claim to be better at finishing guitars than you. I have never succeeded at getting a finish that approaches the quality of your average, nor was I attempting to suggest that your method of spraying tinted finish to color wood is in any way inferior to any other method of coloring wood. I merely suggest that to disparage a commonly used method just because you use a different method may not be in the service of your viewers. I like you guys, and watch all your videos. This is the first subject I have ever seen you address in a manner I find questionable, and I apologize if I have offended.