Never Install A Whole House Surge Protector Until Watching This!
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- Опубликовано: 2 мар 2023
- Watch at proclaimlibertry2000 about the importance and installation of whole house surge protection.
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Why wouldn't the Air conditioner be protected? It's fed off the main (or sub) panel, at least in the houses I've seen. If both phases are protected, and both phases are utilized for the 220v feed ro the AC, I would assume it's protected.
I wondered the same thing, maybe in some cases the AC has a separate feed from the mains. Otherwise it doesn't make sense.
There are service options where the AC can be shut off during peak hours by the Electric Company. Perhaps that is the scenario where it would require a separate surge protector.
@@johnwatson1131 could be. Glad I'm not in commifornia.
@@frankthetank3342 We have that option here in Detroit. It's voluntary and you get some reduction in your bill for it. Not worth it IMO
That's the same thing I was thinking.
Central does not have its own service entrance so it would be protected
the black and red wires should be as short as possible from the surge protector to the 50 amp breaker and if possible directly after the main breaker to be most effective. i had enough extra wire to each breaker in the panel after the main breaker to move all breakers down 2 spots to make room for the eaton surge protector after the the main breaker . also the is a nice cover that fits over the eaton surge protectors if you have a finished wall like i have . very neat in appearance .
Other videos have said the opposite. Put it as far away from the main, which is correct? They share the same idea that the wires should be as short as possible.
@@johnwatson1131 code states installation in the first slot from the main.
@@rudert56Code does not state the location of the SPD relative to the main disconnect. It only need be integral to the service equipment or adjacent to the service equipment. Whether the SPD breaker is next to the main or at the opposite end of the panel bus will not have a significant effect on its performance.
@@rudert56 - NEC 230.67 does not say that.
@@johnwatson1131 ....I've received this answer from Siemens when installing my FS140 device,....It appears the ampacity of the bus is large enough not to matter much if you locate the breaker close to the main-incoming breaker, or not. That said, it IS much more important for the leads to be as short as possible. Twisting the leads or running them tightly-wrapped and parallel helps the impedence issue. See here---> .... ep-us.mersen.com/sites/mersen_us/files/2018-11/TT-SPN8-Effects-of-Wire-Lead-Length-on-Voltage-Protection-Rating.pdf
As a service Electrician, I routinely find the breaker for the whole house surge suppressor tripped. It doesn't seem to matter which manufacturer. Most customers don't routinely monitor the status LED's.
A 50 amp circuit is rated for #8 or #6 wire depending on wire insulation, but hey it's got a UL listing.
My A/C doesn't have its own power! It's fed right into the side of my main on the outside of my house, literally right next to each other, A/C - Main panel. It will still protect it. I've never seen a home power there a/c or heater separately from the main house power. That must be a northern thing. Lol I'm in TEXAS!
I will add though that this was the BEST explanation of how to install this surge protector I've seen yet. Good job sir.
I’m from Canada, and have never seen an A/C have separate power from the main panel. Other commenters seem to indicate some local power companies have the ability to disable AC during peak times, meaning it may be fed separate service from your main panel.
One thing worth noting is every other installation for this surge protector I’ve seen says to put it as close to the main breaker as possible. Here he is specifically saying the manufacture stated it does not matter.
@@DozIT ..I've received the same answer from Siemens when installing my FS140 device. It appears the ampacity of the bus is large enough not to matter much if you locate the breaker close to the main-incoming breaker, or not. That said, it *IS* much more important for the leads to be as short as possible. Twisting the leads or running them tightly-wrapped and parallel helps the impedence issue. See here---> .... ep-us.mersen.com/sites/mersen_us/files/2018-11/TT-SPN8-Effects-of-Wire-Lead-Length-on-Voltage-Protection-Rating.pdf
im in Texas and my house is only 3 years old. My 3 ton AC has its own 240V Breaker outside of the house.
Pretty sure your looking at a quick disconnect next to the air conditioner. It's not a breaker, however, some of those do have a breaker installed in them. Either way those AC hot lines receive power from your main panel and this surge protector will be in action for your AC equipment.
Do you ever (recommend?) tinning strand wires when working them into home boxes?
It might help the connection. If the screws are tightened securely though your protection is there. Really that would be an OCD move.
THANK YOU! 2 questions pls: do I protect my AC unit then? Also, since I have a sub panel, which located abt 30 ft from the main, should I install two whole house surge protector? Thank you again
No. but installation of additional surge protection on the individual circuits improves protection beyond what a main panel protector can provide, since surge voltages double at line ends of all unloaded circuits and reflect back doubled along each circuit. Whole house capability would be wasted, however.
@@robertmeredith3940 thank you!
General rule of thumb is you want to have your surge protection as close as possible to the device you're trying to protect. Whole house surge protection may work, but typically a surge will go to the farthest circuit and double in amplitude when it hits the end. Kind of like snapping a whip.
The sad reality is all the grounding that's required to keep us safe from electric shock provides an excellent way for a groundswell of voltage from lightning to come back up through the ground system and fry everything in your house even if the lightning strike doesn't directly strike your home The surge can come up through the grounding system. In fact, that's usually where lightning surges come from. Power surges obviously can come in through the energized phase conductors or the neutral, but more often than not they're coming in through the back door on the ground system when it's because of a lightning strike.
So in other words, they do not really work in all cases. This explains why every product comment section has 3% of the people saying their electro-domestic devices fried and their whole house surge protector still had a green light. If the surge comes in on the power line you have protection, if it comes in the back door like neutral or ground you are screwed. I guess to be 100% covered, you would have to surge protect neutral lines and ground lines as well. Three units perhaps?
I'd love to see a video that explains what these actually do and why they are wired the way they are. I understand circuit breakers, GFCI and when to bond neutral to ground but I'm having to guess how a surge protector wired this way works.
Plenty of videos that explain exactly how they work, but long story short... when the voltage spikes or surges, the surge protectors resistance becomes very low, lower than any other part of the system, thus the spike in voltage and current goes through the surge protector instead of your sensitive electronics.
My main box is full and I have a sub panel. Will this protect my whole house in the sub panel?
This will protect anything in the main breaker box and behind the main box...i.e. and sub panels tied into the main breaker box.
In your case, if you already have a 20 A double pole circuit breaker in the main panel, consider piggy backing the protector on that existing circuit breaker or installing it into a box on that circuit as close as possible to the main panel. It adds only milliamps of load; and you would risk circuit tripping only if the protector failed shorted, rather than open. More distant locations allow the surge voltage to rise at the main panel while the surge travels to and back from the sub panel; and line impedance limits the thousands of amps the protector might have to draw to reduce the voltage.
I purchased the same Eaton surge suppressor. I couldn't bring myself to connect those small twelve gauge wires to a 50 A breaker. I tied it to a 15 A double pole breaker. I know it will not give me the same capacity, but if something fails in the supperessor, the breaker will clear the fault without melting the conductors.
I'm with you the wire gauge doesn't add up to the capacity of the amperage... Also questioning how this thing works looks like it may be designed to throw a 50 amp short when it detects too high of voltage ??? Not sure is that supposed to trip the main breaker to protect everything from damage ??? I would like to ask the engineer who built this how it's supposed to work ??? I don't get it and I worked with electricity my whole life ... Maybe Paul can explain he's a sharp guy ???
12ga is 20A
I will agree on this part. With the Amp's or Volts this surge box is "supposed" to handle, those wires look more like speaker wires. But for some reason, All of these whole building Surge Boxes have these tiny wires...I just don't understand why they are not using something like 10 gauge at least.
@@kf4wnf The surges are of such short duration that the wires cannot overheat; the current actually flows only on the outer surface of the wire. The circuit breaker is only to operate in case the surge protector shorts out from excess duty cycles. A 20 A one should be sufficient to protect the wires; a 50 A is inappropriate for such protection.
@@robertmeredith3940 very strongly disagree... heat is heat whether short duration or prolonged... while I'll agree the shorter the leads the less the resistance, and stranded wires can handle more ampacity. Wire insulation comes in a variety of choices, but a 50 amp load requires at least #8 depending on insulation. In short unless the spikes are monitored who knows the voltage the spikes carry. 1 thing is certain once the smoke escapes electrical devices it's impossible to put it back in, whether the wire insulation melts or not.
Will this device protect the electronics from an EMP?
Armageddon question. If that happens you won't even have electricity. That EMP will likely just shut down the grid and no surges would result.
Is this also an emp shield?
Don't be a dim bulb
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Nice install. The FS140 Siemens Surge PRO is now the top of the line protector.
That's the unit I installed in my house last year.
It's hard to believe that those flimsy wires are going to protect against 100,000 amp surge compared to the thick bus copper bus bars inside the breaker panel. I've always thought these things are somewhat of a scam. They certainly won't help if a 13.8 kV line falls on a 240 volt distribution line bringing 13.8 KV into the home.
You need to understand that during a surge event they happen rapidly as to not last long enough to heat wires up and cause a fire.
@@tylerthompson5705 Yes, I know that duration is short with SOME surges, however, even a very short duration surge will not heat up the wire, but there's another problem: the fast rise time will not be shunted effectively by a wire of high impedance. Ideally, one needs bus bars to shunt the higher frequency surge that would otherwise be absorbed in the thin wire which has a high impedance to fast impulses.
There is another situation where a surge can last for a longer duration: a tree falls on to a 13kV line, which drops on to the 240V distro, sending 12kV to the homes. It might be seconds or minutes before a safety breaker cuts off power. I was witness to one such event about a decade ago. Five homes were damaged by fire and the wiring had to be completely replaced.
Confused by one of your statements.....you say A/C needs its own surge protection because it is not protected by the whole-house surge protection device installed here. I have a heat-pump style A/C ( I think that in itself may be irrelevent to my point I want to make, but simply identifying what I have)...that has the air-handler in the attic and the condenser /compressor unit outside, as it typical. Regardless....BOTH of these major pieces of equipment have their breakers in the main panel box...along with all other circuits I have for the house. So...if the surge protection device is installed like you did here on the main panel bus....why wouldn't these A/C components be protected either?
The reason I made that statement is because in a lot of cases, the AC unit is not wired into the main panel, but rather has its own separate breaker outside.
@@proclaimliberty2000 ....that is fine, but as constructive-criticsm, maybe that point should have been included when you made that statement ( "In cases where the AC is not wired into the main panel"...etc, etc). . Leaving it "open" as you did...and making a blanket statement as you did.... simply confuses. Don't get me wrong, I think the vid you did was in all other respects fine, and also your speech and talking pattern is very clear and easy to listen to....so please take this in the spirit intended. Have a great day.
In that case the additional breaker for the HVAC system would need it's own electric meter. Is that the case?
My point was your main breaker box normally does not cover other outdoor appliances, such as central air conditioning.
@@proclaimliberty2000 ..pretty "normal" here (SC), and most other places I've seen....the "outdoor unit" and the "air handler" breakers.... both inside the main service panel.
⚡Excellente! ⚡
In my opinion if this is designed to shut the electric off when a surge comes thru it,does it turn back on by itself or do you need to reset by hand
If the latter is true and my major appliances turn off and I'm on vacation for periods of time,everything in my fridge, freezer will thaw out my food
Also if this happens in the wintertime my pipes will burst and flood my whole house!
Just put surge protection on small things like chargers,etc.
It doesn't turn off power to the entire panel in the event of a surge. It directs the voltage from the surge to ground while allowing everything else on the panel to operate normally. At worst, only the breaker that the surge protector is connected to will turn off. No need to worry about other breakers turning off as a result of this surge protector.
The surge protector does not shut your power off; it only draws enough current to reduce the peak voltage of the surge for its short duration. The circuit breaker limits the current it might draw in failure so your main breaker does not trip. Do not use a 50 A breaker because it might not coordinate as well with the main breaker in a heavily loaded panel.
A SPD is sacrificial. If it absorbs a a big hit it is toast. It did what it is designed to do and you install a new. If the LED(s) are out…replace it. Must check frequently to ensure LED(s) are on. SPD’s do not turn power/breakers On or Off.
You're the only one I've watched that clarified the issue with the central air conditioner. I'm wandering if that would also apply to the furnace
In all cases I've seen they are both fed from the same main breaker panel and would be protected. I don't know what he's talking about in the video about them being separate.
He actually confused the issue....he didn't "clarify", if the breakers that feed the AC are also in the same main panel as the rest of the breakers. If that is the case, the AC should be protected along with the other circuits.
Yup
A better way to mount the SPD is to crimp appropriate size ring connects to the black wires and attach one black wire to the L1 and L2 leg studs just below the Main breaker (4:08 time stamp). Twist the black wires around each other on the way to the L1/L2…that increases “performance”, not twisting wire ends. Wire is solid core. You want the SPD as close to the Main as possible. L1 and L2 is as close as you can get. If using a breaker, you need to move breakers to get your SPD breaker to the top. Wiring the SPD breaker at the bottom just sacrifices all the breakers above. The SPD is just a shunt. Wiring directly to L1/L2 saves a breaker and slot. Also, if the current breaker at the top nearest the Main is the proper amperage and rated for dual connections (this is shown on the side of the breaker) you can use this breaker but it becomes the sacrificial breaker. Whatever else runs on that breaker is inop until the breaker is replaced. To get optimal protection you want the wire run to be as short as possible with no sharp angles or loops in the wires. If you must put install the SPD at the bottom box, direct wiring to L1/L2 is preferable to using a breaker.
Revelation 3:11
KJV Bible
Behold, I come quickly: hold that fast which thou hast, that no man take thy crown.
Revelation 22:7
KJV Bible
Behold, I come quickly: blessed is he that keepeth the sayings of the prophecy of this book.
Revelation 22:12
KJV Bible
And, behold, I come quickly; and my reward is with me, to give every man according as his work shall be.
Revelation 22:20
KJV Bible
He which testifieth these things saith, Surely I come quickly. Amen. Even so, come, Lord Jesus.
There is no point to your scripture. Nothing about Salvation or living for Jesus Christ. Not John 3:16 or Romans 1:26-28 Just very confusing.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv
1 Corinthians 15:1-4
KJV Bible
[1] Moreover, brethren, I declare unto you the gospel which I preached unto you, which also ye have received, and wherein ye stand;
[2] By which also ye are saved, if ye keep in memory what I preached unto you, unless ye have believed in vain.
[3] For I delivered unto you first of all that which I also received, how that Christ died for our sins according to the scriptures;
[4] And that he was buried, and that he rose again the third day according to the scriptures:
Ephesians 2:8-9
KJV Bible
[8] For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: it is the gift of God:
[9] Not of works, lest any man should boast.
Romans 10:9-13
KJV Bible
[9] That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved.
[10] For with the heart man believeth unto righteousness; and with the mouth confession is made unto salvation.
[11] For the scripture saith, Whosoever believeth on him shall not be ashamed.
[12] For there is no difference between the Jew and the Greek: for the same Lord over all is rich unto all that call upon him.
[13] For whosoever shall call upon the name of the Lord shall be saved.
John 3:16
KJV Bible
For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.
John 14:6
KJV Bible
Jesus saith unto him, I am the way, the truth, and the life: no man cometh unto the Father, but by me.
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@@heavenbound7 Yes, that should be in there. but I use new living translation, without all the .. thee's and thou's and beseacheth. It normal people talk and easily understood. Not like trying to rea it in german. thanks.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv
KJV is correct but all others have been changed in one way or another.
Acts 8:37 is in the KJV but missing in the NIV.
This is only one example.
The NKJV isn't correct either.
I read 1611 KJV and KJV only.