Great content as always, Bret! I had zero off-roading skills/experience before June this year, but what helped was watching one of your videos last year and remembering the different techniques you were teaching for different scenarios. I got caught out in the Dolomites four months ago on a fully loaded on a GSA800 with normal road tyres looking for my hotel when the TomTom decided to direct me up a gravel mountain path at sunset (it lied) and for 45 minutes and a sketchy 35% gradient section along the way (and back down) your video really helped to keep the bike upright throughout. Thank you!
As you point out it's all about finesse. And that takes hours of training. People like to buy a shortcut and choose technology instead of a course. Until they find out that it's training, training, training that makes them a better rider. You're a great instructor, Günter/Nürnberg
I had some very fundamental issues while taking your training course that continued beyond the course to simple street riding. I was on a new bike and though I thought I had adjusted the controls, I decided to start at the beginning again and check the control positions. I found the break pedal way too high. Each time I moved my foot to the pedal the natural bend of the leg put instant pressure on the brake. That's why I kept locking up the rear wheel when I was simply trying to position my foot and that's why my simple stops felt uncontrolled. I didn't feel myself pushing on the brake pedal, but I was. I lowered the pedal down (maybe a bit too low but I'll adjust as I continue to ride) and my rear braking suddenly felt back in control again as if I was on my old bike. Now I can go back and practice body position and clutch/throttle control without worrying about my rear wheel locking up and coming out from under me. Lesson learned; make sure my bike fits me and not try for me to fit my bike.
Reminds me of our braking lesson on the wet grass at Penmerryl Farm last month. It was interesting seeing the braking difference with ABS ON/OFF and in the different riding modes. Bikes in the shop getting a new alternator (eventually). Looking forward to riding/practicing again soon. Definitely going to get a set of those WildAtHeart short levers...
58 y.o and just 7500km on 🏍 but getting a lot of advice from videos like this, now time to close the phone and practice this. Thank you 😊 . I finally subscribed 👍
Some great tips in this video, they help me understand what I am doing compared to what I actually do. I particularly like the keep a visible horizon tip, I’m always being told look further ahead when you’re riding but body has ever said why it works before. 👍👍
Bret! I was wondering where you went! I didn't realize you changed channels. This and all your videos are so helpful. Thank you for taking the time for the community.
Thanks Bret. I'm a bit nervous to go out and practice solo for reasons of dropping the bike, injury, etc... I'm hopeful with more time and experience I'll gain the skills to get past that fear of riding or practicing solo. See you soon in Plain!
I was lined up to attend the ABR festival happening the weekend after this one but then they backed out. I will be teaching in Iceland that weekend now 🤷♂️ I offered to come in 2025 to do talks or lessons but they have to confirm dates with me. Leave a comment with them if you attend and maybe they will put me on the schedule. If I go maybe I can make some contacts to do a full program in the UK some year. www.abrfestival.com/tickets/
I guess you know that a locked wheel is the worst to slow down...People are used to lock the back brake... they should learn to better control it. Worst, it has been now more than a century that we have asymmetric back braking, meaning the bike tends to slide on the back when locked ... keep the good job !
Thanks for your videos 🔥 I'm living in southern Germany not far from the Alps. Mostly riding on paved roads, but using any oppurtunity to go on gravel but no real off-road trails so far. I'm learning a lot from your videos.
Great video. For levers, the best I've found are just shortened stock levers, at least on my KTM I love those. They're nice and thin, not bulky like a lot of aftermarket levers. Cut the end off, clean it up so it's not sharp, done.
I agree with most points except from the "pull the clutch in" part. Engine braking in four strokes is one of the major advantages in braking with these bikes. I am able to quickly downshift and engine brake the rear wheel (into even a slide) reducing the importance of the back brake (which I also apply). Engine braking is a crucial part of braking a four stroke motorcycle why cancel it? Moreover, the front brake should be squeezed not grabbed and, optimally, never allow the front wheel to lose traction. Squeezing the brake vs grabbing it, allows the front forks to gradually dive (vs instantly dive) which in turn progressively increases the contact patch of the front tire and thus its traction. A violent transition from rolling to braking is more likely going to end up skidding the tire which is not what you want. Hence squeezing not grabbing (and then letting it go) is advised.
Whether its brakes on a motorcycle or a mountain bike, I love brakes with good modulation. The rear brake on my DR650 is like an on/off switch. At least with current brake pad and rotor setup. I just got a V85TT and not only is the rear brake more powereful, its far easier to modulate the brake with a fine touch.
Look at you rear brake turning that big bike. It looks like a small, light dirt bike. You really seem to like the Desert X. I've seen a lot of good things about it.
Sports bike riders will tell you hot to brake with conventional forks to weight the front wheel. I've seen ADV Norden rider show his braking style for good composure. I've seen MX riders getting mass start towards thefront of the bike by holding inside leg forward and sitting on top of the gas tank. Always appreciate someone throwing a leg over a new bike and pointing the finger.❤
Hey Brett, what goggles are those? They look fairly trim and easy to fit into different helmets. Also, glad to see you out enjoying the nice weather and making another informative video for us! Nice DesertX!
@@BretTkacs I bought a pair years ago because of the video you did about them. I love them and use them whether driving or riding. They are great for riding when I have the visor up to keep things from hitting me in the eyes. My nose piece broke recently and they sent me several spares when I contacted them, no charge. I never wear goggles anymore, even when riding on unpaved stuff. If it gets dusty, I just close the visor on my KLIM Krios. As soon as the speed drops, the visor comes up because those helmets are hot! I also like that the sides of the glasses are flat and fit nice between the head and helmet without creating pressure hot spots that start hurting when you've been on the bike for a while.
Hey, Good afternoon I love how you explain Everything, very kind of you, thank you very much.... Have you think about Doing REVIEW ON MOTOCYCLE, DIFFERENT, BRAND. SPECIAL THE NEW , BMW 2025 1300, GS
Thanks for the lesson. Do You see any problem with shifting weight to the front (as opposed to the instruction in video) when braking aggressively on grass with knobby tire? Seems to keep traction better in this specific situation - shorter brake distance... Any thoughts ?
Question: if you are standing, the weight of your body is only transmitted to the bike via bars and pegs. I see where leaning forward can increase front bias and thus traction, but how does leaning back increase rear bias to the rear axle? Is it because of pivot leverage from unintentionally pulling the bars, which would then lighten front bias/traction? Leaning back may actually lessen the load on the pegs. Ive done this all my life but I dont understand the physics of it. The more I ride the more I prefer a central attack position for everything.
What can you do when you need to brake and stop on a somewhat steep upward trail? The bikes weight makes it want to slide backwards with the brakes completely engaged?
If the surface don't alllow sufficient traction to go against gravity, despite the break, placing the motorbike in a slightly out of the way position, therefore not completely straight, is usually sufficient. Exist some videos about this topic. Also on that type of situation to be stuck in between the up and down, if you are up quite a bit, the challenge is going down, that is the more difficult part, to control the slide, to go down. It's interesting because you took advantage of the limited traction and gravity, that instead is a problem when you want make a stop, in between uphill. Two side of the same coin.
Only in the opening scene and the rear brake demo did I deliberately lock the rear. Some shots even included the use of Ducati's off-road abs including rear abs. It's the dust that looks like a slide each time. Also in dirt the goal is to keep both wheels rolling but reality is often very different. Theory vs reality. The ONLY shot where the front brake was not used was the demo of rear brake only
Hi Brett, my explanation on why it's important to keep the back wheel rolling is based on physics: The whole purpose of the brakes is not to stop the wheel from rotating, they are meant to transfer kinetic energy (from the bike moving forward) into heat through friction between the disks and the brake pads. A non-rolling wheel means no friction, so no speed reduction. There is still friction with the ground, but it dissipates far less energy than the brakes, particularly on loose gravel. 😉
My poor little brain has trouble with your comment that standing allows weight shift to the back wheel as needed...while your bum might shift backward & forward relative to your feet on the pegs, they are just hinging on the pegs. Therefore it is the hands gripping the bars that transfers this weight shift to the rear. So why can't this be as easily accomplished by sliding back in the seat ?
I'm not pro by any means, but I've noticed that bike seems to be bit more stable if you're supporting your weight slightly on pegs. What happens is that you're working kinda as an dampener too. You're not moving and bike is free to squirm and "jump" below you on heavy braking on ie. gravel. Imo need isn't generally much. Like just couple cm's above seat is enough if you can control bike on that position. I ride old XT's and such that don't even have virtually any suspension adjustments and especially with those it feels you need to counter some bike movements with your body not being "rigid" with bike.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Legendary helmet to hat change!! It’s fun to watch, and then there’s so much to learn for a seasoned pro.
Amazing instructor. He is definitely one of the best out there when it comes to off-road riding skills.
Great content as always, Bret! I had zero off-roading skills/experience before June this year, but what helped was watching one of your videos last year and remembering the different techniques you were teaching for different scenarios. I got caught out in the Dolomites four months ago on a fully loaded on a GSA800 with normal road tyres looking for my hotel when the TomTom decided to direct me up a gravel mountain path at sunset (it lied) and for 45 minutes and a sketchy 35% gradient section along the way (and back down) your video really helped to keep the bike upright throughout. Thank you!
Helmet to hat transition is a traded mark, owned by this riding master. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
As you point out it's all about finesse. And that takes hours of training. People like to buy a shortcut and choose technology instead of a course. Until they find out that it's training, training, training that makes them a better rider. You're a great instructor, Günter/Nürnberg
I had some very fundamental issues while taking your training course that continued beyond the course to simple street riding. I was on a new bike and though I thought I had adjusted the controls, I decided to start at the beginning again and check the control positions. I found the break pedal way too high. Each time I moved my foot to the pedal the natural bend of the leg put instant pressure on the brake. That's why I kept locking up the rear wheel when I was simply trying to position my foot and that's why my simple stops felt uncontrolled. I didn't feel myself pushing on the brake pedal, but I was. I lowered the pedal down (maybe a bit too low but I'll adjust as I continue to ride) and my rear braking suddenly felt back in control again as if I was on my old bike. Now I can go back and practice body position and clutch/throttle control without worrying about my rear wheel locking up and coming out from under me. Lesson learned; make sure my bike fits me and not try for me to fit my bike.
Great video! The detail of trying to balance only with your ears when you look down - such a simple fact we should all remember. Thank you!
Great Video. Thanks again Bret.
Reminds me of our braking lesson on the wet grass at Penmerryl Farm last month. It was interesting seeing the braking difference with ABS ON/OFF and in the different riding modes. Bikes in the shop getting a new alternator (eventually). Looking forward to riding/practicing again soon. Definitely going to get a set of those WildAtHeart short levers...
From all off road drills, this is the one I am really good at. Everything else...I suck bad. LOL
58 y.o and just 7500km on 🏍 but getting a lot of advice from videos like this, now time to close the phone and practice this. Thank you 😊 . I finally subscribed 👍
Keep it up
Thanks! You're the best.
Thanks Bret. Great instruction as always.
Thanks for making that lessons - I've already learned so much from you. I hope, one day I can have a training we you in person :)
As a “new” rider I appreciate the why to the how. Really helps me understand. Thanks!
Glad to help!
Great lesson! Thanks for putting this together
My pleasure!
Good to see Om 🙏🏽🙏🏽 on your helmet. Well great content and ore power to you. Love from India 🇮🇳
Some great tips in this video, they help me understand what I am doing compared to what I actually do. I particularly like the keep a visible horizon tip, I’m always being told look further ahead when you’re riding but body has ever said why it works before. 👍👍
Really great video! Very important lesson as this is not intuitive. Braking is much more important than speeding 🙂
I agree
Today A rider I met showed me the Sam levers. He was bragging on them too. Look like a good size and still strong.
Bret! I was wondering where you went! I didn't realize you changed channels. This and all your videos are so helpful. Thank you for taking the time for the community.
Welcome back... You have a lot of catching up to do 👍
Thank you for making these videos and I hope some day that I could attend a riding course in person.
I always wondered what the back pocket on the jacket is for. I need to fill it with hats and practice my braking!
Another excellent video for the new rider. Thank you for posting.
That's exactly how to brake on a mountain bike, but that's usually to put more grip down to reduce skidding
Yep
Thank you Bret
Thanks, Bret!
Thanks Bret. I'm a bit nervous to go out and practice solo for reasons of dropping the bike, injury, etc... I'm hopeful with more time and experience I'll gain the skills to get past that fear of riding or practicing solo. See you soon in Plain!
When ,if ever, can we expect You in UK for some training courses? It would be such a great experience.
I was lined up to attend the ABR festival happening the weekend after this one but then they backed out. I will be teaching in Iceland that weekend now 🤷♂️
I offered to come in 2025 to do talks or lessons but they have to confirm dates with me.
Leave a comment with them if you attend and maybe they will put me on the schedule.
If I go maybe I can make some contacts to do a full program in the UK some year.
www.abrfestival.com/tickets/
Wild at Heart hand controls! I have those on my Expedition.
I thought they were just a lucky pair that bent rather than broke. 😂
need to check where I am looking thanks as always.
Thanks for another informative lesson. Great to see you out and about. I really need to come out to your neck of the woods and right with you.
We have fantastic desert riding out here
Looks just like where I live and ride - Northern Nevada.
I guess you know that a locked wheel is the worst to slow down...People are used to lock the back brake... they should learn to better control it.
Worst, it has been now more than a century that we have asymmetric back braking, meaning the bike tends to slide on the back when locked ... keep the good job !
Another great video! Thanks Bret!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for your videos 🔥 I'm living in southern Germany not far from the Alps. Mostly riding on paved roads, but using any oppurtunity to go on gravel but no real off-road trails so far. I'm learning a lot from your videos.
It's rough to master dirt without dirt 🫤
Great video.
For levers, the best I've found are just shortened stock levers, at least on my KTM I love those. They're nice and thin, not bulky like a lot of aftermarket levers. Cut the end off, clean it up so it's not sharp, done.
Love the video Bret. Would you consider doing a part 2 follow up for seated max braking on the street?
Another great video
Thank you for sharing your wisdom on this. Your videos are always informative.
I agree with most points except from the "pull the clutch in" part. Engine braking in four strokes is one of the major advantages in braking with these bikes. I am able to quickly downshift and engine brake the rear wheel (into even a slide) reducing the importance of the back brake (which I also apply). Engine braking is a crucial part of braking a four stroke motorcycle why cancel it?
Moreover, the front brake should be squeezed not grabbed and, optimally, never allow the front wheel to lose traction.
Squeezing the brake vs grabbing it, allows the front forks to gradually dive (vs instantly dive) which in turn progressively increases the contact patch of the front tire and thus its traction.
A violent transition from rolling to braking is more likely going to end up skidding the tire which is not what you want. Hence squeezing not grabbing (and then letting it go) is advised.
Whether its brakes on a motorcycle or a mountain bike, I love brakes with good modulation. The rear brake on my DR650 is like an on/off switch. At least with current brake pad and rotor setup. I just got a V85TT and not only is the rear brake more powereful, its far easier to modulate the brake with a fine touch.
Part of the challenge on the DR is the low traction load on the rear. A heavier bike is often easier to modulate due to the hight traction loads
Thanks!
Thank you for your support!
Bret-
thank you.
Appreciate your stuff, Bret!!!
Come to the ABR festival in the uk bret. Would be great to hear your talks...
Leave a suggestion in the box in a week when you go that you'd like me to go. 👍
If they get enough then I will move up the priority list
Thanks a lots helping us with tips
Good off-road braking tips" keep in mind while standing either straight up or leaning back almost all your weight is still on the foot pegs"
Look at you rear brake turning that big bike. It looks like a small, light dirt bike. You really seem to like the Desert X. I've seen a lot of good things about it.
I do!
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for this, Brett!
My pleasure!
👏Thank you, very happy for your students, safe&happy riding.
Great video. Thanks
Thanks for sharing.
Awesome refreshment, need to check those lever, cheers VV
They are pretty sweet. I have never had levers that changed the character of the bike. I have these on my GS too
@@BretTkacs Just check their site, they don't have them for my Multi V4 Rally, wondering is they are not the same as for Desert X
Sports bike riders will tell you hot to brake with conventional forks to weight the front wheel. I've seen ADV Norden rider show his braking style for good composure. I've seen MX riders getting mass start towards thefront of the bike by holding inside leg forward and sitting on top of the gas tank. Always appreciate someone throwing a leg over a new bike and pointing the finger.❤
MX riding is a different application and that is not a quick stop method for MX bikes but hard braking into a berm.
This was really good.
Good stuff! Thank you!
Great stuff!!
Hey Brett, what goggles are those? They look fairly trim and easy to fit into different helmets. Also, glad to see you out enjoying the nice weather and making another informative video for us! Nice DesertX!
Those are Arclite Optics, Paul and I love them.
Use the discount code Tkacs10 and you get 10% off
arcliteoptics.com/product-category/motorsports/
@@BretTkacs I bought a pair years ago because of the video you did about them. I love them and use them whether driving or riding. They are great for riding when I have the visor up to keep things from hitting me in the eyes. My nose piece broke recently and they sent me several spares when I contacted them, no charge. I never wear goggles anymore, even when riding on unpaved stuff. If it gets dusty, I just close the visor on my KLIM Krios. As soon as the speed drops, the visor comes up because those helmets are hot! I also like that the sides of the glasses are flat and fit nice between the head and helmet without creating pressure hot spots that start hurting when you've been on the bike for a while.
Hey,
Good afternoon I love how you explain Everything, very kind of you, thank you very much....
Have you think about
Doing REVIEW ON MOTOCYCLE, DIFFERENT, BRAND.
SPECIAL THE NEW ,
BMW 2025
1300, GS
Image quality of this video is great
Thank you! I do try hard to make quality videos 😁
Great tips...as always! Thanks! 🖖🇵🇹
Nice helmet ❤
I see Aum ❤
now THAT was the ultra-pro speediest helmet to hat transfer ive ever witnessed !! another excellent informative educational video !! THANK YOU
Again great explanation 🙏👍. Will you do that eg for / with DCT HONDA Africa Twin Adv. ?
Great tips, thx a lot! 🤩
Hi Bret. Thanks for you video, its really helpful. What tires are you using on your motorcycle?
Great points...
One question, why do you recommend to squeeze the clutch and disengage the engine?
I’m curious, Bret. how tall are you?
In one of his videos from 4 years ago, he says he is 6 feet tall.
🕉️ Om shanti. 😊 Another great video Brett.
Excellent video. Are those stock hand guards?
They are HDB handguards hdboffroad.com/product/ultimate-hand-guard-ducati-desertx/
Thanks for the lesson. Do You see any problem with shifting weight to the front (as opposed to the instruction in video) when braking aggressively on grass with knobby tire? Seems to keep traction better in this specific situation - shorter brake distance... Any thoughts ?
Nice vid.
Thanks for including the helmet to hat transition you are famous for.
You bet!
And smile while braking, because attitude matters. 😄
Hi Bret, what kind of brake/clutch levers do you prefer on a GS? Thanks!
Question: if you are standing, the weight of your body is only transmitted to the bike via bars and pegs. I see where leaning forward can increase front bias and thus traction, but how does leaning back increase rear bias to the rear axle? Is it because of pivot leverage from unintentionally pulling the bars, which would then lighten front bias/traction? Leaning back may actually lessen the load on the pegs.
Ive done this all my life but I dont understand the physics of it.
The more I ride the more I prefer a central attack position for everything.
what's those levers on the X?
👍💪
The ADV physiologist ha.
Just as important as in the NFL.
The “weightless rider” always in balance.
Why do you put your right foot down when you come to a stop when you are supposed to finish the stop with your back break only
Why would I finish with my back brake only?
Yet somehow, the "front brake isn't for off-road" fuds are still around.
谢谢from china
Nice jacket , what model is that ?
Alpinestars Boulder Gore-Tex Jacket
Https://www.alpinestars.com/collections/adventure-touring-jackets/products/boulder-gore-tex-jacket
👏
What can you do when you need to brake and stop on a somewhat steep upward trail? The bikes weight makes it want to slide backwards with the brakes completely engaged?
If the surface don't alllow sufficient traction to go against gravity, despite the break, placing the motorbike in a slightly out of the way position, therefore not completely straight, is usually sufficient. Exist some videos about this topic.
Also on that type of situation to be stuck in between the up and down, if you are up quite a bit, the challenge is going down, that is the more difficult part, to control the slide, to go down.
It's interesting because you took advantage of the limited traction and gravity, that instead is a problem when you want make a stop, in between uphill.
Two side of the same coin.
@@nonsolorasatura9093 Thank you
Come on, we all know it's not the rider, it's not the time on the bike, it's all about the HAT!! :)
Thanks for the vid!!
Exactly!
It looks like you are locking up the back wheel to stop? surely that's not right tho?
Only in the opening scene and the rear brake demo did I deliberately lock the rear. Some shots even included the use of Ducati's off-road abs including rear abs. It's the dust that looks like a slide each time. Also in dirt the goal is to keep both wheels rolling but reality is often very different. Theory vs reality.
The ONLY shot where the front brake was not used was the demo of rear brake only
@@BretTkacs Thanks Brett - I figured that must be the case but though I would ask to be sure I understood.
Hi Brett, my explanation on why it's important to keep the back wheel rolling is based on physics:
The whole purpose of the brakes is not to stop the wheel from rotating, they are meant to transfer kinetic energy (from the bike moving forward) into heat through friction between the disks and the brake pads.
A non-rolling wheel means no friction, so no speed reduction. There is still friction with the ground, but it dissipates far less energy than the brakes, particularly on loose gravel.
😉
I have watched the intro 15 times, I still can't understand how the helmet melted into a hat.
It's sorcery
My poor little brain has trouble with your comment that standing allows weight shift to the back wheel as needed...while your bum might shift backward & forward relative to your feet on the pegs, they are just hinging on the pegs. Therefore it is the hands gripping the bars that transfers this weight shift to the rear. So why can't this be as easily accomplished by sliding back in the seat ?
I'm not pro by any means, but I've noticed that bike seems to be bit more stable if you're supporting your weight slightly on pegs. What happens is that you're working kinda as an dampener too. You're not moving and bike is free to squirm and "jump" below you on heavy braking on ie. gravel. Imo need isn't generally much. Like just couple cm's above seat is enough if you can control bike on that position. I ride old XT's and such that don't even have virtually any suspension adjustments and especially with those it feels you need to counter some bike movements with your body not being "rigid" with bike.
Think about the pegs as the little point that the board balances on in a teetertotter. Your body is the board.
A bunch of videos out there on sitting vs standing. Bret and also MotoTrek cover this.
;-)
if any indians are watching then notice the 🕉️ on his helmet
Hi Bro, your videos are great. Suggest not to put on that hat. It is somewhat irritating.
I got a say pal, do you know what's better than that hat? Being bald.
...I'm just here for the "Helmet-To-Hat" transition. Any chance you'll do an instructional video on that, Bret?🤣 J/K! Keep up the great vids!
🤮
Thanks!
Thank you for your support
Bret-