MAKING CAST IRON PULLEYS FOR VINTAGEMACHINERY.ORG
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2020
- This video shows the trials and tribulations of molding one off jobs. Sometimes these attempts go flawlessly but often these require several attempts to get things just right. The struggle in this case was in my techniques, what works well with some patterns may not work for others due to the shapes, size etc.
proper sand ramming is also critical as you will see. On the second attempt I resort to using mold wash to help strengthen the facing sand but decided to discard that all together.
windyhillfoundry.com/
#windyhillfoundry #castiron #madeinmississippi #madeinusa #vintagemachinery.org #iron 
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I appreciate you showing the failures, we often learn more from our failures than our successes!
And I've had more than my fair share of failures around here😞
@@windyhillfoundry5940 If you haven't failed you haven't tried.
Extremely IMPORTANT to show you are a person and showing that matters 🤣 😜
@@windyhillfoundry5940 Failures aside, those came out great. Is there a machining video of those pulleys being fitted to the machinery? You may not know, but maybe you do?
So true
It looks like the gremlins were out in force that day. The end results looked incredible. I can't wait to see Keith mounting them up on the lathe to finish the process
MY SAME EXACT THOUGHT!
Finally! Someone puts good music with this kind of video.
I love the site love to see that you’re supporting it.
I always enjoy these castings from Windy Hill Foundry!!!!
back in the 60's i was a millwright helper in the Westinghouse airbrake foundry. your videos bring back memories. the first time i saw a spill i knew exactly what i didn't want to do for the rest of my life. our ladles held over a 1000 lbs of metal and hung from monorails. they had large handwheels that tilted the ladles thru a gearbox and every so often something would break in the gear box. the guys that poured had clothes that looked like they had been used for target practice for birdshot. those were the days. we had i line that poured brass and they did a lot of "government work" i really like your videos
Thanks and thank you for sharing some of the past. It's always interesting to hear how things used to be. As for clothing, I pretty much match their description 😁
Clark it is always a pleasure to watch you cast stuff my friend.....Thank you very much indeed...!
Thanks Steve👍
The finished castings look great.
G’day Clarke, it took a bit of work to get it done but they looked good at the end.
Cheers
Peter
Always great castings. Thakks for the video.
My Grandad was one of the last Sussex pattern makers in Lewes. I’m always proud to mention the skill involved in the carving process especially as I’ve ended up being a carpenter. A luthier just around the corner from my house makes violins costing several thousand pounds but insisted that pattern making was another level up from his craft. I was astonished.
There is definitely a lot to pattern making. A master at wood joinery and a knowledge of the rules for pattern work and with machinist background really aids in this. It's rare to find anyone that practices both these days.
Why yout sand color black sir
Such a nice wonderful work welldone
I watched Kieth Rucker machine the pulley casting you made. Dam, your good. There were no hard spots and no warp-age, As A retired machinist I tell you it was a pure delight watching the cutter go through that iron.
Thanks Mark. I always strive to cast the best. A large majority of the success in avoiding hard spots derives from a well filleted and good radius on external corners. If a pattern has any sharp corners or is too thin it will chill and create disaster for cutting tools
Nice work. It was a bit of a challenge but turned out great.
Nice work! Hope dollar is ok, she 's just a pup so forever pioneering events.
She is constantly into everything and still learning I noticed she is cautious with bee's now😁
Top job!! All the way from Yorkshire
Kieth Rucker brought me here. Great work! I’m hoping to see a 36” straight edge with a dovetail one day!
I would love some voiceovers on this footage. Lots of good footage but we need some personality! Keep up the good work though you are inspirational for the rest of us.
As always great video
What a great channel. I have made a few patterns using 3d printing but never gotten to see the end result or the process.
That one really made you work for it but in the end you nailed it! I just hope Dollar didn't learn any new bad words @4:00... 😁
She is a lucky pooch, my parents' dog was an accomplished slayer of innocent woodland critters and full grown, but tangling with a racoon in the yard one night left her darn near gutted and healing up for the better part of a year.
I can see why you like those mold weights also acting as a pouring target and a barrier against overflow spills. It will be interesting to see how the more industry-standard type mold weights cast from Sandrammer's pattern compare! 😉
Dollar hears plenty around here🤣. She is a little too brave and yes she is lucky that's all that happened.
Yes the weights I use are very handy and easy to handle/stack/distributing the weight. If I ever pour 100 pound castings a big thick plate would come in handy but probably not at this time. I do have a production job for 1000 traffic light bases in the works which are big but only weigh 22 pounds in Aluminum. We are probably going to use buckle flask for that though so no weights needed
@@windyhillfoundry5940 I'd love to see that job in production, Clarke!
Nothing is a failure as long as you learn something from the experience.
Well put
Very neat, thanks.
Thanks for the tip on how to find what surface to use for the datum.
Yes Vincent, I should always mention that the side opposite of the vents will always be the best surface to locate on
When I went and had a bunch of fancy art school classes, my teacher instructed me to, whenever we casted stuff for a foundry, to mix the sand with regular white, ELMERS GLUE, (Just a small bit, enough to make almost a paste, and cover the item you want to cast with the sand/paste mixture and let it sit overnight. When you come back to it the next day, you wont have any problems with the sand moving on you.
Enjoyed your video so I gave it a Thumbs Up
Sure look good in the end, nice job Clarke.
Thanks Randy👍
What I find amazing is how fragile the sand seems when you are putting the molds together, yet at the same time, how it is able to withstand molten iron poured into it, and maintain the desired shape so well. My take from this? Next time I think I want to tell someone to go pound sand, I'll show them a LOT more respect. :) Doing what you do here takes a lot of skill and understanding of the process.
And if you pound this hard enough it gets hard as a rock
How cool is this wow
4:06
Omg I'd be throwing such a guest fit after all the rapping lol. You have the patience of a saint.
🤣 I get that from my dad, my uncle once said my father has the patience of Jobe
I haven't seen much on the stress relief side of things. Could you do more on this?
I drove a truck for a treating company but did get the technical side or theory of it except to balance the metal so it's not brittle...?
Would be cool to find some of the brasil casting guys and find out what they are doing on their sand. They sure do have some smooth looking castings coming from there.
Brian normally I can run these through a much finer seive but because of the weather I had to run the Muller on the wet side which was caking that size so I went to the next one up
Very nice result... just as good if not better than the old masters!
Thanks but I am always learning. Foundry work is the most challenging thing I have ever done.
what was the draft angle on this wheel? looks very close to 0 degrees of draft
I used to have a Company called PDS Power Transmissions making pulleys up to 1.2 metres diameter in V and Poly V. Mast of our bigger sizes were cast locally using sand casting. We peoduced standard and specials for all the major bearing houses.
Really interesting to here background like yours, thanks👍
Can you simply cut up cast iron into pieces and remelt and cast it? What flame temperature is needed to melt small pieces of cast iron?
What kind of sand do you use to cast iron?
Could it be used for food-grade items like cast iron skillets?
Es hermoso tu perrito🐾💓💓💓💓🇨🇱
If first you don't succeed try try again. Dollar has really grown I almost did't recognize her glad she didn't lose her eye when she had that tussle with the raccoon. Hope you and the family are doing well. Stay Safe. Stay Healthy. God Bless!
Thanks and yes she is growing faster than a weed
Clarke, do you oil the castings as a cosmetic treatment or is it to stop corrosion?
Regards, Mark Presling 😃🇦🇺
Mark, I saturate these with oil after stress relief. I do this as a preservative but not sure it's necessary. The castings seem to have a protective oxidized patina after the last operation.
Hello, why do you add ferro silicon?
Do you know the base chemisty of your melt? The squares that Abom was machining a few weeks ago had some chill on the corners and you may benefit from moving your FeSi addition to the ladle to combat that. There is about 5 minutes of fade time available for standard ferrosilicon so adding it as late as possible will aid in graphite formation and chill reduction. You can throw it on the bottom of the ladle as long as it all encorporates and you slag the furnace effectively.
Yes my innoculants are timed down to the second along with the total melt time. I take every precaution to make sure the material is at it's best possible state prior to pouring.
The chill is as you stated in the corner. If the castings are machined down to or past the tangent of that radius there should be no problem. If I see consistent chill the pattern needs to be adjusted.
First time I've seen your channel. Usually watch MyFordBoy. I will probably stick with Al BUT it's interesting to watch. Thanks for taking the time to share your passion!
Watch both! It is legal and free!!!
@@paulcopeland9035 I'm developing my skills in lost Foam, 3D Printed PLA and Wax Ceramic Shell casting. The Foam is CNC Router carved. I've used plaster and Wall Mudd successfully but want to take it to a "Pro" level. I think watching both channels will provide many tips and techniques.
When the guts fell out baby, bath and the bathwater straight in the skip. Ooof!
A little help here please
Ive never been around castings
What is the matterial the mold is made out of
I would think the water you add is crucial to the form holding together, is it possible for the form to dry out to much for example if you formed something a day of two ago, will it still work?
Yes it is crucial. I have poured molds that have set up 2 to 3 months and they did just fine. The water is just there to give the clay its plasticity. To form, hook and harden around the agrigate( sand). Once its dry everything remains locked in place
That larger spoked wheel appeared to have very little draft. Do you think that's what caused you problems on that casting?
Interesting as always Clarke. Would it have been worthwhile to use sand and sodium silicate like you would for a core instead of your usual ramming sand to avoid the issue with the mold falling apart?
As a last resort yes but then you chance destroying the pattern if it doesn't easily come out.
Love this video as I use it for my own inspiration. Thank you! 🙏 I do have a question though, what percentage of feerosilicon do you add to your iron by weight?
Thanks Rolando, I go easy on thick castings, with that said a lot of factors play into the ratio of inoculating but for the average it's about 3 grams per 40 pounds
@@windyhillfoundry5940 Thank you . Love the videos with the voice over.... gives a great platform for learning your methods. 👍
Man i got a couple exhaust parts for my boat that i wish i could have someone like this make copies of. Its a 40 year old boat and the parts are getting hard to find. Theres ports inside the manifold that water runs through. A little more complex that just a standard manifold. Gosh i wish i had a way to melt some cast and make a mold..
+50 for the doggo interludes.
People often complain about a casting having "hard" spots.
Does the stress relieving eliminate that or just reduce it?
What you do is dangerous, labor intensive & very rewarding.
The poring must be very hard on your back.
I really like the detail you go into in your videos.
Thanks Laddie, stress relieving helps to a small degree but it is more for helping relax the internal stresses. The best way to avoid hard spots is to have a good pattern design. If a pattern has sharp external corners it will chill every time. The size of radius is proportionate to its mass or thickness as well.
It appears to me given the crazy amount of time it took to rap the pattern, a larger draft should have been used. Since the OD is going to have to machined anyway, a fer more passes on the lathe would have been easier.
What is the optimal draft angle for this type of pattern?
Actually the draft angles were fine. The geometry of this along with some flywheels create the issues where spokes don't make up enough mass to keep the form rigid. Mounting this to a board would have stabilized that issue.
@@windyhillfoundry5940
Thanks Clarke.
Looking to have a custom pulley made ...are you still around doing it ???
This is beautiful! I envy this!
How much would you charge for casting air brake relays?
Thanks, as for air brake relays, it would all depend on the size, corework, etc.
@@windyhillfoundry5940 I can do any required machining and drilling just need the casting done.
The overall size is about 4 x 4 x3 inches.
I could send you a picture or what would you need ?
Mold wash? It's role makes complete sense but it's a new one to me, i need to get on to Google to find out more...
Two ideas, a vibrating ram to set sand and a winch system to pull up the cores.
Just curious, do they make a electric sand rammer? I would think it would help to get a good consistent pack to the sand and also use less of the Clark energy... I never cast anything so I'm only an abserveror... But I thoroughly enjoy observing you cast!!!!!
@Some Guy I started to put pneumatic in my question as an option. Thanks, Some Guy!!!
@Some Guy I was thinking maybe a air chisel type tool could be made to work if a big flat round piece was made on the end of the tool.
@Some Guy I can very well understand that it would do a seriously hard sand pack. But I would think that would be better than having to redo the mold several times because the sand fell in. I have seen this happen a few times watching videos on RUclips. And I would imagine it would make a better surface on the part being molded.
I actually have a pneumatic rammer but it's too much force on these smaller flask. It literally mushrooms the sand out of the bottom of the flask
@@windyhillfoundry5940 That wasn't something I thought about... My thinking was something to make it faster and easier... I always look for faster and easier on my projects... Thanks for the response!!!
Awesome! At 12:25 is that a bug hole in the sand? Very weird! I hope to try my first iron casting soon. This was super interesting!
Thanks and I have no idea what caused that. Good luck with your iron pour, I will never forget the moment I finally pulled it off. It was a mark of confidence like no other. It is amusing to me when I hear someone scoff at what I do as if this is menial work anyone can do. Their ignorance is radiant at that moment😁
@@windyhillfoundry5940 thank you so much! Ive been doing bronze on my channel for a while, but never iron. Do you have any tips? I think ill buy some aluminised gauntlets and leg covers.
@@JulianMakes I'm actually subscribed to your channel and you do great work. As for tips on safety gear, two layers of leather around your abdominal and spats for sure. As long as its leather you should be good but two layers as in an apron or something under the jacket is a must
@@windyhillfoundry5940 ahh thank you! You might see my first cast iron pour then! and brill i will get the correct gear/two layers. Thanks so much!
I was going to try to weld my potbelly stove firepot......Now I am thinking I am going to cast one!???? please advise!
Hi Daniel, it all depends on it's functionality. If it's a feature that the weld would hold sufficiently, it's a lot easier, faster and cheaper to weld it back. I have an 1850's cane mill and I cracked the drip pan. A repair would be sufficient in this case because all the torque is on the side plates. If it was a feature under a lot of pressure or work load, recasting would be the best option. I hope this helps
@@windyhillfoundry5940 Thank you for your reply!. Well I may be able to weld it since there is no real load associated with it, it is more of a containment than load bearing...but it is dirty dirty dirty and years and years of heat and cool at least 100 years old but probably not continuous duty. It seems that you all make it look so easy and its something I always wanted to do but never got beyond kindergarten lead casting. I have been watching many casting channels and I think this is within my capabilities with some coaching. Can I count on some coaching from you? you seem to be one of the best! and there are many out there. P.S. the welding rod "Muggyrod" that is recommended for dirty cast is $140 per pound I am sure I will need at least that much.
Like #505
Thanks for the video!
It looks like you are using recycled molding sand. I wonder if using fresh sand (with binder) would reduce the chance of the center of the mold falling out?
Hi David, the binding of the sand is fine. It only broke loose after beating the mold for a half hour😞
So...When ABom, Castiron Gypsy, and Keith were all at your place, you had them doming the sand WAY up during the ram up. Why wasn't that done here? Why was it done before? My initial thought when I saw it was it was overkill..never seen that done, then here I thought "Maybe it's done for a REALLY tight compacted mold. Just curious.
I always heap the final stage of topping off because sand will compress several inches
Hey Ckark did you get the pattern from Sandrammer yet?
Yes I did, as I was telling Sandrammer, I have nearly 2 dozen jobs on the back burner, some paid for in advance that must be done before I do anything on the side. This might be a couple months down the road before I get to a stopping point
un maestro -
Clarke, why do you add that FeSi? Is it acting like a flux?
Inoculation of Ferro silicon accelerates graphitization through extending dendrites. Without it dendrites can stop growth prematurely.
@@windyhillfoundry5940 So does it acts like a catalyst and later expelled in the slag or rather being absorbed into the crystalline lattice?
Did you really need to tap the pattern loose for 29 minutes?
It's no wonder the center fell out (4:00) afterwards when you turned it on its side.
I'm afraid so, 28 minutes just didn't cut it
Here's what I've learned about cast iron. It's a not a metal you pour, take it out of the mold not long after it has fully solidified, and quench it. You need to let it take its time too cool down.
Me too
Good
Third* is a charm...,.
but but but...that ford guy is the only one who knows how to do this shtuff. /s
What is the black powder you are using?
I think you are referring to the graphite
@@windyhillfoundry5940 yes that is it. Where do you get a supply of it from?
@@windyhillfoundry5940 what I'm asking is will any graphite work or should I be looking for a certain kind or brand?
Hi Kenneth, the graphite I use is from Dixon. Not sure the part number
@@windyhillfoundry5940 thank you for taking time to answer. The help is appreciated.
I notice you dont put any parting powder on.the pattern, in.the drag half ?,,,Should have tamped down.that fine facing sand, in the drag, before filling.the mold with coarser sand....flask is to.deep to get a good ram around the pattern if your filling it to much
True but I don't want to chance striking the pattern since it isn't mine.
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1400° F or C
What happened to your cute assistant? Required too much physical activity? Or was the heat too great during the pour?
She may have been the one operating the camera and getting those great shots of the pour.
Condescending, much?
School is back in session so she's back to the books
couldn't you use a hydraulic ram make more sense and a device to vibrate the patterns to release better
I have used Hydraulics and I have a pneumatic rammer but it's too much force for these small flask. As for a device to vibrate patterns, I've been researching it👍,
Music video
Getting the pattern, sand, temperatures, pouring, and finishing right is crazy hard. Easy is not the word when you have this hobbie.
I would rather have listened to a verbal explanation of this, than the piano music.