Glad I found this video. Just got a new 2500HD a few weeks ago and checked mine today - it was low and took a little over half a quart to get it up to 1/2" below the fill hole. Thanks for posting this.
No problem! I'm glad I was able to help. Be sure to grease the front end too. These trucks are known to be pretty dry from the factory. Mine had developed a clunk around 1400 miles because there was no grease in the joints
@@adventureandrepeat I already did my first oil change at 600 miles and I'll soon be doing the next one at 2000 miles, then I will go to a standard 5000 mile interval. On any new truck, I like to change the oil at least twice during the first 5000 miles of driving. I plan to lube the front end and check the front diff oil level when I do the 2000 mile oil change.
I'm with you on service schedules. Book says no break in change required and it's good for 7500. That's a lot of miles for engine oil, especially on break in.
@@adventureandrepeattalked to dealer and ask if they checked it? Told me don’t worry about it because I have a warranty! 🙄 I tow trailers all the time. 10k 3x a week.
I'm sure for most it will fail just outside of warranty. While they are traveling. A long way from home. But I get it, I work for a dealership. GM doesn't pay any extra for a dealership to look and try to find problems to prevent it from happening. A pre delivery inspection I'm guessing is glossed over. As long as there're no dents or scratches and the radio works they let the buyer find the other issues. Dealership has to eat any of the costs of a proper PDI. Which means they are losing money.
I just checked the fluid level in my 2024 2500 ZR2. Sure enough, I had to add a quart of rear diff fluid to my brand new truck.. Called Chevy to check the fluid type for the ZR2, and he gave me the correct weight etc. He told me that when the strike happened, many of the people working did not pay attention to what they were doing. Thank you for uploading this video. Did you check the front diff level???
Thats crazy that it comes from the manufacturer this way. I'll be checking mine this weekend. Thank you for the information. Did you check the front differential?
@@adventureandrepeatTY! @ this rate, there's not a single fluid level I wouldn't check? Clearly their delivery inspector (if your dealer even has one...) isn't doing their job....? Would repairs be under warranty (if, IF it fails within the warranty period..) but moreso the "down time"/demarriage? Not everyone wants/can be without their vehicle for 2-6 weeks? But, suit yourself...😁👍👍👍
@@patrickjordan2233 yea. Going to work my way thru checking everything. I can't afford the downtime. That was the whole reason to buy new, to avoid it haha
I’ve got 10k on mine … I’d estimate only 2000 miles while towing … when would you recommend changing the diff fluid out? I’ve heard everything from every 7k miles to every 60k miles
I've got a service schedule video coming out very soon talking about when GM calls for service on the truck and what I recommend. GM doesn't specifically call out any certain schedule with these trucks. But I always service mine at 75k. The second service at 150k is where I make sure to check bearings and preload to make sure everything is working as it should
Up to you? But I'd send this link to your sale's person/dealership...they need to be aware their delivery inspection personnel aren't doing their job...? That depth was going to greatly shorten the life of the dif/wheel bearings... Thanks for the PSA 😁👍👍
Yea I wonder that too. But I also know with full floating hubs it's hard to get them filled when assembling the ends. Maybe fluid ended up filling them in making the main case low. The differential is large, but it has an equally large ring and pinion taking up space inside it so a full quart seems about right
@@adventureandrepeat While true, they have special metering equipment at the factories for a lot of fluids, I suspect the axles are filled before they hit the vehicle assembly line but even if they were filled at time of truck assembly, the equipment would automatically expel a certain volume. I don't believe its a manual operation anymore, of course it always would have been until the fancy filling equipment came on the scene. But here's another item, who is doing a proper PDI at the dealership level to ensure no factory mistakes were made, if that was being done properly there would not be owner after owner finding out their fluid levels were low and yet no leaks. But your right about filling a rear differential that has full floating hubs, typically highway tractors as an example for some years now have a fill port in the hub to circumvent a disaster by being able to fill them and any excess just drains off into the diff. However with no fill port then the diff has to be filled, then jack one wheel end up at least 6" I think is the spec to allow the oil to fill the hub ... repeat for the other side, then once the axle is level refill to the bottom of the fill plug on the pumpkin.
@@charlesb4267 your right. At this point they are meter filled when manufacturing takes place. Fill specs were set by people. Could be an honest mistake. But it's a great way to save some money too! As far as dealership pdi, I doubt any do anything more than make sure the check engine light is not on and the radio works. They didn't even touch up the scratches in the frame that I specifically requested to be fixed before I picked it up
@@adventureandrepeat Sadly it seems more the norm than the exception these days to get that sale of the vehicle done, get you to sign on the dotted line and then send the buyer out the door and they may as well yell out "don't let the door hit you in the butt on the way out". And as to doing a PDI, not that I have been around a dealership or have heard what they do or don't do but I can see where they know that is NOT where the money is going to get made by paying an employee to do that when they could be raking it in with that same employee on repairs in the shop after the warranty is off, sell parts that are not required and charge plenty. I am curious as to what they would even use to cover up scratches in that blackened wax coating, do you know if such a product is sold in a can that has the sort of curable wax but with a coloring agent to make it blend in nice. Of course with any color of vehicle other than black it would have to be covered off under the body so as not to get over spray. Sadly up here it doesn't take long and the frames, diffs and so on all look like crap and starting to flake chucks of rusted metal off. I wish there was a good answer to the rust issue for those that have to deal with the crap they spread on the roads.
@@charlesb4267 I do pdis for high end motor homes. Our salesman pay for the pdi out of their commission. A lot of other dealerships will not do one and just see if the customer notices and just bring it back. Then warranty pays for it, and if the tech doesn't make rate then they eat the difference not the salesman. We do it right to try and keep a good name. But as for the frame, I'm sure they have to have access to something. Body shop has to be able to repair it back to factory spec. I thought about just recovering the frame with an undercoat, but I'm not sure if it's oil based and if a new undercoat on it will react poorly and make it worse
Yes I saw that there wasn't an option listed. Very interesting. Historically it's been the same 75w90 that is always used for gears. I do wonder if it wasn't listed on accident or on purpose
@@owen33333 yea. I was pretty disappointed to see the lack of maintenance information in the manual. Plenty of how to use the radio tho! Ya know, the important stuff
I've seen the type of genuine GM Delco oil listed for the front diff only for the HD trucks ( rock auto is where I saw that ) and its a 75W85 gear oil but they refer to it as a "high efficiency" oil. Yet it also lists a full synthetic Valvoline that is suitable for both front and rear diffs and that is a 75W90. Then looking at the half tons, they list that same 75W85 part number for both front AND rear diffs but again Valvoline 75W90 full synthetic for both diffs is fine as well. My gut tells me they are factory filling the thinner oil for a fuel mileage gain ... the theme of thin engine oil for the 1/2 ton etc but not allowing it for the high tow rated HD trucks in the rear diff. Obviously its the rear diff that takes the brunt of the work load throughout most trucks life and if four wheel drive is used on a highway pulling something, its going to be winter roads so therefore cooler or or off road at slower speeds. Now I could be misguided in my thinking but that is what I sense is going on and I doubt its a bad thing to be using the thinner oil in the front diff as its mostly just going along for the ride with no load and just has to have its internals lubed due to the cv shafts turning the internals. Certainly up here in Canada with the cold winters I can see it would benefit just that little bit to run the Delco oil in the front diff ( or an equivalent if such exists )
@@charlesb4267 I would agree. Thinner hot oil temp would help with fuel economy. But as far as cold temps, the 75 winter rating means they would all be the same viscosity at your freezing temps I would be curious is the lower viscosity warm temp was meant to help reduce cavitation. But even just switching oil brand can simply reduce cavitation as well
Your right. It is not required. But I like to check so I can document and monitor levels over time. And if I ever have to warranty it I can give a specific measurement
@@sjupicudacuda898 I have not heard anything about the half tons having the problem. But it may not be a bad idea just to check it anyway. You made an investment in the truck, 5 minutes just to check and verify it will help keep your investment in good condition.
Good to know!
Your welcome!
Glad I found this video. Just got a new 2500HD a few weeks ago and checked mine today - it was low and took a little over half a quart to get it up to 1/2" below the fill hole. Thanks for posting this.
No problem! I'm glad I was able to help. Be sure to grease the front end too. These trucks are known to be pretty dry from the factory. Mine had developed a clunk around 1400 miles because there was no grease in the joints
@@adventureandrepeat I already did my first oil change at 600 miles and I'll soon be doing the next one at 2000 miles, then I will go to a standard 5000 mile interval. On any new truck, I like to change the oil at least twice during the first 5000 miles of driving. I plan to lube the front end and check the front diff oil level when I do the 2000 mile oil change.
I'm with you on service schedules. Book says no break in change required and it's good for 7500. That's a lot of miles for engine oil, especially on break in.
UAW at its finest! Got their raise but still doing 😂crappy work!
Look at the bright side, gives us something to do with our spare time! Haha
@@adventureandrepeattalked to dealer and ask if they checked it? Told me don’t worry about it because I have a warranty! 🙄 I tow trailers all the time. 10k 3x a week.
I'm sure for most it will fail just outside of warranty. While they are traveling. A long way from home. But I get it, I work for a dealership. GM doesn't pay any extra for a dealership to look and try to find problems to prevent it from happening. A pre delivery inspection I'm guessing is glossed over. As long as there're no dents or scratches and the radio works they let the buyer find the other issues. Dealership has to eat any of the costs of a proper PDI. Which means they are losing money.
Yep, mine was low. Thanks for the video👍
No problem 👍
I just checked the fluid level in my 2024 2500 ZR2. Sure enough, I had to add a quart of rear diff fluid to my brand new truck.. Called Chevy to check the fluid type for the ZR2, and he gave me the correct weight etc. He told me that when the strike happened, many of the people working did not pay attention to what they were doing. Thank you for uploading this video. Did you check the front diff level???
Yes my front diff was also low. Not by much. Only half inch below the plug hole
@@adventureandrepeat Thanks for the update...
No problem!
Thats crazy that it comes from the manufacturer this way. I'll be checking mine this weekend. Thank you for the information. Did you check the front differential?
It's on the list of things to do very soon. But I have not checked it yet
@@adventureandrepeatTY! @ this rate, there's not a single fluid level I wouldn't check? Clearly their delivery inspector (if your dealer even has one...) isn't doing their job....? Would repairs be under warranty (if, IF it fails within the warranty period..) but moreso the "down time"/demarriage? Not everyone wants/can be without their vehicle for 2-6 weeks? But, suit yourself...😁👍👍👍
@@patrickjordan2233 yea. Going to work my way thru checking everything. I can't afford the downtime. That was the whole reason to buy new, to avoid it haha
Great idea!
Thanks!
great info!
Glad it was helpful!
Good to know, thanks for the video.
Your welcome!
Have u checked transfer case and front differential on fluids mine was low on rear just over a quart
I have not yet but it's on my list of things to do
Wow, 1st I've heard about diff being an issue on 24's.
It's not talked about much. But had heard rumors about it so I wanted to check for myself
I’ve got 10k on mine … I’d estimate only 2000 miles while towing … when would you recommend changing the diff fluid out? I’ve heard everything from every 7k miles to every 60k miles
I've got a service schedule video coming out very soon talking about when GM calls for service on the truck and what I recommend. GM doesn't specifically call out any certain schedule with these trucks. But I always service mine at 75k. The second service at 150k is where I make sure to check bearings and preload to make sure everything is working as it should
Did you check your front one yet?
It is on the list of things to do very soon. But I have not checked it yet
Up to you? But I'd send this link to your sale's person/dealership...they need to be aware their delivery inspection personnel aren't doing their job...? That depth was going to greatly shorten the life of the dif/wheel bearings...
Thanks for the PSA 😁👍👍
I think that's an excellent idea! I'm hoping other owners out there are able to find this video and help them out as well
Diff fluid check is not part of the PDI anymore
Diesel gas different rear axles. from 20+yr journeryman skill tradesman last 10yrs in plant that makes these axles every day.
What makes them different? To my knowledge both are 11.5 with 3.73s. So I can show what the differences are
Different gear ratio. That’s about it
That is a little surprising, adding one quart to bring it up to level, then again if they can save a quart of oil on every vehicle at the factory ....
Yea I wonder that too. But I also know with full floating hubs it's hard to get them filled when assembling the ends. Maybe fluid ended up filling them in making the main case low. The differential is large, but it has an equally large ring and pinion taking up space inside it so a full quart seems about right
@@adventureandrepeat While true, they have special metering equipment at the factories for a lot of fluids, I suspect the axles are filled before they hit the vehicle assembly line but even if they were filled at time of truck assembly, the equipment would automatically expel a certain volume. I don't believe its a manual operation anymore, of course it always would have been until the fancy filling equipment came on the scene. But here's another item, who is doing a proper PDI at the dealership level to ensure no factory mistakes were made, if that was being done properly there would not be owner after owner finding out their fluid levels were low and yet no leaks. But your right about filling a rear differential that has full floating hubs, typically highway tractors as an example for some years now have a fill port in the hub to circumvent a disaster by being able to fill them and any excess just drains off into the diff. However with no fill port then the diff has to be filled, then jack one wheel end up at least 6" I think is the spec to allow the oil to fill the hub ... repeat for the other side, then once the axle is level refill to the bottom of the fill plug on the pumpkin.
@@charlesb4267 your right. At this point they are meter filled when manufacturing takes place. Fill specs were set by people. Could be an honest mistake. But it's a great way to save some money too! As far as dealership pdi, I doubt any do anything more than make sure the check engine light is not on and the radio works. They didn't even touch up the scratches in the frame that I specifically requested to be fixed before I picked it up
@@adventureandrepeat Sadly it seems more the norm than the exception these days to get that sale of the vehicle done, get you to sign on the dotted line and then send the buyer out the door and they may as well yell out "don't let the door hit you in the butt on the way out". And as to doing a PDI, not that I have been around a dealership or have heard what they do or don't do but I can see where they know that is NOT where the money is going to get made by paying an employee to do that when they could be raking it in with that same employee on repairs in the shop after the warranty is off, sell parts that are not required and charge plenty.
I am curious as to what they would even use to cover up scratches in that blackened wax coating, do you know if such a product is sold in a can that has the sort of curable wax but with a coloring agent to make it blend in nice. Of course with any color of vehicle other than black it would have to be covered off under the body so as not to get over spray. Sadly up here it doesn't take long and the frames, diffs and so on all look like crap and starting to flake chucks of rusted metal off. I wish there was a good answer to the rust issue for those that have to deal with the crap they spread on the roads.
@@charlesb4267 I do pdis for high end motor homes. Our salesman pay for the pdi out of their commission. A lot of other dealerships will not do one and just see if the customer notices and just bring it back. Then warranty pays for it, and if the tech doesn't make rate then they eat the difference not the salesman. We do it right to try and keep a good name.
But as for the frame, I'm sure they have to have access to something. Body shop has to be able to repair it back to factory spec. I thought about just recovering the frame with an undercoat, but I'm not sure if it's oil based and if a new undercoat on it will react poorly and make it worse
I use a allen wrench to check level.
That's a great idea!
My 23 was almost a quart low.
It's odd, but seems to be a common thing with these trucks
I see that Amsoil does not have differential oil for the front.
Yes I saw that there wasn't an option listed. Very interesting. Historically it's been the same 75w90 that is always used for gears. I do wonder if it wasn't listed on accident or on purpose
@@adventureandrepeat The manual says to see dealer! (same ones that said these trucks do not have grease fittings!)
@@owen33333 yea. I was pretty disappointed to see the lack of maintenance information in the manual. Plenty of how to use the radio tho! Ya know, the important stuff
I've seen the type of genuine GM Delco oil listed for the front diff only for the HD trucks ( rock auto is where I saw that ) and its a 75W85 gear oil but they refer to it as a "high efficiency" oil. Yet it also lists a full synthetic Valvoline that is suitable for both front and rear diffs and that is a 75W90. Then looking at the half tons, they list that same 75W85 part number for both front AND rear diffs but again Valvoline 75W90 full synthetic for both diffs is fine as well. My gut tells me they are factory filling the thinner oil for a fuel mileage gain ... the theme of thin engine oil for the 1/2 ton etc but not allowing it for the high tow rated HD trucks in the rear diff. Obviously its the rear diff that takes the brunt of the work load throughout most trucks life and if four wheel drive is used on a highway pulling something, its going to be winter roads so therefore cooler or or off road at slower speeds. Now I could be misguided in my thinking but that is what I sense is going on and I doubt its a bad thing to be using the thinner oil in the front diff as its mostly just going along for the ride with no load and just has to have its internals lubed due to the cv shafts turning the internals. Certainly up here in Canada with the cold winters I can see it would benefit just that little bit to run the Delco oil in the front diff ( or an equivalent if such exists )
@@charlesb4267 I would agree. Thinner hot oil temp would help with fuel economy. But as far as cold temps, the 75 winter rating means they would all be the same viscosity at your freezing temps
I would be curious is the lower viscosity warm temp was meant to help reduce cavitation. But even just switching oil brand can simply reduce cavitation as well
The level is 0mm to 10mm from the fill hole bottom. Jut fill it until it's running out. Don't have to go through all these gymnastics with a zip tie.
Your right. It is not required. But I like to check so I can document and monitor levels over time. And if I ever have to warranty it I can give a specific measurement
@@adventureandrepeat The service manual says 0mm to 10mm. Easier to just use 0mm.
@@bruceb1958 yes we also filled ours until it came out the drain plug
Ridiculous
It was low from factory as much as they cost
It's sad that dealerships aren't checking it as part of the PDI
unreal brand new Truck GM can't fill the diff!!!!!
Yea it seems to be across the board with these trucks. No idea why other than hubs were installed dry and it lost a quart backfilling the hubs
@@adventureandrepeat I just purchased 2024 gmc sierra 1500,4x4 i gues i should check diff?
@@sjupicudacuda898 I have not heard anything about the half tons having the problem. But it may not be a bad idea just to check it anyway. You made an investment in the truck, 5 minutes just to check and verify it will help keep your investment in good condition.