My ratchets get heavy use at work. I put a drop of regular engine oil beside the drive and work the oil in the cover with a few turns. I do this every weekend and they’re perfectly clean inside and work like new. My theory is, if there’s a constant supply of extra oil, it will get rid of dirt before it causes wear and sludge. Engine oil is meant for high pressure metal on metal contact and has detergents to keep everything clean. I do the same thing with ratcheting wrenches, torque wrenches, electric impacts, etc.
My craftsman 75 tooth ratchets were a little dry. The 1/2 was bone dry. I went to my local ace hardware and picked up super lube. Ratchets now are great, smooth, and quiet
Used to work in a aerosol paint factory and worked on the machines along the assembly line. My tools would get covered in paint regularly, which would require soaking in paint thinner/ toluene, which would seep in to the ratchets. So I would re-lube some of my ratchets twice a week at times. For larger 1/2" drives or coarse tooth ratchets I found heavier bearing greases are the way to go. For finer tooth and smaller drives I always like white lithium grease, it'd keep the action feeling smooth like butter but still allow it to ratchet super easily with no resistance. But that was partly because I was anticipating to re-lube it again. For long term lubrication I would go with Super lube for most ratchets. My only gripe with super lube is if you put even just a LITTLE too much in, it will effect the back drag, so on a loose bolt you're more likely to have to hold the socket to click over on another tooth. It will feel smooth, but not freely moving. I think it's able to seal little air pockets between teeth or something and doesn't want to let it click over without a little help sometimes, but that's just my shot out theory.
I have been handling, using, lubing, and repairing ratchets since the mid 1970s. But I can see now that I have never done it right. I have always used whatever lube was handy (i.e. free) around the shop without much regard for which was best or considering the circumstances under which the tool was being used or the nature of its design. I can see now that I have been a FOOL and I wonder if any of the ratchets I returned under warranty for being "broken" were really just so dry that they couldn't function. I wonder if I could have returned them to good working order myself. A couple of them were favorites, too, that I miss terribly. I feel awful about them, but I think the ratchets currently residing in my box are going to fare much better. Thanks for the primer.
Superlube is the best I used the grease for old coarse tooth or the oil on the new fine tooth all work except some new fine tooth ratchets will lock up with grease because of the suction and must have thin oil because the grease thickness will actually move the pawl out of place,!
Exactly what I use too, but like you, learned that fine-toothed ratchets will have that happen like you explained. This is the situation where I use oil, but I'll still use Super Lube on places like the underside of the head where there's no teeth.
I use chainsaw grease (just for the tip of the chain bar) for low tooth count and air tool oil for anything 60 teeth or more. It's been working for years. Well the grease for the low tooth ratchets. Fine tooth ratchets are pretty new. They weren't near as common 20 years ago.
After so much too about lubrication for ratchet, the basics are. If your ratchet is sealed with o-rings use grease, if your ratchet is not seal use oil, gear oil works perfect for that just a bit so it will not leak out so much, a non-sealed ratchet with grease will collect dirt dust debris so much
I've taken to Permatex, applying it with a kids paintbrush. Its got the right mix of tacky and runny such that unilke the greases, it won't get pushed out of the main engagement points and not travel back in or take up space between a dog/pawl and drive gear teeth causing poor or false engagement, yet not so runny it runs away clean leaving no residue. If you paint every surface with a light coat, you get great ratcheting action, and hardly any leakage. I keep the paintbrush with the permatex bottle.
Great suggestion! What specific Permatex product do you use? I've seen people suggest the caliper lube, but the most popular is their assembly lube. (Listed in the video description)
Thanks. I lubed all my ratchet tonight based on your recommendation. I used ATF and Super Lube. My Harbor Freight and Great Neck ratchets are bone dry inside, and my SK is dry, but there are some trace of oil inside. Snap-on is well oiled, but dirty.
Plus one for Superlube. Definitely agree on using a light coating on the teeth of the fine tooth ratchets. or the test has may skip. Ask me how I know?
For years I have just tossed my ratchets in a coffee type can filled with some motor oil and let them sit overnight. I do this a couple times a year, including my ratchet wrenches and have had good luck.
That works! Lots of folks suggest automatic transmission fluid used in the same manner. If you try out a grease like superlube, you'll find that it doesn't leak out in your box which is a plus to me!
Yeah one night I dropped my 1/4 drive in some jet fuel on accident, then dropped it in 2380 turbo oil like 45 minutes later...been my go to ever since. So fucking smooth 😂😂😂😂
Ive tried mag1 lithium moly grease. Just a very thin layer. Works well on my fishing rods, ratchet wrench, even my dt swiss 350 mtb rear wheel hub with a 60t ratchet ring inside is happy. No slips, all bite.
I have an old craftsman racket that has a fitting that allows you to oil it without disassembly. Any lube is better than no lube. I used bicycle bear grease as that what I had. It's a light blue grease.
You say Snapon recommends Superlube for all sizes? Should that not be true in competitors tools as well. Apparant viscosity can be decieving. Superlube is rated NGLI #2 for car wheel bearings. Superlube is also available as an aerosol. When the solvent evaporates you have a nice coating of the stuff that is in the tube. Good for getting between those little ratchet parts without disassembling those little pieces. Regardless of tooth size, it is the film on the teeth that must stay put under load, a high pressure grease. I am not sure it directly correlates to how thick it appears. You want a tough film without the gooey. I do agree with your concluson. Superlube.
snap on servicable type wrenches all share a fairly coarse mechanism (the super fine ones you cant open, require a new head assembly) so can all use the same grease. i have many ratchets froom various decades from all kinds of makers, some are coarse and are happy with grease of any consistency, some have weaker springs and fine teeth, and will skip if you use anything other than oil., my go to mix is grease and oil mixed together close to honey like, it will move in larger amounts but not in smaller amounts, so it will just about be mobile inside a ratchet so it will always get lubed, but not leak out as i dont have any with seals.
My wife found a pretty nice Kobalt 1/4 ratchet on the ground and gave it to me and I noticed that the righty/lefty position lever was stiff so I took the ratchet apart and noticed that it was quite dirty, rusty and bone dry as far as lube goes so I soaked it overnight in some white vinegar, water and dawn dish soap. Then I used a toothbrush to clean everything up good but I guess the vinegar removed the black coating on the working parts and plate so now I'm trying to look up a black coating that I can apply back onto those parts. I'm thinking either a black phosphate coating or maybe some gun black.
I use gun oil in my ratchets. 👍 I usually clean them once a month or so. My 3/8 Icon 90 tooth I've had for 2 year still works great. And I use it for alignments.
You forgot and essential part of lubrication - the hinge of the flexi head ratchet. The hinge, as like breaker bars, should be oiled to reduce friction of pin/shaft contact and peg/yoke contact. If its screw in type hinge pin, take it put and lube all with the exception of the threads. Dry, non-lubed threads help keep the pin tightened in. If its a rivet type pin, dip in oil for an hour. No point lubing the ratchet mechanism and expecting the hinge of a flexi head to give good performance when its running dry.
I use nothing but wheelbearing grease. Never have had a problem, even in cold weather. Ratchets do need to be taking apart and cleaned once in awhile though. I try to clean mine once per year, maybe every other year if they don't get used much.
Is it ok you use tick and tacky red grease. It’s what I put in all of my ratchets. Mac snap on and kobalt. Will it damage anything it’s the same stuff we use for our farm machinery
I picked up Super Lube synthetic grease and it worked great for everything except my SK 90tooth tear drop head, I had to use a thin oil, even the 120 XP GearWrench worked with the Super Lube Synthetic Grease
Yeah, it's pretty much universal. There are always exceptions though! I've been looking forward to checking out and using one of those 120XP ratchets. Good to hear they respond well to some maintenance. Thanks for the info!
The 120XP ratchets have a 60 tooth anvil gear, but with two, slightly offset pawls (to get the 120 clicks). So it's not really a fine tooth gear, which is why it works well with a grease. They're pretty awesome ratchets.
Thank you so much for covering this topic and the previous videos on how to clean and lubricate ratchets. Now can you do the same with a ratcheting wrench? I just purchased a new set and want to be able to maintain them for a long time.
You're welcome James! I enjoy trying to help and the challenge of making the videos. Ratcheting wrenches are almost universally a "sealed" tool (and therefor; not serviceable). There are a few tricks we can show in a future video though. What brand did you get?
Certain ratchets are "sealed" as well and you can still soak them in a can of oil and it will seep in and lubricate the mechanism. As for the lube recommendations, I've heard bad things about lubing ratchets with grease. When putting grease in ratchet and applying lots of torque, there is a higher possibility of slippage due to the teeth not engaging. I have two Williams Superratchets soaking in some ATF as we speak. Any oil will work though, I just use ATF.
I clean out whatever is in there and use graphite liberally, really reduces back drag on 1/4" and my Snap on ratcheting bit driver, it has very low back drag . They need to be looked at more often if liquid gets in. I use light machine oil on the others..
How do we lubricate permanently sealed ratchets? We can dunk the ratchet head in a citrus non toxic degreaser. Do we heat the grease to get it into the sealed ratchet?
Many people will just soak them in automatic transmission fluid. It will leak out over time though, so be ready for a bit of a mess. I would advise against too much heat as it may damage the o-ring seals in some sealed ratchets.
I would never use bearing grease for a ratchet, it simply is not the right tool for the job. Aside from being thick enough to potentially stop the pawls from engaging properly it isn't very slick under light loads. It also holds dirt and contaminants. A light coat of oil is all it should take. If you use so much oil it runs back out all over your toolbox, you've used too much. And even if it does run out, that means it's carrying dirt with it rather than gluing it in place like grease.
I use Lucas red n tacky in all my ratchets. I abuse them, my full weight on them breaking bolts and nuts loose, snap on, icon and Pittsburg pro all behave great with it. My snap ons feel like new after I service them every time. I usually wait about 6 months between service where I fully clean them out and reassemble everything with a full coat on them. Never had a single issue in 19 years.
Really cool vid. Was always a STP or white fishing reel grease man myself. Which ever one I was closest to at the time. Too much STP and it would ooze out some. I never really thought about this being a topic of much thought or argument!
Permatex Ultra Slick 81950 is what is considered the "Red Lube of Love", not the Clevite77 lube. Permatex mixed with Super Lube is called the "Red Paste of Love".
Yep! Those 2 mixed work great as well. I only had the Clevite on-hand for the video shoot. Otherwise; I would have shown the Permatex instead. The link in the description will take folks to the correct Permatex RLL in case anyone wants further info on it.
There's no need to "paste" it, just realize you're using a sticky oil compound than cannot be pressed out by rod to crankshaft pressure, so you don't need to use very much at all. Use a small kids' watercolor paintbrush to just paint a light coat on. The RLL will then not leak.
I just had a thought, would you consider Penn Real Grease or Penn Reel Oil to lube a 60 tooth or less ratchet, I know you have to use something with a thicker viscosity on ratchets with over 60 teeth. But Penn Fishing Reel Grease is Synthetic if memory serves and also (more importantly) has an additive to protect against and repel effects of Saltwater which may be a bonus to a Marine Mechanic, Just wondering what everybody's thoughts were???
What works good is a good quality synthetic fishing reel grease. It protected metal to metal contact, water resistant and corrosion resistant. I figured fishing reels operate at high speeds, and in harsh environments like salt water areas. A ratchet will never operate at high speeds. Also reel grease is not too thick, nor too thin
They recommend the grease for most ratchet applications. In fact; their rebuild kits come with a little tube of the exact stuff I use in the video (and have linked in the description). You could certainly use the oil-based product as well, but it will leak out easier than the grease.
What about silicone grease/oil, that is used on rubber sealings, running machines, wristwatches etc. not damage the rubber parts. Will that be suitable for ratchets?
Yes, some of the silicone-based lubricants will work well. Be careful to not get something too thick though. Let us know how it goes if you try one. Thx!
thank you for the video, i just opened my brand new 1/2 ratchet and is lubricated with gear oil, i will use sae 140 which is thick like the assembly lube...
Has anyone used dry lube? There's a couple different manufacturers that make it, but I've been using PB Blaster Dry Lube with my pliers and it seems to work great. Don't know how well it would work in an enclosed environment.
+1 on not using WD-40; it’s for corrosion prevention, light cleaning action, or mild penetrating lubrication on stuck fasteners. It is not a load-bearing lubricant.
I've always used Super Lube synthetic grease (item no. 21030). It's the one linked in the description below the video and has been great for many uses beyond ratchets as well.
That's a tough question, but generally you'd want something on the thinner side. (RLL, oil, AT fluid) A thin coating of Super Lube should be OK as well. It generally won't get too thin in hot weather and leak out in your toolbox.
I typically use gear oil since that is basically what a ratchet is I believe it's something like 75w 90 I've also wondered if Lucas oil stabilizer would make a good ratchet lube anyone ever try it.
Glass jar with enough cooking oil in to cover the ratchet head and the ratchet head and left in the jar for a day or so with the peg turned occasionally to get the oil into all the areas. When done, just take the ratchet out and leave it on a rag and let the excess leak out for 20 minutes. My longest serving ratchet, a Snap On 3/8 lever ratchet, has served me well for 30 years without a mechanism change. Cooking oil can take the heat when working a warm engine and is a brilliant lubricant. Also works well for door latches and locks! Did all the door latches in my aunt's house a few years back and all still smooth as silk.
I used my 1980 Craftsman ratchet (moderately) for 40 years before it fell apart after a fall from a ladder., so I cleaned and relubed it. It appeared to have been lubed with GRAPHITE. I washed it out with mineral spirits (little to no dirt, but how do you really tell with graphite?), dried it thoroughly, puffed in some fresh graphite powder, and off I go. 40 years from now, I'd be 114 years old, so I'm just going to be careful using it on a ladder.
Try using Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant in place of any “liquid” lubricant you mentioned. It’s used on bicycles, guns, & small mechanical assemblies. If you need something thicker, yes- Super Lube is an excellent product. www.triflowlubricants.com
I have some ratchets that are more than 40 years old. Got them when I was in high school. I didn't start lubricating them until I was working in professional shops. After I stopped turning wrenches for a living, some of them started getting a little rough. I lubed them back up and they were once again like new. But if you don't lubricate them, they will still work for years. Just not as well.
I am about to rebuild one of my ratchets and service the rest. I am considering using anti-sieze, specifically a ceramic anti-seize as it does not contain any metal and thoroughly sticks to everything it touches. Its a paste and I believe should not leak out unless heated. I only recently learned about it from a guy who has worked in the industrial industry for years. Thoughts on using it? (example of what I bought: www.walter.com/products/-/producttradename/mro/lubricants/rockn-roll ----------- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OAI9R4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Well I tried it. Worked fine until I started to use it. It's just to thin and pushes out the top and bottom, just making a mess. Possibly if I did it with a thin coat it could help... not sure. Going to go ahead and get some SuperLube and try it.
for got all of your lubricants are wrong and not fitted for ratched, grease glueing mechanism and thin oil only for short time!! ther one special oil, you spraying parts, drying 24h and then after installing together, it's thin covered mechanism with verry thin layer, pressure stable, no glueing, a lot quiter then without/other lubricants and waterresistant ...
My ratchets get heavy use at work. I put a drop of regular engine oil beside the drive and work the oil in the cover with a few turns. I do this every weekend and they’re perfectly clean inside and work like new. My theory is, if there’s a constant supply of extra oil, it will get rid of dirt before it causes wear and sludge. Engine oil is meant for high pressure metal on metal contact and has detergents to keep everything clean. I do the same thing with ratcheting wrenches, torque wrenches, electric impacts, etc.
My craftsman 75 tooth ratchets were a little dry. The 1/2 was bone dry. I went to my local ace hardware and picked up super lube. Ratchets now are great, smooth, and quiet
Great explanation of the pros and cons of each. I've had a great experience with Super Lube as well.
Used to work in a aerosol paint factory and worked on the machines along the assembly line. My tools would get covered in paint regularly, which would require soaking in paint thinner/ toluene, which would seep in to the ratchets. So I would re-lube some of my ratchets twice a week at times.
For larger 1/2" drives or coarse tooth ratchets I found heavier bearing greases are the way to go. For finer tooth and smaller drives I always like white lithium grease, it'd keep the action feeling smooth like butter but still allow it to ratchet super easily with no resistance. But that was partly because I was anticipating to re-lube it again. For long term lubrication I would go with Super lube for most ratchets.
My only gripe with super lube is if you put even just a LITTLE too much in, it will effect the back drag, so on a loose bolt you're more likely to have to hold the socket to click over on another tooth. It will feel smooth, but not freely moving. I think it's able to seal little air pockets between teeth or something and doesn't want to let it click over without a little help sometimes, but that's just my shot out theory.
I have been handling, using, lubing, and repairing ratchets since the mid 1970s. But I can see now that I have never done it right. I have always used whatever lube was handy (i.e. free) around the shop without much regard for which was best or considering the circumstances under which the tool was being used or the nature of its design. I can see now that I have been a FOOL and I wonder if any of the ratchets I returned under warranty for being "broken" were really just so dry that they couldn't function. I wonder if I could have returned them to good working order myself. A couple of them were favorites, too, that I miss terribly. I feel awful about them, but I think the ratchets currently residing in my box are going to fare much better. Thanks for the primer.
Superlube is the best I used the grease for old coarse tooth or the oil on the new fine tooth all work except some new fine tooth ratchets will lock up with grease because of the suction and must have thin oil because the grease thickness will actually move the pawl out of place,!
Exactly what I use too, but like you, learned that fine-toothed ratchets will have that happen like you explained. This is the situation where I use oil, but I'll still use Super Lube on places like the underside of the head where there's no teeth.
I use chainsaw grease (just for the tip of the chain bar) for low tooth count and air tool oil for anything 60 teeth or more. It's been working for years. Well the grease for the low tooth ratchets. Fine tooth ratchets are pretty new. They weren't near as common 20 years ago.
Can't like this enough! Everything covered and well explained!
Snap on,craftsman,sk,MAC always just used lithium grease in the tube worked just fine for 10 years
Thank u my gearwrench 120xp set all worked like shit now they work good the white lithum grease did it for me
After so much too about lubrication for ratchet, the basics are. If your ratchet is sealed with o-rings use grease, if your ratchet is not seal use oil, gear oil works perfect for that just a bit so it will not leak out so much, a non-sealed ratchet with grease will collect dirt dust debris so much
I use silicone paste or die electric greese.
Park tools lube for Bicycles does good because it’s made for a ratcheting mechanism in a bicycle wheel and is just thinner than wheel grease.
I've been using Lubriplate 630-A from a can. White lithium and creamy. Not to thick, not too thin.
I've taken to Permatex, applying it with a kids paintbrush. Its got the right mix of tacky and runny such that unilke the greases, it won't get pushed out of the main engagement points and not travel back in or take up space between a dog/pawl and drive gear teeth causing poor or false engagement, yet not so runny it runs away clean leaving no residue. If you paint every surface with a light coat, you get great ratcheting action, and hardly any leakage. I keep the paintbrush with the permatex bottle.
Great suggestion! What specific Permatex product do you use? I've seen people suggest the caliper lube, but the most popular is their assembly lube. (Listed in the video description)
Yeah the assembly lube.
Thanks. I lubed all my ratchet tonight based on your recommendation. I used ATF and Super Lube. My Harbor Freight and Great Neck ratchets are bone dry inside, and my SK is dry, but there are some trace of oil inside. Snap-on is well oiled, but dirty.
Which lube did you use for the harbor freight ratchets
@@justinjones3499 Super Lube
Plus one for Superlube. Definitely agree on using a light coating on the teeth of the fine tooth ratchets. or the test has may skip. Ask me how I know?
For years I have just tossed my ratchets in a coffee type can filled with some motor oil and let them sit overnight. I do this a couple times a year, including my ratchet wrenches and have had good luck.
That works! Lots of folks suggest automatic transmission fluid used in the same manner. If you try out a grease like superlube, you'll find that it doesn't leak out in your box which is a plus to me!
We did the same thing, what ever left over motor oil use a cup dip the ratchet spin and dip again, works for years in the shop.
Yeah one night I dropped my 1/4 drive in some jet fuel on accident, then dropped it in 2380 turbo oil like 45 minutes later...been my go to ever since. So fucking smooth 😂😂😂😂
Cancer hands
@@fredjackson8408 :D
Ive tried mag1 lithium moly grease. Just a very thin layer. Works well on my fishing rods, ratchet wrench, even my dt swiss 350 mtb rear wheel hub with a 60t ratchet ring inside is happy. No slips, all bite.
I have an old craftsman racket that has a fitting that allows you to oil it without disassembly. Any lube is better than no lube. I used bicycle bear grease as that what I had. It's a light blue grease.
Parker bearing grease is what I use on bikes
I used STP oil treatment.
You say Snapon recommends Superlube for all sizes? Should that not be true in competitors tools as well. Apparant viscosity can be decieving. Superlube is rated NGLI #2 for car wheel bearings. Superlube is also available as an aerosol. When the solvent evaporates you have a nice coating of the stuff that is in the tube. Good for getting between those little ratchet parts without disassembling those little pieces. Regardless of tooth size, it is the film on the teeth that must stay put under load, a high pressure grease. I am not sure it directly correlates to how thick it appears. You want a tough film without the gooey. I do agree with your concluson. Superlube.
snap on servicable type wrenches all share a fairly coarse mechanism (the super fine ones you cant open, require a new head assembly) so can all use the same grease. i have many ratchets froom various decades from all kinds of makers, some are coarse and are happy with grease of any consistency, some have weaker springs and fine teeth, and will skip if you use anything other than oil., my go to mix is grease and oil mixed together close to honey like, it will move in larger amounts but not in smaller amounts, so it will just about be mobile inside a ratchet so it will always get lubed, but not leak out as i dont have any with seals.
What a in depth very well put together and thought out video. I'm a new subscriber now 🤜🤜🤜
Good to hear, just bought some super lube the other day.
My wife found a pretty nice Kobalt 1/4 ratchet on the ground and gave it to me and I noticed that the righty/lefty position lever was stiff so I took the ratchet apart and noticed that it was quite dirty, rusty and bone dry as far as lube goes so I soaked it overnight in some white vinegar, water and dawn dish soap. Then I used a toothbrush to clean everything up good but I guess the vinegar removed the black coating on the working parts and plate so now I'm trying to look up a black coating that I can apply back onto those parts. I'm thinking either a black phosphate coating or maybe some gun black.
Gun/Cold Bluing.
I use gun oil in my ratchets. 👍 I usually clean them once a month or so. My 3/8 Icon 90 tooth I've had for 2 year still works great. And I use it for alignments.
I always used red grease I got from work.
You forgot and essential part of lubrication - the hinge of the flexi head ratchet.
The hinge, as like breaker bars, should be oiled to reduce friction of pin/shaft contact and peg/yoke contact. If its screw in type hinge pin, take it put and lube all with the exception of the threads. Dry, non-lubed threads help keep the pin tightened in. If its a rivet type pin, dip in oil for an hour.
No point lubing the ratchet mechanism and expecting the hinge of a flexi head to give good performance when its running dry.
That superlube looks great
I use nothing but wheelbearing grease. Never have had a problem, even in cold weather. Ratchets do need to be taking apart and cleaned once in awhile though. I try to clean mine once per year, maybe every other year if they don't get used much.
Is it ok you use tick and tacky red grease. It’s what I put in all of my ratchets. Mac snap on and kobalt. Will it damage anything it’s the same stuff we use for our farm machinery
I picked up Super Lube synthetic grease and it worked great for everything except my SK 90tooth tear drop head, I had to use a thin oil, even the 120 XP GearWrench worked with the Super Lube Synthetic Grease
Yeah, it's pretty much universal. There are always exceptions though! I've been looking forward to checking out and using one of those 120XP ratchets. Good to hear they respond well to some maintenance. Thanks for the info!
The 120XP ratchets have a 60 tooth anvil gear, but with two, slightly offset pawls (to get the 120 clicks). So it's not really a fine tooth gear, which is why it works well with a grease. They're pretty awesome ratchets.
Thank you so much for covering this topic and the previous videos on how to clean and lubricate ratchets. Now can you do the same with a ratcheting wrench? I just purchased a new set and want to be able to maintain them for a long time.
You're welcome James! I enjoy trying to help and the challenge of making the videos. Ratcheting wrenches are almost universally a "sealed" tool (and therefor; not serviceable). There are a few tricks we can show in a future video though. What brand did you get?
DIYNexus I have sets from Carlyle and am looking to get either Tekton or Gearwrench in flex heads.
Certain ratchets are "sealed" as well and you can still soak them in a can of oil and it will seep in and lubricate the mechanism. As for the lube recommendations, I've heard bad things about lubing ratchets with grease. When putting grease in ratchet and applying lots of torque, there is a higher possibility of slippage due to the teeth not engaging. I have two Williams Superratchets soaking in some ATF as we speak. Any oil will work though, I just use ATF.
SuperLube with a small amount of graphite powder..... perfect.... 👌
I clean out whatever is in there and use graphite liberally, really reduces back drag on 1/4" and my Snap on ratcheting bit driver, it has very low back drag . They need to be looked at more often if liquid gets in. I use light machine oil on the others..
Super Lube. Enough said.
I use aeroshell grease 22 on my 1/4 fine tooth ratchets.
How do we lubricate permanently sealed ratchets? We can dunk the ratchet head in a citrus non toxic degreaser. Do we heat the grease to get it into the sealed ratchet?
Many people will just soak them in automatic transmission fluid. It will leak out over time though, so be ready for a bit of a mess. I would advise against too much heat as it may damage the o-ring seals in some sealed ratchets.
@@DIYNexus Those are good suggestions. If the AT F oozes out, will the ratchet be dry?
I would never use bearing grease for a ratchet, it simply is not the right tool for the job. Aside from being thick enough to potentially stop the pawls from engaging properly it isn't very slick under light loads. It also holds dirt and contaminants. A light coat of oil is all it should take. If you use so much oil it runs back out all over your toolbox, you've used too much. And even if it does run out, that means it's carrying dirt with it rather than gluing it in place like grease.
John Terpack Agreed. No way bearing grease should be used on any ratchet.
I use Lucas red n tacky in all my ratchets. I abuse them, my full weight on them breaking bolts and nuts loose, snap on, icon and Pittsburg pro all behave great with it. My snap ons feel like new after I service them every time. I usually wait about 6 months between service where I fully clean them out and reassemble everything with a full coat on them. Never had a single issue in 19 years.
What about to clean your tools. Handles etc. I’m looking for something that I can use to clean but also lubricate.
Really cool vid.
Was always a STP or white fishing reel grease man myself.
Which ever one I was closest to at the time. Too much STP and it would ooze out some.
I never really thought about this being a topic of much thought or argument!
Permatex Ultra Slick 81950 is what is considered the "Red Lube of Love", not the Clevite77 lube. Permatex mixed with Super Lube is called the "Red Paste of Love".
Yep! Those 2 mixed work great as well. I only had the Clevite on-hand for the video shoot. Otherwise; I would have shown the Permatex instead. The link in the description will take folks to the correct Permatex RLL in case anyone wants further info on it.
Do you have a recipe for Red Paste of Love?
There's no need to "paste" it, just realize you're using a sticky oil compound than cannot be pressed out by rod to crankshaft pressure, so you don't need to use very much at all. Use a small kids' watercolor paintbrush to just paint a light coat on. The RLL will then not leak.
never really did much with my ratchets just spray some lube spray on them very infrequently and they seem to work fine
What about using Vaseline petroleum jelly?
@AYE OK SURE 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
It is petroleum based. So it would work if you don't use too much.
I just had a thought, would you consider Penn Real Grease or Penn Reel Oil to lube a 60 tooth or less ratchet, I know you have to use something with a thicker viscosity on ratchets with over 60 teeth. But Penn Fishing Reel Grease is Synthetic if memory serves and also (more importantly) has an additive to protect against and repel effects of Saltwater which may be a bonus to a Marine Mechanic, Just wondering what everybody's thoughts were???
I think that would work. I use penn grease and oil on my reels too.
I use Yamalube
What works good is a good quality synthetic fishing reel grease. It protected metal to metal contact, water resistant and corrosion resistant. I figured fishing reels operate at high speeds, and in harsh environments like salt water areas. A ratchet will never operate at high speeds. Also reel grease is not too thick, nor too thin
I agree, I just started doing that and couldn’t believe how quiet and smooth it made my ratchets
i have super lube for all of my reel
I love superlube because it makes then quite
What about deep impact sockets or swivel impact sockets? Do they need thick lubricant? Thanks
Wurth HHS 2000 spray grease seems ok .
So does Snap-on recommend Super Libe Synthetic Grease or Super Lube Oil? And can ya use Super Lube Grease in any Ratchet regardless of tooth count?
They recommend the grease for most ratchet applications. In fact; their rebuild kits come with a little tube of the exact stuff I use in the video (and have linked in the description). You could certainly use the oil-based product as well, but it will leak out easier than the grease.
Actually many kits come with instructions to “use no grease” and tell you to use a light gear oil. The mechanism is the determining factor.
Where's the taste test?
I luv Super Lube, I use Super Lube grease an oil on Everything' Best I Ever Used an it's food grade.
What about silicone grease/oil, that is used on rubber sealings, running machines, wristwatches etc. not damage the rubber parts. Will that be suitable for ratchets?
Yes, some of the silicone-based lubricants will work well. Be careful to not get something too thick though. Let us know how it goes if you try one. Thx!
Silicone grease is perfect IMO
I prefer railroad grease. 😊
Me too. Plus, love the coal dust and the steam engine toot toot.
thank you for the video, i just opened my brand new 1/2 ratchet and is lubricated with gear oil, i will use sae 140 which is thick like the assembly lube...
Wd40 always done me ok just a squirt every now on then it dose depens how much you use the rachet
How about motorkote?
Has anyone used dry lube? There's a couple different manufacturers that make it, but I've been using PB Blaster Dry Lube with my pliers and it seems to work great. Don't know how well it would work in an enclosed environment.
I just use super lube
I use wheel bearing grease on my electric ratchet and tools
what about Vaseline, or maybe silicone grease?
Both fine, most important part is keeping them lubed not so much what you use.
Do u think fluid film would be a good lubricant?
Id say it would be okay. Esp. With small teeth.
+1 on not using WD-40; it’s for corrosion prevention, light cleaning action, or mild penetrating lubrication on stuck fasteners. It is not a load-bearing lubricant.
Lithium is a poor choice because as it ages it becomes thick & stiff
and it is know to gum up the works of mechanisms lubed with it.
!
"I WANT that Ratchet" 🎉🙏🇺🇸
Do you preferred the regular super lube or the super lube synthetic?
I've always used Super Lube synthetic grease (item no. 21030). It's the one linked in the description below the video and has been great for many uses beyond ratchets as well.
Husky 72 tooth ratchet. What would be best option?
oil
That's a tough question, but generally you'd want something on the thinner side. (RLL, oil, AT fluid) A thin coating of Super Lube should be OK as well. It generally won't get too thin in hot weather and leak out in your toolbox.
I typically use gear oil since that is basically what a ratchet is I believe it's something like 75w 90 I've also wondered if Lucas oil stabilizer would make a good ratchet lube anyone ever try it.
great vid
Glass jar with enough cooking oil in to cover the ratchet head and the ratchet head and left in the jar for a day or so with the peg turned occasionally to get the oil into all the areas. When done, just take the ratchet out and leave it on a rag and let the excess leak out for 20 minutes.
My longest serving ratchet, a Snap On 3/8 lever ratchet, has served me well for 30 years without a mechanism change.
Cooking oil can take the heat when working a warm engine and is a brilliant lubricant.
Also works well for door latches and locks!
Did all the door latches in my aunt's house a few years back and all still smooth as silk.
I used my 1980 Craftsman ratchet (moderately) for 40 years before it fell apart after a fall from a ladder., so I cleaned and relubed it. It appeared to have been lubed with GRAPHITE. I washed it out with mineral spirits (little to no dirt, but how do you really tell with graphite?), dried it thoroughly, puffed in some fresh graphite powder, and off I go. 40 years from now, I'd be 114 years old, so I'm just going to be careful using it on a ladder.
LMAO- stay away from the ladder!
3 in 1
Will LPS 2 work?
Is any motor oil compatible with sockets and rachets?
I would say mostly 'yes'. I personally would probably use thicker variants, but I'm sure there are differing opinions out there. 😁
I use Royal Purple Maxfilm
SUPER LUBE - also has a SPRAY !!!!!!!
I never use anything but WB-40 in my ratchets. All grease does is attract dirt.
I use atf in mine
Usually just dunk the rachet heads in used motor oil.
All I use is Lucas
Try using Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant in place of any “liquid” lubricant you mentioned. It’s used on bicycles, guns, & small mechanical assemblies. If you need something thicker, yes- Super Lube is an excellent product.
www.triflowlubricants.com
The best lubricant 4 all ratchets is transmission fluid
Deep creep for fine tooth
Great video. How about a recommendation for a screw handle on a bench vice ?
Used CLP gun oil in mine. Ok so far…
I just do an oil change with a ratchet that needs to be lubed up, easy lol
You need to lubricate these things?
I got a socket set like 20 years ago and have never done ANYTHING to it....
No need to lubricate sockets...you’re good to go.
Jeff Kimble well it came with a wrench too lol. That’s the bit I meant. 🤣
😁
I have some ratchets that are more than 40 years old. Got them when I was in high school. I didn't start lubricating them until I was working in professional shops. After I stopped turning wrenches for a living, some of them started getting a little rough. I lubed them back up and they were once again like new. But if you don't lubricate them, they will still work for years. Just not as well.
I use ky.
I am about to rebuild one of my ratchets and service the rest. I am considering using anti-sieze, specifically a ceramic anti-seize as it does not contain any metal and thoroughly sticks to everything it touches. Its a paste and I believe should not leak out unless heated. I only recently learned about it from a guy who has worked in the industrial industry for years. Thoughts on using it? (example of what I bought: www.walter.com/products/-/producttradename/mro/lubricants/rockn-roll ----------- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OAI9R4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Well I tried it. Worked fine until I started to use it. It's just to thin and pushes out the top and bottom, just making a mess. Possibly if I did it with a thin coat it could help... not sure. Going to go ahead and get some SuperLube and try it.
Thanks for the update, I thought it would have worked well too
use engine assembly lube..
Lucas oil
Multifak ep2
Krytox, non-petroleum based. Aerospace, that superlube is crap.
I tried molasses
vaseline does everything from chapped lips to lube.
WD40 is more than just 1 product, they have a whole line of different lubricants.
PandaWonka thats what i usenfor my ratchets.....not the standard WD-40 but the one for moving metal mechanism.
for got all of your lubricants are wrong and not fitted for ratched, grease glueing mechanism and thin oil only for short time!!
ther one special oil, you spraying parts, drying 24h and then after installing together, it's thin covered mechanism with verry thin layer, pressure stable, no glueing, a lot quiter then without/other lubricants and waterresistant ...
Just use whatever you have... this video is pointless