I was going to buy one of these basses, I found one for a good price in a nearby city. Then I saw this video. Initially, I called off the sale - then decided to go through with it for the challenge. The Bass came with a few sharp fret ends, but that's an easy fix. There's lots of travel left in the truss rod adjustment, so that's good. As far as Intonating the B string? - Just like Milko's it was off. You could definitely hear it playing octaves on the B string above the 20th. That the whole point of these single cut basses - to have a fully functional playing area up there. Rather than drilling a new hole and tapping thread into it as Milko did (I don't have the tools nor skill) - I took the advice from the guy on the Thomann site - and extended the slot in the saddle with a needle file about 8MM. It now Intonates perfectly. It took about 10 minutes of filing - I used a needle file set from Amazon ($10). I used some of the flatter needle files to finish off the slot so the screw and washer fit The intonation is now perfect.
Thank you so much I was watching all the vids then I took a break and came back and heard you talk about this problem. You just saved me 1,100 that I was going to order one tomorrow morning. Read all the reviews. I will checkout the Ibanez. Thanks again.
Those kind of flaws are inexcusable. The sharp frets on the first one, and the B string bridge not being able to be adjusted for intonation on both versions. Don't keep it. Take it back and get a refund. Find a different brand. Or consider the multi scale version of that model, the A5 plus SCMS. That is the version I was checking out videos on. But if they have fretwork or truss rod problems also, they may not be worth it. I really appreciate this Milko Lippe review. It is much more important for people to really get down to the nitty gritty of the quality or flaws, rather than just hyping everything and saying how great it is. Thank you for the detail of your analysis.
You are probably right. I should have left this brand out of principle reasons. However there is no alternative in this price range that sounds better after the mod I did. The guitar works good now but i had to modify the bridge my self
Stumbled upon this video some 2 years ago. I'm using a Cort A5 Custom Z, purchased new in 2008. Didn't pay too much attention to the intonation of the B-string, it was just a hair off and I didn't play that high on the B anyway. But, after watching this video I fiddled a bit more on the bridge to get the intonation spot-on, but I couldn't get it 100% right. Long story short, the adjustment screw could be tightened fully and there was still about 5 mm of travel on the the particular saddle that couldn't be used. Luckily I had some small bolts, nuts and shims lying around. Put a nut around the adjusment screw and hey presto, now I could fully use the travel distance for the saddle. Now it was possible to intonate the B-string 100% right. Playing chords high on the fretboard now sound clean. My personal opinion is that the bridge and/or saddle needs to be mounted a bit further away from the neck. For example, the Yamaha BB435 has an offset bridge position for the B-string. =================================== Op z'n Hollands: met aangedraaide stelschroef kon je het zadeltje van de B-snaar nog verder naar achteren duwen, maar deze werd dan door een veer weer teruggeduwd. Dus een klein moertje onder de kop van de stelschroef gezet zodat deze verder naar achteren stond. Het zadeltje kan nu volledig naar achteren worden ingesteld, precies wat de B-snaar nodig heeft.
I solved this issue with 2 similar basses of mine with the nut. You see, when most mass produced basses are made, they leave a high string action in the nut, i think because its easier to lower than to raise it. But it messes with the intonation. So, a luthier can cut deeper into the nut, and its amazing what it did to the intonation. My bridge was maxed out and after that it went almost half-way foward.
Yes.. if high on the nut that is a great solution. However mine was pretty low on the nut already. And if you cut too deep and it starts rattling you need to replace the whole nut.
I have one for about a year now. Maybe the later model is produced better. The only discernable problem is the B string intonation, however, it's not very bad. The higher frets read sharp, but never leave the note pitch completely. I will try to adjust intonation in a few days and we'll see if it's accomplishable. The sound of this Bass is the main attraction. It makes more sounds than I can use right now, playing it is a joy. I was in the middle of a song and adjusted a tone, sounded amazing. I still don't like the looks, but the TONE is tremendous. The best Bass I've ever played.
My bass came friday Man i cannot express the feeling It's such a great beautiful bass, it did not have sharp frets, the last fret was just a little high but I think it's because of the weather changes until it came here. My B string is just a tiny sharp after the 12th fret, not as much as yours is tho, maybe they fixed it a little If I was really sad about it, i could file that small slot a bit, it would take 2 3 minutes.. It sounds really bright people,it sounds wow.. The Woods are bang on quality fretboard, top, back, everything looks so perfect. My trussrod is okay, actually working, when it came the neck was a bit bowed, again it came 1000km and it's winter. Now i am thinking of trying more to fix the last fret so i can put the action low low, even tho my action is usually medium on my basses because I tend to pull harder on the strings live. The neck is perfect, a bit thicker for my taste but I have an obsession with really slim necks. In conclusion, it's a great bass guys, he was really unlucky with the first one he got, it doesn't mean it is bad. Try it yourself too if you can Im actually thinking of keeping it despite it's price
Well. Im happy to hear that yours is ok. I wasnt only unlucky with the first one.. i made the review becourse the second and third one i held in my hand had the same intonation problems.. maybe they changed the string size??
Thanks for the honest review Milko! Planning to buy this guitar next year. I hope the ones they produce that time would be of better quality as pthers in the comment have said.
I hope so too. However the intonation issue would most likely still exist. I have heared other players complain about their older A5 wich have the same bridge and problems.. Just modify the bridge and you are done.. If you are handy you can most likely do that..
Thanks for the review. Cort make very good basses, thats clear. BUT. I own a B5 (bought 10+ years ago) and have a similar issue when tuning B string. Told a luthier, and well, same story as yours.
Thanks for the review. I decided to buy this same model, despite the issues you had. It was on sale for a great price, and I was just going to modify the bridge to intonate the b string if I had to. Much to my surprise it was perfect at the 12th fret and only a tiny bit out at the 24th. Maybe Cort have finally fixed this issue.
Its not easy. I dont want to take it apart again.. but its simple if you are technical.. take the whole bridge off. Drill a hole to cut an m4 hole further back.. about 8 mm from the original m4 hole.. then you lock the saddle in that hole..
@@milkolippe7473 ok, maybe you do a Video where you can explain it by showing the finished work. So we can see how it's done. You don't have to take it apart again. If we see the finished work this would help a lot of other people. Thx in advance. Greetings from Austria! Flo 🤗
Hi. Thank you for sharing your unsuccessful experience in acquiring the Cort A5 Plus SC. I really like this model. I wanted to buy it. I stopped at the cheaper A4 Plus FMMH. She was available. Besides, I'm a beginner bass guitarist. And I decided to purchase the 5-string model later. When I have some experience. Your adventures have caused me extreme regret and disappointment in relation to the company Cort. Having many years of experience in the production of instruments of various brands, having equipment and professional staff, it is a big mistake to allow a low-quality bass to get to the buyer. Despite the fact that the model is a successful copy of the boutique brand Fodera. And it costs not the smallest money. I'm an engineer too. And I can say for sure, the bridge design is successful. It allows you to individually adjust the saddle under each string in height and length of the beaker in a fairly wide range. A five-layer through neck is also used on other models. So the design and technology have been worked out. And in my opinion they are extremely successful. By massively producing this part of the guitar, you can supplement it with two parts of the body and widely vary the shape, material of the models to satisfy the most diverse tastes and requests of musicians. Most likely, the bridge was installed carelessly. At the enterprise, this could be detected and eliminated. As well as other disadvantages. Surprisingly, manufacturers consider it possible to transfer low-quality tools to dealers and buyers. At the same time, they do not seem ready to receive payment with fake bills, checks or fake wire transfers. In order not to eliminate the shortcomings of the means of payment in the future. Good luck.
Haha.. Wow.. you have quite a interesting reaction. I think as long it looks good at first glance 60% of buyers will not even notice these problems. Besides 90% of people's ears isnt trained to detect minor pitch problems. However my ears and scull detectt minor intonation problems and it feels like my skull will break. hahahaha. So thats why i went to investigate and found the whole bass completely out of intonation. Like I wrote i fixed it by extending the adjustment possibility by adding an extra hole with m4 to be able to adjust further back. Now it is completely intonated. I share your opinion. Its a petty that a big brand gives out a bass that can not be intonated well. but once the problem is solved the instrument sounds great..
My Cort A5 Plus had the bridge problem on the high C/G String... I used a drill press and carefully gave about 2mm more space for the little screw to move. The risk was worth it. Hope you all enjoy these amazing sounding, sexy looking instruments.
Remove the spring at the B string saddle. Then slide that saddle all the way back. If still sharp on tuner. Then try a different B string. I had this problem with an Ibanez 6 string bass decades ago. And that's what I did. It worked.
A short update. Guess what.. Now with very dry winter air the wood shrunk so much that the frets are sticking out again. They stick out so much that they even cracking the binding. i guess the wood simply is too young. Never had this problem on my Fenders, or any other cheaper guitar like richwood. So Cort apparently did a crappy job again.
Im sorry to hear about your problems, i own the multiscale version but have none of those problems. My guess would be a problem in quality control at the factory, i would have returned the bass right away.
So does the 12th fret intonate properly on the B string. Anything to me above the 12th fret on a B string is mud unless you’re spending top dollar. I could live with it up to the 12th fret. I just ordered one now. I’m almost thinking about canceling my order. I wish I had seen this sooner. By the way, excellent video. Also what about the weight. No one talks about the weight. Did I mention I’m getting older? 😂👍✌️
@@milkolippe7473 I talked to the salesman where I ordered the bass. They said they would check the intonation on the B string & make sure the neck adjust properly before sending it out. They also said that if I don’t like it that I could ship it back & they would pay for it. We’ll see! Basses do fluctuate in weight but they this bass weighs between 8 & 9 lbs. Thanks for getting back to me. I own an Ibanez 805SC but I’m not happy with the balance. The strap bottom sits between the 13 &14 fret which leads to some neck dive. The Cort is between what looks like the 12th to 13th fret. We’ll see! Thanks!
@@leedodson3136 In most cases Intonating this bass is simply impossible without modifications of the bridge. I needed to drill and tap an extra hole for the saddle adjustment 8mm further back. Only now in max setting(8mm more back than original longest setting) full intonation is possible.
@@milkolippe7473 Yeah, I saw your video & hear you loud & clear. I’m just telling you what they told me. I’ll let you know once I receive it. Also I originally wanted the A5 Ultra Ash which has the same bridge 34” scale. Not sure about the measurements though. You should do more videos if and when you have time. Truly a different perspective.
Frets - it's usual issue for "asiat" instruments. The B string - use any tw string (elixir 130 tw or etc.) with a open cord, they are a bit more "intonational" right.
It would be interesting to know if the multi-scale version of this bass has the intonation issue. Maybe it doesn't. I'm very glad to hear that Milko has since solved the intonation issue with some skilled screwdriver work. Great video, thanks.
@@milkolippe7473 I haven't bought this bass yet. I'm still thinking about it. It seems all the issues you had are resolvable, so that would not stop me from getting one. It's mainly the tone that I'm considering. I'm liking melodic bass on the high notes, but I also want to be able to do more normal rock bass. I'd probably go for the SCMS version, and wonder why everyone doesn't go multi-scale.
@@Technoriety well. To start I am not experienced with fanned fretts plus i have also no problem with normal frett positioning.. most monstrous bassplayers play normal fretted basses so if fanned frets were the way to go why don't all the big names use them? The frett spacing of the fanned version is smaller making it less ideal for slapping on only one string. 16 vs 18 mm spacing makes a big difference in that. Then the bass is very specific and maybe less wanted. Im pretty sure any A5 will produce great sounding tone and growl with the bartolinis. The mk 1 is really a good pickup. Only reason to change to mk5 would be that the latter gives a fraction more punch and growl. The tone is amazing of any A5 but the single cut versions simply have an insane sustain. Making soundscapes is easy with a bass like this.. the only downside would be the intonation problem wich aparently quite a few of these basses have. So solve that yourself and you are done. One of the best for the money after a few hours of work
@@milkolippe7473 Thankyou for your reply. I didn't know there is a difference in string spacing between the straight fretted and multiscale versions. I will take that into account in my decision. Don't make another video just for me, but if you do make a video about your fix, can I suggest including some music or sounds of the bass? Even though there are other videos with example sounds, I can't get enough of them! Thanks again for your information. Very helpful. Maybe people in future will also find this helpful when they are searching for information to choose a new bass.
@@Technoriety if you search my name in soundcloud you will find a few tracks made on my bass. Listen to Honey Bee by Milko Lippe by Milko Lippe on #SoundCloud soundcloud.app.goo.gl/94zV This is a dirty song i made during the lockdown. On original mk1 barts
frets got sharp again. So review is outdated. The wood dried too much and now they stick out so much that the bonding is even cracking open on the neck.. real crap.
@@Technoriety the neck has a bonding strip.. its bursting where the frets stick out. Its not very obvious but i can see tye tiny crack and feel the bonding is bending outwards..
I don't know why they don't offset the bridges. B string intonation seems to be a big problem in many basses. I've been to luthier that has his bass with terribly intonated B string and he just said : "Nobody plays B string that high" and "It's normal". Something tells me that he was wrong. I've been wanting to buy a 6 string model and was wondering about the intonation too. At least it can be fixed without replacing or remounting the bridge which is bearable. At it seems to me that 6 string has somewhat slanted fixators for the saddles, which may help. How was the fretboard over the years? Did it need a fret leveling after all that time?
In the dry winters the frets stick out and are sharp. Like I commented before i took out the bridge and drilled an extra hole for the saddle 8 mm further back. Its 100% intonated now.. any instrument should be intonated 100%
Great review and as a 5 string bass player myself i would not buy this bass ....i use the low B string all the time. So for the producer : fix this problem fast cozz it is a great looking instrument
I managed to fix it myself by taking out the bridge and drilling and tapping a new hole in the bridge to make it possible to move the saddle further back.. someone here reacted as well and showed me that his A5 could be intonated when fully adjusted to max position. I was very surprized to see that and first couldnt believe it untill he posted a video of it.. aparently there are a few that just manage to intonate. In my case i had to set the saddle 8mm longer than its max normal position and thats why i had to drill an extra hole with thread to make that possible. Is you are handy it just takes about 2 hours to do it and build it up again.. there is nothing on the market that looks cooler or sounds better untill you come in the 3000 euro price range so self modifying for me was still worth it.
I bought the cort a6 the very first edition production about 20 years ago, the one with double bridge (warwick like) and I think its has the same B string high intonation problem . So about not reading all the comment below, so did the Cort responded ?
Did you play around with the string height? I had some issues with my old A5 and like you on the B string was way high above 12 fret. After I lowered the string at the saddle a little I was able to bring the saddle back enough to be able to make adjustments.
Eerlijk review, zeer verhelderend om ook eens de minpunten te horen, ze zijn anders duur genoeg en met name de intonatie zou spot on moeten zijn, ik neem aan dat je hem hebt geretourneerd? Ik stond ook op het punt om de Fanfret versie aan te schaffen maar ik wacht er nog even mee.
Ik heb de brug zelf aangepast. Een volle 8mm extra lengte op de B had ik nodig om deze te kunnen intoneren. Klanktechnisch is er niets dat zo lekker klinkt. Maar t blijft bagger dat intonatie out of the box niet mogelijk was.
Hello, I would like to know the distances between the knobs if you don't mind...because i'm planning to swap the onboard preamp. I hate the Bartolini MK1s.
You mean the MK1 preamps? Its a bit muddy sound.. But the MK 1 pickups are actually amazing. I upgraded to the bart MK5 pickups for coil splitting and more options but the best sound I had on the standard MK1's is not exceeded by the various choices that I now have. The pot positions is hard do discribe in therms of sizes and dimensions. its curved and all. i guess different distances also per knob. Sorry..
@milkolippe7473 What do you think about changing the MK1 preamp with REAL Bartolini's, like ntmb? And I also have Sire's heritage 3 preamp. I detached it from SIRE V10.
@@user-JinsBond to be honest I have no idea if the changes will be big. I never was able to test different pre-amps in the guitar itself. I do know 18 volt system should make the headroom much better.. I modified my Dean Edge Q6 fretless to work on 18 volt with the standard onboard pre-amp and the sound got much much better.. i think its worth a try to do the same with the Bartolini pre-amp but I cant find any info on the circuit board of the Barrolini pre-amp.
Exactly. The first example I had the frets stuck out ot the bottom. This one the frets stick out at the top. Quite allot but only in the winter time. They come out so far that the binding at the neck cracked in mine. The trussrod rattles in its cavity.. that I can only hear when playing certain chords but annoys the hell out of me when it happens. Electrically its not hearable but acoustically it is very hearable. I did change puckups to mk5 barts to be able to do coil splitting. It growls like an incredible monster. It is what it is.
after another three months,needed another fret level. love this bass it s just they couldn't wait for the wood to have little to no moist left I ve seen new Ibanez guitars around 1.6k€ with problems like this, it's a shame
Try tapered B string, or even contact core. I don't have any tapered strings right now to confirm, but if I remember correctly, tapered B strings saddles are positioned more towards the neck in relation to other saddles. As opposite to saddle positions of non tapered strings, which are progressively positioned towards the end of the body when properly intonated.
do you still own the bass? one question, some state, that this bass has no real passive mode, so the guitar wont work without a battery. odd way to wire the internals this way. can you please try it for me? despite the issues im on the edge of buying this bass. another thing is, the bartolini mk1s are not bartolinis but just rebranded crap, no? you exchanged the mk1 for the mk5s do you have pictures of the internals of the mk1s?
its true.. Without the battery it wont even work in passive mode.. however i have noticed the battery life is very long. just do not forget to unplug when not in use..
I assume it's normal for these basses to have a mediocre setup. They give you so much stuff on a bass for so little that it's just expected, great review!
Yeah.. like commented below.. took the bridge out. Drilled an extra hole. Threadded it.. 8mm more play solved the problem.. absolutely 100% intonated now
Thanks for the warning!!! Have you found a solution for this B string problem? I was really interested in that A5 but I do a lot of studio recordings and I don't want to spend time on retuning that string every 2 bars. How can a brand can sell an unplayable instrument? Cheers
I modified the bridge myself. I drilled a hole 8mm further back and tapped M4 to be able to move the saddle further back. It really needed the full 8 mm extra to become perfectly intonated. Meaning that the max saddle adjustment was not off by a bit but really far off. Anyhow.. i deffinately love the sound of this bass after this modification. However. After owning it for a while now the wood shrunk quite a bit and now the new one has sharp fretts again.. weirdly enought this time sticking out at the top side. It seems very young wood.. they should have used wood that works less when climate changes to winter dry times..
@@milkolippe7473 Ouuuch! Sounds like I'm not gonna spend my money on that instrument. On the top of that, I live in an area where temperatures switches from fire hell to north pole ice in no time. Many many thanks for pointing those problems out!
Yes. I took the bridge out. Drilled and tapped an other thread M4 and moved the saddle 8mm further back.. in max position it is now in tune and properly intonated.. imagine . 8 mm extra play from max to get it right.. but its awesome now
How about with mk5cbc pickups? I ordered this and thinking getting immediat pickup swap. I have a6 for long years and quality hes never been an issue. It's sad to hear that kind of problems
I love the sound of the mk5 barts in my bass. however i have now encountered old problems back in my bass. The winter was cold and dry air. The wood schrunk too much and now the frets stick out again and are sharp as hell. They stick out so much that the neck binding is cracking from it.. Its rediculous.. The Mk5 barts can be coil split and i did use the on-on-on switches to choose config of each pickup.. This gives enormous possibilities and still acceptable hum in single coil option.
@@milkolippe7473 splitcoil paralel and series are my main reason to want upgrade the picups. Otherwise it sound fenomenal to me! Mine a5 is just arrived but he have unfortunately intonation problem as yours. Not as bad as yours but still there. I will bring it to luthier to check it. I’m curious because I don’t want to send it back. Really like it! Thanks for your answer! Let me know if your problems are gone
@@EgeCoskun wait a year and keep the guitar dry. In my case the wood shrunk so much that now the frets are sticking out again and are bloody sharp. So extreme that the binding cracked open. So if you bring it to a luthier just wait to do all at once.
@@EgeCoskun i had to take out the b string saddle and drill an extra hole in the bridge main block about 8 mm from the original hole further back. M4. that solved the problem for me.
Would the intonation issue be solved using a EADGC tuning instead of BEADG ? I'm planning on getting a 5 strings with the high C tuning, so I would not care if the B string could get intonated right.
@@milkolippe7473 So, I received the cort yesterday. As expected, the intonation starts getting messed up at 12th fret for the B string and gets worse at higher notes. It's almost half a semitone toward the end off the neck. I've put a set of EADGC strings, then also as expected the intonation is not as bad on the lowest string, the E ....Brought it to the luthier today to have his opinion. He told me that even though the truss rod seems to be maxed out, it can still move a bit so intonation can still be improved. However, he also told me that the highest frets on the E string can never have perfect intonation, and it's always gonna get a bit sharper there. And even more so with a B string...Unless you get a multiscale version...
@@yass8483 it can be intonated if you take the whole bridge out and drill a new hole for the B string saddle 8 mm further back. Its M 4 thread. That's how I was able to get it perfectly intonated. im surprized you even have an almost maxed out trussrod. My first one had that too. It was totally maxed out and not flat still. Its sad to read that Cort did not solve their production problems even 2 years later.. idiotic brand.. if I were you I would just mod the bridge the way I did. Then the sadle can move 8mm further back . My bass is now 100% intonated.. on open, 12th and 24th in the middle green .
@@milkolippe7473 can you show the ending result on the bass. I’m handy and wouldn’t have any issues modifying it. Is there a screw specific to the fifth string saddle? I’m assuming you can still string through the back? Just having a hard time visualizing where the screw is that needs moving back the 8mm
I modified the bridge.. it was delivered with the string through the body. I drilled an extra hole in the bridge and tapped m4 to move the saddle further back.. its intonated now. But needed a mod.
From what factory it came from? I have the B5 for 7 years and thinking about going for the A6 Plus or a custom bass guitar (which is cost about 3/4 price more from the A6 Plus).
Hello, i just ordered this bass 2 days ago, i was wondering, how is the neck profile? Thinner, thicker, is the string spacing narrow? Couldn't find any info online about this
String spacing is 18mm. Neck is great when the fretts arent sharp. The fanned version has 16 mm string spacing. Not enough for slapping but the normal version is great for slapping
@@alexkna8808 i would say average thickness. Very nice to play. Just the problems i demonstrated in the video. I now build in bartolini mk 5 and now its the best bass i ever heared.
Very sad,... i see that the hipshot bridge is recessed into the body, so there's no way to easily move back... it will be easy otherwise, just 4 screws to drill, rhaaaaa... shame on you Cort !
cool video and you point out some interesting flaws but dude.. you had to say tone wood. your pickups are not microphones. us electric bass and electric guitarist need to get rid of this myth. the ONLY effect the materials of your guitar (other than the strings) have on your "tone" is sustain. your pickups respond to changes in the magnetic field. not to vibrations of your whole guitar. tone wood only applies to acoustic instruments because its the BODY based on and including the strings that you HEAR DIRECTLY. once you plug in your bass or electric guitar, the body, nut and bridge only help with sustaining the vibrations of your strings. I'm not trying to be disrespectful, but we all need to get rid of this myth.
The intonation thing can be fixed by cutting 5mm out of the screw. I'm not a luthier, but not too hard to figure that out. Maxed out truss rod is not good as it's double action rod and thus hard to fix. mine luckily has just tiny bit more range than needed for hex core medium set.
The intonation cant be fixed that easilly. the bridge locks the saddle in an slide and the max position of the slide isnt long enough.. So you need to redrill and tap the M4 a bit further back.. So you need to toke the whole bridge block out and do that.. Worked for me. 100% now..
Mine wasn't the same Cort and it seems that it had different bridge with same problem. Adjustment screw bottomed out and I just shortened it and spring also, but that wasn't necessary. Nothing else to prevent saddle movement.
Sure.. i fixed it by taking the whole bridge out and drilled a m4 thread about 8mm further so the back side of the bridge plate. There I fixed the saddle in the new position with the original screw and I was able to intonate it. @@prometheuskantate7111
You dont get it? Then you not listen. These basses have huge quality issues. That is what it is about. There are plenty of sound previews available. If you want to hear how the bass sounds in the mix you can listen to my song about the bees. soundcloud.com/milko-lippe/honey-bee-by-milko-lippe?ref=clipboard
Thank you for a review. Im looking at multiscale version and it's really hard to find some honest reviews without a guy playing slap for 5 minutes.
I was going to buy one of these basses, I found one for a good price in a nearby city. Then I saw this video. Initially, I called off the sale - then decided to go through with it for the challenge. The Bass came with a few sharp fret ends, but that's an easy fix. There's lots of travel left in the truss rod adjustment, so that's good. As far as Intonating the B string? - Just like Milko's it was off. You could definitely hear it playing octaves on the B string above the 20th. That the whole point of these single cut basses - to have a fully functional playing area up there. Rather than drilling a new hole and tapping thread into it as Milko did (I don't have the tools nor skill) - I took the advice from the guy on the Thomann site - and extended the slot in the saddle with a needle file about 8MM. It now Intonates perfectly. It took about 10 minutes of filing - I used a needle file set from Amazon ($10). I used some of the flatter needle files to finish off the slot so the screw and washer fit The intonation is now perfect.
Awesome.. im happy you found your way to solve the problem on yours. They are awesome basses when the problems are solved..
Can you please share the link to the advice? I don't understand which part exactly that you're filing
Thank you so much I was watching all the vids then I took a break and came back and heard you talk about this problem. You just saved me 1,100 that I was going to order one tomorrow morning. Read all the reviews. I will checkout the Ibanez. Thanks again.
Those kind of flaws are inexcusable. The sharp frets on the first one, and the B string bridge not being able to be adjusted for intonation on both versions. Don't keep it. Take it back and get a refund. Find a different brand. Or consider the multi scale version of that model, the A5 plus SCMS. That is the version I was checking out videos on. But if they have fretwork or truss rod problems also, they may not be worth it. I really appreciate this Milko Lippe review. It is much more important for people to really get down to the nitty gritty of the quality or flaws, rather than just hyping everything and saying how great it is. Thank you for the detail of your analysis.
You are probably right. I should have left this brand out of principle reasons. However there is no alternative in this price range that sounds better after the mod I did. The guitar works good now but i had to modify the bridge my self
I was thinking about buying this bass until i saw this video. Thank you so much!
If you put some work in it it is still a great sounding monster. But yeah.. for the money it should have been better
Stumbled upon this video some 2 years ago. I'm using a Cort A5 Custom Z, purchased new in 2008. Didn't pay too much attention to the intonation of the B-string, it was just a hair off and I didn't play that high on the B anyway. But, after watching this video I fiddled a bit more on the bridge to get the intonation spot-on, but I couldn't get it 100% right. Long story short, the adjustment screw could be tightened fully and there was still about 5 mm of travel on the the particular saddle that couldn't be used. Luckily I had some small bolts, nuts and shims lying around. Put a nut around the adjusment screw and hey presto, now I could fully use the travel distance for the saddle. Now it was possible to intonate the B-string 100% right. Playing chords high on the fretboard now sound clean. My personal opinion is that the bridge and/or saddle needs to be mounted a bit further away from the neck. For example, the Yamaha BB435 has an offset bridge position for the B-string.
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Op z'n Hollands: met aangedraaide stelschroef kon je het zadeltje van de B-snaar nog verder naar achteren duwen, maar deze werd dan door een veer weer teruggeduwd. Dus een klein moertje onder de kop van de stelschroef gezet zodat deze verder naar achteren stond. Het zadeltje kan nu volledig naar achteren worden ingesteld, precies wat de B-snaar nodig heeft.
I solved this issue with 2 similar basses of mine with the nut. You see, when most mass produced basses are made, they leave a high string action in the nut, i think because its easier to lower than to raise it. But it messes with the intonation. So, a luthier can cut deeper into the nut, and its amazing what it did to the intonation. My bridge was maxed out and after that it went almost half-way foward.
Yes.. if high on the nut that is a great solution. However mine was pretty low on the nut already. And if you cut too deep and it starts rattling you need to replace the whole nut.
I have one for about a year now. Maybe the later model is produced better. The only discernable problem is the B string intonation, however, it's not very bad. The higher frets read sharp, but never leave the note pitch completely. I will try to adjust intonation in a few days and we'll see if it's accomplishable. The sound of this Bass is the main attraction. It makes more sounds than I can use right now, playing it is a joy. I was in the middle of a song and adjusted a tone, sounded amazing. I still don't like the looks, but the TONE is tremendous. The best Bass I've ever played.
My bass came friday
Man i cannot express the feeling
It's such a great beautiful bass, it did not have sharp frets, the last fret was just a little high but I think it's because of the weather changes until it came here.
My B string is just a tiny sharp after the 12th fret, not as much as yours is tho, maybe they fixed it a little
If I was really sad about it, i could file that small slot a bit, it would take 2 3 minutes..
It sounds really bright people,it sounds wow.. The Woods are bang on quality fretboard, top, back, everything looks so perfect.
My trussrod is okay, actually working, when it came the neck was a bit bowed, again it came 1000km and it's winter.
Now i am thinking of trying more to fix the last fret so i can put the action low low, even tho my action is usually medium on my basses because I tend to pull harder on the strings live.
The neck is perfect, a bit thicker for my taste but I have an obsession with really slim necks.
In conclusion, it's a great bass guys, he was really unlucky with the first one he got, it doesn't mean it is bad.
Try it yourself too if you can
Im actually thinking of keeping it despite it's price
Well. Im happy to hear that yours is ok. I wasnt only unlucky with the first one.. i made the review becourse the second and third one i held in my hand had the same intonation problems.. maybe they changed the string size??
Thanks for the honest review Milko! Planning to buy this guitar next year. I hope the ones they produce that time would be of better quality as pthers in the comment have said.
I hope so too. However the intonation issue would most likely still exist. I have heared other players complain about their older A5 wich have the same bridge and problems.. Just modify the bridge and you are done.. If you are handy you can most likely do that..
Thanks for the review. Cort make very good basses, thats clear. BUT. I own a B5 (bought 10+ years ago) and have a similar issue when tuning B string. Told a luthier, and well, same story as yours.
Thanks for the review. I decided to buy this same model, despite the issues you had. It was on sale for a great price, and I was just going to modify the bridge to intonate the b string if I had to. Much to my surprise it was perfect at the 12th fret and only a tiny bit out at the 24th. Maybe Cort have finally fixed this issue.
I have no clue how many have the problem but some dont have it. But Im glad you are enjoying yours! Have fun. Its a great instrument once intonated
how much did you pay in sale?
Can you please do a follow up video , where you show how you fix the bridge...?
Its not easy. I dont want to take it apart again.. but its simple if you are technical.. take the whole bridge off. Drill a hole to cut an m4 hole further back.. about 8 mm from the original m4 hole.. then you lock the saddle in that hole..
@@milkolippe7473 ok, maybe you do a Video where you can explain it by showing the finished work. So we can see how it's done. You don't have to take it apart again. If we see the finished work this would help a lot of other people. Thx in advance. Greetings from Austria! Flo 🤗
Hi. Thank you for sharing your unsuccessful experience in acquiring the Cort A5 Plus SC. I really like this model. I wanted to buy it. I stopped at the cheaper A4 Plus FMMH. She was available. Besides, I'm a beginner bass guitarist. And I decided to purchase the 5-string model later. When I have some experience. Your adventures have caused me extreme regret and disappointment in relation to the company Cort. Having many years of experience in the production of instruments of various brands, having equipment and professional staff, it is a big mistake to allow a low-quality bass to get to the buyer. Despite the fact that the model is a successful copy of the boutique brand Fodera. And it costs not the smallest money. I'm an engineer too. And I can say for sure, the bridge design is successful. It allows you to individually adjust the saddle under each string in height and length of the beaker in a fairly wide range. A five-layer through neck is also used on other models. So the design and technology have been worked out. And in my opinion they are extremely successful. By massively producing this part of the guitar, you can supplement it with two parts of the body and widely vary the shape, material of the models to satisfy the most diverse tastes and requests of musicians. Most likely, the bridge was installed carelessly. At the enterprise, this could be detected and eliminated. As well as other disadvantages. Surprisingly, manufacturers consider it possible to transfer low-quality tools to dealers and buyers. At the same time, they do not seem ready to receive payment with fake bills, checks or fake wire transfers. In order not to eliminate the shortcomings of the means of payment in the future. Good luck.
Haha.. Wow.. you have quite a interesting reaction. I think as long it looks good at first glance 60% of buyers will not even notice these problems. Besides 90% of people's ears isnt trained to detect minor pitch problems. However my ears and scull detectt minor intonation problems and it feels like my skull will break. hahahaha. So thats why i went to investigate and found the whole bass completely out of intonation. Like I wrote i fixed it by extending the adjustment possibility by adding an extra hole with m4 to be able to adjust further back. Now it is completely intonated. I share your opinion. Its a petty that a big brand gives out a bass that can not be intonated well. but once the problem is solved the instrument sounds great..
My Cort A5 Plus had the bridge problem on the high C/G String... I used a drill press and carefully gave about 2mm more space for the little screw to move. The risk was worth it. Hope you all enjoy these amazing sounding, sexy looking instruments.
Wow.. that would mean the G setup range was too short? Thats a surprize.. normally G has a shorter scale in the setup...
@@milkolippe7473 It wasn`t able to move close enough to the neck... so - the scale was not short enough in the beginning. :D
Remove the spring at the B string saddle. Then slide that saddle all the way back. If still sharp on tuner. Then try a different B string. I had this problem with an Ibanez 6 string bass decades ago. And that's what I did. It worked.
There is no spring in a hipshot bridge..
A short update. Guess what.. Now with very dry winter air the wood shrunk so much that the frets are sticking out again. They stick out so much that they even cracking the binding. i guess the wood simply is too young. Never had this problem on my Fenders, or any other cheaper guitar like richwood. So Cort apparently did a crappy job again.
Im sorry to hear about your problems, i own the multiscale version but have none of those problems. My guess would be a problem in quality control at the factory, i would have returned the bass right away.
So does the 12th fret intonate properly on the B string. Anything to me above the 12th fret on a B string is mud unless you’re spending top dollar. I could live with it up to the 12th fret. I just ordered one now. I’m almost thinking about canceling my order. I wish I had seen this sooner. By the way, excellent video. Also what about the weight. No one talks about the weight. Did I mention I’m getting older? 😂👍✌️
I modified the bridge to be 100% even on 24th frett. But with original bridge i was far off on the 12th frett
@@milkolippe7473 I talked to the salesman where I ordered the bass. They said they would check the intonation on the B string & make sure the neck adjust properly before sending it out. They also said that if I don’t like it that I could ship it back & they would pay for it. We’ll see! Basses do fluctuate in weight but they this bass weighs between 8 & 9 lbs. Thanks for getting back to me. I own an Ibanez 805SC but I’m not happy with the balance. The strap bottom sits between the 13 &14 fret which leads to some neck dive. The Cort is between what looks like the 12th to 13th fret. We’ll see! Thanks!
@@leedodson3136 In most cases Intonating this bass is simply impossible without modifications of the bridge. I needed to drill and tap an extra hole for the saddle adjustment 8mm further back. Only now in max setting(8mm more back than original longest setting) full intonation is possible.
@@milkolippe7473 Yeah, I saw your video & hear you loud & clear. I’m just telling you what they told me. I’ll let you know once I receive it. Also I originally wanted the A5 Ultra Ash which has the same bridge 34” scale. Not sure about the measurements though. You should do more videos if and when you have time. Truly a different perspective.
@@leedodson3136 thanx man.. if I had interesting gear I would ;-)
Frets - it's usual issue for "asiat" instruments.
The B string - use any tw string (elixir 130 tw or etc.) with a open cord, they are a bit more "intonational" right.
It would be interesting to know if the multi-scale version of this bass has the intonation issue. Maybe it doesn't. I'm very glad to hear that Milko has since solved the intonation issue with some skilled screwdriver work. Great video, thanks.
Too bad that i can not reply with a picture of the result. Ill check later if i can make a short video of the result and post it.
@@milkolippe7473 I haven't bought this bass yet. I'm still thinking about it. It seems all the issues you had are resolvable, so that would not stop me from getting one. It's mainly the tone that I'm considering. I'm liking melodic bass on the high notes, but I also want to be able to do more normal rock bass. I'd probably go for the SCMS version, and wonder why everyone doesn't go multi-scale.
@@Technoriety well. To start I am not experienced with fanned fretts plus i have also no problem with normal frett positioning.. most monstrous bassplayers play normal fretted basses so if fanned frets were the way to go why don't all the big names use them? The frett spacing of the fanned version is smaller making it less ideal for slapping on only one string. 16 vs 18 mm spacing makes a big difference in that. Then the bass is very specific and maybe less wanted. Im pretty sure any A5 will produce great sounding tone and growl with the bartolinis. The mk 1 is really a good pickup. Only reason to change to mk5 would be that the latter gives a fraction more punch and growl. The tone is amazing of any A5 but the single cut versions simply have an insane sustain. Making soundscapes is easy with a bass like this.. the only downside would be the intonation problem wich aparently quite a few of these basses have. So solve that yourself and you are done. One of the best for the money after a few hours of work
@@milkolippe7473 Thankyou for your reply. I didn't know there is a difference in string spacing between the straight fretted and multiscale versions. I will take that into account in my decision. Don't make another video just for me, but if you do make a video about your fix, can I suggest including some music or sounds of the bass? Even though there are other videos with example sounds, I can't get enough of them! Thanks again for your information. Very helpful. Maybe people in future will also find this helpful when they are searching for information to choose a new bass.
@@Technoriety if you search my name in soundcloud you will find a few tracks made on my bass. Listen to Honey Bee by Milko Lippe by Milko Lippe on #SoundCloud
soundcloud.app.goo.gl/94zV
This is a dirty song i made during the lockdown. On original mk1 barts
Thanks for this honest review
frets got sharp again. So review is outdated. The wood dried too much and now they stick out so much that the bonding is even cracking open on the neck.. real crap.
It's sad to hear that bonding is coming loose. Is that bonding between the main wood of the body and the decorative wood on top?
@@Technoriety the neck has a bonding strip.. its bursting where the frets stick out. Its not very obvious but i can see tye tiny crack and feel the bonding is bending outwards..
I don't know why they don't offset the bridges. B string intonation seems to be a big problem in many basses.
I've been to luthier that has his bass with terribly intonated B string and he just said : "Nobody plays B string that high" and "It's normal". Something tells me that he was wrong.
I've been wanting to buy a 6 string model and was wondering about the intonation too. At least it can be fixed without replacing or remounting the bridge which is bearable. At it seems to me that 6 string has somewhat slanted fixators for the saddles, which may help.
How was the fretboard over the years? Did it need a fret leveling after all that time?
In the dry winters the frets stick out and are sharp. Like I commented before i took out the bridge and drilled an extra hole for the saddle 8 mm further back. Its 100% intonated now.. any instrument should be intonated 100%
Great review and as a 5 string bass player myself i would not buy this bass ....i use the low B string all the time. So for the producer : fix this problem fast cozz it is a great looking instrument
I managed to fix it myself by taking out the bridge and drilling and tapping a new hole in the bridge to make it possible to move the saddle further back.. someone here reacted as well and showed me that his A5 could be intonated when fully adjusted to max position. I was very surprized to see that and first couldnt believe it untill he posted a video of it.. aparently there are a few that just manage to intonate. In my case i had to set the saddle 8mm longer than its max normal position and thats why i had to drill an extra hole with thread to make that possible. Is you are handy it just takes about 2 hours to do it and build it up again.. there is nothing on the market that looks cooler or sounds better untill you come in the 3000 euro price range so self modifying for me was still worth it.
@@milkolippe7473 You should have made a video of your bridge repair job. That would have been interesting to watch.
@@Technoriety just check any video about tapping thread. Its just an extra hole further back. I can video the result if you want..
Great video 👍
Do you have simmilar experience?
I bought the cort a6 the very first edition production about 20 years ago, the one with double bridge (warwick like) and I think its has the same B string high intonation problem . So about not reading all the comment below, so did the Cort responded ?
Nope.. i guess they don't give a fuck. Or they just dont have the intention to build something properly..
Did you play around with the string height? I had some issues with my old A5 and like you on the B string was way high above 12 fret. After I lowered the string at the saddle a little I was able to bring the saddle back enough to be able to make adjustments.
That didnt work. It was rattling when lowered.
@@milkolippe7473 very frustrating.
I guess all these cool looking basses under 1.5k have certain issues...I have a Ibanez 5 string with some similar problems
Eerlijk review, zeer verhelderend om ook eens de minpunten te horen, ze zijn anders duur genoeg en met name de intonatie zou spot on moeten zijn, ik neem aan dat je hem hebt geretourneerd?
Ik stond ook op het punt om de Fanfret versie aan te schaffen maar ik wacht er nog even mee.
Ik heb de brug zelf aangepast. Een volle 8mm extra lengte op de B had ik nodig om deze te kunnen intoneren. Klanktechnisch is er niets dat zo lekker klinkt. Maar t blijft bagger dat intonatie out of the box niet mogelijk was.
Maybe you should try the Ibanez SRSC 805. No problems on this bass and dies look very similar to the bass by Cort.
Thanks!
hey guys, has anybody got a recent experience with this bass? Have the manufacuter improved these issues through the years?
I doubt it.. i found reviews from normal a5 cort bass about the same intonation problem. That review dated a few years back.
Just had someone reacting. Same shitty problems as my first one.. so sad this brand.. they wont learm anything..
Hello, I would like to know the distances between the knobs if you don't mind...because i'm planning to swap the onboard preamp. I hate the Bartolini MK1s.
You mean the MK1 preamps? Its a bit muddy sound.. But the MK 1 pickups are actually amazing. I upgraded to the bart MK5 pickups for coil splitting and more options but the best sound I had on the standard MK1's is not exceeded by the various choices that I now have. The pot positions is hard do discribe in therms of sizes and dimensions. its curved and all. i guess different distances also per knob. Sorry..
@milkolippe7473 What do you think about changing the MK1 preamp with REAL Bartolini's, like ntmb?
And I also have Sire's heritage 3 preamp.
I detached it from SIRE V10.
@@user-JinsBond to be honest I have no idea if the changes will be big. I never was able to test different pre-amps in the guitar itself. I do know 18 volt system should make the headroom much better.. I modified my Dean Edge Q6 fretless to work on 18 volt with the standard onboard pre-amp and the sound got much much better.. i think its worth a try to do the same with the Bartolini pre-amp but I cant find any info on the circuit board of the Barrolini pre-amp.
How is the bass after 1 year now?
My upper frets needed leveling after 7 months,nothing much besides that,fresh wood moves a lot
Exactly. The first example I had the frets stuck out ot the bottom. This one the frets stick out at the top. Quite allot but only in the winter time. They come out so far that the binding at the neck cracked in mine. The trussrod rattles in its cavity.. that I can only hear when playing certain chords but annoys the hell out of me when it happens. Electrically its not hearable but acoustically it is very hearable. I did change puckups to mk5 barts to be able to do coil splitting. It growls like an incredible monster. It is what it is.
after another three months,needed another fret level. love this bass it s just they couldn't wait for the wood to have little to no moist left
I ve seen new Ibanez guitars around 1.6k€ with problems like this, it's a shame
Try tapered B string, or even contact core. I don't have any tapered strings right now to confirm, but if I remember correctly, tapered B strings saddles are positioned more towards the neck in relation to other saddles. As opposite to saddle positions of non tapered strings, which are progressively positioned towards the end of the body when properly intonated.
do you still own the bass? one question, some state, that this bass has no real passive mode, so the guitar wont work without a battery. odd way to wire the internals this way. can you please try it for me? despite the issues im on the edge of buying this bass. another thing is, the bartolini mk1s are not bartolinis but just rebranded crap, no? you exchanged the mk1 for the mk5s do you have pictures of the internals of the mk1s?
its true.. Without the battery it wont even work in passive mode.. however i have noticed the battery life is very long. just do not forget to unplug when not in use..
I assume it's normal for these basses to have a mediocre setup. They give you so much stuff on a bass for so little that it's just expected, great review!
Did you manage to repair it ?
Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Yeah.. like commented below.. took the bridge out. Drilled an extra hole. Threadded it.. 8mm more play solved the problem.. absolutely 100% intonated now
@milkolippe7473
I think, you should make a video about the modifications. So people can solve that as well.
Greetings from Switzerland
Thanks for the warning!!! Have you found a solution for this B string problem? I was really interested in that A5 but I do a lot of studio recordings and I don't want to spend time on retuning that string every 2 bars. How can a brand can sell an unplayable instrument? Cheers
I modified the bridge myself. I drilled a hole 8mm further back and tapped M4 to be able to move the saddle further back. It really needed the full 8 mm extra to become perfectly intonated. Meaning that the max saddle adjustment was not off by a bit but really far off. Anyhow.. i deffinately love the sound of this bass after this modification. However. After owning it for a while now the wood shrunk quite a bit and now the new one has sharp fretts again.. weirdly enought this time sticking out at the top side. It seems very young wood.. they should have used wood that works less when climate changes to winter dry times..
@@milkolippe7473 Ouuuch! Sounds like I'm not gonna spend my money on that instrument. On the top of that, I live in an area where temperatures switches from fire hell to north pole ice in no time. Many many thanks for pointing those problems out!
Great video, Have you manage to solve this problem ??
Greetings from Switzerland !!
Yes. I took the bridge out. Drilled and tapped an other thread M4 and moved the saddle 8mm further back.. in max position it is now in tune and properly intonated.. imagine . 8 mm extra play from max to get it right.. but its awesome now
Did you try to put a smaller springs for the B string adjustement?...
There are no springs in this setup
Is there an intonation problem with the A5 multiscale?
No idea.. i never tried one..
How about with mk5cbc pickups? I ordered this and thinking getting immediat pickup swap. I have a6 for long years and quality hes never been an issue. It's sad to hear that kind of problems
I love the sound of the mk5 barts in my bass. however i have now encountered old problems back in my bass. The winter was cold and dry air. The wood schrunk too much and now the frets stick out again and are sharp as hell. They stick out so much that the neck binding is cracking from it.. Its rediculous..
The Mk5 barts can be coil split and i did use the on-on-on switches to choose config of each pickup.. This gives enormous possibilities and still acceptable hum in single coil option.
@@milkolippe7473 splitcoil paralel and series are my main reason to want upgrade the picups. Otherwise it sound fenomenal to me! Mine a5 is just arrived but he have unfortunately intonation problem as yours. Not as bad as yours but still there. I will bring it to luthier to check it. I’m curious because I don’t want to send it back. Really like it! Thanks for your answer! Let me know if your problems are gone
@@EgeCoskun wait a year and keep the guitar dry. In my case the wood shrunk so much that now the frets are sticking out again and are bloody sharp. So extreme that the binding cracked open. So if you bring it to a luthier just wait to do all at once.
@@EgeCoskun i had to take out the b string saddle and drill an extra hole in the bridge main block about 8 mm from the original hole further back. M4. that solved the problem for me.
How can I solve the 5 string intonation problem of this bass? I want to buy this bass..!
Take out the bridge and make an extra M4 hole further back for the saddle. Read my comments about the details
@@milkolippe7473 thank you!
Would the intonation issue be solved using a EADGC tuning instead of BEADG ? I'm planning on getting a 5 strings with the high C tuning, so I would not care if the B string could get intonated right.
No clue.. I never tried that
@@milkolippe7473 So, I received the cort yesterday. As expected, the intonation starts getting messed up at 12th fret for the B string and gets worse at higher notes. It's almost half a semitone toward the end off the neck. I've put a set of EADGC strings, then also as expected the intonation is not as bad on the lowest string, the E ....Brought it to the luthier today to have his opinion. He told me that even though the truss rod seems to be maxed out, it can still move a bit so intonation can still be improved. However, he also told me that the highest frets on the E string can never have perfect intonation, and it's always gonna get a bit sharper there. And even more so with a B string...Unless you get a multiscale version...
@@yass8483 it can be intonated if you take the whole bridge out and drill a new hole for the B string saddle 8 mm further back. Its M 4 thread. That's how I was able to get it perfectly intonated. im surprized you even have an almost maxed out trussrod. My first one had that too. It was totally maxed out and not flat still. Its sad to read that Cort did not solve their production problems even 2 years later.. idiotic brand.. if I were you I would just mod the bridge the way I did. Then the sadle can move 8mm further back . My bass is now 100% intonated.. on open, 12th and 24th in the middle green .
@@milkolippe7473 can you show the ending result on the bass. I’m handy and wouldn’t have any issues modifying it. Is there a screw specific to the fifth string saddle? I’m assuming you can still string through the back? Just having a hard time visualizing where the screw is that needs moving back the 8mm
@@70Drec i just took the entire bridge assembly off and drilled an extra hole about 8mm further back. Drilled M4 in it and done..
Might be a little off topic but how did you intonate that hipshot bridge with the string through body? Can't find anything online that shows that
I modified the bridge.. it was delivered with the string through the body. I drilled an extra hole in the bridge and tapped m4 to move the saddle further back.. its intonated now. But needed a mod.
From what factory it came from? I have the B5 for 7 years and thinking about going for the A6 Plus or a custom bass guitar (which is cost about 3/4 price more from the A6 Plus).
Indonesian factory.
Hello, i just ordered this bass 2 days ago, i was wondering, how is the neck profile? Thinner, thicker, is the string spacing narrow? Couldn't find any info online about this
String spacing is 18mm. Neck is great when the fretts arent sharp. The fanned version has 16 mm string spacing. Not enough for slapping but the normal version is great for slapping
thank you so much.. About the neck profile , is it thin? How would you describe it from your experience?
@@alexkna8808 i would say average thickness. Very nice to play. Just the problems i demonstrated in the video. I now build in bartolini mk 5 and now its the best bass i ever heared.
Why did you order without getting that important specification data first?
@@troubleshooter5811 you couldn't find things like this, trust me
Have you change the string ?
No. I use the factory standard string.
No. I use factory strings
How much does the bass weigh?
Its 4485 grams on my coocking scale
Very sad,... i see that the hipshot bridge is recessed into the body, so there's no way to easily move back... it will be easy otherwise, just 4 screws to drill, rhaaaaa... shame on you Cort !
I modified the bridge itself to solve the problem. Drilled and tapped an extra hole for the B string saddle. Now its awesome but needed some work
@@milkolippe7473 That a great move, i'm very happy for you. ;)
cool video and you point out some interesting flaws but dude..
you had to say tone wood.
your pickups are not microphones. us electric bass and electric guitarist need to get rid of this myth.
the ONLY effect the materials of your guitar (other than the strings) have on your "tone" is sustain. your pickups respond to changes in the magnetic field. not to vibrations of your whole guitar.
tone wood only applies to acoustic instruments because its the BODY based on and including the strings that you HEAR DIRECTLY.
once you plug in your bass or electric guitar, the body, nut and bridge only help with sustaining the vibrations of your strings.
I'm not trying to be disrespectful, but we all need to get rid of this myth.
Cort QC has always been an issue IMO.
The intonation thing can be fixed by cutting 5mm out of the screw. I'm not a luthier, but not too hard to figure that out.
Maxed out truss rod is not good as it's double action rod and thus hard to fix. mine luckily has just tiny bit more range than needed for hex core medium set.
The intonation cant be fixed that easilly. the bridge locks the saddle in an slide and the max position of the slide isnt long enough.. So you need to redrill and tap the M4 a bit further back.. So you need to toke the whole bridge block out and do that.. Worked for me. 100% now..
@@milkolippe7473 i just bought this bass despite the issues, i hope i can fix the intonation issue myself. can i ask you for help?
Mine wasn't the same Cort and it seems that it had different bridge with same problem. Adjustment screw bottomed out and I just shortened it and spring also, but that wasn't necessary. Nothing else to prevent saddle movement.
Sure.. i fixed it by taking the whole bridge out and drilled a m4 thread about 8mm further so the back side of the bridge plate. There I fixed the saddle in the new position with the original screw and I was able to intonate it.
@@prometheuskantate7111
Comprate otro bajo je
Just play it. I only hear your voice but not the bass...what? I dont get it..
You dont get it? Then you not listen. These basses have huge quality issues. That is what it is about. There are plenty of sound previews available. If you want to hear how the bass sounds in the mix you can listen to my song about the bees. soundcloud.com/milko-lippe/honey-bee-by-milko-lippe?ref=clipboard