Glad the video gave you some confidence to give all grain a shot Zac! That's why we started this channel! The recipe in this video used about 4.5kg of grain. Cheers.
Hi guys, tried this for the first time today and it's such a great easy method! Just one question: why aim for a 20 litre brew using "no chill" when the HDPE cubes only hold 17 litres? Should I adjust my brews from now on to be a final volume of 17-18, or do I want some extra leeway there?
Hi Shane, congratulations on your first brew in a bag! You make a good observation. The no chill cubes we sell are indeed 17 litres which is just a limitation of what we are able to source, but depending on where you live and what you have access to, you may find cubes of all sorts of different volumes. At the end of the day, you can adjust your brews to whatever final volume you prefer. 20 litres is just a good round figure to work off as a starting point. It gives you a few extra litres to play with when filling your cube (better to have too much than not enough). This also allows for a litre or so of loss due to hops and dead space in your kettle. Generally it is a good insurance policy to aim for a litre or two over what your cube can hold but if you are feeling particularly confident there is no reason you can't aim for bang on 17 litres. Everyone's system is a bit different, so after you have a few brews under your belt you can customise your final volume to whatever works best for you.
Hi quick question. I'm struggling to understand sparging. So after you've rinsed your grain bag, what do you do with that sparging water? Do you just immediately add it to the wort?
Hi Wian, you add the sparge water back to the main batch of wort. The idea of sparging is to extract a little bit more sugar out of the grains -but we suggest when starting out don't worry about sparging. It is an extra complication to worry about when doing your first batch of beer and the benefits are negligible. We only mentioned it in the video because we were asked to put it in there, so we can see how it might be confusing. Just follow the steps in the video (ignore the part about sparging) -add all your water to the pot at the beginning and after the mash, just let the bag drain and squeeze out as much liquid out as possible back into your boil pot. If you do decide to sparge, you will have to hold some of the water back at the beginning and this involves doing some water volume calculations. We have an article on our website about that here: www.grainandgrape.com.au/water-amounts You can probably see this all starts to get confusing for beginners! We hope to do separate videos explaining water calculations and sparging at some point. They are on the list!
Hi there, unfortunately we don't have a video for that but it sounds like a great topic we should film one day! You still go through the same steps for a partial mash shown in this video, only with much less grain. You top the rest of the fermentables up with dry or liquid malt extract. Hopefully you will find a video or an article out there somewhere that will guide you through it.
Great video. I have wanted to do just this. What kettle are you using? I have looked at the Digiboil for its price but not sure if 35 liters will be enough for a 5 gallon batch. Any suggestions?
Hey Richard, glad you liked the video! The kettle used in the vid is in fact a Digiboil. 35 litres is plenty fine for a 5 gallon (19 litre) batch for most beery styles. www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7URN%2035L%20DIGIBOIL--urn-digiboil-35-litre The only challenge is making beers that require a lot of grain (like barley wines or big IIIPA's). But there are workarounds for that. There is a 65 litre Digiboil too if you need more flexibility. www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7URN%2065L%20DIGIBOIL--urn-digiboil-65-litre
Quick question guys during the mash out would u do 10 mins from when the temp hits the mash out desired temp or does 10 mins include the time to heat to the desired temp? Thanks Ang great video I'm currently did building a system based on an urn after watching your video. Thanks again jake
Hi Jake, start the timer when you hit the mash-out temp (don't include the time it takes to heat). Glad to hear that we inspired you to build your own rig!
in UK essential to use half a campden tablet per 30 litres, and if your water alkalinity is over 30 you need to lower it to 30 by adding CRS (acid) - for dark beers ignore this....
Hey there Jerod. This question gets asked a lot and for good reason. It would make things even easier wouldn't it! But in short, we don't recommend you use your fermenter to no chill. For no chill to work properly, you really need an airtight container. Most fermenters are not airtight (unless you are using a plastic unit-tank like this: www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/RVNYMJYE-fermenters/7FERMENTASAURUS%20SNUB%20NOSE--fermentasaurus-35-litre-snub-nose) ..but they are not designed to hold boiling liquids). As the wort cools in your fermenter, it contracts and will draw in air from the outside. This has the potential to oxidise the wort and introduce contaminants. Plus, fermenters have more parts where bacteria can hide (around the seals, threads and in the tap). This usually doesn't present a huge problem in normal fermentation, but can become a big problem if small amounts of bacteria are exposed to warm wort for extended periods (say overnight). Also as mentioned earlier, the plastic in your fermenter may not be rated to hold boiling liquids. It's best not to risk it. Find yourself a proper cube if you can. If your local homebrew shop doesn't stock any, you can usually find them at camping stores. Hope that helps!
Hello, I noticed you mentioned that when you were at 10 minutes left in the boil, you added your yeast nutrient. I've read online that will kill the yeast nutrient. Please clarify at what point you add the yeast.
Hi Robert. _yeast_ and _yeast nutrient_ are two different things. Yeast: https: //www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/WBQWJYLB-liquid-yeasts-and-nutrients Yeast Nutrient: www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/8YEAST%20NUTWY1.5B--yeast-nutrient-beer-wyeast-1-5oz Yes, adding yeast to the boil will kill it. So don't do that. Yeast nutrient however, is not yeast. It is a blend of nutrients that you add to the boil at about 10 minutes left (but note the timing is not critical). It can help give the _yeast_ a kick start at the beginning of fermentation. So in summary: Add _yeast nutrient_ to the boil. Add _yeast_ to the wort in the fermenter, at pitch temperature. Hope that helps. Happy brewing.
@@pananef Hi there, excellent question but unfortunately the answer isn’t straight forward! Truth is, with BIAB there is no right amount when it comes to liquor (water) to grist (grain) ratio’s that we can give you. It depends on your recipe and the size of your kettle (pot or urn). For the recipe we use in the video, it has about 4.5kg of grain with 27 litres of water. All of that water was added at the beginning, which gives you a water/grain ratio of about 6 litres/per kilo of grain. Hopefully that gives you a ballpark idea, but don’t use it as a rule. You could also review this section again, it might help. ruclips.net/video/SHV0k0pdtgc/видео.html With the no sparge method your water/grain ratio will always be higher than what is considered "normal". Anywhere from 5-7 litres/per kilo is common. This is providing your kettle is big enough to hold all of your grain and all of your water at once. So start with the biggest size kettle you can manage and life will be a lot easier for you. One starting at 40 litres or more will give you the most flexibility. Does that help answer your question?
He seemed to keep the heat on as later he turns it up a bit more, I was wondering about that myself, but I have seen with electric boilers with a thermostat you can do this, particularly I think if you have a filter plate at the bottom. Here is a video of a guy doing a step mash where he leaves the heat on and then steps it up as required so it certainly wont do any harm ruclips.net/video/SMuw3f7MGbg/видео.html
Hi Nick, sorry for the late reply but I wanted to ask Ben directly as he has a lot of experience using urns. Here is what he said: "I generally turn it down just to the point where the element clicks off. That way regardless of what the dial is saying it is it is set to click on if it drops too much below mashing temp, and if you’re around you can hear it come on and get in to stir it whilst it heats. If they have a digiboil, it is a digital temp read out anyway so just leave it at the mash temp. You just don’t want it blasting past your desired temperature. And if the element is on I am generally on my thermometer as well so I can switch it back down if needed." So in summary, the dial thermostats on some urns are good as a rough guide but they tend not to be very accurate. If you are not careful they can actually creep up past your desired mash temp. So turn the dial down just bellow your mash temp and always use a thermometer for measurement. Stay vigilant, you can't really walk away and leave the urn to do its thing -not until you gain some confidence with your system. Digital thermostats may be more accurate, but once again always rely on a thermometer, not the readout on the thermostat. Hope that helps!
Cor blummin eck does every guy in Australia brew beer??! Nice vid. Also nice peacock impersonations from background guy Edit: actually that's a really good vid,nice to keep it simple cheers!
Bloody oath mate! (That's Australian for, "Yes you are correct my friend"). I'll pass on to Matt that you approve of his birdcall skills (although I think he was going for more of a Macaw type thing). Thanks for your positive comments. We always appreciate it!
Hi I have a question for you. I'm following a recipe for a honey blonde ale, and the recipe says to add the honey towards the end of fermentation (to keep the flavour) but how would you get an accurate reading for abv for this?
Hey Beserker, one way you could do it is to take a hydrometer sample at the beginning of fermentation. Let's say it is 1.50 as an example. Then take another hydrometer sample before you add the honey towards the end of fermentation. Let's say it is 1.10. Add honey -take another hydrometer sample, lets say it goes back up to 1.017 after honey. Add that extra 7 points to your starting gravity (which now becomes 1.057). Plug that into an ABV calculator along with your final gravity and it should give you a result. That method is a little cumbersome but it works. Unfortunately not all recipes on the internet are detailed or well written. A good recipe should have the estimated ABV listed. This could be an opportunity for you to dip your toe into recipe design software which will allow you to accurately predict ABV depending on the ingredients. From there you can even get into the world of designing your own recipes which opens up a whole other world in the hobby. www.brewersfriend.com has one, or there are paid options like Beersmith or Beertools just to name a few.
Is it particularly important that the pot is twice the size of the post-boil volume? Is this in case of boil over? I have been brewing extract 22L batches and had been eyeing off some 35L kettles but not sure if they'll be big enough now for making the move to BIAB. Thanks
Hi Ryan, yes boil overs are part of the reason for using a large pot, but not the only reason. For instance during the mash, you have grain -which absorbs water and swells up. This increases the volume in the pot and you could risk overflowing the kettle if it is too small. But there are always work arounds to any problem. A 35 litre kettle is cutting it close but should work fine. If you find doing the "full volume no sparge" method is filling the kettle too much, you might need to avoid a full volume mash, and add a sparge step instead.
@@grain_and_grape Hi guys. I am facing the same dilemma that Ryan Dalby. I am about to brew for a final 23L of beer. (5kg of malt) and have a kettle of 35L. I would. like to brew it in the bag with no sparge but I will certainly overflow with kettle. What do you mean by "adding a step sparge"? Many thanks!
Hi David, it all depends on the recipe. A 20 litre pot should be able to handle a grain bill up to 3kg thereabouts, so if the halved recipe uses less than that amount of grain you should be fine. If you are a beginner, stick to beers around the 5% abv mark and a 10 litre final gravity -you shouldn't run in to trouble with your 20 litre pot. Once you get the hang of the basics, you can start looking at other techniques to get the most out of your pot. Understanding how to do proper water calculations can help you work out if your pot can handle a particular recipe -but that is starting to get a bit too complex to explain in this comments section. Hopefully we will cover all that in a video one day!
Grain and Grape Melbourne ok. Cool. You should do a video on this. It’s a cheap and affordable way to get into brewing and I think many people will appreciate it
@@davidm6395 Absolutely! We definitely hope to make more videos covering the ins and outs of brew in a bag to help brewers learn the process. Another option that just came to mind for you could be using the "partial mash" technique. The steps are more or less the same as shown in our BIAB video, with the addition of some dry (or liquid) malt extract. It allows you to use less grain (and therefore a smaller pot) and will also allow you to make stronger beers if that is your wish. Just google "partial mash technique" and see if it is something that might suit your needs.
Hi there, the white tablet is Irish Moss (sometimes sold as Whirlflock, which is a brand name). It helps to clarify the wort at the end of the boil. You can read more about it here: www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/take-the-luck-out-of-clear-beer-with-irish-moss/
Want to know more about the No Chill Method featured in this video? We take a deep dive in our new video here: ruclips.net/video/HODvdjMcjlA/видео.html
As explained in the video, the idea that squeezing the bag causes tannin extraction or other undesirables to enter your wort is a complete myth Roberto. So squeeze away!
IPA's are certainly achievable with the no chill method, they just require a different approach. We have made many with great success. But don't take our word for it. We suggest brewers experiment and see what works for them. Never say never!
Clearest video about home brewing in a long time. Thanks for that guys!
Our pleasure!
This video is awesome! also the perfect amount of humour HA! I am moving to fresh grain/brewing in a bag now so this has really helped me THANK YOU
That's what we like to hear Rohan! Glad we could help!
Yo this is an excellent intro video I've been reading and watching for hours today and this is the one that made it all click
We are very proud to hear that David. Thanks! And welcome to the mad world of brewing
thanks for this
What a chuckle. Well done on a professional, entertaining & informative video. You're a natural & humourous presenter/communicator Ben! 5 stars
Au contraire, 5 stars for you Steve!
Really great video! All the info you need, minus the extra technical stuff that scares new people, and with a bit of humour. Very nice :)
Thanks Ryan, we appreciate the kind words!
Great chilled out video
Best video i have seen for this, great work
Thanks John, we do our best!
fantastic intro for new brewers! great work Ben and crew!
Thanks Stass!
Super easy process. Never considered the overnight chill method. Thanks for the tips! 👍🏼
Great to hear!
Great video! I’m starting my first all grain recipe today
Awesome! We hope it went well!
@@grain_and_grape It did thank you!
Complete novice to brewing beer but this has filled me with confidence. Only question, how much grain did you use for 20L?
Glad the video gave you some confidence to give all grain a shot Zac! That's why we started this channel! The recipe in this video used about 4.5kg of grain. Cheers.
what is the brand name of the heat gloves that you use
Goddam I wish I knew these resources existed 4 years ago.
Great video and info.I aged a no chill cube for two years without any problem,
Cheers and subbed too.
hahaha Awesome vid Ben. Love it, cheers mate!
Appreciate the kind words Gash!
Hi guys, tried this for the first time today and it's such a great easy method! Just one question: why aim for a 20 litre brew using "no chill" when the HDPE cubes only hold 17 litres? Should I adjust my brews from now on to be a final volume of 17-18, or do I want some extra leeway there?
Hi Shane, congratulations on your first brew in a bag!
You make a good observation. The no chill cubes we sell are indeed 17 litres which is just a limitation of what we are able to source, but depending on where you live and what you have access to, you may find cubes of all sorts of different volumes.
At the end of the day, you can adjust your brews to whatever final volume you prefer. 20 litres is just a good round figure to work off as a starting point. It gives you a few extra litres to play with when filling your cube (better to have too much than not enough). This also allows for a litre or so of loss due to hops and dead space in your kettle. Generally it is a good insurance policy to aim for a litre or two over what your cube can hold but if you are feeling particularly confident there is no reason you can't aim for bang on 17 litres.
Everyone's system is a bit different, so after you have a few brews under your belt you can customise your final volume to whatever works best for you.
Hi quick question. I'm struggling to understand sparging. So after you've rinsed your grain bag, what do you do with that sparging water? Do you just immediately add it to the wort?
Hi Wian, you add the sparge water back to the main batch of wort. The idea of sparging is to extract a little bit more sugar out of the grains -but we suggest when starting out don't worry about sparging. It is an extra complication to worry about when doing your first batch of beer and the benefits are negligible. We only mentioned it in the video because we were asked to put it in there, so we can see how it might be confusing.
Just follow the steps in the video (ignore the part about sparging) -add all your water to the pot at the beginning and after the mash, just let the bag drain and squeeze out as much liquid out as possible back into your boil pot.
If you do decide to sparge, you will have to hold some of the water back at the beginning and this involves doing some water volume calculations. We have an article on our website about that here:
www.grainandgrape.com.au/water-amounts
You can probably see this all starts to get confusing for beginners! We hope to do separate videos explaining water calculations and sparging at some point. They are on the list!
Do you have any video showing the partial mesh tecnique?
Hi there, unfortunately we don't have a video for that but it sounds like a great topic we should film one day!
You still go through the same steps for a partial mash shown in this video, only with much less grain. You top the rest of the fermentables up with dry or liquid malt extract. Hopefully you will find a video or an article out there somewhere that will guide you through it.
Great video. I have wanted to do just this. What kettle are you using? I have looked at the Digiboil for its price but not sure if 35 liters will be enough for a 5 gallon batch. Any suggestions?
Hey Richard, glad you liked the video! The kettle used in the vid is in fact a Digiboil. 35 litres is plenty fine for a 5 gallon (19 litre) batch for most beery styles.
www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7URN%2035L%20DIGIBOIL--urn-digiboil-35-litre
The only challenge is making beers that require a lot of grain (like barley wines or big IIIPA's). But there are workarounds for that.
There is a 65 litre Digiboil too if you need more flexibility.
www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/7URN%2065L%20DIGIBOIL--urn-digiboil-65-litre
@@grain_and_grape Thank you for the response. Keep up the great work!
Quick question guys during the mash out would u do 10 mins from when the temp hits the mash out desired temp or does 10 mins include the time to heat to the desired temp? Thanks Ang great video I'm currently did building a system based on an urn after watching your video. Thanks again jake
Hi Jake, start the timer when you hit the mash-out temp (don't include the time it takes to heat). Glad to hear that we inspired you to build your own rig!
in UK essential to use half a campden tablet per 30 litres, and if your water alkalinity is over 30 you need to lower it to 30 by adding CRS (acid) - for dark beers ignore this....
Could one just "no chill" in their bucket fermenter and not have to transfer? Hence just skipping the step entirely.
Hey there Jerod. This question gets asked a lot and for good reason. It would make things even easier wouldn't it!
But in short, we don't recommend you use your fermenter to no chill. For no chill to work properly, you really need an airtight container. Most fermenters are not airtight (unless you are using a plastic unit-tank like this: www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/RVNYMJYE-fermenters/7FERMENTASAURUS%20SNUB%20NOSE--fermentasaurus-35-litre-snub-nose) ..but they are not designed to hold boiling liquids).
As the wort cools in your fermenter, it contracts and will draw in air from the outside. This has the potential to oxidise the wort and introduce contaminants. Plus, fermenters have more parts where bacteria can hide (around the seals, threads and in the tap). This usually doesn't present a huge problem in normal fermentation, but can become a big problem if small amounts of bacteria are exposed to warm wort for extended periods (say overnight).
Also as mentioned earlier, the plastic in your fermenter may not be rated to hold boiling liquids.
It's best not to risk it. Find yourself a proper cube if you can. If your local homebrew shop doesn't stock any, you can usually find them at camping stores.
Hope that helps!
@@grain_and_grape Wow! Thanks for the response! Was helpful
Do you add adjuncts at the same time as you add the barley?
Hi Hammond, adjuncts like light malt extract or other types of sugar simply go into the boil (not the mash/barley).
Hello, I noticed you mentioned that when you were at 10 minutes left in the boil, you added your yeast nutrient. I've read online that will kill the yeast nutrient. Please clarify at what point you add the yeast.
Hi Robert. _yeast_ and _yeast nutrient_ are two different things.
Yeast: https: //www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/WBQWJYLB-liquid-yeasts-and-nutrients
Yeast Nutrient: www.grainandgrape.com.au/products/category/search/8YEAST%20NUTWY1.5B--yeast-nutrient-beer-wyeast-1-5oz
Yes, adding yeast to the boil will kill it. So don't do that.
Yeast nutrient however, is not yeast. It is a blend of nutrients that you add to the boil at about 10 minutes left (but note the timing is not critical). It can help give the _yeast_ a kick start at the beginning of fermentation.
So in summary: Add _yeast nutrient_ to the boil. Add _yeast_ to the wort in the fermenter, at pitch temperature.
Hope that helps. Happy brewing.
@@grain_and_grape Thank you!
Great video!What is the right amount of grain/water approximately?
Without sparge method!
@@pananef Hi there, excellent question but unfortunately the answer isn’t straight forward!
Truth is, with BIAB there is no right amount when it comes to liquor (water) to grist (grain) ratio’s that we can give you. It depends on your recipe and the size of your kettle (pot or urn).
For the recipe we use in the video, it has about 4.5kg of grain with 27 litres of water. All of that water was added at the beginning, which gives you a water/grain ratio of about 6 litres/per kilo of grain. Hopefully that gives you a ballpark idea, but don’t use it as a rule.
You could also review this section again, it might help.
ruclips.net/video/SHV0k0pdtgc/видео.html
With the no sparge method your water/grain ratio will always be higher than what is considered "normal". Anywhere from 5-7 litres/per kilo is common.
This is providing your kettle is big enough to hold all of your grain and all of your water at once.
So start with the biggest size kettle you can manage and life will be a lot easier for you. One starting at 40 litres or more will give you the most flexibility.
Does that help answer your question?
@@grain_and_grape Yesss ,thank you so much for the quick reply!
@@pananef No worries. Happy brewing!
Hi, did you “turn the heat down” to zero when you achieved your strike temperature? Or do you leave the dial on 67D as you mash? Thanks.
He seemed to keep the heat on as later he turns it up a bit more, I was wondering about that myself, but I have seen with electric boilers with a thermostat you can do this, particularly I think if you have a filter plate at the bottom. Here is a video of a guy doing a step mash where he leaves the heat on and then steps it up as required so it certainly wont do any harm ruclips.net/video/SMuw3f7MGbg/видео.html
Steve Tucker Thanks champ!
Hi Nick, sorry for the late reply but I wanted to ask Ben directly as he has a lot of experience using urns. Here is what he said:
"I generally turn it down just to the point where the element clicks off. That way regardless of what the dial is saying it is it is set to click on if it drops too much below mashing temp, and if you’re around you can hear it come on and get in to stir it whilst it heats. If they have a digiboil, it is a digital temp read out anyway so just leave it at the mash temp. You just don’t want it blasting past your desired temperature. And if the element is on I am generally on my thermometer as well so I can switch it back down if needed."
So in summary, the dial thermostats on some urns are good as a rough guide but they tend not to be very accurate. If you are not careful they can actually creep up past your desired mash temp. So turn the dial down just bellow your mash temp and always use a thermometer for measurement. Stay vigilant, you can't really walk away and leave the urn to do its thing -not until you gain some confidence with your system. Digital thermostats may be more accurate, but once again always rely on a thermometer, not the readout on the thermostat.
Hope that helps!
@@grain_and_grape That's great. Thanks for such a detailed explanation. Appreciate it.
@@grain_and_grape Thanks
Cor blummin eck does every guy in Australia brew beer??! Nice vid. Also nice peacock impersonations from background guy
Edit: actually that's a really good vid,nice to keep it simple cheers!
Bloody oath mate! (That's Australian for, "Yes you are correct my friend"). I'll pass on to Matt that you approve of his birdcall skills (although I think he was going for more of a Macaw type thing).
Thanks for your positive comments. We always appreciate it!
Hi I have a question for you. I'm following a recipe for a honey blonde ale, and the recipe says to add the honey towards the end of fermentation (to keep the flavour) but how would you get an accurate reading for abv for this?
Hey Beserker, one way you could do it is to take a hydrometer sample at the beginning of fermentation. Let's say it is 1.50 as an example. Then take another hydrometer sample before you add the honey towards the end of fermentation. Let's say it is 1.10. Add honey -take another hydrometer sample, lets say it goes back up to 1.017 after honey. Add that extra 7 points to your starting gravity (which now becomes 1.057). Plug that into an ABV calculator along with your final gravity and it should give you a result.
That method is a little cumbersome but it works. Unfortunately not all recipes on the internet are detailed or well written. A good recipe should have the estimated ABV listed. This could be an opportunity for you to dip your toe into recipe design software which will allow you to accurately predict ABV depending on the ingredients. From there you can even get into the world of designing your own recipes which opens up a whole other world in the hobby.
www.brewersfriend.com has one, or there are paid options like Beersmith or Beertools just to name a few.
Is it particularly important that the pot is twice the size of the post-boil volume? Is this in case of boil over? I have been brewing extract 22L batches and had been eyeing off some 35L kettles but not sure if they'll be big enough now for making the move to BIAB. Thanks
Hi Ryan, yes boil overs are part of the reason for using a large pot, but not the only reason.
For instance during the mash, you have grain -which absorbs water and swells up. This increases the volume in the pot and you could risk overflowing the kettle if it is too small. But there are always work arounds to any problem.
A 35 litre kettle is cutting it close but should work fine. If you find doing the "full volume no sparge" method is filling the kettle too much, you might need to avoid a full volume mash, and add a sparge step instead.
@@grain_and_grape Hi guys. I am facing the same dilemma that Ryan Dalby. I am about to brew for a final 23L of beer. (5kg of malt) and have a kettle of 35L. I would. like to brew it in the bag with no sparge but I will certainly overflow with kettle. What do you mean by "adding a step sparge"? Many thanks!
No need for an answer guys. I found the answers to my questions. Cheers and thanks for all your input to the world of home brewers!
Did anyone realize the changes in hair color, Ben made througout the video? xD
Hehe. A little easter egg for the trainspotters. 😉
Is it ok to half the recipe if I’m doing it in a 20 pot on the stove? Or do you have a better suggestion?
Hi David, it all depends on the recipe. A 20 litre pot should be able to handle a grain bill up to 3kg thereabouts, so if the halved recipe uses less than that amount of grain you should be fine.
If you are a beginner, stick to beers around the 5% abv mark and a 10 litre final gravity -you shouldn't run in to trouble with your 20 litre pot.
Once you get the hang of the basics, you can start looking at other techniques to get the most out of your pot.
Understanding how to do proper water calculations can help you work out if your pot can handle a particular recipe -but that is starting to get a bit too complex to explain in this comments section. Hopefully we will cover all that in a video one day!
Grain and Grape Melbourne ok. Cool. You should do a video on this. It’s a cheap and affordable way to get into brewing and I think many people will appreciate it
@@davidm6395 Absolutely! We definitely hope to make more videos covering the ins and outs of brew in a bag to help brewers learn the process.
Another option that just came to mind for you could be using the "partial mash" technique. The steps are more or less the same as shown in our BIAB video, with the addition of some dry (or liquid) malt extract.
It allows you to use less grain (and therefore a smaller pot) and will also allow you to make stronger beers if that is your wish.
Just google "partial mash technique" and see if it is something that might suit your needs.
What is white tablet
Hi there, the white tablet is Irish Moss (sometimes sold as Whirlflock, which is a brand name). It helps to clarify the wort at the end of the boil.
You can read more about it here:
www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/take-the-luck-out-of-clear-beer-with-irish-moss/
Beeh?
😂 We do talk funny don't we! This may help Ratchet. lingojam.com/EnglishtoAustralian
2:49 Water Calculations. Where's the purple hair!!!
Some movie magic perhaps? 🤷♂️ The VFX artists forgot to paint in Ben's hair for that shot 😬
Want to know more about the No Chill Method featured in this video? We take a deep dive in our new video here: ruclips.net/video/HODvdjMcjlA/видео.html
Wait... did you just squeeze the bag?🤦🏻♂️
As explained in the video, the idea that squeezing the bag causes tannin extraction or other undesirables to enter your wort is a complete myth Roberto. So squeeze away!
Hoppy beers (IPA's) should never be done with the "no chill method". Taste will be way off....
IPA's are certainly achievable with the no chill method, they just require a different approach. We have made many with great success.
But don't take our word for it. We suggest brewers experiment and see what works for them. Never say never!