Good job. I just wish you specified more on the rear cylinders valve clearance for those who don't have a service manual as myself. Loved how clean you got the engine before delivering to the customer also. Good job
Thank you very much for showing me so many things about my motorcycle. I have a 2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 need some work. it's a project bike for me and let me tell you you make it seem so easy. I thank you very much. hopefully I'll have my bike running perfectly by April
I like watching all of your videos. Very informative and very helpful. When I reinstall Spark plugs try using a clear or black tubing that fit's around the top of the plug. The plug can still be installed. This way the spark plug gap will not change from dropping the plug in. The tubing also works to get the plus started and when it's time to tighten the plug you won't need a spark plug socket the has the rubber to get a snug fit. Then you can remove the socket without pliers. It works on cars that has the same recest plug holes.
Great video. One thing I would change is when installing the plugs I use rubber hose around the plug tip to prevent the spark plug electrode changing the gap. The use the socket to screw the plug into place. Again All of your videos are in my Library.
@@retrotechandelectronics yes I put a rubber tubing stuck onto the tip of the plug. I carefully thread the plug in. Then when the plug is partially threaded I remove the tubing then tighten the plug with a socket minus the rubber insert of the socket adapter
Great video, saved my ass. I went to adjust the front cylinder. Put it in TDC, and the intake rocket barely moved, and the exhaust didn't budge. Same on the rear cylinder. Thought I was doing something wrong, but nope, the bike just desperately needed a V-job.
THANKYOU for this extremely helpful video. I just completed a valve lash adjustment and my 1100 V-Star fired right up! Only thing is I do hear a very slight "PFTT" or "Popping" sound coming through the exhaust. If it is a backfire it is NOT a loud one at all...it's more like a soft sounding misfire...
Put your hand on the end of the exhaust pipe when you start it. Check for suction. Should just be a steady beat pushing your hand away. If there's suction, valves are worn and need re worked and replaced. I have suction on my #2 head , just got the bike with 20 thousand miles. They made it run with a major vacuum leak. I'm adjusting the valves today. Good luck to me and you.
I used your oilchange video before and now I used this video to adjust the valves. Very detailed video. Thanks! I have a BT 1100 Yamaha but it has the same engine with the same specs.
You make THE best videos... I hate sitting through blah blah blah... you put the good info, no BS, love it. If I ever buy another type of bike, I'll have to buy you one too, just for the videos!! haha
Be sure to plug up the "hell holes" at the back of the motor with rags so you don't drop your bolts down into them and then get to spend an hour dismantling the transmission cover, etc looking for them.
Hi from Aust Want to say a huge thanks for this clip. It's so helpful I have an 06 with only 10K on the clock but this needs to be checked. The price mechanics charge is way too much & I'm not working - this is a huge help Thanks
An easy way to start threading the spark plugs is using a 3-4" piece of fuel line tight enough to grip the end of the plug. After it is started, pull it off and finish with the plug socket without the rubber insert. Easy peasy.
thank you verry much for the valuable information on your videos verry eazy to understand. beeing i two ouwn a yamaha vstar the have been verry helpfull in me survecing my own motorcycle . again thank you verry much sir.
I'm doing most the stuff you make videos for and im very thankful, oil change, spark plugs, gasket changes I'm confused on this feeling tool there's two sets of numbers for example top number .004 bottom number .102 it has mm under the bottom ( I'm pretty sure I bought the millimeter only)
Had someone replace the starter and immediately after I lost the back cylinder. It runs but its cold. Im pretty sure the timing is off by 180 degrees. Thanks for this greta video
your videos are the best online, thank you for being perfectly explained in detail. i have my front cylinder running hotter than the rear. any suggestions ? 2003 yamaha v star 1100
The first time I checked the valves on my 1100, being green about motorcycles, I went through all that nonsense with cam covers and timing marks. First of all those marks may or may not line up so that method is less than precision. Having used the ICEO (intake closed, exhaust open) method on my race engines for years I did it that way and it's just as applicable to this 4 stroke engine as it is to all others. KISS
The marks as prescribed tell you when the valve is closed and not under tension. What precision beyond that were you expecting exactly? Its closed, or it isn't. Are you saying the removal of the two screws that remove the side cover that allow for a visual aid is not a simple task? Or the fact that the engine has to be rotated anyway it is not simple to align the TDC mark when doing so?
@@retrotechandelectronics "Its closed, or it isn't." One must assure the cam follower is on the base circle and not on a portion of the entry or exit ramps of the lobe. "... is not a simple task?" I'm saying it's an unnecessary procedure, that waste time and adds complexity for the novice, and carries the potential for an oil leak. By the way, my KISS reference was not aimed at you, but rather at the Yamaha engineers. Your video was very good and an admiral public service, thank you.
Potential for an oil leak by way of what? Are you referring to the side cover removal? Could they spin it TDC twice and see which one allows play at the tappet, I guess thats a possibility too....
@@retrotechandelectronics "It's closed, or it isn't". Not that simple, as most things in life. Cam lobes have clearance ramps, sometime called lash ramps. You have opening and closing ramps. The point is to be on the base circle of the lobe and not on any portion of the ramps. Removing the covers are needlessly time consuming and messy and may cause the need to source and purchase o-ring gaskets.
Amazing video thanks. I will refer to it many times this weekend when doing my valves... The printed clearances on your video (.45 seconds in) are incorrect though. The Exhaust valve clearance should read 0.12 - 0.17 (.0047-.0067). From my Clymer V Star shop manual
Too tight can be worse than too loose, stopping the valves from fully closing and if really bad hitting a piston, though that would be an incredible feat.
@@retrotechandelectronics Thanks for the reply. I'm a bit confused. How would too tight cause it to hit a piston? Wouldn't too LOOSE cause that, since it's exceeding the proper clearance and risks touching the piston?
Hi, you have a great videos for XVS 1100 maintenance, thanks. I have an XVS 1100 from 2005, and I have in trouble with it. Vibrations appears when I reach 60 Km/h, and at 80 Km/h, motor go down, and sounds like fuel failure and vibrations are very strong. Any suggestion? Thanks
Thank you for this video. I started the project today and unfortunately I've had to adjust all of four valves. One thing I am questioning is that when I got a head to TDC, there was hardly any free play at all at the arms. I spun the crankshaft several times to make sure I was there.
Doing this on my 2008 VStar 650 Custom. I removed the side cover off the rear cylinder and rotated the fly wheel until I saw the "TI" with the "I" right in the notch. However when I do that and I look at the sprocket with the side cover off the dot is to the left of the tab. It's not lined up? Have I discovered a major mechanical problem, or should I just adjust based on the TI marking?
I have a similar problem in that my cam sprocket is not displaying perfect TDC (as evidenced by the indent not being aligned with the point) while my crank witness is displaying TDC. The difference is slight but what measure do I use to adjusted the valve clearance?
I'm back. After your video help me take carb off and clean it successfully I have since devolped a new pinging ticky noise like something is loose in my engine. Some suggestions were value checks and tightening as your doing. You do such a good job explaining everything with great camera work. My question is if my problem is loose value causing noise will it eventually wist all the way off and destroy engines or riding it with ticking loose value is annoying but won't damagine engine. Would appreciate a response if you know anwser. Thanks
The valves are supposed to make a light tapping noise at full temp. Though the best way to know is to measure. I don’t hear of them flying off for no reason.
Hi Mr. retro I have a Yamaha V*1102000 and when I give it gas it goes and then it like he doesn’t want to go I’d like it just makes a loud noise and it doesn’t go in till I go to the next year if I go to first and then it does it again do you think by adjusting the chain that would take care of the problem
Thanks for the great video. I have a 2007 v star classic and need to change the cam chain tensioner gaskets " leaking oil". I see on your video how to line up the markers 0n the front sprocket along with the one by the gear shiftier. This would place pistons in the highest position i believe to help from dropping. My question is there a way i should place a block of some type to secure it from moving while removing and resetting cam tensioners? or if lining up makers to be sufficient. a service tech said this was part of the process but i"m unable to locate any info in regards to blocking the sprockets. Thanks for your help in advance.
Nice work! What is the normal axial gap between rocker arm and the head? Mine is about 0.24mm and there is some knocking on the hot engine. That really makes me angry. I think to instal washers from inox 0.12mm. What do you think? Greethings from Bulgaria!
I've got a knock in my 1100 Silverado. Too expensive to have done, so I gotta tear it down myself, I guess. I'd like to run it off the bike on a stand, but don't know how to set that up. Can't even find a decent book on the thing. The factory manual that i do have has specs that are mislabeled with decimals in the wrong place, etc. I need a junk engine to practice on.
Quick question. I didn't notice you rotate to the different TDC after doing the first cylinder. Aren't there 2 different TDCs? I'm using this video to do my first valve adjustment.
Two questions: 1) do you need to drain the oil when doing this. And 2) where did you purchase the tool to check the valve clearance, and what's the name of it. Thanks
Would you say this job could be done without removing the carbs? I’m thinking I will need to check the ones on the Vstar I just bought sometime soon. Has only about 13,000 miles but still. Just curious if the carbs could stay in for this procedure. Your videos are so helpful! thank you!!
Don't adjust the pilot screws. They only meter air, at idle. Check the air filter first to see if it's dirty. Replace or clean it, if it is. Main jets meter fuel at about 3/4 to full throttle. Unlikely to need changing unless they have been replaced for a different size.
This has nothing to to with the PMS, you have other issues, like I said, and as ron said below if you have no air filter restriction, your carbs may be fouled.
For the record! The valve clearances given at :40 are mathematically incorrect. The figures for the Intake valve are right. The figures for the Exhaust valve are not. 0.12mm = 0.0047in (Not 0.0028in) 0.17mm = 0.0067in (Not 0.0047in)
Hello hope is all well with you and your Family. Can you do or have you done a video on clutch replacement on a Yamaha vstar classic 1100 ? I have found some but they are not as good as your step by step instructions and the way you notify what might happen if you do or don't do that Thanks Dale
I love your videos, you do a fantastic job. However using the first valve you adjusted as an example... The tolerance is between 0.07 & 0.16 this shows there is a considerable range here, before you made the adjustment you demonstrated that 0.07 was lose and 0.10 was just a little tight. that means this valve was at approx. 0.09 and well within spec. loosening and resetting the adjustment bolt that could very well be as it was set from the factory is ill advised. I've seen this time and time again in videos and in forums and I have never once seen an account of the valves actually being out of spec. When they set them at the factory they set them within spec, not perfectly in the middle because it isn't necessary. The whole idea of constantly needed valve adjustments is largely a scam perpetuated by dealerships to take your money. When your valves are out to any significant degree you will know it, your bike will run like sh*#!
Hey thanks so much for posting this video. It has helped me to conceptually understand how to adjust my valves. I have a question if you wouldn't mind responding. I have a 2008 V Star 1300. After removing the Front Exhaust Tappet cover I found what appears to be twin tappets.... I think I am seeing 2 tappets under each of the four tappet covers. Should I just do my best to adjust them both to the service manual specs? Any help welcome.
I was told I have a bent valve on the front cylinder because the timing was off and someone kept running it, are these the valves they are talking about, and do you know which one it would be?
@@retrotechandelectronics thank you, I was wondering what they had meant. Could I replace the valve from where you were showing them, under the cover plates?
I looked at your homepage and I see you have done a teardown on an older Harley. Do you find working on this Yamaha more or less difficult than the Harley? I remember years ago the price of replacement parts were less expensive for Harleys than for the metric bikes but in my experience that has changed to the opposite. What have you found in that regard? BTW from your photo I assume you had your electronics training in the Navy. Were you brown shoe or black shoe Navy? I was an AT many years ago and went to "A" school at Millington.
Thank you for such a detailed video. I have one question though. I have pretty much same bike, the screw you removed with a quarter, the previous previous owner applied a cement to hold it in place. There's a good chance I'm going to have to break it but I need a replacement at the ready when I do. By what name do I search for such a specific piece?
I did not want to take a chance with a quarter, therefore I bought a tool today from Motionpro.com to remove the bolt from my vstar 650. It is called: "Timing Plug Wrench".
Retro Tech & Electronics Thank you for you two cents. I’ve searched eBay and they are inexpensive but I’m not finding any that can claim to fit my bike. I guess the next option would be to try the dealer.
Good video. However I notice when checking the 1st exhaust valve, you were slightly forcing the valve up with the feeler gauge. The clearance you measured wasn’t accurate. And you would flip between imperial and metric when mentioning the feeler gauge measurements. Confusing to some. This is a metric bike. I would stick to metric measurements. And it’s not 10 or 17, it’s .010 mm and .017 mm. I never pull covers off without having new o-rings to replace. That’s my “policy”.
@@retrotechandelectronics instead of a coin. Why not spot weld a washer to an old screwdriver shank/shaft? Instead of a flat slot driver you've got the perfect half moon driver.
@@truethought2581 Because its a plasrichrome cover with a rubber o ring having just a few ft/lbs of torque, all a driver would do is allow for the strength to mar it or break it, possibly throwing plastic pieces in the case, when such a tool isnt even needed.
@@retrotechandelectronics did you use a screwdriver to open it? Kinda what I saw. Just saying, instead of the straight slot. You'd have an screwdriver with a radial head.... sorry I replied. Obviously you're the expert. I'll sit quietly here..... trust me when I say... youll never have to hear my dumb ass advice....
At "3.18" you line up to the dash (not the "T"), then at "!0.22" you line up to the "T" (not the dash). Why is that? Should they both be lined up to the "T". I'm guessing the "T" is for Top Dead Center!
Subscribed. I haven't seen any activity recently, But, I noticed you have aftermarket pipes. I bought this bike with Cobra pipes, and they gave me the originals. The bike backfires all the time. I have resorted to putting back on the OME pipes. Do you have any suggestions on whats successful in the carbs, jet or mixing screws wise?
Hi, @Andrew Blodgett I got side tracked... No, I don't even know what a AIS system is. But yes, it backfires only on deceleration. Very faint, I hear backfires still. A sort of rumbling of back firings. What is AIS?
I've gone through all that ridiculous cover removal BS. And it's less than precise anyway. A camshaft is a camshaft is a camshaft. I check it just like I always have my drag car engines. It's the ICEO method. It works every time. If it works on long duration, long overlap racing cams it will work on the mild cams in an 1100. So save you self some needless time, energy and heartburn.
Telling people that you should employ the ICEO method instead of using the supplied position indicators designed by the manufacturer and incorporated in the manual is an invitation to tell owners how to break their engines and begs the question why a person who allegedly builds drag engines needs to watch videos on adjusting valve timing. Hmmmmm....
@@retrotechandelectronics Firstly, I was watching a video on setting valve lash, not valve timing. I know you have read the Yamaha manual. It states the marks may not line up exactly. So it's a less than precise process but certainly protracted. The ICEO works every time on every application if done correctly, and it's easy to do correctly. There are other tried and true methods, but when you're dealing with 2 cylinders it's pretty straight forward. Bottom line, you want the cam follower (lifter) on the base circle when you adjust it. Any method that gets you there is fine but why not use one that is accurate and easy?
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This guy is the single biggest reason why my vstar is running great right now
5 years later this video is still golden. Top notch Retro, top notch.
Thank you sir
Thank you for taking the time to create this video. The time, money, and stress you are saving your viewers is huge.
Glad I could help
Picked up an 05 1100, how you present your videos are excellent and easy to follow, thank you for what you do
Glad to help
Watched and used multiple videos of yours and just wanted to say thank you
Glad they helped! You’re welcome.
Nice and clear tutorial with good balance. I like how you keep it clean and re-hook the chrome as you go. Well done Retro.
Thank you sir, glad you enjoyed it.
Good job. I just wish you specified more on the rear cylinders valve clearance for those who don't have a service manual as myself. Loved how clean you got the engine before delivering to the customer also. Good job
This may be 4 years old but, THANK YOU! This video is FK"N AWESOME!!! I appreciate you!
Perhaps 4 years old but the procedure hasn't aged a day.
Just got a 650 v Star while back n you are the go to man for info. I trust, thank you for all your vids about v Star maintenance 👍
Glad to help
Excellent video! Thank you very much for taking the time to be so thorough in explaining and filming.
You're very welcome!
Another well executed tutorial!
Will be following this when I swap out my carbs this week.
Outstanding, let me know how it turns out.
Thank you very much for showing me so many things about my motorcycle. I have a 2003 Yamaha V Star 1100 need some work. it's a project bike for me and let me tell you you make it seem so easy. I thank you very much. hopefully I'll have my bike running perfectly by April
Your welcome, have fun!
I like watching all of your videos. Very informative and very helpful. When I reinstall Spark plugs try using a clear or black tubing that fit's around the top of the plug. The plug can still be installed. This way the spark plug gap will not change from dropping the plug in. The tubing also works to get the plus started and when it's time to tighten the plug you won't need a spark plug socket the has the rubber to get a snug fit. Then you can remove the socket without pliers. It works on cars that has the same recest plug holes.
A rubber hose is also a good trick to seat the spark plugs.
Great video. One thing I would change is when installing the plugs I use rubber hose around the plug tip to prevent the spark plug electrode changing the gap. The use the socket to screw the plug into place. Again All of your videos are in my Library.
Are you saying you use this instead of a socket wrench with the rubber insert inside of it?
@@retrotechandelectronics yes I put a rubber tubing stuck onto the tip of the plug. I carefully thread the plug in. Then when the plug is partially threaded I remove the tubing then tighten the plug with a socket minus the rubber insert of the socket adapter
Great video, saved my ass. I went to adjust the front cylinder. Put it in TDC, and the intake rocket barely moved, and the exhaust didn't budge. Same on the rear cylinder. Thought I was doing something wrong, but nope, the bike just desperately needed a V-job.
Yeah, valves too tight can cause all sorts of problems...
THANKYOU for this extremely helpful video. I just completed a valve lash adjustment and my 1100 V-Star fired right up! Only thing is I do hear a very slight "PFTT" or "Popping" sound coming through the exhaust. If it is a backfire it is NOT a loud one at all...it's more like a soft sounding misfire...
carbs next!
Put your hand on the end of the exhaust pipe when you start it. Check for suction. Should just be a steady beat pushing your hand away. If there's suction, valves are worn and need re worked and replaced. I have suction on my #2 head , just got the bike with 20 thousand miles. They made it run with a major vacuum leak. I'm adjusting the valves today. Good luck to me and you.
I’m having trouble getting mine all timed up and this seems to be the best clip to me
Hello Jordan. Thanks for the video. This is my project for today. I have a Yamaha Virago 1100 but you gave me a good overview.
I remember the virago well. Very similar.
I used your oilchange video before and now I used this video to adjust the valves. Very detailed video. Thanks! I have a BT 1100 Yamaha but it has the same engine with the same specs.
How far off were the valves.
@@retrotechandelectronics the rear exhaustvalve was tight but within spec and the rest was about 0.05 to 0.1 mm out of spec. Glad I checked.
@@retrotechandelectronicsare all the values the same soec number 10?
Great videos. Really appreciate you putting these out there. Your whole series has been tremendously helpful. Keep up the great work!
More to come.... Tune in Fridays.... Thanks
You make THE best videos... I hate sitting through blah blah blah... you put the good info, no BS, love it. If I ever buy another type of bike, I'll have to buy you one too, just for the videos!! haha
Glad you like em'.
thank you for actually editing!
No problem!!
Be sure to plug up the "hell holes" at the back of the motor with rags so you don't drop your bolts down into them and then get to spend an hour dismantling the transmission cover, etc looking for them.
I love how your go into every detail I appreciate it
No problem.
I'm about to adjust the valves on my VSTAR 1300. This is helpful. Thanks.
No problem 👍
Love the 2 stroke exercise bike! Thanks again man, your videos are awesome.
What bike?
The peddle bike at the end of the video.
Hi from Aust Want to say a huge thanks for this clip. It's so helpful
I have an 06 with only 10K on the clock but this needs to be checked. The price mechanics charge is way too much & I'm not working - this is a huge help
Thanks
Glad it helped
Great vid, very clear instructions, good tips, nice man!
Glad it was helpful.
@retrotechandelectronics Very! thanks man.
An easy way to start threading the spark plugs is using a 3-4" piece of fuel line tight enough to grip the end of the plug. After it is started, pull it off and finish with the plug socket without the rubber insert. Easy peasy.
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you so much!
You are so welcome!
This is an absolutely fantastic video. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful.
Great video. Very good detail
thank you verry much for the valuable information on your videos verry eazy to understand. beeing i two ouwn a yamaha vstar the have been verry helpfull in me survecing my own motorcycle . again thank you verry much sir.
Glad I could help.
I'm doing most the stuff you make videos for and im very thankful, oil change, spark plugs, gasket changes I'm confused on this feeling tool there's two sets of numbers for example top number .004 bottom number .102 it has mm under the bottom ( I'm pretty sure I bought the millimeter only)
Sadly yes there was some confusion about that, I believe its drawn out in the video description.
Thank you. Im pretty sure this will solve my problema
Glad it helped
Had someone replace the starter and immediately after I lost the back cylinder. It runs but its cold. Im pretty sure the timing is off by 180 degrees. Thanks for this greta video
very good instruktionvideo. Great job! and thank you!
You're welcome!
your videos are the best online, thank you for being perfectly explained in detail. i have my front cylinder running hotter than the rear. any suggestions ? 2003 yamaha v star 1100
air leaks on the manifold will cause that carb to run lean...
The first time I checked the valves on my 1100, being green about motorcycles, I went through all that nonsense with cam covers and timing marks. First of all those marks may or may not line up so that method is less than precision. Having used the ICEO (intake closed, exhaust open) method on my race engines for years I did it that way and it's just as applicable to this 4 stroke engine as it is to all others. KISS
The marks as prescribed tell you when the valve is closed and not under tension. What precision beyond that were you expecting exactly? Its closed, or it isn't. Are you saying the removal of the two screws that remove the side cover that allow for a visual aid is not a simple task? Or the fact that the engine has to be rotated anyway it is not simple to align the TDC mark when doing so?
@@retrotechandelectronics "Its closed, or it isn't." One must assure the cam follower is on the base circle and not on a portion of the entry or exit ramps of the lobe. "... is not a simple task?" I'm saying it's an unnecessary procedure, that waste time and adds complexity for the novice, and carries the potential for an oil leak. By the way, my KISS reference was not aimed at you, but rather at the Yamaha engineers. Your video was very good and an admiral public service, thank you.
Potential for an oil leak by way of what? Are you referring to the side cover removal? Could they spin it TDC twice and see which one allows play at the tappet, I guess thats a possibility too....
I think you will find these engines have a 75 degree v and having the valves on the rock may not be accurate enough
@@retrotechandelectronics "It's closed, or it isn't". Not that simple, as most things in life. Cam lobes have clearance ramps, sometime called lash ramps. You have opening and closing ramps. The point is to be on the base circle of the lobe and not on any portion of the ramps. Removing the covers are needlessly time consuming and messy and may cause the need to source and purchase o-ring gaskets.
Amazing video thanks. I will refer to it many times this weekend when doing my valves... The printed clearances on your video (.45 seconds in) are incorrect though. The Exhaust valve clearance should read 0.12 - 0.17 (.0047-.0067). From my Clymer V Star shop manual
Ive heard that before.... The shop manual of all things. Did I not correct that in the video notes?
Btw thanks for the video. just did mine. Front cylinder exhaust was in spec, but every other valve was too tight. Had to loosen and readjust to spec.
Too tight can be worse than too loose, stopping the valves from fully closing and if really bad hitting a piston, though that would be an incredible feat.
@@retrotechandelectronics Thanks for the reply. I'm a bit confused. How would too tight cause it to hit a piston? Wouldn't too LOOSE cause that, since it's exceeding the proper clearance and risks touching the piston?
@@retrotechandelectronics more chance if they're not closing properly that you burn the edge off the valve
Thanks! I would love for you to add a Carb sync video to this series.
Didn’t I?
@@retrotechandelectronics Oh Maybe I missed it, sorry.
Awesome vid. Thanks so much for this.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, you have a great videos for XVS 1100 maintenance, thanks. I have an XVS 1100 from 2005, and I have in trouble with it. Vibrations appears when I reach 60 Km/h, and at 80 Km/h, motor go down, and sounds like fuel failure and vibrations are very strong. Any suggestion? Thanks
Great video. 10 and 15 are the numbers even after rejetting and adding air intake? Also with straight pipes.
Great video! ..I would have change the o-rings in the covers, ..they seems to start leek within short time, - when they've first been removed..!
Sometimes this is true
Thanks for these awesome videos. They have helped me so much. What do you use to polish the chrome?
Maas.
Thank you for this video. I started the project today and unfortunately I've had to adjust all of four valves. One thing I am questioning is that when I got a head to TDC, there was hardly any free play at all at the arms. I spun the crankshaft several times to make sure I was there.
Hardly yes..... but a clicks worth, should be measured with the gauges to make the determination.
Doing this on my 2008 VStar 650 Custom. I removed the side cover off the rear cylinder and rotated the fly wheel until I saw the "TI" with the "I" right in the notch. However when I do that and I look at the sprocket with the side cover off the dot is to the left of the tab. It's not lined up? Have I discovered a major mechanical problem, or should I just adjust based on the TI marking?
I have a similar problem in that my cam sprocket is not displaying perfect TDC (as evidenced by the indent not being aligned with the point) while my crank witness is displaying TDC. The difference is slight but what measure do I use to adjusted the valve clearance?
Great video. Thanks
You are welcome!
Very helpful thank you
You're welcome!
I'm back. After your video help me take carb off and clean it successfully I have since devolped a new pinging ticky noise like something is loose in my engine. Some suggestions were value checks and tightening as your doing. You do such a good job explaining everything with great camera work. My question is if my problem is loose value causing noise will it eventually wist all the way off and destroy engines or riding it with ticking loose value is annoying but won't damagine engine. Would appreciate a response if you know anwser. Thanks
The valves are supposed to make a light tapping noise at full temp. Though the best way to know is to measure. I don’t hear of them flying off for no reason.
thank you verry much for the videos verry helpfull.thank you agin!!!!!!
Glad to hear you found it to be helpful.
Hi Mr. retro I have a Yamaha V*1102000 and when I give it gas it goes and then it like he doesn’t want to go I’d like it just makes a loud noise and it doesn’t go in till I go to the next year if I go to first and then it does it again do you think by adjusting the chain that would take care of the problem
Allternatively you can put the bike in high-gear to rotate the engine
Thanks for the great video. I have a 2007 v star classic and need to change the cam chain tensioner gaskets " leaking oil". I see on your video how to line up the markers 0n the front sprocket along with the one by the gear shiftier. This would place pistons in the highest position i believe to help from dropping. My question is there a way i should place a block of some type to secure it from moving while removing and resetting cam tensioners? or if lining up makers to be sufficient. a service tech said this was part of the process but i"m unable to locate any info in regards to blocking the sprockets. Thanks for your help in advance.
Verry nice video
Thanks
Nice work! What is the normal axial gap between rocker arm and the head? Mine is about 0.24mm and there is some knocking on the hot engine. That really makes me angry. I think to instal washers from inox 0.12mm. What do you think? Greethings from Bulgaria!
So to adjust the valve am I moving the wrench or Allen wrench to adjust the valve?
The allen makes the adjustment.
I've got a knock in my 1100 Silverado. Too expensive to have done, so I gotta tear it down myself, I guess. I'd like to run it off the bike on a stand, but don't know how to set that up. Can't even find a decent book on the thing. The factory manual that i do have has specs that are mislabeled with decimals in the wrong place, etc. I need a junk engine to practice on.
Amazing
Thanks.
I was curious when your all done do you have to rotate the crank back ?
First of all outstanding video. Question for you or anyone else, would 440 cams in my 1100 change the clearances any?
Do both the front and back supposed to TDC at the same time?
Good job
Thanks.
Quick question. I didn't notice you rotate to the different TDC after doing the first cylinder. Aren't there 2 different TDCs? I'm using this video to do my first valve adjustment.
Yes, one for each cylinder.
Two questions: 1) do you need to drain the oil when doing this. And 2) where did you purchase the tool to check the valve clearance, and what's the name of it. Thanks
You do not need to drain the oil. The tool is called a feeler gauge, you can get it at any auto parts store.
Would you say this job could be done without removing the carbs? I’m thinking I will need to check the ones on the Vstar I just bought sometime soon. Has only about 13,000 miles but still. Just curious if the carbs could stay in for this procedure. Your videos are so helpful! thank you!!
I would not recommend it.
great video thanks a lot :)
You are welcome!
Hi! It is normal to find the spark plugs totally black? or I will need adjustement. Thank you!
It is not normal, you are running rich and fouling. Either the carbs are set rich or the enrichener is stuck partially open.
the enrichener is the choke? So I will need to pull off the caps and adjust the pilot needle?
Don't adjust the pilot screws. They only meter air, at idle. Check the air filter first to see if it's dirty. Replace or clean it, if it is. Main jets meter fuel at about 3/4 to full throttle. Unlikely to need changing unless they have been replaced for a different size.
This has nothing to to with the PMS, you have other issues, like I said, and as ron said below if you have no air filter restriction, your carbs may be fouled.
Does the oil need to be drained for a valve adjustment? I'm guessing no but was unsure.
No, it does not.
What’s the worse that can happen if you DONT adjust the valves?
Loss of efficiency. excessive valve stem wear, noise, dirty combustion chamber.
For the record!
The valve clearances given at :40 are mathematically incorrect.
The figures for the Intake valve are right.
The figures for the Exhaust valve are not.
0.12mm = 0.0047in (Not 0.0028in)
0.17mm = 0.0067in (Not 0.0047in)
So sure enough, the book has an error for the english measurement!!
Hello hope is all well with you and your Family. Can you do or have you done a video on clutch replacement on a Yamaha vstar classic 1100 ? I have found some but they are not as good as your step by step instructions and the way you notify what might happen if you do or don't do that Thanks Dale
No video yet, soon
@@retrotechandelectronics Thank you
You mention lining up the notch on the front and the "T" on the back. Why not line up the "T" mark on the front cylinder as well as the rear?
Im not sure what you mean.. There is a different mark for the rear... The front and rear cylinder cannot be in top dead center at the same time.
What do you call that gauge tool you are using
A feeler gauge
In the service manual stabds i have to turn the engine coubterclockwise.... is that right or wrong (i didi it)
The manual wascorrect, I displayed that wrong,
@@retrotechandelectronics thanks , i thought i did something wrong ;)
I love your videos, you do a fantastic job. However using the first valve you adjusted as an example... The tolerance is between 0.07 & 0.16 this shows there is a considerable range here, before you made the adjustment you demonstrated that 0.07 was lose and 0.10 was just a little tight. that means this valve was at approx. 0.09 and well within spec. loosening and resetting the adjustment bolt that could very well be as it was set from the factory is ill advised. I've seen this time and time again in videos and in forums and I have never once seen an account of the valves actually being out of spec. When they set them at the factory they set them within spec, not perfectly in the middle because it isn't necessary. The whole idea of constantly needed valve adjustments is largely a scam perpetuated by dealerships to take your money. When your valves are out to any significant degree you will know it, your bike will run like sh*#!
When you timed your bike in the beginning, were all three of your timing marks at their top dead center mark?
Nothing is on the mark until I move it there, and measurements aren't taken until, everything is one the mark and I can move them with my hands.
Gonna give it a look at ,got change my Intake Manifolds cause they looking bad
That can be a source of lean condition.
@@retrotechandelectronics the exhaust is popping alot decelerating..everything is still stock so got be the air box or intake boots
Hey thanks so much for posting this video. It has helped me to conceptually understand how to adjust my valves. I have a question if you wouldn't mind responding. I have a 2008 V Star 1300. After removing the Front Exhaust Tappet cover I found what appears to be twin tappets.... I think I am seeing 2 tappets under each of the four tappet covers. Should I just do my best to adjust them both to the service manual specs? Any help welcome.
What does the service manual indicate with regard to the 1300 tappet adjustment procedure?
Not certain but I think the 1300 has 4 -valves per cylinder, hence the double adjustments for each rocker arm.
I was told I have a bent valve on the front cylinder because the timing was off and someone kept running it, are these the valves they are talking about, and do you know which one it would be?
These are those valves, but no, I can’t tell you if it’s your intake or exhaust which you had bent.
@@retrotechandelectronics thank you, I was wondering what they had meant. Could I replace the valve from where you were showing them, under the cover plates?
@@capncrunchgaming5613 no, the heads will need to be removed. It is a bigger job.
@@retrotechandelectronics okay, will do
I looked at your homepage and I see you have done a teardown on an older Harley. Do you find working on this Yamaha more or less difficult than the Harley? I remember years ago the price of replacement parts were less expensive for Harleys than for the metric bikes but in my experience that has changed to the opposite. What have you found in that regard?
BTW from your photo I assume you had your electronics training in the Navy. Were you brown shoe or black shoe Navy? I was an AT many years ago and went to "A" school at Millington.
The Yamaha is far less difficult than the harley but the harley is a complete restoration project and over 40 years old.
Black shoe.
Wonderful sight on the AIS system as well ! How did you seal those little pipe joints ? Did you seal it with some heat proof silicone ?
Yes I did
When adjusting the valves, does it get rid of the famous Yamaha vstar ticking in the engine?
When set up correct, there should be a light uniform ticking when warm.
@@retrotechandelectronics mine ticks intermittently, is this good, bad or ok also?
Thank you for such a detailed video. I have one question though. I have pretty much same bike, the screw you removed with a quarter, the previous previous owner applied a cement to hold it in place. There's a good chance I'm going to have to break it but I need a replacement at the ready when I do. By what name do I search for such a specific piece?
I did not want to take a chance with a quarter, therefore I bought a tool today from Motionpro.com to remove the bolt from my vstar 650. It is called: "Timing Plug Wrench".
So if your are saying the PO possibly broke it, id recommend getting a new one before doing the job. Not expensive on ebay.
wisdom1956 Thanks for your input. I have been searching for the screw by that name and many different ones come up, none that claim to fit my bike.
Retro Tech & Electronics Thank you for you two cents. I’ve searched eBay and they are inexpensive but I’m not finding any that can claim to fit my bike. I guess the next option would be to try the dealer.
@@dakured4688 I called my Yamaha Dealer & they were able to order it for me; and promised 2 get my money back if it did not fit.
And this needs to be done every 4,000 miles?! Wtf
It needs to be done in conjunction with regular service.
@@retrotechandelectronics and this is why I've since sold my v star 1100
@@RVAMotorsports ok
what yr is this
2001
Can this be done with out removing the carbs?
Only the Exhaust values..... so no, half the job is not the job.
yes you can , there is lots of space to work
Can confirm this, as I just did all 4 valves today with the carbs on. Even with the carbs on, there is still good room to work in there.
I was looking at one of these,saw a few of these videos.no longer interested...in yamaha v star 1100
Especially with the oil thing..that's crazy
i.imgflip.com/4lkks8.jpg
Good video. However I notice when checking the 1st exhaust valve, you were slightly forcing the valve up with the feeler gauge. The clearance you measured wasn’t accurate. And you would flip between imperial and metric when mentioning the feeler gauge measurements. Confusing to some. This is a metric bike. I would stick to metric measurements. And it’s not 10 or 17, it’s .010 mm and .017 mm. I never pull covers off without having new o-rings to replace. That’s my “policy”.
I have been called out for flipping between metric and imperial. Video descriptions are being updated as a result of this for clarification.
Right right
Right. Right?
You said 4000 but the data that you were going across said 16,000 at 4 mm
4000 16000 @4mm can you be more specific or cite a time stamp?
A washer welded to an old screwdriver?
Please elaborate.
@@retrotechandelectronics instead of a coin. Why not spot weld a washer to an old screwdriver shank/shaft? Instead of a flat slot driver you've got the perfect half moon driver.
Not trying to be "that guy" but have ya given that a thought?
@@truethought2581 Because its a plasrichrome cover with a rubber o ring having just a few ft/lbs of torque, all a driver would do is allow for the strength to mar it or break it, possibly throwing plastic pieces in the case, when such a tool isnt even needed.
@@retrotechandelectronics did you use a screwdriver to open it? Kinda what I saw. Just saying, instead of the straight slot. You'd have an screwdriver with a radial head.... sorry I replied. Obviously you're the expert. I'll sit quietly here..... trust me when I say... youll never have to hear my dumb ass advice....
Just to let everyone know you may have to rotate the crank up to 10 times to get the rear cylinder to line the timing marks up.
This is unnecessary.
At "3.18" you line up to the dash (not the "T"), then at "!0.22" you line up to the "T" (not the dash). Why is that? Should they both be lined up to the "T". I'm guessing the "T" is for Top Dead Center!
Both front and rear cannot be top dead center at the same position on the crank
At 3:18, he is doing the front cylinder and there is only a dash. The T -dash is for the rear cylinder.
Subscribed. I haven't seen any activity recently, But, I noticed you have aftermarket pipes. I bought this bike with Cobra pipes, and they gave me the originals. The bike backfires all the time. I have resorted to putting back on the OME pipes. Do you have any suggestions on whats successful in the carbs, jet or mixing screws wise?
Hi, @Andrew Blodgett I got side tracked... No, I don't even know what a AIS system is. But yes, it backfires only on deceleration. Very faint, I hear backfires still. A sort of rumbling of back firings. What is AIS?
@Andrew Blodgett So is this a remedy for aftermarket exhaust and backfiring? Can this also be done with the OME pipes?
It fixed my backfiring... Thanks so much Andrew!
I’m not touching shit. I’ll let y’all know the longevity
Good luck.
Well this is an unfortunate time to realize your 22mm is too fat to fit. Got all the way to the part where we get to TDC😂 off to the store i guess
I've gone through all that ridiculous cover removal BS. And it's less than precise anyway. A camshaft is a camshaft is a camshaft. I check it just like I always have my drag car engines. It's the ICEO method. It works every time. If it works on long duration, long overlap racing cams it will work on the mild cams in an 1100. So save you self some needless time, energy and heartburn.
Telling people that you should employ the ICEO method instead of using the supplied position indicators designed by the manufacturer and incorporated in the manual is an invitation to tell owners how to break their engines and begs the question why a person who allegedly builds drag engines needs to watch videos on adjusting valve timing.
Hmmmmm....
@@retrotechandelectronics Firstly, I was watching a video on setting valve lash, not valve timing. I know you have read the Yamaha manual. It states the marks may not line up exactly. So it's a less than precise process but certainly protracted. The ICEO works every time on every application if done correctly, and it's easy to do correctly. There are other tried and true methods, but when you're dealing with 2 cylinders it's pretty straight forward. Bottom line, you want the cam follower (lifter) on the base circle when you adjust it. Any method that gets you there is fine but why not use one that is accurate and easy?
What a pain in the ass
People tell me that.