22:30 That`s the oil separator box, it`s job is to make sure that the pcv valve only sucks oil vapors and combustion gasses from the crank case and not the oil itself and the grey part on top of it is your pcv valve.
your going to go to all the trouble of tripping the engine down and replacing gaskets and seals and maybe rings and all the head work so in the end you have a really nice engine and then go spoil it all by not replacing a worn used clutch that could last 1000 miles then you have to strip it down again to do a job that you could have done before refitting a nice rebuilt engine . JUST DOES NOT MAKE SENSE
Extra points for wearing the steel toecaps! Setting a good example to a lot of us fellow DIY repair nerds out here. A bit late now, but I would have compression tested the cylinders before you took the flywheel off (or better still, while in the car). One cause of vibration and harshness in older cars can be the engine mounts, the rubber bushes harden up over time and transmit vibration through the car body. See if you can source some new replacements. The 1.25 engine is a sweet little thing, well worth the effort!
Also it's definitely better in my opinion to have longer videos with more shown. It can be slightly frustrating when there are big time jumps with you just updating on what you've been doing. It's nice to see you actually doing the work, even if you're not talking (just background music is good).
Really like how you kept working as you were talking to the camera. So much better to follow and engage with and makes the video flow more imo. Keep up the good work really enjoy these fiesta vids!
A tip If you are happy with the timing of the engine there is a really easy way to preserve your timing and you do not have to set it up again The only tool you need is a Stanley Knife What you do is split the timing belt in half so on the longest length insert the blade and cut longways carefully along the length turn the engine and do the same until you have cut all round the timing belt and now the front half will come off You now get your new belt and slide it on half way ensuring you don’t skip any teeth when it’s half on pushed tight up against the the old one you can now cut across the old one to remove it now just push your timing belt fully on to your pulleys. On some engines that can be done in situ but when you have it out on an engine stand you will see how easy it is
@Savage Garage at 22:45 the piece that you took off is called a pcv oil separator, it has a pcv valve(white plastic one on top) that should be changed every 60.000 km
It's always good to see a strip down of an engine, and it's a good reference if any one else decides to try this for themselves and/or forget how things go back together! Wonder how many people was on the edge of their seat wondering if you was going to spill your brew as well :D Thanks for the content.
Fantastic video mate! Thank you. I have a Fiesta and I'm working on it and I've been trying find examples of people tearing down the engines so I can learn. This was a fantastic perspective to watch from 👌
32:08 that wheel is ACTUALLY for when you get bolts that are almost loose and the tension of the ratcheting mechanism is just making them jiggle back and forth but not come out. So you just get your finger in there and spin them out completely. At that point I usually just take the ratchet off and spin the socket by hand.
22:42 I have a VERY strong feeling that is like a SIDE mounted PCV valve (they're usually on the vslve cover) and the box is a sludge filter. They're finding the direct injection petrol engines ESPECIALLY the GM 3.6 litre are sucking a lot of oil in thru the PCV. So your box is like a filter as in like a muffler: a few twists and turns for the blowby fumes so oil doesn't get to the PCV valve. If you hadn't have shaken it at the end and I hadn't heard the distinctive noise they make when shaken, I wouldn't have picked up on it. I had a big propane FRONT fire (inlet manifold backfire) in my Australian built big 4.0 inline 6 snd cracked the PCV. It was a dying coil pack firing at the wrong time and the pressure coming back up from the manifold must have killed it. First model where they used a completely plastic one. Mechanic picked up on it as he went to pull it out to change the coil packs.
Loving this series James. Since you've taken the time to remove the engine I think a full-on restoration is in order :D Plus the longer unedited videos are spot on.
Full engine restore is the only right thing to do! I would give the Block a black satin or even metallic black finish! Keep up the good work you´re doin!
Personally I would take loads of photos when taking engine wiring off etc. It helps with the routing of it and knowing what plugs go where as it is not always obvious. Liking the strip down so far. Look forward to the next instalment. Missing the Mondeo though.
when removing crankshaft pully bolts put some heat on them with a blowtorch/heatgun for a couple of minutes as they are nearly always threadlock/loctited , this will soften the threadlock and make removal a lot easier.
Might as well do the total rebuild seeing as you got it out of the car and nice and easy in your nice warm dry shed👍 Oh, the engine colour would look nice as a Ford Blue I reckon.
cool vid James, i will be doing this with the St engine over the winter and will be putting a new clutch and parts all back on. I plan to get to some shows next year
To me the best idea would be to rebuild the engine, depends what it needs once its stripped down if it needs it then all bearings and such replaced too, if not a light restoration would be the best mainly cleaning all the carbon out honing the block and replacing piston rings and clean the valves and new stem seals. Full rebuild will cost a lot of money and unless you keep the car for years until it becomes a desirable classic it might not be worth much after all the work put into it. Always love your content so anything you produce would be top class as always!
The plastic box on the side of the engine is the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) casing, it will have a PCV valve in the top, this should be connected to the inlet manifold. ST150 MK6 Fiesta have a common issue of the valve failing, pipe splitting or box becoming sludged up with oil. This may also be an issue you may have had with your Zetec S as it can cause rev hunting issues and inconsistent idle speeds. I hope this helps, keep up the good work!
"cough" throttle bodies! "cough"....£££ I wouldn't personally touch the bottom end side if its not a smoker or oil burner leave it be! just make the head nice.... if keeping it standard ish you could do a nice exhaust manifold back, some fast road cams, air filter and a remap, port and polish the head. lighted flywheel. ! just some ideas. **just watched to end** make sure you lock the flywheel if you want to counter hold the crank, if you use the little crank index pin to hold it you will bend it. the pin is for timing up only! just letting you know mate! good video. silver for block IMO
I have a Clarke 240volt impact gun, it's brilliant for crank pulleys. Also no need to worry about timing up the pulleys on those zetecs. If I remember rightly the timing is solely done with the cam pins and crank pin, the cam pulleys are floating and just spin freely so checking the belt is easy you can lock the top and bottom of the engine and spin the cam belts as long as the bolts are not up tight, they lock themselves on when tightened using a taper...
Hi James did a camshaft belt on my Zetec S engine and had to buy a flywheel lock tool which bolts to the crank case where the starter motor fits which engages with ring gear hope this helps ps change cranshaft pulley looks like rubber damper is perished!!
@james the timing pin doesn’t hold the crank so you will need to get Someone to hold the crank some how or get a bigger power tool! The bottom pulley isn’t on a key way so you will need to time the engine before you remove the bolt. I only live a few meters away if you want to use my dewalt power tool to undo it. Paint it red! Good luck on the rebuild.
Great video, fantastic content. For me the less editing the the better. Really interesting to see the strip down and rebuild warts and all imo. Looking forward to watching the project from start to finish
Hi James much prefer a longer vid than just job done, I follow mustie1 on RUclips and hes great so much detail which is great viewing keep up the good work 👌
The crank locking pin is for timing purposes only you will snap it if you try to slacken the bottom pulley with it instead jam the crank with the flywheel bolts or refit the flywheel and jam it on the ring gear with a bell housing bolt.
If you try to remove the crank bolt with the locking tool in place with a power bar I'd imagine it will snap the locking tool or bend it. The locking tool is only used for timing and not to hold the crank when loosening the bolt. These engines have a floating crack pulley (no woodruff key) which is why the bolt is so tight. Also when putting the bolt back in it needs to go FT with a touch thread locker. No sure if you already know this but hope it helps.
Great video. Give it the full rebuild, you may as well. Longer videos full of information and the nitty gritty and product recommendations . Your turning into a modern day edd China , hopefully he watches your videos with eagerness just as we do .
Cool project! I would've moved the engine into the shed in the opposite direction but good job anyways :) That sensor between the spark plug is the head temperature sensor
Love this concept! Really enjoy it. 100% full rebuild when you have it torn apart like that already makes sense. Don´t go too crazy with the colour :) Good luck
Full rebuild would be fantastic. Raw videos are the way to go, colour wise I'd go silver with hints of red. Keep up the cracking work fella ur doing great..
Hi James, awesome video,I don't mind these you working on your car,this engine is now small with most of the parts off it, As I like the originality of cars I have it painted silver,bring on the next video of this👍
A full engine rebuild would be nice, but time will tell. That’s what can make this series interesting, looking and deciding, or even putting to a vote. If your going to change timing belt, I’d fit new tension roller. But first (very amateur) thoughts for me, needs a really good clean, and Id check the hoses closely, thought I saw a split?
Recognised that engine stand straight away. I just got 2 ton engine lift from Switzer for £148. Just used it to replace the engine in my mk3 mondeo. Pretty decent bit of kit for the price.
The savage garage James loved the video once again you are be coming a dab hand at moving heavy items far play James. Nice to have the engine in your shed as you said nice and warm and rain free. James i would do a complete rebuild would be intresting to see 👍that cup of tea looked good by the way 😁 carnt bet a cupa good one James
Awesome video James! Looking forward for this series! As you have the engine on the stand and it is the shed, might aswell do a full rebuild. I always like gunmetal gray or a dark gray on a engine, combined with some shiny black parts. Keep it up!
I’ve enjoyed the change with more raw editing James, looking forward to see the outcome in this new serie and I would go with red painting the engine 👍👍👍👍
just bought an mx5 mk2 for potential restoration and weekend toy, would love to see you do something similar to a 5 on the channel, keep up the good work james
Definitely a rebuild, may I suggest why dont you try and go for abit more power from that engine not to crazy but tastefully modified. Also about what paint colour if it was me I'd go for red and gloss black on the plastic covers. Concerning the editing, I think this was great I like both I think on the engine rebuild dont edit so much out and when your doing the other work carry on as you were just my opinion, keep up the great work iv been watching a couple of years now!
Full engine rebuild and a white block accessories with gloss black covers or white with a fully smoothed out engine bay and relocate the battery to the boot
If you havent already done it, i really dont reccomend using a bar against the crank locking pin as it's only a tiny little thing that goes into a 10mm bolt hole at the back of the engine and chances are it will snap and you'll have to fish it out of the sump👍great content btw mate
Great video bud I was fascinated. I have a question regarding the engine stand. When you attached the interface plate for mounting on the stand with the 4 bolts did they go in pretty far to seem secure? I'd be paranoid of them breaking away from the engine as it's only cast isn't it? Seems to ask a lot of those 4 holes with that amount of weight and torque.
I learned to put the bolts back where they came from when I was 16 doing a apprenticeship as a fitter / turner and that was 43 years ago ,so nothing new there
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Full rebuild would be great, it will help me with my fiesta toooo!
22:30 That`s the oil separator box, it`s job is to make sure that the pcv valve only sucks oil vapors and combustion gasses from the crank case and not the oil itself and the grey part on top of it is your pcv valve.
Thank you for that comment. I was here to look for the location of the pcv valve 👍
full engine rebuild definitely
if your taking it to bits may as well rebuild it :P
What size is it?
@@Adamwarren27 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Adam Warren yes sorry the comment was not meant to be in reply to you!
1.6L ford zetec
your going to go to all the trouble of tripping the engine down and replacing gaskets and seals and maybe rings and all the head work so in the end you have a really nice engine and then go spoil it all by not replacing a worn used clutch that could last 1000 miles then you have to strip it down again to do a job that you could have done before refitting a nice rebuilt engine . JUST DOES NOT MAKE SENSE
Extra points for wearing the steel toecaps! Setting a good example to a lot of us fellow DIY repair nerds out here. A bit late now, but I would have compression tested the cylinders before you took the flywheel off (or better still, while in the car). One cause of vibration and harshness in older cars can be the engine mounts, the rubber bushes harden up over time and transmit vibration through the car body. See if you can source some new replacements. The 1.25 engine is a sweet little thing, well worth the effort!
Definitely go for the full engine rebuild - would make for excellent content!
Also it's definitely better in my opinion to have longer videos with more shown. It can be slightly frustrating when there are big time jumps with you just updating on what you've been doing. It's nice to see you actually doing the work, even if you're not talking (just background music is good).
@@jsl4228 agree
I think you should do a full video cleaning it the block up "degrease" then paint it silver and get new bolts!
One thing offends me....that tea...looks weak as man 😆....other than that...another great video sir!
Indeed that caught my eye. Would you like some Tea with your Milk sir ?.
@@dj_paultuk7052 thought I was the only one. Man needs to be sent some Yorkshire tea and double bag it in the cup! Brute power 😆
You are right haha you could read a newspaper through that cup of tea
@cosworth 81 no excuses
@@MrMoz0887 you want to try them tetley extra strong, great first thing in a morning.
How many times has that teabag been used?😂Great channel keep it up 👍😎
Really like how you kept working as you were talking to the camera. So much better to follow and engage with and makes the video flow more imo. Keep up the good work really enjoy these fiesta vids!
I love the raw footage. Its more enjoyable. Not a lot car mechanics do it like this
A tip If you are happy with the timing of the engine there is a really easy way to preserve your timing and you do not have to set it up again
The only tool you need is a Stanley Knife What you do is split the timing belt in half so on the longest length insert the blade and cut longways carefully along the length turn the engine and do the same until you have cut all round the timing belt and now the front half will come off
You now get your new belt and slide it on half way ensuring you don’t skip any teeth when it’s half on pushed tight up against the the old one you can now cut across the old one to remove it now just push your timing belt fully on to your pulleys. On some engines that can be done in situ but when you have it out on an engine stand you will see how easy it is
Full rebuild! For sure
@Savage Garage at 22:45 the piece that you took off is called a pcv oil separator, it has a pcv valve(white plastic one on top) that should be changed every 60.000 km
It's always good to see a strip down of an engine, and it's a good reference if any one else decides to try this for themselves and/or forget how things go back together! Wonder how many people was on the edge of their seat wondering if you was going to spill your brew as well :D
Thanks for the content.
While the head is off what about porting and polishing it?
lovin the relaxed approach ,im traditionalist so i would keep the colours as they are
I'm sitting at the table munching on a corn on the cob for me dinner and watching James dismantle an engine block. Great stuff..
Fantastic video mate! Thank you. I have a Fiesta and I'm working on it and I've been trying find examples of people tearing down the engines so I can learn. This was a fantastic perspective to watch from 👌
32:08 that wheel is ACTUALLY for when you get bolts that are almost loose and the tension of the ratcheting mechanism is just making them jiggle back and forth but not come out. So you just get your finger in there and spin them out completely. At that point I usually just take the ratchet off and spin the socket by hand.
Hope to see you back on YT again soon, your videos were great to watch and chill out to
22:42 I have a VERY strong feeling that is like a SIDE mounted PCV valve (they're usually on the vslve cover) and the box is a sludge filter. They're finding the direct injection petrol engines ESPECIALLY the GM 3.6 litre are sucking a lot of oil in thru the PCV. So your box is like a filter as in like a muffler: a few twists and turns for the blowby fumes so oil doesn't get to the PCV valve. If you hadn't have shaken it at the end and I hadn't heard the distinctive noise they make when shaken, I wouldn't have picked up on it. I had a big propane FRONT fire (inlet manifold backfire) in my Australian built big 4.0 inline 6 snd cracked the PCV. It was a dying coil pack firing at the wrong time and the pressure coming back up from the manifold must have killed it. First model where they used a completely plastic one. Mechanic picked up on it as he went to pull it out to change the coil packs.
Loving this series James. Since you've taken the time to remove the engine I think a full-on restoration is in order :D Plus the longer unedited videos are spot on.
Like the longer, in depth videos James! I wanna see all the juicy bits!
Full rebuild pal good content
Full engine restore is the only right thing to do!
I would give the Block a black satin or even metallic black finish!
Keep up the good work you´re doin!
Personally I would take loads of photos when taking engine wiring off etc. It helps with the routing of it and knowing what plugs go where as it is not always obvious. Liking the strip down so far. Look forward to the next instalment. Missing the Mondeo though.
when removing crankshaft pully bolts put some heat on them with a blowtorch/heatgun for a couple of minutes as they are nearly always threadlock/loctited , this will soften the threadlock and make removal a lot easier.
Might as well do the total rebuild seeing as you got it out of the car and nice and easy in your nice warm dry shed👍
Oh, the engine colour would look nice as a Ford Blue I reckon.
Go for it James lets see a complete engine build
I love it when jammer shows us his tool !!!!!!
Think Your other engine stand is at your dads, I believe I saw it on one of your trike videos in the back.
i did wonder if i leant it to him
Brilliant video .. your commentary whilst dismantling is spot on
Can’t wait for the next instalment
You’re come on leaps and bounds mate
Hi James this time when you clean up the bores on the engine. Make sure you use oil on the oil stones which cut the surface on bores.👌
soounds like fun times ahead, watching that tea slosh around came so close to spilling it
cool vid James, i will be doing this with the St engine over the winter and will be putting a new clutch and parts all back on. I plan to get to some shows next year
Lovely Jubbly, very thorough so far.
To me the best idea would be to rebuild the engine, depends what it needs once its stripped down if it needs it then all bearings and such replaced too, if not a light restoration would be the best mainly cleaning all the carbon out honing the block and replacing piston rings and clean the valves and new stem seals. Full rebuild will cost a lot of money and unless you keep the car for years until it becomes a desirable classic it might not be worth much after all the work put into it. Always love your content so anything you produce would be top class as always!
Loving this new editing I feel like I'm watching wheeler dealer haha
Love the Fiesta, the more content the better.
Liking the longer raw videos, much more content keep up the good work!
The plastic box on the side of the engine is the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) casing, it will have a PCV valve in the top, this should be connected to the inlet manifold. ST150 MK6 Fiesta have a common issue of the valve failing, pipe splitting or box becoming sludged up with oil. This may also be an issue you may have had with your Zetec S as it can cause rev hunting issues and inconsistent idle speeds. I hope this helps, keep up the good work!
"cough" throttle bodies! "cough"....£££ I wouldn't personally touch the bottom end side if its not a smoker or oil burner leave it be! just make the head nice....
if keeping it standard ish you could do a nice exhaust manifold back, some fast road cams, air filter and a remap, port and polish the head. lighted flywheel. ! just some ideas.
**just watched to end** make sure you lock the flywheel if you want to counter hold the crank, if you use the little crank index pin to hold it you will bend it. the pin is for timing up only! just letting you know mate! good video. silver for block IMO
YES BOYYY!
Keep your thing m8 !
Maybe keep the clean silver block (:
I have a Clarke 240volt impact gun, it's brilliant for crank pulleys. Also no need to worry about timing up the pulleys on those zetecs. If I remember rightly the timing is solely done with the cam pins and crank pin, the cam pulleys are floating and just spin freely so checking the belt is easy you can lock the top and bottom of the engine and spin the cam belts as long as the bolts are not up tight, they lock themselves on when tightened using a taper...
Great vid as always, James. My vote would be to keep the bids as raw as possible. It's ace being able to see every little bit!
How important is to have the right tools...!!! Nice job! Looking forward
Hi James did a camshaft belt on my Zetec S engine and had to buy a flywheel lock tool which bolts to the crank case where the starter motor fits which engages with ring gear hope this helps ps change cranshaft pulley looks like rubber damper is perished!!
Love this style, and the longer videos that come with it!!!!! Please keep it up!
Brilliant stuff. I like the real time strip down...warts & all approach.
Tool tips are appreciated too.
You’ll definitely be glad your doing the engine work under cover when the weather really turns.
@james the timing pin doesn’t hold the crank so you will need to get Someone to hold the crank some how or get a bigger power tool! The bottom pulley isn’t on a key way so you will need to time the engine before you remove the bolt. I only live a few meters away if you want to use my dewalt power tool to undo it. Paint it red! Good luck on the rebuild.
Great video, fantastic content. For me the less editing the the better. Really interesting to see the strip down and rebuild warts and all imo. Looking forward to watching the project from start to finish
Nice to watch, and YES, you should do a full rebuild, if money permits. You'll regret it if you don't.
Full rebuild please James, piston rings and all :) Should make an excellent mini-series, plus it's a great nifty engine
Quality video ...... love all your vids but this longer, more detailed format is far and away the best. Can’t wait for next instalment 👍🏼⭐️
Hi James much prefer a longer vid than just job done, I follow mustie1 on RUclips and hes great so much detail which is great viewing keep up the good work 👌
The crank locking pin is for timing purposes only you will snap it if you try to slacken the bottom pulley with it instead jam the crank with the flywheel bolts or refit the flywheel and jam it on the ring gear with a bell housing bolt.
If you try to remove the crank bolt with the locking tool in place with a power bar I'd imagine it will snap the locking tool or bend it. The locking tool is only used for timing and not to hold the crank when loosening the bolt. These engines have a floating crack pulley (no woodruff key) which is why the bolt is so tight. Also when putting the bolt back in it needs to go FT with a touch thread locker. No sure if you already know this but hope it helps.
Full engine rebuild definitely mate
Great video. Give it the full rebuild, you may as well. Longer videos full of information and the nitty gritty and product recommendations . Your turning into a modern day edd China , hopefully he watches your videos with eagerness just as we do .
A whole Rebuild would be great and I relly like the new style 🔥 keep it up James 👍
Cool project! I would've moved the engine into the shed in the opposite direction but good job anyways :) That sensor between the spark plug is the head temperature sensor
As soon as you release the crank pulley bolt the cam timing will be lost. The crank and cam pulleys are free wheeling.
Love this concept! Really enjoy it. 100% full rebuild when you have it torn apart like that already makes sense. Don´t go too crazy with the colour :) Good luck
Full rebuild would be fantastic. Raw videos are the way to go, colour wise I'd go silver with hints of red. Keep up the cracking work fella ur doing great..
Hi James, awesome video,I don't mind these you working on your car,this engine is now small with most of the parts off it, As I like the originality of cars I have it painted silver,bring on the next video of this👍
A full engine rebuild would be nice, but time will tell. That’s what can make this series interesting, looking and deciding, or even putting to a vote. If your going to change timing belt, I’d fit new tension roller. But first (very amateur) thoughts for me, needs a really good clean, and Id check the hoses closely, thought I saw a split?
I am massively excited! I have the 1.4 zetec s engine and this is certainly going to be educational!
Great episode and full rebuild with some must need mods and upgrades
Recognised that engine stand straight away. I just got 2 ton engine lift from Switzer for £148. Just used it to replace the engine in my mk3 mondeo. Pretty decent bit of kit for the price.
Finally a fiesta video 😁!
The savage garage James loved the video once again you are be coming a dab hand at moving heavy items far play James. Nice to have the engine in your shed as you said nice and warm and rain free. James i would do a complete rebuild would be intresting to see 👍that cup of tea looked good by the way 😁 carnt bet a cupa good one James
Awesome video James! Looking forward for this series! As you have the engine on the stand and it is the shed, might aswell do a full rebuild. I always like gunmetal gray or a dark gray on a engine, combined with some shiny black parts. Keep it up!
Finally back to the fezzer
Forged pistons and rods and turbocharge it! I had a mk5 ZS and always wanted to boost it... please do it!!
I’ve enjoyed the change with more raw editing James, looking forward to see the outcome in this new serie and I would go with red painting the engine 👍👍👍👍
Food zip bags are useful for putting you nuts bolts screws washers in and you can write on the bag where they came out of
Good work full rebuild 😀
How do you remove the dip stick tube? Does it just twist and pull and the reverse for installation? BTW excellent channel ,very good.
Really enjoyed this one mate keep it going this way and a full rebuild and Silver great video mate 👍👏👏👏
just bought an mx5 mk2 for potential restoration and weekend toy, would love to see you do something similar to a 5 on the channel, keep up the good work james
Try using your other Impact on the crank pulley Bolt - that corded Clarke one you’ve got. I’ve got the that Impact, and it should take that Bolt off.
Definitely a rebuild, may I suggest why dont you try and go for abit more power from that engine not to crazy but tastefully modified. Also about what paint colour if it was me I'd go for red and gloss black on the plastic covers. Concerning the editing, I think this was great I like both I think on the engine rebuild dont edit so much out and when your doing the other work carry on as you were just my opinion, keep up the great work iv been watching a couple of years now!
Full engine rebuild and a white block accessories with gloss black covers or white with a fully smoothed out engine bay and relocate the battery to the boot
Shocking cup of tea! 😲
Personally I'd say paint the block silver or black, loving the content, keep up the good work!
yes I love it when you do these videos
To hold the crankshaft you can use one exhaust bolt.
Nice fiesta project! I have the exact same car! Keep the video's coming they are great!
If you havent already done it, i really dont reccomend using a bar against the crank locking pin as it's only a tiny little thing that goes into a 10mm bolt hole at the back of the engine and chances are it will snap and you'll have to fish it out of the sump👍great content btw mate
Love this video as always James! You inspire me!
If you’ve got it out just do a full rebuild rings bearings everything put a new clutch in as well so you have a solid engine
Great video James.....was looking forward to this .....silver all the way i think for painting engine...
Great video bud I was fascinated. I have a question regarding the engine stand. When you attached the interface plate for mounting on the stand with the 4 bolts did they go in pretty far to seem secure? I'd be paranoid of them breaking away from the engine as it's only cast isn't it? Seems to ask a lot of those 4 holes with that amount of weight and torque.
Love the way this was produced and I’d go silver or black
I learned to put the bolts back where they came from when I was 16 doing a apprenticeship as a fitter / turner and that was 43 years ago ,so nothing new there
Nice job lifting the stand and engine the shed. That's harder than it looks lol!
Tnx boss for this video im busy striping zetec motor first time your video help alot much appreciated