Manual Glow Plug Conversion and Fixing Old Car Wiring Gremlins - Volvo 740 TurboDiesel Wagon
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- In this episode, I convert the wagon's electronic glow plug control to a manual switch, fix many chewed up 40-year-old wires, make the headlights slightly better, do a diet wire tuck and get most of the car's electrics working.
Wiring Diagram Green Book:
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Music - Music: Beethoven's Symphony no. 3 in E-flat Major Eroica op. 55 from the European Archive, used under public domain.
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Wiring turned out beautifully man, looks a lot better all cleaned up. You have much more patience than I would have. Hopefully the car will no longer be a fire hazard.
Spin alternator with drill, charge drill battery with alternator, free energy.
best tutorials on these great cars on the internet please keep them coming
An effective harness rebuilding solution that I like is to take butt crimp connectors, and take a nail set and drive the center sleeve out of the plastic body - then use the center sleeves to join wires by crimping and then soldering. Heat shrink can be applied over them after crimping and soldering. The sleeves are a similar concept to crimped sleeves that the power utilities often use.
Sounds like it works well, I just don't like the metal they use in those, it seems to be super cheap zinc plated mild steel.
@@bakedbeansgarage116 The ones I've used are plated copper.
you are doing a great job mr Beans
Fine work Mr Beans, I've been working on my recently acquired '93 940 D24TIC and your videos are fantastic accompaniment to reference material. Just finished a side/marker light connector fix and faulty oil pressure switch, may tackle the glow plug relay too.
You produce some of the best, bullshit free, and straightforward vehicle content, keep it up!
bruh the minecraft reference got me laughing out loud
Love your Series
I’ll look tomorrow through my work computer to see if the diagrams that I have access too may suit your likings a little more
sound redstone logic
love these vidoes so educational, love the indept commentary, sry for bad english :)
I would recommend you to get a electric fan from a 940/960 the one that sits on the engine side of the radiator, to replace the viscous fan. Although that fan is a 2 speed you can just hook it up to the same connection as the old fan but you can only choose 1 of the speeds.
Oh absolutely. I always do auxiliary fans on my projects, but I will likely use two slim fans with a standalone controller.
the old Volvo wagon in the back is intriguing
The build series is already underway!
Is it a 245 or a 145?
@@tlagekim '83 245
Great content! Love that you use some of the same phrases as VGG 👌🏼
I get a mix of VGG and AvE - both masters at their craft, and BBG obvs doubly so!
I am flattered, haha. Those two guys have certainly had a big influence on how I talk.
If you want to control a relay with a transistor it is a good idea to put a diode in reverse over the relaycoil (to mute any flyback voltage from the coil).
Man its always great to watch your videos, inspiring stuff man you're an absolute knowledge pit
wow, most electrical stuff is just swoosh way over my head, but with you i kinda understand how things work. to me electricity is magic and witchcraft. but you tell things so even dumbest ones can understand. thanx :D great work and great channel :)
35:40 JustMy2Cents: If you are using Halogen/ Sealed beams? The voltage drop with just about ANY Stock wiring is abysmal at the Bulbs. Try it yourself with taps at the connector for Halogen lamps.
I used a voltage regulated power supply to push the output at 14.5 volts, and I was shocked at just how much more light I got.
The closest you can get to that is a custom harness with a Relay right at the Bulbs/Sealed beams using 8 AWG Full copper wire (Not CCA) coming from the Alternator positive stud with a dedicated ground also routed right to the Alternator housing. (or close as possible)
Its OVERKILL, but it's the ONLY way I found that would get me even remotely close to the 13.5 volts at the Low & High Beams of the sealed lamps.
The only other trick is to tap the A/C direct from the Alternator, but I would only use that for High beams. But since getting HID / LED's that are stupid bright anyways, with the fact you are not worried about blinding anyone; Who cares?
Sealed beams really have got a bad rap over the years, but it's not that they are not made well.
Its that they never get the proper rated voltage the Sealed beams are rated for.
This took about 6 months of trial and error working with aftermarket " _FOG LAMPS_ " wondering why my Flashlights worked better.
The CHEESY wiring was just pure and utter CRAPOLA!
So I made some Custom Harness from Junkyard Fuse blocks like you featured, with relays right at the Bulbs with the Small Omicron relays.
Despite my BEST efforts? The best I could ever get to the bulbs is about 12.9 volts measured at the base of the bulb connectors with my my H3- 130W Bulbs using factory ground points.
What I found was interesting is that if you indeed give these bulbs a legitimate 14.5 volts like they are rated, they will burn out within a few months or less.
Using a DC to DC boost converter for my backup lights that were the 130 watt halogens I could legitimately say that there was a point of diminishing returns where if you did indeed turn up the voltage to stay at a constant 14.8 volts, you would get more brightness but it was almost indiscernible.
If you're driving a Volvo and you have a self regulated alternator, then you're kind of out of luck.
but if you are able to control the field on the alternator and boost your voltage coming from your alternator to about 15 volts, then this would be the easiest way to maintain around 14.5 ~ 14.8 volts in your system to give you the best possible performance for your lighting needs.
The best way to do this while sticking with your OEM alternator is by directly tapping the output from the alternator and using an external regulator to go ahead and boost the voltage solely to be used at your lighting system. It's robust it's safe and it's not all that hard to do.
It's an absolute PITA to go this far , but if you want the most out of your lighting and you have quite a bit of it on your vehicle ( say for example halogen fog lights - halogen high beams - halogen low beams) then this really is the ticket if you want to at least work with your OEM wiring harness/ Circuit.
At the end of the day? Just get some Semi Truck 4x6 Sealed Beams that use LED's and they work great with NONE of the FUSS.
They Meet OEM and are factory installed for many brands of Trucks and they work great.
They are not too expensive, and they last and can be picked up at ANY truck stop all across the United States.
You can pick them up at Truck Junk yards as well for almost nothing if that is an option for you.
I think that about covers it.
Love your content by the way!
Thanks for the recommendation! I'll have to try this on my 245. Awhile back I did a similar mod on my truck, using the original headlight feed to trigger a relay run straight from the alternator. It certainly helped.
Just depends on how motivated I am haha.
Thanks for the support!
Coming along real nice!!!
v cool guy, subbed
AYYO ITS MR BEANS
hey if you still have the hand crank i’ll gladly buy it off of you and pay for shipping. i have a 92 940 with a broken motor for my sunroof and would love the hand crank.
Cuando estimas terminar de reconstruir el Volvo? Lo quiero ver terminado
Hopefully within the next few months. I want to see it too!
When is the next video out?
Life keeps getting in the way, hopefully within the month!
You don’t need to replace the sunroof wen you switch to electric// Sweden
Yeah, I know the mechanism itself is identical, but the one in the car is extremely broken in several ways, haha. I just happened to find a complete one in a junkyard.
The glass ones from the 960 and S/V90 also fit if you’re trying to really luxuriate.
@@jaywiggin1139 You mean "luxurificate" surely :D
Does that new turbine fit in the original d24 turbo housings?
Supposedly... The description says it's a match for my specific part number.
ITS TIME TO MAKE THE SPAGET