I have a kick starter on my australian 2012 DRZ-400E model, the battery seems to charge up when I ride the bike, but after sitting for awhile like a few days to a week or so it gets flat fast, all I gotta do is kick it over with the ignition turned on, and it fires right up, even when it can't start up with the e start button, love it best mod to have on any dirt or trial bike.
I've had two DRZs. Both burned the stator coil about 12,500 miles and immediate stop. The ignition coil on the stator has absolutely nothing to do with the battery or lights. The CDI is charged off one and only one of the stator coils. The other coils are used for lighting, horn, fan, battery charge. Lights/charge are completely separate from the ignition. Reference a manual. The coils you can buy for the DRZ off ebay are better than stock, but for $50 I replace mine every 10k miles to not worry.
Interesting that you say the rect if bullet proof.. My DRZ is a weekend warrior and I keep it on a charger/maintainer during the week.. Everytime I would go ride.. It was rough to get it started, but it would go.. at the end of the session, we drive home from the mountains, and a couple hours later, it will not start. I took a voltmeter to the battery.. and reving the engine did I did not see 14v at all.. it didnt move.. I swapped out the rect. now I am seeing 14v.. tested the stator and it is fine.. seeing the readings that you are supposed to.. A new aftermarket rect. is cheap and plugging it in is easy.. I am so glad, I tried the rect. before going after the stator.
best option is to check both, rectifier was checked and worked well, stator didn't pass. Order new stator, but you are correct the rectifier is much less expensive than the stator, wish mine had the rectifier issue, would of saved some coin
sorry sold this bike years ago, but I did switch over to a michelin front and back and did find them better than the D606. On the duel sport Husqvarna I run dirt tires as it just doesn't see the streets.
I installed a LED charge indicator light, on my drz. Very simple and they work great, you can tell at a glance if the bike is charging. Installed it in the hole in the ignition switch bracket. I definitely don't want to get stranded in the woods with a flat battery.
@@travis3567 No , but it came with instructions and was a simple 2 wire install. I remember tapping into a keyed power wire and a ground near the ignition switch.
Moto Maddness Thanks for the video. I would like to do the mod but not exactly sure where the ground and positive wires come off the R/R. I understand you are going from the R/R directly to the battery bypassing the computer but which wires are you tapping from the R/R? I guess I need a detailed overview of the mod. LOL Thanks
Not totally true. If the battery falls enough, the bike won't start. Had this happen last weekend on my DRZ with a bad stator. I did manage to kick start mine and get back to civilization. It won't run with a bad stator and totally dead battery.
Not sure why you towed the bike back. I drove my bike 60 km with a completely dead battery all I did was bump start it and it drove fine the only thing that didn't work was the speedometer
Im not sure, you would need to figure out how many amp of draw you will be adding, what you have and how much you can save to run your accessories. I am running stock with no accessories, other than the rear signal light and brake light those are the only amps that are being saved by going LED vs incandescent.
bad spot for that fuse. Wire between battery and fuse is not protected and you ran right through the frame 😬 I usually have the fuse right at the battery.
I have a kick starter on my australian 2012 DRZ-400E model, the battery seems to charge up when I ride the bike, but after sitting for awhile like a few days to a week or so it gets flat fast, all I gotta do is kick it over with the ignition turned on, and it fires right up, even when it can't start up with the e start button, love it best mod to have on any dirt or trial bike.
agree
I've had two DRZs. Both burned the stator coil about 12,500 miles and immediate stop. The ignition coil on the stator has absolutely nothing to do with the battery or lights. The CDI is charged off one and only one of the stator coils. The other coils are used for lighting, horn, fan, battery charge. Lights/charge are completely separate from the ignition. Reference a manual. The coils you can buy for the DRZ off ebay are better than stock, but for $50 I replace mine every 10k miles to not worry.
Interesting that you say the rect if bullet proof.. My DRZ is a weekend warrior and I keep it on a charger/maintainer during the week.. Everytime I would go ride.. It was rough to get it started, but it would go.. at the end of the session, we drive home from the mountains, and a couple hours later, it will not start.
I took a voltmeter to the battery.. and reving the engine did I did not see 14v at all.. it didnt move.. I swapped out the rect. now I am seeing 14v.. tested the stator and it is fine.. seeing the readings that you are supposed to.. A new aftermarket rect. is cheap and plugging it in is easy.. I am so glad, I tried the rect. before going after the stator.
best option is to check both, rectifier was checked and worked well, stator didn't pass. Order new stator, but you are correct the rectifier is much less expensive than the stator, wish mine had the rectifier issue, would of saved some coin
I'm curious to know what brand rectifier you went with? Also, did you do the free power mod, or just replace the rectifier?
Have also had the rectifier conk out on my DRZ
Mmmm k?
Ummm, ahhhh ahhhhh ummmmm
dude idk why but that hmmkay totally made me laugh hahaha
Try an MT-21 on the front next time you need a new front tire. They are more predictable than the front D606 in dirt and gravel.
sorry sold this bike years ago, but I did switch over to a michelin front and back and did find them better than the D606. On the duel sport Husqvarna I run dirt tires as it just doesn't see the streets.
I installed a LED charge indicator light, on my drz. Very simple and they work great, you can tell at a glance if the bike is charging. Installed it in the hole in the ignition switch bracket. I definitely don't want to get stranded in the woods with a flat battery.
All you have to do is bump start it and the bike still rides with a dead battery
@@brandome4670 when your stator dies, your bike runs on battery till battery dies, when both don't work your pushing =(
Any chance you have a write up or link for how to do that? I’d like to add an led charge indicator to mine
@@travis3567 No , but it came with instructions and was a simple 2 wire install. I remember tapping into a keyed power wire and a ground near the ignition switch.
Moto Maddness Thanks for the video. I would like to do the mod but not exactly sure where the ground and positive wires come off the R/R. I understand you are going from the R/R directly to the battery bypassing the computer but which wires are you tapping from the R/R? I guess I need a detailed overview of the mod. LOL Thanks
This is the bit that’s stopped me from doing this mod. As I don’t know where to tap into
ruclips.net/video/KjiuEVSz6XQ/видео.html I relooked and found this. This tells ya about the leads and the connections ya need. Hope this gets to ya.
GREAT MOD. guys, install a kick start. Its fairly cheap and you never HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE BATTERY...
Not totally true. If the battery falls enough, the bike won't start. Had this happen last weekend on my DRZ with a bad stator. I did manage to kick start mine and get back to civilization. It won't run with a bad stator and totally dead battery.
Not sure why you towed the bike back. I drove my bike 60 km with a completely dead battery all I did was bump start it and it drove fine the only thing that didn't work was the speedometer
your stator was good and would have provided power, my stator was no good so bike was running off battery, battery will not get you 60km.
Will the DRZ handle heated grips and a phone charger? PS: Solomon is a beautiful boy.
Im not sure, you would need to figure out how many amp of draw you will be adding, what you have and how much you can save to run your accessories. I am running stock with no accessories, other than the rear signal light and brake light those are the only amps that are being saved by going LED vs incandescent.
You should call this video "My hand"....uggggg!!
What a handsome dog. What kind?
great dane
Bad place for wire routing. Long term, the vibration could chafe the insulation and short the wire.
years later still no issues and no chafing, but yes you are right it could.
bad spot for that fuse. Wire between battery and fuse is not protected and you ran right through the frame 😬 I usually have the fuse right at the battery.
fuse is at the battery, no issues with the fuse itself or with clearance.
wipe solomons eye boogies!
princess auto