Joystick HOTAS Table Mounts DIY! [Machining Drawings + Links in Description!]
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- Thanks for watching - I hope you found this informative and fun.
These HOTAS (joystick/throttle) table mounts are very similar to those available commercially, but are built largely with off the shelf materials, and are pretty simple to put together.
For the custom machined parts, table clamp, and list of items, the links are below:
[Custom Plate Drawings]
drive.google.c...
[Table clamp amazon link]
tinyurl.com/y6...
[Parts List and costs]
docs.google.co...
I wouldn't have guessed that the clamp of all things would be the highest cost item (by far) on the shopping list. Nice work!
It's the only strictly European component. Their labour costs are insane. I mean, I am happy their people are paid a living wage - but as a consumer, waa waa wee wa...
Thanks for linking the parts and price list. very much appreciated...
Far better than most commercially available
that stuff is awesome man you even put a google doc with the price, sources etc... Thanks for the video really!
My next new project ,thanks for best information details of every parts
Super Tutorial .
Try to get all materials here in Germany and have to modify the basplate drilling for my Virpil CM 2 Throttle and my WarBRD Base.
But a big thank you to you and this awesome tutorial..
Cheers
Humbug
the fact you have custom machined plates and are using a rusted pair of needle nose pliers to tighten down nuts is blowing my mind.
Def a matter of shame - I was already using this piece and took it apart for the video. Couldn't find my wrench while reassembling!
That is very nice. I am almost jealous of how small the base on your stick is, I use the X-56 stick (along with the throttle) and the base is so huge! Also can't believe it never occurred to me to use those sort of clamps, I use them at work all the time. I was going to use some modified G clamp, which would have been a nightmare.
Yes! That's exactly why I moved away from the x-56 stick - the big old base kept bumping my armrest, and it's impossible to use it as a center stick. Those clamps are pretty expensive - I tried some much cheaper alternatives but these do work best.
Thanks very much for this video! I know it is not recent but it has really helped my thinking about table mounts. I have a couple of observations.
Looking more closely at the Monstertech gear, it appears they use 4080 profile rather than the 3060 you use. Looking at different clamps on the Bessel catalogue, I think that you must be using the smaller clamp STC-IHH15. This would fit the 30mm slot spacing on the 3060 profile. The bigger clamp you provide a link for (STC-IHH25) would only work with 4080 profile.
Excellent comment
Mate You just saved me soooo much money! I really didn't want to buy the FOXX ones etc. Far too expensive. Instead I will build these within next month. Maybe I'll make a video for my YT channel too. Definitely will tag you in the video! Once again Thanks!
Hi, did you end up making an instructional video yourself??! I'd love to see it if so!
Like that clip - really looking forward doing it myself!
Thanks a lot and keep up the good work
Thank you this was very helpful!
Very nice, thanks for sharing
Well done.
Nice work. What was the approximate cost for the machining work? I am trying to determine if it is worth spending $56.00 to buy the Virpil mount for my WarBird base. Or have something made, as you did here.
Really, really depends. It was 10-20 bucks, depending on complexity of the base plate. However, I'm in Asia. Even if Singapore ( where I am) is relatively more expensive than most of Asia, it's still cheaper than Europe/North America.
Dude, this is some quality stuff!
Thanks for the video man!
do you know where I can find the plate drawing for the VPC warbrd and VPC MongoosT-50CM3 Throttle?
Great video. So now I'm wondering what the difference in cost is compared to getting a pair of the Monstertech mounts. It's almost exactly the same parts.
Link to a sheet with costs is in the description :)
This is significantly cheaper to build in Asia (where I am), because the materials and plate cutting costs are very low.
Bottom line is that Monster-tech only makes sense if you're in the EU. Their shipping costs outside the EU are insane. They don't seem to understand the volume of orders they're missing out on if they negotiate better shipping terms, or even set up a production unit in Asia to serve markets outside the EU.
Very nice.
Awesome video! thanks man! One question, what does the "3060" actually mean with the Aluminium profiles? All my local stores only have 4080 or other lower numbers.
Basically means a 30mm x 60 mm profile. 4080 is 40mmx80mm. You can use that too, and get the appropriate bits, but you'd actually be better off going down to 2040, instead of going up to 4080. I think Foxxmounts uses 2040, and it seems to work okay - I doubt any person is strong enough to really flex any of these profiles! Any flex will likely come from your baseplate, as long as your clamp is tight.
Hi
Would a 20 x 40 profile work for the mount?
Could not fine 40 x 80 where I am
Did you find the 5mm plate was strong enough? No flexing in the joystick bracket?
5mm works - I tried 3mm on the joystick plate and that flexed a fair bit. 5mm is totally rigid. I still use 3 mm plate on my throttle though - the slight vertical flex is actually quite nice for the throttle. But I use an X56 throttle which is pretty light. Would use 5mm for the Mongoos or any metal throttle.
Hey this is awesome thank you!
Hello from Singapore! Haha super happy that I found your video just when I was researching on how to build my own desk mount! I have a question though - what material did you use for your custom plates to mount your stick and throttle? I was looking at FMB's website and they list a whole bunch of different types of aluminium..
Good question! Honestly, I just asked them to provide me with steel plates, instead of aluminium. I only used aluminium 3060 profiles. Point is, for those plates you want the material to be as stiff as possible. The profiles' complex structure keeps them stiff. But for plates - steel has about 3x of aluminium's Young's modulus. You'll have less play in your setup that way (and it's not like weight matters a whole lot, unless your desk is flimsy).
@@thelungilife6057 Ohh ok. Alright I’ll try to look them up and see if they can come up with something for me. You wouldn’t happen to have plate drawings for a Virpil Warbrd base and Virpil CM2 throttle would you..
@@Jiterator ah, no,.unfortunately. should be easy enough to find dimensions on their website though!
@@thelungilife6057 Heh no worries. I'm sure I can find something in the forums. Thanks for all the help!
@@Jiterator how did you go with these base plates? I'm about to purchase 2x warbrd base with constellation alphas and i want to give this build a go! I was thinking about tracing the base plates and then transferring into illustrator
If you search on Ebay you can get a clamp like this for less then $10 including shipping (in germany). Search for "Schubstangenspanner".
Question, why use such a short extrusion at the bottom? Why not use one that is long enough to even support the whole JS base? You wouldn't need a 5mm thick aluminum plate to have a stable platform.
Vielen Dank! Das ist gut fur Europa, aber der Versand nach Asien kostet 60 Euro. Sorry for the out of practice Deutsche ;)
@@neerajsoman Das ist sehr schade!
PS: Dein Deutsch ist super!
great video! any chance you can do one for the X56 base plate for the throttle?
Thanks so much! 3:30 it looks like the item on the left is slightly slanted or diagonal or something - it's jutting out towards the front. Is this not a problem?
Left intentionally a bit loose at this point, as you'll need to adjust the height of your stick once you mount the baseplate anyway. It's just on there at this point for ease of assembly.
@@neerajsoman Thankyou! And one more question, is there any reason I couldn't use a square baseplate of wood?
@@bennuwa wood works as well - I used 8mm model airplane plywood in my initial build. Model airplane plywood has thinner and more layers for the same thickness as carpentry plywood, and is stronger but more expensive. Though, that's the absolute minimum thickness of plywood that works without flexing, and I'm not sure how long it would last.
@@neerajsoman Thanks! I have another question, what size have you made the holes on the baseplates, for the four corners of the thruster/joystick? Your diagram says '7' but that seems way too large. How big are the holes on the devices themselves and surely any size would work so long as a screw/bolt can fit through the hole on the devices? Please let me know. Thanks
@@bennuwa those are 5mm, which I believe also works for Virpil sticks. The 7 is the countersink size - it's showing up weirdly cause I used cheap drawing software, heh.
I'm totally new to this whole DIY. What do you use to cut the metal for making the base plate?
I sent my drawings to a local fabrication yard - they cut the base plates. I mean, if you have a CNC or acetylene torch, go for it. But I'd trust a pro, and they won't charge you much.
@@neerajsoman Thanks for the info!
I don't see where you use the adjustable swivel feet in your video.
Legend
Hey, thanks so much for showing all the details on this design and making a video on how to assemble it! Gonna try it but was wondering if you went to a machining place in-person or ordered online. If you ordered online, how did you communicate with them to ask for things like tapping m8 threads into the top of the 3060?
Hey! So, I got the 3060 from a cabinet maker - they drilled in the M8 threads for me. All comms over email.
For the plates, I drew them out in smartdraw (See the files in the description), and emailed them to the machinist/metal shop. It took one or two back-and-forths to explain - esp drilling countersinks.
I wanted something like this...but NONE of these items can be found in any of my local hardware stores (Canada).....so having to scrounnge around and take time to find hardware and buy materials online, I just kept it simple and got a pre-made one.....er, two.
I have the exact same clamp but your protective cap is different. How would i buy that? Link please, sir!
Ah, I'm afraid you're on your own for that. I found the orange/red caps to be a bit slippery. I got industrial shelf legs with matching M8 insertion screws, from a local shelf/cabinet shop.
@@neerajsoman oh I got it mate, thank you :D
what is the thickness did you use on the base plate?
250 mm and 50 mm is width or bothe profiles ? what is the lenght of profile 250 and 50 ?
The lengths are really up to you, as your desk and chair dimensions will determine how low and how far down you want your stick/throttle. The vertical is very adjustable, so that's less important than the horizontal piece length. Mine are 250mm vertical, 50mm horizontal. .
Great video and you certainly got a like and sub from me! QQ, how can I go about designing a cnc file for the VPC throttle and Warbrd base for the machinist? Also, since I'm in the US, I want to use 1020 or 1530 so the top plate would need to be redesigned too. Any input? TIA!
Hi Lungi Life, awesome project! may i know what software are you using to create the custom plate drawings?
Smartdraw - it's a cloud based SaaS thing.
@@thelungilife6057 Thanks a lot!
Kinda hard to find some of the stuff. Like the Bessey Clamp. That Black head on it looks nice, but the ones I've found don't have that.
Perhaps provide the exact URL links to some of these items not from the FMB?
Unfortunately, that's going to be hard as I live in Singapore. If you're outside Asia, you're going to have to do your own research I'm afraid. Though if you're in Asia, best to get on Alibaba and put out a request for proposal, and you'll be flooded with options. If not, best to go to your nearest metal fabrication yard (like FMB in Singapore) - window fabricators will have all of this stuff. They may even give you these pieces practically for free as they'll be scrap cutoffs too small to use. Metal yard will also have a variety of rubber feet - the thread diameter is standardized.
@@neerajsoman Yeah. In Asia, but not SE Asia. Was hoping the links would at least point to the same thing as presented in the video (i.e. Bessey Clamp). Other Aluminum/metal parts, gonna have to research locally to see what's out there.
The THREADING on the inner pieces may be a challenge to find a place to do it.
Bessey clamp.can be found on Amazon at the link below. If you are able to source the aluminium profile, it's highly likely the shop or fabricating yard would help you with the thread tapping too. I just asked the machinist there.
www.amazon.sg/dp/B0057PUFMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_eac9FbH17AS3D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@neerajsoman Yeah, I can find the Bessey, but the HEAD PART (Black) that he has on his in this video actually looks like it'd be a lot more secure. I dunno if that was some custom fitting he did.
Plus, considering hard to get 75mm of Profile, I guess I'd go with 100mm for the future adjustability and stableness of the mount.
I haven't been able to find any good source of Aluminum profile in Japan, and what's on Amazon is extremely overkill in price.
Could get it from Aliexpress, but up to 60 days to deliver....
Dunno where there's a shop that could do the threading inside the profile as well.
There's 3060A and 3060B series. I'm not sure the difference and if that impacts the rest of the parts on his list that interacts with it.
If you're in Japan, then it may actually be easier for me to ship you the profiles and plates as a kit. It's just shipping to EU/NA that's problematic. Cost of labour in Japan is going to be super high, consequently, plate cutting and profile cutting will cost a lot, locally.
Hm that Bessey (STC IHH25) appears to have the hole width 33-48mm, yet here it fits a 30mm gap on the extrusion? Yours is definitely not STC 15?
It's why I'm also using longer T-bolts. It's not a perfect fit, and they're slightly canted outwards. Doesn't really affect the purchase; not wobbly.
@@neerajsoman Makes sense! Again thanks for your project. I'll try to find 4080 compatibility and see how it goes.
Which hardware store sells extruded aluminum? Can’t find it on Lowe’s or HD
I live in Asia, so stuff is generally easier/cheaper to source. But Home Depot's window section, or better, any small window/doorframe/prefab house manufacturer locally would work. They'll likely have tons of aluminium extrusion scraps lying around that they'll sell cheaply.
Thank you for the super quick reply. I saw the doc files after I asked and saw you were in Singapore.
Thanks again for the quick reply. This is definitely what I want to build, don’t want to pay $300 for monstertech mounts.... just too much imho
Yeah, I can afford it but the price of "convenience" is far too high for Monster-tech / foxxmounts, when you consider how easy this build is. Not to mention missing out on enjoying something you've built yourself.
Does anybody has custom plate drawings for the virpil warBRD Base and the virpil moongoose T- 50CM2 Throttle. hard to find detailed drawings...
They do not have them on their own webpage or forum as a part of their documentation? I think I saw them there when I was interested in their stuff.
If not so, go to the DCS forum and ask there - quite a lot of cockpit builders and jet-jockeys, so most likely at least somebody knows
40$ for just the clamp... You could buy an entire prebuilt one for 60$?
If you can find me someone who sells and ships foxxmounts or Monstertech to Asia for less than $400 for 2 mounts, let me know.
@@thelungilife6057 @The Lungi Life g'day mate. Great video, don't mind this hater. Ive read through all of your comments and I've finally managed to find some alternatives to bits and pieces you mentioned.
One question I did have is about the larger rubber clamp end you have (the black one on the Bessey clamp). Seems like having a larger foot print like you have would contribute to making the whole thing nice and sturdy like yours.
Again, awesome build it's pretty much identical to any pre-built stuff for a fraction of the price. I'm in Australia and they'll cost me $100 to make each which is still 200-300 cheaper than the monsters or Foxx.
@@Darkhorse77777 thanks buddy - best is to head to a shelving maker, and get those feet. The tiny orange Bessey clamp feet are not great. The big rubber ones are super cheap - I believe they were 8 Singapore dollars each. They're just industrial shelf unit feet.
I ordered another, somewhat cheaper clamp, before seeing your video. What sort of drawbacks did the other options have before you settled for the Bessey (which is not available here)?
Largely the adjustability and flexibility. Basically, the bessey clamp isn't quite as fussy as others. Others will require you to endlessly fine-tune the gap. Also, whichever clamp you get, try to get as wide a clamp "foot" as possible - you'll end up with less pressure on your furniture and get a more stable hold.
@@neerajsoman Thanks, that makes sense. I wonder if a clamp "foot" can be customized/attached. And if that affects stability. Will see when it arrives.
@@Spelljammer1 absolutely - this isn't the original bessey clamp foot in the video. That works fine too, but I had a couple of spares from an old shelving unit. Just find one that fits the thread, and it screws in.
@@neerajsoman It looks like I'll have to go for a 4080 extrusion to accommodate my clamp (scared that they gave me a '41mm hole width measurement!). Too bad that means I can't recycle your mounting plate diagrams. :)
you should just make kits where we assemble them, id easily pay 70-80 for something like that, call it E-Z mount lmao
it could have been a cool video had he not used such exotic, overly expensive and pretty hard to find and/or source custom machined parts.. Surely this can be done way simpler and way cheaper without losing any of the functionality or build quality.. missed opportunity
A machined base plate is not different than a hand made base plate. You just use a different set of tools to get the profile cut to your preferred shape. You can cut it with a coping saw if you want, the end shape is going to be as good as you can make it with hand tools. If you live in any city, you can quite easily find a place to machine a simple base plate for cheap. I mean he paid $8 for the cutting, so not exactly "exotic"
Looks like you took apart a Monstertech mount and put it back together on video without even mentioning it.
Then you missed the part where I bought all those components for 1/8th the cost of MonsterTech locally, and drew the plates/got them cut, too. Read video descriptions, it'll save you some embarrassment.
@@neerajsoman Well, that doesn't change the fact that this is a clear ripoff of an existing design and that you didn't even have the guts to at least mention where you get it from in this video. This would have make it completely acceptable then. If someone should be embarrassed, that's you who let believe all those people that you were a mechanical genius where you were just a copycat. Anyway, I appreciate the effort to find the parts and reference them.
@@guillaumegaillet4066 it's not the same design. I don't use the same internal bolt attachments, but L brackets. Literally the only part of this in common with Monster-Tech is a third party clamp not designed by monster-tech anyway, but by Bessey. But I guess embarrassed ignorant troll's gotta troll.
Would you be interested in making a kit and saling to me
Makes sense if you're in Asia/Middle East. One-time shipping of metal bits to Europe/North America gets expensive. It would work out only marginally less or about the same if you got Foxxmounts while in the US or Monstertech if in Europe, if I ship a single unit or a pair rom Singapore to those places.
Thanks for responding i bought the fox mounts last night
No need to worry about which order you tightened the nuts, you weren't even using the right tool.
@5:07 bro.... nut driver or socket set
Bolts are very close to the clamp - couldn't fit my socket wrench over the bolts unfortunately.
@@thelungilife6057 may be use a wrench??? As a mechanic it hurts to watch! :-P
Taking credit for the Monstertech HOTAS desk frame design I see.
Bolting together 2 pieces of pre-formed profile and a clamp is not "design" - or else they would have patented it. I drew out and cut my own custom bases - better than theirs, and made a video about how to do it cheaply, with parts descriptions. Definitely more effort than a shitty comment on YT.
@@thelungilife6057 nah mate, I'm actually building a whole standing frame from 4080 extrusion, cutting, drilling, and making my own mounting plates as opposed to having someone else make them. Directly coping a brand's exact design isn't rocket science, but you shouldn't pretend that you came up with it. Especially when you apparently don't have the skill to use a tap yourself for the holes in the frame, don't know how to use loctite, and you use a set of pliers instead of a socket set or a wrench to tighten down the nuts for the clamp like a cave man... But somehow I'm expected to think you're capable of making the rest of it... Let alone those base plates which require more machining then you're even capable of considering you said your "machinist" did the threading... Maybe keep your story straight instead of acting like you did any of the actual work yourself. The inconsistencies in your story and aggressive reply are all I need to know. Clearly I hit the nail on the head to begin with since my original comment was beyond tame, but since you want to be a prick about it, I can come right back at ya chap. Have a nice day ;)
Nooooooo use a spanner not pliers, my eyes are bleeding. Seriously though, good instructions 👌
Lol, Ikr? I got a lot of shit for that on Reddit. Was being incredibly lazy.