You know what I love about your channel are repairs. I an not a farmer, but I repair things for a living and I enjoy getting new ideas when I watch your repairs
i would adjust float springs so a pull on the header to lift it was 100 pounds so it could foat with the ground and would only have 100 pounds on the wheels..or more but i see alot of thread on the spring and not much gap in the coil of the spring so i would think it could be adjusted so there isnt as much poundage on the head sitting on the ground so when you hit a hole it wont try to plow up the ground with the header because it will float over the hole...so im guessing..
Evening Wes I don't know about krone but Claas balers are set to ride on the stops and the caster wheels are there if there is an obstacle to ride over ,lumps in the field much like how you have set your Baler up now but as you said it's frustrating when it's leaving hay behind on the ground
The Krone Big X has a different pickup wheel setup on the grass head. The pickup wheels are support both sides rather than on a spindle like the big pack baler pickup wheels are. The Claas 'Dual purpose and harvest transport' wagon(8300-8500 models) has hydraulic suspension as an option on the grass pickup. The Krone forage wagon has a hydraulically driven pick up which has a lot of movement' angle. The Krone big pack baler probably has rear guide wheels as an option for the pickup. But the guide wheels could be more a hindrance than help. Personally I would see where some back up support (adjustable) chains can be added so the Krone bigpack baler's pickup can never be 'dropped' (into field holes) if the 'clip pin retained' adjusters ever fall off.
Excellent 4960 videos, I watched all seventeen of them, I wish I had that type of knowledge you have You, Coton top and logger wade man you young men can work on that heavy equipment that 4960 she's a beauty and a beast I did feel very sad and mad on one of your 4960 videos about a troll trolling you and your family. When people hate on you, It because you've got something they want. Never let anyone dictate how you feel.
My personal thinking is that Krone is one of the most ridged and strongly built balers, they will last forever in Europe's perfect prepared fields, in the harsh USA fields like yours the JD Big Balers might have elimanted that problem already,
hi good vidio, I think putting shock absorbers on the wheels would let the pickup plough into the ground more , what you need is more spring tension, looks like those springs have no more adjustment hence the Grey area.
yup memory stress strain.remove in reverse order u be good. u need some anchor pots in floor portipower chain unlimited angles and heights. so u are a frame straightner too
not badly bent at all . just a slight strain , with all the rented land that you farm you are going to have to live with these things as you never know what the fields are like . also that was designed in germany where the fields are like snooker tables . fully agree with you that it could have been better designed .
you don't adjust those blocks based on the gauge wheels you adjust them to the height of your pickup teeth to the ground, usually around a inch and a half, then you can adjust the height of your gauge wheels, on level ground they shouldn't hit the ground, should be a half inch higher and they must be rigid so it raises your pickup head out of the way, putting shock into the gauge wheels will just drive your teeth into the ground
Think you should leave it alone. After all you said it your self: it is under a warranty. Just set it so that it works and remember how it was with New Holland. :D
I'm sure you do this, but perhaps the float valve isn't letting it ride correctly ( putting too much pressure on the pickup ) there should be a way of putting a bit of pressure to take a bit more weight with the ram that's there. We used to put little knob adjusters in hydraulic lines on our timber harvester heads to easily adjust the flow on certain Rams.
it doesn't that much time to clean the grass out or blow it if you don't have time let Carl or Timothy do that's not hard to I'm sure that's other farmers do it i see them clean after the get done and every time i see there video's there machines are cleaner than yours
Crazy how big machinery can be so fickle at times, tire stops spinning, pick up header jams etc. It's insane to think about. That's why it's best to examine the small shit first.
Those brackets might have bent when the tire blew out. I believe you said the machine rose up then crashed down when the tire let go. To be honest when I saw that video the pick-up head wheel on the left side looked out-of-whack then. Might have also just been wear and tear going over furrows.
Your correct the head is too heavy for the frame that holds the wheel. The frame that holds the wheel should not bend like that. I doubt that they would reduce the weight. I don't think that any available spring will work were it is, the location for the spring mount on the head should be farther toward pickup section of head. A shock would help, but you should not allow the head hit the ground. I do have an Agricultural Engineering degree if that helps.
some one had probably said this but maybe what the frame work for the wheel needs to be beefed up.some how it seemes to me if it has bent once before and you can bend it back with some blocking and a bar to fix then no matter where u set it its going to bend again. if u carry to high its probably going to leave hay behind in spots again. just my 2 cents good luck wes
soaringtractor your an idiot obviously you don't like Wes, his content, or anything about this channel so leave. I don't like basketball or golf so I don't watch them and I don't go to ESPN and give them a hard time about showing them. no one here needs or wants your opinion. to help you to understand LOL!!!!!!!! OMG!!!!!!!! HUH!!!!!!!!! DUUUUHHHH!!!!!!!!! LOL!!!!!!!! and a few ;'-%+!';*+"+!';"-*--+"+!!!!!!??? since you like talking like a 12 year old girl maybe this will help you LOL!!!!!!!!HUH!!!!!! DUUUHHHHH!!!!!!!!?
Wes Looking at the right hand stop the teeth are striped. The weight of the header has striped the stop. I feel Krone could do a much better design on the header lift and height control.
yah it seems something is missing, not sure if you could just adjust that spring or if they have a HD version.... but yah it does need to contour the ground better without crushing the wheels.... and you can't exactly change the contour of your ground to be easier on the baler lolz.... nor can you just not bother to care if it picks up all your hay or gouges the ground
Looks like the springs are tightened all the way. You should try some shorter or stronger springs to reduce the pressure from the header on the ground.
I drive a Krone Big Pack 1290 HDP XC and it's not meant that the wheels should touch the ground, they must be just above the ground and only touch the ground if the pickup is about to hitting a bump.
You can't put a shock where you're talking about. The connection between that wheel and the header has to be solid. If the wheel can move separate from the header it would not keep the header out of the ground. The only way to fix the problem is to lighten the load on the tires. Either that spring was not the right spec on the drawing board or its faulty from the supplier. You're either going to have to get a heavier spring or put another one closer to the front of the pickup. Just my two cents, if it's even worth that.
If you look at the hydraulic cylinder for the lift you will see that it has a yoke that allows about 3" of up travel. Which would be around 8" of wheel travel up to allow float for uneven ground.
hogcat... well spotted. There is definitely something seriously wrong with either the setup or the design then, makes no sense that the head cannot float above and below the mean ground level without breaking it's self up. I would still say it would need to be in float though, 8" of free travel would be nothing in a normal field situation. If you think of it if the baler drops into a hole as the pickup hits a lump then that only leaves 4" of travel in each direction which is nothing. Maybe Wes runs it in float and there is another issue but it's just a thought.
You would think there was more of a slot on the end of that cylinder as a some woodchuck hole mounds can be really high. If you set a minimum height using the cylinder like to go over an obstacle you would still want it to be able to go up in the air a fair amount in case you misjudge the obstacle you are trying to go over or in case something jams up under the pickup. Biggest problem is the springs are to small. I would set that adjustable block one position below lever so the pickup can still go down a little but not to far if you hit a big hole.
With the cylinder on there like it is it seems you need to put the scv in float to allow the header to float. Maybe this is why the gauge wheel support axle is bending. Maybe read the manual?
I would leave it at its old position and let a little air out of the tires. but that's just my opinion. I may be wrong but I would tried that first. Wes
Could you set height on the rigidity bar, that you can't lift? Pulling the safety pin and adjusting the height with hydraulic and pinning back? Sincere video, as always.
I don't think your float springs are doing anything. I would be checking that the rams raising and lowering the pickup are controlled by a spool that can be set in a float position, so that the springs can move. I would setting those blocks a tad lower so that the pickup can dip down as needed. The fact that both the wheels attachment were bent suggests it needs better setting up for sure. All the best.
Wes is the ram on the pick up, 2 way acting or single acting? Would it be worthwhile considering putting the spool valve in the tractor to the "float " position? Putting the spool valve into "float" position the pick up may follow ground contours including going over holes, washways etc with out causing damage to you're baler.
hi wes ,could you not use the spool that lifts the header and adjust the pressure down to 5 or 10% so it is giving the spring some help but pressure low enough not to raise header
at 8:32 (left side of machine) adjuster teeth are "normal"... at 10:59 right side if machine) adjuster teeth are all misaligned, possibly the pin that holds it is bent also? Reason for the pin not going in?
i think the rams are single acting so there's no way he can push down on the pick up with hydraulic pressure from the spool, why do every one think they know best and say clean it down there a joke, keep up the good work wes & take no notice of the *wats
Since the field is a little softer than pavement would you want to set the adjuster down a notch? Just asking? Also it looked like the adjuster was messed up a little, maybe that's why the pin wouldn't go in easy.
Doesn't look like there is much room in there but is there enough room to double up the springs? Maybe mount another spring besides the ones that are there?
Them damned critters!! In the fields that bore holes and shit in the ground and make mounds of dirt N crap allover are to blame and damn hard on stuff to! Not WES!
Hi Wes, would you or somebody be able to explain to me the "Blue" tank is this like an added mixture to burn off the carbons of the exhuast flow when the fumes come out of the turbo?
I guess everyone other then myself and olf are lucky enough not to hit holes or rocks that you cannot see. I know I can not be hard on my equipment because can't afford to be. But sometimes things happen!!!!!
I see what you're saying there's no way that is going to follow the ground if it goes over a dip you're going to miss hay and if you go over a little hump it's going to try to plow dirt I believe you could probably set that up better than the company you might have something there with some type of shock but a shock merely slows down the speed of travel too stiff of a shock won't let it move fast enough and too loose will let it bounce I can't wait till you modify it I'm waiting
You must have had the pick up lower stops too low if the wheel is smaller than the hole it's going to try and push it down not up and it's gunna bend things not float also try looking what your doing!
I never enjoy spending a bunch of money on new equipment and then have it bend or break before it should, seems all manufacturers need a little more r and d before releasing new equipment
Hi from Brasil I was thinking if that baller has a compressor why you don't run a air line thru in especific important parts of a machine so don't colect some dust,blow unce a wille to keep the nottin parts clean jusy wandering culd be a idea sorry for my bad englshe.Blass you all .
Why would Krone want the pickup to ride so heavy that you can't even lift it by hand. That's understandable why your height float wheel arms are bending. Sure would like to hear their explanation unless they just put the wrong springs in.
Like the wedge, did that once or twice myself. What camera do you use, and which tractor has given you better service the 7210 or 7410, 2 or 4 wheel drive? Looking at buying one.
You have nice machines but i would cleaner that's why dam things are binding up and working harder you should try to do that once a week you'll a big difference the John deer is cleaner except one thingto blow the. grass of it cause i some farm shows that tractors look cleaner and probably works probably better
Nice pidgin, proof read your post before you hit the fucking reply button, and have a look at the videos where they show the morning maintenance prior to going to work.
Wesley if you clean the hay out balierit might also work right that way also won't double duty. But if you make it a Friday or Saturday to clean your machines things might also work right
I don't think these people have a clue what a hours worth of hay going through a machine does to the appearance of it. Dust and chaff just consume the machines
spring looks to be too close to the pivot point, needs to be moved forward to provide more lift. Not an expert by any means, just seems like simple logic would go a long way here
You know what I love about your channel are repairs.
I an not a farmer, but I repair things for a living and I enjoy getting new ideas when I watch your repairs
Same. And I liked the idea of using a car strut instead of the rigid height selector.
i would adjust float springs so a pull on the header to lift it was 100 pounds so it could foat with the ground and would only have 100 pounds on the wheels..or more but i see alot of thread on the spring and not much gap in the coil of the spring so i would think it could be adjusted so there isnt as much poundage on the head sitting on the ground so when you hit a hole it wont try to plow up the ground with the header because it will float over the hole...so im guessing..
Jason Ross I agree
Jason Ross I
Evening Wes I don't know about krone but Claas balers are set to ride on the stops and the caster wheels are there if there is an obstacle to ride over ,lumps in the field much like how you have set your Baler up now but as you said it's frustrating when it's leaving hay behind on the ground
The Krone Big X has a different pickup wheel setup on the grass head. The pickup wheels are support both sides rather than on a spindle like the big pack baler pickup wheels are.
The Claas 'Dual purpose and harvest transport' wagon(8300-8500 models) has hydraulic suspension as an option on the grass pickup.
The Krone forage wagon has a hydraulically driven pick up which has a lot of movement' angle.
The Krone big pack baler probably has rear guide wheels as an option for the pickup. But the guide wheels could be more a hindrance than help.
Personally I would see where some back up support (adjustable) chains can be added so the Krone bigpack baler's pickup can never be 'dropped' (into field holes) if the 'clip pin retained' adjusters ever fall off.
I know at least somebody today is going to say "that's because your too rough on you equipment!!"
That`s because that gemans didn`t design it right ;). No, maybe Krone can help you advise how to set it.
That's BS. Just an excuse, for way too many millenials.
mlemmon923 that because you going too rough
mlemmon923 haha
Thanks Wes, for the movies.
Excellent 4960 videos, I watched all seventeen of them, I wish I had that type of knowledge you have You, Coton top and logger wade man you young men can work on that heavy equipment that 4960 she's a beauty and a beast I did feel very sad and mad on one of your 4960 videos about a troll trolling you and your family. When people hate on you, It because you've got something they want. Never let anyone dictate how you feel.
PIVOT! PIVOT! PIVOT! anybody remember that Friends episode lol!
You could move the float springs farther out toward the front of the baler to increase the amount of torque it exerts on the pivot point.
The both support wheels where bent, from the Krone bailer 🚜🚜🚜🚜🚜 right Tim, very nice belt Tim 😲😲😲😲😂😜😛😜😂😜😛😜😂😜😛
My personal thinking is that Krone is one of the most ridged and strongly built balers, they will last forever in Europe's perfect prepared fields, in the harsh USA fields like yours the JD Big Balers might have elimanted that problem already,
hi good vidio, I think putting shock absorbers on the wheels would let the pickup plough into the ground more , what you need is more spring tension, looks like those springs have no more adjustment hence the Grey area.
Yes the incline plane is a wonderful useful idea
Hydraulic float control would be awesome that's kind of an old style setup for such an advanced baler
yup memory stress strain.remove in reverse order u be good. u need some anchor pots in floor portipower chain unlimited angles and heights. so u are a frame straightner too
thanks for the video Mr.wes.... if you are going to operate it I will brake no matter who you are or how well you take care of it
It would be real easy to get a set of adjustable coilover struts from eBay and replace that stiffening bar.
not badly bent at all . just a slight strain , with all the rented land that you farm you are going to have to live with these things as you never know what the fields are like .
also that was designed in germany where the fields are like snooker tables .
fully agree with you that it could have been better designed .
you don't adjust those blocks based on the gauge wheels you adjust them to the height of your pickup teeth to the ground, usually around a inch and a half, then you can adjust the height of your gauge wheels, on level ground they shouldn't hit the ground, should be a half inch higher and they must be rigid so it raises your pickup head out of the way, putting shock into the gauge wheels will just drive your teeth into the ground
Think you should leave it alone. After all you said it your self: it is under a warranty. Just set it so that it works and remember how it was with New Holland. :D
I'm sure you do this, but perhaps the float valve isn't letting it ride correctly ( putting too much pressure on the pickup ) there should be a way of putting a bit of pressure to take a bit more weight with the ram that's there. We used to put little knob adjusters in hydraulic lines on our timber harvester heads to easily adjust the flow on certain Rams.
it doesn't that much time to clean the grass out or blow it if you don't have time let Carl or Timothy do that's not hard to I'm sure that's other farmers do it i see them clean after the get done and every time i see there video's there machines are cleaner than yours
In general , the reputation of krone in Europ is : massif looking machines with slight construction .
welcome back Mr. Tim!
Crazy how big machinery can be so fickle at times, tire stops spinning, pick up header jams etc. It's insane to think about. That's why it's best to examine the small shit first.
Those wheels should have some sort of suspension help. A simple spring arrangement to take the shock events while in use.
Those brackets might have bent when the tire blew out. I believe you said the machine rose up then crashed down when the tire let go. To be honest when I saw that video the pick-up head wheel on the left side looked out-of-whack then. Might have also just been wear and tear going over furrows.
Your correct the head is too heavy for the frame that holds the wheel. The frame that holds the wheel should not bend like that. I doubt that they would reduce the weight.
I don't think that any available spring will work were it is, the location for the spring mount on the head should be farther toward pickup section of head.
A shock would help, but you should not allow the head hit the ground.
I do have an Agricultural Engineering degree if that helps.
I've had to fix my pick up gauge wheels more than once on my baler because of badger and gopher holes. Damn pests
some one had probably said this but maybe what the frame work for the wheel needs to be beefed up.some how it seemes to me if it has bent once before and you can bend it back with some blocking and a bar to fix then no matter where u set it its going to bend again. if u carry to high its probably going to leave hay behind in spots again. just my 2 cents good luck wes
here come the trolls," Wes is abusing the equipment..."
soaringtractor that's what your here for
soaringtractor I must ask. Are you even a farmer? And if so what do you grow and how many Acer's? just asking!
kappersjohn he couldnt grow peach fuzz
soaringtractor your an idiot obviously you don't like Wes, his content, or anything about this channel so leave. I don't like basketball or golf so I don't watch them and I don't go to ESPN and give them a hard time about showing them.
no one here needs or wants your opinion.
to help you to understand LOL!!!!!!!! OMG!!!!!!!! HUH!!!!!!!!! DUUUUHHHH!!!!!!!!! LOL!!!!!!!! and a few ;'-%+!';*+"+!';"-*--+"+!!!!!!??? since you like talking like a 12 year old girl maybe this will help you LOL!!!!!!!!HUH!!!!!! DUUUHHHHH!!!!!!!!?
Wes Looking at the right hand stop the teeth are striped. The weight of the header has striped the stop. I feel Krone could do a much better design on the header lift and height control.
yah it seems something is missing, not sure if you could just adjust that spring or if they have a HD version.... but yah it does need to contour the ground better without crushing the wheels.... and you can't exactly change the contour of your ground to be easier on the baler lolz.... nor can you just not bother to care if it picks up all your hay or gouges the ground
Come on Krone. Don't let a 'lonley farmer' make you look bad.
Looks like the springs are tightened all the way. You should try some shorter or stronger springs to reduce the pressure from the header on the ground.
NoC qqq
Up rate the float springs to take the weight.
Great video Wes
thanks for the video wes
Maybe you could swap those spring with some stronger springs to reduce the weight of the pickup on those wheels.
The spring is a way to light.
I drive a Krone Big Pack 1290 HDP XC and it's not meant that the wheels should touch the ground, they must be just above the ground and only touch the ground if the pickup is about to hitting a bump.
i called the dealer and they also instructed me to float the header.
this channel is so interesting
if i spent. that. kind. of money. ona piece. of equipment. i would abuse. i to love your videos
You can't put a shock where you're talking about. The connection between that wheel and the header has to be solid. If the wheel can move separate from the header it would not keep the header out of the ground. The only way to fix the problem is to lighten the load on the tires. Either that spring was not the right spec on the drawing board or its faulty from the supplier. You're either going to have to get a heavier spring or put another one closer to the front of the pickup. Just my two cents, if it's even worth that.
Do you leave your pickup remote valve in float while baling? If not the hydraulics maybe stopping the pickup from lifting.
If you look at the hydraulic cylinder for the lift you will see that it has a yoke that allows about 3" of up travel. Which would be around 8" of wheel travel up to allow float for uneven ground.
hogcat... well spotted. There is definitely something seriously wrong with either the setup or the design then, makes no sense that the head cannot float above and below the mean ground level without breaking it's self up. I would still say it would need to be in float though, 8" of free travel would be nothing in a normal field situation. If you think of it if the baler drops into a hole as the pickup hits a lump then that only leaves 4" of travel in each direction which is nothing. Maybe Wes runs it in float and there is another issue but it's just a thought.
You would think there was more of a slot on the end of that cylinder as a some woodchuck hole mounds can be really high. If you set a minimum height using the cylinder like to go over an obstacle you would still want it to be able to go up in the air a fair amount in case you misjudge the obstacle you are trying to go over or in case something jams up under the pickup. Biggest problem is the springs are to small. I would set that adjustable block one position below lever so the pickup can still go down a little but not to far if you hit a big hole.
With the cylinder on there like it is it seems you need to put the scv in float to allow the header to float. Maybe this is why the gauge wheel support axle is bending. Maybe read the manual?
you should of just found the hole you hit and then go fast in reverse, hit the hole and hopefully the thing would go back to normal unbent shape.
good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The float spring is at a mechanical disadvantage. Need to move it further out.
I would leave it at its old position and let a little air out of the tires. but that's just my opinion. I may be wrong but I would tried that first. Wes
Triceps in that thumbnail damn
Could you set height on the rigidity bar, that you can't lift? Pulling the safety pin and adjusting the height with hydraulic and pinning back? Sincere video, as always.
I don't think your float springs are doing anything. I would be checking that the rams raising and lowering the pickup are controlled by a spool that can be set in a float position, so that the springs can move. I would setting those blocks a tad lower so that the pickup can dip down as needed. The fact that both the wheels attachment were bent suggests it needs better setting up for sure. All the best.
Wes it seems to me that the springs are mounted to far rear towards the pivot point causing the springs to have to lift 4x the weight to be effective.
Great video. Did you think about repleacing the spring with heavier springs, maybe even shorter ones ?
I think I would try to get a couple of stronger float springs....
Wes is the ram on the pick up, 2 way acting or single acting? Would it be worthwhile considering putting the spool valve in the tractor to the "float " position? Putting the spool valve into "float" position the pick up may follow ground contours including going over holes, washways etc with out causing damage to you're baler.
Why not do a air bag system since you have air on the baller already
hi wes ,could you not use the spool that lifts the header and adjust the pressure down to 5 or 10% so it is giving the spring some help but pressure low enough not to raise header
Could you install a shorter float spring with a longer eye bolt for more flotation and adjust-ability?
at 8:32 (left side of machine) adjuster teeth are "normal"... at 10:59 right side if machine) adjuster teeth are all misaligned, possibly the pin that holds it is bent also? Reason for the pin not going in?
i think the rams are single acting so there's no way he can push down on the pick up with hydraulic pressure from the spool, why do every one think they know best and say clean it down there a joke, keep up the good work wes & take no notice of the *wats
Since the field is a little softer than pavement would you want to set the adjuster down a notch? Just asking? Also it looked like the adjuster was messed up a little, maybe that's why the pin wouldn't go in easy.
Maybe a heavier duty spring to replace oem one.
Doesn't look like there is much room in there but is there enough room to double up the springs? Maybe mount another spring besides the ones that are there?
im sure you will figure something out wes.....
Them damned critters!! In the fields that bore holes and shit in the ground and make mounds of dirt N crap allover are to blame and damn hard on stuff to! Not WES!
yup needs struts for sure
Hi Wes, would you or somebody be able to explain to me the "Blue" tank is this like an added mixture to burn off the carbons of the exhuast flow when the fumes come out of the turbo?
I guess everyone other then myself and olf are lucky enough not to hit holes or rocks that you cannot see. I know I can not be hard on my equipment because can't afford to be. But sometimes things happen!!!!!
Does your big mowers run the cut hay thru any type of crushing rollers to get the water out of the stems so it dries quicker?
Wes try a Claas Quadrant on demonstration, bulitproof baler!
Did you see the new John Deere 1 series big baler? Looks like a Krone.
why not put accumulators on the cilinders for the pickupheader?
Need a shock so it can travel over gopher holes better float design
oh my god he put a belt on
PUT A 3/8 INCH SPACER BETWEEN THE PIVOT PEN
But does onelonleyfarmer put the hydraulics for the header in float or in neutral? I run everything in float.
put air bags on it wes that way you can adjust it easaly
yup lot more woodchuck holes apearing this year. nobody shoots em anymore.
I see what you're saying there's no way that is going to follow the ground if it goes over a dip you're going to miss hay and if you go over a little hump it's going to try to plow dirt I believe you could probably set that up better than the company you might have something there with some type of shock but a shock merely slows down the speed of travel too stiff of a shock won't let it move fast enough and too loose will let it bounce I can't wait till you modify it I'm waiting
You must have had the pick up lower stops too low if the wheel is smaller than the hole it's going to try and push it down not up and it's gunna bend things not float also try looking what your doing!
I never enjoy spending a bunch of money on new equipment and then have it bend or break before it should, seems all manufacturers need a little more r and d before releasing new equipment
Now that they bent once they are going to bend again. Something else will have to be done.
Can you tighten the float springs up?
Has Krone already come up with a solution to this problem?
Hi from Brasil I was thinking if that baller has a compressor why you don't run a air line thru in especific important parts of a machine so don't colect some dust,blow unce a wille to keep the nottin parts clean jusy wandering culd be a idea sorry for my bad englshe.Blass you all .
Needs a nitrogen canister on the lift cylinders
Why would Krone want the pickup to ride so heavy that you can't even lift it by hand. That's understandable why your height float wheel arms are bending. Sure would like to hear their explanation unless they just put the wrong springs in.
Do you think Krone will see this and do something?
May have already been mentioned, but can you run your hydralics in float?
Do you run the hydraulics for the pick up on float?
Put a heavier spring in?
Like the wedge, did that once or twice myself. What camera do you use, and which tractor has given you better service the 7210 or 7410, 2 or 4 wheel drive? Looking at buying one.
WES WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO THE 4320? NEVER SEE YOU USE IT..
You have nice machines but i would cleaner that's why dam things are binding up and working harder you should try to do that once a week you'll a big difference the John deer is cleaner except one thingto blow the. grass of it cause i some farm shows that tractors look cleaner and probably works probably better
Donald Heddy how about daily before I go to the field.
Nice pidgin, proof read your post before you hit the fucking reply button, and have a look at the videos where they show the morning maintenance prior to going to work.
Wesley if you clean the hay out balierit might also work right that way also won't double duty. But if you make it a Friday or Saturday to clean your machines things might also work right
Donald Heddy so I take a baler right out of the field to do a repair and wow 😳 I never clean it
I don't think these people have a clue what a hours worth of hay going through a machine does to the appearance of it. Dust and chaff just consume the machines
I broke a shaft on a krone tedder from hitting a sink hole
you would figure these bailers come with a manual to show how to adjust them.
A bigger diameter tire would not drop down into a hole as far.
spring looks to be too close to the pivot point, needs to be moved forward to provide more lift. Not an expert by any means, just seems like simple logic would go a long way here